Beirut

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harbour
harbour
City skyline: from harbor
City skyline: from harbor

Beirut is the capital city of Lebanon with a population of approximately 2.1 million people in its metropolitan area. The city is located on a relatively small headland jutting into the east Mediterranean. It is by far the biggest city in Lebanon. Due to Lebanon's small size the capital has always held the status as the only true cosmopolitan city in the country, and ever since the independence, has been the commercial and financial hub of Lebanon. 20km to its North is Jounieh, a city very closely associated with Beirut.

[edit] Districts

The heart of Beirut, Downtown, should be the starting point of any visit, as it lies roughly in the center of the city; from there one can explore the surrounding areas. The commercial area of Beirut is rather small, making all major points of interest within short walking distances. The best pocket map you can get is called BeirutMap[1] which is available free of charge in all hotels as well as all Virgin Megastores branches around Beirut.

Charles Helou Station lies approximately one kilometer east of Nejmeh Square, on Charles Helou Avenue, facing the Beirut Port. From there you can take the city buses or hop onto the larger coaches that link Beirut with the neighboring cities.

As of February 2008, most of the commercial establishments of downtown have closed due to the ongoing anti-government sit-in. Although still picturesque with a handful of restaurants still open, downtown is mostly deserted. The rest of Beirut however is not affected.

  • Downtown - located in the heart of the city beside the Beirut port and Beirut marina; includes many trendy cafés and restaurants and also home to many historical sites.
  • Ashrafieh - the center of entertainment in the city. Ashrafieh is divided into smaller areas; Gemmayze and Monot Street are the most popular nightspots, while Sassine Square and Sodeco Square are mainly afternoon shopping areas.
  • Ain El Mraiseh - seafront district with plenty of hotels and restaurants.
  • Hamra - a hive of activity, and a shopping-lover's paradise. Hamra became the center during the troubles in the 70's. The more popular places are Bliss st., Hamra st., Sourati st. and'Jean D'Arc st., each havings its own share of cafés, hotels, and restaurants.
  • Manara - The Westernmost district of Beirut. Literally translates to "the head of Beirut" due to its location on the tip of peninsula, home to the Manara Lighthouse and various beach clubs.
  • Rawcheh - Pigeon Rocks, the focal point of this district, is a must see.
  • Ramlet El Baida - a residential area just south of Rawcheh, here you'll find Beirut's only public beach.
  • Verdun - think trendy shopping, Rue. Verdun (or Verdun st.) is the main area where you'll find most hotels and shops.
  • Jnah - a predominantly residential area in southern Beirut, but also home to various beach clubs and hotels.

[edit] Understand

Martyr's Statue in Martyr's Square
Martyr's Statue in Martyr's Square

[edit] History

Beirut has survived a rough history, falling under the occupation of one empire after another,. Originally named Bêrūt, "The Wells" by the Phoenicians, Beirut's history goes back more than 5000 years. Excavations in the downtown area have unearthed layers of Phoenician, Hellenistic, Roman, Arab and Ottoman civilizations.

Following World War II, Lebanon was granted its independence by France and Beirut became its capital. Beirut thrived as a major commercial and tourist center of the Middle East. It was a top destination among wealthy Arabs and European tourists, due to Beirut's unique geography, climate, diverse culture, and freedom. Beirut was seen as the "European gateway to the Middle East" and vice versa and was often called the "Paris of the Middle East".

Beirut is and was home to over 10 recognized religious sects. Religious tension between the Christian and Muslim factions sparked a brutal civil war in 1975. The conflict lasted nearly a decade and a half, ravaging the city. The central area of the city, previously the focus of much of the commercial and cultural activities, became a no-man's land. Throughout the war, the city was divided between the largely Muslim west part and the Christian east.

Since the end of the war in 1989, the people of Lebanon have been rebuilding Beirut. The city has undertaken an aggressive rebuilding policy, much of which was spurred on by the leadership of the former Lebanese prime minister, Rafik Hariri. The city has since regained its status as a tourist, cultural and intellectual center of the Middle East, as well as a center for commerce, fashion and media.

[edit] People

Beirut has a very friendly atmosphere, and Beirutis have a reputation for being very sociable and outgoing. The locals are used to the sight of foreigners and would be happy to show you around the city, if you ask them.

It is helpful to display some basic courtesies. A simple Bonjour when entering a cafe or shop can work wonders, and might even get you a special rate, or when hopping into a taxi, might just keep the driver from overcharging you. Say Merci when given or offered something, and if you'd rather not accept, then say La'a merci and smile; otherwise you might be taken as rude, even though you're not.

Beirutis love going out, and the nightlife in Beirut is arguably world-class. If (and when) you go out at night, dressing up well will most certainly get you some respect. The locals like to see that foreigners are doing what they can to fit in. Expect to be offered a drink or a cigarette.

Smoking is rather common in Beirut, a large portion of the people smoke both outdoors and indoors. Most restaurants have special smoking areas that are ventilated, so make sure you ask whether a particular restaurant or cafe is smoking or not, and ask for a non-smoking table if you don't want to end your night with a bad headache.

[edit] Language

Beirut is very culturally diverse, and thus, multilingual. Arabic and French are the official first languages, while English is widely spoken as a second language. Younger people are generally more likely to be fluent in English than older people. Even if they can't speak your language well, locals will in most cases do what they can to help.

Shop signs are in English, so are most restaurant menus, and event listings and such. Road signs however are in French and Arabic.

[edit] Get in

The best way to get into Beirut is by air.

[edit] By plane

Beirut Rafik Hariri International Airport (IATA: BEY), is the country's only international airport and the hub of Lebanon's national carrier, Middle East Airlines (MEA). Most international airlines have daily flights between Beirut and the major European capitals. The airport is located 7km south of Beirut, and is roughly a 10 to 15 minute drive from the city center.

You may purchase a 15-day tourist visa at the airport for $17 or a 30-day tourist visa for $34. Visitors from some countries do not require a visa (UK for example) and can go straight through immigration.

At the moment, there is no public transportation to or from the airport. However, taxis are plentiful, and comfortable taxis that are authorized by the airport are parked next to the terminal in the arrivals level and have an airport logo on the side (official airport taxi fares). As these taxis are regulated by the airport authorities, they are guaranteed to be honest in their rates. Regular taxis are also available and are located a little farther from the airport, but these are not guaranteed and are to be used at ones own risk. In the future, there are plans to offer regularly scheduled bus services from the airport to various parts of the city and even other parts of the country. Bus shelters are already constructed at the airport.

Beirut's top hotel, the 5-star 446-room InterContinental Phoenicia hotel[2] located on the western outskirts of the Beirut Central District on the northern coast provides 24-hour complimentary airport shuttle service and is also a short drive from the airport. All major car rental companies have booking offices inside the airport.

[edit] By car

There are four border crossing points between Lebanon and Syria:

  • Masnaa (on the Beirut-Damascus Highway)
  • Qaa (at the northern edge of the Békaa Valley)
  • Arida (north of Tripoli along the coast)
  • Aboudiyeh (northeast of Tripoli).

You can travel between Lebanon and Syria by private/rental car, bus, private taxi, or service taxi. Visa can be issued at the border. If traveling by land, contact your embassy in Beirut beforehand.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By taxi

There are two types of taxis in Beirut; the old (often) battered hail-taxis, and the prebooking taxis.

  • Hail-taxi - The most convenient form of transport in Beirut, as they are absolutely everywhere. Those taxis are predominantly Mercedes Benz cars (though recently, due to increasing petrol prices, taxi drivers are opting for more economic forms or transport) and can be pretty easily identified by their yellow illuminated taxi sign on the roof and red number plate. Fixed meters aren't provided so it is recommended to ask how much your trip will cost before hopping in. The fare will be charged per destination and not per distance traveled (which is an advantage since traffic is a big problem in the city). A typical journey from one side of Beirut to the other (roughly 3 km) may cost around 10.000L.L (€5.00). Most taxi drivers speak English and French (at least a few words of each) as well as the local Arabic so communication should not be a problem. Knowing the name of your destination in the local language may solve any misunderstandings. note: keep in mind the names of the landmarks around the city, as they will come in handy when traveling by public transport (some drivers mightn't be that good at orienteering!).
  • Prebook taxi - These require that you call them and book a ride, they generally cost more but are much more luxurious and are normally air conditioned. All hotels should provide you with a taxi directory, if you wish to use this type of service. Taxi prices are considered cheap if compared to US and European taxis. Major taxi companies are: Geryes Taxi (00961-1-332747), Taxi Premiere (Tel 1260 or 00961-1-389222). Allo Taxi (Tel 1213 or 00961-1-366661),

[edit] By service

The more common form of transport, especially with daily commuters, as they are cheaper than the taxis, but ironically, are in fact the same. Service [ser-vee-s] are shared-taxis, the same taxis as above but shared between four people. The biggest advantage with these are that the fare is split between all other passengers, and thus, a typical journey will only cost around 1.500L.L (€0.75). They come with drawbacks of course, and apart from having to share a small car with three other complete strangers (great for meeting new people actually), the service only travels a specific route (usually up and down a street), which means you'll have to get out and take another service at the end of the route. Hailing a service or taxi usually entails yelling your destination to the driver if he slows down, then chasing the name of your destination with either 'taxi' or 'service'.

It is important that you specify what type of ride you want (when hailing a taxi or service), if you fail to do so, the driver will assume you asked for taxi, and will overcharge you at taxi-rate.

[edit] By bus

There are currently two public transport companies. The OCFTC [3] that operates a fleet of blue and white city-buses, and the LCC [4] with a fleet of red and white minibuses; Bus fares cost around 600 to 750L.L ($0.40 to 0.50). The service is very efficient and the buses come very often, to get onto a bus you must stand at the side of the road and signal with your hand as a bus approaches; the buses will stop anywhere.

[edit] By car

Driving in Beirut is not to be recommended for much of the day, particularly in the city center. Traffic is heavy, and impossible during rush hour. There is so much to see and being stuck in a traffic jam is the last thing anyone would want to spend their time doing. Walking around the city is much more of an experience, and is in fact necessary in the very center since that part of the city is a pedestrian area.

It can be difficult to find parking other than in multi-story and off-street car parks. On-street parking, if you are lucky enough to find one, is allowed for a short time of two hours. Tickets must be purchased through the parking meters usually located at either end of a street. They can be paid by either cash or card. Overstaying your time may get you a ticket. Enforcement of the parking limit isn't done very efficiently, but obviously the last thing anyone would want to find is a ticket that will ruin their day and set them back financially.

Renting a car is recommended if you're planing to visit neighboring towns and cities such as Jounieh, or if you're planing to go out late at night when public transport isn't operating, or maybe simply to enjoy the Lebanese "see-and-be-seen" lifestyle. Car rental prices range from economical 40.000L.L/day (€20.00/day) to luxury and exotic standard prices. Those can change according to season, so make sure you contact the car rental company beforehand to check prices as well as pickup/drop-off locations.

Note: Driving in Beirut is on the right-hand side of the road.

Note: Only the central areas of Beirut have traffic lights operating, though plans have been made to cover all of the city.

Rent a car: below is a selected list of car hire companies.

[edit] On foot

As the city is quite compact, walking is the best way of getting around, and perfect for getting off the beaten track to find unexpected surprises. Streets are generally well signposted, but few Beiruti locals would know how to navigate according to their names, directions are usually given by building placement ("straight down the road until you reach building X, turn left there, then right..."), and many streets have local nicknames that wouldn't match the map. That said, if you find yourself lost in the streets, simply ask any passer-by for directions; no one will refuse to help! Otherwise you can stop at the nearest hotel or shop and ask. Hotel concierges and shop keepers will most definitely speak English.

Some roads in Beirut are in poor condition. Not so much in the center, but the farther you get from downtown the more road works you will most probably find. So take care!

[edit][add listing] See

Beirut was called the "Paris of the Middle East" because of its vibrant outdoor cafe culture and European architecture and also in part because most Beirutis can speak French and English along with their native Arabic.

Each district has its own sights and places to visit. The Downtown District has some very impressive ancient and historical sites going back to over 6000 years. The following listings are just some highlights of things that you really should see if you can during your visit to Beirut. The complete listings are found on each individual district page.

[edit] Landmarks

  • Pigeon Rocks(Rawcheh District) A monumental natural arch jutting up from the Mediterranean. Great place to sit at one of the roadside cafes and watch the sun set.
  • Solidére Clock Tower (Downtown District), originally built by the French in the early 20th century in the very center of the Downtown district, it suffered a lot of war damage during the war but recently has been restored.
  • Martyr's Statue Downtown Martyr's Square, east of Nejmeh Square towards Ashrafieh.

[edit] Museums and galleries

  • National Museum Of Beirut[12](Ras El Nabaa, South Ashrafieh) Archeology and History. Tu-Su 9AM-5PM, closed Mon and Holidays, Fee: 5.000L.L(adult),1.000L.L(students,under 18's).
  • Sursock Museum(Ashrafieh District), Rue.Sursock (street), Ashrafieh, Beirut. (Contemporary Modern art), the building itself is a perfect example of the typical 18th century Lebanese palace. Lebanese and International art is permanently displayed in the intricately preserved interior.
  • Matignon Gallery (Lebanese and International contemporary art), Sin El Fil, Greater Beirut, +(961) 1-500265, 484115 (fax: +(961) 1-484115). Mon-Fri 10AM-6PM, Sat 10AM-2PM.  edit
  • AUB Museum(Hamra District)[13] Archeology and History, the Middle East's oldest museum. Rue. Bliss (Rue.33), Hamra, (01)340549. Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00, closed holidays.
  • Emmagoss Gallery, Emmaniel Guiragossian Art School, New Jdeideh, Greater Beirut, 00961 1 900091 (), [14].  edit

[edit] Parks & Squares

  • Sanayeh Park, Emmile Eddé Road, Hamra, Beirut
  • Horsh Beirut (Beirut Pine Forest), (adjacent to the Beirut Hippodrome south of Ashrafieh)
  • Khalil Gebran Park Downtown District (between Amir Amine St. and Toufik Khaled St.)
  • Debbas Square Saifi village Downtown (bewteen Charles Debbas St. and Dmascus St.)
  • Nejmeh Square Central Downtown
  • Herbal Garden Riad El Solh St. Downtown.

[edit] Festivals & Events

Events

To stay up to date on Beirut's nightlife scene, visit any Virgin Megastores branch to ask about any upcoming events. Many live concerts are held throughout the year with international musicians and DJ's. Beirut has hosted some of the world’s biggest names in Dance music such as Paul Van Dyk, Ferry Corsten, Nick Warren, Anthony Pappa, Sasha, John Digweed, Danny Howells, Steve Lawler and Tiesto. Alternatively keep an ear out for the radio:

  • Beirut International Film Festival, [17]. Held annually in October, the Beirut Film Festival exhibits films from all over the middle east, usually in either Arabic or French. The films vary enormously and some can be intensely political.
  • Beirut International Jazz Festival, [18]. Held annually during the month of July over a period of four days, some of the greatest international jazz artists as well as musicians from around Lebanon play some quality music near the Beirut marina.
  • Festival du cinéma francophone [19], Held between the month of march and april over a period of two weeks, films are in French. Cinéma Métropolis - Masrah Al Madina, Beirut, (tel: 00961 1 293 212).
  • One Big Sunday, Beach party with live DJs held every Sunday during the summer months in various resorts and beaches, organised by Mix FM[20].
  • Bacardi Night, Annual festival held during the summer with some of the hottest DJs from around the world, organised by Mix FM[21].

[edit][add listing] Do

Things to do in Beirut are virtually unlimited. Check the different districts to find out what each has to offer. Meanwhile, here are a few highlights:

Typical Beach Club in Greater Beirut
Typical Beach Club in Greater Beirut
  • Bet on an Arabian thoroughbred every Sunday in the Beirut Hippodrome, officially called Hippodrome Du Parc De Beyrouth [22], open on Sundays only, the hippodrome is home to popular horse races, attracting a dedicated betting crowd (often old taxi drivers). Foreigners should join the fun in the afternoon for free entrance (ID or passport required).
  • Soak up the sun in one of the beach clubs on the Beirut coast. Few actually have sandy beaches, and most unfortunately have been converted into luxury spas with swimming pools and paved terraces, but despite all that, they all have access to the sea. A few of them are completely private and members-only, but could be accessed by paying for a guest ticket if going in with a member. The Saint George Yacht club in Ain El Mreisseh and the Riviera Beach and Yacht Club at the Riviera Hotel are two such popular clubs, where access to the beach club for non-members is US$20 per day. You can chill in one of the pools or have a drink at the bars and cafes while listening to music in the afternoons. Long Beach Club is another good place. The entrance is just to the left of the Ferris wheel on the Cornish right before the hill. Bring a beach towel.
The Cornich before sunset.
The Cornich before sunset.
  • Test your golfing skills at The Golf Club of Lebanon (18 hole), Ouzai - Beer Hassan, P.O.Box 11-3099, Beirut (next to Henry chehab barrack), 00961 1 826335-6-7 (, fax: 00961 1 822474), [23].  edit

  • Take a ride on the Beirut Balloon (30 passenger helium filled balloon, offering breathtaking views from an altitude of 300m.), Allenby St., Downtown Beirut (Entrance is through Biel Convention Centre. Look for it in the sky!), 00961 1 985901. 10am-10pm.  edit

  • Walk, jog, skate, cycle, stroll (or whatever you consider exercise) along Paris Avenue which links up to General De Gaulle Avenue (both locally known simply as the corniche) which stretch around the entire Central Beirut perimeter (approx. 5km). Start the walk, jog, skate etc... at the Beirut marina (Downtown Beirut District) about an hour or so before sunset and finish at the Pigeon Rocks in Rawcheh, in time to watch the sun go down while sipping on a drink at one of the outdoor cafés.
  • Scuba Dive:, With 300 sunny days a year, 36 shipwrecks, impressive walls, canyons, caves, Ray habitats and shark habitats, Beirut definitely has something to offer for a serious scuba diver. The French WWII submarine Le Souffleur, the British freighter Alice B which sank during the civil war in the 80's, The Macedonia freighter which sank in 1962 and the National Star freighter in 1991, the Mediterranean flagship of Admiral Sir George Tryon HMS Victoria which sank in 1893, The British Lesbian which sank during WWII, make just a few of Beirut's shipwreck collection. Historical cities dot ancient Phoenicia' s shore, providing us today with many interesting submerged historical sites, some littered with Phoenician and Roman marble stones, granite columns, pathways, old stone anchors, amphorae and bits of pottery. There are several Dive Centers around Beirut:
    • NISD (National Institute for Scuba Diving) [24], Solidere Beirut Marina, Downtown Beirut, P.O. Box : 113-6691, (+961-3-204422) (email: info@nisd-online.com fax: +961-1-739206).
    • LD (Lebanon Divers) [25], Mardelli Building 2nd Floor, Saide Street Ashrafieh - Beirut, (00961-1-322826/00961-3-602614) (email: info@lebanondivers.com fax: 00961-1-329441).
    • Atlantis [26], Bel Azur Hotel, Jounieh, Greater Beirut, (email: dive@atlantisdivingcollege.com).

[edit] Learn

  • AUB [27]- American University of Beirut - The American University of Beirut (AUB) was founded in 1866 as a private, independent, non-sectarian institution of higher learning, functioning under a charter from the State of New York. AUB has grown from 16 students in a rented house to a major university with over 6,900 students located on a 73-acre campus overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The University is governed by an autonomous Board of Trustees comprised of international leaders in business, education, diplomacy, engineering, philanthropy, science, and medicine.
  • CPF [28]- Collège Protestant Français - The "Collège Protestant Français" is a French school, founded in 1926. It is one of the most important schools in Lebanon. It is found at Koraytem, Madame Curie street, Near the castle of the assassinated prime minister Rafic Hariri.
  • LAU [29]- Lebanese American University - The Lebanese American University is an American institution chartered by the Board of Regents of the University of the State of New York and operating in Lebanon. Currently, LAU has two campuses: one located in Beirut, and a second in the Mount Lebanon city of Jbeil (Byblos). The university offers programs leading to Associate's, Bachelor's, and Master's degrees in the arts and sciences, and Doctorates in Pharmacy. LAU is the only institution outside of the United States with an ACPE-accredited pharmacy program. LAU is currently a candidate for accreditation by the Commission on Institution of Higher Education of the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC).
  • USJ [30]- Universitee Saint-Joseph - A private university founded in 1875. A member of the Association of Arab Universities, the International Association of Universities, the Association of French speaking universities (AUPELF) the International Federation of Catholic Universities, the European Federation of Catholic Universities, the Association of Jesuit Institutions of Higher Learning in Europe and Lebanon and the Euro-Med University (Téthys).

[edit][add listing] Buy

Clothes and fashion - Beirut is the fashion center of the region, with fashion designers that rival the best in the world; Elie Saab[31], Basil Soda[32], Pierre Katra[33] and Robert AbiNader[34] (to name just a few that have reached international status) make Beirut a great place to do clothes-shopping.

[edit] Shopping streets

There are several shopping districts around the city.

  • Downtown Beirut - The recently renovated city center that boasts some of the fanciest and most expensive designer stores in the region.
  • Hamra Street - A less expensive and more all-man shopping area, the perfect place to do bulk shopping since prices are relatively low.
  • Mar-Elias Street - A busy street towards the south of Beirut. Many of the stores are Lebanese brands which means this is the perfect place to find bargains as most brands are local and cheap.
  • Rue. Verdun - This is one of Beirut's most prestigious areas where some of the more important boutiques are found.

[edit] Malls

  • ABC Mall, Achrafieh Alfred Naccache Street, Mar Mitr, 00961 1 212888 [35]
  • Beirut Mall, Tayouneh roundabout, 00961 1 385888, [36].
  • ABC Beauté, Bab Idriss, downtown, 00961 1 991888. Offering a wide range of international cosmetics and perfume brands, nail bar, professional hairdressers and stylists. Open Mon-Sat 10AM-7PM.
  • Miss ABC, Hamra street, facing Cinema strand, 00961 1 344740. Women's specialty store. Open Mon-Sat 9:45-7:45, closed Sunday.
  • City Mall, Dora highway roundabout, Greater Beirut, 00961 1 905555. Includes 100 stores, 15 cafes and restaurants, a Hypermarket, and 9 movie theaters.
  • Dunes Center, Centre Dunes, Verdun Str., +961 1 785310, [37]. Displaying some of the latest shopping brands, as well as many cafes and a movie theater.
  • Virgin Megastore - Currently four branches in Beirut: Beirut International Airport, Martyr's square Downtown (claims to be the biggest Virgin Megastore outside the UK), City Mall (Dora roundabout), ABC department store (Ashrafieh).
  • Music, Books, Event Tickets: Virgin Megastores Currently four branches in Beirut: Beirut International Airport, Martyr's square Downtown (claims to be the biggest Virgin Megastore outside the UK), City Mall (Dora roundabout), ABC department store (Ashrafieh).

[edit] Markets

Flea markets are surprisingly hard to find, occasional organized markets are held that are made to resemble flea markets.

  • Souk El Tayeb Held every Saturday in the Saifi village downtown between 9AM-2PM, feed your soul as well as your face in Beirut's first organic farmer's market. Promoting traditional methods of farming and preserving, it's a great place to pick up local honey, cheese and breads, plus artisans' crafts. It also runs regular cookery classes, to learn how to make that perfect tabouleh (bulgur salad).
  • Sunday Market Get up early and join the locals for a rummage at the Sunday Market which opens between 7am and 1pm, next to Beirut River in the east. You might find antique jewellery, clothing and beads, or maybe just bric-a-brac, but there's an eclectic selection of goodies on show. Remember to bargain hard!
  • Burj Hammoud Beirut's Armenian quarter, perfect place to shop for cheap bric-a-brac, artisan's crafts, souvenirs, copper and brass ware and faus-brands. Don't forget to haggle. Burj Hammoud is located to the East of ashrafieh across the Beirut river.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Lebanese Cuisine

The Mediterranean diet is one of the healthiest in the world. Lebanese cuisine in particular enjoys a worldwide reputation for its richness and variety as well as, of course, its Mediterranean health factor. The Lebanese gastronomy is a rich mixture of various products and ingredients coming from the diverse Lebanese regions. Olive oil, herbs, spices, fresh fruits and vegetables are commonly used, as well as dairy products, cereals, fishes and various types of meat. A visit to Beirut is no real visit unless you try (at least once) the traditional Lebanese Mezze (Meza), an elaborate variety of thirty hot and cold dishes. A typical Mezze may consist of salads such as the Tabboule and Fattouch, together with the caviars: Hommos and Moutabal, and some patties such as the Sambousseks and finally the stuffed grape leaves, with of course the Lebanese flat pita bread which is essential to every Lebanese Mezze.

Must try:

  • Mankoushé: a Lebanese pizza, or at least that's what it looks like, the Mankoushé is a baked pizza-shaped dough with either a mixture of local cheeses or thyme (or a mixture of both) on top, can be bought from all bakeries as well as special Forn Mankhoushé which specialize in this type of food, usually had for breakfast. cost between 1.000L.L and 3.000L.L .
  • Ka'ek: a different version of the classic bagel, only about a foot in diameter and hollow, normally filled with thyme but you can ask for cheese spread as well. The only place to buy these are from the local street vendors (no shops sell them) that ride bicycles or motorized scooters and honk a manual horn. Although not of Lebanese origins, they're quite popular and are always found near Rawcheh area, they're worth a try. cost about 1.000L.L .
  • Roastery Nuts: roasted nuts are certainly the local favorite appetizers particularly with the older people. Local brands such as Al Rifai[38] and Al Andalous have dedicated roasteries where customers walk in and order fresh, they produce some of the best nuts in the region, and certainly the most varied. Pecans, Cashews, Macadamias, Hazelnuts, Almonds, Pistachios, Peanuts its all there. Ask for Krikri in thyme, spice, or cheese flavor.
  • Sweets: every religious or national event sees stalls set up on sidewalks outside churches and in public squares, where traditional Lebanese sweets are sold such as: Backlawa, Maamoul, Ktaef, Halawet el Jibn, Halawet el Riz, Knefe and Ashta. If you're lucky enough to come across those be sure to give them all a try, otherwise visit any påtisserie such as the famous Sea Sweet [39] where the same sweets can be purchased (but of course lacking the same authenticity!).

[edit] International Cuisine

Beirut's different cultures brought different tastes for food, and restaurants of all different origins have opened all around the city, particularly in the Ashrafieh District. Restaurants have different price ranges, depending of course on the quality of the ingredients used; check the different districts for the listings.

[edit] Fast food

If you're on a tight budget, or if you simply miss the food that you can get back at home, fast food is your best option. All major international fast food restaurants have opened chains in Beirut (KFC, McDonald's, Burger King, Hardee's, Fridays, Domino's Pizza, Pizza Hut, Dunkin' Donuts, Subway etc...), but many local fast food restaurants have sprung up to compete with the major franchisers. eg:

[edit][add listing] Drink

Nightlife: Alcohol in Beirut is a part of daily life. Each of Beirut's districts has its own fair amount of cafes, bars, and clubs. This said, two of the hotter nightspots, with the highest concentration of pubs and nightclubs are

both located within close range in the Ashrafieh district. New places open, old ones close, others change name at the drop of a hat and hip venues can suddenly become unfashionable. The best way to find out what's in and whats not is by checking the local press or simply going there and seeing for yourself! There is no curfew in Beirut so the parties actually do go on until the break of dawn.

Dress up: dressing up in Beirut is a task of its own, Beirutis love looking their best and this is particularly noticeable when going out. Beirutis definitely have a "party hard" attitude.

Locally brewed beer include Almaza[42] and Laziza. Both worth a try when visiting.

Wine Tasting: Lebanon is one of the oldest sites of wine production in the world and today enjoys a burgeoning industry producing award-winning wines for export throughout the world, mainly in the UK, Europe and the United States. Wine Tasting is an absolute must with any visit to Lebanon. Below are some wine producers in Lebanon for you to keep an eye out for:

  • Chateau Musar [43]
  • Chateau Ksara [44]
  • Chateau Kefraya [45]
  • Domaine Wardy [46]
  • Vin Héritage [47]
  • Chateau Fakra [48]
  • Chateau Nakad [49]
  • Massaya [50]
  • Domaine des Tourelles [51]
  • Clos Saint Thomas [52]
  • Cave Kouroum [53]
  • Clos de Cana [54]
  • Nabise Mont Liban [55]
  • Enotica
  • Chateau Khoury [56]
  • Couvent St. Sauveur

[edit][add listing] Sleep

There are lots of hotels in Beirut's metropolitan area, ranging from cheap hostels to luxury suite hotels. Prices are relatively hight compared to similar hotels around the Mediterranean and Middle east, but if you look well enough, there's bound to be the perfect hotel inside whatever budget you set. Below are some highlights of several hotels around Beirut. Check the different districts to find a longer list of places to sleep.

[edit] Budget

  • L'Hote Libanais [57] a network of Bed & Breakfasts across Beirut and the country, see website for room availability. (Tel: +961 3 513766, Fax: +961 1 614678). Single room including breakfast:$40.
  • Al Nazih Pension, Bld. 3, Rue 62 Chanty, Secteur 29, Gemmayze (on the corner of Martyrs' Square and Charles Hellou Avenue), Tel/Fax +961 3 564868 (mobile: +961 3 475136, email: alnazihpension@yahoo.com) [58] is a good budget option, and is open 24 hours. The hotel is handily situated two minutes' walk from Downtown and also very close to the Charles Hellou bus station. All rooms have satellite TV and A/C, and are of a high standard. The hotel offers a free internet service, and is planning to start offering $15 day tours around Lebanon. Dorm beds are 9,000 LL ($6) and double rooms are 22,500 LL ($15) to 37,500 LL ($25). There are also two triple rooms, each at 36,000 LL ($24).
  • Talal's New Hotel [59], Charles Helou st., Beirut (Beirut Port area, opposite Valli & Valli), Tel-fax :+961(0)1 562567 is a favorite for backpackers and budget travelers. It gives the traveler different options to choose from; It provides dorm beds, single rooms, double rooms, and triple rooms with AC and satellite TV. All rooms have balconies and private rooms have private bathrooms. Talal's Hotel can meet all your needs, including free internet access, laundry, beverages, airport pick up and drop off, car rental, kitchen, and book exchange. Dorm:$7 , single room:$16, double room:$20, triple room:$24 per person per night.

[edit] Mid range

  • Park Tower Suites [60] - Ashrafieh, President Elias Sarkis Avenue, (Tel: (961) 1 333314, (961)3259000, Fax: (961) 1 324783), Stay in pleasant surroundings with a short stroll from and close to all city services, in the vicinity of shops, restaurants, museums and entertainment needs. ParkTower Suites has excellent facilities, comfortable guest suites and public areas. All suites are nicely equipped to create full comfort and relaxing atmosphere. The hotel features a variety of facilities and services to meet the needs of both business and leisure travelers. Modern, clean and spacious all-suite-hotel in the heart of Ashrafieh. Close to Monot Street.
  • Four Points Sheraton [61] - Verdun, Boulevard Saeb Salam, Beirut, Lebanon, (Phone: (961)(1) 803804), Located in the heart of Beirut's most exclusive business and shopping district, easily accessible from Beirut International Airport and only minutes away from Downtown Beirut, Four Points Sheraton Verdun is a brand new boutique Hotel, offering full personalized service in a sophisticated atmosphere with distinctive attitude. Ideally situated for business and leisure travelers, Hotel visitors will find a stimulating world to discover both inside and outside the Hotel.
  • The Lancaster Hotel[62] - Australia Street , Raouche, P.O.Box: 13 – 5303, Beirut, (Tel: +961.1.790810, Fax: +961.1.790820) The Lancaster Hotel, an English style boutique hotel in the heart of Beirut, is ideally located within a 10 minutes walk from the thriving business districts and city centre. Beyond its doors lies the well known shopping boulevards, Verdun and Hamra street. Close to the seashore and the famous Raouche Rock, and only 9 kms from Beirut International Airport, its central location makes it the ideal venue for business, incentive, and leisure travellers.

[edit] Splurge

  • InterContinental Phoenicia [63]- Minet El Hosn Beirut PO Box 11/846, (Toll-Free: 01 426801 - 8668667556, Tel: 961-1-369100, Fax:961-1-369101, Email: phoenicia@phoenicia-ic.com), Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the InterContinental Phoenicia Beirut is situated along the famous boardwalk, “Corniche” a few minutes from the city’s business and banking district, and the ever lively and entertaining city center. Beirut International Airport is only a few kilometers away. The InterContinental Phoenicia Beirut offers a diversity of services to meet the needs of the modern businessman as well as families seeking a time of leisure and relaxation.
  • Moevenpick Hotel & Resort [64] - General de Gaulle Avenue, P.O. Box 20386908000, (Phone +961 1 869666 Fax +961 1 809326), The only city centre hotel with resort facilities located in the heart of bustling Beirut. Ideally located on the Mediterranean Sea, in the heart of the capital, 10km from Rafic Hariri International Airport, in close proximity to the city centre and the upscale shopping area. The property is a mere few hours drive from cultural and historical sites. Features: On the Mediterranean Sea with private beach and Marina, walking distance from Beirut Central District. Exclusive Essential Spa and Health Club spread over 2000 sqm with 11 treatment rooms. Outstanding facilities for banquets and wedding area for 2000 people around the pool.
  • Le Méridien Commodore [65] - Hamra, Commodore Street · PO Box 11-3456, Riad El-Solh · Beirut 1107 2140, (Phone: (961)(1) 734 734), Located in the heart of Beirut in the famous district of Hamra, Le Méridien Commodore is just minutes away from the city’s lively business and shopping districts and the Mediterranean Sea. Opportunities to explore Lebanon’s rich cultural history await guests of Le Méridien Commodore. Features: Le Méridien Commodore features a range of meeting and banquet facilities, an outdoor swimming pool, and “Lifestyle,” Beirut’s finest health club.

[edit] Stay safe

The US government has issued a warning to travelers visiting Lebanon. The violence in Naher al-Bared has ceased but beware of possible terrorist activity. If you choose to visit Lebanon, visit the isolated cities like Jounieh, Byblos or Tyr. Beirut is safe, but avoid South Beirut, for it is a Hezbollah-supported area. Baalbeck is safe, but also visit with caution for it too is a Hezbollah-supported area. The mountain cities around Beirut and in the North are generally very safe but always be on the lookout for political turmoil. Try to avoid any political demonstrations.

Photography of military personnel and installations is prohibited.

Avoid talking about politics and religion, even if asked, for this might lead to trouble. Avoid any governmental or military convoys that may be passing by. The Lebanese people have adapted to all those situations.

[edit] Cope

[edit] Weather

Beirut enjoys Mediterranean climate. Come in April to June for warm, dry days and long, cool evenings (19–25°C). Temperatures in July and August rise to around 30°C and humidity can be somewhat overwhelming – make sure your hotel has air conditioning. The wettest months are December to February so bring a good coat and umbrella, the rain can sometimes be heavy. Lebanon's ski season runs from December till early April.

Despite the diverse climate that changes noticeably per season, the weather is very predictable; the weather forecast, on radio and TV stations are normally very accurate, so you normally shouldn't find yourself caught in a sudden downpour in the winter months.

[edit] Public Holidays

Due to Lebanon's diverse culture, many public holidays are celebrated, some of which more than once: New Year's Day, Armenian-Orthodox Christmas (6 Jan), Eid al-Adha – Feast of Sacrifice, celebrating the last day of Hajj, the Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca (Dec/Jan), Al Hijrah – Islamic New Year (Jan), Feast of St Maroun (9 Feb), Eid Milad Mnabi – Prophet's Anniversary (Mar/Apr), Good Friday (Apr), Labour Day (1 May). Martyrs' Day (6 May), Liberation of the South (25 May), Assumption (15 Aug), Eid al-Fitr - Festival of the Breaking of the Fast (Oct), All Saints' Day (1 Nov), Independence Day (22 Nov), Christmas Day (25 Dec). Based on the lunar calendar, Islamic holidays move forward approximately 11 days every Western year.

[edit] Dress

Anything goes in Beirut. Shorts and T shirts are perfect for the summer heat, for both men and women, while heavier clothing is necessary during the winter. You should cover up if visiting religious sites, such as mosques and churches. Going out at night is a smart affair, so dress fashionably to fit in.

[edit] Money

  • Currency:The official currency is the Lebanese Pound. However along with the Lebanese Pound, the US dollar is used. US$1 is roughly equivalent to 1512LL.
  • Payment cards: Many shops, hotels, restaurants, bars etc accept international payment cards such as Visa or American Express.
  • Automatic bank tellers: Withdrawal can be made from any automatic bank teller found in any region of the country
  • Traveler's checks: Lebanese banks can exchange them very easily.

[edit] Stay in touch

Many cafes and restaurants provide free WiFi to customers. Internet Cafes are plentiful in Beirut, and they should all provide printing and copying services as well as web surfing. The inner-city internet cafes tend to be more expensive (approx $2-3/hr) than those in the residential areas (approx $0.50/hr), but are also usually 'nicer' eg: providing a faster internet connection with new fast computers:

  • GDS Global Data Systems, Sodeco Square, ground floor Sodeco Street, Ashrafieh, Beirut, +961-1-615578 (, fax: +961-1-615578), [66]. 10:00 AM to 11:00 PM. $2.5 per hour.  edit
  • GDSonline, Downtown,Maarad street,287B. Beirut central district, 01/970121 (, fax: 01/970121). 11AM till 1AM. $2.5 per hour.  edit

Payphones [67] can be found on all main streets all around the city, however, they can only take smart cards called Telecarte which provide a specific amount of prepaid calling time and can be used from any payphone. Telecarte denominations come in 10.000L.L (€6.6) and 30.000L.L ($20.00). Telecarte can be purchase at OGERO Sales Offices and MoT offices (most Minimarkets/Supermarkets/Hypermarkets as well as Mobile phone stores sell them).

Telecarte:

  • allows you to save 10% on International Direct Calls.
  • allows you to make national calls to any regular line at 100 LL/min.
  • allows you to make national calls to any cellular line at 300 LL/min.

[edit] Radio stations

Radio in Beirut is quite popular, particularly with the younger people who listen to the English-spoken stations as all events and concerts are advertised through those. Arabic and French broadcasted stations are plentiful, and are worth a listen if you'd like to experience the traditional culture. Below are radio stations that are broadcasted in English:

  • NRJ (99FM), [68]
  • Mix FM (104,4FM), [69]
  • Radio One (105.5FM), [70]
  • Fame FM (99.9FM), [71]

[edit] Newspapers

Official Newsboxes can be found throughout the commercial areas in the city, mainly in Sassine Square ashrafieh, Verdun st. Verdun, Concorde st. Hamra. All Minimarkets/Supermarkets/Hypermarkets distribute newspapers and magazines as well.

  • The Daily Star [72] Independent daily English-language newspaper covering local, national and international news.
  • Monday Morning [73] Independent weekly English-language journal.
  • L'Orient Le Jour [74] a popular independent French-language newspaper.

There is a huge variety of Arabic newspapers of all sorts, as well as ethnic newspapers such as the Armenian Aztag Daily.

[edit] Hospitals

Emergency number

Dial 112

  • American University of Beirut Medical Center (AUBMC) (Internal medicine, General surgery, Heart surgery, Maternity, Pediatrics, Urology, Ophthalmology, Specialized Eye center, Family medicine, Intensive care unit, Physiotherapy, Blood bank, Pharmacy, Laboratory, and Emergency services.), Makdissi Street, Hamra, P.O. Box: 113-6044, Beirut, 01-350000;1-340460;1-340740;1-374444;1-374374 (, fax: 01-345325), [75].  edit
  • Hotel Dieu Hospital: (Internal Medicine, General Surgery -Heart Surgery, Kidney, Liver and Bone marrow transplant, Maternity, Pediatrics, Intensive Care Units, One day surgery, Outpatient care, Diagnostic procedures, Pathology and Laboratory Medicine, blood bank, Medical Imaging services, Radiation Oncology, Hem dialysis, Pharmacy, Physiotherapy, Emergency services.), Adib Ishak Street, BVD. Alfred Naccache, Achrafieh, Beirut - P.O. Box: 166830, 01-615300;01-615400 (, fax: 01-615295), [76].  edit
  • Saint George Hospital University medical center: (internal medicine, general surgery, heart surgery, maternity, pediatrics, intensive care unit, physiotherapy, blood bank, pharmacy, laboratory and emergency services.), Rmeil, Youssef Sursock street P.O. Box: 166378, Achrafieh, Beirut, 01-585700; 01-525700 (, fax: 01-582560), [77].  edit
  • Clinique Dr. Rizk Hospital: (Services Provided: Internal medicine, surgery, maternity, pediatrics, kidney transplant, specialized eye center, intensive care unit, physiotherapy, pharmacy, laboratory and emergency services.), Zahar St., Achrafieh P.O. Box: 11-3288, Beirut, 01-200800;01-328800 (, fax: 01-200816), [78].  edit
  • Makassed Hospital: (Internal medicine, surgery, bone marrow transplant, maternity, pediatrics, intensive care unit, physiotherapy, blood bank, pharmacy, laboratory and emergency services.), Ouzai St., Tarik Al-Jadida P.O. Box: 6301, Beirut, 01-646590/1/2/3/4/5/6 (, fax: 01-646589), [79].  edit
  • Najjar Hospital: (Internal medicine, Surgery, Maternity, Pediatrics, Intensive care unit, Blood bank, Pharmacy, Laboratory and Emergency services.), Maamari Street, Ras Beirut P.O. Box: 113-5984, Beirut, 01-340626; 03-669911 (, fax: 01-343992).  edit
  • Sahel Hospital: (Internal medicine, general surgery, maternity, intensive care unit, physiotherapy, blood bank, pharmacy, laboratory and emergency services.), Airport Ave., Dergham Street P.O.Box: 99/25, Ghobeiry, Beirut, 01-858333 (, fax: 01-840146), [80].  edit
  • Trad Hospital and Medical Center: (Internal medicine, surgery, maternity, pharmacy, and laboratory services.), : Mexico Street, Fifth Floor, Clemenceau, Hamra P.O. Box: 113-6431, Beirut, 01-341740, 01-369494/5 (fax: 01-361663).  edit
  • Fuad Khoury Hospital: (internal medicine, surgery, gynecology, blood bank, pharmacy, laboratory and emergency services.), Maktabi Bldg., Abdelaziz Street, Hamra, Beirut, 01-742140/3/7, 01-348811 (, fax: 01-350208), [81].  edit
  • Barbir Hospital: (Internal medicine, surgery, maternity, pediatrics, intensive care unit, physiotherapy, blood bank, pharmacy, laboratory and emergency services.), Fuad The First Street, Barbir P.O.Box: 11/4302, Beirut, 01-652915/6/7/8; 01-652955 (, fax: 01-631429).  edit

[edit] Get out

Once you leave Beirut, visit any of the other cities in Lebanon. The country is relatively small, so no single journey to any other city should take more than two hours. Depending on the season visiting, you can go skiing in one the six mountain resorts, or go to the beaches in Tyr or one of the beach resorts in Jounieh. Visit the national heritage sites around Lebanon; every city in the country has at least some form of ancient or historic site.

Buses that head to the North city of Tripoli or to Syria and Jordan operate from the Charles Helou bus station, which is also the station for long-distance taxis that link Beirut to neighboring cities as well as Syria and Jordan. Charles Helou is located next to Port of Beirut. It can be difficult to understand the main bus routes at first but you can always ask, bus drivers are like everybody else in Lebanon, friendly and may be able to communicate in English or French.

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