Nkhata Bay

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Africa : East Africa : Malawi : Nkhata Bay
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Nkhata Bay is a small, bustling fishing village about 50 kilometers from Mzuzu. Straddling the steep, verdant mountains of Malawi's rift valley, Nkhata Bay overlooks the lake like a lord overlooks his manor.

The town is home to the Tonga people who are famed for their love of fine dressing — it's common to see older men dressed in full suits with Homburg hats, spats and canes!

[edit] Get in

You can reach Nkhata Bay from the South via the Lakeshore road or west from Mzuzu, by minibus. The winding, scenic, hour-long trip costs about $1. There are regular buses from Blantyre and Lilongwe. There is no road access to the North.

There are flights from Lilongwe to Mzuzu 3 times per week.

[edit] Get around

Nkhata Bay is fairly small and walkable. Alternatively, you can hire a water taxi to take you from one end of the village to the other; this is also a neat way to see the coastline. Most of the hostels and hotels also have vehicles and you can usually hitch a ride when they head into town for supplies.

[edit][add listing] See

The Lake is what Nkhata Bay is all about. There is only one beach at Chikale which is a gentle 20 minute walk from the town.

One of the must sees of Nkhata Bay is the feeding of the fish eagle which lives high up on the cliff face south of Njaya Lodge. Trips can be organised by any of the lodges.

If you have a vehicle at your disposal, you should visit the huge Kawalazi coffee plantation located roughly half-way between Mzuzu and Nkhata Bay (as you travel towards Nkhata Bay, there's a small sign on your right). A very friendly Sikh manages it, and he's happy to take you around and show you how the plantation runs. The countryside around the plantation is also worth exploring if you want a break from the lake.

The rubber and tea plantation at Chombe and research farms dot the land between Nkhata Bay and Mzuzu; hiring a bike is the best way to explore these.

[edit][add listing] Do

Aqua Africa, +265 (0)1 352 284, [1] is a PADI certified dive shop on the north side of the bay. They offer cheap single dives and courses up to Divemaster, a good way to experience fresh-water diving in the lake. Single dives from $20, open water course $260.

There is also dive shop at Njaya Lodge, offering day trips for around $20.

Most of the lodges can arrange other day trips to points around the lake, and rent out fins, masks, kayaks and more.

You can also organise longer 2 or three days trips either north to Usisya and Ruware, south to Kande beach or over to Likoma Island and Chisumulu Island.

The mouth-breeding cichlid fishes are fascinating and represent the most diverse vertebrate radiation in the history of the earth.

[edit][add listing] Buy

There is a "Bureau de Change" in town, but for ATM's you must head to Mzuzu.

There are also several "Rastas" posing as curio vendors. Aside from accommodation, food, and drink, these guys offer among the only options for taking your money.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Aside from the lodges, which all have restaurants, there are several independent restaurants in town, which change regularly. If you have a dollar, you can find a burger, Malawian pizza, or a great Chambo (fish) dinner.

For a particularly good local restaurant, find the large tree in the middle of the market; here you will find reasonably priced, good food to enjoy on benches beneath the branches.

[edit][add listing] Drink

There are a number of local bars in Nkhata Bay. Additionally, small tourist-friendly bars spring up regularly.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

There are several places to sleep in Nkhata Bay and representatives from these will meet the ferry when it arrives.

Njaya Lodge, [2], complete with its own guard-goose, is among the most popular, especially with backpackers, despite being about a mile or two outside town. In 1993 an English couple Paul and Claire Norrish bought some property on the Lake and built a budget lodge. Since then word of mouth has led Nkhata Bay to become popular with independent travelers. The lodge is based on sustainable tourism principles and the staff who work at the lodge have all been working their since it opened and many of them actually helped to build the lodge. Situated high atop a mountain overlooking the lake, Njaya offers a variety of accommodation -- from en suite cottages ($15/night) to spartan, reed chalets ($4/night). Camping is also available for $3/night.

Mayoka Village is another popular lodge on the bay, offering private chalets ($10-$15/night) and a dormitory ($5/night) for those on a tighter budget. Mayoka is well known in the area for its scenic location, vibrant bar and friendly atmosphere, including an outstanding weekly barbecue made from locally sourced food.

Butterfly lodge is a beautiful place to stay, offering private chalets as well as a small, but pretty bar, right on the water. The lodge also has a private beach and snorkeling equipment available.

Chikale Lodge offers en suite chalets, on the water, for about $40/night. This lodge is about 1 mile from town.

Kande Beach, [3]

There is a government rest house in town, but most travelers find municipal accommodation run down and depressing.

[edit] Contact

There is not yet internet here, so again you must head to Mzuzu.

[edit] Get out

A ferry visits Nkhata Bay twice a week — once going north and once going south.

The ferry arrives in Nkhata Bay early on Sunday morning and then heads up to Usisya, Ruaware and ultimately to Chilumba. A lovely round trip involves taking the ferry north and then return on Tuesday when the ferry heads south to Cape Maclear via Likoma Island or east to Mbamba Bay, in Tanzania. This is the beginning of the so-called Mtwara Corridor, a project which aims to develop the road infra-structure from Mbabama Bay to Mtwara on the Indian Ocean.

The ferry is a popular, albeit slow, way for travelers to see the lake and journey to other parts of the region. You can either sleep on the deck (great in nice weather) or, for those wanting a bit more luxury, try the ensuite cabin.

[edit] Stay safe

Nkhata Bay has recently earned a reputation for being dangerous. Be careful walking at night and do not carry all your cash with you, especially walking between the town and the lodges to the south.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!