Massawa International Airport (IATA: MSW), (ICAO: HHMS) is a newly built international airport with a greater capacity than Asmara. It is the hub of Nasair (local airline), the only airline as of March 2011 to use the airport. Nasair has regular international flights out of Massawa to Dubai, Doha, Khartoum, Jeddah and Nairobi. Domestically, Nasair serves the capital Asmara from Massawa. All other international flights to Eritrea (Lufthansa from Frankfurt, Egyptair from Cairo and Yemenia from Sanaa) land in Asmara's older and smaller airport.
Massawa is accessible from Asmara and the rest of inland Eritrea via the Asmara-Massawa highway. Buses run many times daily (before dusk) between Asmara and Massawa. Minibuses also run as soon as they are full (which takes very little time) between the Asmara bus station and Massawa. Regional buses run from the Massawa bus station and around the area a couple of times a week. But other than the long coastal two-day voyage to the other port city of Assab and to the inland via Asmara, there is not much to see beyond Massawa within the region. Massawa also connects to Asmara by narrow gauge rail, but it is not open to any regular service as it is more or less a museum railway with trains running on a steam engine and only open to chartered tours.
Massawa is divided by the mainland neighbourhoods of Gurgusum Beach, Hitumlo, Amaterre and Salinas, the island neighbourhoods of Tualud and oldtown Massawa as well as the Abdelkadir peninsula. The only interesting areas of the city for tourists are the two islands (Tualud and Oldtown) connected to each other and the mainland by causeways, and Gurgusum Beach which lies about 14 km north of the city towards the airport. The two islands are walkable, but to Gurgusum beach one needs to take a taxi/car.
Massawa's oldtown sits on an island (Batsi) that it shares with the country's busiest deep-sea port (not very busy), a free trade area and as the name indicates; an oldtown consisting of medieval Ottoman style coral buildings separated by narrow alleys as well as an ancient mosque. The island is connected to the mainland via another island called Tualud, both separated by a causeway. On Tualud you will find most "downtown" hotels like the Dahlak, Red Sea, Central, Corallo etc. Tualud also hosts St. Mary's catholic church and the famous tank monument.
From Tualud Island where all the main hotels are, there is another causeway to the mainland, where there isn't much at all besides the central bus station, Segalet open air cinema and some public administration and residential buildings of varying standard.
Massawa's surrounding islands (the Dahlak and nearby Green Island) offer excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities and have pristine beaches with turquoise waters. But going there requires chartering a boat or joining one of the pricy diving tour groups which tend to be rather costly and to date there are no cheap alternatives. There is a decompression chamber in Massawa if you were to have any problems and you should obviously not get on a flight or travel up to Asmara at 2600 meters above sea level too soon after diving. Give it a day or two (of staying on land). There aren't many extraordinary beaches in or around mainland Massawa or the bridge-connected islands (apart from the Green Island). Gurgusum beach which lies only 14 km north of town on the mainland is an average beach with adequate facilities.
The town itself comes to life "after dark" when temperatures cool down slightly. The oldtown becomes a bazaar of sorts with shops, bars, restaurants and brothels opening up to customers. Bring tankloads of sunscreen and a good pair of sunglasses because the Red Sea sun is merciless. You will not find good sunscreen in Eritrea, if at all it will be too expensive and/or expired. Also bring plenty of insect repellent and mosquito net to place above your bed, especially in the winter months (November to February). Although you may be taking anti-malaria treatment, there are other insect-borne diseases for which there is no prevention or treatment other than avoiding insect bites, such as Dengue fever. This is especially prevalent in the tropical climate zone along the Eritrean coast.
Buy tankloads of sunscreen before coming here. The Red Sea sun is merciless. There could be some sunscreen in a Massawa shop (maybe) but in that case it will still cost three times as much as wherever you're from and have expired three years prior. So just bring lots of it along with a good pair of sunglasses and insect-repellents and mosquito-net (bednet). The latter can be bought cheaply in Eritrea and its called "Lamse" (LAM-SUH) locally. There aren't much souvenirs to buy in Massawa which are legal to bring out or even ethical to trade in (corals, mother of pearl etc). But if you're staying in Eritrea for a longer while, presumably up in Asmara, your hosts will greatly appreciate a great basket of sea-salt from Massawa.
You obviously have to eat Red Sea fish while in Massawa. The best place to do that is either at the Dahlak Hotel (somewhat pricy but well worth it) or at the rustic streetside restaurant in oldtown Massawa (there is only one) where the day's catch is grilled Yemeni style in a fired up clay-oven and served along with little limes and a side order of thin flat-bread and dates soaked in butter and honey.
Downtown Massawa has a few airconditioned and moderately priced hotels on Tualud Island (none with beaches):