From Wikitravel

Mogadishu (Somali: Muqdisho) is the official capital of Somalia, and is now controlled by the internationally-recognized Somali government as of the end of 2006. In early 2006, the Union of Islamic courts removed a US-backed coalition of warlords from power and restored order to the volatile capital for some six months. On December 28, 2006, however, the Islamic regime fled the city to the south as Ethiopian-backed government troops re-took the capital without firing a shot in a surprising escalation of events. The city is still a highly dangerous place though, and it is strongly advised to refrain from visiting at this time. New fears are mounting about an Iraq-style insurgency developing from left-over Islamic Court Fighters.

[edit] Understand

While historically inaccurate, the war film Black Hawk Down can, in some ways, give a better understanding of the lawlessness and dangers that exist in Mogadishu and other parts of Somalia. The book Black Hawk Down by Mark Bowden gives more detail and a very accurate description of what Mogadishu was like back in 1993. The story of Black Hawk Down is based on the deaths of 18 American servicemen who were killed on the lawless streets of Mogadishu. While the film's slogan is 'no-one is left behind', the U.S Army could do little to stop Mogadishu warlords from pulling the corpses of 5 soldiers (Randy Shughart, Gary Gordon, Ray Frank, Bill Cleveland, and Tommy Fields) through the streets of the city tied to the back of their pick-up trucks. All 5 bodies were later recovered.

[edit] Get in

The Mogadishu airport was bombed in December 2006 by Ethiopia to keep the Islamic Fighters from receiving supplies. According to BBC News, international flights are available, but only on Russian planes that land on dirt strips outside the Capital. It is possible to drive into the city by truck, but this is considered a risky activity. Roads link the city with many Somali locales and with Kenya and Ethiopia. Armed guards, hired security forces, and experienced guides are all but mandatory for a safe entry, and even then the risk of your being injured or killed is extremely high.

[edit] By boat

Small cargo ships regularly leave from the Old Harbour of Mombasa for Mogadishu and sometimes Kismayo. Speak with the security officers at the gate of this tiny port and they will negotiate a fare with the captain. The journey will take 2-5 days, depending on conditions. The sea is rough in July-August, requiring lengthier travel.

Arriving by boat is risky, as there is the possibility of being attacked by pirates, though the port area is relatively secure.

[edit] Get around

Mogadishu has had no effective government for 15 years, which has left the transport network that was in place in disrepair. Roads are a muddy mess during rain, traffic lights do not work, and there are no enforced traffic laws or public transport. Some reports say that to get through intersections near markets crowded with people, those wealthy enough to have vehicles fire machine guns into the air to clear a path. Safe travel through Mogadishu is only possible by convoy with heavily armed guides and guards, which actually can be hired quite easily. Even with guards, the likelihood of being injured, kidnapped, and/or killed is still very high. The only traffic rule that can be agreed upon is the traffic drives on the left side of the road.

[edit][add listing] See

Since my rather short incursion into the area was rather brief(4 days) as a member of the American media, I did not have the opportunity nor desire to enrich myself in the cultural aspects of the city. We were only allowed to leave the Hotel in the company armed escorts and guides. I am assuming people employed in a similar capacity would also be bound to such arrangements, both as an insurance and security measure, as well as just basic common sense. Gunfire is common almost every hour of the day. For your own safety, follow your assigned protocol.

[edit][add listing] Do

Again, It would be difficult to believe that anyone would want to visit this war torn area to relax and build a summer home. The only Western individuals you are bound to encounter would be international aid workers and members of the Media. Even so, both activities pose a considerable risk. To be blunt, do your job and leave as quickly as possible!

[edit][add listing] Buy

The Bakaara Market (Somali: Suuqa Bakaaraha) is a Mogadishu open market and the largest in Somalia. The name Bakaaraha derives from the Somali word for grain silo or storage, baqaar. (Bakaaraha is a definite article.)

The market was created in late 1972 during the reign of Siad Barre regime. Proprietors sold and still sell daily essentials (including staples such as maize, sorghum, beans, peanuts, sesame, wheat and rice), petrol and medicine, but it also largely expanded during and after the civil war and had has became notoriously known as a market of small arms and other weapons, including rocket propelled grenades (RPGs), mortars (80mm and 120mm), 23mm and 30mm antiaircraft guns, and ammunition of all types.

It is also famous for other illicit activities, such as forged Somali passports processed within minutes, including Ethiopian and Kenyan passports, and other forged documents, including but not limited to birth certificates and university diplomas. This illicit sub-market is famously known as Cabdalle Shideeye, named after one of its first proprietors.

The Bakaara Market is a focus of ongoing arms control efforts for the disarmament in Somalia, and has caught fire a few times in recent years.

[edit][add listing] Eat

You can find at Nasa Hablod Restaurant International cuisine and is located at Hotel Nasa Hablod Km 4 Mogadishu. Tel 215983 eno10@hotmail.com

[edit][add listing] Drink

[edit] Learn

The Mogadishu University is a non-governmental university that is governed by the Board of Trustees and the University Council. Admission requirements for the University as listed on their website include:

Original secondary school certificate plus one copy. Birth certificate. Certificate of good conduct. 12 photos (6 x 4) cm. Completed application form. Payment of the registration fee. Passing written and oral entrance examinations.

Benadir University was started in 2002 with the intention to train doctors but has expanded into other fields.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

• Hotel Nasa-Hablod [1] Km 4, (2 Km from International Airport), eno10@hotmail.com. Restaurant, meeting rooms, safe box, TV, internet access, a/c.

• Sahafi Hotel. One of the best hotels in Mogadishu. The Manager is very helpful, the staff is attentive, and the food is good. Although the compound is probably your safest bet (if there is such a thing) in Mogadishu, a BBC producer was shot in the back and killed in front of the hotel in 2005.

[edit] Stay safe

The safest way through Mogadishu is escorted by Ethiopian and official Somalian troops. Independent travel is suicidal. When being escorted, it is best to be in an armored car or, even better, a Tank. Infantry are highly likely to get engaged in street battles, and an armored vehicle can provide far better protection.

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