Cochabamba

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Cochabamba, the third largest city in Bolivia, is located some 240km southeast of La Paz. The city, set on a plain surrounded by low mountains, is known for its moderate climate and is often called Bolivia's "resort city". Other nicknames for Cochabamba include the "Garden City" and the "city of eternal spring".

Plaza 14 de Septiembre and the cathedral
Plaza 14 de Septiembre and the cathedral

[edit] Understand

[edit] Orientation

The main thoroughfare in Cochabamba is Avenida de las Heroinas, which runs east-west. Plaza 14 de Septiembre is considered the center of the city. Avenida Ballivian, commonly called The Prado, is a tree-lined boulevard north of the center with many of the city's better restaurants and hotels. Generally, neighborhoods get more affluent towards the north, and poorer to the south.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

LAB [1] has several flights a day to Cochabamba's Jorge Wilstermann Airport from La Paz and Santa Cruz. If flying from La Paz, sit on the left side to get a stunning view of Mt. Illimani just off the wingtip. Alternatively, one can fly in Bolivia's other airline, Aerosur (368 B one-way as of June 2007), who also has flights from La Paz, Santa Cruz and other Bolivian cities. A taxi to the center of town from the airport is about Bs45-50 (Bs 15 paid on 7/31/07).

LAB no longer exists -- Aerosur is the only option for flights to Cochabamba, with the possible exception of TAM, the Military airline that also runs some commercial flights.

[edit] By bus

The terminal is some 10 blocks south of the center, just north of the market called Cancha.

  • From La Paz, it's seven hours by bus to Cochabamba via Oruro.
  • It's 10 hours by bus from Santa Cruz, 30 Bs.
  • Night buses to Sucre, 11 bumpy and cold hours, 40 Bs.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By bus

Like La Paz, Cochabamba has microbuses and trufis, but proportionately fewer than taxis.

[edit] By taxi

Flag down any beat-up looking Japanese compact car on the street, you can be sure it's a taxi. A fare within town should be Bs 5-6.

[edit][add listing] See

Christo de la Concordia
Christo de la Concordia
  • Cristo de la Concordia. The statue is just a bit higher than the one in Rio de Janeiro, -great view of the city. Walk Calle Colombia until its eastern end, then a swift right: This park/playground is where the cable car goes from, 3 Bs each way. You can also walk, but stay in a group, as rumours has it robbers attack. Finally, taxi is always an option.
  • Simón I. Patiño Cultural Center (Centro Pedagógico y Cultural Simón I. Patiño) [2], Av. Potosí 1450. Includes the Palacio Portales mansion, gardens (Jardines), and an art museum (Centro de Arte Contemporáneo). The mansion was built by Patiño, a tin magnate who controlled over half of the nation's output in the 1930s.

[edit][add listing] Do

The city is Bolivia`s paragliding capital. Several agencies offer tandem flights and courses. A typical beginner´s course will take minimum 10 days (2 hours theory and 4 hours practice every day) and cost about 3000 Bs. Among the cheapest on the continent.

[edit][add listing] Buy

One of the city's biggest attractions is La Cancha, the city market on the south side of town and the largest open-air market in South America. Clothing, food, souvenirs, or books, the Cancha has it all. The market district spills out along Av. San Martin, which runs north from the Cancha to the center.

On the southeast corner of Ayacucho and Heroinas there's a slightly upscale market with lots of souvenir stalls.

La Cancha
La Cancha

[edit][add listing] Eat

Thanks to the city's origin as an agricultural center for mining communities, Cochabamba claims to have the best food in Bolivia.

  • Cristal, Av. de las Heroinas E-352 (Between 25 de Mayo and España). Very neat and clean. Good breakfasts 15-21 Bs, set lunch 16 Bs..  edit
  • Eli´s, Corner of Colombia and 25 de Mayo. Inspired by North American joints. Pizza slices Bs 10-15, sandwich combos Bs 20.  edit
  • Casa de Campo, Av. Uyuni 618. Located in among other upscale restaurants in the Recoleta neighborhood up north, this popular joint is favored by Cochabamba's rich and famous (whoever that may be). Good pique macho and other local dishes.
  • Sucremanta, Several locations: Plaza 14 de Septiembre, and on the Prado. Dishes from Sucre, based on "grandmother's recipes". The Plaza branch, with live piano music on Sundays, is a great place for brunch. Try the hearty menudito (spicy stew).
  • Dumbo, Av. Heroinas E-0354, also El Prado 55. Bolivia's favorite family restaurant. The main joint on Heroinas is always packed, with four dining floors and enough dancers in animal suits to keep the entire juvenile population of Cochabamba entertained.
  • Kebbab - Las Mille y Uno Noches, (right next to Palacio Portales). A tasty reminder that South America isn't the only region known for huge cuts of meat roasted on spits. Great atmosphere thanks to the exotic paintings depicting the One Thousand and One Nights.
  • Hwa. Mixed Korean and Japanese.
  • Muahai, SW corner of Plaza Colon. Lunch and dinner. Standard chinese. The antradas at around Bs 15 are full meals.  edit
  • Panchita. fast food chicken in several versions for nuggets to strips.
  • Gopal, C Espa�a 250, is a vegetarian "Indian" restaurant, with cheap but overrated food. Monday to Friday from 11:30 to 21:00, Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 to 15:00.
  • Tulasi, Av. Heroinas 270, is a vegetarian restaurant seemingly without regular opening times.
  • Also try one of the many bakeries in town. Good for a eat out in the park watching the police' blow orcestra.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Most small bars are on 25 de Mayo and España close to Plaza Colon. Av. Ballivian (Prado) has bigger and noisier stuff. The joints grow fancier and more expensive has you head north into Recoleta, centred on Calle Pando.

The best chicha, fermented corn base beverage is said to come from the Cochabamba region. The small town of Punata, some distance to the southwest, is especially well-known.

  • Cafe Paris, NE corner of Plaza 14 de Setiembre (Corner of Bolivar and 25 de Mayo). European style. Coffees Bs 4-17.  edit
  • Cocafe, Calle Venezuela (Between España and 25 de Mayo). Small, cozy, well decorated. 0,6 l beer 10 Bs.  edit
  • Panchos, Calle Mayor Rocha (Between España and 25 de Mayo). Starts out as a bar, turns into a club. Mostly latin music. 1 l beer Bs 15..  edit
  • Picasso´s, Calle España (Between Equador and Mayro Rocha). Nice warm up venue. Tables, bar, play dice. 1 l beer Bs 15.  edit
  • Lujos, Calle Beni (Almost on the corner of Santa Cruz). Until sunrise on weekends. Full dance floor, mostly classics. Entry 10-15 Bs, pint of beer 10 Bs..  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

  • Hotel Los Angeles, Ave. Esteban Arze 345, (between Jordán and Sucre), 450-0800. Decent budget hotel in a good location. Singles Bs 70, doubles Bs 120, with bath and breakfast. It competes with the Hotel Las Vegas (similar prices and standard) across the street for the cheesiest norteamericano decor.
  • Hostal Buenos Aires, Calle 25 de Mayo 329 (Half a block from Plaza Colon), +591 4 425 3911 (, fax: +591 4 452 2719). Excellent location. Very thin walls. Single, shared bath 40 Bs, with bath 60 Bs..  edit
  • Residencia Familiar, Calle Sucre E-554, 422-7988-450-4609. Three blocks from Plaza 14 de Septiembre and two blocks from Avenida Heroinas. Clean room with two beds and shared bath 60b. Larger bed and private bath for 80 b. Area to wash clothes in back. Owners are a bit paranoid and untrusting of other Bolivians.
  • Hotel Heroinas**, Av. Heroinas O-239, 591-4-4220171. Clean hotel, cable TV, shared or private bath, very small continental breakfast. 65-135 b for 1-2 people. Owners are a little stingy and give you problems if you try to wash your clothes on their roof. Shared shower did not have a lock or space to hang dry clothes and towel. Rooms in the front of the hotel are noisy from traffic, rooms in the back of the hotel have windows facing other parts of the hotel and are not very private.

There are dozens and dozens of hotels and hostales between the bus terminal and the center (Av. Heroinas). This area is not perfectly safe late at night, however. The closer to the bus station, the worse it gets. Take a cab.

  • Hostal Elisa, Lopez S-834. Small, but neat rooms, around a cozy courtyard. Expensive internet. Single, shared bath, Bs 35, with bath Bs 70. Breakfast extra..  edit
  • Hostal Kanata, Ayacucho 941, is very close, has clean doubles for 60 Bs (20 Bs more for a TV), though a not too friendly staff.

[edit] Stay safe

Roving gangs of supposed glue sniffers are known to attack and rob people, especially at night. Stay on streets with ample pedestrian traffic.

[edit] Cope

  • The Punto Entel on the southeast corner of Heroinas and Ayacucho is probably the neatest and best equipped internet spot. The going rate is 2-3 Bs an hour.
  • Lavaya, Corner of Salamanca and Lanza (A block off Plaza Colon). 08:30 - 20:00. Same day laundry if you show up at opening time. 10 Bs per kilo.  edit
  • Lavanderia Brilliante, Av Aroma 118 (Between Ayachucho and Lopez). 7 AM - 10 PM. Wash and dry 7 Bs/kilo.  edit
  • A few exchange bureaus at the SW corner of Plaza 14 de Setiembre.
  • For visa extensions, head to Imigracion at Ballivian, naer corner of La Paz.

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