Logan Square is an expansive neighborhood with sweeping boulevards on Chicago's West Side. It shares a wealth of dive bars and cheap rock venues with Bucktown, which becomes a high-fashion destination when close to Wicker Park.
The area now known as Logan Square was born in the boomtown days of the 1830s, when schoolteacher Martin Kimbell rejected a plot in the obviously going-nowhere Loop in favor of good, solid farmland about five miles northwest. The area remained independent from the city until temptations like water and fire departments became too much to resist, and in 1889, Chicago took over. (The streets were upgraded, but they were also renamed — most cruelly, "Kimbell" became "Kimball".)
And if you were a goat farmer in the city around that time, Bucktown was the place to be. You knew that you were in a place that understood the importance of goats, and that any goats you owned would be in good company. As home to farms, factories, and immigrants who were employed by them, Bucktown never developed any major tourist attractions, but it did support plenty of bars for discussions of issues both goat-related and non-goat-related, and that preponderance of cheap bars is still intact.
Logan Square, on the other hand, was named for the Civil War hero Gen. John A. Logan, and its tree-lined boulevards — one of which bears his name — are what really set the neighborhood apart from its neighbors, offering wide-open spaces for leisurely trawls by cars, bikes, and pedestrians alike. (Fittingly, Ignaz Schwinn, founder of the Schwinn bicycle company, settled in Logan Square.) The neighborhood became a destination for immigrants who'd struck it rich in Chicago, and they helped build the beautiful housing stock that survives today, even after the business district collapsed in the 1950s.
It's those magnificent graystones and richly detailed brick classics that draw waves of new residents to Logan Square today. Right now, it's the best of both worlds: murals and community gardens decorate the streets, and new residents kick portions of their salaries to businesses run by older ones, enjoying authentic taquerias on wide, sunny boulevards that are (mostly) rich with gritty, urban character and (generally) safe.
Despite the critical shortage of goats at present, the chameleon-like Bucktown prospers from proximity to Wicker Park, with retail and restaurants that take their cues from the hipster paradise to its south, rough-and-tumble spots that resemble Logan on the other side, and new condos not dissimilar to Lincoln Park to the east. Bucktown is less notable than Logan Square in terms of looks, with a lot of same-y new construction hurried up to meet housing demand, but it also has some great bars and essential music venues with nightly bills of jazz, scuzz and genius.
I-90/94, also known as the Kennedy Expressway, runs close to Logan Square and Bucktown. Diversey Avenue is the main exit for the neighborhood. Street parking is usually not a problem in Logan Square, but check for permit-only parking on side streets — the posted hours are a bit weird, and cops go on ticket binges every once in a while. Logan Boulevard itself usually offers plentiful open parking, though.
Our Lady of the Underpass
Few drivers would consider the Kennedy Expressway sacred ground, but in 2005, what many believed to be an image of the Virgin Mary appeared on the wall of the Fullerton Avenue underpass. Divine revelation or water damage, the image attracted fervent devotion from local Catholics, who have diligently protected it from defacement attempts in the years since. If you'd like to decide for yourself, the spot is easy to find — look for the flowers, candles, and a few worshipers lost in prayer, especially in the morning.
One of Logan Square's most celebrated features is Logan Boulevard itself, which is lined with century-old, show-of-wealth mansions. For an easy walking tour, start west of the I-90/94 underpass, and walk west to the Illinois Centenary Memorial Column, veering off to walk south on Kedzie for a few more blocks of the same. They're enjoyable by sight alone on a sunny day, but community groups like Logan Square Preservation  hold occasional guided tours and garden walks.
Covenant Presbyterian Church, 2012 W Dickens Ave, ☎ +1 773 486-9590, . Su 9AM, 10:45AM. This Presbyterian church is housed in the former Cathedral of All Saints of the Polish National Catholic Church in Chicago. A historic church building, its interior decor is painted in a style imitating Master Cracovian painter Stanisław Wyspiański, while the nave is lined with depictions of the historic crests of Polish cities.edit
Illinois Centenary Memorial Column, Milwaukee Ave, Logan Blvd, and Kedzie Ave (Logan Square Blue Line). Not a sight to seek out, but it’s hard to miss — this column was erected in 1918 to celebrate the hundredth anniversary of Illinois’ statehood, and topped with an eagle to show the committee members weren’t messing around. It’s out of step with the rest of the neighborhood now, but hey, only a few more years until it’s time for an update!edit
John Rath House, 2703 W Logan Blvd. Nestled among the mansions of Logan Boulevard, this 1907 Prairie School house by George Maher makes a nice contrast with its elegant lines and lack of Euro mish-mash.edit
Palmer Square Park, 3100 W Palmer Blvd (Kedzie Ave, Humboldt Blvd, and Palmer St), ☎ +1 773 227-3535. Designed by William LeBaron Jenney, designer to the (Victorian) stars, and a lovely job at that — with plenty of trees, shade, and green space. When New Belgium brewery brought its Tour de Fat to Chicago in 2008, it chose beautiful Palmer Square.edit
St. Mary of the Angels, 1850 N Hermitage Ave, ☎ +1 773 278-2644, . Masses M-F 7AM & 5:30PM, Sa 8AM &5PM, Su 8AM, 9:30AM Polish, 11AM, 12:30PM Spanish, 7:15PM; church hours M-F 8AM-4PM, Sa 8AM-6:30PM, Su 8AM-8:30PM. One of the city's most beautiful churches, this classic Polish Cathedral is now administered by the priests of the Opus Dei order of Catholicism.edit
The best reason to visit Bucktown and Logan Square is the music scene, which includes several bars — see also the below.
Congress Theater, 2135 N Milwaukee Ave (Western Blue Line), ☎ +1 312 458-9668, . Opened in 1926 and still adorned with gorgeous terra cotta, the semi-decrepit Congress Theater is now home to the twin powers of Mexican wrestling and indie rock of an occasionally exceptional caliber. It's standing room only on the floor, but there is first-come first-serve seating in the balcony.Shows $10-25. edit
Diversey River Bowl, 2211 W Diversey Ave (76 Diversey bus from Logan Square Blue Line or Diversey Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 227-5800, . Su-F 12PM-2AM, Sa Sept-May 9AM-3AM, summer 12PM-3AM. Never mind the bollocks, it's the Rock 'n Bowl. 36 lanes ensure that you won't be crowded out by league play, although there can be a long wait on weekends. The music and staff are great, pitchers of beer (cheap and classy) and pizza (greasy and, uh, greasy) are available, and old-school arcade games and photo-booths help pass the wait, and it's smoke-free.M-Th $19/hr per lane, but only $1 per game noon-5PM; F-Sa $32/hr per lane, $39/hr 6PM-close. edit
Fireside Bowl, 2648 W Fullerton Ave (California Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 486-2700, . M-F 4PM-2AM, Sa 2PM-3AM, Su 2PM-midnight. Shows on Sunday nights.. There are better places to bowl and much better places to see live music, but this is hallowed ground for the teen punk of the '80s and '90s, when the Fireside was a cheap, all-ages venue punk, hardcore, emo, and more. It's definitely not that any more — not surprisingly, neighborhood residents were never fond of the noise and the youth, and the owner found it easier to survive as a straight bowling alley.Lanes $3.50 a game/$20 per hour. edit
Gorilla Tango Theater, 1919 N Milwaukee Ave (Western Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 598-4549, . Not many places in Chicago can match Gorilla Tango for sheer quantity — even on cold, quiet Wednesday nights, you'll find two unknown theater companies doing low-budget comedies at this Bucktown storefront theater. The end results may be scattershot, but the energy is usually high and the titles alone will liven up any story about what you did on your trip.$10-18. edit
Logan Square Auditorium, 2359 N Kedzie Ave (Logan Square Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 252-6179, . It's under-utilized on weeknights, but this ballroom-with-a-liquor-license hosts weekend rock shows and the occasional label showcase for mainstays of Chicago music like Thrill Jockey.Tickets $10-20. edit
Logan Square Skate Park, 2430 W Logan Blvd (Western Blue Line). Ten ramps and half-pipes, benches, an asphalt surface, and a drinking fountain. It's under the I-90/94 overpass.edit
Logan Theatre, 2646 N Milwaukee Ave (Logan Square Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 252-0627. Opened in 1915 with 975 seats and still showing movies today, although it has since been carved up into four screens for second-run Hollywood fare.$4. edit
Whirlyball, 1880 W Fullerton Ave (74 Fullerton bus), ☎ +1 773 486-7777, . M-F 10AM-2AM, Sa noon-3AM, Su noon-2AM. An entertainment center with two fine ways to burn off steam: the title game, which adds the bumper cars that Native Americans always meant lacrosse to have, and laser tag. Packages are available with beer and bar food.Walk-ins $10 for 30 minutes (minimum four people) for whirlyball, $6 per person per 15 minutes for laser tag. edit
There are two main shopping areas in Bucktown. The first is near the intersection of Milwaukee, Damen, and North Avenue, right at the border of Wicker Park, where you’ll find small, independent stores and boutiques. However, for the big-box experience, drive up to Damen and Elston, where a couple of strip malls offer major retailers and plenty of parking.
The Red Balloon, 2060 N Damen Ave, ☎ +1 773 489-9800, . M-W,F-Sa 10AM-6PM, Th 10AM-6:30PM, Su noon-5PM. Fun, original clothes, furniture, and toys for kids — if you'd like to get your child's life started right, you'll know the value of a magnetized wooden pirate ship (complete with crew and monkey).edit
The six corners of Diversey, Milwaukee, and Kimball mark the center of the old retail district in Logan Square. It's an odd sight to see national chains like The Gap shoehorned into old art deco facades. The nearby Mega Mall (2500 N Milwaukee Ave) is gigantic, and when it's open, it's home to a dense jumble of stalls that has been compared to a third-world bazaar, chock full of cheap, shady merchandise. Health-code violations kept it closed for a while, and recently a fire brought commerce (as it was) to a halt.
Disco City Records, 2630 N Milwaukee Ave (Logan Square Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 486-1495. One of the premier Latin music stores in Chicago, with a long rack of new releases, DVDs, and Spanish musical instruments (mainly bongos).edit
G-Mart, 2641 N Kedzie Ave (Logan Square Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 384-0400, . M-Tu,Th,Sa noon-7PM, W,F noon-8PM, Su noon-6PM. If you need a comic book fix, G-Mart is the place. They carry titles from major and indie publishers alike, sold by a gonzo sales crew.edit
Threads, Etc., 2327 N Milwaukee Ave (California Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 276-6411, . M-Sa 11AM-7PM, Su 11AM-5PM. A nearly warehouse-sized resale store, covering two floors. There's more furniture than anything else, but there should be some good finds on any given day amid the intriguing clutter.edit
Wolfbait & B-Girls, 3131 W Logan Blvd (Logan Square Blue Line), ☎ +1 312 698-8685, . M-Sa 10AM-7PM, Su 10AM-4PM. Clothes and jewelry for women, with everything designed, handmade, and sold in Chicago.edit
Arturo's Tacos, 2001 N Western Ave (Western Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 772-4944, . 24 hours daily. The cheap late-night food of choice among trendy chefs and bar-goers alike in Bucktown, right outside the Blue Line. (Or is it Lazo's? See below.)edit
El Charro, 2410 N Milwaukee Ave (California Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 278-2514. 24 hours daily. There is no reason to seek out El Charro during the day, but if you're drinking in Logan Square, you need to know where the all-night Mexican food can be found. The soothing aqua walls and the steadfast Ms. Pac-Man machine don't hurt, either.edit
Lazo's Tacos, 2009 N Western Ave (Western Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 486-3303. 24 hours daily. If you're not one to stay neutral in a hotly-debated issue, you'll want to declare a loyalty between Lazo's and Arturo's for taco supremacy of this street. Both are cheap, but consider carefully: locals take this question very seriously.edit
Margie's Candies, 1960 N Western Ave (Western Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 384-1035. Su-Th 9AM-midnight, F-Sa 9AM-1AM. There's an argument to be made for putting Margie's at the top of the list of things to do and see in this article; thankfully, the Blue Line and two bus lines converge at this holy ice cream shop, founded in 1921. There's diner food as well if you need "dinner" to justify the frenzy.$3-6. edit
Buono Terra, 2535 N California Ave (California Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 289-3800, . Tu-Th 5-10PM, F-Sa 5-11PM, Su 4-9PM. Great Italian restaurant in Logan Square.$14-20; Thursday night prix fixe dinner for $20. edit
Cafe Bolero, 2252 N Western Ave (Western Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 227-9000, . Su-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-midnight. Cuban restaurant that excels in both food and style, with appetizers that complement the main dishes quite well. There's live Latin jazz a couple of nights each week, and an upstairs bar for mojitos.$12-20. edit
El Cid, 2645 N Kedzie Ave (Logan Square Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 395-0505. Su-Th 9AM-midnight; F-Sa 9AM-2AM. Pretty good Mexican food in Logan Square. The outdoor seating is especially nice, well away from the street rather like sitting in someone's backyard.edit
Fat Willy's Rib Shack, 2416 W Schubert Ave, ☎ +1 773 782-1800, . Su-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F-Sa 11:30AM-11PM. Pulled pork sandwiches and southern-style BBQ in Logan Square.Sandwiches about $10, half-orders of ribs about $16. edit
Taqueria Moran, 2226 N California Ave (California Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 235-2663. 5AM-10PM daily. Easy to find, this taqueria is roomy and has a bit of old-style diner class, perfect for breakfast chilaquiles and solid for Mexican lunch and dinner standards.$9-17. edit
Toast, 2046 N Damen Ave (Damen Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 772-5600, . M-F 8AM-3PM, Sa-Su 8AM-4PM. Popular Bucktown brunch spot. There are some clever and unique creations on the menu alongside breakfast standards, best topped with a tall glass of their tasty orange juice.$12-16. edit
Bonsoiree Cafe and Delicacies, 2728 W Armitage Ave, ☎ +1 773 486-7511, . Tu-Th 5PM-10PM, F 5PM-11PM, Su 5PM-9PM. Closed$85-150. edit
Le Bouchon, 1858 N Damen Ave, ☎ +1 773 862-6600, . Lunch M-Sa 11:30AM-2:30PM, dinner M-Th 5:30PM-10PM, F-Sa 5PM-11PM, Su closed. In Bucktown. Small, funky bistro with a limited but excellent menu of standard French fare. For peak dining hours you will need a reservation. Reasonably priced. Monday is 1/2-price wine night, and on Tuesday the entire menu is prix fixe – your choice of appetizer, main course, and dessert for$22. edit
Lula Cafe, 2537 N Kedzie Ave (Logan Square Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 489-9554, . Su-M,W-Th 9AM-midnight, F-Sa 9AM-1AM, Tu closed. A very popular neighborhood restaurant, serving an eclectic mix of new inventions and creatively remixed standards. Because of its popularity, lines can be really long on Friday and Saturday nights.$16-30; Monday Night Farm Dinner $24 per person. edit
The Rockinghorse, 2535 N Milwaukee Ave(at Sacramento Ave) Chicago, IL 60647 (Logan SQ Blue Line), ☎ +1 (773) 486-0011. Su-F 11AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-2AM. Has a darker, a little bit punk, cozy-ish feel with great drinks and nice beer on tap. Yummy apps and decent price. edit
Dunlays on the Square, 3137 W. Logan Blvd. Chicgao, IL 60647 (Logan Sq. Blue Line), ☎ +1 773.227.2400, . DINING ROOM Sunday: 10:00am - 11pm Monday: 4:30pm - 12am Tuesday - Thursday: 11:30am - 12am Friday: 11:30am - 1am Saturday: 10:00am - 1am BAR Sunday: 10:00am - 12am Monday: 4:30pm - 2am Tuesday - Friday: 11:30am - 2am Saturday: 10:00am - 3am. Beautiful bar, comfortable booths, good beer & great food (even for the veggies out there!) edit
Bob Inn, 2609 W Fullerton Ave, ☎ +1 773 342-2309. Su-F 11AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM. Good place to watch a baseball game with a cheap beer...as long as you're a White Sox fan. Otherwise, it's a good place to relax and wish you were a regular.edit
The Burlington, 3425 W Fullerton Ave, ☎ +1 773 384-3243, . 7PM-2AM daily. This, on the other hand, is definitely a Cubs bar, with plasma screens for the games and lovingly engineered old-man ambiance. When baseball isn't on, music becomes the foremost concern; it's too crowded for a dance floor, but DJs are usually on by 10PM.edit
Green Eye Lounge, 2403 W Homer St (Western Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 227-8851, . M-F 3PM-2AM, Sa 12PM-3AM, Su 12PM-2AM. Just off Western and Milwaukee. The owners of the Green Eye Lounge are experts in the art of the neighborhood bar — see also Lemming's below and the Blind Robin in Ukrainian Village. There's no stress, the beer selection is good, and there are board games.edit
Helen's Two-Way Lounge, 2988 W Fullerton Ave (California Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 227-5676. An exemplary dive bar in the fine tradition of such; cheap beer, wood-paneled walls, and regulars who are settled in for the night and have been for the last couple of decades. With the changing demographics of the area, it's possible that hipsters might outnumber the men with more tenured mustaches on any given night, but it's still a fine neighborhood dive.edit
Lemming's, 1850 N Damen Ave (Damen Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 862-1688, . M-F 4PM-2AM, Sa noon-3AM, Su noon-2AM. Comfortable neighborhood bar with local art to be seen and games (board & video) to be played. Look for the "Lemming's" sign by day and the "Schlitz" by night.edit
The Map Room, 1949 N Hoyne Ave, ☎ +1 773 252-7636, . M-F 6:30AM-2AM, Sa 7:30AM-3AM, Su 11AM-2AM. Their motto is "Don't be lost," but you may as well give in to their disorienting collection of exotic beers. Their tap selection is one of the more extensive in the city, with surprises for even the most jaded beer drinker: extensive draught and bottle menu, including a cask-conditioned selection, but occasionally unfriendly management.edit
Revolution Brewing, 2323 N Milwaukee Ave (California Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 227-2739, . M-F 11AM-2AM, Sa-Su 10AM-2AM. If you're a fan of craft beers and the art of brewing, this is a must visit. Owned and operated by a team of experienced local brewers, Revolution has 25 original beers on tap with seasonal additions throughout the year. There's a pretty good brunch menu as well.edit
Whirlaway Lounge, 3224 W Fullerton Ave, ☎ +1 773 276-6809, . Su-F 4PM-2AM, Sa 4PM-3AM. Whirlaway is run by the much-adored Maria, with decor that makes you feel as though you're drinking in the basement of Logan Square's collective unconsciousness's dad's house. (In less abstract terms, that's cheap beer, free popcorn, close quarters, and rock on the jukebox.)edit
Not far away, although a little difficult to find, the The Hideout (just east of Wicker Park) is definitely worth seeking out for live music.
Charleston, 2076 N Hoyne Ave, ☎ +1 773 489-4757, . M-F 3PM-2AM, Sa-Su 2PM-2AM. An old-time Bucktown joint with a big selection of reasonably priced beer and an impressive antique wood bar. There's a Jazz Jam every Tuesday night, and rock/folk/jazz shows most Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.edit
Cole's, 2338 N Milwaukee Ave, ☎ +1 773 276-5802, . M-F 5:30PM-2AM, Sa 3:30PM-3AM, Su 4PM-2AM. Laid-back neighborhood bar with a good selection of microbrews and free local music events scattered throughout the week.edit
Danny's Tavern, 1951 W Dickens Ave, ☎ +1 773 489-6457. Su-F 7PM-2AM, Sa 7PM-3AM. This is a good place to dance for most of the week, thanks to a talented group of DJs who spin pop, hip-hop, jazz and soul (including the occasional all-Smiths night). Wednesday nights (once a month, 7:30PM) go literary with Danny's Reading Series and the No Slander poetry and fiction nights . edit
Green Dolphin Street, 2200 N Ashland Ave, ☎ +1 773 395-0066, . M 10PM-4AM. Formerly a swanky jazz venue, this out-of-the-way club is now open only on Mondays for their highly reputed house music night, Boom Boom Room. Be sure to call ahead (or use their website) for a place on the guest list.Cover $10. edit
Hotti Biscotti, 3545 W Fullerton Ave, ☎ +1 773 772-9970. Tu-Sa 10AM-2AM. You just want coffee, but your friend wants a $2 beer; there are some issues the two of you need to settle via Scrabble, but you'd like to hear some live music. Happily, there is a place in Logan Square for you. Rock, films, and performance art figure into the schedule; Tuesdays are jazz nights.edit
The Mutiny, 2428 N Western Ave (Western Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 486-7774, . M 1PM-2AM, Tu-F,Su 11AM-2AM, Sa 9AM-3AM. A cavernous dive that hosts a lot of three/four band punk and rock shows, with occasional comedy nights as well. Check out the ceiling tiles painted by regulars.No cover, even for bands, and the frosty pitchers of beer are cheap. edit
Quenchers Saloon, 2401 N Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 276-9730, . Su-F 11AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM. 200 different beers from around the world, 60 different whiskeys, and a decent bar menu. Everyone drinks together at this comfortable neighborhood bar. There's live music every night except Sunday, mostly jazz with some rock and DJs on the weekends.edit
Ronny's, 2101 N California Ave (California Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 278-7170, . In some ways, Ronny's is the heir to the Fireside's punk mantle — shows are dirt cheap, the management don't care, and two of the four bands will be asking around for a place to sleep after the show. It's not all-ages, though.Most shows $5. edit
Rosa's Lounge, 3420 W Armitage Ave (Armitage Ave (2000 N) & Kimball Ave (3400 W)), ☎ +1 773 342-0452, . Doors open 8pm ~Shows: Tue-Thu-Fri 9:30PM, Sat 10PM. Most shows $7-20. edit
If you're only here for a show and the options in Wicker Park are too steep, you could commute from the hotel cluster by O'Hare Airport on the Blue Line.
Milshire Hotel, 2525 N Milwaukee Ave (California Blue Line), ☎ +1 773 384-7611. Make no mistake — this is a dive. It's also a very cheap one, and deceptively well-located (a few minutes' walk from the Blue Line in Logan Square, right on the Milwaukee bus line). Don't hand over any money until you see the room, but if you're on a budget and up for a Lou Reed hotel experience, this could work for a night.Rooms with shared bath $30-43, private bath $48, no children permitted. edit
The following libraries provide free internet access:
Bucktown/Wicker Park Library, 1701 N Milwaukee Ave (Damen Blue Line), ☎ +1 312 744-6022. M,W noon-8PM, Tu,Th 10AM-6PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM. Brand new library one block north of the North/Milwaukee/Damen intersection.edit
Both neighborhoods are reasonably safe, with standard precautions taken for an urban environment. Stay close to the bright lights after dark, and if you’ve had a lot to drink, use the money you saved on cheap beer for a taxi back to your hotel.