Barcelona/Ciutat Vella

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Ciutat Vella (Catalan for "Old city") is, as it's name suggests, the oldest part of Barcelona. It includes buildings and attractions from all the city history and has the most important monuments (except the most famous modernist ones).

The district is divided in four quarters, Barceloneta (separate article), Casc Antic, Barri Gòtic and Raval.

[edit] Get in

Since Ciutat Vella is also the city center, nearly all public transportation leads you there. The transportation center is Plaça Catalunya, and is possible to arrive by train, subway (L1, L3, L6, L7) and bus (many regular ones during day, all the night lines and Aerobus to the Airport).

There are also two other places very close to Plaça Catalunya where the subway and the buses stop, Plaça Universitat, with L1 and L2 lines and Plaça Urquinaona, with L4 and L2 lines.

To reach the other parts of the district, the maximum time to get to the furthest part of the city is twenty minutes.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Casc Antic

  • Palau de la Música, C/Sant Pere més Alt 13. This auditorium designed by Ramon Muntaner is the most important Modernist example in Ciutat Vella. It was the headquarters of the Orfeó Català, the oldest Catalan Choir. The most beautiful part is the stalls with its fine detailing, although all the building is impressive. There are plenty of allegories about music and Catalonia, since the Orfeó Català is strongly bounded with the Catalan.
  • Santa Maria del Mar Plaça de Santa Maria. One of the most representative examples of Catalan Gothic architecture, it features a sombre but beautiful interior. The upsweeping verticality and lightness of the interior are especially surprising considering the blocky exterior surfaces. Built between 1329 and 1383, it was once was home to a Christian cult in the late 3rd century.
  • Calle Montcada, near C/Princesa, in the Born quarter. This street has the biggest collection of Gothic houses in Barcelona. In amongst these houses is the Picasso Museum, which is definitely worth a visit. Curb your hunger at one of the many tapas restaurants here that serve delicious, although a tad expensive, bite sized delights.
  • Passeig del Born. This avenue goes from the Santa Maria del Mar church to the Born market and is where the legendary jousting matches of the Middle Ages took place, as well as numerous fairs and marches. This is also where men were knighted. It is a really old street, very wide for the time.Don Quijote de la Mancha, the famous Cervantes character, had a contest in this place.
  • Mercat del Born. This market was the central market for Barcelona until the 1973 and its closing marked the beginning of the neighborhood's decline before its current resurgence. While undergoing renvoations, whole streets and homes from Phillipe V's orders were discovered and archaeologists are now still studying the area.
  • Parc de la Ciutadella, at the end of C/Princesa. This park is Barcelona's most central park, and includes a zoo, a lake and several museums. In fact, the park is so large, 74 acres, that the Catalan Parliament can be found in the center of the park. It's a great place to enjoy games, sports or to spend a leisurely afternoon.

[edit] Barri Gòtic

  • Plaça Sant Jaume. This square has been the political hub since the Roman era. At one end there is the Palace of the Generalitat (the government of the Autonomous Community of Catalunya) and on the other stands the City Hall. This square has been witness to some of the most important events in recent Catalan history, such as the proclamation of the Catalan State in 1931.
  • Plaça Reial. This square, next to La Rambla, is famous for the nightlife and the uniform architecture. It was build during the XIX century in the place of a monastery, after the Mendizábal law expelled the monks. A new square was built, making all the buildings look the same, with fountains and palm trees. After some years, Antoni Gaudí, the famous architect, designed the lights. It is a good place to go for a drink or a dance.
  • Plaça Sant Felip Neri. One of the most romantic squares in Barelona, hides a dark history in that it was built over the city's old cemetery. Barcelona's most famous architect, Antonio Gaudi, was on his way to visit the church there when he was run over and killed in 1928.
  • Plaça del Pi This square next to Les Rambles is one of the prettiest parts of the quarter. It has a pine tree in the middle (Pi mines pine tree), the church of Santa Maria del Pi, which is a very pretty Gothic church with a huge rose window. Many concerts are done here. The Pi square and it's twin square, called Sant Josep Oriol, have several bars and artisans, painters, musicians are there to sell their products.

[edit] Raval

  • La Rambla. La Rambla is often the first landmark that people identify with the city. It is the central boulevard which cuts through the heart of the city centre and is a vibrant and lively promenade filled with Barcelona action at its best and worst.
  • Hospital de la Santa Creu C/Hospital 56 (going down Les Rambles, turn right at the Miró painting). This Gothic building was the old city hospital, before the modernist Hospital de Sant Pau was build in l'Eixample. Now the hospital has the National Library inside, and is a great example of civilian Gothic archictecture.
  • Sant Pau del Camp C/Sant Pau 101 (going down Les Rambles, following C/Sant Pau, which starts at the Miró painting). A rare example of Romanesque archictecture in the city. Its name reflects the fact that the church was once surrounded by green fields outside the city walls.

[edit] Harbor

Although it's not a quarter, it is another area that travelers like to visit. To find it, just walk down La Rambla until the monument to Columbus. The sea is just after it. The harbor you can see is completely new, since until the 80's it was closed to the public. Some old buildings related to the harbor still exist, such as the Tinglado near the Barceloneta quarter that is now a history museum.

[edit][add listing] Buy

[edit] Food

  • La Boqueria Market (going down Les Rambles, is at your right hand). Tempt your tastebuds at this delightful food market where the food is plentiful, fresh and often cooked to order. To avoid heavy crowds, or to buy the freshest perishables (e.g., seafood), go well before noon. At least in late Fall, Winter and early Spring months, La Boqueria is closed on Sundays. edit

[edit] Clothes and shoes

  • Comite, Notariat, 8 (Raval), +34(93)317-6883, [1]. Mon-Sat 12pm-8:30pm. A group of 7 designers sharing a space where they create and sell their collections. Designers include Cecilia Sorensen, Julia Pelletier, Pia Kahila and Potipoti. Men: Jan iú Més, Bingo and potipoti. edit

  • La Gauche Divine, Passage de la Pau, 7bis. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 4pm-9pm. An incredible multiconcept store near Las Ramblas. An example of the Catalan design is the decoration of the shop with an exclusive combination of furniture from the sixties and paintings and sculptures all around.

[edit][add listing] Eat

This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
Budget Up to €10
Mid-range €10 - €25
Splurge €25 and up

[edit] Budget

  • La Boqueria [2]: Located on the Rambla, and offering a wide variety of fresh, mainly raw foods. When buying anything here head to the cheaper stalls at the back - you can save a fair bit.
  • Cafe Viena. A sandwich bar on Las Ramblas. Truly some of the most delicious sandwiches anywhere. The bread is fresh and crispy, and you'll leave satisfied.
  • Delfin, on the Born: A good set lunch for €9, with typical Catalan specialties such as salmonetes (little fish eaten whole).
  • Pollo Rico. C/Sant Pau 31. A fantastic and cheap grilled chicken place buried in the side streets east of La Rambla.
  • Travel Bar (see details in Drink section) C/Boqueria 27 (near the L3 metro Liceu) [3] For the budget conscious, the bar offers meals for €1. They also serve a full English breakfast and 8oz Irish rump steaks all day long with ingredients imported from the UK.

[edit] Mid-range

  • Cal Pep, Placa de less olles, 8, +34 93 310 79 61 (), [4]. Mon: dinner time only; Tue-Sat lunch and dinner time (closed in Aug). Legendary fish restaurant. With limited seating, the only seats readily available are at the bar if you arrive without a reservation. No menu available, just ask what they have today. Dinner with wine: €30-40.  edit

  • Drassanes cafe (Museu Marítim cafeteria/restaurant), Av. de les Drassanes s/n, +34 (93) 317 52 56, [5]. Mon-Sat daytime, Thu-Sat nighttime. Quiet location just next to Las Ramblas and Columbus monument. Even if you fail to catch the cafeteria open, a bar with a small open-air terrace (Garden of the King) is great place for having a break with coffee and a snack from a bar. edit

[edit] Traditional Spanish food

  • Arrel, Fusina 5, +34 93 319 9299 (), [6]. Locals frequently haunt this favourite in the El Born area of town. Catalan cuisine. Mains €12-16.5.  edit

  • Can Culleretes C/Quintana 5 (From Les Rambles, go to C/Ferran, and it's the first street at your left). Founded in 1786, it is the second oldest restaurant in Spain (after Casa Botín in Madrid). The prices are mid range and the quality is quite good for the price. They serve traditional Catalan food.
  • Meson David A great place serving excellent hearty Galician fare. Try the Lacon pork joint, its amazing. The decor is basic but the atmosphere is great. Expect queues at peak times. You'll eat and drink loads of sangria for €15. Calle carretes 63 in the Raval area. Near St Antoni Metro.
  • Les Quinze Nits, Plaça Reial 6. Metro Liceu. Phone: +34 93 317 30 75. [7]. Open 1-3.45pm, 8.30-11.30pm daily. A place to get cheap, huge and delicious paella. The Gazpacho served here is also one of the finest in the world. Overall, good value for money. There's no reservation, so arrive early; the queue starts at 8pm.
  • El Salero, C/del Rec 60 (in El Born), +34 933 198 022. Mon-Fri 1:30pm-4pm, 9pm-12am; Sat 9pm-12am. A very mellow place to eat and see Barcelona's beautiful people. International cuisine with a nod to Japanese food.

[edit] Modern creative cuisine

  • Carmelitas, C/Doctor Dou, 1 (between MACBA and Bouqueria), +34 93 412-4684 (), [8]. Daily 1:30pm-4pm; Sun-Wed 9pm-12am, Thu-Sat 9pm-1am. Large windows; Cuisine focused on market-fresh ingredients brought from Bouqueria. Simple Catalan dishes in a modern setting. Place is very popular during lunchtime in weekdays.
  • Mediodia, Carrer del Carme, 40 (between MACBA and Bouqueria). Arguably a nearest competitor to Carmelitas which is just across the road. No-frills but trendy interior, full of light: light walls, large windows. Pleasant terrace in summer.

[edit] Non-Spanish cuisine

  • Al Passatore, two locations near Pla del Palau (M. Barceloneta). Pasta, pizza and risotto in very generous portions for moderate prices. No-frills dishes, but wide choice. Simple interior. For dinner, reservation essential.
  • Betawi a really tasty Indonesian restaurant. Portions aren't huge (average) but they know how to cook meat and fish to perfection. C/Montsio 6. In the Barrio Gotic. 93 412 62 64
  • Born Cooking, Calle Corretger, 9 (Born), 93 310 5999 (fax: 93 319 9905), [9]. Mon to Fri 12AM to 9:30PM, Tue closed, Sat and Sun 11AM to 9:30PM. The local Born bakery with all sorts of North American offerings with chocolate chip cookies, pulled pork and cheesecake on the menu. They offer eat-in service, take-away and catering. edit

Meat main courses: €6(sirloin)-9(entrecot); pasta: €6.5-10; pizza: €6-10; fish main courses: €7.5-9.5. Menu del dia: ? (Mon-Fri)..  edit Menu del dia €9.5 (starter, main course, desert; water / glass of wine or soft drink / bottle of Morritz).  edit Menu del dia: €8.90 (choice of 3 soups, 3 mains, 3 desserts). Soup €4.90 (all you can eat); mains €7.8-16.8; salads €4.30-7.90 (terrace surcharge: +10%; VAT not included).  edit Main courses generally €10-17.  edit

  • Egipte, 79 Las Ramblas (near Bouqueria). Recommended both for a la carte and tapas. Good fixed-price lunch and dinner menu. edit

  • La Locanda in C/Joaquim Pou 4, between Via Laietana and the Cathedral, is a good choice for Italian food lovers. Between Urquinaona and Sant Jaume metro stations.
  • Rosa del Raval, C/dels Àngels, 6 (next to Silenius), 93-304-26-81, [10]. No-frills Mexican eatery, with Europeans-friendly cuisine. Main course up to €10; steaks €9.90.  edit

  • Shunka in C/ Sagristans 5, next to the Cathedral, is one of the most appreciated Japanese restaurants in town. Prior reservation is strongly advised. Between Urquinaona and Sant Jaume metro stations.

[edit] Breakfast

  • Cafe de L'Opera, La Rambla 74, is a marvelous place to have a breakfast with fine strong coffee. The inside features 1920's decor.
  • Pasteleria Escriba, La Rambla 83, a cute little place with great pastries and good coffee. Try the chocolate croissant. Out of this world.

[edit] Splurge

[edit][add listing] Drink

[edit] Cafes

  • L'Antic Teatre, [11] Screens special artistic productions. There is also a small café inside and outside operated by the association which makes for a great break from the noisy Barcelona downtown. It's only a few steps away from the Palau de la Música Catalana.

[edit] Mid-range

  • Otman, C/Cirera 4 (between C/Flassaders and C/Montcada). In the Born, very close to the Picasso museum, this Moroccan designer has a clothes shop where you can have a tea in a`relaxing ambient atmosphere.

[edit] Bars

  • El Bosc de les Fades, off LaRambla. Dubbed the "Tree Bar" by many English speaking tourists. This wax-museum bar features expert-crafted ambiance to look like a forest.
  • Dusk, carrer Merce 23. Sexy bar and bistro inside centuries-old stone walls in Ciutat Vella/Barri Gotic. One block in from the Correos (Big Post Office at the end of Via Laietana), "Dusk" offers an upbeat bar and a more relaxed lounge in the back. It's a perfect place to get a delicious bite to eat to start the night off, or to finish the night with funky music and a Bailey's Martini. Overall, a perfect place to get a taste of both the old Gothic Quarter and the new, hip, contemporary Barcelona.
  • RiBborn, C/Antic de Sant Joan 3, Tel.(+34) 93 310 71 48, [12]. A hip bar in the heart of the Casc Antic, a vibrant section of the Ciutat Vella with a variety of bars and restaurants. RiBborn offers "Funk you till you drop" hiphop jazz reggae and soul with dj Chocolito + guests, Tuesday-Sunday 10PM-3AM. Live music until 1am on most Sundays and the odd weeknight.
  • Travel Bar, C/Boqueria 27 (Going down Les Rambles, the street at the left from the Miró's painting on the floor), [13]. Travel's internet space is a good place to ask and talk with other people visiting Barcelona. Very much a backpackers bar, this is a staple hang-out for many travellers. The Travel Bar has a barcrawl every evening (although it is poorly advertised in the bar - staff 'invite' people they would like to join, otherwise you have to ask), as well as a mean Catalan cooking course. This is a good place to hang out and meet other English speaking people. It does have some decent perks - notably, the one euro meals (again, you have to be in with the bar staff to get this) and the free wi-fi.
  • Harlem, C/Comptessa de Sobradiel (Behind the City Hall, ask there). Live music every night. You must buy at least one drink, but the entrance is usually free.
  • Jazz sí C/Requesens 2 (Near Ronda St. Antoni). Live music every day by the teachers and pupils of the music school next to it. Pop/Rock, Flamenco, Jazz, Latin music etc depending on the day. To get in, it costs 3 euros but you get a drink on arrival.
  • La Fianna, Banys Vells, 15 (Born), +34 93 315 1810 (), [14]. 6PM to 1:30AM Sun to Wed, 6PM to 2:30AM Thurs to Sat. One of the busiest bars in the neighborhood with a funky decor and a large selection of spirits. They also have a great dinner menu with an international selection. edit

 edit

  • Sidecar Factory Club, Plaça Reial 7 / C/Heures 4, (+34) 93 302 15 86, (+34) 933 177 666, [15]. One of the best choices for drinks and music in Casc Antic. Offers live music (4 or 5 nights a week, 10pm-12:30am). Hosts DJ sessions every night (Mon-Sun 12.30am-4.30/5.00am) with DJs of many different styles and from the most important clubs making people dance until the wee hours. Always a good atmosphere.
  • L'Ovella Negra, or the "Black Sheep" is a large dark tavern-like bar. Located in Calle Sitges just off Las Ramblas. You can get cheap and delicious sangria for 10 euros before 23:00 and 13 euros after. Fun to sit around with friends or to partake in a game of futbolina (foosball).

[edit][add listing] Sleep

There are a lot of hotels, hostals, and pensions in Ciutat Vella.

[edit] Hotels

  • Best Western Premier Hotel Regina Bergara 2-4. The Hotel Regina is located next to Plaza Cataluña, right in the heart of Eixample, where the city's two most cosmopolitan avenues begin; Paseo de Gracia and Las Ramblas. About €100 per night for a double room with bath and breakfast.
  • Hotel Barcelona Catedral, Capellans 4. A 4 star boutique hotel located right in the centre, next to the Cathedral, Las Ramblas and the Plaça Catalunya. Offering quality rooms and a personalized service, which creates a relaxing and comfortable stay for business and leisure traveler. Every Sunday they offer free guided cultural walks through the Gothic quarter.
  • Hotel Cuatro Naciones, La Rambla 40, Tel: (+34) 93 317-36-24 [16]. Located on Barcelona's most characteristic avenue (La Rambla), the nerve centre of the city. This historic area is very close to the Cathedral, the Gothic quarter and the harbor, as well as Barcelona's best shopping streets. Rooms varying from single to Quad size. Prices are very modest - starting at 80€ for a double.
  • Grand Hotel Central, Via Laietana 30, +34 93 295 79 00 [17]. Close to the Born district, the Grand Hotel Central is in an elegant building dating back to 1926. The stylish bedrooms are generous in space and comfort and emphasise urban modernity through the use of cool, natural materials. Large windows provide rooms with magnificent views and a lot of natural light.
  • Hotel Lleó, C/ Pelai, 22-24,Tel. +34933181312 Fax. +34934122657 [18]. Hotel Lleo of Barcelona, just two steps from the Rambla, from Plaza Catalunya and from Plaza Universitat, is the ideal solution for both business and tourist stays in central Barcelona.
  • Hotel Lloret, Rambla Canaletes, 125, ES-8002, Tel: (+34) 933173366, Fax: (+34) 933019283 [19]. Cheap hotel in La Rambla Barcelona.
  • Royal Ramblas Hotel. Ramblas 117, Tel, +34 933019400 / http://www.royalramblashotel.com] / e-mail= "info@royalramblashotel.com". A first class hotel with a privileged location right at the top of "Las Ramblas" boulevard, close to Catalunya Square - the business, entertainment and cultural meeting point of Barcelona. The hotel is within walking distance to the most fashionable area in Barcelona for tourism and shopping. The Royal Ramblas is the perfect place to live the real Barcelona experience.
  • The Olivia Plaza Hotelis the most centrally located 4-star hotel in Barcelona, right bang in Plaza Catalunya and just a stones throw from the some of the city's most popular attractions. The hotel offers quality, attentive service and an avant-garde decor to ensure that your stay in the city is an unforgettable one. A perfect choice for those who wish to stay just a few steps away from modernist Barcelona and the best museums, tourist attractions and restaurants, without missing out on all the comforts of a larger hotel. Plaza Catalunya, 19 Phone 34 933168700 Fax: 34 934126376.

[edit] Hostals and Pensions

  • Pension Alamar, [20] is located in the Gothic Quarter, in a quiet pedestrian street near La Rambla. Provides reasonable rates, cosy clean rooms, in a warm family atmosphere.
  • Chic & Basic Tallers, C/Tallers 82 (Plaça Catalunya(L1, L3); Universitat (L1, L2)), [21]. Check in: Reception opens around 9:30am (officially 9:00am). Designer-everything self-service pension with entirely white interiors. Self-service breakfast available 24 hours a day in a common room with kitchen. Add 7% VAT to web site prices.  edit

  • Pension Barcelona City Ramblas, [22]. In the central square of Barcelona with Ramblas street. Clean rooms with shared bathroom.
  • Hostal Campi, [23]. Near Plaza Catalunya and the Rambla. It's a clean, cheap accommodation. Suitable for those on a budget, the single room at 30 euro comes with common toilets and showers.

[edit] Hostels

Increasingly, there are also many Youth Hostels that offer budget accommodation to those who don't mind bunking in a dormitory with other travelers.

  • Alberg Palau [24] carrer Palau, 6 - Tel.(+34) 93 412 5080 and Hostel New York [25] carrer d'en Gignas, 6 - Tel.(+34) 93 315 0304. Two youth hostels in Barcelona's Barri Gottic. Clean and friendly, both hostels include breakfast, internet, kitchen facilities, and a common room; all for under €20 per person.
  • Gothic Point Hostel, +34 93 231 2045 (), [26]. €2 to rent a top sheet or blanket. Free lockers (padlock not included, but on sale in reception for €3). Unique dorm design with wooden cubicules allowing privacy. €17 incl breakfast, internet access, and bottom linen..  edit

  • Itaca hostel is centrally located in the Gothic District, only a stone's throw away from the Cathedral. The beds and bathrooms are clean, and the staff are friendly and helpful. Beds go for around 20 euros a night (depending on the season), breakfast is offered, and there is a kitchen that's open to guests, along with balcony access.
  • Residencia Australia [27] and Hostal Central [28] are located on different floors of Ronda Universitat No 11. Clean, friendly and good value, just off the Plaça de Catalunya. They belong to different owners. En-suite double rooms for around 60 euro. Residencia Australia is more family orientated, they also offer ensuites with kitchenettes and small apartments starting at around 75 euros per night.
  • The Welcome INN, carrer Hospital, 93 Tel.(+34)664 127 664 is an alternative to the typical 'dorm bed' hostel. It offers private rooms (some ensuite doubles,triples,quads) in a large apartment with a modern design and common kitchen and living area. Ideal for backpackers/tourists that want privacy at affordable prices at around 30 euros per person.
  • Hostel Kabul, Plaça Reial, 17, +34(933)185-190 (, fax: +34(933)014-034), [29]. Has increased its prices considerably to capitalise on its location, popularity and positive guidebook write ups. However it remains friendly and is a magnet for young travellers who come for the party atmosphere. Bookings are available through its web site. dorm rooms €24.  edit

[edit] Apartments

  • ramblasrooms.com, carrer Comte Borrell, 41 Tel.(+34)664 127 664. Holiday Apartments in downtown Barcelona: modern apartments with kitchen, living area, terrace. Apts for business visitors, couples, groups, families. Prices from 25€ per person
  • Las Ramblas Bed & Breakfast, Phone +34 695 097 612, [30]. Double from 60eur/50eur high/low season.
This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!
 edit