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Palolem
From Wikitravel
Palolem is one of the most beautiful beach in all of Goa. it is surrounded by hills on both sides, resulting in a calm, idyllic sea in which you can walk into upto 100 metres.
[edit] Get in
The easiest way to get to Palolem is to get the train/fly to Margao (locally known as Madgaon), and then pay for a Government approved fixed-price taxi to Palolem. Fixed-price taxis are available from the train station and from Dabolim airport at Vasco da Gama.
Alternatively, Canacona is Palolem's nearest train station, approximately 10 minutes drive away.
Backpackers may also take a State Transport approved Bus from Margao Bus Stand to Canacona or Palolem. It takes around 80-90 minutes. If you get down at Canacona, you can take an autorikshaw (tuktuk) to Palolem Beach which is only 5 Km. The journey by bus is comfortable. The buses are neither airconditioned nor dust proof.
[edit] Get around
Palolem is quite small, so easy to explore on foot. Mopeds and bicycles are available for hire on the main street.
Taxis and rickshaws are also readily available on the main street or though a travel agency. Day trips can be booked through agencies.
[edit][add listing] See
Cotigao wildlife sanctuary is a good day trip from palolem. you can also ride along the narrow but beautiful coastal road northwards to visit agonda beach and still further north cabo da rama(a ruined fort on a cliff)
[edit][add listing] Do
Palolem is a small beach town but do take long walks (carry a torch if walking along the beach at night!). Immediately to the south of Palolem, which gets busier every season, is the beautiful Columb Bay where you can stay in a comfortable yet eco friendly complex. Just beyond is Patnem beach which used to be much quieter than Palolem but has a few guest houses and beach shacks.
You can take a boat ride in the river joining the sea on northern side of the Palolem beach.
Very quiet and more in the 1960s than in the 21st c (thank goodness). No Jet Skis - no rip-offs or touts - very good locals who make this a unique place in India - one that the authorities could learn a lot from - more the sort of place you come to compose music on the beach.
From Palolem you can find some outdoor sport as : - scuba diving ( near Palolem Guest house ) - canyoning and trekking tour ( book at Casa Fiesta restaurant ) - rent self drive sea kayak boat
Take a boat trip to see Dolphins, best time is sunset and sunrise, great boat crew near the Church on ther right hand side.
Day trip to Dudhsagar Falls (Sea of Milk) which are in the top 100 highest falls in the world.
Cortigao Wildlife park.
Spice Farms.
Spend a day in Agonda 20km north of Palolem, very quiet beach, with some people driving overland from europe every year to stay there. Further north there is an old fort (Cap de Rama) and beautiful views as you drive over the hills.
[edit] Don't
Don't spoil it. It is unique and idyllic in a very chilled out laid back sort of way. Don't drop litter, rush around shrieking like someone from "Castaway" and don't do ANYTHING that would bring trouble on the place.
[edit] Beach
One of the most beautiful Goan beaches, although not as peaceful as it used to be (sometimes referred to as the Goan lost paradise). Palolem Beach is long beach now entirely filled with rooms and huts (150-400 Rs.) and restaurants, sometimes with live music. There's also a market for tourists. Walk the beach at night with a flashlight and you'll be amazed by crabs running away from you.
A Walk to the butterfly island... You will spot this island to your left on entering the beach... you can walk along the beach and across some rocks during low tide and reach the island. the island has a network of trails to explore. for the more adventurous you can traverse the rocks on the periphery of the island. Its just beautiful make sure you carry your water bottle.
[edit][add listing] Buy
If you are part of the consumer rat race - a shoppaholic - this is not a great place for you - but there are great crafts people on the beaches (stone carvers, instrument makers etc). Be very firm but polite if you don't want their wares - they are much more polite and civilized than sellers on other Indian beaches - let's keep it that way!
On the beach front and inland there are many wonderful little music shops, spice shops and garment shops - some of which are mini bazaars. The hippy influence over the years means that they can let you chill out and choose rather than trying to hard sell you from the second you enter the store.
[edit][add listing] Eat
Some people are under the mis-apprehension that most of the food in Palolem is quite Westernised. Actually most places serve both "international" food and Indian - so you have the choice. There are great curries and rotis/nan/chippati/rice almost everywhere and these are great and very cheap to live on. Being more sensitive to local needs and choosing local brands is more environmentally sound, means that you help the local economy more - your money doesn't just go on exports, halves the cost of your stay and give you a more Indian experience - so call for a Kingfisher, not a Fosters as so many embarrassing "westerners" do! Also remember that the chefs idea of an western dish may be slightly different than yours in some of the restaurants.
Local trade is mainly tourism and fishing - so it can be guaranteed that your fish dinner is straight from the sea. A good fish main course usually starts from 300Rs upwards.
Dropadi - Near the entrance to the beach serves a good variety of food and the service here is great with friendly waiter who are willing to go the extra mile to serve you.
Magic Italy - the best pizza in Palolem, try their Four Cheese or Spinach pizzas. Cosy, with a selection of tables or cushions on the floor.
Fernandes - just past the church on the right hand side of the beach, great indian food and tandori plus fairly cheap and fresh fish, a favourite for old regulars.
Palolem Beach Resort - Curries in Palolem tend to be quite lacklustre - but the Palolem Beach Resort does a great paneer butter masala and chana masala with garlic naan and rice. Chicken is great here too.
Cool Breeze - a jazz cafe that is quite popular with the locals, great food.
Smugglers Inn - British run bar serving old favourites like fish and chips, bangers and mash, bacon sandwiches. Go here if you want a big mug of British tea and HP brown sauce.
Sameer Restaurant - good breakfasts and their fish sizzlers are to die for. It's right on the beach, so fantastic views of the ocean.
[edit][add listing] Drink
There are many places along the beach serving alcohol and are usually your best bet if you want to mingle and meet new people. Try the Sameer Restaurant or Cafe del Mar which are supposed to be quite happening. There are two places on the main road with cable so you can watch football.
Also Cuba bar on the main road just before you take a left towards the beach plays good music, has a pool table and great atmosphere.
The days of partys in Palolem are over now but there a few things happening at night, ask people. For a different expierience try the Headphone Party at the Alpha Bar on Wed /Thur, its different!
[edit][add listing] Sleep
Outside of New Year period, basic accomodation (rooms/shacks) should cost 200-500 rupees (200 for a very basic local-style room in October). Nice rooms with TV, etc. easily can go for around Rs.1000 or even more (often depending more on owner's ambitions than on room quality). If you're looking for the better value, try next beaches to the south (Colomb, Patnem) or even Agonda 10 km to the north.
There are plenty of beach shacks along Palolem Beach, not much point in booking as many of them don't answer the phone/take bookings. Usually your best bet is just to turn up and cross your fingers. Bear in mind that a local law prohibits permanent structures on the beach, so from May to October the shacks are supposed to come down (although this does not always happen!). Shacks should be 100% free of crawling insects. At Xmas and New Year it can get very busy and room rates are high, expect to pay a minimum of R500 / 700. The right hand side of the beach tends to be quieter with the left hand side where the bars / nightlife are.
Alternatively, there are many local hotels in the area on the main road.
Palolem Guest House is a nice place to stay if you don't like the beach shack concept. Neat & clean rooms are available from Rs. 600-1200 per night. WARNING: February 2009 - this place had a major BEDBUG problem, which the management of this guesthouse appeared entirely unwilling to address.
Other places include Om Sai guest house which has AC and non-AC rooms with TV and refrigerator. It is situated just 20 meters ahead of the left turn towards the beach from the Palolem market.
Virgin Beach resort which is just opposite the Om Sai guest house is a decent place to stay with budget accommodation available.
Le-Grand residency is opposite the turn to Palolem beach. The rooms are decent however there is some noise as the buses to Margao are parked just outside the hotel (opposite end).
Luke's Residence is the posh accommodation is Palolem. Though it is almost 2kms off the beach on the road towards Patnem beach. (ahead of Cleopatra resorts).
Fernandes there are two on the right hand side (owned by brothers) and both offer good clean accomodation in some of the best beach huts on the beach.
Neptune's Point stands a bit aside of the beach (on its left side) on an rock ground. There are wooden huts with cold showers, beds, big balconies, and with marvelous views over the beach. The price - 850 INR per hut per night.
Sundowner at the north end of the beach, is a nice place to stay, if you enjoy peace and quiet. During high tide getting to the beach might be difficult but the resort's staff are very kind, and will offer you a ride by boat. Prices from 600 INR, depending on the season.
Ordo Sounsar close to Sundowner, also enjoys peace and tranquility, but has the advantage of easy access when the tide is high, having its own bamboo bridge. Friendly Goan hosts, local Goan food in the restaurant, and the beach's best G & T's at the bar.
Ciaran's is a beachfront resort in the middle of the beach with a collection of environmentally friendly coconut coir huts which surround gorgeously manicured grounds fronted by a good restaurant overlooking the water. While this is probably the most expensive place on the beach it's definitely worth the price. For the 2008/2009 season prices range between Rs. 2500 to 3900 a night, breakfast included. Both the staff (mostly Nepali) and the management are friendly and relaxed but also attentive.
Don't forget to bargain for the prices of the beach huts - the more temporary it looks, the cheaper it's supposed to be. San Fransisco is one such place where a good shack above the restaurant can be had for INR 500 a night while a shack further inside the San Fransisco enclosure is 300-400 a night. The owner is very friendly, a family man, and protective of his foreigner guests. I remember that the waiters were also nice, to both Indians and foreigners alike and respected everyone's privacy. The only nit to pick here was the full course meal, but then you can drink here and move to a place like Draupadi - near the beach's main entrance from the road - for food.
- Laughing Buddha Cottages, North end of Palolem Beach, [1]. Laughing Buddha Cottages is a beautiful guesthouse comprised of 14 huts on the North end of Palolem Beach. Each of the spacious huts is en suite with western style bathrooms and private balconies. All double beds are equipped with mosquito nets. Safety lockers are available for your valuables. edit
[edit] Get out
The local train station is Canacona - approximately 10 minutes drive from Palolem. It's very quiet with not many trains.
If you want more choice, get a taxi to Margao - where you can link up with all the main lines. If you have a little extra time and you want to save, take the local buses. Dirt cheap, respectful locals and careful drivers. For a taxi ride that would cost you 1000 Rs. upwards (depending on what the cabbie thinks he can make off of you), you could get there for 17 Rs.!!
If you are interested in exploring nearby places, like the Putnam beach about 2-3 kilometers away, rent a bicycle. Better yet, rent an Indian scooter and have fun driving, or learning to drive :)
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