Montreal/Plateau

From Wikitravel

Jump to: navigation, search

Plateau is a district in Montreal.

[edit] Get in

The Plateau is centrally located just adjacent to the downtown core, so there are numerous ways to access the Plateau. Ave du Parc, Boul. St. Laurent, Rue St. Denis, and Rue Papineau run north/south through the Plateau, and are paralleled by dozens of side streets in between. East/west, Rue Sherbrooke, Ave des Pins, Ave Rachel, Ave Mont Royal, and Boul. St. Joseph bisect the Plateau, with Mont Royal carrying a significant number of shops, bars, and restaurants. Each of these streets are accessible by car (though St. Laurent is one way, going north), and heavily serviced by numerous taxi companies.

Each of the streets listed above along with a few others are serviced by bus routes run by the STM. In addition, the Orange line of the Montreal Metro run underneath Rue Berri, adjacent to St. Denis. Sherbrooke station, Mont Royal station, and Laurier station are located within the boundaries of the Plateau.

Bike routes are few, but useful. Separate bike lanes exist on Ave. Rachel from Parc Mont Royal to Boul. Parc LaFontaine and Rue Brebeuf from Parc LaFontaine to Parc Laurier and there are painted bike lanes along St. Urbain, Milton, Prince Arthur, and St. Joseph.These lanes are generally not respected by Montreal drivers, so watch out. In addition, several of these lanes are not plowed during the winter, making them all but impassible following heavy snow.

Rue Prince Arthur from St. Laurent to Laval is a pedestrian mall, and bikes are NOT permitted.

[edit][add listing] See

The most dominant architectural feature of the Plateau is the endless rows of Montreal duplexes and triplexes that house the majority of the Plateau's population. These buildings date from the early 20th Century and, with their distinctive exterior staircases and wrought-iron ornamentation, have come to define the visual landscape of the Plateau.

In addition, there are a few buildings of note scattered around the Plateau. The Warshaw building (St. Laurent and Bagg) dates from the 1920s and was the Plateau's first skyscraper. Though only 7 stories tall, it is a distinctive feature of the neighbourhood. Further north are two other large bulidings: 4020 St. Laurent and 4100 St. Laurent. At 8 and 10 stories respectively, they are the largest buildings in the Plateau. 4020 St. Laurent is recognizable by its impressive refinished neo-Art Decco exterior. 4100 St. Laurent is less impressive, but houses a number of commercial and light industrial enterprises ranging from an alternative sex shop to a startup film company.

On the southern end of the Plateau (in an area that, depending on your definition, might actually be outside the Plateau and located instead in the McGill Ghetto area) is the Galleries du Parc, a large 1960s-era urban redevelopment project. The Galleries are comprised of four large buildings, three of them devoted to apartments and the fourth devoted to office space. The office building carries the logo of 'Air Transat', a local Quebec freight airline, however many other businesses are located there. In addition, a former hotel, now a residence of McGill University, and an underground shopping complex are part of the Galleries project. The underground mall, though small, contains a variety of shops and services including a liquor store, a grocery story, a pharmacy, Dollarama, several restaurants and a movie theatre.

The Plateau is bordered on two sides by large parks. To the west is Parc Mont Royal, originally designed by Frank Olmstead in the 1880s and a dominant feature of the Montreal landscape. The park is widely used for recreation, biking, hiking, cross-country skiing in the winter, as well as the weekly Tam Tams celebration during the summer months. Parc Mont Royal is safe and accessible by the adjacent Parc Jeanne Mance and by Ave. du Parc. To the east is Parc LaFontaine, a well-manicured space including an artificial lake, bike paths, sporting facilities, and an outdoor ampitheatre. Both parks are heavily used during the summer months.

A smaller park, Carre St. Louis, can be found at the end of the Prince Arthur pedestrian mall, next to Rue St. Denis. Though a fraction of the size of either Parc LaFontaine or Parc Mont Royal, it is a popular and scenic local destination. Two fountains, bike paths, and easy access to a number of restaurants and shops provide a comforting background and a relaxing setting. On a side note, many of the the gags on the television show 'Just For Laughs' are performed in this park.

There are also a number of examples of impressive urban tableaux and graffiti art found throughout the Plateau. The sidestreets to the east of St. Laurent are well known for this, particularly Ave. Duluth.

[edit][add listing] Do

[edit][add listing] Buy

The Plateau is renowed, perhaps defined, by its abundance of commercial venues. Though shops, depanneurs, and bars are dotted throughout the neighbourhood, there are a few principle commercial avenues. Boul. St. Laurent is the largest and most famous of these, with a cornucopia of restaurants, shops, bars, and other services. Below Ave. des Pins, St. Laurent tends to be more upscale, particularly at the junction of Ave. Prince Arthur. Further north on St. Laurent there are numerous Portuguese restaurants and a variety of clothing stores, harkening back to the street's history as the centre of Montreal's garment district.

In addition, Ave. Mont Royal, Ave. Rachel, Rue St. Denis, and Ave. du Parc above Mont Royal are equally well endowed with commercial outlets. Along the Ave. Rachel bike paths, there are a number of bike-related businesses. St. Denis is well-known for its gourmet restaurants, bookstores, and upscale stores. Ave. du Parc runs through Greek and Jewish neighbourhoods as it runs north into the neighbourhood of Mile End; the highly regarded bagels of St. Viateur and Fairmont are located along this stretch of the street.

As for price, the Plateau has experienced a long stretch of gentrification, which has pushed prices upward in many locations. However, there are still bargains to be found in main places, particularly for vinyl records, books, and second hand clothing.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Budget

  • La Banquise, 994 rue Rachel Est (metro Mont-Royal), 514-525-2415. Open 24 hours. La Banquise consistently tops locals' lists for best poutine in town (perhaps because it's open for post-bar-hopping munchfests when judgment is slightly impaired). The clientele is hip and clubworn, and the staff is friendly. Poutine makes up most of the menu, but if you insist there are hamburgers and other fast-food fare, as well as a bar. $6-10.  edit
  • La Binerie, 367 avenue Mont-Royal Est (metro Mont-Royal), 514-285-9078. A small unpretentious eatery that became a legend. It features traditional meals for under $10, especially fèves aux lard (beans cooked overnight with bacon).
  • Café So, 1302 Ave. du Mont-Royal Est Sandwiches, poutine, drinks, scrumptious desserts, separate breakfast menu with eggs. The atmosphere is a major part of this restaurant. Orange lighting, padded walls, an artsy statue over the bar of a sun and planets orbiting it, gentle music, view of the street. $8-10.
  • Euro-Déli, 3619 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Sherbrooke). Very cozy deli/cafe in the middle of the trendy section of St-Laurent. Excellent fresh pasta, meatballs, lasagna, salads, etc. Very affordable.
  • Maamm Bolduc!, 4351 de Lorimier, (514) 527-3884. Quebecois food include what just may be the best poutine in town, served in a dozen different varieties ranging from traditional to bourguignonne (with mince, mushrooms and red wine sauce). The portions are huge and the misnamed $7.50 petit is plenty for most ordinary mortals.
  • Schwartz's, 3895 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Sherbrooke or bus #55). Famous delicatessen for smoked meat, served up in huge, juicy, peppery slabs. Cash only. No reservations. Expect to wait for a table at most times, but the queue moves fast. Smoked meat sandwich $5.65. Open daily 9 AM-midnight or later.
  • Pain de ..., Duluth, just west of Parc Lafontaine (metro Sherbrooke). Regular bakery hours. This is a vegan bakery. It is delectable. All natural, sometimes no sugar, also caters to gluten-free diets. Go overboard on delicious coconut/orange cakes, rich chocolate brownies, 'dulce de leche' cannolis and signature mongo-big cookies with only good things inside. Worth a detour. Very bikeable area. Feel-good affirmations on the wall that you can add to. edit
  • Cao Thang, 1082 boulevard St-Laurent, (514) 392-0097. Vietnamese sandwiches, snacks and sweets. A traditional Vietnamese pork roll is just $2.50.
  • Croissant de Lune, 1765 rue St-Denis, (514) 843-8146 (metro Berri-UQAM). Sweet and savoury crepes, breakfast fare, sandwiches, beers. A perfect brunch spot. Licensed.
  • Juliette et Chocolat, 1615 rue St-Denis (metro Berri-UQAM). A chocoholic's paradise! The thick menu at this favorite dessert restaurant, chocolaterie and creperie consists of chocolate in all of its forms, from cakes to thick "grandma's style" hot chocolates to salad dressing! Busy on Saturday nights, a great date or dessert spot. Everything here is sinful. A second (larger) location has just opened on Laurier at Parc.
  • Santropol, 3990 rue Saint-Urbain (metro Mont-Royal or bus #55), +1-514-842-3110, [1]. Daily 11:30AM-12AM. WThis favourite Montreal spot serves a great selection of creative, gigantic sandwiches, soups, coffees, teas and breads to appeal to any veggie palate. With a funky decor, a great outdoor garden in the back in the summer, bookshelves stocked with used books, and a food service for the needy, this casual restaurant is a veritable Montreal institution. Casual. Popular among students. $10-20 (per person).  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Le Poisson Rouge, 1201 rue Rachel, (514) 522-4876. A seafood BYOB with a wonderful prix fixe. The maitre d' is friendly and knows everything about each fish and its preparation.
  • Soupe Soup, 80 avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke). Best soup and sandwich in town. Not cheap though but great quality and definitely original.
  • Au Pied de Cochon, 536 avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke), (514) 281-1114. Modern restaurant with casual ambiance. Huge meals. The place to go for lamb and original Quebec cuisine for a reasonable price; the poutine with foie gras is particularly (in)famous.
  • Carissima, 222 avenue Mont-Royal Est (metro Mont-Royal). Excellent fusion Italian cuisine with a Mediterranean and French twist, also features an elegant yet fairly priced wine list.
  • Eduardos, 404 avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke). Good Italian restaurant, bring your wine!
  • Aux Vivres, 4631 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Mont-Royal). Alternative vegetarian cuisine.
  • Byblos, 1499 avenue Laurier Est (metro Laurier), (514) 523-9396. One of the best unknown restaurants in Montreal. Prices are amazingly reasonable for the food quality. Iranian food.
  • Khyber Pass, 506 avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke), (514) 844-7131. Afghan. Bring your own wine.
  • Higuma, 3807 rue St-Denis (metro Sherbrooke), (514) 842-1686. With so many sushi restaurants to choose from, it's hard to know where to begin. Higuma is a perpetual favourite, with excellent quality at a good price.
  • Le Roi du Plateau, 51 rue Rachel Ouest and Chez Doval, 150 rue Marie-Anne Est, are arguably the best of the many Portuguese grill restaurants in town.
  • Brioche Lyonnaise, 1593, rue St-Denis (metro Berri-UQÀM), (514) 842-7017. A popular, reasonably-priced eatery, it can get crowded at times. Sandwiches, crepes.
  • Chu Chai, 4088 rue Saint-Denis (metro Sherbrooke), +1-514-843-4194, [2]. M-Sa 12PM-3PM, 5PM-10PM, Su 12PM-3PM, 5PM-9PM. A treat for vegetarians, vegans, and those who love them, Chu Chai specializes in Thai cuisine made with soy or vegetable protein to simulate meat. The roast "duck" is delicious, and the tom yum gai (lemongrass soup with "chicken") warms the heart. A bistro and takeout counter next door called "Chuch" has the same dishes in a more casual setting, and is "bring your own wine". $15-20 (per person, not including wine).  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • La Chronique, 99 rue Laurier West (metro Laurier, or bus 80), +1-514-271-3095, [3]. Has a casual feel until you see the astonishing creations of master chef Marc de Canck of Belgium. The table d'hôte with wines is perfect in just about every way, but don't get it if you have to ask what it costs. $28-150 ($100 menu, $150 with wine).  edit
  • Vents du Sud, 323 rue Roy Est (metro Sherbrooke), +1-514-281-9913, [4]. Bring your own wine. French restaurant with Basque country meals (St-Jean-de-Luz, Biarritz). Duck and Cassoulet exquisite. edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

The Plateau is full of watering holes and the best thing to do is just wander and discover for yourself. Starting west and moving east, Bar des Pins (formerly Pines Tavern and featured in Mordechai Richler novels) is famous with the McGill set for Tuesday night beer pong. On southeast corner of Prince Arthur and St-Laurent is Vol de Nuit, a good place to start the night, especially in warmer weather when the terrace is open. Boulevard St-Laurent from Prince Arthur to Mount-Royal has a good mix of bars and clubs, from classy to downright sketchy. Korova (named after the bar in A Clockwork Orange) is up a flight of stairs, has great music, and is popular with the hippest kids around. Nearby, also on St-Laurent below Duluth, are Frappe, a bar and pool hall, and Jupiter Room. Further north, on the corner of Clarke (one west of St-Laurent) and Laurier Ave. is Dieu de Ciel, a brasserie that brews its own spectacular beer.

  • Les Bobards, 4328 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Mont-Royal). Good happy hour. Great dancing on very diversified music on Friday nights. edit
  • Bily Kun, 354 avenue Mont-Royal Est (metro Mont-Royal), 514-845-5392, [5]. 3PM-3AM every day. Bily Kun — the name is Czech, meaning "White Horse" — is an institution in Montreal's Plateau district. Dim lighting, candles, and a huge bar give an intimate atmosphere, but Bily Kun gets hopping after 10PM with Montreal's hippest Francophones practically every night. Some of the area's top DJs spin experimental or loungey techno, but there's really no dance floor to speak of. Bar staff is kooky and nice, even if no one can quite explain the ostrich heads lining the walls. Upstairs O Patro Vys from the same owners frequently hosts small shows and events. $4.50 draft beers, $5 well drinks.  edit
  • Quai des Brumes, 4481 rue St-Denis (metro Mont-Royal), +1 514 499-0467. Very small and comfy watering hole in the heart of St Denis near Parc du Mont-Royal. Velvet drapes, wood finish, and a chrome bar. Sometimes has live entertainment, which becomes a very intimate experience due to the small size. edit
  • Casa Del Popolo/La Sala Rossa, 4873 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Laurier), 514-284-3804, [6]. Established in September 2000, Casa Del Popolo is Montréal's only family-run neighborhood vegetarian hot-spot! Part fair-trade café, part music venue, part bar, part foozball hall... The Casa and its sister venue, La Sala Rossa, frequently host touring indie artists. Shows are cheap, or even free. Try the goat cheese sandwich!  edit
  • Le Réservoir, 9 avenue Duluth Est (metro Mont-Royal), 514-849-7779. Brewpub. Very good snacks and tapas in a beautiful decor, there's a second floor upstairs. edit
  • Bifteck, 3702 boul. St-Laurent. Some of the cheapest beer in town, served with some of the saltiest popcorn in all of Creation, consumed by bohemians and students from near and far (and the occasional honest-to-God rock star). Great place to start or end a St-Laurent pub crawl: to the south, you'll find trendy, relatively expensive places; to the north, some of the best dive bars anywhere. Or you can just stay and get tanked. edit
  • Go Go Lounge, 3682 boul. St-Laurent. It's on the trendier part of St-Laurent, it looks trendy outwardly, the martini menu is certainly hip and happenin', but there's something missing: attitude. Anyone is made to feel welcome here, and if there's a velvet rope and a doorman, it's only because the place really is full. edit
  • Else's, 156 rue Roy Est. Small, cozy space with a great selection of draft beers and fine whiskies. Technically, it's a restaurant, but you're better off eating elsewhere and just picking at the mandatory nosh (bowl of olives, etc.). edit
  • Dieu du Ciel, 29 avenue Laurier West (metro Laurier), 514-490-9555, [7]. One of the best brew pubs in Montreal, it has a nice atmosphere for discussions between friends. edit
  • The Green Room/Le Salon Verte, 5386 Blvd St-Laurent (metro Laurier), [8]. Mile End cultural center. Also serves drinks and plays loud music. edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • Auberge Chez Jean[9], rue Henri Jullien, metro Mt. Royal; $20 (dorm), breakfast incl.
  • Le Matou, 4420 rue St. Denis, 514 982-0030, [10]. Small B&B in a typical Plateau apartment building $75-95 double.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Hotel-studio Anne ma soeur Anne, 4119, rue Saint-Denis (metro Mont-Royal). Brand-new boutique studio-hotel. $60-150 Budget, superior, and large suites.
  • A la Bonne Heure, 4425, rue Saint-Hubert (metro Mont-Royal).[11] Charming new B&B just above Parc Lafountaine, two blocks from Mont Royal shopping, restaurants, nightlife. Only 4 rooms, so book ahead. US$60-100 double occupancy.
  • Chez Francois B&B, 4031, Rue Papineau, 514-239-4638.[12] Located in the lower Plateau area, close to Duluth restaurants, Saint-Laurent nightlife and more. Five rooms in a typical Montreal walk up, lovingly maintained by Francois, an accommodating host who has excellent suggestions for tourists, as well as preparing wonderful breakfasts which are included in his very reasonable rates, from 85-140 CAD. An especially good deal for couples is Room #4, includes a jacuzzi bath for only 140 CAD.

[edit] Splurge

  • Hotel Godin,10 West Sherbrooke, 514 843-6000, [13]. A new modern hotel with great design. ideally located near hotspot boulevard St-Laurent.
  • Auberge de La Fontaine, 1301, rue Rachel Est. Phone.: 514 597-0166, (Toll free:(800) 597-0597).[14] Fun B&B with 25 rooms. Located on the Plateau and across the street from Parc Lafontaine. CND$ 100-280. (metro Mont-Royal)

[edit] Contact

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!