From Wikitravel

La Paz is the administrative capital of Bolivia, while Sucre is the constitutional capital and the seat of the Supreme Court. La Paz was established in 1542, and is located in the Andes mountains. Altitude of the city ranges from about 4058 meters (13,313 feet) above sea level in El Alto (where the airport is located) to 3100 meters (10,170 feet) in the lower residential area; that makes it the highest national capital in the world.

The sight from the air as one flies into La Paz is incredible. First, one sees the sprawling shantytowns of El Alto, slowly giving way to the sight of La Paz itself, clinging tenuously to the sides of what looks like a large gash in the earth.

[edit] Understand

[edit] Orientation

La Paz was built in a canyon created by the Choqueyapu River (now mostly built over), which runs northwest to southeast. The city's main thoroughfare, which roughly follows the river, changes names over its length, but the central tree-lined section running through the downtown core is called the Prado.

La Paz' geography (in particular, altitude) reflects society: the lower you go, the more affluent. While many middle-class paceños live in high-rise condos near the center, the really rich houses are located in the lower neighborhoods southwest of the Prado. The reason for this division is that the lower you go in the city, the more oxygen there is in the air and the milder the weather is. And looking up from the center, the surrounding hills are plastered with makeshift brick houses of those struggling in the hope of one day reaching the bottom.

The satellite city of El Alto, in which the airport is located, is spread over a broad area to the west of the canyon, on the altiplano.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By air

El Alto International Airport (IATA: LPB) (ICAO: SLLP), El Alto. This is the world's highest international airport; at 13,313 feet/4,058 meters above sea level, it's almost half as high as a jetliner's cruising altitude,!! and takeoffs take a bit longer due to the thin air. There is an airport departure tax of $24 for international flights, Bs14 for domestic flights.

Most South American airlines (TAM, LAN, TACA, etc.) serve El Alto Airport as well local airline Aerosur. Most international flights will make a stop over in Santa Cruz to pick up or drop off passengers. American Airlines is currently the only U.S. carrier serving Bolivia, with one daily flight to Miami.

Aerosur (a newer, private airline) also serves major domestic destinations. LAB (Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano) was Bolivia's national airline until April 2007, when services were suspended by the Bolivian government due to financial problems.

From the airport, the official rate for a taxi into central La Paz is Bs 50 (about USD 6). Shared vans cost about Bs 4 (USD 0,50).

[edit] By bus

The main bus terminal is located on Av. Ismael Montes, near the upper end of the Prado. Note that buses arriving from Lake Titicaca (the route for entering overland from Puno, Peru) terminate at a plaza near the city cemetery (Cementerio) farther to the west.

Buses leaving La Paz usually stop in El Alto to pick up more passengers. It sometimes takes almost an hour until you really leave the city.

Seven or eight hours by bus from Cochabamba.

Three hours by bus from Oruro.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By bus

There are three types of shared public transportation in La Paz: regular buses or "micros"; shared vans, called "mini buses", and shared taxis running set routes advertised on the windshield, called "trufis". The former cost Bs 1,30 while the second are Bs 1,50-2,30 depending on duration. A trufi will generally cost you Bs 3. All types have their routes indicated on the windshield, but mini buses have the bonus of fare collectors hanging out the side, yelling out routes in a rapid, auctioneer-like manner. You can hail a bus or mini bus anywhere; to get off, just yell out "¡voy a bajar!"

[edit] By taxi

The easiest way to get around is by taxi. They aren't metered, so agree on a fare before boarding; a ride within downtown should be about Bs 6-8. If you want to go further, ask two or more taxi drivers before boarding. A normal ride by taxi from downtown to a place within the city won't cost more than 20 Bs.

[edit] By foot

If you ever find yourself to be lost, in general the easiest thing is to simply walk downhill. You will eventually find yourself on the Prado or another main avenue, then You'll be able to take a taxi to the downtown, if you are on the southside of the city (Zona sur)

[edit][add listing] See

• Sagarnaga Street, just south of Plaza San Francisco, is La Paz' main tourist strip. It's mainly a market street with artesano and souvenir stores, but you'll also find budget hostels, tour and travel agencies, cafes, and lots and lots of backpackers. Don't be suckered by the roving sellers of "trilobite-in-a-rock".
• The Witches' Market (Mercado de Hechiceria or Mercado de las Brujas) is on Calle Linares between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz. Vendors sell llama fetuses and dried frogs for Aymara rituals, as well as soapstone figurines and aphrodisiac formulas. This street is also the best place to pick up a charango or other Bolivian musical instrument.
• The Mercado Negro ("Black Market"), though not very clandestine, is quite comprehensive, selling clothing, household items, liquor, and other products in its many blocks.
• Eloy Salmon Shops on this street sell cheap electronics.
• Calle Jaen is one of the few places in the city with preserved colonial buildings, currently housing several interesting museums.
• Plaza Murillo contains government buildings and the city cathedral.
• The Valle de La Luna - surreal, weathered rock. Just outside the city. Take a local bus, or join a tour.

[edit] Museums

• Museum San Francisco [1], Plaza San Francisco. This restored religious complex has housed some of Bolivia's most important historical moments, including the birth of the Independence Revolution of 1809. Also, one can climb the church tower to get a panoramic view of both the indigenous and Mestiza quarters. Displays are in Spanish and English along with personal guides.
• Tiwanaku Museum
• Museum of Contemporary Art (Museo de Arte Contemporaneo), Av. 16 de Julio 1698 (Prado). The permanent collection upstairs (Bs10 admission) contain many works by renowned Aymara painter Mamani Mamani. The downstairs gallery containing work by students and up-and-comers is free.
• Coca Museum [2], Calle Linares 906. A favorite of foreign tourists, this small museum details the history and significance of the coca plant, including the effect of the U.S. War on Drugs. The displays are in Spanish, but booklets of complete translations in other languages are provided. According to the museum, crack cocaine is the greatest epidemic since the Plague in the Middle-Ages. And yes, there are free samples of coca leaf for visitors.
• Musical Instrument Museum (Museo de Instrumentos Musicales de Bolivia), Calle Jaen 711. Displays a huge collection of sound-producing devices from Bolivia and beyond, some of which you can play yourself. The museum was founded by charango master and inventor Ernesto Cavour, and some of his creations on display (such as multi-bodied guitars) are downright bizarre.
• Museum of Precious Metals (Museo de Metales Preciosos Precolombinos), Calle Jaen 777. Pre-Columbian treasures in silver and gold.
• Submerged Museum (Museo Subterraneo), in front of the city stadium. Hardly deserving the name "museum", it's essentially a small outdoor plaza sunk into the ground with a huge replica Tiwanaku monolith in the middle of it.

[edit] Views

La Paz is a city which can be a sight in itself, and there are several viewing places or miradores offering impressive panoramas.

• Parque Laikacota, at the top of Av. Ejercito west of the city center. The best panorama from within the bowl, with clear views of the city and the rugged terrain to the east, all the way to Mt. Illimani. Admission is Bs 3.5.
• Mirador Monticulo, next to Plaza España. This small park (free entry) has a church and lots of trees which block much of the city, but the clear view of Illimani makes it an evening hotspot for couples.
• In the heart of downtown, Av. Camacho points straight to Illimani, and from the intersection with the Prado it's framed by skyscrapers in an interesting juxtaposition.

[edit][add listing] Do

[edit] Peñas

One of the most recognizable aspects of Andean culture is its folk music, which you can enjoy at a number of peñas, or music clubs.

• Huari, Calle Sagarnaga 329. Its location makes it the convenient choice for foreign tourists, so be prepared for extreme tourist prices and slightly tacky decor. (The ancient Incas probably didn't have black lighting.) Nonetheless, the music and dance performances are excellent.
• Marka Tambo Calle Jaen 710. Considered among the best for serious fans of the music.

[edit] Cinemas

• Try Monje Campero at the beginning of Av.16 de julio.
• Also you can go to 16 de Julio near to Plaza del Estudiante.
• Despite the best efforts to censor it Cine Azul (Latin America's premier underground bluey showhouse) is still up and running at the beginning of Av.16 de julio. The steam is literally dripping off the walls! (Amongst other things)

[edit] Internet

Internet cafés are on each street corner in La Paz. Current standard fare is 2-4 Bs. per hour. There are four internet cafés around Plaz Mendoza at this price, all with good connection.

[edit][add listing] Buy

[edit] Handicrafts

Fair trade shop - 958 Calle Linares: Check out the amazing value weavings upstairs, much better quality than the stuff on the street and not that much more expensive (sometimes cheaper even!) Also very nicely mounted with wood panels and ready for hanging. To quote their mission statement "... for the generation of economic revenues that contribute to the improvement of life quality of (the weavers´) families".. So by buying here you also support a good cause!

[edit] Maps

La Paz is a good place for buying maps of the country, but be aware that Bolivian maps have a reputation of containing errors. Topographical maps are available in 1:50 000, 1:100 000 and 1:250 000. The most popular maps, including the 1:250 000 version of Cordillera Real and the 1:50 000 version of Volcan Sajama are sold by street vendors that roam Calle Sagarnaga and from stalls along el Prado. But the best place to buy maps is the "Instituto Geografico Militar", IGM. The instituto has two offices in town, listed below.

• Edificio Murillo No. 100, Calle Juan XXIII Parallell to Calle Murillo at the end of Calle Rodríguez. This office is likely to be closest to where you stay and sometimes has as map or two on offer, but most often asks you to come back mañana when they still don't have the map you want. It's has a nice atmosphere though, and makes a nice visit for mapophiles needing that fix of fresh map air.
• Oficina Central, Estado Mayor General, Av. Saavedra No. 2303. This is the place to go, but a little out of the way. It is said to be open afternoons, but it's best to visit between 9 a.m. and 11 a.m. Closed if there's a soccer game in the nearby Stadium. Take a micro marked "E. Mayor" from Plaza San Fransisco. The unmarked entrance is 20 m down Av. Saavedra from the main car entrance to the Estado Mayor. Surrender your passport in the window marked IGM, get a number tag to hang around you neck and walk down the road and to the left. Many maps are only available in copies for 30 Bs a sheet. An original is 40 Bs.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Most of the fancier restaurants in La Paz are at the bottom of the Prado, around the vicinity of Plaza Isabel La Catolica and Plaza Avaroa.

• Utama, top floor of Plaza Hotel, Av. 16 de Julio 1789 (Prado). With its fabulous view of the city, the Utama has served the likes of Fidel Castro and Alberto Fujimori (embattled former President of Peru), yet the main dishes (Bolivian and international, in portions ample for two) are only around Bs 50 (USD 6.50).
• Angelo Colonial, Calle Linares 922. A dark, bohemian cafe set in an old mansion decorated with scads of antiques. Serving Bolivian food and the best drip coffee in La Paz.
• Tambo Colonial, in Hotel Rosario. Lavish breakfast buffet for Bs 20 (USD 2.50), great international and local food at night. Try the Lake Titicaca trout with Beni almonds: one of the best dishes I've had in Bolivia. Not open for lunch.
• Naira, Calle Sagarnaga 161. Catering mostly to travelers (and guests of the hotel -- see below), but a good sampling of Bolivian dishes. Expensive.
• Alo Cubano, Av. Aniceto de Arce. Best place to pretend you're back in the fifties plotting a pan-American revolution with Fidel and Che.
• Contigo Peru, second floor of Edificio Alameda (on the Prado). Good ceviche and other seafood.
• New Tokyo, Av. 6 de Agosto 2932
• Eli's New York Deli, on the Prado. Try ordering with a thick New York accent and see what you get. Prices gone sky high this year.
• Sultan, San Miguel, Zona Sur. Great Arabic fastfood in a tiny setting. Try the falafel for 7 Bs. Order a "super" for 10 Bs if you're hungry and be there for lunch when the boss isn't around (bigger portions).
• There's a string of inexpensive pizza and hamburger joints on the west side of Avenida 6 de Agosto south of Plaza del Estudiante. Sergio's is considered the best, and is good for checking upcoming music venues.
• Pizzeria Italia, Calle Ilampu 809, serves nice breakfasts with a friendly smile.
• La Mia Pizzeria, Calle Ilampu, below one of the two "Pizzeria Italia" branches on Calle Ilampu. Cheaper than "Italia" with more american style pizzas. 1.2 l beer is USD 2. Take-away available.
• Al amir, Murillo 824, has nice Arabic food.
• 100% Natural, Calle Sagarnaga 95. The cheapest and most popular backpacker café on Sagarnaga. Often full, especially around 11 a.m., but serves huge sandwiches and great vegetarian burgers in a cosy atmosphere.
• The Star of India, Curry House / Take-Away can be found practically next door to Sol y Luna on calle Cochabamba - The best curry in La Paz people say (and also can deliver to your hotel). Open from 12am for lunch.
• Ram Jam, Presbitero Medina, 2124. Great American burgers, Fish and chips and Jill's famous original Tikka Masalla Curry. Veggie food too.

[edit][add listing] Drink

[edit] Cafes

• Alexander The Great, Av. 16 de Julio 1832 and other locations. Many thought the legendary Macedonian slayer had long since died. Not so infact, although he is considerably tamer after a rough encounter with a fiery cholita.
• Blueberries, Av. 20 de Octubre 2475. This café serves af very delicious coffee, and also has a very appealing breakfast menu. The café is situated at the east end of Plaza Avaroa, where you may also find an "Alexanders Coffee".
• Pepe's Coffee Bar, Jimenez 894. Decent coffee and a nice calm getaway close to the tourist ghetto. Sandwiches are disappointingly small, but tasty. The "Trekker´s Breakfast" is huge and delicious.

[edit] Bars

• Oliver and his Travellers, 1014 Calle Murillo & Calle Tarija, if novelty acts are your thing this is a great way to escape the stress of high altitude. Olly, an English ex-pat, has brought a gang of travelling folk from the West of Ireland deep into the Andes in an attempt to create some champion greyhounds from the local dogs. Success has been moderate so far but the resolute man from Sheffield says the coursing experiment has really captured local hearts and minds.
• Sol Y Luna, Calle Murillo, is a Dutch owned traveller's hangout serving a good menu and mid-range prices. Good atmosphere, different areas, free wi-fi zone, television and a **NEW** Pool Table.
• The Lounge, Calle Presbitero Medina 2527. This is a place which is fairly different for La Paz. Owned by an American and her Bolivian husband, it is probably the chillest bar environment Sopocachi, plus it has a full menu which boasts delicious dishes and which you can order until 12:00 a.m. You will find a mix of locals, foreigners passing through and foreigners who live in La Paz enjoying the style and comfort of the 'lounge' -- couches, fireplace, martinis, good music, djs on the weekend, and live music on Thursdays. Good service and of course, English is spoken. Open late. Update: It seems this nice place has been closed. The doors are closed since january 1st, 2008, Call before going.
• Irish, on Plaza Avoroa, pathetically named Irish themed bar owned by two Argentinian benders. Food is overpriced but good, and the cocktails are reasonable, though behind the above mentioned bars. Mostly frequented by Bolivians and should be scorned by real Irish people.
• Traffic, in Sopocachi is a bar with a good atmosphere and fairly good music. There is a large dance floor and a comfortable bar.
• Antique Pub, at Pichincha 662 has recorded rock music, and all sorts of old things including fob watches, photographs, a kid's tricycle and a six shooter to keep you amused. They serve food too.

[edit] Clubbing

• Mongo's, Is not a club or a bar but a way of life, located at Hermanos Manchego 2444, is one of the popular places for travellers. It also attracts many locals, known in backpacking circles as "gringo chasers". Gringo males will have no problem getting their bone smooched at this little gem of a place. It's open everynight till around 3:30 AM.
• Ram Jam Presbitero Medina 2124, near Plaza Avaroa , is another popular place, It's open till 4 AM, the new legal limit for serving alcohol in La Paz. It certainly pales in comparison to Mongo's if you want to find only gringos. It's the place to meet locals. Ram Jam also offers the only microbrew Saya Beer. They have a very drinkable ale and dark Bock called Saya Negra on tap at this bar. In addition to the microbrew, Ram Jam boasts the world´s highest oxygen bar, OZONE.
• Forum, Near Plaza Espana is a mostly Bolivian hangout though is La Paz's only proper disco venue. Upper class Bolivians frequent the establishment very dressed up. Worth a look if you're missing a big club with big pretensions.
• Gitanas, Zona Sur, Calle 8 de Calacoto, is a bar/club hangout for upper class youth of La Paz's South Zone.
• Hentai, Zona Sur, Coto Coto, is a pretty hip club in La Paz's rich South Zone that's slightly on the right side of pretentious. Good alternative to Mongo's or RamJam if you're sick of bumping into Gringos all the time. Dress well.
• Orange Club, Av. 6 de Agosto, Sopocachi, is a new club which boasts two dance areas, one techno the other typical dance music. Co-owned by Rick of 'Sol y Luna' and 'The Star of India' fame. Good mix of locals and gringos.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

If you do not want to plan where to stay overnight, you can do that in loco by walking on calle Sagarnaga or calle Illampu. These streets are merged into fairs and museums, so are full of people all day long. There are many different hotels in all price ranges. There are about 8 Bolivianos(Bs) per dollar(2006). Be sure to inspect your room before signing the register.

[edit] Hostels

• Hostal Illimani Calle Illimani #1817 In Barrio Miraflores, a few blocks from the Stadium, 591-2-220-2346. Basic and secure accommodations with shared bath and sink in room. Ms. Filomena is the manager who keeps an eye on the place and is always happy to help. Has a courtyard and places to wash and dry clothing. Expect to pay 25 b for a single. Doubles are available. Is not in the normal city central tourist area. If you want to be by the tourist stuff, do not stay here. If you want less gringos around this is a good place.
• El Carretero, about 5 blocks north of San Francisco, dorm for 20 Bs. Basic. Gets a lot of "Artisans" staying there.
• Hostal Austria, Calle Yanacocha 531, 235-1140. Very popular with backpackers , offering warm water, friendly staff and a central location. Singles Bs35, shared room Bs30.
• El Solario, Calle Murillo 776. Another backpacker joint. Warm water, shared bathrooms, laundry service and OK staff. Singles Bs35, dormitory Bs30.
• Hostal Naira, Calle Sagarnaga 161, 235-5645, Fax 231-1214, [3]. In business since 1975, with a good restaurant in the basement and a popular cafe (Coffee Banais) on the ground floor.
• Hosteria Blanquita, Santa Cruz 242, is a nice place, with a friendly staff, offering doubles for 70 Bs.
• Hotel Continental, top end of Calle Illampu. Doubles with shared bath are 80 Bs. 10% discount with HI-card.
  
• Adventure Brew Hostel and Brew Too ,Avenida Montes 533, ph:(5912)2461614, Beds, Brews, BBQs, and Bikes, is the motto at this socialable one-of-a-kind hostel, with glass walls letting the light shine through all five levels. Adventure Brew Hostel has it´s own micro-brewery on-site, and guests can enjoy sipping cold Saya brews from the rooftop bar or any of the many common social areas. The hostel offers all the great facilities and services you would hope for and even more, including free breakfast with unlimited free pancakes, free internet, free Wi-Fi, free DVD’s movies and one free beer every day, BBQs every night, and the World's Highest Beer Spa! The hostel is an active and social place all day, but the evenings bring it up a notch in the restaurant and bar upstairs. Adequately distanced from the upstairs activity are comfortable private and dorm rooms, where quiet hours allow for a good sleep. It's so popular they've had to build an overflow in a grand 1880s residence a few minutes up the road called The adventure Brew too. Prices start at 46 bs/dorm bed.
• Hostal Cactus, Calle Jimenez. Kitchen, laundry service, lousy Nestle instant coffee maker, rooftop terrace, nice quiet street. Very popular with the pseudo-hippie types. Can be very loud outside the rooms near the employees´ reception area (Friday night fiesta time!). 30 Bs for privates (10 Bs for lentil soup).
• Loki Backpackers Hostel, Calle Loayza 420. Brand new hostel by the bona fide backpackers who brought you Loki Cusco and Loki Lima. Loki La Paz is set in the beautifully restored 100 year old hotel Viena and boasts the world´s highest Irish Bar. Services include real duvets, comfortable beds, real hot showers, free massage from early morning receptionist Richard, free breakfast, evening meals, free internet and Wi-fi, Airport Pick Up, Secure Lockers, friendly english speaking staff, Tv room with DVDs and cable ( for sports fans ). Prices start at 36Bs for a dorm. Matrimonial and Twin rooms also available.
• Hotel Majestic Calle Santa Cruz. Splurge just a little and for 110 bolivianos you get a nice comfy double with tv (loads of movie channels) and private bathroom with hot shower. All in the heart of the backpacker area. Breakfast is also included, but isn´t great.
• Wild Rover Backpackers Hostel, Calle Comercio 1476. New Backpackers with extra wide beds, bar, breakfast and free internet. Mainly used by anglophone people. Dorms from Bs. 36. Phone (591) 2 2116903.
• Inkaterra Backpackers Home, across the bus terminal, singles from Bs. 30. Excellent location.

[edit] Mid-range

• Hotel España, Av. 6 de Agosto 2074, 244-2643, [4]. Located in the Sopocachi district close to numerous nice restaurants, the España has a charming garden courtyard as well as a solarium. There's a single net-connected PC in the lobby. Singles $24, doubles $34.
• Hotel Rosario, Av. Illampu 704, 245-1658, [5]. Located in the Aymara District close to the Witches Market and many touristic attractions. Has a colonial style building with sunny patios. Free Internet and WiFi. Complimentary tea and mate de coca. Singles $28-$31, doubles $39-$43. Book ahead; it fills up.

[edit] Splurge

• Ritz Apart Hotel, Plaza Isabel La Catolica 2478, [6]. Five stars and all suites in the heart of Sopocachi.
• Hotel Europa, Tihuanaco 64, 231-5656, [7]. Luxury hotel located just off the central Prado.
• Radisson Plaza Hotel La Paz, Av. Arce 2177, [8]. Luxury hotel situated in Sopocachi in the heart of La Paz.

[edit] Stay safe

The altitude of La Paz is well within the zone where altitude sickness could be a problem, especially for those arriving from at or near sea level. (Just spending a day or two at an intermediate elevation may not be enough.) It's is highly recommended that you have adequate travel insurance, familiarize yourself with the symptoms of altitude sickness, and inform your physician to what elevation you will be traveling (up to 4,000 meters/13,000 ft. for La Paz, and 6,000 meters/20,000 ft. if you want to climb Huayna Potosi). Despite being near the equator, it does occasionally snow a little in La Paz during the middle of the year, and packing some warm clothing is a must year-round.

In crowded areas be careful for pickpockets and bagslashers. A common trick is that one person spills something on your clothes, and while you or he wipes it off another person lifts your wallet or slashes your bag. Be vigilant when checking into a hotel or hostel. Keep a hand on all your bags/belongings at all times. Acting as if they work for the hotel, opportunist thieves will create a diversion and snatch the nearest unattended bag.

If you are approached by plain-clothed police officers don't show any valuables or your passport. And certainly don't get in a taxi with them. Undercover police are strictly ordered not to hassle tourists. There have been several cases of muggings and things going missing from bags or luggage after "drug searches". Insist on being taken to the police station before giving them access to your things. If you can, call the 110, which is the Bolivian number for emergencies . Take care - an Austrian couple was found murdered in 2006 after following false police into a taxi.

There have been several cases of violent muggings in taxis. Only take Radio Cabs (they will have the telephone number and their call centre listed above the cab). The taxis, or Gypsy Cabs, have no boarding above the taxi and have taxi written on the side, they are dangerous to take at night, as many of the drivers are paid to drive tourists to specific locations for muggings. Be especially careful if you are at one of the illegal after-hours bars such as Fin Del Mundo, as most of the muggings happen in taxis from these locations. Lock the doors and don't allow other people to share the journey with you.

La Paz is a very safe city, and if you keep your wits about you there shouldn't be any problems. Operating (not just bringing) a laptop computer or anything containing a hard drive is a risk. Most hard drives sold today safely work up to 3,000 meters/10,000 ft. La Paz exceeds this by one-third. While you may get by without anything bad happening, the hard drive could be destroyed (disc crash) and you will lose your data and installed software (even after returning to sea level). At the very least, you should back up your data before arriving. The high elevation won't subsequently "stress" the hard drive though, assuming nothing happens during your visit.

[edit] Get out

The most popular day trips from La Paz are to Tiwanaku, Chacaltaya, and Lake Titicaca, though the latter (especially Copacabana) is pushing it a bit in terms of time.

Another popular daytrip is the bike ride down the world's most dangerous road or Death Road. It's a 64km long scenic ride downhill to Coroico. There was an average of 100 motor fatalities a year (though in the eight years that companies have been biking down the road, there have only been 10 biking fatalities), a world record, mostly due to the Bolivian driving style than to the road itself. Although it's a narrow, winding road with big drops on the side, going down by bike is probably the safest way to get to Coroico and there are several tour agents in La Paz offering the trip.

• Swiss Bolvian Adventures Friendly and helpful staff, they cover all the main tours in Bolivia and are a climbing and adventure specialist. Find them in: Handal Center, ground floor, Of.6 just in front of the main Post Office in Av. Mariscal Santa Cruz, near to San Francisco Square (005912 2406470) www.andes-bolivia.ch
• Bolivian Astrid Tours, Sagárnaga 389 (esq. Illampu), (591-2)2116756. Recommended tour agent with good equipment and a low price.
• Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking, Av. 16 de Julio #1490 (Edificio Avenida, Ground Floor, Office #10), (591..., is the one mostly recommended by the guidebooks, although a little more expensive ($55 for the bare-bones Death Road trip, $75 for a bike with both front- and rear-suspension), you get what you pay for, the guides are great and the bikes are high quality, all have disc brakes and are well maintained. It also offers a wide range of other mountain biking trips, and contrary to the guidebooks it now operates on Mondays as well as a beefed up operation over the rainy season.
• Topas Bolivia, [9]. This company is managed by international standards, and receives funds for developing sustainable tourism.

For those needing to travel this road by bus (on their way to Rurrenabaque, for example) there's now a new, half-complete paved road down to Coroico. Not all bus companies take it, though, so inquire when you buy your ticket. Bolivian officials close this new road at seemingly random times for construction (which has been ongoing for the last 12 years).

A lot of travel agencies on Calle Sagarnaga and Calle Illampu organize climbing. The most popular mountain is Huayna Potosi. Travel agents will carry any tourist to the top for US$100-150.