Upper Manhattan is a large, relatively under-visited area of Manhattan that ranges from 125th St to Inwood Hill Park on the west and from about 96th St northward (the island of Manhattan tapers off unevenly on the east) on the east. The area includes the well-known neighborhood of Harlem, recognized globally as a center of African-American culture and business. Other areas of interest include the neighborhoods of Washington Heights, a center of Dominican culture in New York and the home of The Cloisters museum and the huge Columbia-Presbyterian Medical Center; and Inwood, the home of the last remains of the marshes and forests that once covered the island.
Upper Manhattan is a large and fascinating place where the identity and characteristics of the neighborhoods change almost every few blocks. Harlem itself consists of several neighborhoods each with its own distinct culture and history. Spanish Harlem, also known as El Barrio, is the famous heart of Puerto Rican culture in the United States. Once known as Italian Harlem, today this area on the East River, bounded by 96th and 125th Sts, is a polyglot mixture of renovated and gentrified streets sharing space with West African immigrants in single room occupancy hotels and the many Latinos who still live in the area.
Further north and west, centered around 125th St, is the Harlem of the Harlem Renaissance, the center of African-American culture in the early twentieth century. While old standbys like Sylvia's soul food restaurant and the Apollo Theater are still going strong, Harlem and particularly 125th St are amidst a renaissance as new homeowners renovate historic brownstones and new development surges. A new Marriott hotel is planned for 125th and Park, and former U.S. President Bill Clinton's offices are in the neighborhood as well. There are famous churches in the area, such as the Abyssinian Baptist Church, and some of these have famous gospel choirs.
The Western side of Harlem is now roughly divided into Manhattanville, an area being developed as a new campus by Columbia University; Hamilton Heights, north of about 133rd St and south of 155th St which contains City College, the alma mater of quite a few Nobel Prize winners and other notables; and Sugar Hill, east of Amsterdam Ave and north of 141st St, an area that was always associated with African-American culture but is best known because of the Ella Fitzgerald rendition of Take the `A' Train. The entire west side of Harlem is a surprising mix of run down streets with car repair garages, stately single family town houses, and boarded-up buildings. Even further west, along Riverside Drive running all the way to 165th St, are delightfully preserved apartment buildings from the turn of the twentieth century.
North of Harlem are Washington Heights and Inwood, unlikely to be on most tourists' radar screen (except for The Cloisters) but also fast improving from their days as by-words for urban blight. Washington Heights is the acknowledged center of Dominican culture in New York. Today, it is an ethnic mix with recent immigrants from Bangladesh and young artists and professionals in search of low rents rubbing shoulders with long term Dominican residents in the South and the Jewish residents of the northern Cabrini Blvd area. Columbia University's Medical School and Hospital, New York Presbyterian Medical Center, dominates the neighborhood. At the northern end of Washington Heights, The Cloisters, a medieval museum and gift of the Rockefeller family, lives inside the beautiful Fort Tryon Park. Further north lies the neighborhood of Inwood, a very dense, mostly residential area, and Inwood Hill Park, a marshy and forested park that is the best approximation of what Manhattan island was five hundred years ago.
The original village of Harlem was established in 1658 by Dutch Governor Peter Stuyvesant and named Nieuw Haarlem after the Dutch city of Haarlem. Throughout the Dutch, British, and colonial periods, rich farms were located in the region's flat eastern portion, while some of New York's most illustrious early families, such as the Delanceys, Bleeckers, Rikers, Beekmans, and Hamiltons maintained large estates in the high, western portion of the area.
In the early 1900s, particularly in the 1920s, African-American literature, art, music, dance, and social commentary began to flourish in Harlem. This African-American cultural movement became known as "The New Negro Movement" and later as the Harlem Renaissance. More than a literary movement, the Harlem Renaissance exalted the unique culture of African-Americans and redefined African-American expression. African-Americans were encouraged to celebrate their heritage.
Ironically, during the 1920s and 30s, many African-Americans were excluded from witnessing performances of much of the great music that members of their community were creating. Many jazz venues, like Small's and the Cotton Club (where Duke Ellington played) were open to white customers only. The Savoy, which was integrated, was closed down by municipal authorities in the 30s amid concern over interracial relationships engendered by the easy mixing there. Fortunately, segregation in New York clubs is long past, and visitors to Harlem can still listen to jazz over a meal or a few drinks today.
Many subway lines pass through the neighborhood. The A, C, and 1 go up the West Side to Manhattanville, Washington Heights, Hamilton Heights, Inwood and Fort Tryon Park. The 2 and 3 go up Lenox Ave more or less in the center, and the 4, 5, 6 on the East Side. The B and D go up 8th Ave and St. Nicholas Ave along with the A and C as far as 155 St, then go under the Harlem River to Yankee Stadium and other stops in the Bronx. The A and D and the 4 and 5 are fast express trains during the day, as the A and D whiz passengers from 59 St directly to 125 St, while the 4 and 5 go from 86 St to 125 St in one stop.
There is plenty of MTA bus service to the area. The M4 makes its slow way up to the Cloisters from the Village via the East Side (Madison on the way up and Fifth Ave on the way down), across 110th St, and via Broadway and Fort Washington Ave further north - a nice way to see the changing face of Manhattan but a very slow way! There is a large commuter bus terminal under the ramps to the George Washington Bridge (175th St between Broadway and Fort Washington Ave) with service to points to suburban New Jersey and New York.
The Cloisters, 99 Margaret Corbin Dr, Fort Tryon Park (M4 bus to last stop), ☎ +1-212-923-3700, . Open 7 Days a Week Mar–Oct 10AM–5:15PM, Nov–Feb 10AM–4:45PM, closed 4th Th in Nov, 25 Dec, 1 Jan. Located on four acres overlooking the Hudson River in Fort Tryon Park, the building incorporates elements from five medieval French cloisters--quadrangles enclosed by a roofed or vaulted passageway, or arcade--and from other monastic sites in southern France. There are various artworks on display in the museum, with the Unicorn Tapestries being the most famous.$25, seniors (65 and older) $17, students $12*, members free, children under 12 (accompanied by an adult) free. Admission is by donation, just as in its parent museum, the Metropolitan Museum. You may pay the suggested price, more, or less, as you wish. edit
Fort Tryon Park, (A train or M4 bus to 190th St). One of New York's most beautiful, is an expanse of rolling hills high above the Hudson. It contains some of the highest natural elevations on the island and is a great place to picnic or stroll in good weather and look at the great views of the New Jersey Palisades across the river.edit
Museum of the City of New York, 1220 5th Ave (between 103rd and 104th Sts; Subway 6 to 103rd St or the 2 or 3 to 110th St; Bus: M1, M2, M3, M4 or M106), ☎ +1-212-534-1672, . 10AM-6PM daily. Rather large, interesting museum with all kinds of documentation of events in the history of this city and delightful artifacts of life in earlier periods, such as the extensive collection of 19th century dollhouses complete with miniature furniture.Suggested admission $10, $6 students/seniors, free for 12 and under. edit
El Museo del Barrio, 1230 5th Ave (at 104th St), ☎ +1-212-831-7272, . Tu-Su 11AM-6PM. The only U.S. museum devoted to Puerto Rican culture.Suggested admission $9, $5 students/seniors, free for under 12 (free for seniors on W, free for everyone on the third Sa of each month). edit
Hamilton Grange National Monument, 287 Convent Ave (A, B, C, D to 145th St; Bus M100/101 or M3). Built in 1802 (and physically shifted from its original location) this was the home of Alexander Hamilton, one of the founding fathers and the first Secretary of Treasury. Hamilton Grange is temporarily closed for renovation.edit
Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture, 135th St and Malcolm X Blvd (Subway 2 or 3 to 135th St; Bus: M7, M102, or Bx33), . A main research branch of the New York Public Library, this is a repository of priceless documents and also has various exhibitions on themes related to black history and culture.edit
James Bailey House, 10 St. Nicholas Pl (A, B, C, D to 145th St and then walk 5 blocks N; Bus M3 to 151st St). Street built by architect Samuel Burrage Reed. A major mansion owned by circus entrepreneur Anthony Bailey - joined with showman Phineas T. Barnum in 1881 to form the Barnum & Bailey circus. Now Known to the children of Harlem as the Beauty and the Beast house.edit
Strivers Row, (B or C to 135th St, 2 or 3 to 135th St, M2 or M10 bus to 138th St), . Million dollar homes in an unlikely neighborhood.edit
Morris-Jumel Mansion, 65 Jumel Ter (Subway C to 163rd St; Bus: M2, M3, M100, or M101), ☎ +1-212-923-8008, . W-Su 10AM-4PM. Built in 1765, this is the oldest house on Manhattan Island. It served as George Washington's headquarters in 1776. Currently a museum set on a 1.5-acre park, it features a decorative-arts collection representing the colonial and Revolutionary War periods. Washington's office is among the 12 restored rooms.$5, seniors $4, students $4, under 12 free, members free. edit
Audubon Ballroom, NE cnr of Broadway and 165th St (C to 163rd/Amsterdam; Bus M4/M5, M3, M100). Where Malcolm X was assassinated. Only a part of the facade of the original building remains (Columbia University demolished the building in 1992).edit
Studio Museum Harlem, 144 W 125th St (2 or 3 to 125th St, Bus M7/M102, M60, M100/101, Bx15), ☎ +1-212-864-4500, . W-F,Su noon-6PM, Sa 10AM-6PM. $7, $3 students/seniors, under 12 free. edit
Riverside Park, west of Riverside Dr. A riverfront park providing pleasant views of New Jersey and sometimes breezes off the river. Summer brings al fresco movies and music to the park.edit
Hispanic Society of America, 613 W 155th St (1 train to 157th St, Bus M4/M5, Bx6), ☎ +1-212-926-2234, . Tu-Sa 10AM-4:30PM, Su 1PM-4PM. A museum and library devoted to Spanish, Portuguese, and Latin American art and culture.Free. edit
Dyckman Farmhouse, 4881 Broadway (Subway A to 207th St, Bus Bx7, Bx12, M100), ☎ +1-212-304-9422, . W-Sa 11AM-4PM, Su noon-4PM. The former residence of William Dyckman, who owned several hundred acres of farmland covering much of what is now Inwood and Washington heights. Nestled incongruously at the otherwise unremarkable corner of 204th and Broadway, the farmhouse has been converted into a small museum of life in early Manhattan and hosts various programs for the neighborhood. The "Hessian Huts" in the back yard are a leftover from the British occupation of Manhattan during the American Revolutionary War.$1, children free. edit
Marcus Garvey (Mount Morris) Park, (2 or 3 trains to 125th St, Metro-North to 125th St; Bus M1, M60, M100, M101, Bx15). One of the oldest parks in Manhattan. The elegant brownstones on the west and south sides of the park hint at the former grandeur of the neighborhood (many were built in the 1880s). The Acropolis, a lookout seventy feet above street level gives views of the Empire State Bldg, the George Washington Bridge, and Yankee Stadium. The Firetower, a landmark 1857 building, is the only surviving example of nineteenth century fire watchtowers.edit
Apollo Theater, 253 W 125th St (btwn Adam Clayton Powell Blvd and Frederick Douglass Blvd; Subway A, B, C, D, 2 or 3 train to 125th St), ☎ +1-212-531-5300, . The legendary Apollo Theater, "where stars are born and legends made", is a source of pride for Harlem, and a symbol of American artistic achievement. The Apollo is best known for its world-famous Amateur Night at the Apollo, which launched the careers of legendary artists like Ella Fitzgerald, James Brown, Michael Jackson, D'Angelo and Lauryn Hill. The Apollo remains the nation's most popular arena for emerging and established black and Latino performers.edit
Amateur Night at the Apollo, . W 7:30PM. Amateur Night at the Apollo celebrated its 75th Anniversary in 2009 as the quintessential talent competition, serving as the model for Star Search and American Idol. Competitions are held nearly every W evening throughout the year, culminating with the "Super Top Dog" competition. The show marries world-class talent with a distinctive, vaudeville-like atmosphere, and has depended on audience participation since the very beginning. The popularity contest has proven an effective measure of star potential, becoming a launch pad for some of the nation's greatest entertainers.$19, $25, $29. edit
There are several interesting and pleasant routes for walking through Harlem, including:
125th St, the most important commercial street in the neighborhood. There is a lot of street life, and a varied lineup of businesses serving the community.
St. Nicholas Ave in the 140s and 150s is lined with beautiful apartment houses with ornate facades and front doors. South of 142nd St, you pass by the tree-lined expanse of St. Nicholas Park.
Convent Ave in the 140s and 150s is also lined with pretty brownstones. It is quieter and less populated than St. Nicholas Ave, which is downhill from Convent and on the other side of St. Nicholas Park.
Broadway north of 132nd St or so is the center of a lively Dominican neighborhood.
East 116th St is the main commercial street of East (aka Spanish) Harlem. This is actually an ethnically mixed area and no less interesting because of that.
La Marqueta, Park Avenue & 116th St (Subway 6 train to 116th St and then walk 1 block W. Bus M102 or M116 to Park Avenue. M1 to 116th St and walk 1 block W). A marketplace located under the Metro-North tracks in East Harlem. It's been around since the 1950s.edit
Dia Restaurant, 1920 7th Ave, ☎ +1-212-665-2653. American cuisine.edit
El Malecon, 175th St and Broadway. A Dominican restaurant famous for its pollo a la brasa (rotisserie chicken), has its flagship in this neighborhood. Go there and enjoy the food, the fresh-squeezed juice, and the Latin music on the jukebox.edit
El Presidente, 3938 Broadway (at 165th St), ☎ +1-212-927-7011. Offers another take on Dominican food, with good pork-stuffed plantains, guinea hen stew (an occasional special) and, oddly, a terrific Cuban sandwich.edit
Harlem Revival, 2367 Frederick Douglass Blvd, . Upscale modern cuisine. A bright spot of food in a revitalizing neighborhood.edit
Mike's Bagels, 4003 Broadway (A, C, 1 train to 168th St, Bus M3, M4, M5, M100, Bx7), ☎ +1-212-928-2300. Fresh bagels made in-house daily.edit
Patsy's Pizzeria, 2287 1st Ave (btwn 117th and 118th Sts), ☎ +1-212-534-9783. This is great old-school New York coal-oven pizza. Don't go overboard on the toppings, which are not the reason why you should go there. Get a plain pizza, and enjoy the wonder of a thin, nicely charred crust with delicious sauce and cheese that aren't heaped on but applied judiciously in a style that derives clearly from its origins in Naples. A couple should be able to down a pie or two with some salad without trouble for a meal, because the crust is so thin, but note that you can also get slices for takeout.edit
Sister's Cuisine, 30 E 124th St, ☎ +1-212-410-3000. Anglo-Caribbean.edit
Red Rooster, 310 Lenox Ave (125th and 126th Sts) (Subway 2 or 3 to 125 St, Bus M102 or M7 on Lenox or any of numerous buses on 125 St), ☎ +1-212-792-9001, . Brunch Sa Su 10AM-4PM, dinner M-W 5:30PM-10:30PM Th-Sa 5:30PM-11:30Pm, Su 5PM-10PM, lunch M-F 11:30AM-3PM. The new restaurant of Marcus Samuelsson, originally from Ethiopia with adoptive Swedish parents. The cuisine is a mix of different influences, with nods to traditional soul food, classic Swedish fare, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia. Tables can be hard to come by without a reservation, and you might not get a friendly hostess, but the restaurant by itself is reason enough to take the trip uptown.Dinner appetizers $9-15, mains $14-33; snacks $4-6; sides $7-9; desserts $4-10; Cocktails: $11-15. edit
Maison Harlem, 341 Saint Nicholas Ave (A, B, C, D to 125th St, Bus M3, M60, M100, M101, Bx15), . edit
Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, 700 W 125th St (1 train to 125th St, Bus Bx15, M4), . edit
Seasoned Vegan, 55 St. Nicholas Ave. (cor. 113th St.) bet Malsolm X and Adam Clayton Powell Blvds. (IRT train to 110th St.), ☎ 212-222-0029, . 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10pm, Tues.-Sat.; Sun., 1pm - 9pm, closed Mon.. Harlem's first full-service vegan restaurant located on Restaurant Row. Owner/executive chef mother/son team,Brenda and Aaron Beener, founded this intimate "green" spot to bring healthier dining options to this fast-growing gentrified neighborhood and serve up an exclusively plant-based eclectic menu of "the foods you love, veganized",that is animal,trans fat, cholesterol and gluten-free, prepared "with love and a soulful twist" at lunch and dinner. Like BBQ "riblets" made from lotus roots, "crawfish" crafted of yams, a rich array of daily-made cupcakes like the signature red velevet and alcohol-free drinks like malteds and shakes sans dairy, fancy smoothies and freshly-made juices, as well as a raw foods menu. $9 - $20. edit
Violent crimes have declined dramatically in Harlem and Washington Heights, and the relative safety in upper Manhattan varies greatly depending on where and when one travels. Most of the tourist destinations are very safe. However, crime still exists, as it does throughout New York City. As in all neighborhoods, exercise caution when walking in the neighborhood at night. Subway stations are generally safe and are patrolled by uniformed and undercover police. Consider staying on main thoroughfares, especially after dark. Population density is generally high in Washington Heights, and most residents are Spanish speaking and friendly.
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