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Langmusi

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Langmusi (郎木寺; Lángmùsì - Tibetan: Taktsang Lhamo) is a village on the border of Sichuan and Gansu provinces.

Understand[edit]

A sleepy village in a remote breathtaking location inhabited by a colorful mix of Han Chinese, Hui and Amdo Tibetans. It is said that the provincial borderline runs through the middle of town with Sertri Gompa in Gansu and Kirti Gompa located in Sichuan. The power struggles between the two Gompa may have been the reason for the border location. Both temples have distinct styles making both well worth the visit alone. The surounding mountains give off a very much alpine flair remenisant of rural Austria or Bavaria and perfect for hiking and horsetreking.

Currently there are many road works (09.2012) in the village, but the surrounding landscape is still breathtaking and the people there are really worth it.

UPDATE: The roadwork from 2012 has turned into an all-out construction project, including erecting an entire new section of town (30-40 brand new buildings!). It isn't necessarily a reason not to go, as the best part of visiting here is to do the horse-trekking anyways. This town will be 5-6 times bigger by 2015, so now is the time to go and experience it the way it used to be.

Get in[edit]

There is only one bus every day from Xiahe direct to Langmusi leaving at around 7 a.m. from the Xiahe Bus Station.

If you miss this bus, or if you can't get tickets, you can take any early morning bus to Hezuo (1 hour from Xiahe) and then take one of the Hezuo(合作)buses to Langmusi. There are a couple buses from Hezuo to Langmusi each day. There definitely is one leaving at 10:20AM.

When you get to Hezuo, you will need to take a taxi across town to the South Bus Station (Nan Zhan – 南站) where the buses leave for Langmusi.

If you were thinking of hiring a car to take you directly from Xiahe to Langmusi, be ready to pay a lot of money. It will cost you at least ¥350 to hire a car for the trip. The bus is only ¥ 71 per person. If you do end up taking a taxi, be sure to ask to take the "scenic route." The road is a little bumpier than the new highway, and a takes a little longer, but you pass beautiful grasslands, mountains, and tibetan villages along the way.

There are also direct buses to Zoige (Ruo'ergai) in northern Sichuan. There is currently no direct bus to Songpan but the situation may change, as a new highway was completed in 2007.

You can also catch a bus in Jiuzhaigou to Langmusi. There are multiple buses leaving every morning between 7am and 8am. The bus will let you off on the main road outside of Langmusi, not actually driving into town, leaving you with a 1+ km walk, or there will be cars around to get you into town (for a few yuan).

To get out of town up towards Xiahe, there is only one afternoon direct bus a day. You can get morning buses to Hezuo, then a cab to the West Bus Station, then catch a bus to Xiahe. There are many buses to Xiahe each day.

Get around[edit]

Your own two feet, a bicycle or maybe a pony.

See[edit][add listing]

  • Sertri Gompa (Dacanglangmu Saichisi) - temple where traditional Tibetian sky-burials are still practiced (last rites are private), located on northern hill.
  • Kirti Gompa (Dacangnama Ge'erdisi) - temple on the southern hill
  • Hui Mosque - located close to the Sichuan side temple near the enterance gate

Do[edit][add listing]

It's worth hiring an English speaking guide to explain the monasteries, sky burial ground and the gorge to you. Ask around in Leisha's restaurant.

One of the town's must-do activities is the horse trekking. The Langmusi Tibetan Horse Trekking Agency offers anything from 1 to 3 day horse treks where you can stay with real Tibetan nomads. The guides on all their trips are professional and experienced. Liyi, the owner at the horse trekking place speaks excellent English and is a great resource for any questions or tips about Langmusi. They also do biking trips and bike rentals. You can go to the grasslands by yourself with the bike or organize an amazing two-day homestay biketrip directly through them. They also own the Black Tent Cafe across the street(information under Drink below) Their website is really well done, and has a lot of good information: Langmusi Tibetan Horse Trekking

The end of the village closest to the main road is more Westernised, and closer to the monastery it becomes less so. The Sichuan side of town has just put in a brand new road so one hopes the Gansu side will follow suit (update October 2012: the road on the Gansu side seems to be under construction and is currently a big muddy mess). Passing through the monastery takes you up into the surrounding mountains, and there are various possible routes available to reach the summits and highs tablelands (4200m), though take care not to stray too far from a used trail or else you may have to retrace your steps to rejoin a viable route. Wild dogs live in the area and you may spot some while walking, grab a rock if need be. A school can be found near to the monastery, with private housing and a small playground.

If walking in the other direction from the village - towards the main road - one encounters an interesting sandstone formation or mesa whose top is accessible. Prayer flags are present here, and on the aforementioned higher peaks providing a great view of the Gansu monastery side.

Walking through Kirti Gompa and up the valley, you will reach the start of Namo Gorge. It is possible to walk for a considerable distance into the gorge and mountains beyond, being surrounded by amazing scenery and peace and quiet. You have to pay 30Y at the entrance to the monastery, which gets you access to the monastery itself and the gorge, but it is possible to bypass this if you walk up the road to the right of the ticket office, up and over the hill and down to the start of the gorge.

Buy[edit][add listing]

"Local artificial stuff", or craft items, are available from a number of shops, though as with many places in China, many are not particularly 'authentic' and you can find the same products over a very wide region. One or two shops towards the monastary end of town sell knives and you can watch the craftsman producing them.


AmdoCraft Cafe, link amdocraft on the main road to the Sichuan Monastery, has a good selection of locally made Tibetan Handicrafts, mainly made from yak- and sheep wool. You can also get here a good cup of coffee, Tibetan yoghurt and milk tea. Local Monks have visited and thoroughly enjoyed the cafe, saying that it "feels like home." It is closed in the winter months.

Eat[edit][add listing]

  • Black Tent Cafe. Nice and spacious cafe with cosy sofas, free WiFi, great coffee and tea from all over the world, plus a lovely roof top terrace. They have nice heaters under the table now too, so even if it's cold season, it's still nice to hang out there. This is also the only place in town that serves pizza, even serving a Yak pizza! Same owners as the Langmusi Tibetan Horse Trekking company across the street. You can even book your treks in the cafe.  edit


  • Lesha's Restaurant has been open for more than a decade here and has a great, lively atmosphere. Run by a muslim family that speak basic English, but are very friendly. The food is very good (try the apple-pie) and quite cheap and their couch is the best place in town for meeting other travelers.


  • Sichuan Restaurant. A little Restaurant with authentic Sichuan food. The owner do not speak English but both are very friendly. They have an English menu with an extra page where you can say if you want your meal more or less spicy for example. The food is very delicious and in comparison to Restaurants like Black Tent or Lesha's really cheap.  edit


  • THIS HAS BEEN REPORTED AS CLOSED. Snowy Mountain Cafe [1] The owner was originally an American named Eugene but now under the management of a wonderfully friendly Han women. They serve authentic Western and Local dishes. They can also provide all kinds of helpful info for travellers in this region. They are right next to the Langmusi Hotel. Lilly also helps with providing transportation connections (drivers)to nearby sights. They serve the best (real) coffee and pizza in town by far!

Drink[edit][add listing]

Sleep[edit][add listing]

  • Dacanglangmu Saichi Monastery's hotel on the road to Maqu. Owned by Saichi Lamasery, it is very clean. Shared bathrooms, hot water in the evening or on request.
  • Langmusi Binguan faces the main street but is in a courtyard.
  • Sana Hotel on the main street. Owned by a Muslim family. Very clean doubles cost ¥50. Shared toilets and showers, hot water in the evenings or on demand.
  • Zhaxi Guesthouse, (Along the road up to Namo Gorge (on the way to one of the monasteries)). Zhaxi's Guesthouse was simple and clean, with good shared hot water showers. Zhaxi (the owner) barely speaks any english, but loves to practice with his guests. He also arranges a fantastic tour to his hometown in Diebu, overnight including accommodation, transportation (2hrs), hiking guide with horse, and food. * Nomad Youth Hostel a YHA near Lisha restaurant ¥25/person/night.  edit

Get out[edit]

You can go south to Zoige and Songpan, or north to Hezuo (leaves at 2pm, takes 4 hours) and Xiahe ( leaves at 2pm).

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