Surrounded on three sides by dense jungle, Capurganá is the last town of any reasonable size on the Colombian Caribbean coast before the border with Panama. A sleepy little place with a laid-back atmosphere, it is popular with Colombians, but is only just starting to put in an appearance on the Gringo trail; mainly because it is the last place on the coast with a DAS office where you can get stamped out of Colombia.
If you are passing through, Capurganá is a great place to spend a few days relaxing and savouring one of the few places left with no cars (there are no roads to Capurganá, so the only form of land-based transport there are horses or bicycles). It has a couple of small beaches (although with strong currents, so take care when swimming), and is a great place for snorkelling.
There are numerous hotels and restaurants scattered throughout the place, so there are plenty of options for the budget traveller (who are likely to arrive on the perhaps bone-shaking launches from Puerto Obaldia or Turbo), as well as more up-market choices for those who can afford to fly in.
This town is more civilized than it sounds like from some Internet sources: There is cell phone connectivity (Claro and Movistar). The reports in Lonely Planet, that you can get cash using your VISA card from a tourist agency on the main street, are not strictly true, they only give you a cash allowance per day if you stay at their hotel. There is an ATM in Acandi a short boatride from Capurgana costing COP $20,000 one way, but the ATM is not always working, so you are advised to bring cash in Colombian Pesos for your stay. There are many ATMs in Turbo. There are no banks but there are several places where you can do COP-USD currency exchange, for Euros you may have problems changing them (or a bad exchange rate). If you have a Bancolombia account you can withdraw or deposit COP at an agency.
Compared with the mainland (Turbo/Medellin/etc) everything is more expensive here, as everything needs to be taken in by boat. List price is Carrots 3,000COP/kg, 1L water bottle 1,500COP.
Capurganá has an airstrip and tiny airport, from which a company provides charter flights from Medellín ADA no longer flies to Capurgana, they fly to Acandi instead:
A plate at a basic cantine seems to be 10,000COP or so. There may be someone selling some fried potato meat thing for 1,000 COP in the evening.
Several places provide internet services.
There are launches to Turbo leaving everymorning (55,000 COP). There is an office selling tickets on the sea front where you can reserve your ticket the day before. Launches to Puerto Obaldia depart at 7am and 1pm daily (25,000 COP) presuming there's at least three passengers (*most* days also in low seazon this is the case for the one at 7am) and private boats can be hired (100,000 COP). If the office is closed, ask around to find Marcelino, almost everyone will be able to point you to the right person. Days when the plane is coming to Puerto Obaldia, the boat leaves early enough so that you can make the connection with the plane on the same day, you don t need to travel a day before and spend a night there as it s not very tourist orientated.
There are boats to Sapzurro every day (7,000 COP).
It is also possible to arrange launches to La Miel, further along the Colombian coast.
It is possible to walk over the mountain to the town of Sapzurro on the border with Panamá, with an almost perfect circular bay. While nice, at least around August this walk is really sweaty, so take off unnecessary tshirts already at beginning of walk. The walk is approx 1.5hrs, and the walk back feels slightly easier than the walk to there.