Cienfuegos is the only city in Cuba that was founded by the French. As a result, it feels a little different than other Cuban cities, with wider streets. There are two main areas of interest to tourists; Pueblo Nuevo, the city centre; and Punta Gorda, a peninsula with lots of 1950's homes. It's a nice place to visit for a day or two, but after that, you might run out of things to do.
The two daily Viazul  buses between Havana and Trinidad stop at Cienfuegos, as does the daily bus between Varadero, Santa Clara, and Trinidad. This last bus arrives from Varadero heading for Trinidad at noon, and arrives from Trinidad heading for Varadero at 4:00pm (it is missing from the Viazul website). Travellers heading east and wishing to catch the 8:00am Viazul bus from Trinidad to Santiago de Cuba can sometimes arrange for an early morning minivan through Viazul. Ask at the bus station.
There are two trains that run from Havana: a very slow daytime train (every second day) that returns the following day, and a somewhat faster late-evening train (every second day) that operates via Matanzas and returns overnight. Trains may also leave for Santa Clara (very) early in the morning and return in the evening, and leave for Santa Clara and Sancti Spiritus in the afternoon, returning the following morning. Check that the trains are running in advance.
Jaime González Airport has three flights a week: leaving Miami at 8am Mondays and Fridays, returning 10:45am; and leaving Miami 5:30pm Wednesdays and returning later in the evening (8pm?). A roundtrip ticket is $509. The airline is a charter. The telephone number is (800) 493 8426, the website is http://www.destinationcuba.com/.
Both the centre and Punta Gorda are easy of walk around, but are about 3km apart. They are joined by Calle 37 (del Prado), which runs by the sea. If you don't fancy walking, the principle public transportation is coches or horse-drawn carts that seat 6 or 8 people. They go up and down Calle 37. The price is 1 CUP for Cubans or 1 CUC for tourists.
Tienda Artex, Av 54 (the Boulevar, the pedestrian street) e/ calles 33 y 35 (two blocks west of Parque Marti). Good shopping for gifts, such as shower curtains printed with paintings from the Museo Bellas Artes.edit
Yacht Club. Quite touristy but pleasant to eat in the formal restaurant upstairs or the informal snack bar in the basement.
Palatino, Av 54 e/ calles 25 y 27 (south side of Parque Marti). Nice, quiet restaurant for lunch. The grilled tuna salad sandwiches are delicious!edit
La Finca del Mar - Café Restaurant. Calle 35 e/18 y 20, Punta Gorda. Tel: (53)(43)526598. Run by the incredibly friendly Familia Alvarez, you'll find both the setting and the food delightful. If you're looking for a relaxing dinner, good cocktails or the best breakfast in town, this is the place to be. Take a cycle rickshaw down towards Punta Gorda and turn right onto Av. 18, which you take till you reach the water.
Benny More. A nightclub which features Salsa Music and dancing.
Palacio. Adjacent to the Hotel Jagua south of the Malecon, this is an amazing building, lavishly decorated in Moorish style. There is a fairly standard fare restaurant, but it is worth climbing to the rooftop bar for a drink sitting under an arched gazebo looking over the city and the harbour.
Hotel Faro Luna. Staying at the Faro Luna is like being at your own villa, only 25-30 rooms a beautiful pool overlooking the Caribbean and attentive staff.
Hotel Jagua. This is a large hotel to the south of the city, around 2km from the city centre. The building itself is a square concrete block and fairly unattractive. However, the rooms and facilities are pretty good by Cuban standards. For cheap water and drinks, visit the shop outside the hotel, opposite the entrance, rather than the hotel shop itself and pay half the price.
Hotel Pascacaballo. This is a big, modern resort-hotel at Rancho Luna, on the coast, opposite Castillo de Jagua. Lunch was awful, unless you like jello and canned vegetables. The hotel looked like it was maybe a quarter full.
Inés María Calle 41 #5601, between 56 and 58. Tel: (53) (43) 513788. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org . This two-room casa is conveniently located, close to both the center and the Viazul bus station. It is beautifully furnished and it has a very nice terrace on the top floor from which one can see the city. But its best feature are the nice people that live there. Do not miss the opportunity to try the delicious food that they cook there at request. Includes aircon and hot water.
La Colonial Calle 33 #5605 Altos, e/56 y 58. Tel: (53)(43)525502. Once you press the buzzer of this centrally located casa, the door will automatically open, rather eerily. But walking up the stairs will bring you into the home of a very kind and helpful family. The rooms are basic but clean, and the sweetness of the older woman who runs the place is infectious.
Teresita y YhanesAve 52 Nr. 4323 e/43 y 45, Tel. (053) (043) 517646 Very nice central place with very helpful owners. Depending on season from 15 CUC per room.
Sr. Jose Luis Alvarez Leon y Sra. Beatriz Ortega Turiño. Ave. 60 No. 3301 e/ 33 y 35, Tel. (053) (043) 528535 independent apartment with kitchen and all commodies. The owner of the housemakes really good food as well.
Casa de Nadia Hernández Garcia. Ave 16 #4307 Altos (upstairs) e/ (between) calles 43 y 45 (streets). Nice location in Punta Gorda, big room with a refrigerator, air conditioner, and bathroom. Very nice family. Good food and laundry. 25 CUC, plus 4 CUC for breakfast and 10 CUC for dinner. Plus Nadia is a lawyer if you need legal advice!
Before 2003 Cienfuegos had a reputation for teenage prostitutes. Girls would skip school to go to the airport three times a week for the flights from Canada and meet Canadian men. Beginning in 2003 the police cracked down on prostitution and now Cienfuegos has a reputation for the most vigorous anti-prostitution police patrolling in Cuba (and there are no longer flights from Canada). After dark be careful at nightclubs, restaurants, or on the streets; simply asking an innocent young woman for directions could get her arrested. Don't bring a Cuban guest into your casa unless she signs the guest book; several home owners lost their homes because tourists brought "girlfriends" home for the night. If a woman is arrested twice in a year for being with a tourist she is fined. If she's arrested three times she goes to prison for four years. (Tourists are usually not arrested or punished.)
Santa Clara. Take a day trip to Santa Clara, approx 1 hour away, to visit the museum and resting place of Che Guevara.
Delfinario. There is an dolphin show at Rancho Luna, south of Cienfuegos, near Castillo de Jagua. Shows are daily 10am and 2pm, tickets are 10 CUC. The show has audience participation, for example, a dance contest for kids where the winners get kisses from the dolphins. You can also swim with the dolphins for about 50 CUC.
Castillo de Jagua. This is an 18th-century fortress built to protect Cienfuegos against (English) pirates. There's an abandoned nuclear power plant behind the castle, built by the Soviets but never finished.