Penjikent
From Wikitravel
Penjikent is a city in Tajikistan.
Substantially closer to Samarkand, Uzbekistan, than to Dushanbe, Penjikent is the old center of the Sogdian empire. Around the modern town and in its museum you will find remains of this pre-Islamic civilization. The remains of the Sogdian city of Penjikent are just out of town, on a hill overlooking the valley. You can wander around the site without being bothered by anyone. Unfortunately ,there are hardly any signs explaining what is what. You may find some excavators here, and students from St. Petersburg willing to tell you about their work and finds.
The town has a small museum with Soviet memorabilia and stuffed animals as well as impressive finds from the excavations nearby -- wall paintings from the 5th century, with faded colors but recognizable motifs and hunting scenes.
You can also do good treks in the surrounding Fan Mountains. Penjikent is usually visited from Samarkand through the Intourist Service Bureau, located in the Hotel Samarkand, but it is also possible to arrange the trip by yourself. You might even arrange to come here on your Uzbek visa, without an actual Tajik visa. This seems to depend a bit on the custom guards, who otherwise tend to be quite friendly. They do not see many tourists, so you are a bit of a sight yourself.
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