From Wikitravel

Miyajima (宮島) [1] is a small island near Hiroshima, Japan. Famed for Itsukushima Shrine and its floating torii, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and officially one of Japan's Top 3 Views, Miyajima is a very popular destination for Japanese and foreign tourists alike.

[edit] Understand

Miyajima has been considered a holy place for most of Japanese history. In 806 AD, the monk Kobo Daishi ascended Mt. Misen and opened the mountain as an ascetic site for the Shingon sect of Buddhism. In the years since then, Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines have maintained a close relationship on the island. In the past, women were not allowed on the island and old people were shipped elsewhere to die, so that the ritual purity of the site would not be spoiled; in fact, the island's real name is Itsukushima (厳島), and Miyajima is just a popular nickname meaning "Shrine Island".

These days, strict measures are taken to ensure that the modern town retains a classically Japanese Edo-era look, very much a rarity in Japan and a large reason for the town's attractiveness. There are still a few bits of concrete warren that snuck in, but the seafront promenade is particularly attractive, especially later in the day when the rampaging tour groups head home and the stone lanterns are turned on. Deer wander freely in the streets and parks. While somewhat more restrained than their counterparts in Nara, they're still eager for a hand-out.

• Miyajima Tourist Association, 1162-18 Miyajima-cho Hatsukaichi-city Hiroshima-ken 〒739-0505, ☎ 0829-44-2011, [2]. Conveniently located inside the ferry building.  edit

[edit] Get in

Miyajima can be reached by sea from Hiroshima. The main ferry terminal on the mainland is Miyajimaguchi (宮島口), which you can reach from JR Hiroshima station either by JR train (¥400, 25 minutes, or ¥570 for a combination ticket with the ferry) or by tram line #2 (¥270, 70 minutes from Hiroshima JR Station). The tram line also passes by the Peace Memorial Park.

From Miyajimaguchi, JR ferries [3] and Matsudai ferries [4] run to Miyajima Pier up to 10 times per hour. The trip takes 10 minutes and costs ¥170 each way; Japan Rail Pass holders can use the JR ferry for free. The last ferry returns to the mainland at 10:40PM. Most tour groups are gone after 5PM, so you'll have a rather different experience on the island if you wait them out.

There are direct ferry connections from the Motoyasubashi Pier of the Hiroshima Peace Park, run by Aqua Net [5], with departures once per hour between 8:50AM and 6:50PM (returns between 9AM and 5:05PM). It's a scenic 50 minute ride, but these charge a steep ¥1900 one-way, ¥1500 return (half-price for children). Direct connections are also available from Ujina Port in Hiroshima, allowing connections with Matsuyama.

No bridges connect Miyajima to the mainland. Some ferries will carry automobiles and motorcycles, but parking on the island is expensive and difficult to find, unless arranged in advance with a hotel on the island, and most of the sights can't be reached by car. Quite a few of the hotels are willing to pick guests up from the pier with advance notice, though.

[edit] Get around

Miyajima is small enough to walk, and there are English-language signs throughout the island. Taxis can be taken from the pier to the hotels and residential areas, but not the tourist sights.

The Miyajima free pass (¥2000) includes unlimited travel on the Mt. Misen ropeway, the ferry, and Hiroshima street cars for two days, so it is a good deal even if you only plan on taking the ferry and the ropeway. It's available from the Hiroshima tourist office.

[edit][add listing] See

• Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社). Opens 6:30AM; closes 5:30PM Jan/Feb/Nov, to 6PM March-Oct, to 5PM Dec. Miyajima's main sight, the shrine is a large, red-lacquered complex of halls and pathways on stilts, originally so built that commoners could visit without defiling the island with their footprints. Weddings are occasionally held there, but that doesn't bar visitors, and the priest's ceremonial dance is a memorable sight. It's about ten minutes from the pier. ¥300 for temple entry, ¥500 for entry plus Treasure Hall.  edit

• Floating Torii (Otorii). Standing in the bay in front of the shrine, the floating torii is the "gate" to Itsukushima. Note that whether the torii is "floating" or merely mired in mud depends on the tide. The Hiroshima tourist information office will be able to tell you the time of the high tide, which is the best time to see the torii. If you spend a full day here, though, you should have the chance to see it both ways.  edit

• Senjokaku (千畳閣). The name means "1000 Mat Pavilion", a fairly apt description of this gigantic wooden hall which doesn't actually contain much other than empty space. It was originally built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1587, but left incomplete after his death. There's also a picturesque 5-story pagoda (五重塔 Gojuto) next door, and plenty of cherry trees if you are visiting in sakura season.  edit

• Daisho-in (大聖院), ☎ 0829-44-0111, [6]. Because it's nestled into the hills, this Buddhist temple is easily missed by tourists, but it features a number of interesting sights and a respite from the crowds. Look for the Dai-hannyakyo Sutra (大般若経), the golden prayer wheels that are said to bring enormous fortune to anyone who touches them, and the Henjokutsu Cave (遍照窟), a fascinating and eerie collection of Buddhist icons related to the famed pilgrimage route in Shikoku. Free.  edit

• Miyajima Public Aquarium, 10-3 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-2010, [7]. 8:30AM-5PM daily. Closed for renovation until August 2011. When open, it has a decent collection of sea creatures, a few seal shows, and an odd penguin march in the afternoon. It's worth a stop if you have restless kids in tow — about a twenty minute walk from the pier. ¥1050.  edit

• Museum of History and Folklore, 57 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-2019. Tu-Su 8:30AM-5PM. A small, charming collection of folk crafts and pieces of Miyajima history, many donated by locals. The main building was once the residence of a local soy sauce mogul, built about 170 years ago, and has a traditional garden out back. ¥300 (¥170/150 for teens/kids).  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Mt. Misen (弥山), (530 meters). If you have energy to spare, Mt. Misen offers gorgeous views of the island and sea. The hike takes about an hour, depending on rest stops along the way. Look for the signs for the ropeway, and when you reach it, just keep going. There is a less used, slightly more strenuous (and more rewarding) route called the Omoto Pass that begins in the mossy park near the aquarium. Those with less energy (or inclination) can cheat and take the ropeway to the top and hike from there (¥1000 one way, ¥1800 round trip). The ropeway closes at 5PM, and it is a 30 minute walk from the end of the ropeway to Mt Misen.  edit

• Momijidani Park (紅葉谷公園). The ropeway station is located in the middle of Momijidani Park, but the park is worth a stroll even if you're not headed up. Known for its autumn colors, there are quite a few quiet little temples to explore along the way, and many of the island's hotels are tucked away here.  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

Oddly enough, Miyajima is well-known for its rice scoops (杓子 shakushi), spatula-esque wooden spoons used to serve cooked rice. You can even gaze on the World's Largest Spatula (well over 5m long), showcased along Omotesando, the main shopping street.

The sheer number of souvenir shops is mind-boggling. For the most part, they all sell the same things for the same prices — rice scoops, miniature floating toriis, and souvenir boxes of sweets are by far the most common items. (Even Hello Kitty has her own Miyajima-themed shop on Omotesando.) However, the path between the port from Momijidani Park has a few statuaries and art dealers with impressive wares and similarly impressive prices.

[edit] Eat & Drink

There are many little restaurants and vendors in the shopping streets near the shrine. As a rule of thumb, anything out by the seafront in the restored classical houses will be expensive, while the simpler eateries in the streets will be cheaper. Refreshments are also available atop Mt. Misen, with the usual top-of-a-mountain surcharge. Most public restaurants close around 5PM, so travelers staying overnight should plan to have dinner at their hotels or stock up on snacks. Most hotels also have lounges with drinks available.

If you don't eat seafood, be sure to notify your hotel well in advance, as that's almost certainly on the menu. Oysters are a popular dish, though availability may be seasonal.

Momiji manjū (もみじ饅頭) are small cakes made in the shape of a maple leaf. Traditionally, they're made with sweet bean paste, but cheese, chocolate and other variations are also available. Keep an eye out for shop windows on Omotesando where you can see them being made. Boxes of momiji manjū are on sale throughout Hiroshima prefecture, but Miyajima is the best place to buy them hot and fresh. A few shops will serve you tea and a sampling while you decide which kind suits you best.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Accommodation on Miyajima is uniformly expensive, and many people on a budget choose to day-trip from Hiroshima instead. But if you can swing it, a night here is definitely worthwhile, as the island is much nicer without the inevitable flag-waving and megaphone-equipped tour groups that descend during the day.

[edit] Budget

• Backpackers Miyajima (バックパッカー宮島), 1-8-11 Miyajima-guchi, Hatsukaichi-shi, ☎ 0829-56-3650, [8]. A new backpackers hostel in Miyajima-guchi — on the mainland, close to the ferry terminal. The English-speaking staff hold a takoyaki party every Saturday night. From the station, walk to the ferry terminal and then take a left; follow the road past the waterwheel. There should be plenty of fliers around if you get lost. Rates from ¥2,500 per night.  edit

• Miyajima-guchi Youth Hostel, 1-4-14 Miyajima-guchi, ☎ 0829-56-1444, [9]. Also on the mainland — walk straight out of the station and take a right at the first crossing. Public computers, wi-fi, and private baths available. ¥2,600 for IYHA members, no meals offered.  edit

• Miyajima Tsutsumigaura Camp-jo, Tsutsumigaura, Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-2903. A nice campsite at the Tsutsumigaura Beach, about 4 km from the port. Cabins and outdoor grills are available as well. Buses running between the port and the campsite from the morning until six in the afternoon (¥300). There are clean toilets, but no shower: you have to use the bath-house a little way up at the bungalows, for an extra ¥300, and it closes around 8PM. The local deer walk freely around the campgrounds, so don't leave food unattended in the tent while you're away! Reservations are required. Extras aside, the basic fee is ¥300 per person.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Kikugawa Guest House, 796 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-0039, [10]. An older building with eight Western and Japanese-style rooms and private baths. ¥7,140/8,190 per person off/on-season, with discounts for kids; meals extra.  edit

• Kokuminshukusha Mori-no-Yado (国民宿舎 杜の宿), ☎ 0829-44-0430, [11]. A fairly standard Japanese ryokan, but it's run by the government and hence a little more affordable than the competition. Rooms ¥7800/8500 per person in the low/high season.  edit

• Kotobuki, 515 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-2526, [12]. About five minutes from the pier. Some rooms have private baths. Japanese-style rooms from ¥7,000 per person (minimum two), meals extra.  edit

• Mikarikyu, 849 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-2111, [13]. A large, mostly Japanese-style hotel, but a few comparatively dingy Western-style rooms are available. Rooms have private baths, but two impressive public baths with views alternate between genders from AM to PM. Rooms from ¥13,950 for two people (meals included).  edit

• Momiji-so, Momijidani Park, ☎ 0829-44-0077, [14]. Five Japanese-style rooms with only basic amenities but lovely forest views and a restaurant with nice outdoor seating. To find it, just follow the signs to the ropeway station for Mt. Misen. ¥8400 per person — ¥10,500 with breakfast, ¥16,800 with dinner.  edit

• Ryoso Kawaguchi, 469 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-0018, [15]. About ten minutes from the pier. Rooms are Japanese style, with two common baths and a third floor lounge. Japanese or Western-style dinner and breakfast are available for an extra charge. Rooms ¥7350 single, ¥12,600 double, ¥18,900 triple, with reduced rates for children.  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Benten-no-Yado Itsukushima, 634 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-2129, [16]. Japanese-style rooms with, as the name suggests, great views of Itsukushima and the floating torii. They also offer some excellent amenities such as a true onsen, rock bath, and massages. Rooms from ¥24,500/26,500 single off-season (meals included).  edit

• Iwaso (岩惣), 345-1 Miyajima-cho (Momijidani Park), ☎ 0829-44-2233, [17]. An old-school Japanese ryokan dating back to 1854, and probably the best digs on the island. Pick-up available from the pier if you call ahead. Rooms (with two meals) in the comparatively characterless new wing start at ¥19,000 per head and climb to a very steep ¥40,000 per head for the old wing.  edit

• Kinsui Villa, 1133 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-2131, [18]. Japanese-style rooms with themes based on the view or the decor (such as The Cat and The Owl); Western-style rooms available for single travelers. The landlord takes particular pride in his hot springs. Rooms ¥19,500/22,000 off/on-season.  edit

• Kinsui Villa Annex, 1165 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-2191, [19]. Japanese-style rooms, including ones for single travelers, and a spa with a view. They offer healthy meals that are designed for "light-hearted couples" and "happy ladies" (so be prepared to choose appropriately). Rooms ¥10,500/13,000 off/on-season.  edit

• Jukeiso, 50 Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-0300, [20]. Very much a luxury stopover, but well worth the cost. Includes choice of Japanese or European dinner and a Japanese breakfast. Good views over the shrine and torii from the tatami rooms and their restaurant/lounge. Rooms from ¥8,000 for one person to ¥48,000 for a large group room.  edit

• Miyajima Grand Arimoto, 364 Minami-machi, Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-2411, [21]. Sleek new hotel offering Japanese and Western-style rooms. Meals are included in room rate — with cheaper meals for cheaper rooms — though upgrades are available for an extra charge. Rooms from ¥15,750 per person.  edit

• Watanabe Inn, 215-1 Takimachi, Miyajima-cho, ☎ 0829-44-0234, [22]. A small inn about twenty minutes from the pier — a lovely spot close to Daisho-in, as long as you don't mind a walk. Each room has a private bath made of Japanese cypress wood. The restaurant is particularly acclaimed. Rooms from ¥15,750 per person (meals included).  edit

[edit] Stay safe

Tame deer amble around the island, harassing tourists for food. In the past, waffle-like wafers and pellets could be bought to feed them. However, a feeding ban is now in place, which has led to declining numbers of deer — and bold deer willing to root in around bags or backpacks for food (even while said bags are being worn). Further up on Mt. Misen, there are a few deer who have not had their (sharp) antlers removed, so visitors should be very careful around them.

A colony of monkeys live on Mt. Misen. There is a clearly (and hilariously) marked viewing point outside the ropeway station, but the monkeys are usually elsewhere. When they are hanging around by the station, standard monkey rules apply: don't stare, don't leave food around, and don't make sudden movements toward them. They're fairly accustomed to humans wandering around in their domain, though, and aren't likely to take much interest in you.

Some of the grounds are very uneven with sudden holes, so take care when walking. Be advised that, while people of most ages and fitness levels can handle the hike to Mt. Misen, it's also not a minor exertion, and there are no guide stations along the way.

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