From Wikitravel

Herat (Persian: هرات) is a big, relatively wealthy city in western Afghanistan.

[edit] Understand

The city is well developed because of trade with Iran and in a good shape compared to other Afghan cities. The people are very friendly and hospitable to foreigners and are also more religious than people in Kabul. No tourism exists in Herat but there is a small community of foreign workers from Europe or other western countries who are easy to contact by asking at the German or Indian consulate or hanging around in the Marco Polo Hotel.

[edit] Get in

The small Herat Airfield is situated 15km south of the city just east of the road towards Farah. Daily flights from Kabul are available from Kam Air [1], Ariana [2] for 3500 Afg, and Pamir Airways [3], for 4000 Afg. Both UNAMA and UNHAS operate flights between Kabul and Herat, occasionally via Bamiyan, available to staff of partner NGOs.

A bus service is avalible from Mashhad in Iran, buses are supposed to leave a 7 AM from the bus terminal but depature times are flexible, be there early. Arrival at the border is around noon and in Herat a bit after 3 PM. Border procedures are relatively straightforward.

Overland travel by car can be both time-consuming and dangerous, the road from Kandahar have been rebuilt but is extremely dangerous as it passes through Helmand and Farah, both which are active war zones. Both the road from Iran and from Turkmenistan are in good shape, the later one beeing tarred. However, expect a few craters there and there. There are occasional security incidents on the road from Turkmenistan as trouble spills over from unstable Badghis province. Get up-to-date advice before attempting this route. The A76 highway connects to Mazar-e Sharif via Maimana, upgrading of the road is no yet completed, largely due to the kidnapping of the construction team in April 2009. This route is not recommended. The central route to Kabul via Chagcheran and the Minaret of Jam is a very rough 3-6 day journey, sleeping in chaikanas along the way. Several travelers have recently done this route and reported no safety issues. However, from Bamiyan it is currently advisable to take the longer northern route to Kabul, as the southern route is of questionable safety.

[edit][add listing] See

• The Friday Mosque is more than 800 years old, full of life and incredibly beautiful. Be sure and seek out the craftsmen's shop behind the main entrance, where you can watch them cut tiles and lay out new pieces for the building.

• The Citadel is in on a hill to the west of the old city, with great views overlooking the city. It has recently reopened to visitors after being used by the military to store ammunition for the last few years, and is currently under restoration by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. It has a great and eerie deserted feel, and you're free to roam and climb around all you want - however, be a little careful, some of the paths are slightly precarious. The guards generally demand a $5 entrance fee, though bargaining can get you in for less - or even for free.

• Musalla Complex, about 2 km due north of the Citadel. Once a mosque, a medressa, and a mausoleum, all that remains is a single, precariously tethered minaret and the large domed tomb of Gowhar Shad, who commissioned the original complex. If you have time, wait for the keeper to come unlock the tomb (this might involve asking the guard to call) - he will ask for a few dollars, but it's worth his $3-5 fee to see the interior. At the very back of the park behind the mausoleum, part of a second minaret, part of the madrassa, can be found with a rusting tank parked nearby.

• Minarets of Sultan Baiqara, next to the Musalla Complex. The 4 minarets are all that remains of the medressa that he built. The new Iranian-built road cuts directly through them, two on each side. Most of the once beautiful blue tiling has vanished, though the floral outlines remain.

• Tomb of Jami. Jami was a very famous 15th century Sufi poet. His tomb is highly revered, and popular with local women. To get here, walk roughly a kilometre north from the Baiqara minarets along the main road. When you get to a junction with a large monument in the center, look out to the left and the large building that looks like a mosque is the one. Otherwise, there is a taxi stand near the junction if you're out of steam or heading to Gazar Gah (50 Afg) or Takht-e Safar.

• Gazar Gah is the large and famous sufi shrine of Khoja Abdullah Ansari, tiled in blue with Kufic calligraphy. His tomb is the large blue structure at the back. There is no entrance fee, but donations are appreciated.

• Takht-e Safar, a very old and famous park situated near the mountain close to Gazar Gah.
• Military Museum, (Next to the Five Star hotel north-east of town - best to take a taxi). An overwhelming collection of weapons and military equipment left behind after Afghanistan's numerous invasions. Upstairs is a display in memory of the Soviet invasion. The museum has not yet officially opened (Sept. 2009) but the guards will let you in for a look.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Take a shower in the huge subterranean Hammams.

[edit][add listing] Buy

• There are several antique shops on the north side of the mosque that sell jewelry, tea pots, old coins, traditional clothing, etc. Be sure and look for Sultan Hamidi (0774282153) in particular - he will happily show off his photograph in the Lonely Planet guidebook, demonstrate any instruments he has for sale, and send you down the block to visit the glassblowers' workshop where many of his wares are made. Bargain hard and in Afghanis!

• There is also a silk bazaar near Chahar Su and the Friday Mosque, where you can watch the weavers at their looms and bargain on scarves and cloth.

[edit] Money

• There are money changers near Chowk Gulha and along Bagh-e Azadi, north of the old city.
• Western Union [4], Bagh-e Azadi, near Da Afghanistan Bank.
• Afghanistan International Bank (AIB) [5], Bagh-e Azadi. This location has an ATM but is closed on Fridays.
• Kabul Bank [6] has a branch in Herat. It also has western union services.
• Bank Alfalah Limited* Herat Branch, Ground Floor, Chamber of Commerce & Industries, Herat Blood Bank Street, Herat, Afghanistan tel 0093-40-230704

[edit][add listing] Eat

• Chaikanas are plentiful, and serve cheap local Afghani food.

• Shahiste Restaurant, jad-e Badmurghan, is in the Marco Polo Hotel and is the one of the best restaurants in the city. The menu changes daily, and usually features several Iranian/Afghani options. Meals from around 200Afs.

• Arghawan Restaurant, next to the Nazary Hotel, serves kebabs and pizza, with a garden for hookah. Women may be assigned to a small "family room" at the back. Meals from around 200Afs.

• Fardeen Supermarket, jad-e Ghomandani, about two blocks north of Bagh-e Azadi. A well-stocked supermarket with plenty of western and Iranian imports.
• Thousand and One Nights, Near new US consulate (hill above University). Rice, kebabs, shisha. Waiters are dwarves in bright blue shirts, black trousers, and striped waistcoats. While this may seem patronizing, the restaraunt offers them decent jobs where they would otherwise be unemployed.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

• Jaam Hotel, in the old city west of Darb Khosh, +93 (0) 40 223 477. Has 30 very basic double rooms, all sharing 2 squat toilets and 2 showers. Management speaks some English and is very friendly, and there is a restaurant on site. 300 Afg / $6.

[edit] Mid-range

Guesthouses are recommended for longer stays

• Marco Polo Hotel, Jad-e Badmurghan, ☎ +93(0)40-221946, +93(0)799206192 (marcopolo_hotel@hotmail.com). The most popular "western standards" hotel in the city. Internet access, breakfast, Llaundry and transportation is included. $30-40 per night.  edit

• Park Hotel, (Just south of Girdha Park on the road from the airport), ☎ +93(0)40-223010. Oldest hotel in Herat built in the 1930s, recently reopened after being occupied by the military. Currently still very empty and has a faded, grand old haunted house feel. Large, high-ceiling rooms have 3 single beds and large tiled bathrooms with western toilets. Surrounded by trees on secure grounds. From 1000 Afg per night, for three persons 2000 Afg.  edit

• Baharistan Hery Hotel, (In the Arefi Business center), ☎ +93(0)70407859, +93(0)798280942 (baharistan_hery@yahoo.com). A new western-style hotel located on the same street as the Marco Polo Hotel. Internet and heating system avalible. Plenty of rooms and a terrace with views of the whole city. Staff is very helpful. Double from $30 with breakfast.  edit

• Nazary Four Star Hotel, Walatay St. [7] +93(0)799 351899, +93(0)795 606400. A new Dubai-esque tower block on the main east-west street. Rack rates are around $60 for an en suite double but discounts are available. Rooms have a/c, heating, satellite TV and LAN internet.

[edit] Stay safe

Herat is one of the safer cities in Afghanistan. However, there are sometimes small explosions attributed to political parties which are trying to make a point or create the impression that the city is not safe. Shootings are also common during personal disputes. Gun battles between the Afghan National Army and Afghan National Police are not unusual.

[edit] Respect

Be quiet, respectful and dress appropriately when visiting mosques and shrines. These are holy places of worship and should not be treated as tourist attractions. Be discreet with your camera.

[edit] Contact

[edit] Get out

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