Kichijoji

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Cherry blossoms at Benzaitendo, Inokashira Park
Cherry blossoms at Benzaitendo, Inokashira Park

Kichijōji (吉祥寺) is a western suburb of Tokyo. The highlight is Inokashira Park, a large park with long walking paths surrounding a lake. The park is filled with both cherry trees and maples, making Inokashira Park an excellent choice for both flower viewing (お花見 ohanami) in the spring, and the autumn colors (紅葉 kōyō) in the fall. Kichijōji once enjoyed a reputation as an artists' colony, and today it is filled with stores from little boutiques to the big department stores. Kichijōji seems to attract everyone, from upscale shoppers to hip-hop dancers practicing in train station.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By train

Kichijōji is on the JR Chūō Line (中央線) and Sōbu Line from Shinjuku station, (総武線) and the Keio Inokashira Line (井の頭線, "Inokashira-sen")from Shibuya station . Chūō trains depart from Tokyo Station on platforms 1 and 2 (30 minutes; ¥380), and from Shinjuku on platform 10 (15 minutes; ¥210). Although the local trains stop at Kichijoji, the Rapid is always the faster choice. Fast trains designated Special Rapid, including the Chūō Special Rapid (中央特快 chūō-tokkai) and the Ome Special Rapid (青梅特快 ōme-tokkai), do not stop at Kichijoji. However, the Commuter Rapid (通勤快速 tsūkin-kaisoku) does stop. On weekends and holidays, the Chuo stops at fewer stations, but still stops at Kichijoji.

Kichijōji is also the terminus of the Keiō Inokashira Line (京王井の頭線) from Shibuya. This is by far the best way to reach Kichijoji from Shibuya, as a one way trip on the express takes only 18 minutes and costs ¥190. The local train takes far longer, so it is worth waiting for the Express if boarding at Shibuya.

[edit] By bus

Bus service connects Kichijōji directly with Narita Airport and Haneda Airport. Pick up the bus on the east side of the train station, underneath the JR tracks. Reservations are highly recommended during peak times, with tickets available at the Odakyu Bus ticket window (小田急バス案内所) on the north side of the station, across from Sun Road. Buses for Narita depart once every hour or two, require 90-120 minutes depending on traffic, and the one-way fare is ¥3000. Buses for Haneda run in the morning and evening, require 50-90 minutes, and the one-way fare is ¥1200.

[edit][add listing] See

  • Ghibli Museum (ジブリ美術館) 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi (10 minutes walk south of Kichijōji station; adjacent to Inokashira Park). 0570-055777. 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, closed Tue. This museum showcases the work of animated movie director Hayao Miyazaki, but you don't have to be an anime fan to enjoy it. Playful artwork, clever animation displays and Rube Goldberg machines recreate the atmosphere of Miyazaki's movies such as Spirited Away and Howl's Moving Castle. A themed playroom and low displays make the museum well suited for children. Entry to the museum requires reserved tickets, which are available only at Lawson convenience stores or through overseas travel agencies [1]. Admission ¥1000 age 19+/¥700 age 13-18/¥400 age 7-12/¥100 age 4-6.
  • Inokashira Park (井の頭公園 Inokashira-kōen) is a large park where extensive walking paths surround a lake, making a pleasant escape from the city. On the weekends, vendors gather along the paths to sell handmade crafts under the trees. Inokashira Park is an excellent choice to go to see both cherry blossoms and fall colors. Rental boats are available to paddle around the lake, but be careful who you go with—this is reputed to be the way to tell your lover you want to break up. The park is south of the station, and quite large so it is hard to miss. But a reasonable approach is to exit the south side of the station, continue south to Marui department store, and walk down the street on its right (west) side. This street is a stretch of boutique shops and reasonably-priced restaurants, and leads into the park.
  • Kichijoji Art Museum (吉祥寺美術館) 1-8-16 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-22-0385. [2] (Japanese only).
  • Kichijoji Theatre (吉祥寺シアター) 1-33-22 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-22-0911. [3] (Japanese only).
  • Kichijoji Anime Wonderland [4] is a large animation festival that occurs in mid-October every year. English-language tours of the festival may be available from tour operator H.I.S.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Stores in Kichijoji range from galleries and boutiques that are an outgrowth of the area's artist colony past, to the department stores Mitsukoshi, Marui and Isetan. Foreign chains such as Tower Records, Oshman's sporting goods and Lush have set up shop here as well. Sunroad is a long, covered shopping arcade on the north side of the station. Wind through narrow alleys of goods shops and yakitori restaurants in Harmonica Yokochō, also on the north side. Nakamichi Street, northwest of the station, has boutique stores and mid-range restaurants.

  • Yuzawaya (2-1-25 Kichioji-minami-cho) is a huge handicraft shop adjacent to the station. There are three floors of toys; the dedicated shopper may find interesting souvenirs on the fabric floor. [5] (in Japanese)
  • Onao (fourth floor of Loft), 0422-23-2673. [6] (in Japanese) Onao has a nice selection of traditional Japanese paper and related souvenirs.
  • Bondi Books 1-28-6-107 Kichijoji Honcho (off Itsuichikaido), 0422-23-1996, 12 PM to 8 PM closed Tu. [7]. Used English books.

[edit][add listing] Eat

  • Matsuzaka-gyū Satō (松坂牛サトウ) is famous for its deep-fried mincemeat cutlets (menchi katsu) which you can get as take-out, and there's usually a long line of customers spilling out into the shopping arcade. The shop is three minutes from the north exit.
  • Iseya (いせや), Kichijoji-minamicho 1-15-8 (south exit, on the shopping street leading to Inokashira Park), 0422-43-2806. This yakitori (grilled chicken) tavern is a Kichijoji institution, first opening in 1928. The interior scene could be straight out of a 1950's black-and-white movie, full of raucous salarymen drowning their troubles in tall glasses of beer. This is the smaller branch shop; the main shop, housed in a marvelous old wooden building from 1953 to 2006, will re-open in October 2007.
  • Monk's Foods, Gotenyama 1-2-4 (4 min. from south exit along Koen-dori), 0422-48-3977, closed Wednesdays [8]. Buddhist ascetics and quirky jazz pianists alike will feel at home at this cozy "slow food" restaurant. The fare is organically-grown, mostly vegetarian/vegan home-style Japanese. When you sit down, the owner will almost certainly ask if you can read the Japanese-only menu, if you look like you can't. If that's the case, just pick one of the three daily specials — vegetarian, fish, or chicken. Chances are you'll get something you like, along with some other exotic healthy vegetable that you won't like.
  • Bubuka (ぶぶか) 1-2-3 Minami-Kichijoji (turn left coming out of the station's south exit) 0422-41-8180. Open everyday 11:30 to midnight. The abura soba served at this ramen restaurant is a welcome break from the usual salty and soupy ramen. Actually ramen not soba, abura soba (¥550) is served with no soup, but does include the usual green onion, slice of pork, etc. An interesting addition is raw egg (nama tamago), ¥50. Look for the store with the line in front - it is a popular place.
  • Ichi-en 2-17-2 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-22-5919. If you are in the mood for some gyoza with your ramen, try Ichi-en on Nakamichi Street, on the northwest side of the station. The interior is what you'd expect from a traditional ramen shop. Be sure to try the huge gyoza, at ¥400, they are a cheap meal unto themselves.
  • Inokashira Tsuyube Hanare 1-3-1 Kichijoji Gotenyama, 0422-47-9465. To get into this izakaya located just outside of Inokashira Park, you'll have to duck to get through the low-clearance door reminiscent of traditional tea houses. Be sure to order the mackerel (saba), which will be brought to your table and cooked by the chef on the spot, using a handheld blowtorch (¥730). During peak times, reservations may be required.
  • Mo-Mo-Paradise 1-9-10 Kichijoji Honcho (in the Sunroad arcade) 0422-20-1129. All-you-can-eat shabu-shabu is paradise for people, particularly at ¥1700. Although there is no English menu, you'll only need to choose between shabu-shabu and sukiyaki.
  • Mo-Para Nabe Zo 2-13-6 Kichijoji Honcho, Q&K Bldg. 3F. [9] Another all-you-can-eat shabu-shabu restaurant run by the same people as Mo-Mo Paradise. For the uninitiated, ask to be seated next to one of the glass partitions which describes how to cook in grammatically correct English. Refill on vegetables at a salad bar. Opened in 2006. ¥1890.
  • Hun Lahun [10], Oriental Bldg. 2f, 2-2-3 Minamicho, 0422-48-7796. Multi-ethnic natural food and drinks; also DJ events and live music.
  • Shimanchu Shokudo Niraikanai 1-23-7 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-22-4877. Okinawa-themed restaurant and bar. Head downstairs for the Hawaiian-themed bar Jingle-Jangle.
  • Capricciosa 2-16-12 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-21-7881 (down a small street at the back of Tokyu department store) An Italian-style chain restaurant. Reasonably priced.
  • Zats Burger Cafe, 2-13-4 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-26-9107. 11 AM to 11 PM, until 4 AM on weekend nights. Excellent burgers in a bright and airy cafe, the specialty is the Sasebo burger, which is fried egg, cheddar cheese and bacon on a beef patty. Opened 2008. ¥690 for regular, ¥1380 for jumbo burger, fries ¥320.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

[edit] Cafes

  • Donatello's 1-15-8 Kichijoji Minamicho (on the street right of Marui dept. store, next to the park). 0422-44-8078. 10:30 AM-10:30 PM, from 10 AM on Sun. The large windows in this cafe look out into Inokashira Park, Donatello's a good place to stop after a stroll. You may find the cafe cats sunning themselves next to the windows.
  • Cat Cafe Calico, 1-5-7 Kichijoji Minamicho, Yuki Bldg. 4F (next to south exit), 0422-29-8353 (), [11]. 10 AM to 10 PM. Enjoy the company of this cafe's 15 cats as you sip your coffee or tea. An outlet for cat lovers who don't or can't keep cats at home, this cafe was covered in news wire reports in late 2007. It is relatively easy to find, leave from the central exit from Kichijoji station, turn right and it should be on the left up a busy lane, the sign is fairly discreet but it's only a minute from the station. Entrace fee ¥800, drinks from ¥150.  edit

These cafes all follow a successful formula, trendy decor with a decent selection of coffees, light meals and desserts

  • Medewo & Dine 2-13-6 Kichijoji Honcho (north of Showa dori, across from Nike store). 0422-23-8208. Open 11:30 AM to 11:30 PM. Check out the seats and service carts lifted from a Delta Air airplane. Get the espresso and brownie for ¥400.
  • St. George Cafe 2-13-7 Kichijoji Honcho. 0422-23-3123. 11 AM-10 PM. Background music from the 80s. Drink and dessert set, ¥870.
  • Sough Cafe 1-17-10 Kichijoji Minamicho, F&W Bldg. 2F (enroute to Inokashira Park from the train station), 0422-46-2718. A bright and airy cafe, dog-friendly. Some tables have game consoles to play games or watch a movie.
  • ...ful Cafe 2-17-12 Kichijoji Honcho, B1F (along Nakamichi Street), 0422-28-7039, [12] (in Japanese). 11:30 AM-10 PM (until 9PM on Sun.), closed Weds.

[edit] Bars

  • Funk Step, B1, 2-8-8 M288 Building Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-71-7801. Restaurant, Bar. A soul and funk music bar specializing in Japanese cuisine. Offering many live music events. Closed Tuesdays. Open until 5am.
  • Warp, 1-30-10 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-22-3514. warp.rinky.info. A live house with recording studios available for booking.
  • Cheeky, B1, 1-30-10 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-22-8005. [13] Formerly the annex of Warp, now independent. Musicians such as Inushiki and Latyr Sy gather there, and collaborate until the brink of dawn. Time spent there is to experience musical and artistic genius. Closed Mondays.
  • Star Pines Cafe, B1, 1-20-16 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-23-2251. [14] A large club and live house. 2 floors and stage. Next to Yodabashi Camera. Open until 6am.
  • Holic Keyaki Bldg. B1, 1-1-8 Kichijoji Minamicho (from the station's south exit, turn right), 0422-49-6638. Opened in 2005, this bar features a good selection of imported bottled beers and a couple of Japanese microbrews on tap. The food is better than average, but also a little pricey.
  • Jingle-Jangle, B1, 1-23-7 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-21-8444. Fun-filled Hawaiian-themed bar located under Shimanchu Shokudo Niraikanai.
  • Hub 1-2-7 Kichijoji Honcho, Kichijoji Arufa Bldg. B1, 0422-20-6540 (off of Sun Road). [15] The Hub is an English-style pub with locations throughout Japan.
  • Hub 1-5-7 Kichijoji Minamicho, Yuki Bldg. B1 (0422-46-3546). This second Kichijoji location of the Hub is at the station's south exit.
  • Beer Bar Bicke 2-13-7 Kichijoji Honcho, Gurandee Bldg 3F (0422-21-8775), 5 PM to 12 AM. [16] (in Japanese).
  • Alvorada, B1, 1-32-9 Kijijochi Honcho (north exit, five minutes along the train tracks to the right). A cozy Brazilian-style lanchonete (luncheonette) and bar with good food and live music.[17]

[edit][add listing] Sleep

  • Kichijoji Tokyu Inn 1-6-3 Kichijoji Minamicho. 0422-47-0109, fax 0422-43-1811. ¥12,500/22,500 for single/double. [18]