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Dali (大理; Dàlǐ) [1] is a city in Yunnan Province in China famous for its old town and handicrafts.

[edit] Understand

Dali is one of the most popular spots for independent China travellers and hugely popular with those working, teaching and studying in China. 50 minutes by plane or five hours by bus from Kunming, Dali is the perfect place to relax.

Dali is the capital city of the prefecture of the same name. It consists of Dali New City (下关; Xiàguān) and Dali Old Town (古城; Gǔchéng). Travellers visit Dali Old Town for its traditional architecture, minority cultures (mostly Bai but also with many Yi and Hui) and simply to relax. The Old Town has a population of 40,000 and the entire Dali Prefecture around three million people and an area of over 10,000 sq km. When discussing Dali, it is important to be clear whether you are talking about the entire city or just the Old Town. There is actually much to do and see in Dali City well outside the Old Town.

With the beautiful Cangshan Mountains a short distance to the west of Dali Old Town (4,200 metres at the peak) and Erhai Lake a few km to the east, it has a perfect natural setting. The climate is temperate with moderate summers and mild winters, though it can get rather windy in autumn and winter.

Despite its fame as a backpacker heaven, Chinese tourists hugely outnumber foreigners. Chinese tourists tend to stay in nearby Xiaguan Town so Dali becomes thankfully quiet in the evenings.

[edit] History

Dali has a long and rather glorious history. In 738 the Nanzhao Kingdom was established with Dali as its capital and covered a large area of Yunnan and northern Burma and parts of Sichuan and Guizhou. The original capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom was located in Weishan (within Dali Prefecture) and later moved to sites around Erhai Lake. The territory conquered was quite substantial and held over a long period. The kingdom survived almost 200 years and had 13 kings before collapsing. After several decades of chaos the Kingdom of Dali emerged in 937.

The Kingdom of Dali established by Duan Siping in 937 was controlled by the Duan clan and survived until conquered by the Mongols in the 12th century. The Kingdom retained a close alliance with the Tang Dynasty, and was one of the major transit points for the introduction of Buddhism throughout the rest of China. By 1000, Dali was one of the 13 largest cities in the world.

1856-1872 Dali was the headquarter of the Panthay Rebellion led by Du Wenxiu. That rebellion commenced as an uprising against local oppressive rulers by the Hui muslim minority and ended as open rebellion against the Qing Dynasty. The Palace of Du Wenxiu is on Fuxing Road and serves as the local museum (the museum exhibition on the rebellion paints it as a patriot workers revolt which it was not). The rebellion was brutally crushed by the Qing and hundreds of thousands of Yunnan muslims were killed in revenge.

Many local people in Dali have the surname Duan to this day (rare in other parts of China). These historical events are immortalised in the Martial Arts literature of Taiwanese author Jin Yong (read by every Chinese school kid), giving Dali a fame nationwide. Both the Nanzhao Kingdom and the Kingdom of Dali had a military alliance with the Tang Dynasty against the aggressive Turfan (Tibetan) Empire which made regular and aggressive incursions into their respective territories.

The rulers of the original Nanzhao Kingdom were probably precursors to the modern Yi peoples, while the Kingdom of Dali rulers were precursors to the modern Bai minority.

A huge memorial steele to the Pacification of Kingdom of Dali was built during the Ming Dynasty and remains standing at the end of Sanyue Street past the city's West Gate. Entrance is free. The Mongols destroyed the old capital and palace of the Kingdom of Dali, located just to the south of the Three Pagodas. Almost all records of both the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms were burnt or destroyed, leaving much unknown about these periods. In addition, the Mongols brutally displaced many of the inhabitants of the prefecture, with the result that Bai minority people were forced as far east as Hunan Province. Many Han Chinese also moved into the Kunming area during this period.

The old Dali City was rebuilt in the early 1400s by the Ming Dynasty. What you see in Dali Old Town today is the rebuilt Ming town. Since then, the fortunes of Dali have declined and its importance as a cultural and economic centre in the Yunnan area have been overtaken by Kunming, the provincial capital.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By bus

Buses from Kunming Bus Station take about six hours and cost ¥67 for an ordinary bus and around ¥110 for an express luxury bus, and will bring you to Xiaguan (Dali New City). Some buses go to Dali, too, so check with the driver. In Xiaguan, there are three different bus stations, to reach the train station, go east along Jianshe Lu and Dianyuan Lu. From Xiaguan Train Station (in Dali New Town) you can take bus 8 and bus 4(¥2, 40 minutes) to Dali Old Town 13 km to the north (Bus 4 also runs through the town). Buses coming south from Lijiang are about ¥60 and stop outside the old town, from where it is possible to get a taxi or walk to the main guesthouses. You can save about ¥20 on the Lijiang bus by simply hailing one on the highway east of the old town.

[edit] By train

There are several night trains from Kunming to Dali Train Station (in Dali New City) leaving 8PM-11PM, and arriving from six to eight hours later. The cost is ¥86 for a night trains sleeper bunk, and ¥35 for day trains hard seat. Bus 8 to the old town leaves regularly for ¥1.5 from just outside the station, terminating at the West Gate.

[edit] By plane

Dali also has an airport located to the east of Dali New City. Flights from Kunming three times a day. It is possible to get heavily discounted tickets (¥300 return Dali-Kunming), but you will need to book well ahead. Otherwise expect to pay ¥320+ each way. From major Chinese cities (Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou), it is possible to book a direct flight to Dali (with a stopover in Kunming) at discounted rates. Best discounts apply to tickets booked 15 days+ in advance.

[edit] Get around

Dali Old Town is small enough to get around on foot, and being laid out in a grid format it is relatively easy to navigate. The major landmarks are the South and North Gates with Fuxing Road running between them, and Yangren Street (Westerner's Street) lined with cafés and tourist shops. City maps are readily available for around ¥5 but tend not to follow the usual north-at-the-top standard because the natural orientation of someone in Dali is to look towards the huge looming Cangs Mountain which runs north-south next to the city. As you look at the mountains and face west, the lake is at your back, or east. This method of orientation makes even more sense when you realize that the entire town gently slopes from the mountains to the lake, making those two landmarks a natural way to find your bearings.

Bikes are also available at many guesthouses and rental huts around town and cost ¥5-40 per day. Bikes vary greatly in quality so shop around for the best deal. The Chinese brands Merida and Giant are among the better ones to consider.

Taxis in Dali Old Town generally cost ¥5 for under 3km (though most drivers will ask for ¥10). For other locations outside the old town, all prices are negotiable. A taxi to Dali New City will cost around ¥40.

In addition to the Old Town, Dali is a Prefecture of over 10,000 sq km. A whole range of destinations exist within the Prefecture that are perfect for the adventurous traveller. All are relatively easily accessible from either Dali Old Town or Dali New City, the major city 13km to the south. A lot of useful information is available from the cafes within the old town on day trips around the prefecture.

[edit] By bus

Xiaguan Bus Station

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Cangshan Mountains

• 苍山; Cángshān.

Take the chairlift up to Zhonghe Temple (worth it as the hike up is not that great, the paths hard to find and rather painful). Entrance to the Mountain Park costs ¥30 so they can keep the mountain clean, and the chairlift ¥50 round trip or ¥30 one way. From Zhonghe Temple you have a choice of paths running North or South, with each offering equally spectacular views of the mountains, valley and lake. You can head south towards Xiaguan along good paths for up to 8 hours (with several early exit points down the mountain) and enjoy the spectacular view. The northern route offers the option to head up the mountain and enjoy forest, running streams, and even a swim in the cold waters of a beautiful natural pool. Neither route involves particularly difficult hiking or climbing and the quality of the path is good. If you are particularly dedicated, you can gain free access to the mountain by taking the very long and painful route behind the One Pagoda and up the stairway behind the Dali Tianlongbabu TV City. Another route is by taking the gondola behind the Guangtong Temple about 8km south of Dali. You can take the bus down to the temple (worth a visit in itself) and then a motorbike up to the Guangtong Cablecar (around ¥80 return). A very beautiful part of Cangshan Mountains with panoramic views of Erhai Lake.

Wild azaleas in the Cangshan Mountains

Zhonghe temple itself is an old Daoist temple and well worth a visit (but please do not make donations as the monks are nothing of the sort and have subcontracted the temple as a profit-making exercise). The path, named the Cloud Traveller's Path, is one of the least crowded in China with local tourists only walking a few hundred metres from the chairlift, and you may only encounter a few groups along the entire 17km length.

You can head south along good paths for up to 11km towards the Gantong Temple (with a couple early exit points down the mountain, within a few kilometers of Zhong He Temple, leading to Dali Movie City) and enjoy the view. The path itself is clean, very well maintained and very easy walking. It was built by locals with amazing effort and a lot of dynamite. Each of the 4 valleys you walk through offers spectacular views of both the mountains and forests as well as the entire Dali valley. From an altitude of 2500 m you can view both the peaks which range up to 4100m and the valley and Erhai lake below. The 7 Dragon Maidens pool, 6km from Zhonghe temple is a stunning set of mountain stream pools of varying colors and one of the highlights of the walk.

Northern view on the Cloud Path in the Cangshan Mountains

A suggested route would be to take the chairlift up to Zhonghe Temple, take the northern path for 3km enjoying the clearest view of the entire valley, then head back south past Zhonghe Temple towards Gantong Temple. Good coffee is available at cafes behind the temple, so take a break, then keep walking the full 11km until you reach Gangtong. If you are not up to the full walk, you can exit the mountain about 3km past Zhonghe Temple down a well made stairway behind Dali Tianlongbabu TV City. The English signs along the path are very informative.

If you visit Dali, plan to spend at least one day up in the mountains. You can also overnight at guesthouses behind Zhonghe Temple, enjoying the most blissful peace and quiet available in China. Well worth it!

[edit] Other sights

• Butterfly Spring, (If you really want to see this you can catch a minibus from outside the west gate). A shallow pool that periodically swarms with countless butterflies. Otherwise the site includes a fairly nice park, a small butterfly breeding centre and an uterly bizzare exhibition hall with various pictures made from hundreds of dead butterflies of different colours which were presumably raised and killed on-site. (Local guide informed that butterfly no more because of pollution - September 2009) ¥60.  edit

• Erhai Lake. Visit Guanyin Temple and several islands. Go with a group and enjoy a great day out. Boats can be easily arranged as the owners come into town to drum up business and you can see what you are getting from the photobooks they carry. You get what you pay for, so do not expect a great trip with a cheap boat. Be aware of ferry stations not on the map. Ferry rides at real stations cost around ¥5, but the fake stations charge ¥150! A ¥30 entrance fee is charged for all lake visits, plus ¥50-100 per person for a day on the lake.  edit

• Wase Market. Combine a trip to Erhai Lake with a visit to the Wase Market on the eastern shore of the lake. Wase is a traditional and conservative Bai town with a weekly market aimed at both townpeople and nearby farmers. The market offers an interesting look at life in a quiet country town.  edit

Dali's famous Three Pagodas

• Tang Dynasty Three Pagodas, (10 minutes by bike to the northwest of Dali Old Town (next door to Three Pagodas Hotel)). Offering one of the best preserved Buddhist structures in China. However, the compounds behind the pagodas were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution and were rebuilt starting in 1986. The Central Pagoda is almost 1200 years old and represents a period when Dali was a Buddhist Kingdom. The Congshen Temple behind the Three Pagodas has recently been rebuilt and reopened, after deteriorating in the 20th century due to earthquakes, fires and the Cultural Revolution. It is a massive complex that continues far up the mountain, where a climb to the top of the pagodas rewards with a beautiful overlook of Dali Ancient Town and Erhai Lake. Worth a visit for the Tang architecture, numerous statues of the Buddha and Guanyin with influences from both India and China, dragon fountains, and two small museum showcases. ¥126+ (student ID gives a 50% discount).  edit

• Shaping Market, (About 30km north of Dali). Shaping Town offers a lively weekly market with plenty of local color. The market starts early. A great chance to see local farmers out in force and literally watch plenty of horse trading.  edit

• Xizhou, (About 20km north of Dali, can be visited on the way back from Shaping Market). Xizhou has almost 200 national heritage listed private houses dating from the Qing Dynasty. The houses are among the best examples of traditional Qing architecture in China and are exquisitely detailed. Chinese style with local touches. Building craftsmen from Xizhou were famous throughout Southeast Asia and travelled to Vietnam, Myanmar and throughout Southwest China to build and decorate houses. When they made their fortune, they returned to Xizhou to build their own dream home. As most of these houses are currently occupied, you will need to be on your best behaviour, knock and enter with permission. The best way to see the finest examples are with a local guide as many of the interesting houses are difficult to find. Nonetheless, with a little legwork and good manners you can locate plenty of interesting architecture on your own. The family estate of the Yan clan is preserved as a museum and open to the public, and while an excellent example of the architecture of the very rich is too commercial and compares poorly with more ordinary family homes in the township  edit

• Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture Museum, (In the modern part of Dali). Worth a visit. It has an extensive collection of exhibits, with most signs in both Chinese and English. The museum grounds are beautiful as well, the exhibits are set around a traditional garden. ¥10.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Cycling Dali, 55 the center square of foreigner's street boai road, Dali old Town, ☎ +86 872 2671385, [2]. Best bike rental place in Dali. Brand-new quality bikes including Trek and others and professional bike rental service. You can get bike tours as well as self-guided bike routes.  edit

Rock Climbing in Dali, China

• ClimbDali (大理攀岩), 393 Renmin Road, ☎ +86 131 50644701, [3]. Dali now has rock climbing! 20 routes have already been bolted (Shuanglang and Binchuan) with potential for hundreds more.  edit

• Jizu Mountain (lit. Chicken Foot Mountain), (Further away from Dali to the northeast behind Wase on the east side of Erhai Lake, take a bus (2 hours) from Xiaguans Northern Bus Station to Binchuan and from there change to a minibus or bus (1 hour)). The mountain and its ranges look like a chicken's foot. Actually a 2-3 day trip in its own right. The top and slopes are covered in temples, many in a state of disrepair. Some have been restored and have resident monks. This is a difficult hike with the summit at 3200 metres. Be prepared. Or there are horse rides and a cable car that starts halfway up.  edit

• Studying traditional Chinese martial arts, [4]. Study with Wudang Mountain Daoist monk Zhou Xuanyun.  edit

• Erhai Paradise, (By Erhai Lake). Certainly worth a visit. It is a magical Buddhist haven with giant statues, empty amphitheaters, demon-statues, tea gardens and an artificial beach. One way is to hire a taxi driver form Dali or Xiaguan for the entire day and negotiate a price. The driver can take you to the boat jetty and show you onto the island ferry. You will sail across the lake. Explore the island and come back by boat, where your driver will be waiting to take you to a restaurant for dinner, or temples and bars as you wish. Total for the day about ¥500.  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

Be very careful because they will try to rip you off no matter who you are. If they say a shirt is ¥500, it is really worth ¥25. If they try to sell you a Jade Buddha for ¥4000, it is really worth ¥50. Best idea for getting the right price is undercutting them SIGNIFICANTLY. Usually slash the price in half, or even take off 75%.

Dali has a number of famous local products.

• Fried cheese - You must try the local rusan that is crispy and delicious. Available at any of the restaurants or from street stalls.

• Marble - Dali has exquisite marble (a little difficult to carry) which is carved into all sorts of products: vases, ashtrays, carved animals and more. The marble stone can also be cut and polished revealing pictures on the surface. These are known as chushi and can be bought framed and make beautiful wall decorations. Many people can mistake them for traditional Chinese paintings. Cheaper chushi (generally the white and grey type) will sell for ¥60+ per item. More expensive and colored stone with clear mountain landscapes can be priced at ¥10,000+. The Chinese word for marble is Dalishi or Dali stone, indicating just how famous Dali marble is throughout China.

• Batik - The local batik fashioned from dye and wax is also popular and cheap.

• Embroidery - You can also purchase beautiful minority embroidery (generally Miao minority from Guizhou Province) at a number of shops. The embroidered items include baby carriers, clothing or decorative patches that were attached to traditional costume.

• Teahouse - Dali has great teahouses. Relax in a teahouse regularly, buy a little tea and you will be welcome to come back at any time, with friends, usually for free. Sample new teas and as long as you buy something every so often, you will be welcomed again and again.

[edit][add listing] Eat

In the old town, Western food is widely available and cheap. For a traditional Chinese meal served catering for four people along with beer expect to pay ¥80. Western meals average around ¥25, including a bottle of the local beer. Breakfast prix fixe menus are served everywhere and average around ¥25 including coffee.

Fruit stands and corner stores abound. Try to get a feel for prices before buying if you want to avoid paying exorbitant prices. You can buy apples for ¥1-2/shijin (a half kilo), a bottle of water for ¥1.5 and noodles/dumplings for ¥4/plate.

[edit] Budget

• Golden Local-Style Noodles, Renmin Road (Near Fuxing Road, several storefronts to the left of Bad Monkey). Noodle shop that specialized in Cross-the-Bridge Noodles, a local specialty where a bowl of hot broth is brought to the table, and then the rice noodles and a number of plates with small quantities of other foods is immediately added by the waiter. The menu is all in Chinese, but there are pictures displayed throughout, and ordering should be no problem.  edit

• Vegetarian, Beef and Pork Dumplings, Renmin Road. Great place for fresh homemade dumplings. Nine dumplings with sauce just made and freshly steamed only cost ¥3.5.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

[edit] Chinese

• Sun Island Cafe (太阳岛; Tàiyángdǎo), 324 Renmin Road (Towards the East Gate), ☎ +86 872 2676075. A couple of steps away from the main tourist avenues lies this hybrid of Chinese and Japanese culture. This is the place to go for some genuine Japanese food cooked up the Chinese/Japanese/English speaking owner or to relax to some chilled out music. The Japanese crew that manages the place might even throw a Jombei, Didgeridoo, Jews harp party which guests are more than welcome to join in on using any of the plentiful instruments. If the night creeps up on you after to many drinks or smokes then there is also a dormitory for ¥20 a night.  edit

• Marley's Cafe, Huguo Road (Central Old Dali Town), ☎ +86 872 2676651. Excellent first floor restaurant. Very good Bai dishes. Nice decor. Cheap and has a narrow balcony great for people watching  edit

• OM SHANTI, 245 Renmin Road (East, down towards lake), ☎ +86 872 2679306. Vegetarian restaurant which serves great food and has a great, laid back atmosphere. The staff are very helpful too and can give you loads of helpful information.  edit

• September, ☎ +86 872 2670266. Sichuan food.  edit

• Dali Cookery School, East Gate Village, Dali Old Town, ☎ +86 15087289471 (dalicookeryschool@gmail.com). Why not try to cook several Chinese dishes? Great time and good food. Several courses available with four dishes in each. Visit the local market to buy all the fresh veggies. Can be booked direct or through several guesthouses in Dali.  edit

[edit] Western

• The Sweet Tooth (Sweet Tooth 甜点屋; Sweet Tooth Tiándiǎnwū), 52 Boai Road (博爱路52号; Bó'àilù) (On a corner in Dali Old Town). This cafe specializes in pastries and desserts. The cafe is owned and operated by the local hard of hearing. The owner, having studied culinary arts in the United States, produces delicious and high quality desserts, coffee, and milkshakes among other items.  edit

• Cafe de Jack (樱花园咖啡; Yīnghuāyuán Kāfēi), 82 Boai Road (博爱路82号; Bó'àilù), ☎ +86 872 2671572. Definitely Dali's oldest Western cafe. Has a fireplace, great apple pie, pleasant atmosphere and a great rooftop garden. While the menu is a little tired, the breakfast is good, the chocolate cake legendary, and the lasagne just delicious. Spread over three levels, Cafe de Jack is the largest and most successful of the backpacker cafe/bars in Dali. Very popular with locals and travellers alike. The owners, local brothers Jack and Tim, are often on hand to provide good travel advice.  edit

• Bakery 88 (88号西点店; 88hào Xīdiǎndiàn), 88 Boai Road (博爱路88号; Bó'àilù) (Next to Cafe de Jack), [5].  edit

• Caffeine Club (蚀日谈酒吧; Shírìtán Jiǔbā), 370 Renmin Road, Dali Old Town (人民路370号; Rénmínlù) (Nestled in the lower reaches of Renmin Road towards the lake), ☎ +86 872 2675787. Bangladeshi/American managed operation in a delightful courtyard setting. Food options are limited at the moment, but don't worry, Dante's coming soon. The coffee is arguably the best in town, and the pool table attracts some late afternoon to early morning drinkers. Opening music recording studio soon, as well as Yunnan Childrens' Charity  edit

• Bad Monkey (坏猴子; Huàihóuzi), 74 Renmin Road, Dali Old Town (人民路74号; Rénmínlù). From 7PM. One of Dali's longest running bars. It is hosted by Englishmen Carl and Scott who entertain guests before the dancing starts later in the evening with a Derek and Clive patter of jokes and one-liners. The Monkey is a magnet to travelers, many of whom seem to wander in and never leave. The downstairs bar area is a cozy, ad-hoc space with two sofa-seating areas. The once limited beer menu, Tsingtao, Yanjing and Beer Lao, is nowadays supplemented by a couple of alternatives, along with a range of expensive cocktails, and the best toasted baguettes in town, try the bacon and cheese.  edit

• Jim's Peace Cafe (大理吉姆和平饭店; Dàlǐ Jímǔhépíng Fàndiàn), Boai Road (With Jim's Guesthouse). Excellent Tibetan goulash, vegetarian or with yak meat. All-you-can-eat banquet for groups of four or more, ¥30 a head. Various other dishes. One of the town's oldest traveller hangouts.  edit

• Old Dali Four Seasons Inn (四季客栈; Sìjì Kèzhàn), 55 Boai Road (博爱路55号; Bó'àilù) (Near East Gate), ☎ +86 872 2670382. Great place to meet people and pick up travel tips; the Inn is a major backpacker hangout and everyone discusses their next expedition over breakfast. Unfortunately, this place relocated and no longer provide all-you-can-eat breakfast.  edit

• Pine Haven (松隐居咖啡; Sōngyǐnjū Kāfēi), (Up on Cangshan Mountain behind Zhonghe Temple on the mountain path, just a short chairlift ride away!). A long way to go for the best chocolate cake in Dali, but the view is worth it. Run by a young Dali woman, Leah who speaks excellent English and entertains guests with amusing stories as well as useful advice on hiking in the mountains. A great place to stop for a break, excellent coffee, or even to pack a sandwich lunch on a long hike up on Cangshan.  edit

• La Stella's Pizzeria (新星比萨房; Xīnxīng Bǐsàfáng), 21 Huguo Road, Dali Old Town (护国路21号, Hùguólù), ☎ +86 872 2679251. A well-run operation making generous portions of delicious woodfired pizzas, pastas, salads and Chinese dishes at good-value prices. They also have a wide selection of alcoholic beverages. The staff speak English and there is a travel agent out the back of the three-storey restaurant. Worth a visit.  edit

[edit] Splurge

[edit][add listing] Drink

A 500ml bottle of Dali Beer will cost you ¥8-10 in a bar and about ¥3-4 from a grocer. A large selection of beer is on offer but some are coloured green and require an acquired taste. But for the price, there is no excuse not to sample the lot.

• Bird Bar (鸟吧; Niǎobā), 22 Renmin Road (人民路22号; Rénmínlù), ☎ +86 872 2661843 (birdbar@hotmail.com), [6]. A mix of interesting people from all over China and the world gather at this watering hole, which was the first bar on Renmin Road. Bird Bar was featured in Zachary Mexico's "China Underground." There is a wide selection of beer, wine and liquor as well as coffee, tea and an eclectic mix of food, including excellent pizza and Greek style yogurt.  edit

• Bad Monkey (坏猴子). is hosted by Englishmen Carl and Scott. Good selection of local, Thai beers and Beer Lao is supplemented by a range of inventive cocktails, and the best toasted baguettes in town. It's on 74 Renmin Lu in Dali Old Town.  edit

• Daliba (大理吧; Dàlǐbā), 260 Renmin Road, Dali Old Town. The first flavoured vodka bar in China, owned by Vanessa from Guizhou province. More than 30 flavoured vodkas made by Vanessa and Kiki, beer and cocktails are available too!  edit

• Sun Island Cafe (太阳岛). A cool relaxed place where people come with music to spin. Owned by some awesome friendly Japanese guys, this is the place to come and meet people and listen to live music played on the digeridoo and instuments made from any old junk they can lay their hands on. Well worth a visit for a few drinks, well worth a stay in the rooms they have for visitors in the courtyard.  edit

• ClimbDali (大理攀岩), 393 RenMin Lu, [7]. Boulder bar offers free bouldering, cheap beer, and information on rock climbing around Dali. Also has an organic garden and pool table.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Dali has some of the cheapest accommodation options available in all China. Lots of accommodation to chose from. Expect to pay ¥15-30 for a dorm bed, ¥40 and up for rooms, ¥60-300 for a double room with private shower and toilet.

[edit] Budget

[edit] Hostels

• Bird Nest (鸟窝), 22 Renmin Road (Tucked into a courtyard Bai house at the top of Renmin Road), ☎ +86 872 2661843, [8]. Unique atmosphere and very comfortable range of rooms from dorm beds, single, double and suite rooms to a private, 3 bedroom courtyard house with kitchen. Free wifi, 24 hour hot water, chill bar, good pizza and great Greek style yogurt. ¥30-500.  edit

• Dali Mingtong Yinxian Youth Hostel, Caicun Dock, Dali Old Town, ☎ +86 872 2691261, 13888635082. Just right on the lakeside of Erhai Lake, you can see the enjoyable view of the whole lake from the terrace on the third floor. Located in a Bai village, it is very quiet here at night. Dorms ¥25, ensuite doubles from ¥80.  edit

• Dali Three Pagodas Youth Hostel (Hostelling International), (Situated north-west of the old town, just west of the main road, and only a five-minute walk away), ☎ +86 872 2666398, 13529651981 (yhadl@sohu.com). This hostel is quite new, has friendly staff and is clean and pleasant. They are still working on the courtyard and gardens but they already look great. There is a large comfortable lounge with two PCs and free internet access, self-catering kitchen, roof terrace with great views and a travel service. The hostel is empty off-season.  edit

• Dragonfly Garden Guest House, (Erhai Lake, a short ride on bus 2), ☎ +86 15912600503, [9]. Beautiful gardens with mountain view and Tipi. DVD players in rooms plus DVD room with huge library. Free internet access and music copying facilities (over 100 gigs). Facilities provided for musicians, artists and performers of all kinds. Set in authentic Bai village next to great swimming spots. Rooms ¥10-100.  edit

• The Jade Emu International Guesthouse, (outside the west wall, 5 minutes walk to the centre of town), ☎ +86 872 2677311, +86 13887232726 or +86 15887399551 (reservations@jade-emu.com), [10]. Built in 2008 and run by Dave (from Australia) and his partner Song (from China). Double, twin/triple share and dorm rooms available, all are modern, clean and comfortable. Facilities include spacious courtyard and rooftop balcony, pool table, bar with outdoor home theatre system, free internet (including WIFI), satellite TV, fax/printing facilities, laundry service, bike rental. ¥125-140.  edit

• Lee's Guesthouse, Dali Old Town, ☎ +86 872 2671385, 872 3156069 (cyclingdali@yahoo.com), [11]. Setup in 2008 and run by Lee's family from Inner Mongolia. It provides quality accommodation for backpackers. Cozy, clean and comfortable. Facilities include local Bai minority courtyard , mosquito-free accommodation, free internet & WIFI, free movie, family dinner 7PM (book one day ahead), fax/printing/scan, cd/dvd buring, laundry service, quality bike rental(shimano system), 1 yuan/min international call and travel agency. English spoken. Dorm rooms and double rooms ¥25-290.  edit

• The Lily Pad (百合国际青年公寓; Bǎihé Guójìqīngniángōngyù), 13 Shizu, Ximen Village (西门村十组13号; Xīméncūn Shízǔ) (5 minutes from the center of Dali Old Town, in the street just behind Jade Emu), ☎ +86 13988569807, +86 872 2677807 (chinaerin@yahoo.cn), [12]. Clean and friendly with beautiful bedrooms and from the roof it has views of the pagodas, lake and mountains. Some bedrooms are en-suite, all are good value. Free high speed internet and Wi-Fi in the rooms plus access to a printer. The hostess Erin speaks good English and is very helpful and kind. Doubles with shared bathroom from ¥60, ensuite from ¥90, cheaper for longer stays.  edit

• Smile Cafe, Renmin Road, Dali Old Town (Five minutes further downhill from the tourist concentration), ☎ +86 872 2670565 (wangzhenchi@hotmail.com). Intimate, charming and cheap with the comforts of Dali's best Guesthouses. The young English speaking couple that run Smile Cafe have befriended many a traveler with laid back attitudes, approachability, and helpfulness. Smile Cafe is on Renmin Road, a main street. Cheap accomodation with nice rooms, laundry, free internet, hot water, courtyard with sun and Ping Pong, TV and DVD player. Dorms ¥25-30.  edit

• TTF Cafe Hostel, 11 Luyu Road, Dali Old Town (大理古城绿玉路11号) (One minute walk on Luyu Road (绿玉路) from south end of Boai Road (博爱路) where intersects with Yita Road (一塔路)), ☎ +86 13988536165 (springzhfy@gmail.com). This may be the best bargain in the area. Free green tea, internet machine, WIFI, 24hr solar-hybrid hot shower, western-style toilet. Dorms and private rooms available. Dorms ¥15 (¥10 for members).  edit

[edit] Hotels

• Bookworm Dali, Renmin Road, [13]. Run by a well travelled Beijing lady who speaks Japanese and French in addition to Mandarin and English. It was originally a bookstore and expanded to include a guesthouse at the urging of its customers. Bookworm is popular with the crowd who are in Dali for longer stays, making it useful to book in advance. They are among the few places in Dali who accept email bookings.  edit

• Jim's Tibetan Guest House. Very comfortable, clean and well appointed single rooms. Obsequious yet relaxed service. Singles ¥150.  edit

• Koreana Guesthouse. This Korean-themed guesthouse is located on the Foreign Street very close to the Chinese Construction Bank ATM. The staff is pleasant and well-trained and the manager speaks good English. They have Western toilets! They also provide a quick and free laundry service. Avoid rooms facing the street as they can be quite noisy in the evenings and mornings. ¥150-300.  edit

• MCA, (Just outside South Gate).  edit

• New No. 5 Guest House, (Down Renmin Road near East Gate).  edit

• No. 3 Guesthouse, Huguo Road, ☎ +86 872 2664941. Nice, inexpensive, quiet option just outside the gates of the old town. The helpful staff speak Korean, Chinese and English and will accommodate most reasonable requests. Rooms on the second floor are pricier than those on the first. Restaruant on the first floor specializes in Korean fare but offers other dishes as well. Rooms are relatively clean. You should be able to bargain a double down to ¥70-80, including private bathroom.  edit

• Sam's Hotel, Yuxiu Road, 2 Yuyuan Street, Dali Old Town (Just outside South Gate), ☎ +86 13508724012, [14]. Run by Bai local Sam, the hotel offers peaceful and spacious modern bedrooms. The hotel also offers a family suite and a comfortable modern group room. There is a restaurant and a bar serving Chinese, Bai and Western food. Sam is of help to anyone journeying in China. ¥120.  edit

• Tibetan Lodge, 58 Renmin Road, Dali Old Town, ☎ +86 872 2664177, 2678917. A guest house and restaurant with a lot of character and atmosphere. Cheap but with poor service. No Western toilets and sometimes no A/C. Room types available include singles, doubles, triples, family, and suites. Slow but free internet is provided (wireless or on very slow desktops in the lounge). The restaurant downstairs is good, but a little on the expensive side. Single rooms start at ¥39.  edit

• Yu Yuan Guesthouse, (A block West of the main tourist area), ☎ +86 872 2673267. New, clean, with friendly English-speaking staff. Doubles with bathtub and electric blankets. The breakfast is good. Doubles ¥80 including breakfast.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Higherland Inn, Zhonghe Temple, Cangshan Mountains, ☎ +86 872 2661599, 13988539680, [15]. Up in the Cang Mountains behind the Zhonghe Temple at 2600m altitude, with a spectacular view of the lake and valley. Blissfully peaceful. A short cablecar ride away and a great place to overnight while exploring the Cangshan Mountains. Great food, highly recommended for vegetarians, you can taste the sattvas. Booking advised as capacity is limited.  edit

• The Linden Centre, 5 Cheng Bei Xizhou (Located twelve miles north of Dali in timeless village of Xizhou), ☎ +86 872 2452988, [16]. In one of Southwest China's most pristine examples of traditional Bai architecture. Developed and managed by an American couple who has been involved in China since 1984, offers 14 upscale double rooms in the completely restored, nationally-protected villa. The Centre also has a small museum, two restaurants, a cafe/bar, library, conference rooms, exercise room, and four elegant courtyards full of gardens and outdoor seating.  edit

• Landscape Hotel (大理古城兰林阁酒店; Dàlǐgǔchéng Lánlíngé Jiǔdiàn), Yu'er Road, Dali Old Town (大理古城玉洱路96号; Dàlǐgǔchéng Yùěrlù) (At the foot of Cang Mountain close to Erhai Lake), ☎ +86 872 2666188 (landscapehotel@sohu.com, fax: +86 872 2666189), [17]. Spacious rooms with internet access against surcharge. Business center, currency exchange, gift shop, ticket office, massage and sauna available. Chinese restaurant, coffee shop and room service. Listed rates for doubles from ¥460, discounted from ¥250, including breakfast.  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Regent Hotel (大理风花雪月大酒店; Dàlǐ Fēnghuāxuěyuè Dàjiǔdiàn), Yu'er Road, Dali Old Town (大理古城玉洱路; Dàlǐgǔchéng Yùěrlù) (On Cang Mountain facing Erhai Lake), ☎ +86 872 2666666 (mail@regenthotel.cn, fax: +86 872 2682082), [18]. Five star hotel in Bai architecture style. Very large rooms with free internet. Business center, currency exchange, gift shop, beauty salon, ticket office, karaoke, night club, billiards, table tennis, fitness, tennis, massage and outdoor swimming pool available. Chinese and Western restaurants as well as coffee shop and bar. The hotel comes with everything you can expect from a Chinese five star hotel, but lacks something in taste, service and Western breakfast compared to what you will find in larger citires. Listed rates for doubles ¥880-5,800 including breakfast.  edit

[edit] Stay safe

There are a few scams and petty crime targeting tourists in Dali. Watch your belongings carefully to protect from pickpockets and theft, though perhaps the major risk you take if staying in cheap accommodation is theft by other foreign travellers. Overall Dali is a very safe place with little crime directed at tourists.

If you are planning to hike up the Cang mountains, travel in a group both to protect yourself from robbery and as back up in case of accident.

Drugs disguised as strange artifacts are usually sold by women in traditional Bai costume, who will then lead you to their homes. Marijuana is widespread in Dali's foreign bars.

Don't get your shoes fixed by men approaching you on the corner of Fu Xing Rd and Foreigner St. Even if a price is agreed, they will add a couple of extra stitches and charge ridiculously inflated prices (200-300 RMB). You're in a difficult position to argue because they have your shoes! Just go to a regular established shoe shop (there are several towards the East end of Renmin Rd) where you can get your shoes repaired well for less than 10 RMB.

[edit] Get out

Most of the hostels and travel agents can organise bus tickets anywhere in Yunnan. They can also arrange flights farther afield.

Many travelers from Kunming continue on from Dali to Lijiang. Consider taking the smaller bus through the mountains toward Jianchuan (can be picked up at the main bus station in Xiaguan - "New" Dali City). Get off the bus at the fork in the road in the village of Diannan (about 8km south of Jianchuan). Get into a minibus and visit the Old Southern Silk Road town of Shaxi. The town has been well preserved and still holds much of its traditional character. The valley around it is littered with Qing and Ming Dynasty homes, bridges, theatres and temples. It is also the main jumping off point to visit the beautiful grottos at Shibaoshan. After your visit to Shaxi it is easy to continue your journey. A minibus from Shaxi or Shibaoshan can take you to the main bus station in Jianchuan. From there it is easy to get a bus on to Lijiang.

There is also a sleeper service to Shangrila, coming from Xiaguan, and passing Dali at 20:30h (¥120). However, it fills up quickly and can only be booked at a few agencies in Foreigners road (as of Oct 2009)