Banyuwangi
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Banyuwangi is a city in East Java.
[edit] Understand
Banyuwangi is at the easternmost tip of Java and is best known for its ferry connection at Ketapang to Gilimanuk in Bali. This area has a lot more to offer though and it is becoming better known as a visitor destination in its own right. Banyuwangi is also the gateway to some stunning volcanic scenery on the Ijen Plateau as well as the main access point for the Baluran National Park and world renowned surfing at G-Land (Grajagan). To the south east of Banyuwangi lies perhaps the remotest and least populated area of Java which is home to the Alas Purwo National Park.
[edit] Tourist Information Centres
- Banyuwangi Government Culture and Tourism Service, Jl. A. Yani 78, Banyuwangi. Tel: +62 333 424172
- Tourist Information Centre, Ketapang Harbour (ASDP), Jl Gatot Subroto, Ketapang, Banyuwangi.
- Alas Purwo National Park Head Office, Jl A Yani 108, Banyuwangi. Tel: +62 333 428675.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By train
Banyuwangi is the eastern terminus of Java's rail network. There are two trains daily from Surabaya, one of them overnight, the journey taking 6-8 hours.
[edit] By bus
The main bus terminal is Sri Tanjung, 2km north of Ketapang port. Surabaya is 285 km away by road, and buses take about 6 hours.
[edit] By ferry
Ferries run from Gilimanuk in Bali to Ketapang every 30 min, 24 hours a day. The journey takes about 30 minutes, although loading and unloading can take much longer.
Since the onset of terrorist problems in Bali, security is much, much tighter at both ends than it used to be and you should be prepared for some long queues.
[edit] Get around
The main bus station in Banyuwangi is at the Ketapang ferry terminal. From there regular bemos and shuttle buses run into the city (Sri Tanjung terminal) and elsewhwere in the vicinity. Becaks (pedicabs) are widely available in town.
Most surfers heading for G-Land are doing so from Bali and transportation to the camps is pat of their surf package. You can however reach G-Land independently with a bus from Sri Tanjung terminal to Benculuk (about 1 hour) where you change and catch another bus to Grajagan (about 30 minutes).
You can hire private jeeps with or without a driver in Banyuwangi. Vital for independent trips up to the Ijen Crater or for exploring the remote parts of the south eastern coastal parks.
[edit][add listing] See
- Alas Purwo National Park. This is one of the more remote and least populated parks areas of Java, and one which is relatively under-visited due to both the difficulties of getting there and the lack of developed accommodation options. It is also an area of great mystical significance to the Javanese - legend has it that this was the first area of the whole world to emerge from the ocean.
- The park is largely flat with highest peak only 320 metres and covers some 43,000 hectares. There are some beautiful, deserted beaches here as well as large swatches of lowland tropical forest. The world famous G-land surf camp is on the park borders.
- The key access point to the park is the village of Triangulasi which is about 80 km south east of Banyuwangi. Before visiting you should make contact with the national park office in Banyuwangi at Alas Purwo National Park Head Office, Jl A Yani 108, Banyuwangi, tel: +62 333 428675. There is some very basic self-catering hut accommodation at Triangulasi as well as a camping ground and the park office will be able to advise you on this.
- Mammals to be seen inside the park include banteng (the buffalo of Java), asiatic wild dog, leopard cat, muntjac deer and ebony leaf monkey. The park's western beaches are noted turtle hatching areas with olive ridley, hawksbill, green and leatherback turtles all occurring.
- The Ijen Plateau near Banyuwangi and Bondowoso is a less well known but in its own way equally spectacular area of volcanic activity. The Ijen Plateau is the centrepoint of the large mountain range west of Banyuwangi and which abutts the Baluran National Park to the north.
- The Ijen Crater (Kawah Ijen) can be approached from Bondowoso in the west or Banyuwangi in the east. The Bondowoso route is recommended as the road is relatively better (although that is not saying much) and the 90 minute foot climb much easier. From Bondowoso you are best off finding a guide with a car (preferably a 4 x 4) who will drive you through the village of Wonosari and eastwards up a very basic potholled road which winds its way up the mountain. You will pass through native casuarina forest and extensive coffee plantations before the road ends at the village of Jampit where there is some shelter available (Pos Paltuding). If you are travelling late in the day, you could actually bed down with a sleeping bag or camp here as you could in the disused vulcanology station huts slightly further up the mountain. The crater lake is a 90 minute hike further on from here. When you arrive the colour of the water in the lake is scarcely believable being an extraordinary vivid aqua blue. Evidence of volcanic activity is everywhere with steaming water and brilliant yellow crystaline sulphur deposits. Collecting the latter is an industry here and one with extremely harsh working conditions. You will see many workers trudging up and down the mountain carrying sacks of sulphur.
- Many other post-caldera cones and craters are located within the caldera or along its rim. The largest concentration of post-caldera cones forms an E-W-trending zone across the southern side of the caldera. Coffee plantations cover much of the Ijen caldera floor, and tourists are drawn to its waterfalls, hot springs, and dramatic volcanic scenery. The Ijen Crater is certainly one of the great natural wonders of Indonesia.
- Gandrung Dance. This is a highly regarded artform in Banyuwangi and one of the nicknames for the city is actually Gandrung. In Javanese Gandrung means hopelessly in love. The love in this case is directed to Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice. The performance is a homage to Dewi Sri in gratitude for the rice harvest. The performance is a very special cultural event with unique orchestration. Check at the Tourist Information Centre for scheduled performances.
[edit][add listing] Do
- Surf at G-Land (Grajagan Beach) about 60 km south of Banyuwangi. One of the world's most consistent left-hand reefbreaks, Grajagan was first surfed in 1972. A few years later he Australian Boyum bothers built a rickety bamboo treehouse on the beach bordering the remote Alas Purwo National Park on Java's south-east tip and the G-Land surf camp concept was born. These days there are several basic surfcamps between the wild jungle and kilometre-long coral reef. Permission to stay at G-Land must be obtained from the park rangers in advance, which is handled by the surf camp management. The camps offer all inclusive surf packages from 3 days and upwards, details on the following websites:
- G-Land Surf Camp [1]. Also have an office at Okie House, Poppies II, in Kuta, Bali.
- Joyo's G-Land Surf Camp: [2]. Also have an office in Bali at Gang Benesari 77, Poppies II, Kuta, Bali.
- G-Land Bobby's Surf Camp: [3]. Run by a Balinese surfer who took over the original surf camp operation from the Boyum brothers.
[edit][add listing] Buy
- Gallery & Museum Mozes Misdy, Jl Gatot Subroto 119, Ketapang, Banyuwangi, ☎ +62 333 423573. Mozes Midzy is the one of the most renowned Javanese modern artists and he was born in Banyuwangi in 1941. This gallery showcases his work and pieces are available for purchase. edit
[edit][add listing] Eat
Street stall and simple warung food is the go in Banyuwangi and you will find lots of it. Easy to find in the middle of town.
[edit][add listing] Drink
[edit][add listing] Sleep
There is a lot of fairly identikit budget accommodation in Banyuwangi and there are often several well-meaning and well-mannered touts at Ketapang terminal eager to take you to their option. Not such a bad thing to play along - it will cost you little if any, extra.
- Berlin Barat Hotel, Jl Letjen Haryono MT 93, Banjarsari, Glagah, Banyuwangi, ☎ +62 333-421323. Very much aimed at the budget traveller. Good clean rooms arranged around an open courtyard. Western toilets but no hot water. edit
- Ijen Hotel, Desa Licin, Banyuwangi, ☎ +62 858 68611921 (reservation@ijenhotel.com), [4]. A nice hotel which opened in 2005 and one which has considerably increased the tourism potential of the Ijen Plateau. Offers a full range of activities at Ijen including climbing up to the crater, trekking in the foothills, visiting local villages etc. Accommodation consists of bungalows and private villas. Great views throughout this property. edit
- Ketapang Indah Hotel, Jl Gatot Subroto km6, Banyuwangi, ☎ +62 333 422280 (info@ketapangindah.com), [5]. Waterfront cottages only 10 minutes from Ketapang ferry terminal. Good sized swimming pool and restaurant. edit
- Manyar Hotel, Jl Gatot Subroto 74, Banyuwangi (right at Ketapang ferry terminal), ☎ +62 333 424741. This is a rather souless hotel but it is very convenient indeed for a one night stopover before or after taking the the ferry. edit
- Mirah Hotel, Jalan Yos Sudarso, Klatak, Giri, Banyuwangi., ☎ +62 33 3420600 (info@mirahhotel.com). Very conveniently located just minutes south of Ketapang ferry terminal. from Rp 170,000. edit
- Wisma Blambangan, Jl Dr Wahidin Sudirohusodo 4, Karangrejo, Banyuwangi, ☎ +62 333 421598. Budget accommodation in town which is well and truly on the backpacker map. edit
[edit] Contact
The telephone area code for Banyuwangi is 0333.
[edit] Get out
- Baluran National Park is a grassland, forest and coastal park with lovely, deserted beaches.
- Probolinggo on the route to Mount Bromo.
- Sukamade — turtle conservation beach.
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