Lombok

From Wikitravel

Jump to: navigation, search

Lombok is an island in the West Nusa Tenggara province of Indonesia.

Lush Balinese resort garden, Senggigi
Lush Balinese resort garden, Senggigi

[edit] Cities

  • Bangsal - little harbor servicing the Gili Islands
  • Kuta - a surfing mecca like its Bali namesake, but that's where the similarities end
  • Lembar - for boats to Bali
  • Mataram - the largest city by far
  • Senggigi - the main tourist strip, including the neighboring beach of Mangsit

[edit] Other destinations

  • Gili Islands - three islands off the west coast, popular with backpackers
  • Gili Sulat - two off-the-beaten-path small islands off the east coast
  • Mount Rinjani - large, active volcano looming over the island

[edit] Understand

Located just east of Bali, Lombok has been promoted as "an unspoiled Bali" for quite some time, with beautiful beaches and the large, looming volcano of Mount Rinjani. However, an impending tourism boom was severely disrupted by riots in 2000, when mobs of Muslims and ethnic Sasak people, ostensibly protesting sectarian violence in Maluku, attacked and looted churches as well as homes and businesses owned by Christians and ethnic Chinese. The ensuing years have been quieter, but tourists have continued to stay away.

The more Islamic culture in Lombok compared to Bali may explain the reason why Lombok is quieter than Bali in terms of parties and nightlife, which can be either a positive or a negative depending on your point of view. Lombok is also becoming increasingly popular for honeymooners.

[edit] Culture

Lombok's people are 85% Sasak, culturally and linguistically closely related to the Balinese, but unlike Bali's Hindu they are Muslims. A notable non-orthodox Islamic group found only on Lombok are the Wektu Telu ("Three Prayers"), who as the name suggests pray only three times daily, instead of the five times required in the Quran.

[edit] Climate

While tropical, hot and humid, Lombok is drier than neighboring Bali, which makes it a particularly attractive option during the October-December rainy season (it rains on Lombok too, but rarely for more than an hour). The peak of the tourist season, though, is May through August.

[edit] Talk

The main local language is Sasak. Bahasa Indonesia is universally spoken and English is common in the resort areas.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Lombok's only airport is Mataram's Selaparang Airport (AMI), which occasionally also shows up in flight schedules as "Ampenan" (hence the seemingly odd airport code). There are frequent connections to Denpasar on Bali (30 min) and Surabaya (1 hour) on Garuda, Merpati and Germania Trisakti ("GT Air"), but only a single flight per day to Jakarta (on Garuda). A flight offered from and to Yogyakarta (on Garuda) is currently not being scheduled anymore. International flights are limited to Kuala Lumpur daily on Merpati and Singapore thrice weekly on Silk Air, with visas available on arrival. Lombok Network maintains a useful, mostly-updated flight schedule listing all flights to the island.

[edit] By boat

Slow boats from Padang Bai on Bali leave about every hour for the four- to five-hour trip to Lembar (Rp 25,000). The slow ferries are a bit rusty and dusty, with minimal restroom facilities, and are used mostly by locals, with few tourists on board. Access to the passenger deck is usually from the vehicle deck via steep and narrow stairs, so maneuvering heavy luggage is a challenge. Would-be porters wait by the docks, and will happily carry your stuff for Rp 10,000 per item. Sometimes they insist on doing so even when you don't ask. They can be a bit intimidating, and sometimes try to overcharge. Lots of Kuta travel agents offer end-to-end transport, including a van ride from your Bali hotel to Padang Bai, the ferry ticket, and a ride from the dock on Lombok to your ultimate destination, for Rp 130,000 and up depending on where you are going in Lombok.

Fast ferries run from Benoa on Bali to Lembar on Lombok twice daily in season, one daily in the off season. The trip takes just 2 hours but costs US$25/30 depending on class. Perama Tour also runs daily cruises from Padang Bai directly to Senggigi for Rp120,000.

[edit] Get around

Perahu fishing boats, Gili Trawangan
Perahu fishing boats, Gili Trawangan

[edit] By bemo

Bemos (converted passenger-carrying minivans) are the main means of long-distance transport on Lombok. They can be hailed down on all larger streets, and will happily take you even short hops around Senggigi. Fares are cheap: for example, as of November 2005 the official fare from Mataram to Senggigi is Rp. 1500/person, but tourists tend to get charged a bit extra and empty bemos will expect you to charter them for a higher price yet. Travel agents can also get you on semi-regular shuttle services, which connect Senggigi, the airport, and the harbors of Lembar (for Bali) and Bangsal (for the Gilis).

[edit] Rental Car

Renting a car is also an option and there are several places in Senggigi and Mataram to rent from. Expect to pay 150,000 (low end Suzuki mini jeep) to 400,000 (Toyota 4x4). Petrol is not cheap but it is less expensive than in some countries.

[edit] By taxi

Metered taxis are a fairly new development on Lombok, but they have become quite common in Mataram and Senggigi. The largest operator is Blue Bird, although there are a few other companies competing for your custom. As of November 2005, flag fall is Rp3,850 and the meter ticks up a few hundred rupiah for every hundred meters past 2 km. Figure on Rp10,000 for hops around town and around Rp30,000 from Senggigi to Mataram.

[edit] By horse cart

Horse-pulled carts known as cidomo are very common on Lombok, and while a bit touristy in Senggigi, they're still a serious method of transportation. Make sure that you bargain the rate before the journey. In the Gilis there are no cars or motorbikes, so cidomo or bicycle is the only way to go.

[edit] By boat

Traditional fishing boats known as perahu ply the waters around Lombok, and are instantly recognizable due to their rather unusual feature of having two logs attached by bars on both sides like a catamaran, for greater stability in heavy swells. They can also be chartered, either directly from owners (in which case some knowledge of Bahasa will come in handy) or via any travel agent, who will of course take their cut. Some prices to aim for are Rp.100,000 from Bangsal to the Gilis or Rp.400,000 for a full day.

[edit] By bicycle

Traffic is relatively light throughout the island so travel by bicycle is quite possible, and provides a very different cultural experience to other means of transport. You should bring your own touring bike, as local bikes are of a very basic quality although there is one biking tour operator (Lombok Biking)that has decent bikes and guides. For a full “Fact Sheet” on cycle touring in Lombok see : http://users.chariot.net.au/~gloria/indonesia.htm

[edit][add listing] See

The pepper-like sand, Tanjung Aan
The pepper-like sand, Tanjung Aan
  • Tanjung Aan, a beautiful area near the Kuta Beach. The sand is very unique that it looks like pepper. There are beach guards are on the beach early. They prevent hawkers hasseling tourists, but essentially the hawkers are mostly children trying to make a living and quite good natured.
Weaving process
Weaving process
  • See the local handicraft and weaving process in Desa (village) Sukarare. The price should be cheaper than in Sengigi shops.
  • Narmada Park (Taman Narmada). Located 10 km east of Mataram, this park was the relaxation place for the king during the time of feudalism. This park has a Hindu temple and swimming pool. Also it has a fountain which called "Youth Fountain" which is believed to give long life to a person that drink water from the fountain. Entry fee for this park is cheap. It will cost around Rp 5000.

[edit][add listing] Do

  • Traditional massage. There will be a lot of women offering the massage service. For more professional service, ask the hotel staffs.
  • Snorkeling. There are several good sites between the Gili Islands. If lucky, you can spot and swim with turtles.
  • Hiking. There are several good treks around the island Islands, Including multi day hikes up the mountain (3000 meters high) and around the crater. There are several short treks to see water falls and other island attractions.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Given that the very word lombok means "chili pepper" in Bahasa Indonesia, the local cuisine isn't quite as spicy as you might expect. Probably the best known local dish is is ayam taliwang, chicken stewed in a rich sauce of galangal, turmeric and (of course) chili.

In general, though, prices and food are much the same as anywhere else in Java or Bali. Senggigi has a few upscale international restaurants, the Gili Islands serve up banana pancakes and other backpacker favorites, and Mataram has Indonesia's easternmost McDonalds and KFC, but elsewhere it's Indonesian food all the way.

Some good restaurants in the Senggigi area:

Ye Jeon, Senggigi Plaza 2F. Surprisingly authentic Korean restaurant, especially given that it's probably the only one in all Lombok. Single dishes are reasonable (try the bibimbap, Rp35,000) but sets with a full spread of banchan appetizers are pricier at Rp80,000 and up, with 21% service/tax slapped on top.

Sheraton Senggigi, about 100 meters up the road from town. Prices about double the restaurants in town and really not worth the extra. The food is generally of poor quality and servings are small.

De Quake [1], Pasar Senggigi/Art Market, Modern, minimalistic, lounge style interior on the beach with beautiful sunset view. Upstairs food, downstairs reserved for drinks and luxurious sunbeds.

The Square, on the Senggigi Square. The most expensive restaurant in town, but worth every penny - double. By far the best meat in Lombok! After food you are welcome on the upstairs terraces for drinks and maybe a little dance. Vegetarians may have to get creative to find something other than pasta noodles and tomato sauce, but if you order the pan-fried gnocchi and just hold the prawns you will be amazed.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Alcoholic drinks are not available everywhere throughout the island, as Lombok is mostly Muslim. However, local supermarkets offer a variety of local as well as international beers. Note that beer is relatively expensive: a small bottle costs at least the same as a full meal in a "local" eatery.

The island's most touristic city, Senggigi, has numerous bars and clubs with the usual international favorites. The local favorite, though, is tuak, a red or white fermented palm wine with 2-5% volume.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Nearly all of Lombok's better-quality accommodation can be found in Senggigi. Backpackers tend to travel to Gili Islands. See those articles for details; the following covers only accommodation elsewhere in Lombok.

[edit] Hotels

[edit] Mid-range

  • Novotel Lombok, [2] Mandalika Resort Pantai Putri Nyale Pujut, Central Lombok, tel. +62-370-653333, Fax +62-370-653555. Best hotel on the south coast & friendly for travelling with children - with interesting swimming pool design, good playing and sport areas for kids. The resort is located approx. 1h drive from Mataram. Rates: US$66-77/night.

[edit] Splurge

  • The Oberoi Lombok, Medana Beach, Tanjung West Lombok, Tel. +62-370-638444, Fax +62-370-632496, email: gm@theoberoi-lombok.com, [3]. The most expensive hotel in Lombok. An ideal hideaway due to its 'secluded' area. Rates: US$270-952/night (discounts available).
  • Hotel Tugu Lombok, Sire Beach, Email: lombok@tuguhotels.com or bali@tuguhotels.com [4]. . The upcoming Hotel Tugu Lombok is located on the northwest coast of the island. Neighboring the site is an 18 hole-golf course and virgin landscapes, traditional village houses and empty green fields where local life continues in today’s age much the same as it has done for centuries. Tugu Lombok land comprises of approximately six hectares of mature palm plantations, facing the open ocean and the sunrise of Mount Rinjani. The clear blue water in front of Hotel Tugu Lombok is most ideal for swimming, snorkeling and diving during the day.
  • Qunci Villas, Mangsit Beach, Tel. +62-370-693800, Fax +62-370-693802, email: stay@quncivillas.com, [5]. A small resort where the staffs know and greet you by your first name. A nice medium size swimming pool which looks as if it is part of the sea. The room does not have TV, in order to 'detach' the guests from the outside world. The restaurant serve very good food at reasonable price, and dinner can be enjoyed directly on the beach. Rates: US$70-90.
  • Sheraton Senggigi, Jl. Raya Senggigi Km.8, tel. +62-370-693333. Senggigi's swankiest resort. Published rates from US$100 per night, but rooms in the unrenovated wing might be available for 20-30% less on the Sheraton website. Nice pool and gardens typical of four-star resort, but potentially less sticker-shock than usual. While a sunset cocktail will typically cost almost US$10 with tax and service at a fancy resort in Bali, the Sheraton Senggigi had (fall 2006) a half-price happy hour where you could get one for about $3.50.
  • The Qunci Mangsit Beach, Tel. +62-370-693800, Fax +62-370-693802. Exclusive Luxury 2 and 3 bedroom villas with private pools and butler service.

[edit] Private villas

One accommodation option for which is becoming more popular, emulating what has has happened on its sister island of Bali, is private villas complete with staff, although not every place sold as a "villa" actually fits the bill. Prices vary widely: some operators claim to go as low as $30/night, but realistically you'll be looking at upwards of $200/night for anything with a decent location and a private pool, and at the top of range rents can easily go north of $1,000/night. Villas listed here have private courtyards and pools.

  • The Anandita[6]. Private luxury villa over 3 acres in size next to the Kosaido golf course and five minutes by boat from the Gili Islands. Nearby is the Lombok Oberoi. It boasts a 27 meter private swimming pool and a volleyball court. The villa includes four bedrooms, private pool and garden - comes with a full complement of 16 staff (private chef, maids, security, etc). Prices vary from US$830-1270 depending on season, for the entire villa.
  • The Qunci[7] Mangsit Beach, Tel. +62-370-693800, Fax +62-370-693802. Exclusive Luxury 2 and 3 bedroom villas with private pools and butler service.

[edit] Stay safe

Although Lombok is a safe and stable place, these tips may help you along the way:

  • There is no written curfew, but when travelling in villages or non-tourist areas you are best to stay indoors after dark (if your afraid of the dark, if your not the whole world is still out there).
  • Always have locks on the zips of your bags. Not only do they keep thieving hands out they also prevent people slipping prohibited substances in.
  • Dress modestly in villages and religious sites; long pants or sarongs are suggested and a blouse that covers the woman's bust and shoulders should do the trick. This is not so much a safety measure, but it does save you and onlookers from embarrassment.

[edit] Get out

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!