Ko Pha Ngan
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Ko Pha Ngan (เกาะพะง้น, pronounced KOH pa-nGan) is an island off the eastern Gulf coast of Thailand, halfway between the islands of Ko Samui and Ko Tao. It is known as a land of coconut trees and, above all, the world famous full moon parties.
[edit] Destinations
- Thong Sala - the island's "capital" and main ferry port.
- Chalok Lam - picturesque beach at the northern tip of the island.
- Haad Chao Phao - beautiful beach fringed by a vibrant coral reef, on the western part of the island.
- Haad Mae Haad - wide sandy beach joined to Koh Ma by a sand spit, which is a National Marine Park with some of the best diving and snorkeling on Pha Ngan; there is also a small village and a variety of resorts, restaurants and bars.
- Haad Salad - an idyllic cove with several high-end resorts on the north-western part of the island.
- Thonglang Bay - Located between Chalok Lam and Mae Haed this almost undiscovered bay offers a delightful and peaceful escape from the crowds.
- Haad Rin (Hat Rin) - site of the famous Full Moon Party.
- Haad Yao - long white sandy beach just north of Haad Chao Phao, slightly more developed with more beach bars and restaurants.
- Haad Son - a beautiful bay with beach next to Haad Yao.
- Sri Thanu - A volcanic peninsula to the south of Haad Son and Haad Yao with bays and beaches.
- Ban Tai - the longest stretch of uninterrupted beach on the entire island facing Koh Samui.
- Ban Kai - From Ban Tai through to Haad Rin this beach offers an idylic setting - just minutes from the full moon party.
- Thong Nai Pan - scenic area on the north-eastern part of the island that includes the neighboring beach resorts of Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai and Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi.
[edit] Climate
| Climate | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Daily highs (°C) | 31 | 32 | 33 | 35 | 33 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 30 | 30 | 30 |
| Nightly lows (°C) | 20 | 22 | 24 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 22 | 25 |
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane
The closest airport is Ko Samui (USM) which has frequent flights from Bangkok and Phuket, daily flights from U-Tapao and Singapore, and several direct flights each week from Chiang Mai and Kuala Lumpur. Transportation to the ferry dock is easy to find at the airport. Ferries depart several times a day with the last one around dusk.
The next nearest airport is Surat Thani (URT) on the mainland. Flights from Bangkok there are significantly cheaper (1000-1500 baht in advance, or 2000-2500 if booked same day, instead of 3000-5000 if flying to Samui), as there are low-cost carriers (AirAsia and One-Two-Go) flying there, and even Thai Airways charge 30-50% less than to Samui. However, you'll then need combined bus + boat travel to get to Ko Pha Ngan, which will surely take several hours.
[edit] By boat
From Ko Samui: There are at least 3 ferries a day from Ko Samui's "Big Buddha" pier directly to Haad Rin. Ferries also leave from Nathon and Mae Nam piers to Thong Sala several times a day.
Watch out for scammers at Koh Samui airport who try to sell you a bus/boat combo for an exorbitant price. Make sure to walk towards the exit of the airport where there is an Information counter and taxi stands.
[edit] By bus and boat
The best way in by bus is by Governmnent Bus to the Na Dan ferry piers: these are the most direct, quickest, reliable, safest, and hassle-free services. Tickets for these services can be bought at Sai Tai Taling Chan (southern) government bus terminal in Bangkok.
Buses also arrive in Surat Thani, capital of Surat Thani Province, from where passengers are inexorably swept up in the machine that will, several buses and at least one ferry later, spit you out on the rusty pier of Thong Sala.
If there are no available options listed above (usually only if you've arrived to the bus terminal quite late in the evening before a weekend or holiday), you can also try a bus to Chumphon and board a ferry there, see "By train" section below. You can buy a combo ticket on the bus station, it will cost same as if purchased separately (and the bus arrives 2-3 hours before ferry departure, so you shouldn't be late).
Buses originating from Khao San Road (or others with travel agent sold tickets) are notorious for thefts from passenger luggage and should be avoided at all costs. Under no circumstances should passengers on Khao San Road buses leave valuables in bags that will go in the luggage stowage areas, even if the bags can be locked; consider it inevitable that every bag will be opened while the bus is in motion.
[edit] By train, boat and bus
Overnight train from Bangkok is an interesting option. Trains arrive in Surat Thani or Chumphon, and from there you can transfer by bus and then boat. Chumphon is the option if you're planning to stop by at Ko Tao but if you're heading straight to Ko Phan Ngan consider Surat Thani. Both stations are on the south-bounding Hay Yai line but arrival times in Chumphon (when using night trains) are annoyingly early in the morning. For example, the (recommended) express train number #85 arrives around 4am after which you'll have to wait about 3 hours for the ferry. On the other hand, if you continue down to Surat Thani you can sleep an extra 3-4 hours plus you will arrive in daylight. Considering the waiting time in Chumphon and the longer ferry trip you will eventually get to Ko Pha Ngan at about the same time.
Combined train-bus-boat tickets can be bought direct from the official Advance Booking Counter at Hualamphong station in Bangkok, although sometimes train get late, and your boat is already gone and you have to pay extra for the next boat. Thus joint ticket is not the best choice.
From February 2009, train e-tickets can be booked online in advance without any extra fees, see the main Thailand article. This is also quite an option to avoid travel agency fees while going back (as, obviously, there are no railway stations on the islands).
If e-booking is not available or not suitable to you for some reason, train tickets may be reserved up to 60 days in advance and paid for by email. In reality, the Thai authorities are lax in returning emails and/or will give the runaround, or flat-out refuse to reserve seats for non-Thais during peak travel periods (December - January and Songkran holiday in April). If your heart is set on going by train, start early, be persistent, and have a backup plan to go by bus or plane.
[edit] Get around
[edit] By motorcycle
100-125cc motorbikes can be hired from around 200 baht/day; larger capacity models cost 300-700 baht/day. Foreigners are without exceptions required to leave their passport as a deposit.
Some rental shops overcharge for every scratch or dent. They don't fix, but rather replace the whole part - so note damages to the bike on the rental contract. Be aware that your passport may be held against you until you pay the exorbitant repair cost. This practice is, justified or not, very common all over the region. However, it's quite rare (though not unheard of) that you would actually have to pay for the damage you haven't done. In most cases, it's the combination of inexperienced and intoxicated driving when accidents happen. If you don't know what you're doing stay on the safe side and stick with Songthaew.
Avoid riding at sundown, when the bugs are out en masse, and result in brief periods of riding blind, while you desperately try to clear your corneas. Try not to go home with a 'KPN tattoo' - this can either result from your tender-skinned body sliding along a bitumen road at high speed with few clothes on, or from the inside of your leg touching too hot exhaust pipe of the moped.
Care is needed if attempting to go over the notorious Haad Rin hills, the roads at the eastern side of the island, and north of Haad Yao. Especially the "Hill of Tears" (first steep ascend from Thong Sala towards Haad Rin) needs caution - use low gear only and rather have your passenger walk, than bruised up.
Drunk driving in the West is illegal - in Ko Pha Ngan it's suicidal. Better to sit in the back of a taxi than hitting one head on at night, or end up in hospital.
Wear a helmet, avoid riding in flip-flops and stay within your limits. The slower you drive, the less it's gonna hurt.
It is also possible to rent small Suzuki jeeps, however you will find that you can circuit the island in a day.
[edit] By songthaew
Songthaew pick-up truck taxis criss-cross the island for around 100 baht a ride, or 150 baht for the less accessible destination of Thong Nai Pan, if you share taxi car with other people.
It is important to note that ALL taxi service on Koh Phangan is provided by songthaew. Should you choose to go with a freelancer on a motorbike or in a pickup, make arrangements quickly, quietly and pay surrepitiously.
[edit] By boat
Boats cruise the bays with your snorkeling gear until somewhere takes your fancy. The round-the-island, all day boat trip is a great way to see some of the best beaches in the island.
[edit][add listing] See
- Than Sadet-Ko Pha-Ngan National Park The park is named after the river Than Sadet (lit. Royal River). The river forms the largest waterfall on the island, which was visited by several Thai kings. Especially Rama V liked the placed and visited 14 times.
- Visit the beautiful waterfalls and lookouts in the interior of the island.
- The herbal sauna at Wat Pho is a great relief after long party nights. It's near the 7/11 branch in Baan Thai, on the south-western side of the island. Don't forget to leave a donation, always wear a sarong (over your bikini) - remember that you are on temple-territory and locals find nudity offensive. This is not a European sauna, sitting naked will get you into trouble.
- If you're into fire, you'll find spinners and twirlers on many of the beaches, teachers abund and poi are easy to find.
- Visit Ko Ma off the north-west coast of Ko Pha Ngan.It offeres one of the best snorkeling places on the island.
- On the road between Thongsala and Chaloklum is beautiful Chinese Temple with overlooking on Chaloklum Bay.
- There is a Elephant Camp on the way from Baan Tai to Thong Nai Pan, take a photo or try trekking through the jungle.
[edit][add listing] Do
- Explore the beauty of Phangan Island, through exciting day, evening and adventure tours. Experience, diving, snorkeling, kayaking, speed boat excursions to Ang Thong National Marine Park, Muay Thai, fishing trips, cultural tours, elephant riding, enjoy the beauty of nature that the Koh Maa area has to offer and have a relaxing boat trip. With so many things to see and do your time in Koh Phangan will be truly memorable.
- Scuba Diving Koh Pha-Ngan has lovely sites around the island which are perfect for both beginners and trained divers. From easy dives off the beach to longer trips by boat you can experience the world of tropical diving. The waters around Koh Pha-Ngan are much nicer than most people know: fine hard corals with a good range of reefs and tropical/pelagic fish. Sailrock, undoubtedly the most famous dive site in the Gulf of Thailand. Located between Koh Pha-ngan and Koh Tao all the wonders of this exciting site can be explored by all levels of divers. This spectacular rock rises out of the water creating the best wall dive with a maximum depth of 40 metres. Providing a great range of marine life, spectacular underwater scenery, rock formations. There are several PADI dive-schools on the island, amongst others, Scuba Fun Thailand by Cyana Beach Resortlocated in Woktum bay, Haad Yao Divers a small PADI 5 Star Gold Palm Dive Center located on Haad Yao, Mae Haad and Haad Chao Phao, Reefers Dive Resort located in Haad Yao beach, Sail Rock Divers, Lotus Dive Resort, both located in Chalok Lam, and Phangang Divers, located in Haad Rin. You will, however, find many more dive schools through out the island.
- Full Moon Party - if you're after party heaven you can't do better than Haad Rin, an expanded village of beach bars, cheap chicken burgers, and low cut figure-hugging outfits. It is most popular one night a month - the night of the Full Moon Party. Every bar is hopping, the beaches packed with trance, dance, buckets, and various other suspicious substances. However, if the sight of thousands of bottles and other trash repulses you, make sure you leave the beach area before the sun comes up, or grab a garbage bag and help tidy up a little. If you're not on Ko Pha Ngan during the full moon, don't worry: there are other parties to be had, including Half Moon (2 times a month), Black Moon, Jungle Parties, as well as the Shiva Moon party. There is always something to do in Ko Pha Ngan.
- Archery can be attempted at the "First Bow and Arrow Archery" close to Chaloklum on the road to Thongsala. Four archers can have a go at the same time, people are very friendly (German spoken during high season) and helpful.
- Hiking can be done all around the island. There is a trail that leads between Haad Rin and Haad Tien, which many enjoy however the route can become difficult to discern, and bringing enough water is necessary.
- Muay Thai gyms such as "Jungle Gym" in Haad Rin and Thong Sala Muay Thai offering training and work out facilities, as well as camps such as "Horizon" located in Haad Tien (east) which is an intensive training camp. There are also frequent matches in Thong Sala and Haad Rin for spectators who don't want to learn the sport.
- Yoga is offered at multiple locations including Agama Yoga, which is located in the northwest of the island, and has month long intensive courses.
- Trip Around The Island One day in Paradise, see everything interesting in one day trip Safari Boat. Daily Tour. Visit Chinese Temple, Elephant Camp, Bottle Beach, Thong Nai Pan, Thansadet Waterfalls, see monkey show, wonderful snorkeling.. have a fun with your friends.
[edit][add listing] Buy
Under Thai law, travel agents that offer ticket, tours, tourism services, hotel reservations in Thailand must be registered with the Tourism Authority Thailand to improve quality of service and help protect the customer from fraud. Please check to make sure you are booking through a TAT registered travel agent.
Both Thong Sala and Haad Rin sell pretty much anything you can think of, and probably some things you don't need at all. You can try to bargain, but realistically, the prices are set. You may get a deal every now and again, but it's the exception to the rule. Remember that you're in a tourist area and that prices usually are above the level of for say Bangkok.
Main purchases you will find on Ko Pha Ngan include hammocks (check out "Hammock Home" in Thong Sala) as well as some of the local artists works. Most of the clothing is of the variety that you will find in Bangkok, but generally it is a bit more expensive, as it has been imported to the island for sale.
Art Galleries are also considered to be rising business in Koh Phangan, most of the places will offer variety works and services including custom orders and art reproductions. These galleries have reputations in affordable prices and fine quality artist skills.
Tesco-Lotus delicious inexpensive bakery, open 10.00 - 22.00, in Thongsala
[edit][add listing] Eat
For an authentic experience (and cheaper than the well-decorated cafe/restaurants by Haad Rin beach), look at the more modest cafes where you might see some Thais eating.
The best area for authentic cheap eats is definitely Thong Sala, the main town on the island.
- Me'n'u The signature restaurant of the five star resort Rasananda at Tong Nai Pan Noi has become firmly established as the island's premier eatery, sourcing only the finest freshest ingredients to create their Modern European cuisine, this has to be the finest location of all the restaurants on Phangan island, that includes a 500 bottle wine cellar and champagne lounge.
- Fellini, Srithanu. A new, stylish Italian restaurant. Stone-cooked pizzas, a wide choice of pastas, steaks, seafood, salads. Good choices of wine. edit
- Ando Loco - Thongsala's Mexican restaurant of the year for two years running, authentic cuisine only using imported spices, best tequilla and Margarita's on the Island.
[edit][add listing] Drink
- Sheesha (Chaloklam). A classy take on the Thai bar, definitely worth a look. edit
- The Livin' Room. Sip cocktails while you enjoy air-con & movies on a 5m screen, with your own private phone to order drinks & food. edit
[edit][add listing] Sleep
- See the individual town articles for hotel and resort listings.
As a general guide: As further you walk along the beach to the last resort, the better and quieter deal you get!
You can usually find accommodation at the pier when you arrive, many of resorts offers taxi service from pier for free! However, during Full moon period it is worth booking ahead unless you want to sleep on the beach or spend the night in one of the more expensive lodgings. If you are thinking of booking accommodation online before you arrive, make sure you book with the actual resort or a trustworthy booking site as there are numerous fake sites for several well known Ko Phangan resorts appearing on the Internet.
There is more to Ko Pha Ngan than the full moon party and Haad Rin, so don't be afraid to venture out to other beaches. You can still get to the party from just about everywhere.
The decent rooms tend to run out a few days before the full moon party, and throughout the peak season (December-February). If you have a short vacation or like to have a soft landing, you might want to book a room in advance.
If you decide to test your luck, try to arrive as early in the day as possible to have the most time and options for accommodations.
For a cheap bungalow, literally moments from white beaches (but no surf whatsoever), turn left from Thong Sala and you will pass strings of quiet bays, each with one or more 'resorts', featuring a bar, a restaurant, rooms and bungalows, and a few dozen laid back tourists and travelers for company. Try Haad Yao, Haad Son, Ban Tai, Haad Salad or any of the others along the same strip.
For the North of the island, Chalok Lam, Ko Ma & Bottle Beach are popular.
Thong Nai Pan (Noi and Yai) is to the Northeast and is more remote, but is well worth the bumpy drive through the forest. It is a pair of particularly beautiful and relaxing beaches with plenty of accommodation, restaurants, and nightlife.
[edit] Stay safe
Emergency contacts
- Fire: dial 199
- Police: dial 191 (077 377 114)
- Tourist Police: dial 1155 (this supersedes the old "1699" number)
- Phangan Rescue Centre: dial 077 377 118
Yes, the Full Moon Party (as well as others) is full of drugs, but these days it's also full of plain clothed policemen out to bust you. Be very careful if you intend to consume illicit drugs. Road blocks are common, particularly in the week before the FMP between Thong Sala and Haad Rin. Thai police have also been known to force urine tests. Remember that the Thais have harsh penalties for drug offences and the police are working to meet their "quota". Be aware that you may NOT be able to bail yourself out of trouble - especially if you get transferred to Surat Thani - and that bribing Thai police will at least cut a deep hole into your travel budget, if it is possible at all. Do not keep drugs on you, in your room, or in your vehicle.
If you plan to drink at a party, make sure you have reliable transportation set up beforehand. The roads here are nothing to mess with, and too many people try to drive home because they don't have a taxi waiting. If nothing else, find a safe corner and sleep it off before you head home.
It's not a good idea to accept drinks or food from strangers, there are reported incidents of spiked drinks (from both locals and "fellow" travellers). There have been reports of LSD buckets foisted upon unsuspecting partyers in Haad Rin. Drugged drinks are often and unfortunately followed up by robbery, sexual harassment, or even (gang) rapes. Best idea is to afford your own drinks and stay with your friends.
On closer inspection of the buckets sold, most liquor bottles are unsealed; thus there is uncerainty about the true contents of every bottle. This may be why so many people get sick.
However a local club owner states "we use the small bottles for the buckets and it is cheaper and easier for us to re-use the small bottles. The local stockists always run out of small bottles so we often replace the contents with that from a larger bottle of the same liquor (some clubs use cheaper liquor - ask POLITELY at the bar for original liquor and be prepared to pay more for original liquor). The hangovers come from dehydration - most kids drink buckets all night then party in the morning sun on alcohol - best advise is drink water regularly - even at night as its hot and sweaty!"
So before buying a bucket, check the seal of the bottle and politely ask what's in it if you are worried. Apart from that, remember the fact that buckets can be VERY strong and unpredictable. If you intend to get drunk, try to have solid food beforehand, or you might "lose it" very fast.
It's advisable to leave all valuables in a safety deposit box or at your guest house owner's hands instead of taking them to the party.
Wear shoes or sandals to avoid injury from broken bottles or burning cigarettes.
If you're averse to getting knocked on the head with flaming batons, then don't venture too close to the Fire Poi swingers on the beach, as skillful as they may be, the fire sometimes gets out of hand and hit nearby tourists. "Fire Skipping Rope / Jump through Fire Hoop" are dangerous games provided a few of the beach bars, take care of participating in these games, especially if you are drunk!
If you plan to leave the island the day after the Full Moon Party, be aware that the boats are usually packed with other tourists who have the same idea. Make sure you're not getting on an overloaded boat. Same applies to taxi-boats before and after the FMP. The Thai frequently overload their longtail boats and lost luggage is at your own expense. Rather get off, reclaim your money and wait for the next one.
There are many good places to stay in Ko Pha Ngan, if you want to stay close to the action, but not TOO close you may choose the resorts on the "sunset side" of Haad Rin. You can stay just about anywhere on the island and still get to the Full Moon Party, so don't be afraid to venture away from Haad Rin, which is the most developed and least Thai beach of them all. There are aver 30 coves and beaches on the island, each with it's own distinct qualities. Check out local information to find which beach suits you.
Try to WALK AWAY from every potential conflict with locals. You will stand no chance and it's a surefire way to get hospitalized. Also try not to get inappropriately rowdy or swear at the beach bar staff. In April 2007 an Israeli tourist got stabbed to death right on the dancefloor in one of the bars on Haad Rin beach - violence is frequent. The locals will not help you in a fight and will in fact gang up on you whether you are right or wrong, and "fellow" travellers will do their best to stay out of it, too. If you find yourself seriously aimed for, LEAVE THE PLACE IMMEDIATELY and don't come back the same night. Thais who lose their temper usually are back to normal the next day. Be friendly and smile - you're on a holiday! Everything is best done with a smile here as this is Thai culture.
[edit] Contact
Internet cafes are plentiful and typically also offer international calls, fax services and flight confirmation. The connection and speed is generally good. Expect to pay 60 baht/h (1 baht/m) for internet in the central locations. One baht per minute is typical for predominantly tourist-oriented shops, many of which also offer lower rates for pre-paid blocks of time. It's not difficult to find well-equipped, quiet, air-con Internet cafés that charge 60 baht/hour if you shop around a little; likewise shops that can accommodate users who want to hook up their own laptops can easily be found. Printing (black/white) is usually 10 baht/page (30 baht/page for colour).
Overseas calls can be made from many agencies and Internet shops, as well as guesthouses/hotels and the like - most advertise a rate of 15 baht/minute (or 25 baht/minute to mobile 'phones).
The Pha-Ngan's post office is located south of Thong Sala. As well as the usual postal services, it handles Western Union transactions and hosts a large number of post/security boxes. On weekdays (except public holidays) it's open 08:30-16:30, and on Saturday and Sunday and public holidays it's open 09:00-12:00; tel. 077 377 118
[edit] Get out
- Ang Thong National Marine Park - 2 hours away by boat and a great place for a day-trip. there are huts and tents available.
- Sail Rock - popular diving destination, mid-way between Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao
- Ko Nang Yuan is a small island very close to Ko Tao. It is famous for its diving spots and its great snorkeling beach.
- Surat Thani The main's island.
- Ko Tao "the biggest dive school on the planet"
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