From Wikitravel

Gunung Leuser National Park is a large national park covering 950,000 hectares in northern Sumatra, Indonesia, straddling the border of the provinces of North Sumatra and Aceh.

[edit] Understand

The park is named after its highest point, the 3,381m Mount Leuser (Gunung Leuser).

[edit] History

[edit] Landscape

[edit] Flora and fauna

Seeing the orangutans is magical. You can usually see them near the main lodge, but it is better to do a half day hike than 3 hours if you have time. The orangutans can be seen at the feeding reserve, a 15 minute walk out of the village, but the best experience is in the jungle where there are many semi-wild and wild animals. The wild Orangutan is difficult to spot unless you go deep into the jungle. There are also white and black gibbons that make an amazing noise calling out to each other, and Thomas Leaf monkeys. If you are lucky, you may be able to see toucans, moon snakes, monitor lizards. Since there are very few still alive, it is very improbable that either the Sumatran Tiger or the Sumatran Rhinoceros will be encountered, although footprints and droppings have been reported.

[edit] Climate

During the wet season, October to March, expect rain at least daily, towards the late afternoon and early evening. Intensity varies, but invariably the monsoonal rains always arrive. Climate is always very humid, so pack a lot of drinking water if you are trekking.

[edit] Get in

A one-way bus fare on large, non air-conditioned buses from Medan to Bukit Lawang, 86 km by road to the north-west, was Rp 10,000 per person (in Jul. 2008).

There are many drivers offering minivans from the Belawan ferry terminal direct to Bukit Lawang, bargain hard. Expect to be shifted minivan at least once (in Medan). Prices vary between Rp. 60,000 and 70,000 all the way to Bukit Lawang. The extra cost should outweigh the hassle of getting into Medan, finding the bus station, then finding a hostel in Bukit Lawang (especially if you arrive during a torrential downpour). The driver will usually recommend a family or friend's hostel.

Another option is to self drive a rental car. This is possible with an international drivers licence and will cost around Rp 350,000 per day plus fuel (Jul 08). The road to Bukit Lawang varies in state from well made dual carriage ways through to deep pot holed aphalt roads and some gravel. Anyone considering driving in Sumatra should travel with a local bus first to get familiar with the driving style of the locals. The drive takes about 3.5 hours and you can park the car with security at one of the local hotels for Rp 10,000 per day. Yoga Car Rentals in Medan is the most prominent company on the internet and their service was great.

[edit] Fees/Permits

Access to the Gunung Leuser National Park is Rp. 20,000 per person - payable either in Bukit Lawang, or at the orangutan feeding ground. Permit should be included in all treks and jungle activities, but check with the guide to be sure.

[edit] Get around

Bukit Lawang was destroyed by a flood in 2003, and is still recovering. As such, the town can very easily be walked from one end to the other in 30 minutes. A big bridge in the center of the town provides access across the river.

[edit][add listing] See

• Bukit Lawang. A famous orangutan refuge/rehabilitation center, that suffered from major flooding on November 2, 2003, which killed many people and destroyed the village when waters raised up to 20 meters in places. The Indonesian government completed a new diversion channel and breakwater in July 2005, and temporary housing now exists for villagers (nice homes, but without running water). Villagers still bathe in the river that runs through the area. Free sightings are available just by sitting across from the sanctuary and waiting patiently; orangutans that have been rehabilitated and released often come back to the sanctuary from the wild to be fed. The sanctuary charges Rp.20,000 to see a couple orangutans it has in cages (for scheduled feedings), but if you walk around the grounds before 7:30AM or after 6:00PM, you can see these caged orangutans for free. Furthermore, if you want to walk into the jungle, they will request that you have a guide, so if you are travelling on a budget, a dry-season possibility is to hike for free along the river. You actually have a better chance of seeing monkeys and orangutans along the river that by trecking into the jungle, where sightings can't be guaranteed. However, be aware that several river crosses will be required as the river slightly shifts its course after every rainy season, so wear appropriate shoes. During the rainy season, such a trek is impossible and a boat is needed to cross over to the orangutan rehabilitation facility (rate Rp.500 per person for a 7 meter crossing). As at July 2007 it takes around 3-4 hours from Medan to Bukit Lawang due to the condition of the road (lots of potholes that have not been repaired due to lower tourist numbers visiting).

• Exciting News The new Governor of North Sumatra comes from Bukit Lawang and one of his promises was to fix the road from Medan to Bukit Lawang.

Work has already commenced as witnessed on Friday 2nd May by traveller Pamela on her way back to Medan; it does mean that certain parts are being rehabilitated esp. near B. Lawang but between Bohorok and Binjai the road is still very poor.

• A recent video shows the area and the jungle trek. Its on Youtube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgZ1Zyyd3NQ

• Ketambe is a village on the west side of Gunung Leuser National Park. It is less visited than Bukit Lawang, but the area is amazing and the people are very friendly. To reach Ketambe from Medan, you have to go first to Kutacane (a 30 minutes flight or a 7 hours minibus ride). Note the flights fill very quickly so make sure you book as soon as arriving in Medan.

Note also that the airline flying is on a contract basis and from time to time when the contract finishes there are times when there are NO flights until a new contract is signed. 2007 contract finished in December 2007. Contract for 2008 has not commenced as of 19th March 2008 There will be an announcement on a website on Ketambe.com - try to google for website. From Kutacane take a mobil (local transport) and go 30 km to Ketambe. At least 6 guesthouses (Pak Mus Homestay, Sadar Wisata, Cinta Alam, Pondok Wisata, Gurah Bungalows and new one called Friendship Guesthouse) offer accommodation in wooden bungalows with bath for about Rp. 50.000. Indonesian and western style food is available. It is possible to organize trekking. You will see real wild living orangutans (not like in Bukit Lawang, were you can even feed them), monkeys and many kind of birds. On a 2 to 3 day trip you can go to a hot spring beside the Alas river and camp over there. There are a lot of opportunities to do a trekking tour; even a 14 days hike to the top of the Mount Leuser (3400 m). Every guesthouse can organize a rafting trip down the Alas river.

• Tengkahan,(more commonly spelt Tangkahan) has about 7 elephants and very few tourists. Guides there charge Rp.180,000 for guided jungle treks, though just seeing the elephants is very cheap (free if you know the right people), and rides on the elephants are negotiable.

There are two main accommodation places in Tangkahan namely Bamboo River owned by an English woman Jane and her Indonesian husband Wayan and Jungle Lodge owned by a German woman Sylvia and her Indonesian husband Alex, both overlooking the river. Prices as of September 2006 were from 50,000 up to about 75,000. Nowadays there is a third smaller cheaper back packer place owned by one of the English speaking guides Mega. Mega's 3 rooms are next door to Bamboo River. Note, however, that fewer buses go to Tengkahan than Bukit Lawang from Medan so conditions are rougher and longer. It is about 2 hours by motorbike to Tengkahan from Bukit Lawang over dirt roads, as there is no direct bus service between Tengkahan and Bukit Lawang, despite being closer together than either is to Medan. In Bukit Lawang as of July 2007 there are two guides namely Romi and Wanda who do jeep trips down to Tangkahan. Rates for arranging guides to drive you by motorbike to Tengkahan from Bukit Lawang were Rp.220,000 for 3 motorbikes and 3 guides to drive the bikes there and take them back. A face mask and cheap sunglasses will help with dust. The rainy season can make sections of this route impassable.

• Kedah Village, a distance from Blangkejeren a 3 hr bus trip from Ketambe, there is a jungle trekking around Pucuk Angkasan and a mountaineering activity to the highest place in Leuser National Park, Leuser mountain. Guides there charge Rp.1.000,000 for one guide to Leuser Mountain and must take two guides. Trekking to Leuser Mountain take seven days to summit and seven days back to village. You can see many of wild animals there. There is lot of birds. You also can stay at "Tobbaco Huts". Pucuk Angkasan take only 8 hours. But you can set until 3 days for pleasure and watch many birds. The place is very wet like every rain forest and the view is so amazing. "Grass" grows in good condition there. it's will be a good traveling. You can ask for Mr Jally, one of senior and reliable guide. Though well known of the excellent grass it is recommended to dine in and not to take away. There is a kind of eco lodge back in service, deep in the valley of Sinebuk.

Another excellent contact in Kedah is Pak Umar and his English speaking son who is based in Blangkejeren.

[edit][add listing] Do

If you want to see wild orangutans, note that guides will sell their services to trek into the surrounding jungle for 1-2 days to search for them, often charging US$65-80 per night, besides provisions. Rates can be had for US$35 per night with hard bargaining. Although sightings of orangutans is likely, it is unknown whether they are more tame wild animals or less tame reintroduced animals. Whatever the case, a trip in the jungle to see them and the other flora and fauna is worthwhile. Jungle Eddy, Erwin, Alek and Bobby are known to be reliable guides. Most can arrange food and gear for jungle camping etc.

When on the trek Jungle Eddy provides an insightful and fun look at the beautiful tropical rain forests. Along with his partner, Firman the pair have a solid mix of jungle skills, humour, great cooking and a little theatre which adds to the experience.

Another hero on the trip is the Thomas Leaf Monkey. Such a wonderful creature that leaps into air with wild abandon as they move from tree to tree. Their mohawk hair styles and faces filled with millions of years of character really make these little guys stand out.

You will want to be fit for the more adventurous treks. The humidity coupled with the intensity of grade of the hills makes for some hard work. The reward is a late afternoon paddle in the river. Watch the currents though. The river moves fast!

Other activities include using an innertube to float down the river (called cubing in Sumatra, pronounced "choobing"). Competitive rates in August 2005 were Rp.5,000 per tube if you aggressively bargain and only go for a short (2-3 hour) trip. Remember that you have to walk back up-river with tube in tow.

[edit][add listing] Buy

There isn't much to buy in Bukit Lawang. The best you will find is exceptionally tacky t-shirts that look like a photograph has been ironed onto the front.

[edit][add listing] Eat

• Tony's Restaurant serves excellent home made pizza for those craving a touch of the west. The best spaghetti this side of Roma and a great tasting Gado Gado for those seeking some of the local fare.
• Green Hill a new restaurant/pool bar opened end of February 2008, situated along the path heading up to Jungle Inn, Garden Inn and Sam's Bungalows. Owned by Andrea Molyneaux and Mbra-they have created an incredible building out of the old Queens building from pre 'Bukit Lawang Flood' days.

Andrea who has a PHD in Primates and Conservation is planning a small conservation corner at Green Hill.

• Maliki Hill Disco Bar Saturday night entertainment up at the top the hill overlooking the refugee houses. Owned and run by a local Reskana and his wife Korinna who hails from Jersey.
• Jungle Tribe a cocktail bar and restaurant owned by Erika-Canadian woman and her husband Agun. Situated next door to Sam's restaurant across the road from Sam's Bungalows- 3 very pleasant rooms with great views of the river.

[edit][add listing] Drink

At sunset a great place for a Bintang is the terrace at the Eco Lodge. The friendly folks there will serve you up a cold beer and you can watch the colours change over the town and river below.

There are a few bars around where you can just pull up a bench by the river and kick back and watch the world go by. Listen to some reggae music and have a little fun. You know what Im saying. Just relax.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Lodging

Don't expect to pay higher than Rp.30,000 to 40,000 for a basic room.

• Jungle Inn, directly opposite the orangutan sanctuary. Offers reasonably priced rooms, but slightly inflated prices for food by Sumatran standards.

Jungle Inn has a couple of very special rooms namely 'Honeymoon Suite' for 300,000 and the new 'Penthouse' for over 300,000.

• Nora's Homestay, approximately two kilometers by road from the river. A great kampung-style experience from 25,000rp upwards per night including self-contained shower and toilet.

Nora's family have built new accommodation of 5 rooms and restaurant along the path to Jungle Inn next door to Canoopy Restaurant and called it Rain Forest.

• Rain Forest is a great place to stay, lots of fun entertainment with many of the guides playing guitar and singing in the evenings, great food and as always Nora herself provides great company.

• Garden Inn not far from Jungle Inn is another pleasant place to stay in Bukit Lawang.

• Bukit Lawang Cottages also known as 'Eco Lodge' (just across the river from main village at the base of the hill and where the walking tracks start) is a good option with prices starting from 80,000/night particularly good, if you arrive late in the day. It's also one of the main places to eat/drink at night and meet in the morning for treks.

• Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah is across the river next door to Yusman which is next door to Wisma Sibayak. Cheap rooms with a double and single bed go for Rp. 30,000.

These three are all budget places and pleasant enough to stay in. Bukit Lawang Indah has excellent cheap food.

New places in Bukit Lawang are Sam's - 3 rooms with prices from 80,000-150,000, next door to Jungle Inn and nearby Jungle Tribe currently 'a bar and restaurant', but with 3 rooms planned for the future.

Hostal Indra Inn, directly at the river at your left hand side when you walk to the orangutan centre. Authentic rooms and 3 new rooms that were completed on the end of March 2007. Good healthy food for reasonable prices.

[edit] Camping

[edit] Backcountry

[edit] Stay safe

Guides can get quite flirtatious with the girls during trekking trips. Recommended to team up with a larger group during a hike if travelling as a single female or pair.

[edit] Get out

Public bus to Medan leaves all the time. Expect 20 people in a van with 10 seats, so snuggle in.

Hire a car from Andreas or Nicky at Yoga Car Rentals. They meet you at the airport and give you the keys and map. That's all you need if you've got any sense of adventure. The people are wondeful and the drive is a bit bumpy but great fun.

This article is an outline and needs more content. It has a template, but there is not enough information present. Please plunge forward and help it grow!