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Leiden

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The west gate of Leiden
The west gate of Leiden

Leiden [1] is a town in the Netherlands. The city is known for its oldest university in the country, the birthplace of Rembrandt and its beautiful, old city centre (the second biggest after Amsterdam). It is a friendly, small city which has a large population of students.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By train

Leiden is best reached by train. The journey takes 15 minutes from The Hague, and 20 minutes from Schiphol Airport, the principal airport in the Netherlands. The journey from Amsterdam takes between 30 and 40 minutes.

Most trains arrive at Leiden Centraal, which is 500m North-West of the City Center, and 1km from the City Hall. Leiden Lammenschans station is on the opposite side of the city center, just over 1km from the City Hall. If you do not feel like walking from the station to the centre you can take a bus (ask which ones go to the Breestraat bus stop); this costs €1 during off hours.

[edit] By car

In spite of the two highways around Leiden (A4 and A44), the centre of Leiden isn't easy to reach by car. It is best to try and park your car at the transferium (FREE parking) and continue your journey by bus. For this transferium you have to follow the A44 and then take exit 8 (Katwijk, Leiden Transferium). There are also parking lots on the Morsweg (south-west of the town centre) and on the Langegracht (north of town centre, near the station). These parking lots are crowded though, and there's no guarantee there will be space here, especially during the summer. Otherwise there are parking lots at the Groenoordhallen and Haagweg from where free shuttle busses run to the city centre. Outside the old center, the area inside the Singel canal, parking is free everywhere.

[edit] By bus

Leiden train station is a central hub for the local bus network, so if you want to go anywhere local your best bet is to go here and ask around.

[edit] Get around

Everything is easily reached on foot and the city is positively charming as a walking pleasure. Alternatively you can rent a bike at the railway station's bike shops.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Museums

Leiden is one of the most important museum cities in the Netherlands. Three national museums are located in Leiden, among others, that worth to visit. All major museums are within 10-15 minutes of walking distance from the central station.

  • Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (National Museum of Antiquities), Rapenburg 28, +31-71–5163163, [2]. Tu-F, 10AM-5PM & Sa/Su/holidays, 12AM-5PM. Includes an outstanding collection of ancient Egyptian antiquities, and a small temple that was given to the Netherlands by the Egyptians for their help with the Aswan monuments transfer project. It also features an exhibition on the archeological history of the Netherlands including dug-up burial treasures and the like. Adult € 7.50, Child (4-17) € 6.50.
  • Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde (National Museum of Ethnology), Steenstraat 1, +31-71-5168800, [3]. Tu-Su/holidays, 10AM-5PM. The museum shows the culture of native peoples around the world in a refreshingly open-minded way. Permanent exhibitions are grouped based on geographical regions. A good, well thought-out museum with lots of background information in its bookshop, extensive library, and computer screens that are strewn about the museum. Of special interest are the temporary exhibits. Adult € 7.50, Child (4-12) & Over 65 € 4. Permanent exhibition is free of charge on Wednesday.
  • Naturalis (National museum of natural history), Darwinweg 2, +31-71-5687600, [4]. Tu-F, 10AM-5PM, Sa/Su/holidays, 10AM-6PM. The main part of the museum tells the story of life on earth through bones, fossils, etc. The museum also features a collection of specimens from extinct animals, including bones from a Dodo. Do not miss the treasure chamber (schatkamer) where exceptional and valuable collections, such as extinct animal bones, gemstones, etc., are on display. The treasure chamber is sometime closed for security reason. The museum is meant to be accessible for all ages; the temporary exhibitions are often (partially) aimed at children. Child (0-3) free, (4-12) € 5, (13-17) € 6, adult (> 18) € 11.
Molen de Valk, windmill museum.
Molen de Valk, windmill museum.
  • Stedelijk Museum De Lakenhal, Oude Singel 28-32, +31-71-5165360, [5]. Tu-Su, 10AM-5PM. Municipal museum in the 17th century former clothmaker's hall. Permanent collection shows artifacts and art objects throughout the history of Leiden from 16th century. Adult (18-65) € 4, otherwise free of charge.
  • Museum Boerhaave, Lange St. Agnietenstraat 10, +31-71-5214224, [6]. Tu-Sa, 10AM-5PM, Su/holidays, 12AM-5PM. The Boerhaave Museum, named after the 16th century physician and biologist Herman Boerhaave, is the Dutch National Museum of the History of Science and Medicine. It features an extensive exhibition of scientific equipment from 1600 onwards. Highlights include the Theatrum Anatomicum (a mock-up of a lecture theatre where anatomical lessons were held), Gravesande demonstration experiments (first demonstration experiments to show Newtonian physics), the first microscope, the first helium liquefier and the first Fahrenheit thermometer. Adults € 6, child (<9) and over 65 € 3.
  • Hortus Botanicus, Rapenburg 73, +31-71-5277249. [7]. Apr. 1st-Oct. 31st, everyday open 10AM-6PM, Nov. 1st-Mar. 31st, Su-F, 10AM-4PM. It is a botanical garden that hosts different species of flowers and trees around the world. It is part of the University of Leiden. Adult € 5, child (4-12) € 2.5, over 65 € 3.
  • Molen de Valk. It was a flour windmill and now is a windmill museum. Located in just less than 5 minutes walk from Leiden central station. You can climb through all the mill's levels. On the top, you can admire the view of Leiden.
  • The Leiden American Pilgrim Museum [8] It's actually a small house (built between 1365 and 1370) opposite the bell tower of the Hooglandse kerk, furnished in the style common to the Pilgrim era. Beschuitsteeg 9, +31 (0) 71 5122413. Open Wednesday through Saturday, 1 to 5 p.m. Entrance costs €3,-

if you intend to stay for longer period of time in the Netherland and your affection is on visiting museums, then it is advised to apply for the 1-year museum card (museumjaarkaart). The museum card is only for € 40 for first time cardholders and you gain free access to more than 400 museums at anytime. Those under the age of 25 may purchase one for about €17.50. You can buy this card at any major museum.

[edit] Monuments

  • Academiegebouw.- Old university building still used for ceremonies and a few studies. The building borders on the Rapenburg. On the other side the academiegebouw borders on the Hortus Botanicus.
  • Pieterskerk - The Church of St. Peter (the patron saint of the city) is a 16th century church, in late-Gothic style. An feature which Americans will find interesting is that this church is associated with the Pilgrim Fathers, whose leader John Robinson, lived in the nearby Pieterskerkchoorsteeg (house is marked with a plaque). The church itself features a small exhibition on the Pilgrims in Leiden. People buried here include the physician Boerhave, the painter Jan Steen (of Rijksmuseum fame) and the aforementioned Pilgrim leader Robinson.
  • Hooglandse Kerk Dedicated to St Pancras and located at the site of an earlier wooden chapel dating from 1314. Construction started in 1377 but parts the building were left lower than originally planned when construction was halted in the sixteenth century. Houses were built against it's walls during the seventeenth century. Inside you can find a lying tombstone belonging to the tomb of Justinus van Nassau, illegitimate child of William of Orange.
  • Stadhuis with an old renaissance facade dating from 1597. The newer building lying behind this facade was built to replace the older one, destroyed in a fire in 1929.
  • Burcht Dated back to at least the middle ages, freely accessible.
  • Canals - Oude Rijn - The oldest branch of the Rhine river is little more than a city canal here. Historically, this waterway is what gave the area it's importance, first as a Roman border, then during the Golden Age as a trade route. Nowadays, river traffic doesn't use this branch and the river just serves to fill the city's canals with water. The area between the Oude Rijn and Nieuwe Rijn is one of the most undisturbed bits of Leiden - go here if you like walking along canals without getting run over by shoppers. On the other side of the city centre (Weddesteeg, Galgewater) is the place where the canals recombine - this is one of the most beautiful spots in Leiden, with a windmill, the old city gate, a small park, and a wooden bridge over the river (see also the image at the head of this article).

[edit] Parks

  • The Van der Werff Park is named after the mayor Pieter Adriaanszoon van der Werff, who defended the town against the Spaniards in 1574, 6 years into the Eighty Years War of Independence (1568-1648) against the Spaniards. The town was beleaguered for months and many died from hunger. According to legend van der Werff was accused by a frantic crowd of secretly hiding food reserves. He denied it vehemently and to prove his sincerity offered to cut off his arm to serve as food. This made people back off, ashamed of their mistrust. The Van der Werff Park is one of the small parks in Leiden's centre and is probably the most interesting one due to its history. There used to be blocks of houses here but during the cold afternoon of January 12, 1807, a disaster occurred. A ship filled with 18 tons of gunpowder blew up, leveling the surrounding blocks of houses on both sides of the canal and killing hundreds in the process. It's claimed the explosion was heard all the way in Groningen (250 kilometers away). Years later, the area was turned into a park on one side and a laboratory was built on the other; the Kamerlingh Onnes laboratory: famed for at one time being the coldest place on earth, where helium was liquefied for the first time, and superconductivity discovered, which earned Kamerlingh Onnes a Nobel Prize.

[edit][add listing] Do

There are two wonderful ways to stroll the old centre of Leiden. One way is to print out a paper guide that will guide you along the poems on the wall, the Muurgedichten. In 1992, the painting project was started and it was recently finished. More than 80 poems from all over the world are painted on the walls of houses. The tour will show you about 25 poems, the whole tour taking about two hours. The guide is downloadable at www.muurgedichten.nl/wandeling.

The other way is to take a tour along the courtyards that are often hidden behind the facades of houses. The Hofjeswandeling will start at the Burcht in the city centre all year round on Sundays at two, and from March until October on Tuesdays and Thursdays at two. The costs of the tour are €2.25 for adults and children (-12 years) for free. No need to buy tickets, just be present at the starting time. The tour will take about two hours.

A boat trip through the canals is also a wonderful thing to do. There are many canals, and they lead you by the most beautiful streets of the city centre. You can buy tickets for the canal cruises at the Beestenmarkt, just two minutes from the Central Station. There you can also go aboard.

[edit] Events

  • Leidsch Filmfestival [9] (in Dutch) A small yearly film festival (in 2009 from the 27th of oktober until the 1st of November) encompassing mainstream and smaller art-house films. It gets some Dutch premiers.
  • Leidsche bluesweek A yearly festival with performances by mainly (but not exclusively) Dutch performers. The Wednesday night pub-crawl is a blast with many bars hosting live music (For other venues you do have to buy tickets though they're not expensive).
  • Werfpop [10] (in Dutch) A small scale musicfestival with performances ranging from metal to dance. (in 2009 it is held on 12th of July with a.o. performances by Infadels, Voicst, Naplm Death, Dio and the Dead letters).
  • Leidsche lakenfeesten [11] (in Dutch) A week of different activities in the city center and on the canals. There's a culinairy festival, and the museumnight.
  • 3rd of October celebrations [12] (site of the 3 oktober vereniging; in Dutch). Celebrations commemorating the end of the Spanish siege of Leiden (in 1547). Part of the festivities is a huge fun fair.

A comprehensive program of all of the summer festivals and activities can be found at Zomer in Leiden [13] (in Dutch)

[edit][add listing] Buy

Haarlemmerstraat and Breestraat are the main shopping streets at the heart of the city center. They are both reachable within 10-15 min. walking from the central station. Shops include bookstores, fashion shops and other ordinary shopping items. In the areas around the Pieterskerk and Hooglandsekerk, small boutiques and antique shops are worth a visit. On Monday, shops open late from 12 noon until 5 or 6PM. Some shops (The big concerns and some other) are open every Sunday, except at the last Sunday of the month, called koopzondag, then all the shopes are open. On Thursday, shops are open late, till around 9PM (koopavond).

On Saturdays from 07:00 and on Wednesdays from 12:00, there is an open market along the canal between the Nieuwe Rijn and Vismarkt streets. They sell vegetables, fruits, fish, flowers, bread, meat, you name it.

Speciality shops:

  • Souvenirs of Leiden can be found at the VVV tourist office, Stationsweg 2D. Some major museums also sell their own souvenirs.
  • Maps, routes and other travel accessories are mostly found at the ANWB shop, Stationsweg 2, but they are not always complete. A special shop that sells almost complete map of cycling routes, walking routes, and any other maps is the Reisboekhandel Zandvliet at Stille Rijn 13.
  • Travel accessories including maps, travel guides, backpacks, and airplane tickets can be bought at the joho company a few doors from Reisboekenhandel Zandvliet at Stille Rijn 8-9

[edit] Other

  • Treinreiswinkel is a travel agency specializing in rail travel. They are well informed and can arrange international train tickets and even a complete package tour if you wish. They also sell interrail tickets. It's at Breestraat 57, 2311 CJ +31 (0) 71 5137008. They also have an Amsterdam office.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Leiden has a lot of restaurants and bars. Especially in the Pieterswijk (the east side of the Breestraat) are a lot of cosy restaurants.

Some of the restaurants in Leiden:

  • Delphi, Nieuwe rijn 52, 0715141778. This restaurant serves the best Greek food in Leiden and can get quite busy because of it's great value for money.
  • Donattelo's, Haarlemmerstraat 20, 071 5147938. Good pizza, if you enjoy a student atmosphere!
  • Olive Garden, 071 51.22.529, Italian. Not pizza, but true Italian food. Not cheap, reservations a must on Thursday, Friday and Weekends.
  • De Oude Harmonie, Breestraat, 071 5122153. Student fare, the dailies are good value for money.
  • Porto Pino, Haven 40, 071 5219505. Serves the same type of delicious Italian foods as 'Olive garden' so no Pizza! It's a bit to the east of the centre at the recreational harbour, near the Zijlpoort.
  • Sabai Sabai, Noordeinde, 071 51.31.914, Thai. Best Thai in town, visited even by Thai embassy officials.
  • Verboden Toegang, Kaiserstraat 7, 071-5143388, [14].
  • De Branderij [15], Nieuwstraat 32, +31 (0) 71 5142158. Great food in a somewhat higher price range.
  • Het prentenkabinet [16]. Just about the best culinary experience (in French oriented cuisine) Leiden has to offer (bring your wallet though) and situated in a monumental building opposite the Pieterskerk. Kloksteeg 25, 2311 SK Leiden +31 (0) 71 5126666.
  • Tandoori way Indian restaurant next to the Praethuis bar (see under drinking section) opposite the remains of the 'onze lieve vrouwe kerk' and Olive garden

For fast(er) food lovers there are several options:

  • Smulshop Spare ribs, Gyros and other fare. It seems to get mixed reviews though. Morsweg 40, 2312 AE, +31 (0) 71 5130819
  • AK-AL At the corner of the Haarlemmerstraat and the Pelikaanstraat (opposite the English pub called Bad Habits) serves delicious Turkish Pizza's on the go and the infamous 'Kapsalon' (French Fries, topped with doner kebak, lettuce, onions, cheese, spicy sauce and garlick sauce) which will fill you up for the rest of the week. It's also a bakery offering tasty Turkish and loaf-type breads and great croissants!
  • Verswinkel Great breadrolls made right in front of you. Botermarkt 3, 2311 EM +31 (0) 71 5141214.
  • Eazy Oriental style wok dishes. Freshly made, delicious and healthy. Breestraat 157, 2311 CN Leiden. +31 (0) 71 5138867
  • Maoz Falafel and more falafel and pretty good too. Haarlemmerstraat 61, 2312 DL, +31 (0) 5144424‎

If you don't find anything of your liking above, there's a plethora of places offering anything from French fries to Shoarma and Pizza and yes; there is a Mc Donalds (two in fact).

[edit][add listing] Drink

[edit] Bars

  • Einstein Great for lounging on summertime evenings.
  • De Burcht Grand cafe, a mix of 30's grandeur and 50's and 60's furniture.
  • Meneer Jansen Small but cosy cafe frequented by members of the city council and a lot of others as well.
  • De Kroeg Fun staff, fun atmosphere, fun times....often a regular spot for college students.
  • Roebels Tiny but usually packed student bar.
  • Cafe Storm Tiny and not so packed student bar.
  • Olo Rosso A bar for most of the week but in the weekends it turns into a club.
  • In den Oude Maren Poort Larger, and usually packed student bar.
  • Lemmy's Belgian beer bar. Free peanuts and digital fireplace!
  • De Twee Spieghels Cozy, friendly, fabulous location (near the Burcht and Hooglandsekerk).
  • Dranklokaal de WW Hidden in a small back alley opposing the Breestraat entrance of the Stadhuis, this place is hugely popular in the weekends. The place has been cut into 2 equal sections since the smoking ban came into effect and the smoking section is the biggest in Leiden
  • Praethuis A local haunt with a dark interior coupled with dark brown furnishings and finishings and mainly 60's and 70s music. It has a great terrace around the remains of the 'onze lieve vrouwenkerk' (of pilgrim fame).

[edit] Music and clubs

  • LVC [17] (in Dutch). Leiden's take on the music club. It's cramped, it's small and doesn't get too many of the big names but you can have a great time all the same. There are several parties organized there throughout the week, intersperced with live bands.
  • Qbus [18] (Dutch) Different types of live music and ranging from local heroes to international names.
  • Bar en Boos [19] (Dutch) All sorts of music and performances ranging from acoustic jam sessions to full on punk and metal performances. It's part of the 'vrijplaats koppenhinksteeg', which is a social initiative with a as of yet, uncertain future.
  • CityHall [20] (Dutch) (located at the back of the Stadhuis). Billed as a cafe/ restaurant it's really a bit of everyting and gets crowded on Friday and Saturday evenings. There is a DJ on these days.

[edit] Cinema

  • Lido/ Studio [21] (Dutch) Offers mostly regular hollywood fare. The 70's interior is in serious need of an upgrade.
  • Trianon [22] (Dutch) Grand old dame and with a brilliantly restored art deco/ art nouveau main theatre. Offers hollywood fare but also a smaller/ independent pictures.
  • Kijkhuis [23] (Dutch) Opposite olive garden's kitchen is a bit of a hole-in-the-wall type of place but still sports two small (ragged) theatres which show mostly arthouse films. It does the job but looks like a metalband performed there.

[edit] Theatre/ other

  • Stedelijk concertgebouw Leiden [24] (Dutch)is schedueled to be opened in September/ October 2009.
  • Leidsche schouwburg [25] (Dutch) A posh place for watching theatre and occasionally music (if you can get tickets)
  • De X [26] (Dutch) Multicultural stage for performers of jazz-, world, crossover and pop music as well as poetry and boogy nights.
  • Scheltema complex [27]. Offers musiscians, contemporary artists and scientists a place to get in touch with oneanother, leading to performances and expositions and such. There's also a restaurant.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

  • Stochemhoeve Camping [28] This is a family managed small camping located near a park and recreational area just outside of Leiden. Location: Cronesteyn 3, 2322 LH Leiden. Telephone +31 (0) 71 5721141.
  • Nieuw Minerva [29], Boommarkt 23, Leiden. Located in six prestigious 16th-century canal houses. Located in the centre of Leiden, it is close to Museums, the Academic Building and faculties of Leiden University.
  • De Doelen [30], Rapenburg 2, Leiden . The hotel is situated in an ancient Patrician mansion, built in 1638.
  • Golden Tulip, Schipholweg 3, Leiden. Located in a bland modern building just north of the railwaystation at Schipholweg 3, Leiden
  • Flying Pig Beach Hostel [31] Belongs to the same chain of hostels as the ones in Amsterdam. It's about 15 kilometres from Leiden and you have to take a bus to get there (Take bus no 232 or 44 from Leiden central station to Noordwijk Picketplein, from there it's a five minute walk). The adress is: Parallel Boulevard 208, 2202 HT, Noordwijk. The telephone number is + 31 (0) 713622533 and the email adress is: beachhostel@flyingpig.nl. For up-to-date information, check their website.

[edit] Get out

Leiden is a city in the Green Heart (Groene Hart) between the largest cities in Holland. It is surrounded by green meadows, little villages, and, in spring time, the world famous flower fields. From Leiden Central Station a bus (number 54) goes directly to the Keukenhof, an enormous park open from the end of March until the end of May, in which more than 7 million flower bulbs bloom. But you can also take your car or rent a bike and find the fields yourself. The route will lead you through lovely villages.

Leiden is also very close to the beach. Katwijk aan Zee and Noordwijk aan Zee are the closest seaside villages, at just 20 minutes by car. Be aware that on beautiful summer days, the car will probably be stuck in traffic. You can also take a bicycle, which will take you approximately 45 minutes.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!