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Jericoacoara

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Ceará : Jericoacoara
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Jericoacoara is a small fishing village cum beach hippie mecca in Ceará, Brazil, some 300 km west of Fortaleza. Jeri, as it is affectionately known, is the kind of idyllic place where many travelers end up deciding to stay for longer than they had originally planned.

Jericoacoara is a place removed from the hurried modern world of screeching sirens, maniac deadlines, traffic jams and endless lineups. A place where streets are paved with sand, where beaches stretch as far as the eye can see and where warm water marries with palm swaying breezes. Until about 20 years ago, Jericoacoara was still a secluded and simple fishing village. There were no roads, no electricity, no phones, no TV's, no newspapers, and money was rarely used.

Since 1984, the area around Jericoacoara was declared Environmental Protection Area (APA) and became a National Park in 2002. This brought many building restrictions and tourism controls what help to preserve the area. Electricity arrived in the village and today, hot showers and air conditioning are no longer luxury articles. However, illumination of the streets is forbidden by local law.

Get in[edit]

By road[edit]

Most visitors arrive from Fortaleza, changing vehicles in Jijoca, the nearest town to Jeri with paved roads. Then a 40-80 minutes ride passing through humble rural areas, with cashew-nut trees and farm animals on both sides of the road. If coming from the west, Sobral might be a stopover, or use Camocim as your alternative gateway.

  • Buses to Jericoacoara

Only Fretcar[1] bus company (Fortaleza phone +55 85 3402 2244) can take you from Fortaleza to Jericoacoara, as they recently replaced the Redencao VIP services by their own.

From Fortaleza to Jericoacoara:

Fretcar offers two VIP buses (5,5 hours from Beira Mar to Jericoacoara / R$58) and one Executivo (7 hours from Rodoviaria to Jericoacoara 18:30h / R$42,85). "Note: Not everyday all buses are available. Check in advance." The VIP buses leave the Rodoviaria (08:00h & 16:00h) and pass at the Airport (08:30h & 16:30h) and the Beira Mar (09:00h & 17:00h), in front of the Praiano Hotel. (Always check the times - they might change!) Near Jijoca you change the bus for a jardineira, a lorry with benches, for the last hour of your trip. Purchasing your ticket: In Fortaleza you can purchase your tickets at the main Bus Terminal (Rodoviaria), at the airport ("Openpoint Tour"), or at another authorized travel agency. If you are staying at Avenida Beira Mar, Fretcar suggests you to buy your tickets at the Beach Point travel agency (phone +55-85-3242-2911) (located by the beach opposite from Nautico Atletico Cearense country club. The agency is hard to miss as it features a large Beach Park sign). The travel agency only accepts cash. If you want to purchase in advance before arriving in Fortaleza, it is possible to contact "Openpoint" by email (aeroporto@openpoint.tur.br) or by phone (+55-85-3392-1917) and pay by money transfer. Including the travel agency fee, the prices are R$50 for Executivo bus and R$65 for VIP bus.


From Jericoacoara to Fortaleza:

Departures with VIP bus from Jericoacoara at 08:00h & 15:00h - Executivo at 22:30. In Jericoacoara, all buses arrive and leave from Global Connection Travel Agency on Rua do Forró. Here you can buy your tickets in advance through email , as well as back to Fortaleza. Global Connection Travel is a licensed agency specialized in public transport. They sell flight tickets to anywhere you want, as well as buses to Belem, Sao Luis, Parnaiba, Camocim, Natal and Recife and many more destinations.

More info: Global Connection Travel Jericoacoara Tel:(88) 9900 2109 Email:globalconnectionjericoacoara@gmail.com

  • Private 4x4 trucks leave for Jijoca as soon as they are full -R$ 10 per person. Few departures after dark.
  • Car. Taking your own car is not recommended. Even 4x4s get stuck unless the driver is experienced.
  • "Carlinhos" has a 4x4 truck that takes off westwards along the beaches to Camocim, passing by Tatajuba, every morning (occasional weekend exceptions) around 07:00. His price is R$ 25, agencies charge more. The 1,5 hour drive is often delayed by picking up people before departure. Don´t buy your connection onwards from Camocim to Parnaíba in Jeri, unless they charge the official price of R$ 17,60 (prices vary depending the season).

By plane[edit]

The nearest international airport is Pinto Martins in Fortaleza, approx. 280 kilometers south-east of Jericoacoara. Still under construction is a new international airport between Cruz and Jijoca, approx. 30 kilometers from Jericoacoara. The new airport is scheduled to be operational before the end of 2012 however the date has been shifted to the future on a regular basis.

Get around[edit]

Jericoacoara is full of sandy pathways and everywhere can be reached by foot. Walking is, in fact, the best way of getting to know Jericoacoara. Only a few streets have names, guide yourself with landmarks and names of shops.

It is recommended that you use footwear, especially on the rocky patches of the beach. Since Jeri doesn’t have any street lamps, a small flashlight can be helpful on those moonless nights. You may occasionally have to share the road with a meandering mule or cow!

See[edit][add listing]

The Jericoacoara beach is reputedly one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil, although mostly too shallow for real swimming. It is made of very fine gray sand that gets hard on low tide, and is wide and flat. Every evening a crowd climbs the "Por-do-Sol" dune to watch the sunset over the ocean, a rare view in Brazil, as very little of its coast faces west.

Be sure to make a day trip at least up to Lagoa Azul - amongst stunning freshwater lagoons. There are authentic and unspoilt villages nearby where you can stay, if you want to get off the beaten track.[2] for example.

Do[edit][add listing]

Jeri is full of things to do for the active and extreme as well as for those who wish to relax and recharge.

  • Pedra Furada The Arched Rock has become the symbol of Jericoacoara. It offers beautiful vistas from all directions. If you happen to be in Jeri between June 15th and July 30th, you will have the good fortune to witness the sunset right in the middle of the Arch; it's an excellent photo opportunity. Walking east from town along the shore line you'll first pass Malhada Beach, which is a smaller beach popular with surfers. On low tide most of the beach is walkable, otherwise take the higher path up along the Serrote hill. The walk takes about 2 hours in total. You should not do this barefooted; bring footwear for the rocky patches (and occasional snakes!). Depart immediately after sunset, as the night falls quickly. Guided hikes can be arranged at many of the hostels, and this is highly recommendable if you are walking along the beach. Local guides know high and low tides better. If you take the path along the grassy dunes, you may do it on your own. You will probably find other tourist on the way.
  • Windsurfing Jericoacoara is one of the best spots in the world for windsurfing and is certainly the best spot in Brazil, for both experienced windsurfers and beginners. Various windsurf centers can be found along the main beach. The most famous is ClubVentos [3]
  • Helio Windsurf, +55 88 99462199 (), [4]. An excellent place to rent equipment or take a lesson is Club Ventos, which provides the most recent neilpryde, jp and starboard equipment..  edit
  • Kitesurfing Jeri is a hot spot for kitesurfing.
  • Jeri Kite Zone offers plenty of space and flat water. [5]
  • Dare2Fly-ClubVentos offers high quality IKO instruction and uses the latest Cabrinha equipment. For more information wwww.clubventos.com
  • Kite Center Jeri, (). The first kite school in Jeri run by the Naish team ride Beto Costa. Instructors are fluent in English and Spanish  edit
  • Skyriders Kiteschool http://www.skyriders.com +55 88 8806 3540 ask for Marko. All Skyriders Instructors are IKO certified. New North Gear.Private Teaching.
  • Aloha Kiteschool, +55 85 9982 6415 (). IKO instructor and Waroo gear.  edit
  • Capoeira At sunset, people gather on the main beach to do capoeira. Lessons can be arranged with one of the Mestres or Capoeiristas. Lessons generally take place in the morning or later afternoon.
  • Horseback Riding Ideal for short distances and those who prefer a more rustic style. It is possible to rent a horse for around R$10,00 / hour and visit Pedra Furada (Arched Rock), the nearby hills, dry mangroves or simply gallop along the beach.
  • Buggy tours The best way to get to know Jeri's surrounding area. It is best to book a buggy tour at the reception of your hotel or pousada; they know the most experienced and trustworthy local drivers.
  • Gaia Windsurf, (End of Rua de Forro, right on the beach), +55 (88) 36692150 (), [6]. Alvaro runs this small windsurf rental/school and can tailor packages for whatever you need. Thing don't alway move too fast, but service is good. It's a lot cheaper and more flexible than the bigger Club Ventos, but the equipment is also a bit more worn. Also arranges trips, transfers to/from Forteleza and anything else.  edit
  • Ivonne, Rua do Forro, Jericoacoara (over the post office), 8899086279. 1. Dancing- use your time to learn the local dance Forro, and use your skills Wendesdays and Saturdays in Forro Amelia (after midnight). Contact Ivonne for Salsa, Samba, Afroaxe as well. 30 Reais.  edit

Buy[edit][add listing]

Just along the main street, towards the beach, there are many handicraft shops where you can buy jewelry, souvenirs, etc:

  • Arte e Capoeira
  • Balaio de Couro
  • Fleur d'Amazonie
  • Jeri Arte
  • Prata da Casa
  • Meia Lua

Also, there are many narrow streets where you can find:

  • Sunglasses, Italian design & for kite and windsurf practice (OKLOS)
  • Vila Chic Boutique
  • Strep Less
  • Mangrove
  • Infinito T-shirts
  • Pé na Areia, Havaianas

etc...

  • OKLOS, Pharmacy Alley (beside Hotel Mosquito Blue). 8h00 - 12h00 & 14h00 to 23h00. Sunglasses for kite & windsurfers, kids and Italian design. Protection for your whole family! from R$ 99.  edit
  • Jericoacoara Stables (Vila Bela Vista Stables), 100 Rua dos Coqueiros, +55(88)3669-9810, [7]. 7 - 20. Jericoacoara Stables is the only Equestrian Center in Jericoacoara! Our goal is to raise happy, healthy horses and provide a safe and quality experience for guests. Jericoacoara Stables employs local guides and staff who have been professionally trained and are bi-lingual. Tours to Prea, Pedra Furada, in the National Park and all around the area. Rides vary from 1 hour to all day. various.  edit
  • Jeri Dance Studio, Rua Do Forro (First Floor over Post Office), jeridancestudio@hotmail.com. Learn to dance Forro, the local dance style, or polish your Salsa, Samba or AfroAxe, when you are in the mood show of your skills in the local dance club Forro Amelia Wendesdays and Saturdays after 12....Ivonne is the teacher and has lots of teaching experience. As well JeriDanceStudio is offering Hattha Yoga and Muay Thai. Beginners welcome  edit

Eat[edit][add listing]

Although Jericoacoara has only four main streets (all leading to the beach), it hosts a wonderful variety of restaurants and cafés. There's pizza, pasta, meat, fresh fish dishes, crepes, tapioca, and all at very affordable prices. It might take you some time for your stomach to get used to regional seasoning and water. So if you don't want to spend your holidays on the toilet, choose bars and restaurants where hygiene is evident.

  • Tempero da Terra, Rua São Francisco. Attracts an incredible amount of flies. Many dishes at R$ 5-6.  edit
  • Carcará, Rua do Forró 530, +55-88-3669-2013. This highly regarded restaurant has a wide variety of seafood dishes, from local specialties to international favorites such as sashimi and ceviche. You can choose between pleasant indoor and outdoor seating areas. Accepts Credit Cards. Price range $$$.  edit
  • Sabor a Lenha, Main road and the beach. Open for lunch and dinner. The owner is "Jorge", very popular in Jericoacoara. Everything is cooked in a wood-fired oven. Delicious! Budget $..  edit
  • Na casa dela, Main road, next to the ice-cream shop. Typical regional northeastern food in a lovely atmosphere. Mariela and Pablo own as well the ice-cream shop next to the restaurant. It's an old low stone house at the main road, you can't miss it! Only for dinner. Accepts credit cards. Budget $$..  edit
  • Café Brasil, Beco do Guaxelo, 65, +55 88 3669-2272. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. One of the first bar/restaurant in Jericoacoara, very popular for their breakfasts and sandwiches with homemade bread. Very cozy and lovely music. Accepts credit cards. Budget $..  edit
  • Pizza Nômade, Rua da Farmacia, +55 88 3669-2103. Pizzas on the wood oven, pastas, seafood, meat and salads. Charming place with very good music. Budget $$..  edit
  • Casa de Pedra, (Main road, next to restaurant Na casa dela). Homemade ice-cream in different flavours. Acai na tigela, served with cereals and banana, is very delicious, and worth trying is also tapioca, filled either with coconut, chocolate, banana or cheese... Budget..  edit
  • Naturalmente, On the shore. Good crepe with cosy atmosphere in the sunset. Lobster crepe (R$18); qualho cheese, tomato and basilico (R$9.50).  edit
  • ClubVentos Buffet, Rua da Praia (just get to the beach), +558836692288, [8]. 9:30.  edit

Drink[edit][add listing]

The best place to party is down the main road, at the beach. If you have a weak stomach, then buy your drinks at bars and restaurants. You can also try drinks from the barracas, you will find dozens of them lined up along the street. Of course the standard drink is a Caipirinha. You can also have a Caipiroska (which is the same as caipirinha but prepared with vodka instead of cachaça), or a variant based on another fruit than lemon, e.g. maracujaroska, which has vodka with maracuja (AKA passion fruit).

  • Sky Bar and Restaurant, (Main Road and the beach), [9]. open for lunch and dinner until very late at night. Accepts credit cards Mid range $$.  edit
  • Chico Drinks, Main road (Opposite Planeta Jeri). Chico Drinks is an open air bar on the main road just before it ends up on the beach (where the barracas start). The difference with the barracas is that Chico has bar stools, a blender, and very very cold beer.  edit

Sleep[edit][add listing]

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under R$50
Mid-range R$ 50-150
Splurge Over R$150

Dozens and dozens of hotels and inns in all price ranges.

  • Jerihomestay - House Rental, rustic house well equipped can be your home away from home, www.facebook.com/casadasmeninas, (), [10]. according your budget.  edit

Budget[edit]

  • Cumelen Bed & Windsurf, Beco do Serrote s/n, +55 88 3669 2187, +55 88 9601-4106, offices in Argentina: + 54 11 5256 7432 (), [11]. Lovely little guesthouse with excellent breakfast and cozy outdoor social area. A bit off Jeri's nightlife and shops, but only 5 minutes from the beach. Spanish, Portuguese and English spoken.  edit
  • Jeri Athome Guesthouse, Rua Principal (Beside Laundry PH Neutro), 55-88-36692078 (), [12]. Blends the home-like amenities of a guesthouse with the chill-out atmosphere of a hostel. Comfortable en-suites, some with private balcony. Free use of a fully equipped kitchen. Large garden and spacious veranda with hammocks. WiFi internet, multilingual owner.  edit
  • Pousada Juventude Familiar, Rua do Forró, [13]. Double R$ 40, negotiable.  edit
  • Relax in Brazil, Near Caicara, (), [14]. Great house amongst the lagoons near Lagoa Azul, if you want to get away from it all, in the trees, 16 km from Jeri, in an authentic small community  edit
  • Casa das Meninas HomeStay, Rua das Dunas, (), [15]. Affordable, cozy and comfortable home-stay! Wi-Fi connection is available to use with own laptop. You will be able to use our kitchen for self-catering and BBQ area as well. Your home away from home! Single R$ 40 to R$ 60.  edit

Mid-range[edit]

  • Pousada Calanda, Rua das Dunas (approx. 100 meters from the beach), +55(88)3669-2285, [16]. Calanda offers bed & breakfast with a flowerful garden, many relax areas, and a swimming pool. The breakfast buffet includes real fruit juice, and freshly prepared eggs, pancakes, or tapioca (pancakes made of manioc flower) on demand. Calanda is located close to the beach next to the famous Sunset Dune.  edit
  • Pousada do Serrote, Rua da Igreja, 480, +55 (88) 3669-2299 (jeriserrote@gmail.com), [17]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00. Quiet and Beautiful Pousada em Jericoacoara, unique. Suites and Chales with Air-con, Tv-LCD, free Wi-Fi, Swimming Pool, etc. Portuguese, English, French and Spanish. From R$ 120.  edit
  • Pousada Maurizio, Rua Prinicipal. checkin: noon; checkout: noon. Nice Italian owned property. Nice admosphere, bar and breakfast. Good rooms with A/C. Good value. R$ 80 for double.  edit
  • Pousada Tirol, Rua São Francisco, 202, +55(88)3669-2006, [18]. Good breakfast until 11:00. Dorm R$ 32, Single R$ 50, Double R$ 75, Camping R$ 8, Discounts for HI cardholders..  edit
  • Recanto do Barao, Rua do forro, 433, +55(88)3669-2136; +55(85)3266-4005, [19]. Fantastic breakfast, air-con, hot water, two pools, internet, laundry service, friendly atmosphere. Owner fluent in English and Spanish.  edit
  • Vila Bela Vista, +55 (88)9962 9810; +55(88)3669 92359 (), [20]. Number one on Trip Advisor! Unique and friendly bed and breakfast with 13 comfortable rooms: great matresses, free WiFi, air-con, hot water, pool, decks and more. Owners fluent in English, Portuguese and Spanish. Rooms from R$ 370.  edit
  • Pousada Aqua, Rua do Forro 147, +55 (85) 9755 1222 (), [21]. checkin: 14h00; checkout: 11h00. very nice atmosphere, delicious breakfast served until 12hh00. Closed to good restaurants, bars and the beach. Free WiFi, air-con, minifridge, safe box, hot shower, tv. Portuguese, English and Italian spoken.  edit

Splurge[edit]

  • Pousada Galoo, Rua do Forró, 11 (On the principal Beach with Forró Street - SEA VIEW!!!), +55 88 99885027, [22]. checkin: 2pm; checkout: 12pm. Pousada Galoo is located in one of the best spots of Jeri!!! Right on the principal beach, and close to everything you need on the city. The rooms are all sea view, with balcony, Air Conditioner, TV, Wi-Fi, hammock, hot shower, walk-in closet. Breakfast is all home made. The Pousada offers private/shared transfer and tours. Reservations: info@pousadagaloo.com R$150,00 - R$ 350,00.  edit
  • Mosquito Blue, [23]. One of the nicer hotels in the area. Basic accommodations in a beautiful setting. The hotel also offers private transportation to / from Fortaleza.  edit
  • Hotel Villa Terra Viva, Rua do Forro, 00558899678739, [24]. Great view to the ocean, big swimming pool with Jacuzzi, delicious breakfast-buffet and very comfortable rooms. Hotel Villa Terra Viva is 4* hotel built in portuguese colonial style. Reservations: reservas@hotelterraviva.com.br All credit cards accepted. R$ 170 - 320.  edit

Stay healthy[edit]

The small pharmacy in Jeri has a limited stock of medications.

Contact[edit]

  • Area Code 88
  • There are many cafés where you can access internet in Jeri and hotels where you can connect your laptop using wireless connection.
  • Best option for information, internet, bus- and flight tickets is Global Connection, on Rua do Forro. They can help you to get around in Jeri - as well as to get out of Jeri to any place you want.

Cope[edit]

  • Many pousadas and restaurants will accept Visa or MasterCard. Some hotels and restaurants change dollars or euros for reais, at poor rates.
  • You can get cash advances on your credit card at the supermarket Tem Tudo, at a 10-15% commission. There are NO cash machines in Jericoacoara, the nearest being 23km away in Jijoca (Does not accept international cards).
  • Traveller Cheques are NOT accepted.
  • Laundries are plentiful.

Get out[edit]

It is possible to charter a dune buggy to virtually anywhere. They will take you to the fresh water lagoons for about R$ 30 per person.

Innumerable fresh water pools, or lagoons, are located throughout the expanses of dunes that surround Jeri. Near the village there are only small pools mostly frequented by cows and horses. However, if you venture into the dunes, you will soon find lagoons and small rivers running as far as the eye can see in the "valleys" that lie between the dunes. The bottom of these pools is sandy, which makes them excellent for swimming, wading, and water sports. Near constant winds make the lagoons a favorite spot for wind surfing. Because the sand constantly changes shape and alters the landscape, the locations of the pools change as well. To discover a favorite swimming spot in one of these lagoons is to carve out a unique and ephemeral natural experience that is only more beautiful for the fact that it can't be repeated next year.

  • Day-long buggy tours are offered to the village of Tatajuba, which had to be moved to escape invading sand dunes! If you are heading west, consider staying for a night.

You can go to the Lençois Maranhenses from Jeri although it is much easier to get there from São Luis. From Jeri there are two main options:

  • get a 4x4 directly to Barreirinhas which takes around 7 hours, costs R$1200 for up to 4 people. The Brasil Discovery agency in Barreirinhas [25] may have a solution much cheaper if they have someone in Jeri the day you leave. There are also several places that offer a tour of 3 days for the Lençois for R$1500 (only transport). Bargain the price, especially during low season!
  • get buses and vans from Jeri to Barreirinhas via Camocim, Parnaíba, Tutoia, Paulino Neves. You can book part of the trip at Global Connection, on Rua do Forró in Jeri. It takes two days (one night in Tutoia) and costs around R$150.



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