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Mostar is a city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, formerly one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the country, and today suffering geographical division of ethnic groups. The city was the most heavily bombed of any Bosnian city during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina following the break up of then-Yugoslavia. At the beginning of the war, the city lost many important buildings and structures through air strikes; later, once the formerly-aligned forces turned into enemies, a thorough destruction of this old city began, including the destruction of Mostar's architectural (as well as cultural and spiritual) heart: The Old Bridge (Stari Most). Mostar has been most famous for this beautiful historic Ottoman-style bridge, which spanned the Neretva river in what is considered the historic center of the city. Through combined efforts with the international community, The Old Bridge has been rebuilt (completed in 2004, almost 11 years after its destruction), using some of its original pieces recovered from the Neretva river. A significant portion of the city has been rebuilt, but the visitor will easily notice the many remnants of Mostar's troubled recent history.

[edit] Get in

The Bus and Train stations are adjacent and are located close to the heart of Mostar.

[edit] By bus

There are buses nearly every daylight hour to and from Sarajevo, and the journey takes about two hours. There are also buses to and from Ploče on the Croatian coast.

There are several buses that leave from Dubrovnik, Croatia every day, and the journey takes about 3-4 hours (7AM bus: 32KM/€16 in January 2009 - apparently later buses are cheaper). Similarly, many buses head towards Split, with the journey taking a similar length of time.

There are two bus stations in Mostar, one next to the train station and another not too far away, also in the north part of the city, in a mostly destroyed building. Buses to Split may leave from the latter station - check beforehand.

There are numerous buses each day (including some overnight) to Zagreb, and most major towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Be careful with the bus from Podgorica. Its final destination is Banja Luka and it stops several kilometres from the city centre on an expressway, which may put you in a tricky situation in the middle of the night. The simplest solution is to order a taxi which should cost about KM10/€5. (The author made a successful attempt to order Mostar Taxi Adis, phone no. +387 61 652 149, using a mixture of freshly picked Serbo-Croat phrases and his basic skills in German).

[edit] By train

Train services are not frequent to Mostar, but the two-to-three hour trip is spectacular and it is worth travelling at these odd times due to the stunning scenery.

Trains from Sarajevo depart about twice or three times a day, one service (usually evening) continuing its journey from Zagreb on their way to Ploče on the Adriatic coast in Southern Croatia. That journey takes about 90 minutes.

Although the train to Mostar was famous for being quite empty compared to buses, this no longer seems to be the case and during peak periods travelers will be lucky to find a seat. Note however that the facilities of the train stations and the train itself are rather dated, and the bus provides a more comfortable journey. Keep in mind that the journey by train from Sarajevo to Mostar is quite spectacular, passing through rugged terrain with a series of tunnels, U-turns and aqueducts. It is also cheaper than the bus, as of October 2007.

[edit] By plane

Mostar has an International Airport [1] located on the outskirts of the city. Flights are limited, but at present there are services to Istanbul, Zagreb and (in 2008) Vienna.

[edit][add listing] See

• The Old Bridge (Stari most) is the highlight of Mostar and was built by the Ottaman Turks in 1566. It was destroyed during the recent war by Croatian HVO forces, but was rebuilt in 2004. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A museum has opened up next to the bridge (entrance 5KM / 2.5 Euro). It includes exhibits on the history of the bridge, a panoramic view from the top, and entrance into the excavations below, along with a video detailing the reconstruction of the bridge.

• Pocitelj is on the left side of the road to Dubrovnik. You may take the yellow bus to Capljina (number 41) and after some 45 minutes you are at this historical village.There are a few good Ottoman buildings dating from a few centuries ago.Pocitelj is also nice with its excellent Neretva view. Pocitelj is city with croatian inhabitants.

• Blagaj is counted within the city limits and is reachable by public buses in fifteen minutes or so. The bus may leave from the road opposite the main station, not the bus station itself. elagicevina (the Velagic family House)

In Blagaj there is complex of the Bosnian oriental houses owned by the Velagic family, the old family from Blagaj. It was built in XVII century and is a beautiful example of the Ottoman residential architecture, a one-story structure with typically extended porches . In the vicinity there are also old flourmills that were in the old days powered by the strong River Buna.All this surrounded by large flower gardens and reflected in the calm water. Within the complex there are two guesthouses that were built to accommodate unexpected travellers offering them accommodation and food. The family now owns a hotel and a family business of honey production (see below).WWW.VELAGOMED.BA In Blagaj there are good samples of Ottoman mosques, bridges and tekija which is on the right bank of the River Buna at its source.

• Muslibegovica House[2] is National Monument of Bosnia It is one one of Mostar's most precious architectural treasures constructed 300 years ago. Experts for Ottoman architecture consider Muslibegovic House as most beautiful house from Ottoman period in Balcans.National monument “Muslibegovic House” is located near the Karadoz - Bey’s Mosque, and is one of the most representative monuments of the Ottoman residential architecture. House is comprised of separate quarters for women (women’s courtyard– haremluk), and men (men’s courtyard – selamluk. Unlike earlier architectural styles, this house resembled a four-storey house built around the centre. Double-arched entrance with the central pillar reveals Mediterranean influence. The house preserved authentic monumental structure, items and documents providing an insight into the life of a wealthy bey family from the time. In addition to museum exhibition, visitors are invited to take traditional beverages or cookies, or spend a night in this authentic surrounding.

House – museum is open for visitors 15 April – 15 October from 10AM-6PM.

• History Museum of Herzegovina Open 8-16. Closed Mondays.

• Koski Mehmed Pasina Dzamija (Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque) Old town. Small but simply pretty Ottoman mosque built in 1618. Climb to the minaret to see a great view over the town. Fee 3KM, with minaret 5KM

• Karadozbegova Dzamija (Karadjoz-Bey Mosque) Old town. A modest Ottoman mosque built in 1557. Fee 3KM, with climbing to the minaret 5KM.

• Cemetary next to Karadjoz/Bey Mosque in the Old town. When Mostar was surrouded by troops and all the Muslim cemetaries unreachable in the other side of the front line in 1993, this little park was turn into a cemetary.

• Biscevica house on Biscevica Street. An Ottoman house, where you only can see the few rooms in upstairs. 4KM

[edit][add listing] Do

• Diving off the Old Bridge. During the day, the Mostar Diving Club will have members dive off the bridge into the emerald green waters. For the daredevils among us you can also dive the 21 meters into the Neretva River and receive a certificate from the Mostar Diving Club (25 Euros).

Anyone doing this should be warned that the waters of the Neretva - 'Green Goddess' River are at a constant 12 degrees centigrade and going suddenly from 30C to 12C can cause a heart attack amongst even the fittest. The young local men diving on the day I was there would hose themselves down first in order to lower their body temperature before diving.--03:57, 10 October 2009 (EDT)194.187.35.194

• Walking along the former Front-line on Bulevar Revolucije where in 1993 the city was divided between Croats on the West and Muslims on the Eastern side. It is a surreal and sobering experience to see the bombed out buildings which still stand in this area.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Both euros (should be at 1:2 rate with the Bosnian KM) and Croatian kuna (at a rip-off rate) are widely accepted in shops and restaurants in Mostar.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Pizzeria "Roma" near Mercator shopping centre (and not far from Zrinjski stadium) offers the breat pizza.

• Jami Burek, M. Balorde (Old town). Good and cheap place to have local burek  edit
• Palma, A. Santica (Just outside the Old town, close to Neretva river). A great place to have cheap and good cakes (starting 1KM), ice cream and enjoy airconditioning on a hot day  edit
• Restoran Dado, 7rg 1 Maja b.b, ☎ 036 552 043. Delicious traditional Bosnian fare at very reasonable prices Appetizers, Soups & Pottages, Fish, Pasta Meals, Salads, Daily dishes and Grills (Steak, Chicken & Salad) for two, Desserts €9 per head inc. wine for three courses.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

Many of nice lounge bars are located in the Old Town.

• OKC Abrasevic (Omladinski Kulturni Centar Abrašević), Alekse Šantića 25, [3]. Bar with alternative concerts and other art events, founded on the former front line of the last civil War. On the second story of the bar is a small book-exchange (or so it seems :)  edit

• Ali Baba's Cave. This bar has drinks and hookah; the ambiance is great as the lounge was built directly in a cavern. You won't be able to miss it while walking around the bazaar in Mostar's Old Town, as there is loud music emanating from the entrance.  edit
• Studio Lounge, M. Balorde (Old town). A cool open-air bar on top of a high building with jazzy/world music and a great view over the town. Sometimes live bands; keep your eyes open to see posters when walking in the Old town  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

VILLA MOSTAR
www.mostar-tours.com

Villa Mostari is locatedin the centre of Mostar on the Neretva River,60 meter from square Musala and 350 meters from bus and train station. Our modern and stylish apartments provide a relaxing environment from which you can explore the fascinating culture which surrounds us.

Our apartments combine elegant style with functional comfort; all have air conditioning and heating, decorated with warm colours and quality materials. We offer an oasis of tranquillity, placed between Musala Square and the city centre.

You can enjoy your breakfast and meetings in a spacious room overlooking the turquoise green Neretva River, or enjoy a walk or quiet moments in the garden which stretches to its banks.

We welcome you to the city of sun, easy rhythm and beauty, built by many different cultures over the centuries. Let us be your gate to the world which blends old and new, east and west, people and time.

• Hotel Bevanda, [4].  editThe Bevanda hotel is located at Balinovac. It's so far, Mostar's only luxurious four star hotel. It's located in a quit area with beautiful nature and a river running under hotel it self, yet it's not more than 15 minutes walk from the historical core of the city. The hotel has a capacity of 28 rooms and two luxurious apartments. All rooms have access to a mini bar, Pay TV, Internet adapter and balcony. There are both rooms for smokers and non smokers. Here you will find a big restaurant, café, and a huge terrace outside lying on the river Radobolja. Also a hotel garage as well as outside parking is available.

• Hotel Ero, [5].  editThe Ero hotel is on the right side of the "Carinski (emperor’s) bridge". This is a big hotel with 165 room and eight apartments. Rooms are equipped with Telephones, internet adapters and satellite TV. The hotel also has a huge restaurant that provides both local and international food. This hotel is also ideal for conferences. The glass hall is the biggest one with up to 100 seats, thereafter there are the blue and the white halls with up to 50 seats. All rooms are equipped with projectors and video players. Outside the hotel there is a parking lot for visitors.

• Hotel Bristol, (right side of the Musala bridge). The Bristol hotel is on the right side of the Musala bridge. The hotel offers 45 rooms, a restaurant, and two conference rooms. The rooms are equipped with new furniture, airconditioning, telephone, new bathrooms and satellite TV. The restaurant has a capacity of 150 seats inside and outside. The Musala square across Neretva and Korzo Street in front of the hotel are two of the most frequent places in the city, which gives this hotel something extra.  edit

• Oscar Pansion, (ten meters from the bridge). Rooms are very clean, with television and air-conditioning and the price is surprisingly low. The young boy and the little girl speak good English.  edit

• Pansion Mostar, (2min from bridge on major road). Rooms are friendly, quiet and spacious, equipped with TV and balcony. Bathroom spotless, owner Marijana friendly and with good English. Price excellent, paid €15 per person per night.  edit

• Majda' Rooms, Fra Franje Milicevica 39 (25 min walk from the bus station, pass the street and walk straight on Carinski Most street over the Nereiva river, take the first steet (A. Sanijca) on left, walk for about 1km, head towards the tall Catholic church and turn right to Franjevaka street, after the church takethe first street on right and then the first street on left, walk past two little bidges and the hostel in on right on the first floor of a regular apartment building ; 10 min from the Old town; head towards the tall Catholic church on the other side of Nereiva river, then see above), ☎ 061 382940, 38761 382 941. majdasofra@yahoo.com, Facebook group Majdas Rooms Mostar. An excellent and warm welcoming hostel. Leave your number before arriving Mostar, and they will come pick you up at the bus station for free. The owner, Majda, is very friendly and will bend over backwards to accommodate you, suggest restaurants, bars, sights, and day trips. Free internet, tv, kitchen, linen. No curfew. 10 euro.  edit

• Mostar Old Bridge View Villas, [6]. Three fully furnished two bedroom apartments with terraces on Neretva River directly over looking the Mostar Old Bridge.  edit

• Zdrava Hrana, [7]. Solid low-priced accommodation (single 30 KM, double 50 KM [summer 06]). Located near from the centre and clean - though not luxurious - rooms.  edit
• Motel ˝Deny˝ Mostar, Kapetanovina 1 (Old town of Mostar), ☎ ++387 36 578 317, [8]. checkin: 12:00; checkout: 11:30. Traveling trough Bosnia and Herzegovina, Herzegovina and Mostar region offers immense and rich experiences to every visitor. From the coastal to the continental parts,Herzegovinas rich cultural heritage (Mostar, Stolac, Capljina, Medugorje), combined with the magnificent natural beauties (Hutovo Blato, Kravice, Boracko jezero, Neretva), make it the perfect place to spend your vacation at motel Deny. In a centre of the Old town just 50 m from the Old bridge Motel˝Deny˝is situated. Motel consists from 10 rooms with AC, cable TV, bathroom with shower, balcony with a view on the Old town and Old bridge, restaurant closed type, parking and internet wireless connection which is free of charge for guests. Babble of a Radobolja river, pleasant personnel and beatiful view on the Old town and Old bridge will make your staying in Mostar unforgettable. This is your ideal place for rest,welcome to motel Deny.  edit

• Villa Sara, Sasarogina br. 4 (Located within a walking distance both from the rail/bus station and the old city. From the station just head to the bridge and turn left just before reaching it. Continue for like 3 mins down the street - you can't miss the sign, even at night.), ☎ +387 (0) 36 55 59 40. Nicely located, decently furnitured. The dorm is €10 per person but a good choice may be a double for €25 - if you get one at the second floor, not only will you have the quickest access to the terrace but also can enjoy the view on the city and the hills. 10 euro.  edit
• Exclusive Bed and Breakfast - Mostar, Fra. A Miletica 42 (Across the road from the famous Franjevaèke catholic church. Behind Darios Cafè), ☎ 00387 63 289 256, [9]. checkin: 11am; checkout: 10am. Exclusive Bed and Breakfast offers a warm, homely feeling with close access to the Old Bridge, an 8 minute walk. All stays come with a rich continental breakfast in the morning. There is car parking with a secure locked gate and lock-up garage. Open fire place in the living room. Washing and drying for clothes is available upon request. Feel free to email us at slezak.dragan@mocable.ba 25€. (43.33678,17.807530) edit

[edit] Get out

• A short drive from Mostar, at Blagaj, a river flows out of a mountain. It's very beautiful, with deep blue water. A historic mosque is built into the cliff (women must wear headscarves to enter the mosque). Trout are farmed in the river, and several excellent restaurants serve trout with seating on the riverbank. Many tourists visit this site. However, almost no one hikes up to the ancient fort on top of the mountain. Follow the road the the village's "old town" and then ask where the trail starts, or just go to the end of the road. The trail is about 2 km. The fort is interesting to explore and the view is commanding.

• The apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary to youths in the town of Medjugorje (around 25 km from Mostar) has seen the town become a must-go destination for travelling pilgrims from around the world. Buses depart from the bus station every few hours.

• Ploče in Croatia is the nearest seaside to Mostar, and is easily accessible with numerous buses and trains daily. Beaches are nicest for swimming north of the city.

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• There is a nice option for doing outdoor sports in the Drežanka gorge, 25 km north of Mostar. The Drežanka river is a tributary of the Neretva, and the two rivers join in an artificial hydropower lake.
  You can get there from Mostar either by bus in the direction of Drežnica - there are buses which go all the way to the end of the gorge, Gornja Drežnica. Or you can go with the train from Mostar in the direction of Sarajevo (train stop Drežnica, approx 30 min.)
  Directly at the bridge over the Neretva at the village of "Usce" (no signs), if you follow the signs of Vrt Ciklama you will end up at a beautifully located natural climbing site. There are many routes, with different levels, but you need to bring your own material; ropes etc. The site is basically a field at the foot of the walls.
  At the climbing wall is a small camping ground (5km per night). There are no showers (there is the lake...) but there is a squatting toilet and a tap. The camping ground can also be used as starting point to explore the gorge, although theres supposed to be more campsites more inside the gorge.
  Besides climbing there are several nice biketrails (you need your own bike)
  Hiking is also no problem. Either following the asphalt road all the way to the village Draga at the end of the gorge, or more off the beaten path on the slopes of the mountains. For example a bit beyond the village Žlib (approx 5km from the beginning of the gorge), there is a small monument for a Muslim leader, and if you there take the path branches north east away from the main road you start a beautiful hike, climbing more than 1000m, taking approx 3 hours one way. The path ends up at a source, after which you can walk over the alpine meadow to the mountain ridge. You could try to continu down, but we haven't tried it, as there was no clear path. A local said there are no landmines, but don't hesitate to have this confirmed.
  Another apparently nice hike is a bit further up the road, approx 15 km more in the direction of Draga (hitchhike!), and also more known in the valley. It is to the source of another stream to the Drežanka, and the path has been "opened" with the help of an Italian NGO. According to the sign, this hike takes 1,5 hours (not sure one way or two), but the first part looked promising.
  There are more outdoor sporting options in and around the gorge, some also guided. For these you can search the web with "Dreznica". Besides the campsite at the beginning of the gorge there are several options to rent rooms in the gorge, and here and there small shops open, 7 days a week.

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