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Gili Islands

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Asia : Southeast Asia : Indonesia : Nusa Tenggara : Lombok : Gili Islands

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[+] Understand
- Climate
[+] Get in
- By plane
- [+] By boat
  - From Bali
  - From Lombok
Get around
[+] See & Do
- Scuba diving
- Snorkeling
- Surfing
- Relax
Buy
[+] Eat
Drink
[+] Sleep
- [+] Budget
  - Gili Air
- Gili Meno
- [+] Mid-range
  - Gili Air
  - Gili Trawangan
- Splurge
Respect
Stay safe
Stay healthy
Cope
Contact
Get out

Perahu fishing boats lounging on Trawangan's beach, with Meno in the background

The Gili Islands are located just off the northwest tip of Lombok, Indonesia.

[edit] Understand

The three Gili Islands from the air

Lombok's most popular tourist destination, the Gili Islands started off as a backpacker mecca. This is still true but times are changing and there are now a rash of glamour options on the islands, especially Gili Trawangan. The islands are very relaxed and laid-back, with countless little beachside cafes still playing reggae and serving up banana pancakes, but also at the other end of the scale, elaborate seafood buffets, fresh salads and very good western and Asian food. Best of all, there are no cars or motorbikes to disturb the peace. The white sand beaches are without a doubt better than anywhere on Bali or Lombok. There are increasing numbers of westerners living on the Gilis and operating businesses from dive companies to resorts and there is a strong environmental focus here as the reefs have ben damaged in the past. While once people came to dive, snorkel and party, a more upmarket tourist is showing up now and while it is still all about the beach, there are many more options to wine and dine or hang out and meet new friends. From west to east, the islands are:

Gili Trawangan (sometimes Trewangan) or just Gili T is the most developed with plenty of backpacker options, one swanky resort and increasing numbers of villas. There are no dogs on the island but according to one local, there are more cats here than people. The local population is around 800.
Gili Meno, the smallest and quietest, low-key with some simple places to stay.
Gili Air, closest to the mainland and with the largest local population.

Strictly speaking, the name "Gili Islands" is rather redundant as gili simply means "small island" in Sasak, but the name has stuck and is universally used and understood in Lombok.

There are also some other islands off Lombok called Gili Something, eg. Gili Nanggu and Gili Gede, but these are located to the southwest near Lembar, quite a distance from the "main" Gilis.

[edit] Climate

The Gilis are noticeably drier and hotter than Lombok, but evenings are still cool and refreshing and, at night, air-con is more of a luxury than a necessity. The rainy season is roughly from November to April, but it rains much less than on Bali. The peak tourist seasons are July-August and December-January.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

There are no airports in the Gilis. The nearest airport is at Mataram on mainland Lombok, but flying to Bali and taking the ferry to the Gilis (see below) is also a viable option. Alternatively, fly to Bali and connect onward with a domestic flight to Mataram, which is a quick and cheap 20-minute hop.

[edit] By boat

[edit] From Bali

There are now a number of direct boat services from Bali to the Gilis, all of which continue onto the main island of Lombok. The fastest services depart from Benoa in south Bali, as this avoids a long road trip up to Padang Bai. Benoa Harbour is around 20 minutes from the main tourist areas in the south (eg Kuta, Legian, Nusa Dua, Sanur), whereas Padang Bai can take up to two hours by road. It's quicker to depart from Padang Bai if you are starting from central or east Bali, such as Ubud, Candi Dasa, or the east coast dive areas of Ahmed / Tulemben.

Operator	Bali (dep.)	Lombok (dep.)	Travel time	Schedule	Price
BlueWater Express [1] +62 813 38418988	Benoa (8 AM)	Teluk Kode (11 AM) Trawangan (11:30 AM)	2 hours	Daily	Rp 690,000
Gili Cat [2] +62 361 271680	Padang Bai (9 AM)	Trawangan (noon) Teluk Kode (12:30)	80 min	Daily	Rp 660,000
Island Getaway [3] +62 361 753241	Serangan (8 AM)	Trawangan (11.00AM) Teluk Kode (11:30)	2 hours	Daily	Rp 660,000
Perama Express [4] +62 361 751551	Padang Bai (1 PM)	Trawangan (7 AM) Senggigi (9 AM)	6 hours	Daily	Rp 350,000

All services are subject to weather conditions and the trip across the Lombok Strait can get quite bumpy especially in July and August. BlueWater and Gili Cat offer free transfers to/from south Bali. Prices usually include land transport from/to your destination in Bali. Double-check with operators for schedules and current status, and for seasonal discounts. You may also get a better price by booking from a travel agent in Bali rather than booking directly with the boat company as the agents get discounts.

[edit] From Lombok

There are essentially two ways to get from Lombok to the Gilis: direct private boats from Senggigi (1-2 hrs), or a shuttle bus to Bangsal (1 hr) and a public boat from there (15/30/45 min to Air/Meno/Trawangan).

The easiest way to get to the Gilis from Lombok's airport or Senggigi is to walk to the nearest travel agent, taxi desk or tout and book a package. The daily Perama [5] daily service will take you directly from Senggigi (dep. 9 AM) to any of the Gilis in under two hours for a flat Rp 100,000, plus optional Rp 10,000 for pickup at your lodgings; other operators can swing similar deals for Rp 75,000, but these often involve going through Bangsal.

The cheapest way is to take a bemo/taxi to Pemenang, walk or cidomo to Bangsal, and then take the public ferry from there. However, this may involve long waits and dealing with the boat mafia, so most people figure it's not worth the hassle; see Bangsal for details.

If you want to travel at your own pace, you can charter a boat directly from Senggigi to take you across. Ask any travel agent or simply head to the beach behind the Santosa Hotel, where you're guaranteed to be solicited by boat operators. Prices vary: a one-way dropoff can be negotiated down to Rp 250,000 in the low season, while a return day trip with island hopping might cost Rp 500,000.

For the way back, there is a public boat ticket office on each of the Gilis. The one on Trawangan is right on the beach near where you are dropped off. Public boats to Bangsal cost only Rp 10,000, but you may need to wait until 20 others show up, so it's best to show up early in the morning (7-8 AM) if you want to get moving quickly. The last boat leaves around 3 PM.

Note that the sea is calmest in the morning and all transport stops running in the mid afternoon, well before dark. During periods of southerly winds and in July and August especially, the swell can be a bit hairy and you are very likely to get wet on the crossing. It is advisable to place laptops, cameras and handphones in waterproof bags for the crossing.

[edit] Get around

Cidomo

In a rare display of foresight, all forms of motorized transport are banned from the islands: your only choice is horse-drawn carts, known as cidomo, which are used even to shuttle around diving gear. The standard price for foreigners is Rp 10,000-20,000 per head for any trip, although it varies per island and per season. However, as the islands are only a few km in diameter, it's entirely possible to just walk instead.

Bikes are available for rent and the main roads are good enough for riding at least in Gili Trawangan. 24 hours costs about Rp 60,000, and 2 hours about Rp 25,000. A ride around the island is less than an hour, you need to walk your bike at few points due to the sand. Bike is also great for exploring the inland where you can see a lot of cows, goats and chicken as well as locals' huts.

Traveling between the islands requires either catching the infrequent shuttle boats or chartering one to take you across. You can get tickets from the ticket offices on each island from where the boats depart. Booking through a travel agent just costs more, and you still need to change the reservation to an actual ticket at the very same counter. The distances between the islands may seem swimmable, but do not attempt it — the currents can be fierce and several backpackers have died trying.

[edit] See & Do

There are no sights as such on the islands themselves, but the snorkeling and diving all around is a major draw.

The locals living on the island are pretty interesting. If you walk behind the main road you will see how the locals live which is much different then the beautiful bungalows the tourists stay in. Try to find the farmers market everyday from 12-2.

[edit] Scuba diving

The Gili islands have good diving and is especially well known as a teaching centre. An impressive array of sea creatures and plant life is to be seen, such as green and hawksbill turtles, manta rays (rarely), bumphead parrotfish, black-tip and white tip reef sharks and more. Visibility is commonly in the 15-20m range. However, due to the exposed position of the Gilis, currents can be quite strong and drift diving is the norm.

Gili Trawangan has the most dive operators, but PADI and SSI licensed dive operators exist on all islands, equipment is kept in top shape, with excellent facilities and western dive insructors. Divemasters are more commonly well-qualified locals. Dive and course prices are fixed by agreement between the dive operators on each island - there is nothing financial to be gained by shopping around between the operators. Nitrox and other technical diving options are also offered by operators on Gili Trawangan especially.

For those interested in learning to dive or advancing existing qualifications, several of the operators now offer both PADI and SSI options. SSI is generally a little cheaper than PADI; talk to your chosen operator to find out which suits you best. Prices: Dives $US40, Discover Scuba US$60, Open Water US$350, Advanced Open Water US$275.

All dive shops on the Gili Islands are members of the Gili Eco Trust, a non-profit organisation set up to protect coral reefs surrounding the islands and provide environmental education. There is a one time only reef tax of Rp 40,000 payable by all divers and dive students. This is collected by the dive operator and it is this reef tax that funds the work of the trust.

The dive shops accept credit cards, except when the telephone lines are down (in this case, pay using internet banking).

Big Bubble Diving, ☎ +62 370 625020 (info@bigbubblediving.com), [6]. This newish operation on Gili Trawangan has quickly built a stellar reputation for professionalism and being extremely friendly. British owned and run with native English and French speakers as instructors. Large purpose built dive pool and good quality bungalows behind the diveshop. A full range of PADI and SSI courses plus daily fun dives offered. edit

Blue Marlin Dive, Gili islands, ☎ +62 370 632424, [7]. Blue Marlin Dive has operations on all three islands. PADI licensed, awesome instructors, well maintained gear. The dive shop has its own large pool and a fully equipped dive shop. Behind the centre, there are eight newly renovated bungalows. Also a full technical dive centre. edit

Gili Divers, Gili Trawangan (between Scallywags and Vila Ombak), (gilidivers@hotmail.com), [8]. Operates on Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno. PADI courses up to instructor level available. Multi lingual instructors and new dive equipment. Also offering snorkel and dive liveaboard trips to Komodo. US$35 for fun dive, $60 for a whole day on the Bulan Purnama pirate ship enjoying lunch and snorkeling. edit

Manta Dive, Gili Trawangan and Gili Air. On Trawangan next to where the boats arrive, [9]. Manta Dive operates on Gili Trawangan and Gili Air. PADI and SSI courses up to instructor available, also offering free diving courses. Excellent instructors and gear. Has also bungalows available. US$35 for fun dive, discount if you do many enough. edit

Trawangan Dive, Gili Trawangan, ☎ +62 370 649220, [10]. High standards, great instructors, new gear, good boats, saltwater pool for training. They also have half a dozen excellent bungalows (US$50/night) with aircon, flat-panel TV/DVD and hot and cold fresh water showers. edit

[edit] Snorkeling

You can rent masks and fins off the beach, or contact any of the numerous dive shops to arrange snorkeling or diving at choice spots nearby. A daily snorkeling programme usually involves a 10AM departure and 4PM return that includes three or four spots around the three islands and a two-hour lunch break. The cost ranges from RP 60,000 to 150,000 depending on the shop and your negotiating skills and includes the fins, mask and snorkel, but not the cost of lunch.

It's possible to snorkel right off the beach, but pay attention to the currents, which can be extremely strong even near the shore. Wear flippers even if you're a strong swimmer, or you'll spend most of your energy fighting the ocean.

A great place for snorkeling is along the main beach road at Gili Trawangan. Start somewhat north (about where you can see seaweeds growing during low tide, around Gili Meno's northern end) and go with the current to the most crowded sunbathing area - you will likely need to kick only when you want to stop to look at something! The healthy corals are near the point where the deep begins, near the shore you'll find only dead corals. Turtles can be seen often, and also occasional triggerfishes. During low tide it's hard to get in without reef shoes, watch out for the waves smashing you into the corals that are just below water level. Small, purple jellyfishes are sometimes plentiful and will sting you, but cause no serious harm. There's also some silt floating near the surface that stings.

[edit] Surfing

Surfing is a distant third to diving and snorkeling, but Gili Trawangan has a fast right hander which can really pump with the right conditions. The best waves are at high tide, and the underlying reef can be sharp so booties can come in handy. The surf break is at the end of the main street towards sunset beach - just follow the locals. There are a few breaks off Gili Air and Gili Meno, but they are more difficult to reach. The best season is the January-June wet season, with swells from 3ft up to 6ft. Daily conditions can be checked out at Magic Seaweed [11].

[edit] Relax

One of the attractions of the islands is the ability to do nothing. With no cars on any of the islands and the lower tempo of Gili Air and Gili Meno, there are several bungalow-style accommodations with verandas that overlook gardens of the ocean. The styles of cafes and restaurants involves small open huts perfect for two to four people to claim for a good part of the day. With a good book and your swimsuit, the day passes quickly when you leave your watch in your bag. The beaches are not exceptional. Gili Trawangan has the nicest beaches of the three islands, but even these are not great and can be over-crowded in some seasons. Gili Meno and Air have their best beaches on the west side of the islands. The south side tends to be windy and rough and the north and east have a lot of coral on the beaches, making the sand rough. On Gili Air, the only pleasant beach for swimming is really in front of the Chill-out cafe and Sunrise Hotel on the main strip.

It is also nice to walk around the islands. The perimeters of the islands are conducive to a two or three hour leisurely walk with no strenuous hills. Just follow the coastline and put on your sunscreen and it makes a nice morning.

Gili Trawangan is known as more of a party island and activities tend to revolve around the bar scene.

Gili Meno has a "bird sanctuary", which is more like a bird zoo owing to the fact that birds are caged and not free to fly around. There are a range of birds and tourists used to go to see the komodo dragon which died in 2007. Access to the site is a short walk in island from the north end of the main strip on the west of the island.

[edit][add listing] Buy

There is now a Bank Mandiri ATM on Gili Trawangan, in front of the Vila Ombak Hotel, but it's not always working so it's better to bring along enough rupiah to tide you over. The rates offered by moneychangers are noticeably poorer than on the mainland. Credit cards are accepted by some of the more upmarket places and all dive shops; some will also arrange credit card advances, but with hefty fees on the order of 7-10%.

Shopping opportunities are very limited. There are plenty of kiosks offering drinks, basic cosmetics, suntan lotion and such, but anything even remotely unusual is best brought with you. The Art Market (Pasar Seni) next to the pier on Gili T has a few scruffy stalls hawking souvenirs, but it's all brought in from elsewhere and the selection is far more limited than what you'd find on Bali or even Lombok.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Cafe View, Gili Air

All the islands feature a myriad of restaurants and cafes concentrated on the beaches. The East sides of all the islands have the most activity. The majority are small cafes with decent food oriented toward tourists in small open huts. Featured food is usually barbecued fish or pizza from a wood-fired oven.

[edit] Gili Air

Starting at the jetty and working your way north on the east side of the island up to Hotel Gili Air there are lots of decent places to eat. Since there is no "fresh" water on the island purified shipped water is the norm, which does not mean that salads are safe, but food might be safer than elsewhere in Indonesia.

Chillout Cafe at the foot of the Sunrise Bungalows has the benefit of the nice beach and good food. Mostly serving some variation of Sasak food with a lot of good curries and satays. Expect to pay about Rp 20,000 for a decent main dish.
Hotel Gili Air is at the north end of most of the action. This is a fancier restaurant than most of the cafes on the island and serves and excellent meal with a nice selection of wines and spirits. The nprice tag is a bit higher than the others at about Rp 40,000 for a meal and another Rp 40,000 for each glass of wine, but the quality is nice. Mostly Italian food served.

[edit] Gili Meno

"Good Heart", Gili Meno

Good Heart Good local dishes (ie, seafood). Located directly on the beach overlooking the sea. This hotel and restaurant are off the beaten track a bit on the other side of the island from most of the facilities. You can take the ring road around the island or a shortcut across the middle of the island to get there. If you are not staying there, this might be a better choice for lunch as walking through the island in the dark may not be comfortable for some travelers.
Yaya warung Choose your fish and let Yon cook it on the open fire. Inexpensive, expect to pay around Rp 25,000 for a fresh fish with nasi goreng and vegetables. Nasi goreng is Rp 7,000 and fresh juices around Rp 6,000. Around 200 m on the right of the "harbour". Slow service, but a chat with the owner and the view will distract you.

[edit] Gili Trawangan

Anna Between the Jetty and the Borobudur Restaurant, this place serves superb local food and is one of the cheapest on the island. Expect to pay about Rp 7,500 for nasi campur.

Beach House, Trawangan. Great seafood buffet but some think kind of expensive (paid about US$ 8.50 for 300 gm fresh baracuda grilled, with salad bar and a 22 oz beer).

Coco Near the pier. Open daily until 5PM, selling the best deluxe sandwiches on the island. Try BLT or grilled vegetables with feta on brown bread. Illy coffee and funtastic brownies or apple-crumble-pie.

Manta Cafe Run by the dive shop next door, has a very large menu offering western, Italian, French, Mexican and Indonesian dishes for around Rp 20-30,000 each. Very good watermelon lassis but don't try the pizzas.

Living Room. Scruffy-looking joint with an extensive menu covering both Indonesian and Western food, but prices are cheap (most mains under Rp 20,000) and the food is excellent. Gets packed in the evenings.

Pesona Shisha-Lounge and great indian style food! Try daals, curries and naans. Located directly in front of the sea. Very nice atmosphere, you can chill on a matress on the ground or lay down in a typical Indonesian 'bruga' (little house on stilts) and listen to Cafe del Mar Cds.

Ryoshi Great Japanese food and fresh air-flown sushi, right next to the Irish Bar (Tir Na Nog).

Scallywags Seafood Grill & Bar, ☎ +62 370 648792, [12]. Fantastic organic seafood, probably the most expensive restaurant in the islands but you can still get a decent meal for under Rp 100,000. Sea views, tasty all-you-can-eat salad buffet and desserts to die for (try the chocolate mousse or cheesecake). edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

Horizontal

There are regular party nights on Gili Trawangan - the various bars take it in turn to host the late night gig (up to 4AM), to ensure that everyone gets together in one place rather than being spread around. The island is small and it is easy to find everything; just ask around for where the party is going to be on any given night. Gili Air and Gili Meno usually have one or two parties a week at different bars during peak season, locals and restaurant owners will usually mention them to you, and sometimes flyers are posted around. The party scene on Gili Air and Meno is much more low-key and not nearly as rowdy as the wild all-nighters on Gili Trawangan.

Horizontal, Trawangan. Probably the only place in the Gilis that wouldn't look out of place in Seminyak, this stylish outdoor bar offers fancy drinks, funky furniture and DJs spinning the night away.

MOZ.ART, Trawangan. Relaxing and chilling Cafe-Restaurant at the bathing and snorkeling beach area with full Indonesian and speciality Austrian food.

Sama Sama, Gili Trawangan (north from the boat arrival). Live reggae music every night. Popular place every evening. edit

Tir Na Nog, Trawangan, [13]. The smallest island in the world to feature an Irish pub gets its self-proclaimed title from this long-running joint offering indoor and outdoor seating, a sushi restaurant and ten villas for rent (Rp 200,000 and up). Party night weekly on Wed.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Sunrise on Trawangan

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget	Under $50
Mid-range	$50-100
Splurge	Over $100

Demand often outstrips supply, so prices tend to be noticeably higher than on Bali or Lombok. During peak season (Jul-Aug, Dec-Jan), it pays to make advance reservations, as the best places are often booked full. Arrive early for better chances of getting accommodation without a reservation. Late arrivers need to be prepared to spend a night at the beach (it's perfectly safe though).

Power is in very short supply on Gili Trawangan, and blackouts with outages of up to 12 hours a day are common. Many mid-range and up places (US$20+) have generators, so ask before you check in — and confirm when it's used as well!

[edit] Budget

There are plenty of largely identical backpacker guesthouses on the islands. The price ranges depending on the season and island. Figure on Rp 50,000-150,000 for a basic room with fan only. Air conditioned rooms are more in the Rp 200,000+ range. When understanding hotel prices, try to negotiate for the "best price" and be clear on whether or not the quoted price includes taxes and breakfast. Some hotels feature fresh water for showering and others use sea water. Even the so called fresh water here has a high saline content so it is hard to feel really clean after a few days.

Generally you'll find more budget options by walking north (i.e. taking the road to right) from the boat arrival point at Gili Trawangan. There are accommodation options also inland, at least the next parallel street to the beach strip has many.

Oda's Cafe & Bungalows, Next to the turtle nursery. Oda's has only two bungalows, so neighbors won't be bothering you a lot. Nice staff, price includes breakfast. No fresh or hot water available. Laundry costs Rp 60,000. Also renting out snorkeling gear for Rp 25,000, and is really close to the best place to start snorkeling. Rp 250,000 for bungalow with fan. edit

Pondok Lita, tel. +62 370 648607. Rp 150,000 plus 10% service charge for a super clean fan room with western bathroom. Tommy the staff there was fantastic and so hospitable. A great safe and friendly place all in a gated garden and in a central location.