Non air-con bus is available from Mandalay (26th st, near 90th st). Trip takes about 3 hours including one break (20-30 mins) for 3500 Kyats. It is probably safer to get the bus from bus station and have your seat booked. Bus appears to be quite frequent.
Local non air-con bus from Bagan starts at 9:00am, then 10:30 and 12h30, and takes about 3-4 hours including several stops. Can be booked at the bus new station, located 7km from the city center (pay not more than 3500 K (June 2014), which is the locals price, haggle!), hotels charge about 5000 K.
Located about 20 km southeast of Monywa, or about 30-45 mins in tuktuk. Built between 1939 and 1952, the unique feature of this pagoda is its plenty small sculptures of Buddha (said to be more than 500,000). There is a little tower just opposite the pagoda which can be climbed. Entrance fee for foreigners: 3$.
4 km from Thanboddhay Pagoda, stand 2 big statues of Buddha and a golden pagoda which makes a pretty amazing sight. One Buddha is standing and the another is lying on its side. You can enter the inside of the standing Buddha which consists of quite a few stories. The images on the walls are mostly depicting hell.
Monywa Hotel, Room is not new, though fairly clean and equipped with new aircon. Bathroom is clean. Room (February 2013) cost USD 35 including breakfast. Staff is very friendly and helpful. Tuktuk ride from bus station to this hotel cost 2000 Ks
New Golden Arrow Hotel, Located directly in the center, rooms look shabby, aircon cannot be adjusted and breakfast consists of cold fried eggs and toast. However the rooms are clean, you can refill purified water in the lobby and they provide free WiFi. By far not as bad as described in the Lonely Planet! Double room with private bathroom and aircon is 20$ (June 2014). Under renovation at that time so expect the price to be increased.
Shwe Taung Tarn Guesthouse, Most popular guesthouse for tourists in Monywa as it is the first pick of the Loney Planet. However the cheapest double rooms are really rundown, wet carpet floor, leaking toilet, unclean. By far not as good as described in Lonely Planet. Can't say anything about the more expensive/newer rooms. No internet!Cheapest double room with private bathroom: 20$ (May 2013). Single 12 $ (June 2014)
New hotel between the Clock Tower and Bogyoke Statue. Brandnew (May 2013), expensive looking hotel with currently promotional offers: 20$ for a double room. Extremly friendly staff.
Hotel Chindwin, Bogyoke Road, Yonegyi Quarter, Monywa, Sagaing Division (near the clock tower), ☎ +95071-26150, . cost USD 20 per night including *amazing* Burmese breakfast. Fantastic view of Monywa from the roof-top where breakfast is served. Used as a pitstop for the package tour folks too. Also free wifi available, signal is best for standard rooms that are near the reception. edit
Win Unity Resort Hotel, Bogyoke Road, Yone Gyi Quarter, Kantharyar, Monywa, Sagain Division, Myanmar, ☎ +95-71-22438, 22013, 23225, 23226. Best accommodation in Monywa. Standard rooms starting with 45 USD per night, including rich breakfast buffet. Bungalows starting from 75 USD, depending on high or low season. Some rooms have lake view. Room rate includes the use of swimming pool and gym. The hotel is about 10 minutes drive from Monywa bus station. edit
Train to Mandalay leaves at 6:00 am.
Bus to Mandalay is departing every hour. However, best to get the hotel to book your ticket. Although no aircon and old bus, their booking system is fairly organized with designated seats number.