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From Wikitravel

Luang Namtha [1] (Louangnamtha, Luang Nam Tha) is the largest city in Luang Namtha Province, northern Laos. It lies on the banks of the Nam Tha river, and the meaning of the name is "The area (luang) around the Tha river (nam Tha)".

[edit] Understand

Best known as a stopover point on the backpacker trail from (1) China to Laos and (2) as an alternative to the long and cramped boat journey between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang, Luang Namtha has become increasingly popular as a starting point for hill tribe treks (especially those into the Luang NamTha NPA - National Protected Area). While short on jaw dropping sights, it's a compact and fairly pleasant little town, albeit one divided in two distinct parts: the "old" or original town near the airport (bombed out in the 1970's war), and the "new" or replacement town to the north where the trekking companies and most guesthouses can be found. The two are about 6 km apart. The "old" town sits aside Highway 3 - the modernised route from China to Thailand. The "new" town is located along highway 17A which serves to connect Muang Sing.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Luang Namtha Airport (IATA: LXG) has Lao Airlines flights to/from Vientiane 4x/week (1 hour, full fare US$97). As of 2009, there are no longer any services to Huay Xai or Luang Prabang, but the airport was renovated in 2008, with a 1600m paved runway, and there are even plans to start fielding international flights. Shared tuk-tuks wait outside for arriving flights and will take you to anywhere in town for 10,000 kip.

[edit] By road

[edit] To/from China

From Mengla (China) via Boten it will cost you 46 RMB for a bus to Luang Namtha. The trip takes 4-6 hours, depending mostly on the length of the border crossing. Oddly, the same bus back only costs 45,000 kip(around 37 RMB).

If going to China, you will need to have arranged your visa in advance (nearest embassy/consulate is in Vientiane). The daily bus leaves around 8 AM, and you'll want to exchange/use up all your kip before you head off, as exchange rates at the border are terrible.

There is now (nov 2009) also a direct bus from Jing hong to Luang Namtha. From bus station nr 1 at 10.40 AM; cost is RMB 70. It takes about 8 hours.

[edit] Within Laos

The bus station for destinations inside the province is located on the main road west of the main guesthouse strip. The old bus station across from the market has now been demolished to make way for a 5-star hotel, and the main bus station for destinations further afield is now inconveniently located 10km out of town. A tuk-tuk should cost about 10,000 Kip per person or 20,000 if you're alone.

Buses for Huay Xai, on the Mekong River at the Thai border, leave at 9am and 1pm and cost 50,000 Kip. Tickets can be bought from 7:30, and the journey takes only four hours now, due to improved road conditions, so that you can make it into Thailand on the same day. If you want to be assured of a seat, tickets can be bought in town the day before at the travel agent across from Green Discovery Treks for 75,000 Kip including tuk-tuk to the bus station. Like all bus travel in Laos, tickets bought at the bus station always have priority as for seating. The tuk-tuk leaves the travel agent at 8am. Alternatively, you can hire a minibus and ride comfortably Luang Namtha in 3-4 hours for 120,000 kip/person.

Trips to Luang Prabang take 8-12 hours--depending on road conditions-- and cost 75,000 Kip for the large bus (55 seat version) [leaves at 9:30am], 95,000 Kip for minivan (11 seater) [leaves at around 8.30am when everyone gets onboard] and 100,000 Kip for the (supposedly faster) VIP bus (22 seat version) [if running, at both 9:00am & 2:30pm]. While the 10,000 Kip fare from the 'new' bus station to the main town centre appears non-negotiable, the fare from the town centre to the 'new' bus station can be negotiated for multiple pax. The bus station booking office (located at the 'new' bus station) sells tickets for tomorrow's journey from this afternoon. In Laos, it is wise to pre-purchase tickets to be more sure of a seat. The roads from Luang Namtha to Luang Prabang are in poor to fair shape with numerous potholes along the way. The bus stops at the Oudomxay bus station for lunch. Most bus drivers stop every couple of hours to check brakes, etc. And, at these times pax can also find a bush for bladder relief. The journey is not for the faint-hearted during the rainy season with the bus squeezing and weaving across roads collapsed due to the landslides. In parts, the scenery is fantastic. Like all buses in Laos, the earlier you arrive, the better choice of seat [try for at least 1 hour before] - the alternative is sitting on a plastic stool in the aisle for hours on end, or not being let on. While the Lao accept your bag on a seat as 'taken', Chinese do not!

Buses from Muang Xay (Oudomxay) cost 35,000 kip, take about four hours and leave daily at 8:30, 11:30 and 15:00.

Sawngthaew leaves for Muang Sing from the small bus station in town, 20,000 Kip, one to two hours, until 3 PM.

[edit] By boat

It is possible to take a boat up the Tha River all the way from Huay Xai, but there is no scheduled service and only occasional cargo ships, so odds are high that you'll have to charter. From Luang Namtha, Boat Landing Guest House/Green Discovery can try to arrange boats, at an estimated (but highly variable) prices of US$168 for a boat that can handle 4-10 passengers. The trip takes two days and requires overnighting in a village along the day. In the dry season, the northern parts of the river (towards Luang Namtha) may not be navigable.

[edit] Get around

The two halves of Luang Namtha can be individually easily covered on foot, but you'll want to hop on a tuk-tuk (10000 kip/person) for going to the airport, the bus station or crossing over between the two.

You can get a good map of the city at K.N.T internet for 3000 kip and some guesthouse will have a copy of it for free for guests.

You can rent really good mountain-bikes at a shop along the main road for 15000 kip per day or 3000 kip per hour.

Small semi-auto motorbikes (eg. Honda Dream copies) are now readily available (esp. across from the night market or at Zuela Guesthouse) and should cost about 30,000 - 50,000 Kip / day (incl. helmets and free map). With a motorbike, you can travel around to visit the many villages around and in Luang Namtha and also see the scenic countryside (eg. closer to Muang Nalae, Vieng Phouka or Muang Sing).

[edit][add listing] Do

[edit] Trekking

There are two main companies offering trekking to the hill tribes in the area as well as nearby Nam Ha Protected Area. It is illegal to take an unlicensed guide or to trek independently since tourists have gotten lost and have also offended the local people.

• Luang Namtha Tourism Department (Eco-Guide Service), located behind the night market. Offers up to four days trekking for an average of USD16/day. Groups can be from 4-8 people and the cost per person drops the more participants there are. Other activities offered include kayaking.

• Green Discovery [2] offers up to three days trekking trips, the price is a bit more expensive than in the tourist office. They also offer kayaking and other activities.

The mountainous and 'jungle' scenery in the area is a major attraction. If you are seeking to trek through this type of vegetation, make plain your preference as many treks take pax generally through the rural landscapes of farmland and rice paddy.

You can also take a tuk-tuk or bicycle and just go independently to some of the villages which are next to the roads and not in the jungle. A mountain-bike rental from a good shop will provide you with a not-to-scale map over villages and a nice waterfall. The surroundings are really pretty to cycle about in.

The quality of bicycling on the road from Luang Namtha to the Chinese border is excellent. The road is completely sealed with little or no traffic along the way-- except for a 1 km muddy patch near the Chinese border. The route from Luang Namtha to Boten round trip is approximately 120 km long and passes through Laotian hill country and rice fields. The grades range from flat to moderate with one 2 km 10% grade stretch. Welcomes along the way are great.

Small semi-auto motorbikes (eg. Honda Dream copies) are now readily available (esp. across from the night market or at Zuela Guesthouse) and should cost about 30,000 - 50,000 Kip / day (incl. helmets and free map). With a motorbike, you can travel around to see the beautiful countryside and visit the villages in and around Luang Namtha (eg. closer to Muang Nalae, Vieng Phouka or Muang Sing).

Then there a number of waterfalls to be seen, closeby Namtha town is the Nam Dee waterfall and near Muang Sing is the Gneung Phou Ku Lom waterfall

[edit] Other

There are several herbal saunas in Luang Namtha, the most popular being the one next to the Panda Restaurant, down the lane from the Lao Airlines office. It's a very simple rickety shack, but easy to spot (look for the stove) and equipped with separate male/female saunas, a changing room and lockers. The tourist price is 10,000 kip, with optional massages around the same. See Laos#Bathe for tips on herbal sauna etiquette.

Last but not least, if you liked what you saw, leave a compliment at the People's Complaint Box in front of city hall!

[edit][add listing] Buy

Money: There are two banks and one post office offering change for cash and travellers' cheques, all in the main street the bank next to the tourism office change travellers for 3% commission (minimum of 3$). Banque pour le commerce exterieur Laos [BCEL] now has an ATM: but, all-too-often patrons complain of non-delivery of the cash. All BCEL ATM's have a high (20,000Kip) ATM service charge and low transaction limit (700,000Kip).

There are three sisters of the Akha people travelling from Muang Sing every day to sell their crafts and agricultural products (Opium and ganja) to falang. They are difficult to get rid of, and may follow you around town. Enjoy a bi-lingual conversation with them, it's great fun. If you refuse their wares they might offer you a special treat.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Eating options in Luang Namtha are decent but a little monotonous, with pretty much all restaurants serving the same menu of Lao, Thai and ersatz Western dishes at the same prices. Be aware that many restaurants in northern Laos find it cheaper (and perhaps easier) to employ Chinese cooks (which is why monotony prevails).

The night market is a good choice if you want to try something new after being on Phat Thai and Sticky Rice for a while. Lao market traders are learning that westerners readily buy their prepared meals, and so there is an option to supplement household income (when the rice paddy isn't otherwise consuming their time). The range on offer runs from soups, Laab, BBQ chicken, beer, good Lao coffee, and various fruits. During daytime, the good Lao food is always on offer at the 'normal' daytime market (opp. Sawngthaew bus station).

Alternatives to the western oriented restaurants include:

• Coffee House. Open eatery with a comprehensive Thai Menu, lattes and cappuccinos, great fruit shakes, plus friendly atmosphere.
• Minority Restaurant. One of the few options that stands out in any way, this little joint is run by Black Tai (Tai Dam) tribesmen and specializes in tribal cuisine, with Tai Dam, Akha and Lisu dishes on offer. It's fairly simple stuff, but still a nice change — although the menu also covers all the usual suspects if you really need more banana pancakes, omelettes or French fries.
• Yamuna Indian Restaurant. Offers good southern India food and is a good alternative if you want to get a respite from Lao food. Owner is an Indian from Tamil Nadu who married a local Lao.
• Panda Restaurant. Just a 2 minute walk away from the main area of town, with a nice second floor patio with views over rice paddies. It has a friendly owner and good food that's not overpriced. Make sure to try their fruit shakes as they are the biggest in town.

A few steps away from Yamuna Indian Restaurant (on the same row) are two Chinese restaurants which are operated by Chinese from China, who speaks little English. No menu and you can only order by selecting your dishes in their kitchen. Dishes prepared are a bit oily (so please request the chef or the waiter to use lesser oil) and the serving style is either plain or spicy. The taste is OK and the pricing is far more cheaper than eating in any restaurants in town.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Luang Nam Tha is not a party town, but it's easy to find a cold Beerlao.

• Manychan Guesthouse. Probably the most popular place in town, has a dedicated bar on the 2nd floor above the restaurant. Seems to want to close before 11 PM, but you'll usually be able to stay a bit longer. You will have to wake your guesthouse up though, as they probably have shut down already.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

There are a number of decent guesthouses in town. A few surround the large intersection that can be seen from the bus station. One guesthouse run by a Chinese family even lets patrons borrow bicycles for free.

• Khamking Guesthouse, tel. 086-312238. Right in the center of the "new" town, this simple guesthouse is comfortable and squeaky clean. Rooms with fan, TV and attached bathroom from 50,000 kip.
• Keusophone Guesthouse. Rooms starting at 20000 kip with no bathroom. Free water in the lobby.
• Zuela Guesthouse. 086 212059 / 020 5886694; Fax: 086 212058. This has become extremely popular with western travellers, esp. couples. Very good atmosphere and spacious rooms. Rooms start at about 60,000 Kip, but like all places, the price increases as more mod cons are sought.

[edit] Mid-range

There's only one even slightly upmarket option in Luang Namtha:

• Boat Landing Guest House [3], about 7 km south of town. Beautiful eco-tourism bungalows on the river with quiet surroundings. Twin rooms USD20-30 (cash only).

[edit] Contact

Internet: There are a few internet cafe along the main guesthouse strip charging 200 kip per minute. Speeds are decent.

[edit] Get out

• Huay Xai, for the Thai border and Mekong cruises down to Luang Prabang
• Mengla, to cross into China's province of Yunnan
• Muang Sing
• Muang Say (Udomxai)

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!