Lyon

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Place Bellecour seen from the hill of Fourvière
Place Bellecour seen from the hill of Fourvière

Lyon [1] is the second largest city in France, located in the Rhone-Alpes region, some 450 km south of Paris. Lyon is known as a gastronomic city with a vibrant cultural scene.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Lyon's Saint-Exupéry Airport [2] (old name: Satolas), some 25 km east of Lyon, is linked to the main cities of France and the world. The Satobus [3] service will take you by bus from the airport to central Lyon in 30-50 minutes and cost around 8.60€ (6.50€ if you are under 24). Taxis to Lyon from the airport cost around 75€.

[edit] By train

Lyon has four train stations:

  • St Paul - in the heart of the city, 5 mins from hotel de ville over the Saone. Serves regional destinations.
  • Perrache - One of the two main stations of Lyon serving national and regional destinations. It is only a short walk to Place Bellecour along an interesting pedestrian shopping street (Rue Victor Hugo).
  • Part-Dieu - The other main train station serving national and regional destinations. This station is close to a large shopping mall and is in the heart of Lyon's business center. It has good transportation links to the rest of the city by tram bus and metro.
  • Saint-Exupéry (the station is outside the city and serves the airport)

Lyon is linked by TGV (fast trains) to Paris (2 hours) and Marseille (2 hours).

[edit] By car

Lyon is a major automotive hub for central and southern France:

[edit] Get around

[edit] By bus, tram, subway or bicycle

Public bicycle service Vélo'v
Public bicycle service Vélo'v

Lyon's public transport, TCL, consists of an extensive network of buses, subway (4 lines, 38 stations) and tramway (3 lines, 62 stations). The metro is efficient, relatively inexpensive, and thus a way of easily moving around. A single ticket costs 1.60€ (a common ticket for bus, metro and tram, valid for 1 hour after first use, but no return), whereas a daily pass is for 4.40€. Group tickets are also available so contact the tourism office.

Lyon has also 2 cable-car lines. These are accessible from the Vieux Lyon metro station and provide access to the Roman theatres and Basilica respectively.

You can get a free print version of the last one in any tcl office you find in the main stations. Just ask !

Since May 2005, Lyon also has a public bicycle service which allows travellers, after registering a credit card, to pick up and drop cycles to and from points around the city. You may need a credit card (Visa/MC/French CB) to make use of the service. The prices are very cheap: 1 euro for the "velo'v" card, then 2 euros per hour of use, with the first half hour of each use free. Check that the bike you want is OK or you could have bad surprises. Note that the system only works with a European credit/debit card. Otherwise the transaction is aborted, no explanations given on the terminal.

[edit] By car

Traffic is dense. Avoid driving within the city if you can. The minimum age to rent a car is 21 and an additional charge may be required for drivers under 25 years old. There are car hire places at the major stations. Best to hire from Part-Dieu, as the subsequent navigation is much easier. For the city center, look for signs reading "Presqu'île".

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Landmarks

  • Theatres Romains de Fourviere, a Roman theater complex beside the Musée de la Civilisation gallo-romaine.
  • Tête d'Or Park, including zoo and botanical garden.
  • Basilique de Fourvière (church) , nice view of the city
  • Tour de Fourvière
  • Place Bellecour - Europe's largest completely clear public square.
  • Place des Terreaux

[edit] Museums and Galleries

  • Palais Saint-Pierre / Musée des Beaux Arts [4], open every day 10AM-6PM except Tu and public holidays, Fr open 10.30-6pm, partial closures 12PM-2.15PM (see website for details), ticket office closes 5.30pm, admission adults €6, reduced €4, under 18 and some others free.
  • Musée de la Résistance (museum of the Resistance during the Second Wold War): Often holds exhibitions (mostly photography). 14 avenue Berthelot, 69007 Lyon. Tel: 04 72 73 33 54, Fax: 04 72 73 32 98. Open 9AM-5:30PM. Closed on Mondays, Tuesdays and holidays. Fees: 3 €. Free for children under 18.
  • Musées des Arts Décoratifs and Musée des Tissus: 34 rue de la Charité 69002, Lyon. Tel: 04 78 38 42 00, Fax: 04 72 40 25 12, musees@lyon.cci.fr, [5]. Open 10AM-12PM and 2PM-5:30PM. Closed on Mondays and holidays. Fees (can also be used for the Musée des Tissus): Adults: 4.58 €. Groups (10 adults minimum) : 3.81 €. Students : 2.29 €. Free for children under 18.
  • Musée historique de Lyon et Musée de la Marionnette
  • Musée de l'Imprimerie: Visit it only if you're a printing specialist, the collection is important but it is presented in a totaly outdated way. To avoid. 13 rue de la Poulaillerie, 69002 Lyon. Tel: 04 78 37 65 98, Fax: 04 78 38 25 95. museeimp@lyon.asi.fr. Open W-Su 9:30AM-12PM and 2PM-6PM. Closed on holidays. Fees: 4 €, students in groups: 2 €.
  • Institut Lumière: 25 rue du Premier Film, 69008 Lyon. Tel: 04 78 78 18 95, [6]. Open from 11AM-6:30PM, Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25, and on most Mondays (except bank holiday Mondays). Fees: 6 € (adults) or 5 € (younger than 18 or students).
  • Musée d'Histoire naturelle: 28 Boulevard des Belges, Tel: 04 72 69 05 00, Fax: 04 78 94 62 25, [7]. Open W-Su 1PM-6PM. Fees: 3 €.
  • Musée d'Art contemporain
  • Musée de la Civilisation gallo-romaine The second largest museum in France, it has all kinds of things relating to Rhone-alps history. A free visit to the Roman theatres may be just as interesting for those not into the details.

[edit] Parks and Gardens

  • Parc des Hauteurs Little known park tucked behind Fourvière close to the large tower. Contains aerial adventure course, ski slope and fantastic views towards the Beaujolais.

[edit][add listing] Do

  • Get lost in the traboules. These intra-building passages link inner courtyards with the streets and are found mainly in "Vieux Lyon" (old Lyon) and on the Croix Rousse hill. They were first made for the use of the "canuts" (silk workers of the late 18th to mid 19th century) so that the pieces of fabric could be moved from workshop to workshop without being spoiled by rain. They also were used as hiding places during the German occupation by the resistance members. Certain traboules are not open to the public because of security measures, but the city has made a point of keeping the most beautiful ones open during daytime hours.
  • Visit the Old town (Vieux Lyon), which features well preserved medieval and renaissance buildings, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
  • Go on a guided tour of the Croix-Rousse or Vieux Lyon. English speaking guides. Info from the tourist office at Bellcour

[edit] Learn

Lyon is an important university center. French language courses are available at Inflexyon, Alliance Francaise, Lyon-Bleu, Ecole Interculturelle de Francais. If you look for an immersion programme, you can have a look at ESL schools groups Learn French in Lyon with ESL

[edit] Work

Money can be made by giving private English lessons. Most French are keen to speak English. There are some schools which accept non TEFL qualified teachers but obviously a qualification helps. Try Berlitz or Demos. Often a lot of hours and sometimes travelling for not a great reward. There are several anglophone pubs which rely on student servers. Speaking French to a reasonable level is a must, even though bar vocabulary is limited. There is an ANPE next to the Opera on Rue de la Republique. Just go in, you don't have to book and there are lots of job vacancies to be found. Also search for a shelf with black folders on it. They contain details of better paid jobs

[edit][add listing] Buy

'La Part-Dieu' is the biggest shopping mall in France.

Rue de la République, wide pedestrian street north of Bellecour

[edit][add listing] Eat

In the traditional bouchons lyonnais you can usually eat and drink at a good price. Restaurants have their menus with prices displayed outside. The region around Lyon is generally considered to have some of the best food in all of France. For vegetarians, though, the choice might be limited.

[edit] Budget

  • Chez Mounier: a traditional bouchon (restaurant) with good food for a very reasonable price: a complete menu for 10 euros. Located on the south-east street of the Place Bellecour.
  • Otherwise, kebab shops abound, all with the same price: 4 euros for a kebab, 3.50 for chicken or vegetarian. Look especially near Place des Terreaux (metro Hotel de Ville).
  • El Loco Latino. 15 minutes across the Rhone from Hotel de Ville. Latino bar with low budget food: the day menu is 7.50 euros and the empanada is 4 euros.
  • Wallace Whisky Bar. 5 minutes across the Saone from Hotel de Ville. Mixture of French & British food. Fish n chips, bacon & egg etc. Prices from 7 euros

[edit] Mid-range

  • Le Layon [8] - excellent French cuisine, situated in the center of the old-town, with a great terrace. Typical price 15 - 25 €. The grenouilles are fantastic.
  • Brasserie Georges, 30, cours de Verdun (Located behind Perarache Station), ☎ +33 (0)4 72565456, [9]. An exceptional traditional Brasserie, serving traditional food with an Alsatian leaning in a fine interior. A real Art Deco treat. Founded in 1836, with a tradition of high quality service. It also contains a brewery and bar and the interior is worth a look even if you don't want to eat. from 25 to 35 €.  edit

  • La Resto, 20, rue Mulet (Just off rue de la Republique). Very nice little restaurant with great Lyon food and very lovely decor. Very Reasonable wine prices as well" edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Le Nord - one of Paul Bocuse's 4 brasseries in Lyon, located in the 9eme arrondisement, near the shores of the Saone river. Exquisite meals from €35 onwards.
  • Auberge du Pont de Collonges : Paul Bocuse's restaurant, one of the most famous restaurant of France. 40 Quai de la Plage. Tel 04 72 42 90 90, Fax 04 72 27 85 87, [10]. From 100 € onward.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Lyon offers some nice nightlife. A good starting point is Place des Terreaux and then upwards towards the Croix Rousse. In the streets that climb the hill there are many nice places.

  • Albion, 12 rue Sainte Catherine (Place Terreau), [11]. Beer, whisky and rock. "The best pub quiz in Lyon" - Special Music Quiz once a mounth
  • Becs de Jazz nice jazz club open the week-end from 1AM with live jazz and great atmosphere.
  • Phoebus, 22 rue Pouteau, pub with nice live music (African, reggae).
  • L'Abreuvoir, rue de st catherine, just above Terreaux. There you can join some crazy French listening to crazy French music. Definitively an experience, though not everyone's cup of tea.
  • El Loco Latino, 32, rue Pasteur, next to the Guillotière metro station. A small but lively latin bar, open everyday untill 1 am.
  • Johnny Walsh's, near the Saint Georges Church, nice authentic Irish pub with good music and some live performances.
  • The New Albion, Rue St. Catherine. Scottish pub. Student friendly. Live music most weekends.
  • Wallace, Place Saint Paul, cool whisky bar with a wide range of drinks.
  • St James and The Smoking Dog near the Place Saint Paul.
  • L'Amsterdam, 21 Quai Romain Rolland, nice dutch pub.
  • Le Perroquet Bourré (The Drunk Parrot), 18 Rue Saint Catherine, cheap rhum, the inside is decorated as a pirate ship.

At the quai Albert Augagneur is another centre of Lyon nightlife. Along the Rhone river are several out of duty riverboats (péniches) that serve as nightclubs or bars.

  • Sirius, 21 quai Augagneur. Live events almost every day of the week. The week-ends party on two levels. Nice.
  • Q-Boat, 21 Quai Augagneur. Another boat, here the hype crowd will feel at home.
  • Marquise [12], Quai Augagneur. Here you get nice alternative hip-hop, retro soul and other nice stuff. Sometimes theatre performances.
  • River Side, 5 rue St Paul. This is one of the rare places where they play rock music in Lyon. Admission after midnight. Only open on week-ends and before holidays.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • Hotel Vaubecour, 28 rue Vaubecour (2nd arrondissement), ☎ 04 78 37 44 91, [13]. A very simple, but clean and friendly hotel with large rooms with two beds, TV, and washstand. Near Perrache train station and close to just about everything. Looked the same as always as of January 2008. Under €30.  edit

  • Auberge de Jeunesse de Vieux Lyon (youth hostel), [14]. Belongs to YHA (international youth hostels association). Bunk bed in a dorm plus breakfast for 13 euros (plus fee if not member of YHA). Take the metro to Vieux Lyon station then the funicular to Place des Minimes (otherwise a serious hike up a steep hill). Excellent views over city. Tiny kitchen, extremely limited rooms for couples/families. No telephone bookings. edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Hotel Victoria, 3, rue Delandine, Lyon 69002 (Behind Perrache Station opposite Brasserie George), ☎ 04.78.37.57.61 (, fax: 04.78.42.91.07), [15]. This place is unpretentious and satisfactory. Reasonable value accommodation in a handy location, with a friendly welcome. €45-55.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Hotel Sofitel Lyon Bellecour [16], 20, quai Gailleton (2nd arrondissement). Luxury hotel close to the famous Place Bellecour. Large number of meeting rooms for conventions. Phone: (+33)4/72412020.

[edit] Contact

Most of cybercafes and call shops are in the district of Guillotière, because of the large population of immigrants living there but you will also find cybercafes in the center.

[edit] Stay safe

Real security problems in the Lyon center are rare, but as in any big city, be on your guard. Pay attention to your surroundings, try not to go out at night alone, etc.

[edit] Cope

To cope in Lyon, one will be required to close your eyes pretty much the whole time, otherwise you will be scarred for life with what you see in this most unusual city of France. Better yet, how about you just avoid it altogether?

[edit] Get out

  • The car museum of Rochetaillée [17] has a very nice collection of modern and old cars. The main attraction of the museum is the armoured car of Adolf Hitler. Château Rochetaillée, 69270 Rochetaillée-sur-Saône, Tel: 04 78 22 18 80, Fax: 04 78 22 69 60. Open 9AM-7PM every day in July and August, 9AM-6PM the rest of the year. Closed on Christmas and New Year. Fees: Adults 5 €, free for children under 18.
  • Perouges is a small village at 30 minutes of Lyon. Its buildings all date to the middle ages and it's a popular week-end destination for people who live in Lyon.
  • The bird park of Villars-les-Dombes
  • Vienne and its international jazz festival.
  • The Swiss border and the city of Geneva are just over two hours away by train.
  • Annecy, the Venice de Savoie is about 2 hours away a and makes a nice daytrip.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!
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