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Isaan

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Isaan (อีสาน; also Isan, Isarn and even Esarn), Thailand's north-east region, is an often overlooked part of the country. There's no coastline, so there are no beaches to draw in the sun hungry crowds; however, Isaan is a multicultural area where Laos, Cambodia and Thailand meet, and has a rich history. A mainly agricultural region, it's the poorest part of Thailand. There's a good chance that your tuk-tuk driver or favorite bargirl in Bangkok originally hailed from Isaan, but went to the big city in search of work.

Regions of Isaan
Regions of Isaan
Northern Isaan
The great Mekong Valley with beautiful scenery.
Central Isaan
The highway from Bangkok ends here in Khon Kaen.
Southern Isaan
The chaotic Nakhon Ratchasima, the nature of Khao Yai National Park, the elephants of Surin and beautiful Khmer architecture in Phimai and Surin, also close to Preah Vihear.

[edit] Cities

  • Khon Kaen - the highway from Bangkok ends here
  • Loei - known for its numerous high hills, mountains and is one of Thailand's vineyards
  • Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) - the chaotic main city of Isaan
  • Nong Khai - gateway to Vientiane
  • Phimai - town known for the historical site of Khmer architecture
  • Roi Et - home to the tallest standing Buddha image of the world, Phra Phuttha Rattana Mongkhon
  • Surin - known for its elephant parades and Khmer temples
  • Ubon Ratchathani - almost always shortened to simply "Ubon"
  • Udon Thani - best known for the archaeological site Ban Chiang

[edit] Other destinations

[edit] Understand

Isaan is a wonderful part of Thailand to visit if you became tired of Khao San Road, one temple after another, or the tropical beaches. The relative isolation and underdevelopment of the area means that Isaan is one of the poorest regions of Thailand; this also means that it is a good place to get a little off the beaten track and discover Thailand's agricultural roots and natural scenery.

[edit] Climate

[edit] Talk

While the national language Thai is used in schools and thus well-understood, the local Isaan dialect, which is a dialect of Lao, is predominant. Khmer is also widely spoken in areas near the Cambodian border. Although the person you meet in the market might speak little or no English, it's more likely than not that they are already bilingual or multilingual.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

The cities of Khon Kaen, Nakhon Phanom, Sakon Nakhon, Ubon Ratchathani and Udon Thani can be reached by plane from Bangkok on both Thai Airways and Air Asia, but there are few if any air links elsewhere.

[edit] By bus

Frequent bus services go everywhere.

[edit] By train

Regular train services connect Bangkok with Ubon Ratchathani (via Nakhon Ratchasima, Buriram, Surin, Si Saket and other stations along the way) and Nong Khai (via Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, etc).

[edit] Get around

Depending on where you're coming from and where you want to get to, buses, minibuses, songthaews, motorbikes and bicycles are all good ways to get around.

The train system is also a good way to get around, however the number of locations served is limited.

[edit][add listing] See

Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai
Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai
  • The surreal statues of Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai

[edit][add listing] Do

[edit][add listing] Eat

Clockwise from top right: Sticky rice, minced pork larb, som tam and raw vegetables on the side
Clockwise from top right: Sticky rice, minced pork larb, som tam and raw vegetables on the side

Isaan cuisine borrows heavily from Lao cuisine and is distinctly different from central Thai cooking, although there has been a considerable amount of cross-pollination. Perhaps the best-known Isaan dish is som tam (or tam mak hung in Lao/Isaan), a spicy salad prepared from unripe papayas. While Thais prepare this with dried shrimp, in Isaan the preferred style is with preserved crab (puu) or mudfish, an acquired taste. Other characteristic dishes include roast chicken (kai yaang), sticky rice (khao niaw) and a wide variety of cold meat, mint and lemon juice "salads" known as larb.

A word of warning: Isaan food is known even among Thais for being fiery hot!

[edit][add listing] Drink

The main drink in Isaan is a wonderful spirit which combines orange juice with chilly peppers and rum. It is a must for all visitors.

[edit] Stay safe

[edit] Get out

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