Ko Phayam is the second largest Andaman Sea island off the coast of Ranong Province (Ko Chang, about 4 kms distant, is the largest). Ko Phayam has no roads suitable for automobiles, thus motorbikes are the chief means of transport. Tourists hire motorbikes at the pier and ride along the road to the resorts. There two major beaches/bays, i.e., Ao Yai and Ao Kao Kwai (Buffalo Bay). For those who want to get away from it all, Ko Phayam is reminiscent of what Ko Samui was like 30 years ago, before the airport and hotel developments.
Ao Yai is the largest bay on the west coast, about 3 km long and 300 m wide, with a white sand beach and a gentle swell from Andaman Sea. Stunning sunsets as well.
Ko Phayam is widely thought to be one of the most beautiful--and undiscovered--of Thailand's islands.
Ko Phayam is just over 30 km from Ranong, about 2 hours from the mainland's Phayam Pier by slow boat, 30-40 minutes by speed boat. The slow boat leaves at 09:30 and 14:00 from the mainland, cost 150-200 THB (11/2015). 8:30 and 14:00 on the return journey. Speed boats depart at different and more frequent schedules (but not in low season).
From Bangkok you can take a bus (Mitrap Tours) which is leaving from Khaosan Road to Ranong for 544Baht (May 2013). The advantage with these busses is that you can make a reservation in advance. This bus is leaving at 7.00pm at the agency (the bus also stops at the south bus station). There are also some slightly cheaper busses running directly from the southern bus station, but you have to buy the tickets directly at the bus station.
Flight service from Bangkok to Ranong Airport and back three times a week via Happy Air 
Ferry Prices as of Nov 17. 2015
Slow boat: 200 baht
Speed boat: 350 baht, discount to 210 baht available at the pier
Ferry Schedule as of Nov 2015
To get from the Ranong bus station to the Ko Phayam pier you can avoid tuk tuks and take a Songthaew instead. Therefore just walk to the main road and stop one of line #3 or #4. The costs are 15 THB per person.
From Ranong to Ko Phayam:
Slow boat: 9:30, 14:00
Speed boat: 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 14:30, 16:30, 17:30, speed boat times may vary so inquire at your hostel
No cars on this island. Motorbikes and scooters can be rented at Phayam Cottage Internet Shop near the main arrival ferry pier as well as many other places. The price is roughly 150-200 baht per day unless heavily booked. Gasoline costs 40-50 baht per liter. If you rent a motorbike don't drive it on the beach. There are rumours that you can get fined 5,000 baht because of fine print on the rental agreement.
Motorbike taxi drivers will be waiting for you as you step off the pier and can be found around the island, differentiated by their blue or red vests. Maps of the island near the pier are colour coded, showing you what the fixed price is to get to certain areas. 70 baht from the pier to Ao Yai. Ask your guesthouse to call you a taxi bike if you are at the quieter end of the island. The wait for a taxi to pass by can be longer than you wish to wait.
There are many beautiful beaches, some of them long like Ao Yai--the largest. The ferry pier area is vibrant with restaurants, a few Internet and other shops, and places to settle into a lounge chair or hammock and enjoy a cold drink or two.
Aow Yai (Big Bay) is the longest and busiest beach of the island with few bars located along it. You will find here some nice swells since it faces southwest into the Andaman Sea. Great for surfing, walking and meeting people.
Aow Kao Kwai (Buffalo Bay) in the northwest is a quieter beach. If you looking for getaway and relaxation - this is the place go be. Calm water here is ideal for swimming. There is a mangrove forest along the river on this beach - great place for kayaking.
Yoga - "1-Self Yoga" at Cha-Chai Home.
Batik courses - PP. Land Beach Resort.
Kite-surfing and surfing lessons - Buffalo bay Vacation Club.
Snorkeling and diving tours to Richelieu Rock, Surin islands, and Similan Islands - Phayam Divers and Buffalo Bay Vacation Club (+66-85-1079473).
Aladdin Dive Safari (diving with aladdin dive safari from koh phayam), Cross Road 200m before Ao Yai Baech, ☎ +66 (0) 872747601, . 09;00-22:00. Liveaboard diving to the Surin and Similan Islands and the Mergui Archipelago in Myanmar (Burma)and day trips to Richelieu Rock and the Surin Islands, starting from Koh Phayam.19900. (9.7270879,98.3937883)edit
There are many good local seafood restaurants with fresh catch and several Western food restaurants run by the island's local foreigners.
The entire island offers many cheap vegetarian/vegan food options.
'''Paceluce''' ('''Snack bar Italiano'''), Ao Kao Kwai North (next to '''Chomjam Resor'''t), ☎ +66 860 294 106. closes 17:00. Little Italian family restaurant serving pasta, salads, bruschetti, sandwiches, real coffee, shakes, and crepes, all made with fresh ingredients.edit
'Home Me', in the village on the road leading away from the pier up to the hospital, has some great cakes and bread homemade by the owner - Pi Fen, who has more than 20 years baking experience. The menu includes Thai and Western dishes and is a nice little restaurant for breakfast or lunch, especially if you are making a trip to or from Ranong.
'Cha-Chai Home', a little way down the main road to Ao Yai (Long Beach) on the corner of the road to Buffalo Bay (the Payam Cabana/June Horizon road), has a large selection of custom made teas, fresh coffees and shakes. Their menu is excessively large and unwieldy, and consequently ordering is a horrendously complicated exercise in working out the correct code for your choice of dish, writing it on paper, then waiting 20 minutes to find out they don't have the ingredients for it. This is a strictly meat-free restaurant, although 'fake' meat is offered, such as burgers, sausage sandwiches, Ginger Chicken or Tamarind Fish - for vegans, vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.. They have an extensive and original menu with Thai, Western and Fusion dishes, including homemade bread, cakes, soya milk, yogurt, muesli and pizzas, plus curries and other Thai dishes. If you have a sweet tooth, they have Thai pancakes, western crepes or a cake of the day. Additionally, they have a library with books in many languages for rent, exchange or sale; and a gift shop with original art, postcards, teas etc. They also offer wifi for free, as well as laptops for rent, and they have one of the fastest connections on the island as they are close to the radio tower. There is a selection of table games available for young and old as well as a kids corner for families. Additionally they have bicycles and motorbikes for rent... However, make sure you leave plenty of time for your meal as sometimes the wait for fresh homemade food can take a while in this busy, laid back little open air restaurant.
'Kruq Khun Kao', a couple of doors down from Cha-Chai home, may well be the best restaurant on the island. The chef, Mr. Kao, is a master of his craft, and can turn his hand to all the usual Thai dishes, but his specialty is Issan food. Particularly recommended is the whole snapper, which can be had with a choice of sauces, but whatever you fancy you'll find it done very well here. They'll even cook you a mean burger. The magician will give up his secrets in a cooking lesson at a cost of 850 baht, in which you'll learn to make two dishes of your choice, and get to eat them for lunch afterwards. The more people attend, the more different dishes you'll learn to make, so consider bringing a few friends. Very friendly, welcoming place that will leave you feeling well fed and happy.
Blue Sky near the pier
Phayam Lodge at Ao Yai Beach.
'Phayam Cabana' at the far end of Buffalo Bay has great Thai food and is well worth the trip to give it a try. They have a large restaurant on the seafront with a beautiful view of the ocean and mangroves. Jimmy's cooking is among the best on the island, especially Tom Yum Kung, or chicken Masaman curry.
'Heaven Beach' in the middle of Buffalo Bay offers awesome cocktails and a very good western/Thai menu. It has a great laid back feel and is perfect for watching the sunset or enjoying a delicious lunch on the beach whilst the kids play with the toys available.
'PP Land' follow the road past the temple in the village and turn the corner at the end), also offer a very nice choice of Thai and Western food, with homemade bread and fresh coffee.
'Ao Yai Seafood', on the road to Ao Yai (Long Beach), has some of the best seafood available and all freshly caught from the fishermen on the island. Their Yellow Curried Crab or Tamarind Prawns are especially worth a try.
'Chomjan Bungalows' also offer excellent Thai cuisine and have a very comfortable and clean restaurant, set amongst the gardens on the hill with beautiful views of the ocean. Well worth a visit.
Kao Kwai Hill, (Buffalo Bay, central part), ☎ + 66 899 703 686. Quiet and rural bungalow's resort on the cliff right in the middle of Buffalo Bay run by nice Italian/thai staff. 8 bungalows with private bathroom spread on the hill for 300 bath and one for 700. Electricity supplied from 6pm to 11pm. Good restaurant with thai/italian/western selection of food. Super sunset overlooking at the low tide of the bay from the cliff. Possibility of self-camping also. edit
Buffalo Bay Vacation club, email@example.com, ☎ +66-819610375, . * Right in the center of Buffalo Bay, has very nice modern fan/ac, cold/hot water bungalows. One of the few places with 24 hours electricity on the island. Great restaurant with best choice of international food, wifi, children friendly. Offer diverse activities: diving, snorkeling, kite-surfing and surfing lessons, trekking tours etc. Reasonable prices for comfortable stay in a quiet place. From 700 bath. edit
Chomjan Resort, (on Ao Khao Kwai on the western side of Ko Phayam), . Chomjan Resort is a good place for relaxing and enjoying the environment. The rooms are private and comfortable, and each bungalow comes with fan. Excellent facilities, including a restaurant serving excellent Thai cuisine. The gardens are lovely and many of the rooms have sea views, some with glass french windows looking out. It's a truly tranquil, comfortable environment for relaxing and enjoying the island.edit
Contact Bungalows. Has unsecure bungalows for 200 baht (double bed, mosquito net, sit down toilet, shower) and 300 baht. Higher up, overlooking a rocky beach, some tree-filtered views over the ocean. Serves food (60+ baht)200-300 baht. edit
Payam Cabana. * 'Payam Cabana', at the far end of Buffalo Bay near the mangroves, has very nice bungalows, all with comfortable beds and beach views.The rooms are reasonably priced, especially as it is quiet and clean and not close to any of the bars. It also has a great restaurant on the beachfront with some of the best Thai food on the island.edit
June Horizon. * 'June Horizon', next to Payam Cabana - near the mangroves on Buffalo Bay, has bungalows in a choice of styles with artistic design and integrated with nature. A laid back happy hippy place to stay and hang out, with a funky small beach front bar and restaurant serving delicious breakfasts and dinners.edit
Coconut Beach Resort (Coconut Bungalows), 14 Moo 1, Ao Yai, Ko Phayam, 85000 Ranong, Thailand (down Ao Yai Beach, past South Star Bar, before Ao Yai Bungalows. Around 500 m down from the taxi stop.), ☎ +66 899 208 145, . checkin: All day; checkout: 12:00. While the bungalows are well-fitted out, if a little rustic, and the food at the bar is fantastic, the real reason to come here is the warm welcome and service you will receive from the family of young people that run the resort. A beautiful location directly on the beach.300-1,000 baht. (N09º 43.320,O098º 23.648)edit
Friends Bungalow, (Ao Yai Beach - from the pier rent a scooter or hire a taxi), ☎ +66 8 18495296 (firstname.lastname@example.org), . Four sea view bungalows and eight furnished tents on elevated wooden platforms, each with own bathroom and a roof made from nature materials that protects the tent from sunshine and rain. All the windows have mosquito nets that allow the sea breeze to come in without having the room full of uninvited animals.400-1.000 Baht. (N9º 43.40,O98º 23.23)edit
Green Beach Hut, Ao Yai, Ko Phayam (Take the southern Ao Yai road, this resort is right next door to Lazy Hut), ☎ +66(0)812599894 (email@example.com). Formerly "Tonson" this resort has great value, well built bungalows all thoughtfully placed to have sea views from their porches in two rows, interiors are fully lined with bamboo matting, large bed with excellent linen and pillows, 3 power points, several lights, ceiling fan, glass windows and French doors, hammock, outside chairs or deckchairs, clothes airer and bedside table, a Thai style broom so you can sweep out beach sand, bathroom features skylight and bonsai tree. a lot of space with well kept grounds, a great restaurant with lots of choice of seating including swing platforms with Thai leaning pillows. Power is from 6pm to midnight from generator then solar backup switches on and runs til early morning (varies) generator power then takes over from 7.30am-11am. No power 11am - 6pm in rooms but there is limited power in the restaurant. Pretty much 24hr wifi. Open December to May.600 baht. edit
Lazy Hut Resort, (from the pier rent a scooter or hire a taxi (70 baht to Ao Yai). Take the road perpendicular to the beach. Go about 500 m, turn left on Tupauan Rd. Take it all the way to Ao Yai Beach (about 3 km). On the beach turn right. First is Longbeach Bungalows, next is Lazy Hut.), ☎ +66 89 724 0386 (firstname.lastname@example.org). Offers a mix of classic bamboo bungalows and brand new family style bungalows on the south end of Ao Yai, which is a bit quieter than the central area. Free Wi-Fi, electricity 09:00-24:00, tasty restaurant, and a friendly and personable staff. Has probably the best beach lounging setup on Ao Yai: shaded hammocks, lay-down cushions, tables and chairs, and beach lounge chairs. A great place for those who want to chill out for a few days or creative types looking for a longer stay.Classic bamboo bungalow 350 baht, new luxury room 700 baht, beach front luxury bungalow 1,000 baht. Discount can be negotiated for longer stays. edit
Phayam Lodge Beach Resort, (on Ao Yai Beach), ☎ +66 86 995 2598, . Offers family houses with 3 bedrooms and fully furnished kitchens. They also have beach bungalows with sunset terraces for couples just 20 m from Ao Yai Beach. Amazing sunset view. All accommodations have 24 hour electricity, air-con and Wi-Fi. The resort also offers an on-site restaurant, The Bubble Beach Bar and Phayam Divers.1,400-2,500 baht. edit
Kohphayam Sanctuary, ☎ +66-81-891-3971, . Our home rentals really exemplify the idea of sanctuary. Located amidst mango, sator, rubber and various jungle trees they are quiet yet fully equipped. website http://kohphayamsanctuary.net.edit
Vijit Bungalows, email@example.com, ☎ +66 77 834 082, . To fit almost every budget, Vijit Bunalows is a good choice at Ao Yai.300-1,500 baht. edit
Heaven Beach Resort & Art [], run by the adorable Namwaan, is a small luxury resort on Ao Kai Kwai beach. 50 sm bungalows with hot/cold open air showers, spacious porches, and a very cozy restaurant on the beach. Great sunset views can be enjoyed either from the beachfront bungalows or in the open-air restaurant. From the same owners as PP.Land Beach Resort, so customers of Heaven Beach are allowed to use all the PP.Land facilities.
PP.Land Beach Beach Resort [] is a small eco-resort run by Paul from Belgium and Pearl from Thailand. All bungalows are built to Western standards in an old cashew garden, next to a 300 m private beach. There is free WiFi and a swimming pool and they organise boat tours for their customers. The restaurant is open all day.
Sabai Sabai Bungalows A charming place with an informal, friendly atmosphere. Has 8 simple, but stylish, themed (e.g., India, Africa, Cuba) beachfront bungalows priced 200-500 baht per night. Also a restaurant serving sociable family-style meals, a cool lounge area showing movies and sports, an abundance of hammocks in which to relax, and a small sailing boat and a kayak for its customers. The Coconut Bar and the comfy hammock-filled Shisha Lounge are also both on-premises, and the establishment hosts beach parties fortnightly.