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From Wikitravel

Herat (Persian: هرات) is a big, relatively wealthy city in western Afghanistan.

[edit] Understand

The city is well developed because of trade with Iran and in a good shape compared to other Afghan cities. The people are very friendly and hospitable to foreigners and are also more religious than people in Kabul. No tourism exists in Herat but there is a small community of foreign workers from Europe or other western countries who are easy to contact by asking at the German or Indian consulate or hanging around in the Marco Polo Hotel.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

The small airport is 15km south of the city.

Daily flights are operated from Kabul by Kam Air and Ariana for 3500 Afg / $70, and the UN operates some flights as well. Pamir Airways is a now, flying 3 times daily between Kabul and Herat.

[edit] By car

• The road from Kandahar has been rebuilt but is very dangerous through Helmand and Farah.
• The road from Iran is reported to be good.
• The road from Turkmenistan is tarred and in good condition (save for a few bomb craters). There are occasional security incidents as trouble spills over from unstable Badghis province. Get up-to-date advice before attempting this route.
• The road from Mazar-e Sharif via Maimana is being upgraded but a section through Badghis province has yet to be completed, largely due to the kidnapping of the construction team in April 2009. This route is not recommended.
• The central route to Kabul via Chagcheran and the Minaret of Jam is a very rough 3-6 day journey, sleeping in chaikanas along the way. Several travelers have recently done this route and reported no safety issues. However, from Bamiyan it is currently advisable to take the longer northern route to Kabul, as the southern route is of questionable safety.

[edit][add listing] See

• The Friday Mosque is more than 800 years old, full of life and incredibly beautiful. Its minarets dominate the old town.

• The Citadel is in on a hill to the west of the old city, with great views overlooking the city. It has recently reopened to visitors after being used by the military to store ammunition for the last few years. It has a great and eerie deserted feel, and you're free to roam and climb around all you want - however, be a little careful, some of the paths are slightly precarious. On the way out the guards may try and stab you with a $5 entrance fee, which they have tickets to back up... this is an outrageous fee, and you can get by with $1 or $2 if you're willing to argue, which you should.

• Musalla Complex, about 2 km due north of the Citadel. Once a collection of minarets, a mosque and a medressa, all that remains is 1 minaret with a hole blown out of one side, leaning at a precarious angle and supported by cables. Near this is the large domed tomb of Gowhar Shad, who commissioned the original complex.

• Minarets of Sultan Baiqara, next to the Musalla Complex. The 4 minarets are all that remains of the medressa that he built. The new Iranian-built road cuts directly through them, two on each side. Most of the once beautiful blue tiling has vanished.

• Tomb of Jami. Jami was a very famous 15th century sufi poet. His tomb is highly revered, and popular with local women. To get here, walk roughly a kilometre north from the Baiqara minarets along the main road. When you get to a junction with a large monument in the center, look out to the left and the large building that looks like a mosque is the one. There is a taxi stand near the junction if your out of steam or heading to Gazar Gah (50 Afg) or Takht-e Safar.

• Gazar Gah is the large and famous sufi shrine of Khoja Abdullah Ansari. His tomb is the large blue structure at the back. There is no entrance fee, but donations are appreciated.

• Takht-e Safar, a very old and famous park situated near the mountain close to Gazar Gah.
• Military Museum, (Next to the Five Star hotel north-east of town - best to take a taxi). An overwhelming collection of weapons and military equipment left behind after Afghanistan's numerous invasions. Upstairs is a display in memory of the Soviet invasion. The museum has not yet officially opened (Sept. 2009) but the guards will let you in for a look.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Take a shower in the huge subterranean Hammans.

[edit][add listing] Buy

• There are several antique shops on the north side of the mosque that sell jewelry, tea pots, old coins, traditional clothing, etc. Bargain hard and in Afghanis!

[edit] Money

• There are money changers near Chowk Gulha and along Bagh-e Azadi, north of the old city.
• Western Union [1], Bagh-e Azadi, near Da Afghanistan Bank.
• Afghanistan International Bank (AIB) [2], Bagh-e Azadi. This location has an ATM but is closed on Fridays.
• Kabul Bank [3] has a branch in Herat. It also has western union services.
• Bank Alfalah Limited* Herat Branch, Ground Floor, Chamber of Commerce & Industries, Herat Blood Bank Street, Herat, Afghanistan tel 0093-40-230704

[edit][add listing] Eat

• Chaikanas are plentiful, and serve cheap local Afghani food.

• Shahiste Restaurant, jad-e Badmurghan, is in the Marco Polo Hotel and is the best restaurant in the city. Menu changes daily, and usually features several Iranian/Afghani options. Meals from around 70Af.

• Fardeen Supermarket, jad-e Ghomandani, about two blocks north of Bagh-e Azadi. A well-stocked supermarket with plenty of western and Iranian imports.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

• Jaam Hotel, in the old city west of Darb Khosh, +93 (0) 40 223 477. Has 30 very basic double rooms, all sharing 2 squat toilets and 2 showers. Management speaks some English and is very friendly, and there is a restaurant on site. 300 Afg / $6.

[edit] Mid-range

Guesthouses are recommended for longer stays

• Marco Polo Hotel, jad-e Badmurghan, +93 (0) 40 221 944. is the most popular "western standards" hotel in the city. Rooms cost $30-$40 per night and include internet access.

• Park Hotel, just south of Girdha Park on the road from the airport, +93 (0) 40 223 010. This old hotel has recently reopened as a hotel after being occupied by the military. It's currently still very empty, and has a faded, grand old haunted house feel. Large, high-ceiling rooms have 3 single beds and large tiled bathrooms with western toilets. Surrounded by trees on secure grounds. 1000 Afg for 1 person, 2000 Afg for 3 people.

• Baharistan Hery Hotel, Baad Murghan, (in the Arefi Business center), +93-040-70407859, 798280942, baharistan_hery@yahoo.com. A new western-style hotel located on the same street as the Marco Polo Hotel. Double rooms cost $30 with breakfast, internet and heating system. Hotel has plenty of room and a terrace with views of the whole city. Staff is very helpful.

• Nazary Hotel, Walatay St. [4] +93(0)799 345100, 795 606400. A new Dubai-esque tower block on the main east-west street. Rack rates are around $60 for an en suite double but discounts are available. Rooms have a/c, heating, satellite TV and LAN internet.

• Five Star Hotel, (North east of downtown - every taxi driver knows where it is). A favourite with NGO workers and expats the Five Star hotel is a comfortable western style place. A good option if you have your own transport, otherwise you are at the mercy of overcharging taxi drivers. $50 per night.  edit

[edit] Stay safe

Herat is one of the safer cities in Afghanistan. However, there are sometimes small explosions attributed to political parties which are trying to make a point or create the impression that the city is not safe. Shootings are also common during personal disputes. Gun battles between the Afghan National Army and Afghan National Police are not unusual.

[edit] Respect

Be quiet, respectful and dress appropriately when visiting mosques and shrines. These are holy places of worship and should not be treated as tourist attractions. Be discreet with your camera.

[edit] Get out

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!