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WARNING: Although the Kurdistan Regional Government administered area has significantly greater stability and statistically a lower risk of terrorism compared with the rest of Iraq, this does not include Kirkuk or remote areas bordering Turkey. If you must visit these areas consult your embassy and see War zone safety.

Kurdistan refers to portions of Turkey, Iraq, Iran and Syria, however only the Iraqi region of Kurdistan is discussed here. See the articles on Turkey, Iran, and Syria for information regarding the other regions of Kurdistan.

[edit] Regions

Iraqi Kurdistan refers to the 4 Kurdish northern Iraqi Provinces, which are autonomous of the central Iraqi government and ruled by the Kurdistan Regional Government. These provinces achieved de facto independence after an uprising in 1991 and their autonomy has now been enshrined into the Iraqi federal constitution. The 4 Kurdish Provinces are, Arbil, At-Ta'mim, As-Sulaymaniyah, and parts of Diyala and Ninawa.

[edit] Cities

The major cities controlled by the KRG are:

• Hawler (ancient Arbil)
• Sulamaniya
• Dohuk
• Zakho
• Lalish
• Kirkuk (not safe)
• Ruwanduz
• Raniya
• Xanaqen
• Qaladze.

[edit] Destinations

Kurdistan is, at certain times of the year, a land of rugged beauty, characterised by mountains, ravines, waterfalls and natural water springs. It has long been famed in Middle Eastern literature as a paradise on earth, owing to its plentiful scenes of natural beauty which are in such contrast to the somewhat arid scenes so prominent in surrounding areas. However, don't expect particularly beautiful landscapes in the dry summer.

• Hawler Citadel: There is a 4,000 year old castle right in the middle of the Kurdistan regional Capital, Hawler (also known as Erbil). Hawler is one of the world's contenders for the most ancient continuously inhabited city, having a history stretching back to the days of ancient Babylon. The site of the famous battle between Alexander the Great and King Darius, is also a short drive from Arbil city and can be fascinating for history buffs. Nowadays, the citadel (controlled officially by the Peshmerga - Kurdistan military) continues to be the main attraction, along with some slightly confusing souks beneath. The city is expanding in all directions, with the recent development of a huge shopping mall.

• Parastaga Zardasht: A recently discovered ancient Zoroastrian/Mithradate temple in Duhok province.

• Chemi Rezan: The famous caves in which the earliest human ceremonial burial site was discovered by german archeologists. The area is now carefully protected, however access is still possible.

• Kirkuk citadel: The ancient citadel of the city of Kirkuk, another millenia old monument. - Note that Kirkuk is not considerd safe at present.

• Haj Omaran: A ski resort in the north of Hawler province.

• Gali Ali Bag: The highest waterfall in the middle east.

• Bexal: Another beautiful waterfall.

• Jinokan: Yet another waterfall.

• Zakho bridge: The oldest example of a open arch brdge in the middle east, dating back to Abbasid times.

• Dokan lake: A large lake laying at an altitude of 900m.

• Lalish': "Holy See" of Yazidis

• Numerous religous sites: Especially of the Judeo-christian faiths, such as the tomb of the prophet Daniel in Kirkuk province, the 9th century St. Thomas monastery and Jewlakan, Jewish quarter of Silamani, with its numerous newly renovated synagogues.

[edit] Understand

Having been spared the war of 2003, Kurdistan-Iraq is a very different place from southern Iraq. With a minimal level of terrorist activity and massive economic development, Kurdistan is fast becoming a "gateway to Iraq" with high levels of foreign investment and development of infrastructure.

Be careful when discussing nationalist issues which many Kurds feel strongly about. Also read up on the Al-Anfal campaign by Saddam Hussein to exterminate droves of Kurds in the late 80s - although this was over twenty years ago, the event coloured the last few decades of Kurdish history. There are several powerful reminders of it, such as the Amna Suraca prison in Suleymaniyah.

In general, people are very friendly, so be open to new experiences.

[edit] Get in

Citizens of the EU, the US, Canada, Japan and Australia are given a free stamp on arrival. Most other nationalities must produce a valid "Iraq - Kurdistan Region" visa on arrival. However, you will have to report to the Residency Office within 10 days of your arrival. This involves many forms to fill out, around $30 USD in fees as well as a compulsory blood test to check for Hep C and HIV. Be prepared to wait for around 2-3 hours throughout this whole process.

Border control is fairly strict (understandably). If you have a contact in Kurdistan, come armed with their name and address. If you don't, make sure you have a very good idea of what exactly you will be doing and where you will be staying. You are also more likely to get in if travelling with someone else, and if you are well-dressed.

[edit] By plane

Kurdistan is subserved by 2 international airports:

• Hawler international Airport (HIA) http://www.hawlerairport.org/news.php
• Silamani International Airport (SIA) http://www.sulairport.net/news.php

There aren't many flights (very few to Europe) but give the internet a trawl and you might find something. It'll be expensive, too.

[edit] By bus

You can take buses from Istanbul to Silopi, the closest town on the Turkish side, and then take a shared taxi across the border to Zakho, the closest town to the border on the Iraqi side. If coming from Syria, don't attempt to cross straight from Syria to Iraq - extremely bad idea. Instead, get to Al-Qamishli in Syria, walk across the border to Nusaybin, and ask around for a bus to Silopi. To get to Al-Qamishli from Damascus is about 9 hours, and to get from Nusaybin to Silopi is about 4 hours.

Further advice on entry on these routes can be found at:

• http://www.kurdistancorporation.com/

[edit] Get around

[edit] By taxi

Take a shared taxi from the garages at each city. Buses are not safe/may go through Kirkuk or Mosul. Taxis are not that cheap - sometimes as much as 30,000 IQD - but they are basically the only way around.

[edit] By plane

Air travel between Silamaniya and Hawler is available and cheap (around 100$ for a round trip), although this is only a 2 hour trip by road.

[edit] By train

The railway is not yet operational, although there are plans to refurbish this line which was once the final leg of the "orient express" railway.

[edit] Talk

Kurdish is the official language and most widely spoken. You will be able to find people to understand basic Arabic and basic English. Also, higher learning institutes produce teenagers eager to practise their foreign language "skills" in many towns and a large number of expat Kurds have returned home, bringing with them languages as diverse as Swedish and Japanese.

[edit] Food

Meat! As with many other middle eastern people, Kurds are voracious carnivores. Local foods include: Kebab, dolma (stuffed grape vines), yaprax (assorted stuffed vegtables ranging from onions to courgettes, shila u brinc (the Kurdish national dish, composing rice alongside a soup, which is made from many vegtables such as okra "bamiya", and the infamous gipa (much like scottish haggis).

However, it's not exactly going to be haute cuisine. Be prepared to have a fairly grubby food experience. The shawarma shops are surprisingly tasty, with slicings of meat served in very nice samoon breads - but they aren't exactly A* cuisine. Apart from that, there are a lot of kebab or roast chicken restaurants where you will get some bread, some rice, some soup and some meat.

The less adventurous traveler will be reassured to know that some Western-style food establishments are now open in the major population centres, such as Domino's Pizza and numerous fried chicken and burger joints. However, it's not that easy to find them and they won't be much better than the local food.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Bottled water is widely available. For some reason, it's basically impossible to find large bottles - you'll just have to buy lots of small ones (250 IQD each give or take a little). They'll be sold by vendors on the street who keep them in buckets full of ice, because electricity is very inconsistent in the whole area. Make sure they are sealed when you buy them. Don't drink the tap water - what's the point in risking it?

It is a Muslim nation so alcohol is not particularly widely available or freely consumed. However, if they can find it, visitors are advised to try the Kurdish "Arak" (there are loads of Araks throughout the Middle Eastern countries - Lebanon, Syria etc. and Kurdistan has its own version), a concoction of fermented dates and aniseed which can, as local tradition has it, "make the dryest eye cry". European beers, lagers and ales are also obtainable as are locally produced wines, which make up for what they lack in sophistication with character. Or in other words, are disgusting.

Where alcohol is found, however, such as in the Irbil suburb os Ainkawa (A Christian village originally accessible by a short taxi ride from downtown Irbil), the travelor will find a fairly wide selection of liquor and the prices are quite reasonable.

You wouldn't really go to Kurdistan to get drunk though - you won't find many drinking companions, if any. If you want companionship, find yourself a coffee shop to sit in.

[edit] Stay safe

While Kurdistan Iraq is a reasonably safe place, the journey can become dangerous if you cross into the areas of Iraq outside of Kurdistan regional government control. Southern Iraq is extremely unsafe as compared to Kurdistan, with bombings and attacks on foreigners commonplace. The border is well demarcated by the Kurdish security services.