Jericoacoara

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South America : Brazil : Northeast : Ceará : Jericoacoara
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Jericoacoara is a small fishing village cum beach hippie mecca in Ceará, Brazil, some 300 km west of Fortaleza. Jeri, as it is affectionately known, is a place where pavement does not exist and there is sand under every step. It is the kind of idyllic place where many travelers end up deciding to stay for longer than they had originally planned.

Although the beach itself tends to disappoint many travellers, -mostly too shallow for a swim, rather muddy on low tide, the surrounding are very pleasant indeed.

Rocky formation in Jericoacoara
Rocky formation in Jericoacoara

[edit] Get in

There are no permanent roads in or out of Jericoacoara. It can be accessed only by dune buggy or truck, -most visitors arriving via Jijoca. Pick up trucks do this 40 min bumpy run every hour or so, R$ 5. In Fortaleza dozens of agencies offer package deals, but you mostly get by cheaper on your own, taking a Redenção [1] bus, twice daily, and shopping around for a bed. "Carlinhos" has a 4x4 truck that takes off westwards along the beaches to Camocim every morning around 07:00. His price is R$ 25, agencies charge more. The 1,5 hour drive is mostly delayed by individual pick ups before departure. Don´t by your connection onwards from Camocim to Parnaíba in Jeri, unless they charge the official price of R$ 13.

[edit] Get around

Jericoacoara is full of sandy pathways and everywhere can be reached by foot. You may well find a stray cow or frog along the way, but you can make do without using footwear for your entire stay! (The latter does not apply on rocky patches of the beach)

[edit][add listing] See

The Jericoacoara beach is reputedly one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil, and more and more people ask themselves why. It is made of very fine gray sand, and is wide and flat. Every evening you can find a crowd climbing the "Por-do-Sol" dune to watch the sunset over the ocean. Because the land juts out northward into the ocean creating a westward-facing beach, Jeri is one of very few spots in Brasil where this can be done.

[edit][add listing] Do

Guided hikes can be arranged at many of the hostels, but mostly you should be able to find your way by asking around. Pedra Furada (on the photo above) is a popular sunset spot, about 45 min walk from the village. On low tide most of the beach is walkable, -bring footwear for the rocky pathces, otherwise take a path along the dunes. Depart immediately after sunset, as the night falls quickly. Windsurfing is very popular. Fairer winds in the mornings for beginners. 3-5 hour board rental with basic instructions over several days for R$ 150.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Just along the main street, towards the beach, there are a few artesanal shops and a small market where you can buy jewellery, souvernirs, etc.

Jeri suffers from constant over-pricing! If you shop around and haggle, you can come by only slightly more expensively than in Fortaleza. Never believe those who state that "everything" is that same price, -they are ripping you off. Also be suspicious towards unposted prices, they could be as much as doubled if you look like you could afford it.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Cheap eats can be had for R$ 5 (rice, beans and fish/meat) in several simple restaurants.

  • Reggea Pizza, Rua Principal. Boring spaghetti edit
  • Tempero da Terra, Rua São Francisco. Attracts an incredible amount of flies. Many dishes at R$ 5-6.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

Overpriced, unless you go for a caipirinha from the stalls. Large beers can be had from tiny shops at R$ 2,50 - 3 a bottle. Every day has its "party", that mostly charges R$ 5 entry. Ask any local.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

The very cheapest accommodation can probably be had in private rooms, typically R$ 20 a night.

  • At Home Guesthouse, 55-88-36692078 (). Home-style budget accommodation in a private residence with privileged location. Large garden and breeze veranda, fully equipped self-catering kitchen. 3 exclusive en-suites (bedroom-bathroom), comfortably furnished. Fair prices, long-term discounts. Owner is fluent in Portuguese, English and German. edit

  • Pousada Juventude, Rua do Forró. Double R$ 30, negotiable.  edit

  • Pousada Tirol, Rua São Francisco. Good breakfast until 11:00. Dorm R$ 32, Single R$ 50, Double R$ 75, Camping R$ 8, Discounts for HI cardholders..  edit

  • Vila Bela Vista, +55 (88)9962 9810; +55(88)3669 92359 (), [2]. Unique and friendly bed and breakfast with 13 comfortable rooms: great matresses, air-con, hot water, pool, decks and more. Owners fluent in English, Portuguese and Spanish. Rooms from R$ 98..  edit

[edit] Other services

Internet is painfully slow and expensive, -average price R$ 6 an hour. Laundries are plentiful.

[edit] Get out

It is possible to charter a dune buggy to virtually anywhere. They will take you to the fresh water lagoons for about R$ 30 per person.

Innumerable fresh water pools, or lagoons, are located throughout the expanses of dunes that surround Jeri. Near the village there are only small pools mostly frequented by cows and horses. However, if you venture into the dunes, you will soon find lagoons and small rivers running as far as the eye can see in the "valleys" that lie between the dunes. The bottom of these pools is sandy, which makes them excellent for swimming, wading, and water sports. Near constant winds make the lagoons a favorite spot for wind surfing. Because the sand constantly changes shape and alters the landscape, the locations of the pools change as well. To discover a favourite swimming spot in one of these lagoons is to carve out a unique and ephemeral natural experience that is only more beautiful for the fact that it can't be repeated next year.

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