From Wikitravel

Kabul has been the capital of Afghanistan since about 1776. The city has been badly damaged during the various 1979 to 2001 wars, particularly its western parts. Kabul is currently going through a period of renovation and development, with some modern style tower blocks and a handful of glitzy shopping malls appearing over the last few years. However, roads and other infrastructure remain in poor condition, and electricity is spotty even in the downtown areas.

[edit] Understand

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Kabul International Airport (IATA: KBL), +93 9251-61001, is a short drive east of the city center. Airport facilities include banking, buffet, restaurant, post office and car parking (all very basic). Taxis are available to the city center, but it is safer to be met by someone who is known to you. Alternatively, Afghan Logistics (+93-777 443311, see below in Get Around) offers an airport pick-up for about $25. Compared to international standards, the existing airport is not very good, despite some refurbishment in 2007. A new international terminal is under construction next to the existing terminal, which is scheduled to be completed during 2008.

[edit] By car

• The highway from Kandahar has been rebuilt, but is very dangerous because of the Taliban.
• The highway from Mazar-e Sharif and the North via the Salang Pass is open, although care is needed during winter months.
• The newly rebuilt highway from Jalalabad is open which has reduced the journey time to 2-3 hours.
• From Bamiyan it is currently advisable to take the longer northern route, as the southern route is of questionable safety.

[edit] By bus

Private operators serve most destinations in fairly comfortable Mercedes buses. Safety can be a problem with frequent accidents. On August 9th, 2005, twenty people died on the Kabul - Kandahar road when two buses collided. It is debateably safer to take slightly more expensive shared taxis (Toyota Corollas) or private hire vehicles.

[edit] Get around

• Millie Bus operates many routes around Kabul, but it is faster and more comfortable to use taxis.
• Taxis are plentiful and to hire the whole car should cost around 30 to 50 Afg depending on destination and bargaining skills.
• Afghan Logistics & Tours [1] 700 277 408, 700 288 668, 700 479 435, 799 391 462. Catering mostly to expats they are probably the safest way to get around town. 24 hour minicabs are available as well as airport pickups and dropoffs. $5-7 around town, $15 to airport, $20 from airport.

[edit][add listing] See

• Babur Gardens. The gardens surround the tomb of the first Mughal Emperor Babur. Though he had wished to be buried here, he was originally buried in Agra, and later moved to this spot. It's a popular park with Afghans for picnics and lazy afternoons. 10 Af for locals, 100 Af for foreigners.  edit

• Bagh-e Zanana (Women Park), park dedicated for women only, renovated and nice place to enjoy the outdoors.

• Lake Qargha. described as Kabul's lake district is 9km from the city. Spojmai restaurant provides international cuisine. Swimming and boating are popular on the lake with plans for water skiing and jet-skis in the future. edit

• Bagh-e Bala. Another famous park in the city. edit

• Kabul Zoo. 6AM-6PM daily. The zoo is very popular with Afghans, and houses over 100 animals in relatively poor condition. China was once one of the main animal donors, but has announced no further donations until conditions improve, after the death of a couple of their animals to disease and malnutrition. Marjan the lion was blinded by a grenade and was the main draw, but succumbed to old age recently. 10 Af for locals, 100 Af for foreigners.  edit

• Afghan National Museum (several miles from the city center, across from Darulaman Palace). The Afghan National Museum once housed one of the greatest collections of Central Asian artifacts in the world. A large percentage of the previous collection was looted in the 90's during Taliban rule after the upper floors of the museum were bombed. Many of the early Buddhist treasures were destroyed by the Taliban at the same time as the Bamiyan Buddhas. Looted items still turn up around the world at auctions. The museum is open once again, with far more modest displays of early Buddhist and Islamic artifacts. edit

• Darul Aman Palace. Originally built as King Amanullah's Palace, it's been destroyed and rebuilt a few times over. Plans were unveiled a few years ago to renovate it once again though it's still in a state of crumbling disrepair on the verge of collapsing. edit

• Ariana Cinema, Pashtunistan Square. Primarily shows Bollywood or trashy action flicks, and the occasional American blockbuster. edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Kabul Golf Club, Qargha Road, ☎ +93 79 22 63 27, [2]. Closed down in 1978 by the Soviet Union, it reopened in 2004 after a 25 year hiatus. This 9-hole course bills itself as "extreme golf with an attitude". Af 750/$15 greens fee for 9 or 18 holes, or Af 15,000/$300 yearly.  edit

[edit] Learn

Read about the culture, history and people before your visit. Kabul is a maze of a city with lots of interesting historical places.

Just like every city you should take precautions and find out about the current political climate of the country.

[edit] Work

[edit][add listing] Buy

The Share-e Naw area has some shops.

• Kabul City Center next to the park has some very smart shops.

• Roshan Plaza has some quite respectable clothes shops.

• Chicken Street is famed for its tourist fare (carpets, carvings, knives etc) and pirated CD/DVD's.

• Chelsea Supermarket sells many types of western foods and products.

• Supreme Supermarket on the Jalalabad road (near the British military base) has western products, but currently no alcohol available. It is not open to Afghans. A little further down the road is Ciano, an Italian commissary. There is frequently a security alert on the Jalalabad road.

• Shah M Book Co (across from Mustafa Hotel). The best bookstore in the city, it's the place to head for your next novel, and also has a good selection of coffee table books and books about Afghanistan. The owner was the subject for the recent book The Bookseller of Kabul. Prices are high, but you'll appreciate his selection. edit

[edit] Money

ATMs are available in Kabul.

• Standard Chartered Bank [3] is in Wazir Akbar Khan.
• Afghanistan International Bank (AIB) [4] has few machines around Kabul, including one inside the Kabul City Center shopping mall. They dispense in US dollars and Afghanis, however they are often reluctant to part with any cash and sometimes dispense old, ripped notes.
• Kabul Bank [5]
• Azizi Bank [6]
• Habib Bank
• National Bank of Pakistan
• Punjab National Bank
• Western Union [7] has many offices throughout the city.
• Money ChangersMany prefer to exchange their dollars for Afghanis through the local money changers that stand on the road. Your fixer can tell you where you will get the best deal. There is no fee to exchange money this way, and more interesting than an ATM!

Be aware: it is most unlikely that your credit card will be accepted (or work) anywhere in Kabul.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Budget

• Cafe in the basement of Kabul City Center, Share-e Naw. Burger and banana drink for less than $3.

• Shar-e-now Burgers, Shar-e-now, opposite the Shar-e-now park, ☎ +93 799-300797, +93 70-255788. 10AM-10PM. Fast Food cuisine, English menu. Phone orders available. edit

• Everest Pizza, 13 Str.Wazir Akbar Khan, ☎ +93 799-317979, +93 70-263636. 9AM-9PM. Fast Food cuisine, English menu. Phone orders/ home delivery available. edit

• Afghan Fried Chicken clean westernized fast-food restaurant in Kabul City.

• Street stalls abound, and good ones can be found around Shahr-e Naw Park and near the Pul-e Khisti bridge in the old town. Hygiene may be questionable, particularly in the summer.

[edit] Mid-range

• Afghan International Pizza Express, Darulaman Road (near Ministry of Commerce and Ariana TV), ☎ +93 700 383 918. Good pizza. Destroyed during the May 2006 riots, but has since been rebuilt and has a new chef. edit

• Anaar Restaurant & Bar, Crossing of St 14, Lane 3, Wazir Akbar Khan (Between Wazir Akbar Khan circle and Heetal Plaza Hotel, towards end of St 14), ☎ +93 700 284 315 (anaarkabul@yahoo.com). 10AM-10PM. UN Security Clearance. Great Indian and Asian Cuisine. English Menu, English Speaking Staff. Phone Orders - Carry Out and Delivery Available. edit

• L’Atmosphere Restaurant, Str.4, Qala-e- fatullah, ☎ +93 799-300264, +93 700-224982. 10AM-10PM. French cuisine, French and English menu. Phone orders available. edit

• B’s Place Restaurant (Guest House), Str.2, Qala-e- fatullah House No.3, ☎ +93 70-276416, +93 70-276711. 11AM–11PM. Italian and Mexican cuisine, English menu. Phone orders available. edit

• La Cantina (East of Shar-e Nau park, about 1 block from Assa II Guesthouse), ☎ +93 798 27 19 15 (lacantinakabul@gmail.com), [8]. Tu-W 6-10PM, Th-Su 12-3PM & 6-10PM, M closed. Surely the most far-flung Mexican restaurant on the globe, serving up burritos, enchiladas, nachos and other Mexican standards. Mains Af 350-550.  edit

• Carlito's Restaurant & Bar, Str 15 Wazir Ak Khan, ☎ +93 799-159697, +93 799-167824. 10AM-10PM. Mexican cuisine, English Menu. No phone orders/home delivery edit

• Delhi Darbar, Cinema Zainab Rd, Share-e Naw (between the park and Flower St), ☎ +93 799 324 899, [9]. Great Indian food including a $6 thali. Indoor seating is intimate and spread through 3 rooms, or sit outside in the spacious garden. edit

• Deutscher Hof, Street No. 3, Qala-e-Fatullah, [10]. German restaurant. edit

• Elbowroom Restaurant & Bar, MOFA street, ☎ +93 799-352538, +93 70-254432. 10:30AM–10PM. Continental/Europe cuisine. No phone orders/home delivery. edit

• Escalades Restaurant, Macroian2, Matba block 104, ☎ +93 799-473763. 10AM–10PM. European cuisine, English menu. No phone hours/home delivery. edit

• Golden Key, No 284, Lane 4, Wazir Akbar Khan, (4th Turning on the left off St 13), ☎ +93 799-002800, +93 799-343319, [11]. 10AM–11PM. Chinese seafood restaurant. Garden dining in the summer, Sheesha, Karaoke and English breakfast on Fridays. Phone orders for take away and home delivery. edit

• The Grill Restaurant, Street 15, Wazir Akbar Khan (on junction near British embassy). Lebanese food. edit

• Hong Kong Restaurant, Wazir Akbar Khan (near Pakistani embassy). Good Chinese food edit

• Istanbul Restaurant, Macroian2, Matba block 104, ☎ +93 70-200116, +93 799-356282. 8AM–9PM. Turkish cuisine, English menu. Phone orders available. edit

• Kulba Afghan, Shar-e-now, Esmat Moslim Str. 3rd floor, ☎ +93 799452151, +93 70034979. 10AM–9PM. Afghan and Italian cuisine, English menu. No phone orders/home delivery. edit

• Lai Thai Restaurant, Str15 Wazir Ak Khan House No.124, ☎ +93 70-297557, +93 70-278640. 11AM–9PM. Thai cuisine, English menu and English speaking staff. No phone orders/home delivery. edit

• Pamir Restaurant, Bagh-e Bala road (at the Intercontinental Hotel), ☎ +93 20 2201321. Offers an excellent and cheap buffet. edit

• Park Residence Hotel. Provides a good Afghan buffet. edit

• Popolano Italian Restaurant, Charahi Ansari, Share-e Naw, ☎ +93 70-288116. 9AM-10PM. English menu, good pizza and pastas. Phone orders available. edit

• The Springfield Restaurant & Bar, Wazir Akbar Khan. Offers pizza and assorted Italian / Western fare, and has a weekly quiz night on Mondays. edit

• Sufi Afghan Restaurant, near the Intercontinental Hotel, [12].  edit

• Taverna du Liban, Street 14, Lane 3, Wazir Akbar Khan, ☎ +93 799 828 376. Excellent Lebanese restaurant. edit

• Vila Velebita Restaurant & Bar, Str 10 Wazir Ak khan, ☎ +93 799-160368. 10AM–10PM. European cuisine, English menu. No phone orders/home delivery. edit

[edit] Splurge

• Café Zarnegar, Froshgah Street (in the Kabul Serena Hotel), ☎ +93 79 9654 000, [13]. 6:30AM-10PM daily, F brunch 11AM-4PM. Tasty high-end international food and nice atmosphere, one of the nicest restaurants in the city. Their large buffet is probably the best in the country. $15-20.  edit

• Silk Route Restaurant, Froshgah Street (in the Kabul Serena Hotel), ☎ +93 79 9654 000, [14]. 6-10PM daily. Specializes in South-east Asian food, in a luxurious atmosphere. $15-20.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

At one time alcohol was available at the Military P/X shops (Supreme, Blue and Ciano's) however it is no longer available to anyone. Beer and wine can be found sporadically on the black market in local shops on Flower Street. Most expat restaurants offer beer, wine and spirits but it is unknown how long this will last given current conditions.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

• Mustafa Hotel [15]. Has a restaurant, Internet cafe and billiards. Single rooms from $30/night.

• Salsal Guesthouse, Zarghona Maidan, Shar-e Naw Park, (located between the park and the Chelsea Supermarket, and is signed in English), +93 (0) 799 734 202. Reasonably clean, shared bathrooms, friendly manager (Bashir) speaks English. Single rooms from $10/night, includes cable TV and a fan. Double rooms from $20/night.

[edit] Mid-range

• Le Monde Guest House Kabul, 7 Herati Mosque Street, Shar-e Naw Park, and Flower street.

• Park Residence Hotel, Ansari Square, Shahr-e Naw Park, +93 799 373 780, reasonable rooms with cable TV and Internet access. Internet cafe is now shifted inside the hotel near the reception (this was the site of the 2005 internet cafe suicide bombing). Single, double and triple rooms from $55/night including breakfast. Dinner buffet is $6.

• UNICA Guest House, Shar-i-Naw, Ansari Wat. Rooms starting at $25 per night--majority of rooms are $48 and $50. Facility is nice by Kabul standards and includes nice common gardens, swimming pool and Bar. Dinner buffet is $6.

[edit] Splurge

• Golden Star Hotel [16]. A clean and modern 4-star hotel, with restaurant and conference hall.

• Heetal Plaza Hotel, +93 799 167 824, [17]. A nice, quiet, relaxing and cozy place. Single room from $85/night.

• Intercontinental Hotel, Bagh-e Bala Rd, +93 20 220 1321, [18]. A great 5-star hotel with nice restaurants and a swimming pool. Single room from $90/night.

• Kabul Serena Hotel [19]. A clean and modern 5-star hotel with 3 great restaurants. Certainly the best hotel in the city, single room from $132/night. The hotel was attacked on 14th January 2008. A large explosion killed at least 7 people. The Taliban has claimed responsibility.

• Safi Landmark Hotel & Suites, Shar-e Naw Park (top 6 floors of the Kabul City Center shopping mall), +93 20 220 3131, [20]. Large conference hall, restaurant and gym area, apartments also available. Single room from $80/night.

[edit] Contact

[edit] Internet

• There are numerous internet cafes around the city, so getting access should not be too hard.

• Assa II Net Cafe, Muslim St. On the ground floor of Assa II Guesthouse, they have several computers with semi-reliable connections. 25 Afs. or $1 per hour.

[edit] Cell phones

• The cellular telephone system in Kabul is excellent. American and European phones do work on the local system.

[edit] Stay safe

[edit] Cope

Read the Scene magazine for restaurant reviews and all sorts of useful info. It is free, although expect street sellers to charge for it. There are many FM radio stations. However, the only widely available English language broadcast is from the BBC World Service on 101.6MHz.

[edit] Get out

Most expats take any opportunity they can to leave Kabul. A weekend in Dubai, day trip to the north (Shamali Plain, Salang Pass and Jabal os Saraj), Qargha Reservoir etc.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!