Ko Phayam is the second largest Andaman Sea island off the coast of Ranong Province (Ko Chang, about 4 kms distant, is the largest). Ko Phayam has no roads suitable for automobiles, thus motorbikes are the chief means of transport. Tourists hire motorbikes at the pier and ride along the road to the resorts. There two major beaches/bays, i.e., Ao Yai and Ao Kao Kwai (Buffalo Bay). For those who want to get away from it all, Ko Phayam is reminiscent of what Ko Samui was like 30 years ago, before the airport and hotel developments.
Ao Yai is the largest bay on the west coast, about 3 km long and 300 m wide, with a white sand beach and a gentle swell from Andaman Sea. Stunning sunsets as well.
Ko Phayam is widely thought to be one of the most beautiful--and undiscovered--of Thailand's islands.
Ko Phayam is just over 30 km from Ranong, about 2 hours from the mainland's Phayam Pier by slow boat, 30-40 minutes by speed boat. The slow boat leaves at 09:30 and 14:00 from the mainland. 8:30 and 14:00 on the return journey. Speed boats depart at different and more frequent schedules (but not in low season).
From Bangkok you can take a bus (Mitrap Tours) which is leaving from Khaosan Road to Ranong for 544Baht (May 2013). The advantage with these busses is that you can make a reservation in advance. This bus is leaving at 7.00pm at the agency (the bus also stops at the south bus station). There are also some slightly cheapter busses running directly from the southern bus station, but you have to buy the tickets directly at the bus station.
Flight service from Bangkok to Ranong Airport and back three times a week via Happy Air 
Ferry Prices as of May 2013
Slow boat: 150 baht
Speed boat: 270 baht
Ferry Schedule as of Dec 2011
To get from the Ranong bus station to the Ko Phayam pier you can avoid tuk tuks and take a Songthaew instead. Therefore just walk to the main road and stop one. The costs are 15-20B per person.
No cars on this island. Motorbikes and scooters can be rented at Phayam Cottage Internet Shop near the main arrival ferry pier as well as many other places. The price is roughly 150-200 baht per day unless heavily booked. Gasoline costs 40-50 baht per litre. If you rent a motorbike don't drive it on the beach. There are rumours that you can get fined 5,000 baht because of fine print on the rental agreement.
Motorbike taxi drivers will be waiting for you as you step off the pier and can be found around the island, differentiated by their blue or red vests. Maps of the island near the pier are colour coded, showing you what the fixed price is to get to certain areas. 70 baht from the pier to Ao Yai. Ask your guesthouse to call you a taxi bike if you are at the quieter end of the island. The wait for a taxi to pass by can be longer than you wish to wait.
There are many beautiful beaches, some of them long like Ao Yai--the largest. The ferry pier area is vibrant with restaurants, a few Internet and other shops, and places to settle into a lounge chair or hammock and enjoy a cold drink or two.
For action, Ao Yai has a very nice swell since it faces southwest and the Andaman Sea. For kayaking, swimming,and snorkelling, Ao Yai beach is the place.
In the northwest is Ao Kao Kwai, a quieter beach. Many new resorts, budget style and quiet, unlike the larger Ao Yai which have some more people and more activity. Relatively speaking, however, the entire island is a tranquil place for you to explore.
Take yoga with '1-Self Yoga', or batik courses at PP.Land Beach Resort or visit the art shop at Heaven Beach Resort & Art.
If you feel like exploring underwater, a few boats offer dive and snorkelling cruises around the infamous Richelieu Rock, Surin islands, and Similan Islands. The Smiling Seahorse  and Phayam Divers  are the main diving operators on Ko Phayam.
There are many good local seafood restaurants with fresh catch and several Western food restaurants run by the island's local foreigners.
The entire island offers many cheap vegetarian/vegan food options.
'''Paceluce''' ('''Snack bar Italiano'''), Ao Kao Kwai North (next to '''Chomjam Resor'''t), ☎ +66 860 294 106. closes 17:00. Little Italian family restaurant serving pasta, salads, bruschetti, sandwiches, real coffee, shakes, and crepes, all made with fresh ingredients.edit
'Home Me', in the village on the road leading away from the pier up to the hospital, has some great cakes and bread homemade by the owner - Pi Fen, who has more than 20 years baking experience. The menu includes Thai and Western dishes and is a nice little restaurant for breakfast or lunch, especially if you are making a trip to or from Ranong.
'Cha-Chai Home', a little way down the main road to Ao Yai (Long Beach) on the corner of the road to Buffalo Bay (the Payam Cabana/June Horizon road), has a large selection of custom made teas, fresh coffees and shakes. They have an extensive and original vegetarian and vegan menu with Thai, Western and Fusion dishes, including homemade bread,cakes, soya milk, yogurt, muesli and pizzas, plus curries and other Thai dishes. They offer 'fake' meat alternatives - such as burgers, sausage sandwiches,Ginger Chicken or Tamarind Fish - for vegans, vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike. If you have a sweet tooth, they have Thai pancakes, western crepes or a cake of the day. Additionally, they have a library with books in many languages for rent, exchange or sale; and a giftshop with original art, postcards, teas etc. They also offer wifi for free. There is a selection of table games available for young and old. However, make sure you leave plenty of time for your meal as sometimes the wait can take a while in this busy, laid back little open air restaurant.
Blue Sky near the pier
Phayam Lodge at Ao Yai Beach.
'Phayam Cabana' at the far end of Buffalo Bay has great Thai food and is well worth the trip to give it a try. They have a large restaurant on the seafront with a beautiful view of the ocean and mangroves. Jimmy's cooking is among the best on the island, especially Tom Yum Kung, or chicken Masaman curry.
'Heaven Beach' in the middle of Buffalo Bay offers awesome cocktails and a very good western/Thai menu. It has a great laid back feel and is perfect for watching the sunset or enjoying a delicious lunch on the beach whilst the kids play with the toys available.
'PP Land' follow the road past the temple in the village and turn the corner at the end), also offer a very nice choice of Thai and Western food, with homemade bread and fresh coffee.
'Payam Seafood', on the road to Ao Yai (Long Beach), has some of the best seafood available and all freshly caught from the fishermen on the island. Their Yellow Curried Crab or Tamarind Prawns are especially worth a try.
Chomjan Resort, (on Ao Khao Kwai on the western side of Ko Phayam), . Chomjan Resort is a good place for relaxing and enjoying the environment. The rooms are private and comfortable, and each bungalow comes with fan. Excellent facilities, including a restaurant serving Thai cuisine.edit
Contact Bungalows. Has unsecure bungalows for 200 baht (double bed, mosquito net, sit down toilet, shower) and 300 baht. Near a rocky beach. Serves food (60+ baht)200-300 baht. edit
'Payam Cabana', at the far end of Buffalo Bay near the mangroves, has very nice bungalows, all with comfortable beds and beach views.The rooms are reasonably priced, especially as it is quiet and clean and not close to any of the bars. It also has a great restaurant on the beachfront with some of the best Thai food on the island.
'June Horizon', next to Payam Cabana - near the mangroves on Buffalo Bay, has bungalows in a choice of styles with artistic design and integrated with nature. A laid back happy hippy place to stay and hang out, with a funky small beach front bar and restaurant serving delicious breakfasts and dinners.
Coconut Beach Resort (Coconut Bungalows), 14 Moo 1, Ao Yai, Ko Phayam, 85000 Ranong, Thailand (down Ao Yai Beach, past South Star Bar, before Ao Yai Bungalows. Around 500 m down from the taxi stop.), ☎ +66 899 208 145, . checkin: All day; checkout: 12:00. While the bungalows are well-fitted out, if a little rustic, and the food at the bar is fantastic, the real reason to come here is the warm welcome and service you will receive from the family of young people that run the resort. A beautiful location directly on the beach.300-1,000 baht. (N09º 43.320,O098º 23.648)edit
Lazy Hut Resort, (from the pier rent a scooter or hire a taxi (70 baht to Ao Yai). Take the road perpendicular to the beach. Go about 500 m, turn left on Tupauan Rd. Take it all the way to Ao Yai Beach (about 3 km). On the beach turn right. First is Longbeach Bungalows, next is Lazy Hut.), ☎ +66 89 724 0386 (email@example.com). Offers a mix of classic bamboo bungalows and brand new family style bungalows on the south end of Ao Yai, which is a bit quieter than the central area. Free Wi-Fi, electricity 09:00-24:00, tasty restaurant, and a friendly and personable staff. Has probably the best beach lounging setup on Ao Yai: shaded hammocks, lay-down cushions, tables and chairs, and beach lounge chairs. A great place for those who want to chill out for a few days or creative types looking for a longer stay.Classic bamboo bungalow 350 baht, new luxury room 700 baht, beach front luxury bungalow 1,000 baht. Discount can be negotiated for longer stays. edit
Phayam Lodge Beach Resort, (on Ao Yai Beach), ☎ +66 86 995 2598, . Offers family houses with 3 bedrooms and fully furnished kitchens. They also have beach bungalows with sunset terraces for couples just 20 m from Ao Yai Beach. Amazing sunset view. All accommodations have 24 hour electricity, air-con and Wi-Fi. The resort also offers an on-site restaurant, The Bubble Beach Bar and Phayam Divers.1,400-2,500 baht. edit
Vijit Bungalows, firstname.lastname@example.org, ☎ +66 77 834 082, . To fit almost every budget, Vijit Bunalows is a good choice at Ao Yai.300-1,500 baht. edit
Heaven Beach Resort & Art [], run by the adorable Namwaan, is a small luxury resort on Ao Kai Kwai beach. 50 sm bungalows with hot/cold open air showers, spacious porches, and a very cozy restaurant on the beach. Great sunset views can be enjoyed either from the beachfront bungalows or in the open-air restaurant. From the same owners as PP.Land Beach Resort, so customers of Heaven Beach are allowed to use all the PP.Land facilities.
PP.Land Beach Beach Resort [] is a small eco-resort run by Paul from Belgium and Pearl from Thailand. All bungalows are built to Western standards in an old cashew garden, next to a 300 m private beach. There is free WiFi and a swimming pool and they organise boat tours for their customers. The restaurant is open all day.
Sabai Sabai Bungalows A charming place with an informal, friendly atmosphere. Has 8 simple, but stylish, themed (e.g., India, Africa, Cuba) beachfront bungalows priced 200-500 baht per night. Also a restaurant serving sociable family-style meals, a cool lounge area showing movies and sports, an abundance of hammocks in which to relax, and a small sailing boat and a kayak for its customers. The Coconut Bar and the comfy hammock-filled Shisha Lounge are also both on-premises, and the establishment hosts beach parties fortnightly.