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From Wikitravel

Lviv (also spelled L'viv and Львів; Polish: Lwów; German: Lemberg; Italian: Leopoli; French: Leopolis) is in Western Ukraine and used to be the Capital of East Galicia. The biggest city of the region and major Ukrainian cultural center. The historic city center is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

[edit] Understand

The city has a multicultural history. It was founded in 1256 and fell under Polish control in the 14th century. Poles, Jews, Ukrainians, Germans and others lived there together for centuries.

The Polish king John II Casimir founded the Lviv University in the 17th century and Lviv was by this time one of the most important cities in the Polish-Lituanian Commonwealth, along with Krakow, Warsaw, Gdansk and Vilnius.

In 1772 the city was taken by the Habsburgs and in Austrian times it was known under the name of Lemberg, the capital of Galicia. After the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, it was returned to Poland.

As result of World War II Stalin moved the Soviet frontier westward so Lviv became part of the USSR, as Lvov (still widely frequent, even locally). With the Ukrainian independence in 1991, the name was officialy changed to Lviv.

Lviv is located in the most Ukrainian region of Ukraine; as a Soviet province, most signs were put only in Ukrainian, and only a few also in Russian. Because of its Polish and Austro-Hungarian history, Lviv has a Central European flair in its architecture that make it one of the most beautiful cities in Eastern Europe.

Its tourist potential is yet undiscovered because infrastructure is rather undeveloped and most people don't speak any foreign languages except Polish, Russian and German. This is changing among young people, some of whom will speak at least a little bit of English. Nevertheless, visiting Lviv is very rewarding for the pioneer traveller, as life is extremely cheap here and the place has a truly authentic feeling, unlike places like Krakow or Prague, which are swamped with tourists.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Lviv has an international airport just 7km from the beautiful downtown. Lviv is served via direct international routes including flights from Vienna (Austrian Airlines), Frankfurt (Ukraine International Airlines), Warsaw (LOT Polish Airlines), Timisoara, Romania (Carpatair) and Munich (Lufthansa). Low cost airline Wizzair flies twice a week to Dortmund.

Important! Lufthansa and Wizzair-flights are not served from main terminal - go to small Terminal "3" at the right side of the main building!

It is relatively inexpensive to fly from Kyiv to Lviv, with multiple daily flights operated by Ukrainian International Airlines and Aerosvit. These carriers also operate flights to and from other major Ukrainian cities, although it is still more common to travel by train domestically as the overnight trains save you the cost of a hotel while providing you transporation. Return airfares from Kyiv range from as low as $50 (including taxes and fees), if booked more than a month in advance, to approximately $100. Tickets for air travel can be purchased online or via travel agents. Taxi from the airport to town (or visa-versa) should cost around 30UAH, depending on the time of day. Negotiate prior to departure.

See: Lviv Airport website. The airport is very basic as there is no currency exchange and toilets are only available after check-in. There is only one ATM, and it is located in the main arrival hall. The small restaurants right outside of the main building will be your best bet for food and locating clean toilets.

Arrival Advisory: Travel Insurance

You do not need to buy insurance at the airport. There is a little booth in arrivals with someone who may try to sell you insurance or demand to see yours if you say you have it. You do not need to purchase insurance from this person, nor show them any documentation. Ignore them.

[edit] By train

• The easiest way to get to L'viv from Western Europe is through Krakow (or Wroclaw/Katowice) in Poland. From there, you have several options.

• Take a train to Przemyśl near the Polish-Ukrainian border. It costs about 40 PLN and takes between 3 and 4 hours. From Przemysl you take a bus to the border ('granitsa' in Polish) for 2 PLN, walk through the checkpoint and take another bus (Marshrootka) to L'viv. When you exit the final border control, walk straight ahead and you will come out on to a street which cars use to cross back in to Poland. Follow this street up past the shops and money exchanges, and take your first left. About 50 meters down on the left hand side is the new bus terminal where buses run regularly to Lviv for approximately 15 UAH (2 USD). Get your ticket from the driver.

The total cost for this route is approximately 12 Euro and maybe less if you have a student card.

IMPORTANT UPDATE: Queues at the border crossings used be unpredictable and hellish, but since Schengen laws were enacted, smuggling has dropped dramatically and queues are virtually non-existent. If you do encounter a queue (occasionally tourists groups must go through 'manually') and are in a hurry, get the guards attention, explain your situation and they will more than likely let you go through immediately. Be polite! 30 minutes from Medyka to Sheheni (Шегині)by foot is now the norm.

• There is also a direct train from Krakow to L'viv once a day, plus one with a change. This costs 195 PLN as of the 3/3/2009 booking via Polrail Service. A sleeper berth is required on the train, as only sleeping cars are carried across the border to Ukraine. DO NOT pay a cash 'reservation charge' to the Ukrainian conductor on the second train. Ensure you have your reservations for the second train in your possession and fully identifiable.

• There are trains coming from throughout Ukraine, including multiple daily trains (including 3-4 overnight trains) from Kyiv. The timings can be inconvenient - one night train from Kyiv gets in at 4:20am, the one back to Kiev gets there at 7am - and hotels in Kyiv really like to book that pair of trains for their clients. For better options, check the timetables at poezda.net or poezda.org.ua and buy the ticket at any train station in Ukraine.

• Trains from Hungary and Slovakia come through Lviv, usually on their way to Kyiv. Train-fare from both countries is approx $80 per person for a bed in a sleeping car. On the MAV website the round-trip price from Budapest is quoted at €64.40, [[1]] but, when contacting the international rail office by phone in Budapest, the one-way fare was quoted at 12,600 Ft ($75/€50), however, when purchased at Keleti train station the price was reduced to roughly 11,700 Ft ($62/€44) (1.1.09). Make sure to bring enough food and water for at least 12 hours (15 hours from Budapest).

[edit] Travel Note: SMUGGLING

Smuggling is a fact of life between Eastern Poland and Western Ukraine. The harsh economic situation in these two respective regions forces many into the trade, involving people of all ages. You may witness individuals unscrewing panels and pulling out plastic wrapped cigarette cartons, and may even be asked to politely move to enable access to a hidden cavity. Similarly if you decide to use the toilet you may find it blocked with cartons of cigarettes and your seat may feel uncomfortable if someone's removed the soft filling and replaced it with cigarettes. The key here is to exercise your common sense. These people are only doing their 'job' and thus should be treated with respect. There is no need for alarm! In fact it can be fascinating watching just how many cigarettes a single train carriage can hold and later watching as everything is removed on arrival in the EU. Border guards may ask you if anyone has been smuggling but the best response is to claim that you were sleeping or pretend not to understand.

UPDATE: As of mid 2009, you are only able to take 2 packets (40 cigarettes) and maximum 1 litre of spirits or wine across the border into EU states!

UPDATE: 01.01.2010 - The German customs homepage states that import limits have been extended to 200 cigarettes AND 1 liter of spirits (above 22% alc.) OR 2 liters of alcohol (e.g. sparkling wine below 22% alc.) AND 4 liters of non sparkling wine AND 16 liters of beer (Valid only one time per travel and for travellers above 17 years old!!)

[edit] By car

From Poland: take the E40, this will end at the city center. Keep in mind that all formalities at the border take from one hour upwards. There will be a long line for trucks, which you can pass if you travel by car. Don't expect the border police to treat you respectfully, or speak any language other than Ukrainian or Russian. In fact, expect the very opposite regarding both.

Ukrainian roads are bad, and Ukrainian drivers have an aggressive driving style. When you drive into Lviv, make sure you have a good map because getting lost in this town is very easy.

Pay close attention to speed limits (which are often badly marked, with signs far off the road, covered with branches etc.), but the speeding fines are usually low if nothing else is wrong with your car. In towns, the speed limit is usually 60km/h (40mph). Speed limits on "nationals" (single carriageway countryside roads) is 90km/h (55mph). The poor average quality of the roads already acts as a speed checker. Speed limits on highways (motorways) is 110-120km/h (75mph).

Be aware that corruption is widespread among Ukrainian police. When you are stopped for speeding or other violations, officers might aggressively try and extract ridiculous sums of money from you (€100 and up), offering "reductions" if you pay on the spot (the proposed alternative being some unpleasant and more expensive way, all made up).

The highest actual legal fine in the Ukraine, however, is the equivalent of about $3. So if you're asked anything beyond that, demand a written ticket for you to pay later instead. Don't let them intimidate you. It's very useful to have an embassy phone number handy for these cases (you should NOT under any circumstances travel around Ukraine without your embassy/consulate number handy anyway). If you mention your embassy/consulate, they'll let you off the hook quicker than you know it. At any rate, write down the officers' badge numbers, rank, plate number of the police car, and notify the nearest embassy/consulate in detail, to help fight these corrupt practices.

[edit] By bus

There are daily buses from Polish cities: Warsaw, Przemyśl, Lublin, Wrocław. It is possible also to get there by bus from other European cities.

From Przemyśl there are 2 types of buses that regularly travel to L'viv. The first is the PKS (Polish Coach Buses) and the second is private buses.

The private buses are found just ouside of the train station on the opposite side from the main station. They head to the border when they are full, which takes about 20 minutes and travel to the border is about 15 minutes. The price is 2 PLN (June 2007). The bus drops you off at the foot way to the border. On the Ukraine side private buses can be taken to L'viv; these take from 2 to 3 hours, and can be found up the main road on the right. They price is around 20 UAH (June 2007); the buses are often packed and can be uncomfortable at times. It is an adventure. Prepare to be in a bus full of smugglers.

There is a daily night bus service provided by Eurobus from Krakow bus station to Lviv, departing at 21.50 from Krakow and supposed to arrive at 6.00 in Lviv (depending on delays at the border) [2]. The price is around 70 zlotys.

There is also a Euroline bus (but not every day) from Krakow, departing at 11:30 to Lwow, arriving at 21:10 [3].

[edit] Get around

Lviv has an extensive tram and mini-bus network.

• Mini-buses (1.75 UAH) are known as marshrutky and follow a set route, but without a fixed timetable or stops. To indicate a desire to board, extend one arm as the marshrutka approaches; simply ask the driver to stop when you would like to get off.
• Trams and trolleybuses cost 1 UAH(tickets for students are 0,5 UAH). You can purchase tickets from any news kiosk or from driver in tram. Ask for a "tramvainyi bilet". Keep in mind that if you are carrying a piece of luggage larger than a backpack you will need to purchase a second ticket for it. Once inside the tram, be sure to validate your ticket(s) by punching them in one of the metal punches mounted on the walls. An inspector may come around to check your ticket - these people do not wear uniorms but flash a little badge. It's interesting to note that mostly all of the drivers of the trams and ticket checkers are women.
• Taxis are available throughout the city, and the city center is swarming with them at night. When they aren't equipped with a meter you must agree on a price with the driver ahead of time. It's usually cheaper when taxi do have meter.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Churches

• Latin Cathedral
• St.George Cathedral
• Armenian Cathedral of 1363
• Dormition Cathedral (Orthodox)
• The Dominican Cathedral
• The Bernardine Monastery
• Jesuit Church
• Boim's Chapel - an architectural marvel all made of black stone

[edit] Landmarks

• Lychakivskiy Cemetery. There are about four hundred thousand people buried here, including Ukrainian heroes such as Ivan Franko; the park is enormous, and very pleasant to wander around on a network of variously-maintained paths. At the back of the cemetary are a moving series of recently-built war memorials, in the same style as Western World War One cemetaries, to the dead of the 1918-1921 Ukrainian civil wars.
• Union of Lublin mound (the High Castle); from there you can see another sandy mound, which you can also climb, and which has a cross devoted to the dead of the war in Afghanistan. From that mound you can walk around the whole central hill-park of the town.
• Market Square (Ploshcha Rynok). You can climb the tower of the town hall: go in via the main entrance, wander about until you see a sign 'вхид на вежу', then follow those signs up 103 steps to a ticket-office and up 305 more steps to the top of the tower. There's a great view of the Old Town, and this is clearly one of the romantic spots of the city: I saw a marriage-proposal there.
• The Shevchenko Monument, donated by members of the Argentine Ukrainian diaspora, and absolutely unmistakable in the centre of town; a sculpture of the writer, and a wave-shaped monument with Ukrainian folk-art motifs rising to his side. Sometimes seems to be used by locals as a climbing-wall, but I would advise foreigners against this.
• Lviv theater
• Lviv University (named after Ivan Franko)
• Lviv National Polytechnic University
• Railway Station

[edit] Museums

• Pharmacy Museum "Under the Black Eagle"
• Museum of Religion an interesting museum documenting both Jewish and Christian history of L'viv at one of L'viv's biggest and most beautiful churches.
• The L'viv Art Gallery divided into several departments the central of which is on display at Potoskiy Palace showing mainly Renaissance and Baroque European art (for Ukrainian art see National Musem). Nearby is the Palace of Arts where changing contemporary art exhibitions take place. Other interesting branches of the Lviv Gallery are the Museum of Ancient Books, Museum of Relics and Pinsel Museum (dedicated to the local Baroque wood carver).
• The Lviv Historical Museum divided into many departmants most of which are in the old town displaying archeology, history from medievil times up to the Ukrainian struggle for nationalism, as well as jewlery and armoury.
• The Museum of Ethnography and Crafts
• The Lviv National Museum The main building displays Ukrainian Art from the Middle Ages up to the 19th Century. Note that the L'viv Art Gallery mainly shows foreign art in its art collections so if you are more interested in Ukrainian art you should defenitly visit this museum.
• Open Air Museum of Folk Architecture, on the central hill about a half-hour walk from the Lychakivskiy Cemetery. This is a collection of wooden buildings from all over Western Ukraine, dismantled and reassembled here; the multi-tiered churches are the most spectacular buildings, and are all still working churches.
• Natural History Museum
• The History of Printing Mseum
• Museum of Metrology
• Panchyshyn Museum of the History of Medicine
• Museum of Embroidered Icons
• Brewery Museum, renovated in 2009, entrance fee 15 UAH.
• Arsenal Museum Weapons and armour from medieval times to the beginning of 20th century.

[edit][add listing] Do

• Visit the Bania, a Russian style sauna for men and women (non-communal). There are a few located in L'viv and well worth the trip. The experience can be mildly confronting for the prudish Westerner, as all activities are conducted in the nude but don't worry, it is a highly civilized environment.

• S. Krushelnytska Opera House, Svobody Ave. In the very heart of L'viv the historic opera house offers regular performances of various operas and ballets. Tickets can be purchased at the theatre cashier ("Kaca") ranging in price from 50UAH to 80UAH; a schedule of events is located at the entrance of the theatre and is available online. Even if opera and ballet is not your cup of tea, a night at the theatre is worthwhile, at the very least, to enjoy this spectacular venue.
• Gutsulsky Dvir (Lviv restaurant), [4]. (36 Schyretska str.) is one of the most picturesque ethnic restaurants in the sity. Ukrainian ethnic cuisine, great atmosphere of wooden restaurant with lots of trees around is a mast to visit while staying in L'viv.  edit

[edit] Learn

[edit] Work

[edit][add listing] Buy

The Ukrainian currency is known as the hryvnia (you may also hear the pronunciation "grivna"). It was introduced in 1996. The exchange did hover around 5 UAH to 1 USD, but due to the global economic downturn has dropped to between 7.5 and 8 UAH to 1 USD.

Both ATMs (known as "bankomats") and currency exchanges ("obmin valyuti") are ubiquitous throughout Lviv, particularly in the city center. Most, but not all, ATMs will accept Visa and Mastercard. Currency exchanges will often only accept foreign currency in pristine condition. Travellers' checks are not very useful in Lviv; however, there are still a few hotels and banks that will cash them for you.

Do not expect to be able to use a credit card anywhere except upscale stores, hotels and perhaps some restaurants. Hostels will certainly not take credit cards.

You should be aware that attempting to pay for something inexpensive with a large denomination (50 UAH and above) will often at the very least annoy the shopkeeper; salespeople may even refuse to sell to you if you do not have any smaller denominations. Grocery stores and other high-volume shops are an exception to this rule.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Budget

Life in L'viv is very very cheap, it's not difficult to find a place where you can have a full meal for 2 euros. The challenge is rather trying to order if you don't speak Ukrainian.

• Olga Cafe, behind Trembita music store on Kopernika is hard to find but harder to beat. Superb Borshch.

• Rodzinka, near the Saharova street. It's cafe with very cheap price and very pleasure personal.

• Puzata Hata, On Sichovykh Striltsiv. Offers a cheap and hearty Ukrainian smorgasboard. This cafeteria style eatery offers an wonderful selection of traditional Ukrainian food mixed with some other cultural food found around the area.

• Talalchik, on Sichovykh Striltsiv. Does a good, spicy chicken wrap for $3.

• Acropolis Tavern, just off Rynok Square. A Greek casual diner that has authentic dishes such as Gyros and Souvlaki for $3. The staff speak English and may well start dancing, in traditional style, given any amount of encouragement.

• Idalnia # 1 Gurman (Gourmet), on 7, Dorshenka. The best "price/quality" in the city!

We are cooking only from Ukrainian products!

[edit] Mid-range

• Kupol One of Lviv's most stylish and sophisticated dining out options, Kupol has a touch of understated Habsburgh grandeur. Lonely Planet editor's choice. Homestyle quality for affordable prices. Located at 37 Chaikovskogo Str. (Lviv). Tel.: +38-032-2614454.

• Kavkaz (or Kaukaz) serves up exquisite Georgian cuisine with a charming atmosphere on Zelena street. The harcho soup and fig salad will make you forget any and all past romantic disappointments.

• Cafe 1, just off Rynok Square, in a sort of alley way, adjacent to a large, old cathedral. A very cosy cafe / casual dining restaurant that offers a varied range of modern cuisine. It has a warm atmosphere with non-smoking, and smoking, areas plus friendly and thoughtful staff.

• Tsukerna, on pr. Staroevraiski. Does very good Viennese-style cake and coffee.

• Pid Kelpsydroyu (Under a water clock). 5, Armenian Str. Beautiful place and tasty traditional meals. Also, includes art gallery 'Dzyga'. In the spirit of the great European art salons of the past Dzyga Cultral Centre also offers food for the body as well as food for the mind and soul. The café is easy enough to spot. Just in front of the entrance to the Dzyga Cultural Centre, at the end of Vir’menska St. you’ll see about 15 large tables with patio umbrellas crowding the street. You’ll also see the city’s sophisticated set sipping Under Clepsydra’s famous forest tea, with cigarette smoke curling languidly from their ashtrays.

Under Clepsydra actually has three sections. An indoor café/restaurant inspired by the Parisian brassarie’s of the left bank. There is both smoking and non-smoking sections, playing classic French jazz and folk music. Venture upstairs past the funky wood and brass bathrooms and you’ll find the more popular late-night section of the establishment. Ever since Dzyga’s alternative club Lyalka closed it’s doors a year ago, this bar has provided shelter for the thirsty denizens of cool.

But what really sets Dzyga apart from other Lviv hangouts is the menu. Vegetarian restaurants in Lviv are, well, non-existent, but Under Clepsydra has a vegetarian menu that is sure to please. Okay…the first item is fish, but you’ll also find a collection of fresh, meat-free dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. Being a Vegetarian in Lviv isn’t easy, but at Under Clepsydra it can be pretty affordable. Potato and mushroom Crepes clock in at under 2 Euro, and fresh soups and salads are anywhere between 1-2 Euros. The best part: The menu’s are in English.

The carnivorous set has plenty of delectable options as well. Few dishes run more than 5 Euros, and entrees include duck, pork, grilled chicken, smoked salmon. Get there early enough and try their very affordable breakfast before a long day of seein’ the sights.

New York Street Pizza[5] located at 5, Sichovys Striltciv Str, 51, Volodymyra Velykogo Str, 37, Patona Str, 4, Stefanyka Str, 36, Generala Chuprynky Str, 5, Tershakovtciv Str, 59, Grushevskogo Str, 1, Valova Str, 51, Chervonoi Kalyny pr, 2, Sv. Teodora pl . Tasty pizza, soups, salats, caces and beverages.

[edit] Splurge

• The Wiener Kaffeehaus, on the main square on the right-hand side if you are facing the Opera House. This place has menus in English, English-speaking staff and a very nice atmosphere. A main course is around 3 to 4 euros, a three-course meal 6 or 7. The Wiener Schnitzel is great, so are all the soups, the breakfasts, the potato pancakes and the Apfelstrudel.

• Amadeus has a broad European and Ukrainian menu in a 5 star environment with 4 star food and 2.5 star prices.

• Veronica, on Prospect Svobody is both a French style cafe (upstairs) and very stylish restaurant downstairs.

• Kavkas, on Zielena. Real Georgian feasts for a reasonable price.

[edit][add listing] Drink

The club scene in L'viv is thriving; with many options ranging from the cavernous Club Metro to the intimate and upmarket Zanzibar. There are usually entry charges but drink prices more than make up for this. In most clubs you are able to buy bottles of vodka (10 Euro) and simply chill at a table all evening.

• Club Metro, Zelena St. 14, ☎ +38 (032) 242-07-88, [6]. Located on the outskirts of the centre of town, Metro isn’t the easiest place to spot during the day, but at night, just follow the hordes of fabulously dressed young people as they make their way to Lviv’s trendiest nightclub. But make no mistake, Metro isn’t just one of the best discos in town -- it’s three!
  
  This cavernous Lviv club reveals a new surprise around every corner. Entrance will probably set you back about 3 Euro and once inside the first thing you’ll see is Metro’s large disco. Here trendy young students bounce happily to mostly top 40 and pop music. A raised platform in the centre of the dance floor features male and female go-go dancers (and any brave souls who decide to join them on strange). A long bar opposite the stage provides spirits of all kinds at decent prices. Local beers, vodka and champagne are all offered by the friendly (mostly) English speaking staff. If it’s your first time at Metro, we suggest being a VIP for a night. The raised VIP section gives a great view of the entire dance floor and is available to anyone as long as they promise to ring up a reasonable bill. Not a hard thing to do with bottle service and even hookahs available for VIP guests.
  
  For a change of pace, head downstairs where you’ll find two more bars. One serves the techno and house room where friendly local hipsters grind and shake to a pumping beat. The other bar serves the lounge, private rooms and the hip hop dance floor where the freshest tracks from the United States and the UK lend the crowd little swagger.
  To cool off from all of the dancing, hit the giant upstairs patio with its heat lamps during winter and umbrellas for those rainy Lviv nights. When you’re all done, grab your jacket from the free coat check, head outside, say goodbye to your new friends and try to figure out how it got light out so quickly.  edit

• Millennium Club (Міленіум), 2 Chornovola Av., ☎ +38 (032) 240 35 91, [7]. Just a few blocks from the centre of the city Millennium Club is where Lviv’s elite go to kick up their heels after a busy day of work. This gigantic complex is Lviv nightlife at its finest. Featuring the restaurant "Tequila Bum" a casino, a state-of-the-art movie theatre, billiards and video games, it has something for everyone. But these attractions are just the warm-up for the main event. As the largest disco in Western Ukraine, Millennium is where you’ll find the city’s beautiful people getting sweaty on a massive dance floor until early the next morning.
  
  The entrance fee is a little steep compared to other local bars, but it rarely tops 5 Euro. Once inside, grab a table and sit back as chilled bottles of this country’s finest vodka is delivered to your table as part of Millennium’s legendary bottle service. If you’re the kind of person who likes to keep moving, sidle up to any of Millennium Club’s four expansive cocktail bars for a beer, mixed drink or shot.
  
  Thanks to its older more sophisticated clientele the music at Millennium Club is some of the best in the country. DJs from all over Eastern Europe come to Millennium to spin house, retro, electro and rock tunes. Ask in advance who’ll be playing so you’ll know what to expect. Speaking of what to expect, sophisticated patrons also means a dress code. Guys should be prepared to wear dress shoes, pressed slacks and a dress shirt. Ladies, Lviv girls are some of the most stylish in the world, so dress like you mean it. You might get into the club in your street clothes -- but you’ll feel out of place.  edit

• Picasso (Пікассо), 88 Zelena St., ☎ +38 (032) 275 32 72, [8]. If Metro and Millennium Club in Lviv cater to the hard partying type, Picasso aims to be a relaxed alternative to these venues. Picasso is located just up the road from Metro on Zelena St. in a large corner building. Getting in can be a little confusing. The friendly door staff will kindly point you to a door at the side of the building. Here you pay your entrance fee, usually between 3 and 5 Euros, and give you a ticket. Take that ticket back to the doorman, and in you go.
  
  The first thing you’ll notice once inside is just what made this place legendary when it opened as Lviv’s first hot spot. It features a giant vaulted ceiling with a ring of balconies surrounding the venue. Really, it looks more like a church than a club. At the far end is a massive stage, and below that, a roomy dance floor, often packed with a writhing mass of some of this city’s older student crowd. Beers here run a little bit more than your standard club, but their selection caters to a more refined pallet.
  
  The music and dress code here are also a bit more relaxed. Tunes range from disco to rock, with a little techno and house thrown in. One distinguishing feature of the music is volume; not cranked so loud you can’t hear yourself think, but not a library either. There is free coat check, and most patrons are dressed casually, which in Lviv means like models on their day off. The stellar lighting also makes this place a popular venue for concerts. As Lviv does not currently have a large music venue, many acts play Picasso if they can secure a night. The club also hosts private parties and events, so call ahead to make sure you can get in that night  edit

• Pozitiff, 14 Zelena St., ☎ +38 (032) 294 90 5, [9]. If you’ve been to Metro Club you may have noticed a long line of eager locals forming on a nearby staircase of an Internet café. It may seem strange at first glance, but insiders know that this stylish crew has the right idea. They are trying to gain access to Pozitiff -- Lviv’s trendiest lounge.
  
  This place is not easy to get into, and there are no guarantees that your money, passport or even begging can ensure you gain entrance. It’s all the bouncers call. Your best bet is to arrive with a small group of the most attractive people you can find. At this point the door man will either let you in, or not. If he does you’ll have negotiate an entrance fee. This cover charge usually depends on how cool and attractive your group is: The better-looking, the lower the fee. Expect to pay close to 6 Euros for entrance.
  
  Once inside your senses are bombarded with sounds of local DJs spinning lounge appropriate tunes, and the smell of cocktails. As entrance is so difficult, some patrons make the most of their trial, floating through the bar mingling, chatting and flirting. Others, displaying the icy confidence that got them in in the first place simply recline in their booth and radiate cool.
  No matter how you choose to play this one, the drinks are reasonably priced, you’ll find enough friendly professionals to chat with and if you need to check your email, the Internet café section remains operational even into the wee hours of a rocking party.  edit

• Zanzibar Cool, funky

• Leroy Upmarket, mature crowd

• Fashion Club Bizarre neuvo riche.

Great pubs and bars abound in L'viv but they can be hard to find, do your research as many are tired dens of misery.

• Robert Doms Beer House While not exactly in the centre of town, Robert Doms Pub is a must visit venue for any visitor to Lviv. Follow the tree lined street of Kleparivska as it winds up and down hills until you reach the easy to spot entrance of this totally original beer hall and concert venue. It’s attached to the Lvivske Brewery. Depending on the nights festivities you may have to pay a small cover charge, but it’s well worth it, as early evening acts often include international Jazz bands, and late evening events often fall into the feverish dance music category.

Descend a flight of stairs past a charming little merchandise stand to the cavernous first room. Sit down at a long beer garten style table and order a giant stein of the Lvivske beer. The name, Robert Doms comes from the man who founded the brewery in 1715 (also the name of their signature brew). The food here is great, so even if you’ve already eaten, it’s suggested you order a salty snack from their German-style menu to accompany the delicious beer.

The pub is often open late, so make an evening here. The underground location and stone walls give Robert Doms Beer House great acoustics and an intimate feel. Or, if you’re not in the mood for music, head to the ajoining Austrian style pub room. Plush, wooden and well lit, this is a great place to watch a game of football with friends as the giant TV at the end of the room has a habit of sucking in peoples attention.

• Kumpel Mini-brewery and a beer restauraunt on Mytna square
• Hasova Lyampa (Kerosene Lamp) Unlike many of the best restaurants in Lviv, The Gas Lamp is quite easy to find. Located a couple blocks up Virmenska St. You’ll most likely see a man dressed in Olde Tyme regalia pacing in front of the entrance, beckoning people inside. If he’s not there another more static greeter awaits, in the form of a metal statue sitting at a desk with a… you guessed it, lit gas lamp.

Once inside you’ll find a spiral staircase ascending up three flights of dining space. Each floor is cozy, candle lit, and decorated with classic gas lamps. Gas Lamp also has one of Lviv’s best patios, in the form of their rooftop dining section. With a view of the Armenian Church steeple is the perfect place to spend a warm summers evening.

Sadly the menu’s are not in English, but the staff are friendly and will take their time to help get your order correct. While the entrees at Gas Lamp are your standard fare, the snacks that do with beer are real standouts. They are an extra big hit with the sophisticated post-work clientele who undoubtedly come here to mingle and complain about their bosses. Try the seasoned croutons, chips and a variety of dipping sauces they’re the perfect accompaniment for their wide selection of cold local brews.

• Kult Cool underground bar

• Kriyivka ('Bunker' in Ukrainian) You repeat the words over and over in your head as you wander through the main square. “Slava Ukrainie, slava Ukrainie, slava Ukrainie,” You repeat. The phrase means, ‘glory to Ukraine,’ and it’s your ticket to this city’s best kept entertainment secret -- an underground unmarked bar called Kryivka.

Kryivka basically means hiding place in Ukrainian and they’re not kidding. But when you do finally find it, state the password to a man toting a prop vintage machine gun, receive your shot of authentic Ukrainian medivuka, and descend the stairs into the cozy wooden dining room you’ll be glad you took the time to find it. This Ukrainian independence themed bar is decorated with artifacts from Ukraine’s valiant struggle to stay autonomous -- with guns, maps and posters lining the walls. You’ll also notice the names of dishes on the English menu harken back to a military tradition stretching back to the Austrian Empire. Culinary highlights include a half-metre long sausage, pickles soaked in honey and some of the most savory vereniky in Lviv.

There is also a bit of theatre during a dinner at Kryivka. One element of Ukrainian nationalism is the constant struggle against Russian imperialism. If you’re lucky, a “Russian spy” may have snuck in to the restaurant during dinner, and the brave staff will turn off the lights, grab a flashlight, root out this spy and serve him a healthy portion of justice. Once the intruder has been detached, celebratory live music erupts in the basement venue and locals burst into traditional songs of freedom. For the food, and for the fun, Kryivka is a can’t miss restaurant in Lviv.

• Blue Bottle Intimate, medieval

• Pub Filharmonia above Kult, very cool underground feel.

• FRANZ JOSEF The twighlight zone. 24 hour outdoor freak show. See the local intelligentsia acting rather unintelligent.

• Dublin Irish Pub Irish pub with good food, English menu. Staff no English though! While not the easiest place to find in Lviv this heavily promoted Irish style pub is both a favourite with locals as well as ex-pat patrons of the nearby Kosmonaut Hostel. You can find Dublin pub in the busy courtyard just off Doroshenka St. The name is written in Cyrillic as well as Latin, so have no fears there.

Dublin does a good job of not packing the tables in too tightly, you after you’ve grabbed a seat, don’t be shy to get up and wander around a little bit with a pint of any of their host of international beers in hand.

If you happen to be hungry, you’ll be glad to know that the menu is in English (though the staff don’t speak English), and features many of the pub favourites you would expect at home. However, you’ll find that many of these dishes have been modified slightly as local ingredients are substituted for traditional ones. Most dishes are reasonably priced and quite tasty. If you are feeling homesick, this is a good cure. If football is your thing, Dublin Pub spares no expense. If there is a game on, anywhere in the world, chances are Dublin Pub will be showing it live. However, if your side happens to be playing at the same time as any of Ukraine’s club, or national teams you might want swallow your pride and join in, as you’re not likely to find anyone here who will permit you to change the channel.

• Korzo Irish Pub Though it may sometimes seem like it, not every bar or restaurant in Lviv has some kind of theme or hook, and Korzo Pub is one of these places. Located in the narrow Brativ Rohatinskiv street just off the main Rynok, Korzo is as close to your local pub as you’ll find in Lviv. Nothing too fancy here, just an oak bar, brass taps and well worn tables that have eavesdropped on hundreds of conversations, arguments and romantic encounters.

The menu is actually one of the more familiar ones in the city, so if you are looking for a little taste of home this is probably your best bet. Korzo also has a great selection of international spirits, so if you’re the kind of person who needs a shot of tequila to get the night going, this is your place. As the beer flows, you might want to try the fish soup, hearty and robust, locals say it is the perfect ballast to prevent a hangover the next morning. If quenching your thirst on a sunny afternoon of exploring is your goal, Korzo has just installed on of Lviv’s largest patios. With plenty of tables and shelter from the glorious sunshine, or menacing thunderstorm (it’s really either, or, in this city) the patio makes for pure people watching pleasure.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

L'viv has a variety of hotels, hostels and apartments to suit all budgets and needs.

• Host Families Association (HOFA), [10]. Based in St. Petersburg, HOFA will find you accommodations with an English-speaking host family. From €19..  edit

[edit] Budget

The hostel scene is quite new in L'viv so be sure to check reviews of hostels using well known booking agents and forums.

• The Kosmonaut Hostel, Sichovykh Striltsiv 8/5 (2 km from train station, in the city centre), ☎ +380322601602 (info@thekosmonaut.com), [11]. 38 beds, 24 hour reception, English speaking staff. Free Internet, Wi-Fi, breakfast, tea, coffee, washing machine, rated the Best Hostel in Ukraine by Hostelworld.com 2008. For good reason too. With a central location, hot powerful showers and a friendly common room perfect for meeting other travellers, this hostel has it all. Staff are very helpful. From €8(21/5/2009).  edit

• Old Ukrainian Home Hostel, 12 Lepkogo (Лепкого) street, ☎ +380322727611 (olduahostel@gmail.com), [12]. checkout: 11:00. Located in the centre of the city near the Lviv National University. Chamber hostel -- 20 beds, English, Spanish, Russian speaking staff, Free internet ,Wi-Fi, touristic information, free maps, breakfast, coffee & tea, linens & towels included , laundry. Old ukrainian interior style, excellent reviews. From € 6,99..  edit

• Rynok Square Apartment, 16 Rynok Square (Right on the main Old Town square across from main entrance to Lviv Town Hall), (slav@lvivecotour.com), [13]. checkin: flexible; checkout: flexible. Modern, clean and most central, seconds from Lviv's cafes and most attractions. Includes king size double bed and additional single bed optional. Free tea, coffee, kitchen self catering, washing machine and powder, microwave, TV, bedding, towels. Minimum stay 2 nights. Discounts for stays over 3 nights. Friendly owner speaks English, Polish, Ukrainian, can arrange transfers within Ukraine and Poland. €20 per person.  edit

• Hotel Lviv. Just off the main strip, two blocks north of the Opera. Inexpensive, no-frills, unfriendly, mainly 1-2 person rooms, many with nice views of Lviv center - pick the ones facing the street (obviously). There is also a restaurant/bar and a currency exchange kiosk inside the lobby.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Hotel Volter, Lipinskogo 60a, ☎ +380 32 294 88 88, [14]. $70-$250..  edit

• Hotel Dnister (Дністер), Mateyka st. 6, ☎ +380 32 297 43 1, [15]. $80-$260.  edit

• Hotel NTON, Shevchenka 154b, ☎ +380 32 233 71 72, [16]. $60-$230.  edit

• Hotel Eney (Еней), Shimzeriv st. 2, ☎ +380 322 768 799 (email eney@mail.lviv.ua), [17]. €69-187.  edit

• Hotel George (Жорж), Pl. Mickiewicz 1, ☎ +380 322 725 952, [18]. Only some rooms have private bathrooms (from $73). $38-$121.  edit

• Wien Hotel (Відень Готел), Pl. Svobody 12, ☎ +380 32 244 43 14 (wienhotel@mail.lviv.ua), [19]. $70-$140 (breakfast included).  edit

• Lion's Castle Hotel (Готель Замок Лева), Glinka str. 7, ☎ +380 (32) 297-15-63 (info@lioncastle.lviv.ua), [20]. $80-$160 (breakfast included).  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Opera Leopolis (Готель Леополіс), Teatralna Str. 17. Prestigious Leopolis Hotel is a luxurious boutique hotel in the heart of the city center.  edit

• Grand Hotel (Гранд Готель), pl. Svobody 13, ☎ +380 322 724 042 (grand@ghgroup.com.ua), [21]. Absolutely central - right in front of the Teras Shevchenko statue. $126-$360 (breakfast included).  edit

• Opera Hotel (Готель Опера), Pl. Svobody 45, ☎ +380 32 225 90 00 (reception@hotel-opera.lviv.ua), [22]. $96-$336 (breakfast included).  edit

[edit] Contact

The dialing code for Lviv is +380 32(2). The telephone system was recently modified; thus, to dial 6-digit numbers, use the city prefix 322, but for 7-digit numbers, use only 32.

All calls to and from cell phones are treated as long distance calls. Thus, you must dial an 8 followed by the city/mobile prefix, followed by the phone number. Some frequent mobile prefixes are 050, 067, 066, 096, and 097. The main mobile operators are Kyivstar, Beeline, and UMC. You can buy a SIM card or a balance replenishment card at many stores throughout Lviv.

Internet cafes are plentiful. Centrally located is Chorny Media on Krova Lipa.

[edit] Stay safe

Ukrainian cities are not as dangerous as they may seem, though a bit more precaution is required. Common tricks include impersonating a police officer. In doubt ask an officer or tell him you're not following him. The first thing they try is to get you out of the tourists places in to areas where they can 'acquire' a fine. Openly robbing you or pick-pocketing happens less as the risks are bigger.

[edit] Cope

It is essential to learn some Ukrainian before visiting, or at the very least, learn the Cyrillic alphabet. Everyone can also read, speak and write in Russian and aren't so prickly about it, although they'd apreciate that you learn a few basic phrases in Ukrainian as well. Learn the Cyrillic alphabet (both the Russian and Ukrainian versions) way in advance until you can write words with perfection, as many do not know the Latin alphabet. German and, especially, Polish (as Lvov used to part of Poland) is spoken well among people with mature memories of the interwar era.

People selling you tickets at the train station will most likely not speak anything other than Ukrainian or Russian and may have no patience nor sympathy for you. (Neither will the people waiting behind you in line). If you speak Polish then surviving in Lviv shouldn't be a problem, as many people understand some Polish. Some sales people will not know the Latin alphabet, so make sure to carry a small note with your name written in Cyrillic! Queues in Ukraine tend to be a chaotic mess, especially at stations. Assert your place with an elbow and mean stare, because everyone else will, including the fifteen babushki pushing you to the side. Make sure you get in the line for foreigners when you want to buy train tickets. No, the cashier will NOT speak English, but if you know the details of the train you want, just write them down! But if you go to a different line they'll just tell you to go to the foreigner's line, and then you will have wasted a lot of time waiting for nothing.

[edit] Get out

There are many possible day trips from Lviv. Some options include nearby monasteries Krekhiv and Univ; the beautiful Carpathian mountains and their accompanying ski resorts are also not far.

For people who want to head south to Transylvania, this is best done jumping buses to Chernivtsi (a bumpy 6,5 hrs ride). Near Chernivtsi, you can visit the lovely Kamyanets-Podilsky with its ancient castle. To Suceava, the bus takes around 4 hours with border formalities. From Suceava to Bacau and finally to Brasov, each bus will take about 4 hours on very bumpy roads.

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