Portobelo is a port city in Central Panama. It is located on the northern part of the Isthmus of Panama.
Portobelo was founded in 1597 by Spanish explorer Francisco Velarde y Mercado. From the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries it was an important silver-exporting port in New Granada on the Spanish Main and one of the ports on the route of the Spanish treasure fleets.
The city was also victim of one of Captain Henry Morgan's notorious adventures. In 1668, Morgan led a fleet of privateers and 450 men against Portobelo, which, in spite of its good fortifications, he captured and plundered for 14 days, stripping it of nearly all its wealth. This daring endeavour, although successful, also proved particularly brutal as it involved rape, torture, and murder on a grand scale.
On November 21, 1739, the port was again attacked and captured by a British fleet, commanded this time by Admiral Edward Vernon during the War of Jenkins' Ear. The British victory created an outburst of popular acclaim throughout the British Empire, and many streets and settlements in the British Isles and the Thirteen Colonies were named Portobello such as the Portobello Road in London.
However, the town was quickly recovered by the Spanish and Admiral Vernon suffered a major defeat against the stronghold of Cartagena de Indias in 1741. Vernon was forced to return to England with a decimated fleet and over 18,000 casualties. Despite the Portobelo campaign, British efforts of gaining a foothold in the Spanish Main and disrupting the galleon trade were fruitless. Following the War of Jenkins' Ear, the Spanish switched from large fleets calling at few ports to small fleets trading at a wide variety of ports. They also began to travel around Cape Horn to trade on the West coast.
Today, Portobelo is a sleepy city with a population of fewer than 3,000. It has a deep natural harbor and is home to many cruising yachts. In 1980 the ruins of the fortification, along with nearby Fort San Lorenzo, were declared a World Heritage Site.
When Francis Drake died of dysentery in 1596 at sea, he was buried in a lead coffin near Portobelo bay. They're still looking for him. There are two dive centers operating here. It is also a place to book passages on boats to Colombia.
Visitors could drive from Panama City to Portobelo, taking the Transisthmian highway (Auto Pista) to Sabanitas and then turn right on the road that leads to Portobelo. It takes around one and a half-hour.
By bus from Panama City Albrooke terminal, take the Colon Express (45 min $2.50)and get off at the Rey supermarket in Sabanitas. there switch to the Portobelo bus (1 hr $1.30).
Buses depart Portobelo every half hour from 4:30am to 6:00pm making many stops along the way to Sabanitas (Rey Supermarket) (1hr-$1.30) enroute to Colon (Total 1.5hr-$2.00). In Sabanitas you cross the highway on the pedestrian bridge and catch the Panama City Express bus (1hr-$2.50). To guarantee a seat on the Panama bus, continue on to Colon and catch it there (1.5hr-$2.50).
By boat There are now over 30 vessels operating the route between Portobelo, San Blas, and Colombia. They vary widely in safety, comfort, and price ($299-$550) depending on the boat. A person would be ill advised to book an 180nm ocean passage on a vessel he hasn’t inspected with a captain he hasn’t met. The waters between San Blas and Colombia can be challenging at times. Don’t depend on second hand information. Vessels depart regularly from Portobelo, Puerto Lindo, and Porvenir. Make an informed decision.
Captain Jack's Portobelo Hostel is a wealth of information and hub for backpackers and sailboat cruisers alike. Because sailboat captains frequent the hostel/restaurant/bar, it is one of the best places in Panama to meet the captain of your perspective charter, inspect the boats, use internet, eat, sleep, as well as book day tours, kayaking, scuba, hiking, and snorkeling. Captain Jack's also offers laundry & transportation services. Learn more by visiting () or see the boat section on the San Blas page for more information.
Portobelo is very small and easy to navigate. There's one road which runs paralell to the water which forks just before the village square. Take the left fork for immigration and Internet cafe, and the right fork for more food places.
Taxis are cheap, and busses are even cheaper. Just stand on the main road an hail them. You can get rides to Isla grande, Puerto Lindo, or Jose Del Mar for a different experience of the carribean coast and some true home cooked cuisine. Jose Del Mar is the smallest town, but the most authentic and least touristed.
You can see the sights in Portobelo in an hour. Start at the West end fort ruin. From there head East on the left hand side of the road and you'll see a stair case up to the watch tower with great views of the bay.
On your way to the Eastern side stop off at the Church and Old Customs house.
There are several bars around Portobelo. Captain Jack's is the most lively and full of backpackers, but also the most expensive at $2 a beer ($1 during Happy Hour, 1600-1700 every day and 1400-1800 on Sunday), most others have beers from $1.
To make new friends, head to Captain Jack's, if you already have some you'll save some money by starting your own party elsewhere.
Jack, in Captain Jacks, is a wealth of local knowlege.
If you're on a boat, or have a VHF radio for some other reason, tune in to The Net on channel 72 at 9am every morning (Run by Jack) to get in touch with the other boats in the area.
Buses run from Portobelo to Colon every 20-30 minutes from 0430 until 1800. They leave from in front of the church, but you can flag them down anywhere along the main road.
Regular boats leave to Cartagenia for around $300-$500. Ask in Captain Jack's or your hostel for info.