Mogadishu
From Wikitravel
 WARNING: Mogadishu is regarded as the most lawless and dangerous city on Earth. It is not safe for leisure or tourism. If you are planning a visit for international aid work, etc, you will need expert advice and planning. |
Mogadishu (Somali: Muqdisho) is the official capital of Somalia. However, the internationally-recognized Transitional Federal Government (TFN) only controls a few square blocks; the rest is in the hands of Islamist and/or clan or warlord-affiliated militias. In early 2006, the Union of Islamic courts removed a US-backed coalition of warlords from power and restored order to the volatile capital for some six months. On December 28, 2006, however, the Islamic regime fled the city to the south as Ethiopian-backed government troops re-took the capital without firing a shot in a surprising escalation of events. However, the Ethiopian occupiers were widely despised and began withdrawing in 2007. Since then, various militias have been vying for control and most are opposed to the legitimate government. The fighting has created tens of thousands of fleeing refugees, has forced many non-government organizations (NGOs) to cease operations (such as providing food, shelter and medicine) and has brought Somalia's very existence as a country to breaking-point. The fact that even thousands of Somalis refuse to stay there should make the situation clear: the city is extremely dangerous.
[edit] Understand
While historically inaccurate, the war film Black Hawk Down can, in some ways, give a better understanding of the lawlessness and dangers that exist in Mogadishu and other parts of Somalia. The book Black Hawk Down by Mark Bowden gives more detail and a very accurate description of what Mogadishu was like back in 1993. The story of Black Hawk Down is based on the deaths of 18 American servicemen who were killed on the lawless streets of Mogadishu. While the film's slogan is 'no-one is left behind', the U.S Army could do little to stop Mogadishu warlords from pulling the corpses of 5 soldiers (Randy Shughart, Gary Gordon, Ray Frank, Bill Cleveland, and Tommy Fields) through the streets of the city tied to the back of their pick-up trucks. All 5 bodies were later recovered.
[edit] Get in
The Mogadishu airport was bombed in December 2006 by Ethiopia to keep the Islamic Fighters from receiving supplies. According to BBC News, international flights are available, but only on Russian planes that land on dirt strips outside the Capital. It is possible to drive into the city by truck, but this is considered a risky activity, unless you employ a small battalion of local militia which are readily available for hire. Roads link the city with many Somali locales and with Kenya and Ethiopia. Armed guards, hired security forces, and experienced guides are all but mandatory for a safe entry, and even then the risk of your being injured, killed or captured is extremely high.
[edit] By boat
Small cargo ships regularly leave from the Old Harbour of Mombasa for Mogadishu and sometimes Kismayo. Speak with the security officers at the gate of this tiny port and they will negotiate a fare with the captain. The journey will take 2-5 days, depending on conditions. The sea is rough in July-August, requiring lengthier travel.
Arriving by boat is risky, as there is the strong possibility of being attacked by pirates, though the port area is relatively secure.
[edit] Get around
Mogadishu has had no effective government for 18 years, which has left the transport network that was in place in disrepair. Roads are a muddy mess during rain, traffic lights do not work, and there are no enforced traffic laws or public transport. Roads may be blocked or closed with no notice by militiamen. Traffic drives on the right. Some reports say that to get through intersections near markets crowded with people, those wealthy enough to have vehicles fire machine guns into the air to clear a path. Safe travel through Mogadishu is only possible by convoy with heavily armed guides and guards, which actually can be hired quite easily. Even with guards, the likelihood of being injured, kidnapped, and/or killed is still very high.
[edit][add listing] See
- Arba-Rucun Mosque (Mosque of the four pillars). Fortunate enough to have a relation to Islam, one of few things the city's warlords can agree on, this 1269 mosque has been more lucky than the neighbouring cathedral, and is one of very few buildings in the historic center which is not a ruin. It's said to have been build by a direct descendant of the Prophet Mohammed. edit
[edit][add listing] Do
[edit] Learn
The Mogadishu University is a non-governmental university that is governed by the Board of Trustees and the University Council. Admission requirements for the University as listed on their website include:
Original secondary school certificate plus one copy. Birth certificate. Certificate of good conduct. 12 photos (6 x 4) cm. Completed application form. Payment of the registration fee. Passing written and oral entrance examinations.
Benadir University was started in 2002 with the intention to train doctors but has expanded into other fields.
[edit][add listing] Buy
The Bakaara Market (Somali: Suuqa Bakaaraha) is a Mogadishu open market and the largest in Somalia. The name Bakaaraha derives from the Somali word for grain silo or storage, baqaar. (Bakaaraha is a definite article.)
The market was created in late 1972 during the reign of Siad Barre regime. Proprietors sold and still sell daily essentials (including staples such as maize, sorghum, beans, peanuts, sesame, wheat and rice), petrol and medicine. But it expanded during and after the civil war and has gained notoriety as a market for small arms and other weapons, including rocket propelled grenades (RPGs), mortars (80mm and 120mm), 23mm and 30mm antiaircraft guns, and ammunition of all types.
It has also gained infamy as a hub for falsified documents. Forged Somali passports can be processed within minutes, and Ethiopian and Kenyan passports are also available. Birth certificates, university diplomas, and various forms of photo identification can also be openly purchased. This illicit sub-market is known as Cabdalle Shideeye after one of its first proprietors.
The Bakaara Market is a focus of ongoing arms control efforts for the disarmament in Somalia. The market should be considered hazardous not only because of its content and the presence of some unsavory characters, but also because it has caught fire several times in the last few years.
[edit][add listing] Eat
International cuisine can be found at Nasa Hablod Restaurant inside Hotel Nasa Hablod and at the Sahafi Hotel. These are probably the safest options for travelers.
[edit][add listing] Drink
- Abdille Nuradin's Bar, (Infront of the STN Tele Comp). Opening Time 8AM/6PM. 1000 shln per drink. edit
[edit][add listing] Sleep
- Hotel Nasa-Hablod [1] Km 4, (2 Km from International Airport), [2], eno@deeqa.com . Restaurant, meeting rooms, safe box, TV, internet access, a/c. contact details Hotel Naso- Hablod km .4 Mogadishu - Somalia Tel:+25215549313,+25250960805,953030 Fax:: +2521215943
- Sahafi Hotel. One of the best hotels in Mogadishu. The Manager is very helpful, the staff is attentive, and the food is good. Although the compound is probably your safest bet (if there is such a thing) in Mogadishu, a BBC producer was shot in the back and killed in front of the hotel in 2005, and two French citizens abducted by gunmen in 2009.
[edit] Stay safe
The safest way through Mogadishu is escorted by Ethiopian and official Somalian troops; however, they themselves are a target for the militias and may come under attack. Independent travel is suicidal. When being escorted, it is best to be in an armored car. Infantry are highly likely to get engaged in street battles, and an armored vehicle can provide far better protection against most threats. A bullet proof vest is a must-have in Mogadishu.
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