El Aaiun is city in northern Western Sahara that was previously the capital of Spanish Sahara and has a population approaching 200,000.
Bus services connect El Aaiún to major transport hubs in southern Morocco, particularly Inezgane.
Road N1 from southern Morocco to El Aaiún is in good condition, checkposts are frequent.
Royal Air Maroc flies into El Aaiún from Casablanca, Agadir and Dakhla. There are regular buses from Marrakech.
El Aaiún's central sights can easily be explored on foot. Public transport has improved greatly since 2013 with a bus service that will only cost you the equivalent of about USD0.25. Petit taxis are MAD5 anywhere in town going up to MAD6 after 20:00. Extra may be charged to and from the airport but MAD10 should be the maximum you pay. Two people going to the same destination in a petit taxi will both ride for MAD5. Grand Taxi services connect to El Aaiún port, El Aaiún plage and places further afield.
The main roads are lined by shops selling non-descript Moroccan goods, the bird park seems to be closed forever and the adjoining tourism office is very well staffed but doesn't seem to have any ideas on how to spend your time either.
The dunes start on the other side of the small group of reeds and water. Walk over the reeds and stand in the dunes and look at the lights of town.
The town's main square is OK for people-watching, and you can easily observe the high per capita income of this town in comparison with most in Morocco.
Desert and deserted beaches are aplenty. Make the most of them.
Moroccan standard fare at most places, nothing to write home about. Wonderfully beefy camel meat available at butchers around town, dates of excellent quality in the markets. Barbecue, fruit and bread is king.
Gofia is a local juice in all Western Sahara cities.
Asking for a 'panache' (pronounced panashay) in most places will land you with a pint sized glass full of blended fruit. Ask for it without sugar if you like your fruit unadulterated. If you're lucky you'll get a 'royale' which will mean a topping of chopped fruit and nuts.
Hotel Parador on Rue Okba Ibn Nafia seems to have reopened after being used as an army base for years. Should easily be the best bet in town. Hotel Larkaoune is mainly occupied by UN troops, the atmosphere is gloomy, the service personnel try to avoid being helpful as far as possible.
Hotel Jodesa 233 Av. starts at MAD120, hotel Mekka right nextdoor asks for MAD200 for a double room with shared bathroom. This is a comfortable spot near the main plaza in town. There are cheaper hotels available (MAD 60-70) few hundred meters down the road.
It is easy to see all the sights and sounds of El Aaiún one day. However, with the Sahara all around and the ocean nearby, it is easy to link a trip here with some other cities: