Lagos
From Wikitravel
Contents
- For other places with the same name, see Lagos (disambiguation).
Lagos is the largest city in Nigeria. It is a huge city of somewhere between 10 and 20 Million people. Really, nobody can tell you accurately because the last census was in the mid 80's, although a new census was undertaken in March 2006.
[edit] Understand
Originally, the city was a Yoruba Settlement, known then as Eko, ruled by kings, which were conquered by neighbouring city state of Benin (which is not to be confused with the country of same name). It was subsequently, conquered and colonised by the Portuguese and then the British.
Lagos was famous for being the trading hub of many spices and metals. For a long period, it functioned as a slave trading post too, although it's hard to find remnants of this history in contemporary Lagos.
Due to its position as the centre for government and commerce in Nigeria, a large number of immigrants moved to Lagos from all over the sub-region, fuelling economic development. Unfortunately, successive governments failed to invest adequately in infrastructure for the growing population, leading to overcrowding and partial infrastruture failure.
As a result the government decided to create a purpose build capital city - Abuja - along the lines of Canberra and Brasilia. When this was mostly completed in the mid-nineties, most organs of the federal government were relocated to Abuja.
The loss of its capital status have not affected the attractiveness of Lagos as Nigeria's main area of economic activity due to its convenient location as a seaport, accessway to other West African countries, and its bubbly cosmopolitan culture. Most of the service businesses are located near the coast on the "islands" (Lagos and Victoria) while much of the heavy industry is based in the mainland. Most of the population of Lagos also live on the mainland.
Lagos is best travelled early in the morning (before dawn) at dusk, in evening or at weekends and public holidays when traffic is low. However,as would be expected in such a sprawling cosmopolis, please exercise caution in certain neighbourhoods at night - should you decide to go for a walk as muggings do occur. Do also keep an eye out for "Area Boys," as the local thugs, or street urchins are called.
However, many residential neighbourhoods have gates constructed on their main street entrances to keep away the unwanted. Such gates, manned by neighbourhood guards, often require a gatepass issued by your host, before you are allowed exit after dark.
ADVICE: Lagos is not for the novice traveller. The infrastructures regarded as usual for cities this large are just not here, yet. Travelling in and around Lagos can be difficult without a private driver which is moderately priced if negotiated with in a firm but friendly way. Price negotiation is absolutely a required skill in Lagos, but fortunately one can have a lot of fun learning it because of the way Nigerians themselves have fun applying it...negotiation is part of the social language and usually accompanied with laughs and smiles and loud talking. It is useful to remember that Nigerians, like most West Africa, have hundreds of years of market experience. Being relaxed, but eyes open, is the secret to Lagos - it is actually a fun city.
Nigerians will accept almost any gesture or excuse to have fun and share a laugh. Making new friends is easy but must be done with caution, as anywhere new. The traveler who connects with people in Lagos is almost guaranteed a wonderful people-experience. Lagos might be regarded as one of the top party cities but in its own unique niche. There is a diversity of restaurants but non-traditional food tends to be pricey. The national food is quite good, and one should try traditional Nigerian fare (Okra pulp, grilled goat kidney is very nice, but the Softball-sized land snails might look daunting but are also good, the sauces are outstanding on any dish). Nigerians just love to party. No wonder one of the favorite vacation getaway for Nigerians is Rio.
Having a personal contact is almost necessary to getting around Lagos. Travelling at night or in pre-light dawn is definitely not advised. Lagos' traffic congestion is world class and probably without equal anywhere on the globe; it must be negotiated with patience and acceptance. Pne can later wear the experience like a traveller's medal. One has experienced Lagos traffic full on and come away sane (but maybe not the same). Later memories are strong both positive and negative; one is drawn to revisit Lagos but the process one thinks about is like revisiting the moon, one supposes, for astronauts. One comes away from Lagos with new skills and a love of people. Pne tends to negotiate any price even in "western" department stores (and surprisingly often with results!) and there might be a tendency to drive for a while like Lagotians (have to lose that tendency quickly, usually).
[edit] Get in
You can fly in from most European cities (London, Frankfurt, Paris, Amsterdam, Madrid, Rome), Dubai, South Africa, Ethiopia, and Kenya. There are also direct flights from the United States (New York and Atlanta).
[edit] Get around
If you are not on a tight budget, you should hire a Car and Driver, usually available from most of the major hotels and the Airport. The price will be around ₦1,000 - ₦2,000 per hour, you will be expected to haggle. Talk to the drivers and find one you think will be able to communicate best with as they will be able to tell you things about the places you pass.
Use buses to move around the city if you know the routes. Larger Buses are called Molue and the smaller Mini-Bus type are called Danfo. Buses are often overcrowded to the point where the conductor must stand on the side, with the side door open. Taxis cost more than buses, typically 10 times the price, you will be expected to negotiate the price before you enter and pay on arrival. They are however much safer than buses, especially at night where Buses are often subjected to highway robbery. You should be certain to inspect the Taxi before you enter, Taxis are often in a poor state of repair, balding tires and worn shocks leading to a very bumpy, nauseating ride.
For travelling short distances, you can use motorbike Taxis called Okada. These motorbikes are quick, cheap and save a lot of walking but they are also very Dangerous. Okada accidents are very common and no safety equipment is provided. If you want to take the risk, you can safely halve their first price, and usually there are lots to choose from. Choose an older driver as the younger ones are cowboys.
[edit][add listing] See
Tafawa Balewa Square on the Lagos Island ; be careful never to go there at night as you will almost surely get mugged!
Badagry ; the ancient slave port, the wispering palms, the 'sun tan' beach, the bubbly Vespa Market
Abuja; the great Zuma rock ( one side is rumored to be a human face! )
Northern Nigeria ; the anciant city of Zaria and the Sokoto Sultanate
[edit][add listing] Do
Lagos is for tourists like England is for food. It's a stereotype and not really true, but you have to put the effort in to see it.
There are a lot of great beaches. Especially if you make the effort to get outside the side (like Badagari). Inside the city, Lekki is about as good as it gets.
There are also lots of markets to see, although it can be very tiring. Usually safe during the day.
There is the lekki Conservartory down on the lekki/Epe express way which is really good for relaxation, its a dense park with a few animals and birds, there are walkways and benches to rest on.
[edit][add listing] Buy
Unless you are in a supermarket or restaurant/bar with fixed prices, you will be expected to negotiate the price you pay for an item down to the lowest the vendor would sell. When you are stuck in traffic, expect to see hawkers selling anything from potatoes to toilet seats to the most graphic pornography. Expect any brand names in these informal markets to be fake, and should you wish to purchase them aim for a very low price.
On beaches, hawkers will be trying to sell their wares. Selling necklaces, fake wristwatches, fake sunglasses and wooden carvings. Don't be tempted to buy any animals, dead or alive, and avoid anything you are told has ivory in it, even though it is probably bone or plastic. There is little enough wildlife, with exception of lizards and insects, in Lagos and the environs as it is.
Beggars are also very common where there is traffic, best advice is if you feel like giving, don't give it to anyone who can walk, talk, see, hear and has all their limbs. Also be aware that giving beggars money from your car window can result in your car quickly becoming surrounded by other beggars.
If you hold a Visa, MasterCard or Maestro Credit/Debit card you can withdraw cash in Naira from various ATM's around Lagos. Visa machines can be found at Standard Chartered Bank. MasterCard/Maestro machines are found in Ecobank and some Zenith Bank branches.
Foreign currency, US Dollars, Pounds Sterling, or Euros can be exchanged in various places, usually near large hotels and the airport. These are not formal bureaux de change and you will need to negotiate the exchange rate. It is strongly recommended that you count your money in front of the exchanger, and don't be afraid to walk away if you are not happy with the deal. Be wary of your safety in moneychanging areas, and take care to make sure you are not followed when leaving them.
[edit][add listing] Eat
Ikoyi also has a lot of good places to grab a bite such as Double 4 and Albasha. (no longer there) On VI (Victoria Island) you will find a clean and nice lebanese restaurant - Lamia. Also on VI, in Picolo Mondo, is the only thing in Lagos that reminds a real espresso coffee.
Make sure not to miss the nigerian traditional "Pepper Soup" - the strongest can be found in Da Grotto bar, on VI.
Il Sirriso is great for Italian and Saipan is the best Chinese, plus has a great nightclub. Both are on VI.
[edit][add listing] Drink
Ikeja
- Africa Shrine in Ikeja. With Femi Kuti, son of the legend Fela Kuti.
- Lagbaja's Motherland, Opebi Road (in Ikeja).
Ikoyi
- Baccus Awolowo Road. A good, popular night club
- Eleven 45 Awolowo Road. A good, popular night club
Victoria Island
- La Casa: on Victoria Island. Very expensive, Local beer ₦900!
- Bungalow's: Akin Adeshola Street (Entrance Opposite Junction with Adeola Odeku), Fantastic stock of spirits, excellent service. Excellent food. Prices local beer ₦300, cocktails ₦1,000
- Planet 44: Akin Adeshola Street, A well stocked bar with good food and venue of an after hours nightclub K's Place
- Pat's Bar: Ajose Adeogun Street (Towards Ligali Ayorinde Street end), A sports bar with a rugby theme, Very popular with expatriates of all nationalities. Local beer ₦350, wine (glass) ₦500, wine (bottle) ₦2000+
- Saga VIII:
Terra Kulture is a restaurant, gallery and bookshop combined. It is located on VI and it is a good place to pick up some local art as well as a plate of African snails.
- Bottles:
Great Tex-Mex food and margarittas that are out of this world. Actually after a couple you will feel like your out of this world!
Jacks bar is ok but when Jacks closes everybody moves on to a club called WHY NOT it is open until 6am i think the charge for the vip room is 1000 niara about £4 and the bar prices are reasonable for Lagos 350-500 for a beer and the girls are very friendly all ways keep your eyes open
[edit][add listing] Sleep
Tourism is not big in Lagos. Unless you are very rich, hotels may not be an option. They're either very expensive or not too safe. The best thing to do is stay with people you know, which is fairly easy since Nigerians are very hospitable.
[edit] Budget
[edit] Mid range
- Lekki Inn, 911 Ken Uba Close, Lekki Peninsula (second street to the right off Ajiron Road, off Lekki Expressway (beside Chevron)), ☎ +234-1-877-0240 (info@lekki-inn.com), [1]. Caters mostly to executives from oil companies, banks, etc. Two fully-furnished chalets onsite can be rented for longer-term stays. Food is excellent, typically African or Continental cuisines. The rooms all have marble flooring, so you don't get the "wet" and "moldy" feel some of the other hotels have. The only downside is that there are just 12 rooms, albeit all large and luxurious, so you don't get to socialize too much onsite. Victoria Island with its bars and clubs is a 20-minute drive away, and the beaches are close by. US$50-100. edit
- Hotel Palais Royal 48, Balarabe Musa Crescent, Victoria Island, [2].
- Hotel Le Chateau 292E Ajose Adeogun, Victoria Island, [3].
Protea, a South African group, has three hotels in Lagos, all of acceptable standard but not cheap. The prices are reduced if you hold a group loyalty card, the ProKard.
In addition on Ikoyi in Glover St is a small, new serviced aparthotel called La Cour.
[edit] Contact
You will hardly be able to find your way in Nigeria especially the busy environ of Lagos unless you have been provided earlier direction.
[edit] Get out
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