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Cochabamba

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Cochabamba, or simply Cocha, the fourth largest city in Bolivia, is located some 240km southeast of La Paz. The city, set on a plain surrounded by mountains, is known for its moderate climate and is often called Bolivia's "resort city". Other nicknames for Cochabamba include the "Garden City" and the "City of Eternal Spring".

Plaza 14 de Septiembre and the cathedral
Plaza 14 de Septiembre and the cathedral

[edit] Understand

[edit] Orientation

The main thoroughfare in Cochabamba is Avenida de las Heroinas, which runs east-west, with its north-south counterpart Avenida Ayacucho. The intersection of these two is known by its Correo. Plaza 14 de Septiembre is considered the center of the city. Avenida Ballivian, commonly called El Prado, is a tree-lined boulevard running north from Plaza Colon, with many of the city's better restaurants and hotels nearby. Generally, neighborhoods get more affluent towards the north, and poorer to the south.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Cochabamba's Jorge Wilstermann Airport connects well to other large cities in the country. If flying from La Paz, sit on the left side to get a stunning view of Mt. Illimani just off the wingtip. A taxi to the center of town from the airport is about Bs 25.

Most flights are handled by Aerosur[1], some by Brazilian TAM[2], and a few by Bolivia´s military airline, also named TAM.

[edit] By bus

The terminal is some 10 blocks south of the center, just north of the market called Cancha.

  • From La Paz, it's seven hours by bus to Cochabamba. Buses every hour, 30-60 Bs. A new highway is being constructed, which will reduce travel time by some 3 hours.
  • It's 10 hours by bus from Santa Cruz, 30 Bs.
  • Night buses to Sucre, 11 bumpy and cold hours, 40 Bs.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By bus

Cochabamba has buses (micros), mini-vans (trufis) and and shared cabs (taxi-trufis) that run along fixed routes. There are no set stops and in order to get off, you must say "me bajo" (I want to get off) or "esquina" (for stop at the corner). Fares are Bs. 1.50.

[edit] By taxi

Most cars honking at you are cabs. Ask and negotiate the fare before entering a cab. The price should be Bs. 4 for one person within the city center (inside the boundaries of the river). Adding additional passengers should cost between Bs. 1 and Bs. 2/person. Downtown to Quillacollo is 25-30 Bs.

[edit][add listing] See

Christo de la Concordia
Christo de la Concordia
  • Cristo de la Concordia. The statue is just a bit higher and larger than the one in Rio de Janeiro, - making it the world's largest statue of Jesus. It offers a great view of the city. Walk Calle Colombia until its eastern end, then a swift right: This park/playground is where the cable car goes from, 3 Bs each way. You can also walk, but stay in a group, as rumours has it robbers attack. Finally, taxi is always an option.
  • Simón I. Patiño Cultural Center (Centro Pedagógico y Cultural Simón I. Patiño) [3], Av. Potosí 1450. Includes the Palacio Portales mansion, gardens (Jardines), and an art museum (Centro de Arte Contemporáneo). The mansion was built by Patiño, a tin magnate who controlled over half of the nation's output in the 1930s. Guided tour Tue-Fri, 15:30, 16:30, 17:30 (Spanish), 16:00, 17:00 (English).
  • Museum of Natural History, Calle Potosi, Recoleta (Next door to Palacio Portales).  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

The city is Bolivia`s paragliding capital. Several agencies offer tandem flights (300 Bs) and courses. A typical beginner´s course will take minimum 10 days (2 hours theory and 4 hours practice every day, 12 solo flights) and cost about 3000 Bs. Among the cheapest on the continent.

  • AndeseXtremo [4][5] (Also has other outdoor activities)
  • Parapente Bolivia [6]

The biggest cinema in town, Cinecenter, features a handfull of showrooms mostly flashing the latest Holywood fare, and a food court. Just north of Plaza Quintanilla.

There are some towns around Cochabamba worth visiting:

  • Visit nearby Punata (market on Tuesday with a lot of indigenous people selling animals)
  • Visit nearby Tarata, nice picturesque town
  • Visit nearby Quillacollo for it's Fiesta de la Virgen de Urkupiña (August 15th)

Cochabamba is also a good point for excursions into the Chapare Region:

  • The non-profit organization Fundacion Delpia [7][8]"Fundacion para el desarrollo local de los pueblos indigenas amazonicos-andinos" organizes tours to the National Park Isiboro Sécure and visits to local indigenous communities (4-5 days). Visitors can choose to get either integrated into the daily life of the local families (fishing, cooking, hunting, sleeping in traditional hut etc) or touring the national park with an indigenous guide by foot or canoe (sleeping in tents)
  • Bolivia Tour [9] Green Toad Bus (Travel Peru and Bolivia by Bus), [10]. Ride the Toad! Travel your own way on Peru's only hop on hop off bus. We offer you greater freedom and flexibility as you backpack around Peru and Bolivia. The Green Toad Bus is a door-to-door service to the best hostels in the land, giving you the freedom to choose your own accommodation and food options, helping to cut costs as you travel. Choose to jump off in Cusco to do the Inca Trail, or Lake Titicaca to explore the culture on the islands, then simply jump on again to continue your exploration of magical Peru and Bolivia. The Green Toad Bus is designed for travelers who want choice as they travel. [11]  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

One of the city's biggest attractions is La Cancha, the city market on the south side of town and the largest open-air market in South America. Clothing, food, souvenirs, or books, the Cancha has it all. The market district spills out along Av. San Martin, which runs north from the Cancha to the center.

On the southeast corner of Ayacucho and Heroinas there's a slightly upscale market with lots of souvenir stalls.

La Cancha
La Cancha

[edit][add listing] Eat

Thanks to the city's origin as an agricultural center for mining communities, Cochabamba claims to have the best food in Bolivia.

  • Ceboro's, Calle Lanza (Between Jordán and Sucre). Mon-Sat, lunch and dinner. Seafood!! Main course 20 Bs.  edit
  • Don Corleone, Calle España (Between Ecuador and Mayor Rocha), 4255255. Evenings. Probably the best pizza in town. Big pizza Bs 50.  edit
  • Casablanca, Calle 25 de Mayo (Half a block from Plaza Colon). Varied menu influenced by the Italian owner. Also good for snacks and a few drinks. Main courses Bs. 30, pint of beer Bs. 9.  edit
  • Cristal, Av. de las Heroinas E-352 (Between 25 de Mayo and España). Very neat and clean. Good breakfasts 15-21 Bs, set lunch 16 Bs..  edit
  • Casa de Campo, Av. Uyuni 618, among other upscale restaurants in Recoleta. Good pique macho and other local dishes.
  • Sucremanta, Several locations: Plaza 14 de Septiembre, and on the Prado. Small but filling menu, -somewhat spicey. The Plaza branch, with live piano music on Sundays, is a great place for brunch. Try the hearty menudito.
  • Dumbo, Av. Heroinas E-0354, also El Prado 55. Bolivia's favorite family restaurant. The main joint on Heroinas is always packed, with four dining floors and enough dancers in animal suits to keep the entire juvenile population of Cochabamba entertained.
  • Meihua, SW corner of Plaza Colon. Lunch, dinner and in between.. Standard chinese. The entradas at around Bs 15 are full meals.  edit
  • Bufalo Rodizio, Meat dishes. Delicious. Avenida Oquendo N. 0654
  • Paprika, North American style dishes. Yummy hot wings. Avenida Ramon Rivero, on the corner of Lanza. Open in the evenings.
  • Brasilian Coffee, Av. Ballivian (Near Plaza Colon). Excellent Japanese food - sushi, sushimi, yakisoba etc. Excellent wifi connection available. Open almost 24x7.  edit

[edit] Fast Food

  • Eli´s, Corner of Colombia and 25 de Mayo, laso on Av. America. Inspired by North American joints. Pizza slices Bs 10-15, sandwich combos Bs 20.  edit
  • Kebbab - Las Mille y Uno Noches, (right next to Palacio Portales). A tasty reminder that South America isn't the only region known for huge cuts of meat roasted on spits. Great atmosphere thanks to the exotic paintings depicting the One Thousand and One Nights.
  • Globos, S end of El Prado (NE corner of Plaza Colon, also other locations.). Good icecream, many coffe-drinks, some cakes and burgers. Scoop 5 Bs, cup 20 Bs..  edit

[edit] Vegetarian

  • Tulasi, Av. Heroinas 270, seemingly without regular opening times.
  • Gopal, Calle Espana, Hot and cold Buffet lunch bet. 10-20bs., the homemade jugs of juice are delicious. Ordering off the menu is possible in the evening, but not as good. Beautiful open courtyard to sit in.

[edit][add listing] Drink

The best chicha, fermented corn (or peach) based beverage, is said to come from the Cochabamba region. The small town of Punata, some distance to the southwest, is especially well-known.

Most small bars are on 25 de Mayo and España close to Plaza Colon. Av. Ballivian (Prado) has bigger and noisier stuff. The joints grow fancier and more expensive has you head north into Recoleta, centred on Calle Pando.

  • Cafe Paris, NE corner of Plaza 14 de Septiembre (Corner of Bolivar and 25 de Mayo). European style. Coffees Bs 4-17.  edit
  • Cocafe, Calle Venezuela (Between España and 25 de Mayo). Small, cozy, well decorated. Leaves on offer. 0,6 l beer 10 Bs.  edit
  • Cerebrito, Calle España (Betwenn Colombia and Ecuador). Evenings. After school hangout for 18-25s. Star Wars decor. Rock music. Cheap dinners. Probably the most colourful range of shots in the country. Bottoms up! 1 l of beer 15 Bs.  edit
  • Panchos, Calle Mayor Rocha (Between España and 25 de Mayo). Starts out as a bar, turns into a club. Mostly latin music. 1 l beer Bs 15..  edit
  • Picasso´s, Calle España (Between Equador and Mayro Rocha). Nice warm up venue. Tables, bar, play dice. 1 l beer Bs 15.  edit
  • Marka, Calle Ecuador (Between España and 25 de Mayo). Until late. A courtyard with electronic music and a very mixed crowd. 0.6 l beer 10 Bs..  edit
  • Lujos, Calle Beni (Almost on the corner of Santa Cruz). Until sunrise on weekends. Full dance floor, mostly classics. Entry 10-15 Bs, pint of beer 10 Bs..  edit
  • Chernobil, Best place to drink Chicha in the Cochabamba region. It is in the town of Quillacollo just west of the city. Well know by the locals, the chicha is safe to drink and so is the food.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

  • Café Fusión, Calle España (between Ecuador and Mayro Rocha). Small, cosy café-bar, with a very friendly Italian owner. Great place to start the night. Cocktails 13-25Bs. Beer 13Bs. Does very good Italian dishes.  edit

[edit] Budget

  • Residencial Cristo de Concordia, Av. Aroma E-437 casi San Martin (Between Main Plaza and Bus Terminal), (4) 4257131 (), [12]. checkin: 12:00; checkout: 12:00. Good location, laundry service, helpful staff. Single/Double with bath 50/80 Bs..  edit
  • Hostal Sauna Internacional INN, Calle Junin (Between Mexico and Mayor Rocha), 452 5382. Good location, good breakfast. Rooms along the north wall heat up during the day and stay fairly warm through the night. The sauna is steaming Fri, Sat, Sun afternoons. Single/Double with bath 50/100 Bs..  edit
  • Hotel Los Angeles, Ave. Esteban Arze 345, (between Jordán and Sucre), 450-0800. Decent budget hotel in a good location. Singles Bs 70, doubles Bs 120, with bath and breakfast. It competes with the Hotel Las Vegas (similar prices and standard) across the street for the cheesiest norteamericano decor.
  • Hostal Buenos Aires, Calle 25 de Mayo 329 (Half a block from Plaza Colon), +591 4 425 3911 (, fax: +591 4 452 2719). Excellent location. Very thin walls. In-house restaurant. Single, shared bath 40 Bs, with bath 60 Bs..  edit
  • Residencia Familiar, Calle Sucre E-554, 422-7988-450-4609. Three blocks from Plaza 14 de Septiembre and two blocks from Avenida Heroinas. Clean room with two beds and shared bath 60b. Larger bed and private bath for 80 b. Area to wash clothes in back. Owners are a bit paranoid and untrusting of other Bolivians.
  • Hostal Jardin, Calle Hamiraya N-0258 (Between Equador and Colombia), 4525356. Fairly quiet, some long-termers, popular among Brazilians. You might share water pressure with you neighbours. Safe parking. And, yes, there is a garden here. Single, shared bath, 25 Bs, with bath 40 Bs..  edit
  • Bolivia-Online.net [13] Listing of hotels and hostels in Cochabamba with description, prices, fotos, map and direct contact

There are dozens and dozens of hotels and hostales between the bus terminal and the center (Plaza 14 de Septiembre). This area is not very safe late at night, however. The closer to the bus station, the worse it gets. Take a cab.

  • Hostal Elisa, Lopez S-834. Small, but neat rooms, around a cozy courtyard. Expensive internet. Single, shared bath, Bs 35, with bath Bs 70. Breakfast extra..  edit
  • Hostal Kanata, Ayacucho 941, has clean doubles for 60 Bs (20 Bs more for a TV), though a not too friendly staff.

[edit] Splurge

The upper end hotels are mostly concentrated within a block or two from Plaza Colon. Expect to pay upwards of Bs 150 for a single. Also many classy hotels in Recoleta.

[edit] Stay safe

  • Roving gangs of supposed glue sniffers are known to attack and rob people, especially at night. Stay on streets with ample pedestrian traffic.
  • The hill of the Coronilla (behind the bus terminal) is also not safe because it is often deserted and many have been robbed here.
  • Robbers also operate from cars, particularly cabs, late at night. Stay alert if one stops right in front of you. Cross the street!
  • On the stairs of the hill "Cerro de San Pedro" have been robberies, some during the day. Take a taxi or the teleferico (cable cars) to the top.

[edit] Contact

  • The Punto Entel on the southeast corner of Heroinas and Ayacucho is probably the neatest and best equipped internet spot. The going rate is 2-3 Bs an hour.
  • Calls to landlines in Europe and North America can be had as low as 0,50 Bs a minute. Shop around!
  • The internet/callshop at Av. Heroinas E0151 (Near the corner of Ayacucho) is good for Skype.

[edit] Cope

  • Lavaya, Corner of Salamanca and Lanza (A block off Plaza Colon). 08:30 - 20:00. Same day laundry if you show up at opening time. 10 Bs per kilo.  edit
  • Lavanderia Brilliante, Av Aroma 118 (Between Ayachucho and Lopez). 7 AM - 10 PM. Several others on the same block. Wash and dry 7 Bs/kilo.  edit
  • Laundry at Calle Junin, between Heroinas and Bolivar. Wash and Dry 7 Bs/kilo. 8AM-12 2PM-7.
  • A few exchange bureaus at the SW corner of Plaza 14 de Setiembre.
  • Many street money changers, particularly at Cancha, if you are willing to risk it.
  • For visa extensions, head to Imigracion at Ballivian 720, near the corner of La Paz.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!