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Kashgar

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Kashgar (喀什; Kāshí; Uyghur: قەشقەر) is in the extreme west of China and the Southwest extreme of Xinjiang. It is also at a junction between two branches of the old Silk Road.

[edit] Understand

Kashgar has been an important trading center since the days of the Silk Road, and still is today. The road from Eastern and Central China branches out to both the north and south of the Taklamakan Desert, and Kashgar is where the two branches meet again in the western part of the desert.

The local population is a mixture of Uyghurs, Han Chinese, Kyrgyz, Tajiks and Uzbeks, boasting a colorful ethnic variety.

The city is said to have the largest bazaar in Asia.

The Chinese government has recently begun implementing its plan to "make the city earthquake proof" by tearing down the ancient old city and replacing it with tacky Chinese modernity.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Kashgar Airport (IATA: KHG) is 18km north of the town center. Flights are available to/from Urumqi and Islamabad. Flights are now available to Hong Kong as well. A taxi to the city should cost about yen;22 by meter. Shuttle buses are available for 10RMB per person.

[edit] By train

Kashgar Railway Station (喀什火车站; Kǎshì Huǒchēzhàn) is the main train station in the city. It is on Renmin East Road (人民东路; Rénmíndōnglù). Although it is east of the town center, the distance is too far for walking. Bus 28 connects the city including Renmin Square (人民广场; Rénmín Guángchǎng), to the train station. From the train station, walk out and turn right and you will probably see a bus waiting there already. The fare is ¥1 and is paid onboard. If you do not know where you are going, get on bus 28, get off at Renmin Square and figure things out from there; the downtown is walkable and Xinhua Bookstore (新华书店; Xīnhuá Shūdiàn), is right next to the main square where you will be able to purchase the best maps of Kashgar for about ¥5-8 (however, these maps are only in Chinese).

From the train station, Qinibagh and Seman Hotels can be reached a couple of stops after Renmin Square on bus 28 and then walking uphill for about 5 minutes; the people on the bus can probably help you and most people on the street know where these places are.

If you take a taxi from the train station, do not succumb to drivers who pounce on your back asking you where you are going. They should not be asking you and by succumbing to them you are supporting this irritating practice. Instead, go for taxi drivers on the street or those who do not bother you in your face, and be blunt to the others.

Kashgar is at the end of the Urumqi-Kashgar line, so all trains departing Kashgar go toward Urumqi. Destinations of interest include:

  • Korla - takes about 13-16 hours
  • Kuqa - takes about 9-11 hours
  • Urumqi - takes 24 or 30 hours (fast train departs Urumqi 11:21, departs Kashgar 13:00ish; hard sleeper RMB340)
  • Turpan - about 22 hours by the fast train

[edit] By bus

International Bus Station is at 5 Jicheng Road

  • Korla- takes about 16 hours
  • Kuqa- takes about 11 hours
  • Urumqi- takes about 24 hours
  • Sost, Pakistan- overnight stay at Tashkurgan required at own expense
  • Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan- takes about 16 hours including overnight stay (must have PSB permit and valid visa for Kyrgyzstan)

Kashgar Bus Station is at Tiannan Road

  • Hotan- takes about 10 hours
  • Tashkurgan- takes about 8 hours
  • Yecheng- takes about 4 hours

[edit] By car

The Karakoram Highway runs from Pakistan into China. Kashgar is the nearest major town on the Chinese end.

[edit] Get around

Most of Kashgar including the bus station, bazaar, main square, downtown (with the notable exception of the animal market) can be reached on foot within 15-20 minutes of each other if you are not carrying huge amounts of baggage. The train station is too far to walk but is reachable with public bus 28 which, among other places, stops at Renmin Square (人民广场; Rénmín Guángchǎng), the main square. The international bus station is near the city and walkable.

The old town and narrow alleyways are pretty much only explorable on foot.

Cross streets carefully in Kashgar as no pedestrian crossings are available.

Cycling is an option but the traffic is somewhat dangerous, so only do this if you are experienced with this kind of traffic environment. Bicycles can be rented at major hotels such as Qinibagh for typically less than ¥30/day.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Bazaars

  • Mal Bazaar, (Take bus 16 from Renmin Square to get there (¥1)). Sundays. The livestock market, where locals from all the surrounding villages come to town to buy and sell animals. It is held on an open and fenced ground. It is popular with tourists, but the market is so big it still feels like a working bazaar.  edit
  • Yengi Bazaar. Daily. The handicrafts, cloths, carpets and anything-else-you-can-expect market. Less crowded on weekdays. Bargain hard!  edit

[edit] Old Town

  • Old Town. The warren-like old town is worth visiting for its winding streets, friendly if occasionally guarded residents and delightfully improvised architecture. A ¥30 toll is levied at the main entrances to the residential district, but this can be evaded by finding a back entrance into the area through the multitudinous back alleys that exit onto the main roads.  edit

[edit] Other sights

  • Id Kah Mosque. Open 8:50AM-10PM though closed during services. First built in 1442, it is distinctive for its yellow walls and Central Asian architecture. Women are generally not allowed inside, but modestly dressed foreigners should have no problem. You should remove your shoes before entering the carpeted area. ¥20.  edit
  • Tomb of Apak Hoja, (It is 3km from the city center, and there are bus and taxi connections to Renmin Square). 8AM-5:30PM, prayer day is Friday. A massive, elegant building created in 1640 in typical Islamic style. Also a pilgrimage site. ¥30.  edit
  • Tomb of Yusup Khass Hajip. The tomb of Kashgar's much loved philosopher and poet who wrote the 13,290-line poem The Wisdom of Happiness and Pleasure in the Uighur language. ¥30.  edit
  • Tomb of Mahmud Kashgari, (About an hour's drive from Kashgar in Upal). The tomb of an Uyghur scribe, famous for compiling a dictionary of the Turkic languages in the 11th century. This picturesque complex is situated on a hillside and includes a mosque and a sacred spring. Upal boasts a lively bazaar too. yen;30.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

[edit][add listing] Buy

The price of everything is negotiable in Kashgar, adding to excitement of shopping. Be polite in bargaining, but be mindful that merchants will overcharge you as a foreigner especially if you do not speak Uyghur or Chinese; so bargain hard. Price differences between locals and foreigners can easily amount to several hundred yuan so be careful. Local specialties include kilims (carpets), and colorful Central Asian hats(doppa, kalpak).

[edit][add listing] Eat

There are plenty of good local restaurants and street food.

  • Food stalls. For a variety of snacks and dishes, try the food stalls opposite the Id Kah mosque. The stalls start operating during the evening.  edit
  • Sunday Market. The Sunday market also has good things to eat.  edit

It may be wise to avoid anything with ice as the ice in Kashgar is usually carried in large blocks and frequently placed on the ground so they may not be clean. During the summer months there are huge heaps of melons and watermelons - cheap, tasty and refreshing. The going price for a hami melon (哈密瓜; hāmìguā) is around ¥1 per kilogram, so in total, it costs ¥2-5 per melon depending on the size. Buying, washing, and cutting it yourself is probably the most hygenic way to eat these fabulous tasty fruits. If you are staying at a hotel, you can also easily buy a simple cutting knife at any of these markets for about ¥1-3 as well so you should be all set.

[edit][add listing] Drink

There are not as many places serving alcohol in Kashgar as in other areas of China.

  • John's Cafe, (In Qiniwak Hotel (ancient british consulate)). Offers backpacker hospitality at 1.7 times the price of other locations, and is very popular among single travellers. Managed by Jack who speaks fluent english.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • Maitian International Youth Hostel (喀什麦田国际青年旅舍; Kāshí Màitián Guójìqīngniánlǚshè), Donghulao Area, Renmin East Road (人民东路东湖老区; Rénmíndōnglù Dōnghúlǎoqū) (300m from the 11th middle school, from the Train Station you can take bus 2 or 52 to Hongshan Bus Stop (¥1) or a taxi (¥6-6.5), from the airport you can take the airport bus (¥10), bus 51 to Hongshan Bus Stop (¥1) or a taxi (¥30-35)), +86 15099003886, +86 998 2362753 (), [1]. Dorms ¥40-100.  edit
  • Qiniwak Hotel (喀什其尼瓦克宾馆; Kāshí Qíníwǎkè Bīnguǎn), 144 Seman Road (色满路144号; Sèmǎnlù) (Occupies the building that used to be the British Consulate, at the cross road with Nuoerbeixi), +86 998 2981158. Offers dorm style bedrooms in the adjacent building. More expensive doubles have free internet. Business center, currency exchange, gift shop, ticket office, karaoke, massage and sauna available. Chinese and Western Restaurants as well as coffee shop and bar. Dorms ¥50 in a three bed room; discounted rates for doubles ¥160 including breakfast.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Kashgar Guest House, Tawaguzi Road, +86 998 2612360 (fax: +86 998 2614679).  edit
  • Chini Bagh Hotel, 337 Seman Road, +86 998 2822103 (fax: +86 998 2842299). Prices for a double start at ¥70 in the older building.  edit
  • Seman Hotel (Seman Binguan), 337 Seman Road, +86 998 2582150 (fax: +86 998 2582129). In an old Russian consulate building, the rooms are oddly-shaped with simple bathrooms, common areas have high ceilings and military-themed oil paintings, 300 rooms. Prices for a double start at ¥100.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Kashi Tianyuan International Hotel (喀什天缘国际酒店; Kāshí Tiānyuán Guójìjiǔdiàn), 8 Renmin East Road (人民东路8号; Rénmíndōnglù), +86 998 2801111 (fax: +86 998 2802266). Four star hotel with large rooms with free internet and mini bar. Business center, gift shop, ticket office, karaoke, spa, massage and sauna available. Chinese restaurant coffee shop and room service. The restaurant is not good, but the 24 hour spa, massage and sauna are excellent. Listed rates for doubles ¥780-1,880 including breakfast.  edit

[edit] Get out

  • Karakul Lake - Scenic alpine lake, located on the road to Tashkorgan and Pakistan.
  • Kashgar is also near the border with Kyrgyzstan, which can be accessed via the Torugart Pass.

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