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Jericoacoara is a small fishing village cum beach hippie mecca in Ceará, Brazil, some 300 km west of Fortaleza. Jeri, as it is affectionately known, is the kind of idyllic place where many travelers end up deciding to stay for longer than they had originally planned.

Jericoacoara is a place removed from the hurried modern world of screeching sirens, maniac deadlines, traffic jams and endless lineups. A place where streets are paved with sand, where beaches stretch as far as the eye can see and where warm water marries with palm swaying breezes. Until about 20 years ago, Jericoacoara was still a secluded and simple fishing village. There were no roads, no electricity, no phones, no TV's, no newspapers, and money was rarely used.

Since 1984, the area around Jericoacoara was declared Environmental Protection Area (APA) and became a National Park in 2002. This brought many building restrictions and tourism controls what help to preserve the area. Electricity arrived in the village and today, hot showers and air conditioning are no longer luxury articles. However, illumination of the streets is forbidden by local law.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By Road

Most visitors arrive from Fortaleza, changing vehicles in Jijoca, the nearest town to Jeri with paved roads. Then a 30-60 minutes ride passing through humble rural areas, with cashew-nut trees and farm animals on either side of the road. Depending if it is rainy season or not, the last 15 minutes you travel across the dunes or by the seaside. If coming from the east, Sobral might be a stopover, or use Camocim as your alternative gateway.

• The only bus company is Redenção [1]. Bus takes around 7 hours total, twice daily. In Jijoca you change for a jardineira, a lorry with benches.
• Private 4x4 truck. English-speaking "Vitor" (aka Cabeça), a Minas Gerais-native with a brand new 4x4 Toyota Hilux, drives safely, is very friendly and you can hire him for your other excursions as well. Mobile: +55-88-9616-6393.
• Car. Taking your own car is not recommended, even less so in the wet season. Many 4x4 cars and SUVs get stuck no matter how good or new they are.
• "Carlinhos" has a 4x4 truck that takes off westwards along the beaches to Camocim every morning (occasional weekend exceptions) around 07:00. His price is R$ 25, agencies charge more. The 1,5 hour drive is often delayed by picking up people before departure. Don´t buy your connection onwards from Camocim to Parnaíba in Jeri, unless they charge the official price of R$ 13 (prices vary depending the season).

[edit] By Air

A 2500 metres runway is scheduled for completion mid 2010 in Jijoca. The tourist industry is hoping for direct flights to Europe.

[edit] Get around

Jericoacoara is full of sandy pathways and everywhere can be reached by foot. Walking is, in fact, the best way of getting to know Jericoacoara. Only a few streets have names, guide yourself with landmarks and names of shops.

It is recommended that you use footwear, especially on the rocky patches of the beach. A tiny piece of broken glass or rusted nail hidden by sand may ruin your entire stay! Since Jeri doesn’t have any street lamps, a small flashlight can be helpful on those moonless nights. You may occasionally have to share the road with a meandering mule or cow!

[edit][add listing] See

The Jericoacoara beach is reputedly one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil, although mostly too shallow for real swimming. It is made of very fine gray sand that gets hard on low tide, and is wide and flat. Every evening a crowd climbs the "Por-do-Sol" dune to watch the sunset over the ocean, a rare view in Brazil, as very little of its coast faces west.

[edit][add listing] Do

Jeri is full of things to do for the active and extreme as well as for those who wish to relax and recharge.

• Pedra Furada The Arched Rock has become the symbol of Jericoacoara. It offers beautiful vistas from all directions. If you happen to be in Jeri between June 15th and July 30th, you will have the good fortune to witness the sunset right in the middle of the Arch; it's an excellent photo opportunity. Walking east from town along the shore line you'll first pass Malhada Beach, which is a smaller beach popular with surfers. On low tide most of the beach is walkable, otherwise take the higher path up along the Serrote hill. The walk takes about 2 hours in total. You should not do this barefooted; bring footwear for the rocky patches (and occasional snakes!). Depart immediately after sunset, as the night falls quickly. Guided hikes can be arranged at many of the hostels, and this is highly recommendable if you are walking along the beach. Local guides know high and low tides better. If you take the path along the grassy dunes, you may do it on your own. You will probably find other tourist on the way.
• Windsurfing Jericoacoara is one of the best spots in the world for windsurfing and is certainly the best spot in Brazil, for both experienced windsurfers and beginners. Various windsurf centers can be found along the main beach. Most people will undoubtedly recommend you take lessons or hire equipment with "Helio", a Jeri-native windsurf instructor who is very experienced with tourists from all over the world. Helio Windsurf, ☎ +55 88 99462199 (info@cumelen.com.br), [2]. neilpryde, jp and starboard equipment.  edit
• Kitesurfing is also on offer, reportedly with the best conditions from July to January. You cannot kite surf on the main beach due to safety reasons; ask the locals.

[edit][add listing] Do

• Kite Center Jeri, (kitejeri@hotmail.com). The first kite school in Jeri run by the Naish team ride Beto Costa. Instructors are fluent in English and Spanish  edit
• Skyriders Kiteschool (www.skyriders.com) +55 88 8806 3540 ask for Marko. All Skyriders Instructors are IKO certified. New North Gear.Private Teaching.
• Aloha Kiteschool, ☎ +55 85 9982 6415 (andreajeri@gmail.com). IKO instructor and Waroo gear.  edit
• Capoeira At sunset, people gather on the main beach to do capoeira. Lessons can be arranged with one of the Mestres or Capoeiristas. Lessons generally take place in the morning or later afternoon.
• Horseback Riding Ideal for short distances and those who prefer a more rustic style. It is possible to rent a horse for around R$10,00 / hour and visit Pedra Furada (Arched Rock), the nearby hills, dry mangroves or simply gallop along the beach.
• Buggy tours The best way to get to know Jeri's surrounding area. It is best to book a buggy tour at the reception of your hotel or pousada; they know the most experienced and trustworthy local drivers.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Just along the main street, towards the beach, there are many handicraft shops where you can buy jewelry, souvenirs, etc.

Check out these shops:

• ARTE E CAPOEIRA, BALAIO DE COURO, FLEUR D'AMAZONIE, JERI ARTE, PRATA DA CASA, MEIA LUA

Ask at your pousada or hotel for directions.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Although Jericoacoara has only four main streets (all leading to the beach), it hosts a wonderful variety of restaurants and cafés. There's pizza, pasta, meat, fresh fish dishes, crepes, tapioca, and all at very affordable prices. It might take you some time for your stomach to get used to regional seasoning and water. So if you don't want to spend your holidays on the toilet, choose bars and restaurants where hygiene is evident.

• Tempero da Terra, Rua São Francisco. Attracts an incredible amount of flies. Many dishes at R$ 5-6.  edit
• Carcará, Rua do Forró 530, ☎ +55-88-3669-2013. This highly regarded restaurant has a wide variety of seafood dishes, from local specialties to international favorites such as sashimi and ceviche. You can choose between pleasant indoor and outdoor seating areas. Accepts Credit Cards. Price range $$$.  edit
• Sabor a Lenha, Main road and the beach. Open for lunch and dinner. The owner is "Jorge", very popular in Jericoacoara. Everything is cooked in a wood-fired oven. Delicious! Budget $..  edit
• Na casa dela, Main road, next to the ice-cream shop. Typical regional northeastern food in a lovely atmosphere. A must! "Mariela" and "Pablo" own as well the ice-cream shop next to the restaurant. It's an old low stone house at the main road, you can't miss it! Only for dinner. Accepts credit cards. Budget $$..  edit
• Café Brasil, Beco do Guaxelo, 65, ☎ +55 88 3669-2272. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. One of the first bar/restaurant in Jericoacoara, very popular for their breakfasts and sandwiches with homemade bread. Very cozy and lovely music. Accepts credit cards. Budget $..  edit
• Pizza Nômade, Rua da Farmacia, ☎ +55 88 3669-2103. Pizza Budget $$..  edit
• Casa de Pedra, (Main road, next to restaurant Na casa dela). Homemade ice-cream in different flavours. Acai na tigela, served with granola and banana, is very delicious, and worth trying is also tapioca, filled either with coconut, chocolate, banana or cheese... Budget..  edit
• Naturalmente, On the shore. Considered the best crepe in Brazil, with more than 12 years in the beach with the cosiest atmosphere in the sunset. Don´t miss the lobster crepe (R$18) and qualho cheese, tomato and basilico (R$9.50).  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

The best place to party is down the main road, at the beach. If you have a weak stomach, then buy your drinks at bars and restaurants. You can also try drinks from the barracas, you will find dozens of them lined up along the street.

• Sky Bar and Restaurant, (Main Road and the beach), [3]. open for lunch and dinner until very late at night. Accepts credit cards Mid range $$.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

There are pousadas and hotels in a varying range of prices and locations which will suit all budgets and demands.

• Vila Bela Vista, ☎ +55 (88)9962 9810; +55(88)3669 92359 (info@vilabelavista.com), [4]. Unique and friendly bed and breakfast with 13 comfortable rooms: great matresses, air-con, hot water, pool, decks and more. Owners fluent in English, Portuguese and Spanish. Rooms from R$ 98..  edit
• Cumelen Bed & Windsurf, Beco do Serrote s/n, ☎ +55 88 3669 2187, +55 88 9601-4106, offices in Argentina: + 54 11 5256 7432 (info@cumelen.com.br), [5]. Lovely little guesthouse with excellent breakfast and cozy outdoor social area. It's luckily a bit off Jeri's busy nightlife and shops, but only 5 minutes from the best beach. Great place to unwind after the madness of the big cities. Spanish, Portuguese and English spoken. Budget $.  edit
• Athome Guesthouse, Rua Principal (Beside Laundry PH Neutro), ☎ 55-88-36692078 (jeriathome@gmail.com), [6]. Homely little hostel in excellent location. Comfortable ensuites, large garden and veranda with hammocks, equipped kitchen. Free internet, friendly multilingual owner. $Budget.  edit
• Pousada Juventude, Rua do Forró. Double R$ 30, negotiable.  edit
• Pousada Tirol, Rua São Francisco, 202, ☎ +55(88)3669-2006, [7]. Good breakfast until 11:00. Dorm R$ 32, Single R$ 50, Double R$ 75, Camping R$ 8, Discounts for HI cardholders..  edit
• Hotel Villa Terra Viva, Rua do Forro, ☎ 00558899678739, [8]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00. Great view to the ocean, big swimming-pool with jacuzzi, delicious breakfast-buffet and very comfortable rooms: Thats Hotel Villa Terra Viva, a very familiar four star hotel built in portuguese colonial stil. Reservations: reservas@hotelterraviva.com.br All credit cards accepted. RS 170 - 320.  edit
• Mosquito Blue, [9]. On of the nicer hotels in the area. Basic accomodations in a beautiful setting. The hotel also offers private transportation to / from Fortaleza. $$$$.  edit

[edit] Contact

As Jericoacoara is so remotely located, do not expect the luxuries of a big city. Instead, relax and enjoy Nature at its best! Great place to unwind after the madness of the big cities.

• Area Code 88

[edit] Cope

• Many pousadas and restaurants will accept Visa or MasterCard. Some hotels and restaurants usually change dollars or euros for reais, at poor rates. There are NO cash machines in Jericoacoara. The nearest ATM is 23km away in Jijoca (Banco do Brasil in Gijoca; ATM 6am-5pm). It accepts international cards.

Traveller Cheques are NOT accepted.

• Laundries are plentiful.

• Internet

There are many cafés where you can access Internet in Jeri and hotels where you can connect your laptop using wireless connection.

[edit] Stay healthy

The small pharmacy in Jeri has a limited stock of medications.

[edit] Get out

It is possible to charter a dune buggy to virtually anywhere. They will take you to the fresh water lagoons for about R$ 30 per person.

Innumerable fresh water pools, or lagoons, are located throughout the expanses of dunes that surround Jeri. Near the village there are only small pools mostly frequented by cows and horses. However, if you venture into the dunes, you will soon find lagoons and small rivers running as far as the eye can see in the "valleys" that lie between the dunes. The bottom of these pools is sandy, which makes them excellent for swimming, wading, and water sports. Near constant winds make the lagoons a favorite spot for wind surfing. Because the sand constantly changes shape and alters the landscape, the locations of the pools change as well. To discover a favorite swimming spot in one of these lagoons is to carve out a unique and ephemeral natural experience that is only more beautiful for the fact that it can't be repeated next year.