Longyan
From Wikitravel
Longyan (龙岩 Lóngyán) is a city in Fujian.
[edit] Understand
Longyan is a small city in rural Fujian. The nearby countryside is extremely beautiful, and punctuated by many thousands of tulou, a Hakka structure where a number of residences are built inside a single fortified compound. Most of these tulou are still in use, however the area has suffered an extreme population drain as the able-bodied have generally moved to Eastern Coastal cities as migrant workers, leaving behind a population of the very old and the very young. The villages also contain modern housing, and older houses that aren't tulou.
The people in the area are friendly, tourist infrastructure is minimal, and there are no large tour buses - which makes for a very pleasant contrast with other touristed rural areas in China. However, don't expect any English to be spoken, anywhere.
[edit] Get in
By Train Longyan has rail connections to Shenzhen, Fuzhou and trains generally stop at other towns on the way. "By Bus" Longyan is well connected and most cities in Fujian including Xiamen and Fuzhou can be reached from here. The bus station is located on Ren Min Dong Road and tickets can be brought at the adjoining ticket office. From Xiamen, there are numerous buses that depart in the early afternoon, however the last return bus departs at 12:30. Buses can drop passengers off at villages or Tulous along the way.
[edit] Get around
While there are very rare taxis and motorbikes, they're very irregular, and a traveler would do best to arrange their transportation for the day before starting out. Any lodging should be able to arrange a taxi, additionally there are local travel agencies near the entrance to Hukeng Village.
[edit] Talk
The language most commonly used in day to day life is Hakka and Nanminyu, many people will be able to speak some amount of Mandarin but their accents and listening comprehension are generally very rough. There are very few English speakers.
[edit][add listing] See
The best-known tourist attraction in the area are the earth houses(土楼 tǔlóu), often round, of the Hakka people(客家人 kèjiārén). Hakka means "guest"; they arrived in the area as refugees from one of Northern China's wars several hundred years ago and still have their own dialect and customs. These houses are quite large, holding an extended family, and built to be easily defended. There are none in the city itself, but there are thousands in villages to the West. Hotels can arrange a car or van to visit these places.
[edit][add listing] Do
There are a large number of beautiful villages in the area that are worth exploring - a hotel or a private taxi driver (200-300 kuai/day) should be able to suggest an itinerary. There's a particularly large grouping in the village of Hukeng, to the West of Longyan - entrance fee is 40 kuai. Across the street from the entrance are businesses which can arrange small private tours, don't expect any English to be spoken.
[edit][add listing] Buy
Longyan's city center in itself is small, but has many places where designer brand and mobile phones etc can be bought. There is also the wholesale district of Jiaoyi Cheng which sells everything from shoes and tea to electronics at wholesale prices. Jiaoyi Cheng can be reached by catching the No.10,No.12 and No.19 buses.
[edit][add listing] Eat
With few exceptions, there are no formal restaurants in the area. Hotels or private lodging will be able to offer food, and there are country-restaurants where you can select whichever meats and vegetables look good and they'll stir-fry them in a large amount of oil. Expect to pay around 20 kuai/meal.
[edit][add listing] Drink
There's a number of tea farms in the area, and Fujian is well known for its Oolong tea, and to a lesser extent its Iron Guanyin Tea (铁观音茶). Fujian has what might be called a tea-ceremony, where water is poured into a pot full of tea leaves, immediately poured into another pot, and then poured into thimble-sized tea glasses. It's likely any restaurants, lodging, or private residence you enter, will offer you this style of tea. The tea itself varies wildly in both quality and price.
Additionally, many private residences will have a large jug of baijiu, with Chinese medicinals steeped inside.
Most soft drinks and especially beer will be served room-temperature.
[edit][add listing] Sleep
There are hotels in Longyan and the nearby city of Yongding. Most of the more touristed Tulous offer simple lodgings, which generally won't provide the basic conveniences and should cost around 30 kuai/night. Hukeng village has several lodgings that are a step up from this, speak basic English, and offer Western food & coffee - try the Fuyu Building Changdi Inn (0597-553-2280). Slightly to the West of Hukeng Village, the Jiang family is very friendly, can arrange a private driver, and offers accommodation in a modern home with electricity, A/C, and a shower, for 40 kuai/night - very little English is spoken (1-39-5905-5897).
[edit] Get out
If leaving the area from a village, the bus stations are very informal. Check with locals to make sure you're waiting at the right spot. Alternatively, just flag down the bus as it passes by.
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