Hong Kong/Wan Chai

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Asia : East Asia : China : Hong Kong : Wan Chai
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Wan Chai is an administrative district of Hong Kong Island

[edit] Districts

  • Wan Chai

Wan Chai is much more than a couple of blocks of girlie-bars populated by drunken American sailors; after all, the World of Suzie Wong was just a work of fiction set in Wan Chai during a bygone age. Located between Causeway Bay and Admiralty, Wanchai has an inner-city feel that makes it an interesting but safe area to walk around at any time. Wan Chai has traditional street markets that, unlike many other neighbourhoods, are still outdoors. In the so-called wet-markets, butchers hang animal carcasses on large hooks that overshadow pavements and fishmongers have stalls with live fish that do their best to escape. Between Johnston Road and Queen's Road East are numerous alleys that are worth exploring if you are looking for traditional family-run shops selling anything from tropical fish to cheap clothing.

  • Causeway Bay

A shopping district that is home to large department stores, such as Sogo. Causeway Bay is crowded most of the time but here you can eat and shop until very late. Some major supermarkets and eateries stay open 24 hours. Times Square in Causeway Bay is a major focal point, especially at the 'calendar' New Year when you will be wise to stay away if you hate crowds.

  • Happy Valley

Nestled behind the Happy Valley Racecourse, away from the MTR line, this district has a more laid-back feel than nearby Wan Chai and Causeway Bay. Happy Valley was not always the happiest place to be. When the first British troops were stationed in Happy Valley the death rate from malaria was so high that, with typical British sarcasm, the place was dubbed Happy Valley. It is a popular residential area, especially among expats. There is a tram line circling the racecourse that serves the district. This area is also home to the beautiful and historic Hong Kong Cemetery.

[edit] Get in

  • Ferry

The Star Ferry arrives at Wan Chai Pier from Hung Hom and Tsim Sha Tsui.

  • MTR

The Tsuen Wan Line from Kowloon passes Admiralty. From here the Island Line passes through Wan Chai and Causeway Bay stations.

  • Tram

The tram runs from Kennedy Town to Sai Wan Ho.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

The harbour-front at Wan Chai is host to one of Hong Kong's most outstanding buildings - the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Take directions from the MTR to find this remarkable building; alternatively, take the Star ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to arrive at the Wan Chai ferry terminal - sit on the right-hand-side of the ferry and have your camera ready to take shots of the Convention Centre as you sail towards Wan Chai. If you are refused admittance, you can take a walk around to the promenade at the front of the building to find the place where the British returned Hong Kong to mainland China. The spot near where the Handover took place in 1997 is marked by a monument in the form of a giant golden bauhinia. The bauhinia tree is sometimes known as the Hong Kong orchid and has been adopted as the emblem of the SAR. For the many tourists from mainland China, this place holds a special significance, so you can expect a steady stream or tour buses.

[edit] Horse Racing

Horse Racing has been taking place at Happy Valley racetrack since 1846. Happy Valley is particularly impressive during the evening meets with the surrounding skyscrapers lit up. Unless you know the right sort of people your best chance of getting into the races is by the pubic entrance. Entrance will cost you just a few dollars and you will have the advantage of being at ground level next to the race track. Alcohol, especially beer, is sold at cheap prices. Unless you like fast-food, plan to eat before or after gambling away your holiday savings.

[edit] View

Central Plaza [1] can be seen from all of Wan Chai. It is actually possible to tell the time by the changing lights on the top of this building. During business hours, you can take the lift from the ground floor to the sky lobby on the 46th floor to get a spectacular free view of the harbour and the island.

[edit] Noon Day Gun

Across from the World Trade Center, near Causeway Bay, is the historic Noon Day Gun, deemed thus because it is fired every day at noon. To access the Noon Day Gun, enter the underground tunnel between the World Trade Center and the Excelsior Hotel and follow the signs. Finding this subway is difficult and you might need to ask staff for directions. The tradition of firing a gun into Victoria Harbour everyday at noon dates back to the 1860s. It is believed that this is the gun referred to in Noel Coward's song "Mad Dogs and Englishmen".

[edit][add listing] Do

[edit] Victoria Park

Victoria Park is located next to the busy Causeway Bay shopping streets. Take some time to walk through it or to watch people play football on three fields. There is also a jogging track through the park. Victoria Park can also be reached by MTR Exit B at Tin Hau station. During the summer months you can use the public open-air pool in Victoria Park. The pool costs $19 for adults ($9 kids) and payment can be made by coins or Octopus card.

[edit] Central Library

Central Library feels a world apart from the hustle of Causeway Bay where it is located. Its grand post-modern facade overlooks Victoria Park and is a statement of how seriously Hong Kong people take education. Many universities across the world struggle to provide library facilities this good and visitors often leave suitably impressed. Lending services are provided to non-residents upon production of either a residents Hong Kong ID card, or a cash deposit. It is well stocked with Western periodicals, as well as free Internet access. Major newspapers from all over the world are available. There are public computer terminals throughout all floors. The working tables with internet access for your laptop start on the fourth floor. Either you bring your own LAN cable or ask one of the librarians to lend you one. Do not forget to bring a power converter for the power plugs to charge your laptop (visitors from the United Kingdom can use UK plugs in Hong Kong). The library has a souvenir shop and a cafeteria which is operated by Delifrance.

[edit][add listing] Buy

The main department stores are in Causeway Bay (銅鑼灣). The biggest of these is Sogo. Nearby is the Times Square shopping mall.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Budget

  • Chiu Yuen (潮苑), Spring Garden Lane 37, Wan Chai (MTR Wan Chai exit B3), tel. 28922322. Small and usually packed eatery serving up a wide range of simple fare, but the crowd-pullers are the beef brisket noodles (a scarcely believable $13) and the homemade giant fishball soup ($16). Open 10 AM to 9 PM every day, other branches in Aberdeen and Causeway Bay.
  • Cooked Food Centre, Wong Nai Chung Bldg, 2 Yuk San Street, Happy Valley. Near the shopping hub in Causeway Bay.

[edit] Mid-Range

  • The American Peking Restaurant 20 Lockhart Rd, Hong Kong. tel. 25277770. The Peking Duck, carved in front of the table, is a speciality, best shared amongst several people. Also recommended are the sizzling prawns. Most dishes can be ordered in small, medium or large sizes.
  • The Quarterdeck Club, 1 Lung King Street, Fenwick Pier, Wanchai. tel. 28278882. This is one of the few harbourside restaurants. Currently slightly spoiled by the land reclamation nearby
  • The Flying Pan is located on the corner between Lockhart Road and Lugard. Look above Mes Amis and you will find the best place for breakfast and it's open all-day, everyday. This is the place where you can have a full-English washed down with a glass of lager at any time you prefer. It has an extensive menu catering for all preferences and a "frequent flyer" club if you want to keep going back. Staff are friendly and speak good English.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Wan Chai still has a few sleazy bars and clubs, but these can be safely ignored if you are looking for a range of other nightlife options.

  • The Pawn, 62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, Tel 3866 3444. A western style bar and cafe located in an attractive building that was once a pawn shop. It is situated away from the naughty parts of Wan Chai in one of the few historic buildings remaining in Hong Kong. It will appeal to visitors seeking a good range of imported beers and wines.
  • Devils Advocate. Popular with the rugby crowd.
  • Laguna. Domestic helpers tend to come here on Sunday afternoon (their day off).
  • The Bridge. Open 24 hours.
  • Old China Hand, Lockhart Road. British style pub with a largely British ex-pat crowd. A good happy hour and an extremely friendly owner from London.
  • Kangaroo Pub, 54 to 62 Lockhart Road. 2139 3111. Australian sports bar. Has a book exchange.
  • Carnegie's. 51 Lockhart Road. Rock music themed bar. Live bands playing occasionally, sports on multiple screens and a big screen, dancing the night away on the bar top.
  • The Canny Man, basement, The Wharney Hotel, 57-73 Lockhart Road. Scottish style Whiskey Bar with a free pool table.
  • Skitz Sports Bar, 5/F, 21-25 Luard Road. 28663277. Sports bar with pool tables, darts and big screens.

Happy Valley has a couple of bars worth trying:

  • The Chapel, 27 Yik Yam Street. 2834 6565. Serves curry.
  • The Jockey at the corner of Blue Pool Road and Sing Woo Road. A relaxed British style pub with outdoor seating.
  • Jaspa's, Blue Pool Road

Causeway Bay

  • Inn Side Out and East End Brewing Company, Sunning Plaza, 10 Hysan Avenue.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

  • Wang Fat Hostel a.k.a. Hong Kong Hostel, 3rd floor, block A, 47 Paterson St., Causeway Bay, Hong Kong (Exit E from Causeway Bay MTR station, turn left out the exit and left again at Paterson St., the hostel is on the left), (852) 2392 6868, [2]. This hostel would go out of business competing against any hostel in any European city, but compared to the prisons of Chunking and Mirador Mansions, it's halfway decent. Single rooms go for $HKD250-300 and dorms run about $HKD170. There is one dingy kitchen and a few refrigerators. The staff is brusque but helpful and honest, and there is free wireless and a single molasses-slow computer with free internet for hostel guests.  edit
  • Sun Kong Hostel, 47 Patterson Street. Block C, sixth floor. A minutes walk from Causeway Bay MTR Station (exit E). Rooms are small but clean with daily maid service. There is a communal refrigerator for roughly ever eight rooms. Toilets tend to block rather easy though. Double rooms run at about $HKD300 with singles being anything from $HKD130 with a shared toilet to between $HKD200 and $HKD400 with a private one.
  • Wharney Hotel, 57-73 Lockhart Road.
  • Cosmo Hotel, 375 Queen's Rd East

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!