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The Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun)

Thonburi (ธนบุรี) is the west bank of the Chao Phraya river in Bangkok, Thailand.

[edit] Understand

After the sack of Ayutthaya in 1767, General Phraya Taksin made Thonburi the new capital of Siam for a chief period of time. Unlike Ayutthaya and Rattanakosin, so many battles had to be fought out that Taksin did not have the time and resources to build a new grand capital. It is hard to believe this was once the country's capital, as little archeological structures remain. While Thonburi may not have the major monuments like other former capitals, the district retained an entirely different identity, as it only was officially incorporated in Bangkok in 1971. Therefore, Thonburi stayed less developed than other parts of the city, and several of the traditional small canals still exist here. The cool and peaceful atmosphere, as well as the traditional Thai way of life with floating vendors and orchard farms, make Thonburi a surprisingly fascinating district.

[edit] History

In the Ayutthaya period, this city was named Thonburi Srimahasamut, known by West merchants as “Bangkok”. At that time, the town centers were on both banks of the Chao Phraya River. However, King Rama I established his new capital Krung Thep (the Thai name for Bangkok) on the east side of the river in 1782. Thonburi remained a separate town before being incorporated into the Bangkok metropolitan area in 1972.

During reign of King Chairajathirat of Ayutthaya, a canal about 8-10 meters (26-32 ft) wide was built by his command as a shortcut connecting the Chao Phraya River in the area near Wat Rakhangkositararam, a royal temple near Siriraj Hospital. The strength of the current eroded the canal banks to undermine. As a result, it became a river while some old parts of the Chao Phraya River were narrower and finally they become two canals: the Bangkok-Yai and the Bangkok-Noi which made that area of Bangkok have outs shape as an island. Consequently, there was a hypothesis that the name Bangkok was originated from “Bangkok” which meant “an island community”. However, for those who inhabited on both sides of the Chao Phraya River banks were the people of the same town (Thonburi).

Archeologically, the town center of Thonburi had long been an old town community located at the Old Palace (the Navy Base at present). It used to be a gateway town being called “Tha Khanon”, which meat “tax collecting port” for foreign merchants who sailed in and out of the country. In 1665, there was a Fort, “Vichaiprasit”, built by the command of King Narai the Great of Ayutthaya at the mount of the Bangkok-Yai canal. It was designed and constructed by French architects and engineers and had 200-300 French soldiers graded it. After the death of King Naria, Phra Phetraja, the King who succeeded the thrown had all the French soldiers captured and demolished the fort.

Geographically, Thonburi has an area of only 25 square kilometers (9.7 sq mi). The neighboring province in the North is Nonthaburi, on the West is Nakorn Pathom, the Eastern province is Samutprakran where some parts reach the Gulf of Siam. The East is the Chao Phraya River. Thonburi is in tropical zone; therefore, the weather is hot and humid all year round. Since the land is a delta on the month of the Chao Phraya River, the soil is well fertile, suitable for agriculture. As a result, the old typical careers of the people in Thonburi are agricultures and orchard owner. The land at the mouth of the river where Thonburi is located was once a sea and later became a fertile delta where there are several waterways, which made constructing canals in this area being done easily. Consequently, there are so many canals in Thonburi that this city has been known as “Venice of the East”.

Even though Thonburi was the capital city for only 15 years, this place had long been an old city community which was economically important because it was also a tax collecting gateway town. It has also been a fertile land for agriculture. Moreover, Thonburi has long been a multi-cultural community of different ethnic groups of people: the Chinese, Mon, Indian, Japanese and Dutch merchants since the Ayutthaya period. One of this distinguished proof is a Dutch Warehouse in Bang Pakok district, being called New Amsterdam.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By metro

After nearly ten years of delays, the BTS Skytrain extension across the Chao Phraya to Thonburi finally opened in May 2009. Service is free until August 2009. Still, there are only two stations, neither of which is near anything particularly interesting, so most visitors will find it more useful to get off on the east side at Saphan Taksin and continue by the Chao Phraya River Express boat.

[edit] By train

There are two train stations in Thonburi, both comparatively quiet.

• Thonburi Train Station, formerly known as Bangkok Noi, is the terminus for twice-daily trains to Kanchanaburi. Just to keep things confusing, the previous Thonburi Station right next to the river (accessible by River Express) is now mothballed, but it's only 800 meters away from the new Thonburi, on the east side of Th Arun Amarin.

• Wong Wien Yai station serves only the rustic Mahachai/Maeklong commuter line [1], an experience for rail fans but of little interest to most visitors. Trains run roughly hourly. The railway station is about 800m from the Skytrain station of the same name; to transfer, take a metered taxi for 35-50 baht, or walk.

[edit] By ferry

The Chao Phraya River Express stops at a few points on the Thonburi side, notably at Wat Arun and near the old Thonburi railway station.

[edit] By bus

The Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Taling Chan สายใต้ตลิ่งชัน, tel. +66-2894 6122) is now located on Phutthamonthon Soi 1 in Bang Ramat, Taling Chan, northern Thonburi. Long-distance buses leave from here to destinations throughout western Thailand (including Nakhon Pathom and Kanchanaburi) and southern Thailand (including Krabi, Phuket, Surat Thani, Ko Samui, Ko Phangan, Hat Yai, and many others). The new terminal is a fairly pleasant airport-like structure with air-conditioning, electronic departure monitors (in English), a few bank offices and a KFC. Unlike Khao San Road's ripoff operators, all buses from here are public, well-regulated, cheap and reasonably safe, just buy your tickets at the numbered desk with your destination posted in it (almost always in English).

Getting to the terminal is a bit of headache, as public transport is limited. The easiest option is to take a taxi, but be sure the taxi knows where to go, or you may end up at the old "new" Southern Terminal (Sai Tai Mai), which only stopped operating in late 2008. The new one is located in the same direction, but 4.5 km further from the center (10 km from Khao San road area, about 15 km from Siam square or Silom, more if from Sukhumvit). If you're going there in the evening, especially during workdays, be prepared to a serious traffic jam - more than half or even full hour is not impossible. As always in Bangkok, use taxi meter only, which, from Khao San area, should end up around 120 baht in favorable traffic conditions and up. Ignore touts - the waiting time in taxi-meter is only 1 baht/minute, and there are really no "faster" way once all the roads out of the city are congested.

The terminal is reachable on buses 515 and 549 and from Suvarnabhumi Airport with bus 556. From Victory Monument (Victory Monument BTS station), take the pale orange air-con bus 515 (16 baht). When approached by an onboard bus attendant ticketer, just tell them "Sai Tai Taling Chan". The bus does not turn left or right all the way, the large bus terminal will be on the left side (you won't miss it and probably will be told as well) about 9 km after crossing the river. This way actually does not take much more time than taxi (it's almost same in the likely case of a traffic jam), but you'll end up much cheaper, especially if alone. There are also white "Metro" minibuses (30 baht) from various points around Bangkok, eg. Ramkhamhaeng road in Bang Kapi, Huamark, near the Rajamangala National Stadium. There are inexpensive shuttle buses and slightly more expensive (but quicker loading and a bit faster) minibuses from/to Mo Chit northern bus terminal also.

[edit] Get around

Finding your way around Thonburi is not an easy task. It is a vast district with plenty of neighborhoods that kept their separate identity.

[edit] By canal boat

Hopping on one of the canal boats is the best way to explore the district.

[edit] By car

[edit] On foot

Unlike the rest of Bangkok, Thonburi can hardly be explored on foot. The sights are spread all over the district and most travelers will not feel comfortable walking between them. The major roads near the Chao Phraya river are heavily congested with commuters and it is hard to find the pedestrian bridges over the canals. But it doesn't mean it is not possible at all -- most of the roads can be walked on, and footbridges do exist. It just doesn't make for a nice experience.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Wat Arun

The Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun), Wangderm Road, on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, next to the Navy base. Open from 7AM–5PM. 50 Baht (for foreigners). The highest rank Royal temple is the “most visited” tourist attraction in Thonburi. Easily accessible by a short ferry hop from the Rattanakosin side and hence covered in the Rattanakosin article.

The magnificent pagoda called Phra Prang Wat Arun. Overlooking the Chao Phraya River, it is not only the symbol of Thonburi, but is also a world-famous landmark and one of the most photographed places in Thailand. Thousands of international tourists visit this temple everyday, mostly by boats early in the morning before taking boat trip along the canals to the floating markets and orchards.

The “Prang or pagoda was originally built during the Ayutthaya period and was rebuilt again in the reign of King Rama I. It was completely finished in the reign of King Rama III of the Rattanakosin period. The 67 meter-tall main Prang, surrounded by four direction smaller ones is beautifully decorated with colorful Chinese porcelain pieces. From the main Prang corridor, one can clearly see the view of the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha across the river.

The temple, being rebuilt in late Ayutthaya period, was firstly named Wat Makok, and later changed into Wat Chaeng (Temple of the Dawn). It used to be the Royal temple situated on the same compound of the Original Palace, however with no monk’s residence during the reign of King Tak Sin (1767-1782), and once housed the Emerald Buddha. Beside the famous Prang, be sure to take a look at the main chapel, the image hall, the Chinese style bell tower, and the open pavilions overlooking the river.

There is a pier next to this temple opposite Tha Tien pier in Bangkok. Those who are interested in chartering boats to the canals in Thonburi, are able to find some boats here.

[edit] Temples

• Temple of the Bells (Wat Rakhang), 250 Arunamarin Road. Formerly known as Wat Bang Wa Yai, situated on Arunammarin Road. The front of the temple is on the bank of the Chao Phraya River. This temple was built during the Ayutthaya period, later it was reconstructed and upgraded as a Royal Temple by King Tak Sin. The name "Wat Rakhang" which means "Temple of the Bells", is due to the discovery of a huge bell at this temple in the reign of King Rama I. This significant second category Royal Temple was the residence of many supreme patriarchs of the Rattankosin period including “Somdej Toah”, the highly respected monk in the reign of King Rama V. Things of note are the beautiful mural paintings in the ordination hall, the image hall and the bell tower.

• Wat Kalayanamit, 656 Tesaban 1 Road, is situated on the mouth of Bangkok Yai canal on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River opposite Rajinee School. It is also close to Kudichin old community and Santa Cruz Church. This Royal Temple was named after Chao Phraya Nikornbodin (Toah Kalayanamit), a noble man of King Rama III who donated his own residence and bought a piece of land to built a temple. Wat Kalayanamit is well known for a large Buddha image named “Phraputtatrirattananayok”, which is 15.44 meter tall and 11.75 meter wide. This image is also called "Sampokong" by the Chinese-Thai race worshippers. Every day during the Chinese New Year festival, this temple is crowded by thousands of the Chinese Thai visitors. Other interesting items in this temple are the Chinese style ordination hall, which was the previous residence of Chao Phraya River.

• Wat Intrawat, a temple located on Thanon Wat Inthrawat road and a canal, in the Bang Phrom section of the Taling Chan district, is up the road from the nearby "open" market in (nearby) Bang Ramat.

• Wat Kok Poe Ram, a temple located on a side road of Phutthamonthon Sai 1 road, in the Taling Chan district.

• Wat Poe, a temple located on Phutthamonthon Sai 1 road in the Bang Ramat section of the Taling Chan district, near the Southern Bus Terminal ("Sai Tai Mai").

• Wat Prayoon, beautiful white temple at the Chao Phraya river. It can best be photographed from the Memorial Bridge at dusk or night, when it is illuminated. Before 5PM, you might want to visit the Khao Mor Cemetery next to it, as it is an interesting walk up a hill.

• Wat Suwannaram, 33 Charansaniwong Road. A big Royal Temple on the banks of the Bangkok noi canal built during the reign of King Rama I and renovated during the reign of King Rama III. Inside are murals depicting the Jutaku, deities and the Buddha image in subduing the mara posture. These works of art of the early Rattanakosin period (19th century) are considered as the best survival mural paintings in Bangkok.

[edit] Museums

• Bangkok Noi Museum.

• House of Museums (บ้านพิพิธภัณฑ์) The House of Museums is located at 170/17 Mu 17, Khlong Pho Land, Soi Khlong Pho 2, Sala Thammasop Road, Thawi Watthana, Bangkok 10170. It is accessible by driving along Phutthamonthon Sai 2 Road toward the railway track or Khlong Maha Sawat. At the end of the road, turn left onto Sala Thammasop Road and follow the sign to the museum. The exhibition features a collection of old as well as modern items of various uses of both townspeople and villagers such as toys, books, stationery and kitchen and household utensils, forming a legacy of the past to be inherited by the present. The modern 3½-storey building of 3 chambers covers a total area of 232 square metres. The first floor lends an old atmosphere of shop houses before 1957 including a café, drugstore, barber’s, etc. There are rooms displaying alternate exhibitions on various topics, as well. Open: Sat-Sun from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission: Adult 30 baht, Child 10 baht. Tel: 08 9666 2008, 08 9200 2803.

• Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Anthropology Centre (ศูนย์มานุษยวิทยาสิรินธร) Located on Borom Ratchonnani Road beyond the Southern Bus Terminal, this centre is a national institution responsible for systematic gathering processing and servicing of anthropological data scattered throughout the country. A variety of exhibitions on Social and Cultural Development in Thailand, Ethno-Archaeology, Thai Ceramic Collections, as well as the Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn’s Biography can be viewed.

Open: Mon- Sat from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Admission: Free, Tel: 0 2880 9429 www.sac.or.th

• Royal Barge National Museum (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติเรือพระราชพิธี), 0 2424 0004, on the mouth of Khlong Bangkok Noi, walk from the Phra Pinklao bridge. Daily 9AM-5PM. This place displays several Royal Barges, and their ornaments used for waterborne state ceremonies. The ornately carved barges were crafted in the early centuries, taking the form of famous mythical creatures of the Ramayana epic. The most impressive is the Suphannahongse or Golden Swan, the red and gold Royal river procession for the Kathin (robe presenting ceremony) at Wat Arun. To Reach the museum you have to walk through an alley that snakes through a residential neighborhood. Simply follow the signs until you reach the museum and you won't get lost. B100, B200 if you want to bring a camera with you.

• Siriraj Museum, (พิพิธภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศิริราช), Tel. 0 2419 7000 ext. 6363, M-Sa 9AM-4PM, Located on the 2nd floor of the Adulyadej Vikrom Building inside Siriraj Hospital, Thailand’s first medical institute. The museum comprises the Congdon Anatomical Museum, Songkran Niyomsane Forensic Medicine Museum, Prehistoric Museum, Pathology Museum and Traditional Thai Medicines Museum. The museums are old and dusty with little English signs, but still some foreigners like to visit them, especially the Forensic Medicine Museum for it's creepy collection of medical oddities similar to the Mütter Museum in Philadelphia. 40B.

• Sunthorn Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์สุนทร) [2] Situated at 82/10 Sukhaphiban 1 (off Phetkasem Road near Lotus Supermarket), this is a private museum operated by Mr. Sunthorn Chunothaisawat. It houses invaluable antiques from different periods such as BMW Motorcycles in the World War Periods, various types of old clock, lamps, children toys made out of zinc, Raios, Irons, type writers, Fans and sewing machines which are still maintained in good condition.

Open: Sat from 11 a.m.to 5 p.m., Admission: 200 baht, Tel: 0 2802 0863-4

[edit] Parks and monuments

• King Taksin the Great Monument (พระบรมราชานุสาวรีย์พระเจ้าตากสินมหาราช). This is an equestrian statue situated at Wongwian Yai Circle on Prachathipok Road. The king is portrayed with his right hand holding a sword, measuring approximately 9 metres in height from his horse’s feet to the spire of his hat. The statue rests on a reinforced concrete pedestal of 8.90 x 1.80 x 3.90 metres. There are four frames of stucco relief on the two sides of the pedestal. The opening ceremony of this monument was held on 17 April, 1954 and a homage-paying fair takes place annually on 28 December. Open: Daily, Admission: Free.

• Princess Mother Memorial Park (อุทยานเฉลิมพระเกียรติสมเด็จพระศรีนครินทราบรมราชชนนี) [3] This beautiful park is on Soi 3 Somdet Chao Phraya Road, Khlong San District. It was built near the Wat Anongkharam community where Somdej Phra Srinagarindra Boromarajajonani, HRH the Princess Mother (mother of King Rama IX) had resided during her childhood. The park comprises a full scale model of the Princess Mother’s house and the old buildings renovated as exhibition halls displaying the life story of Her Royal Highness the Princess Mother as well as the history of the Wat Anongkharam community. Open: Garden - Daily from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. (except public holidays). Museum – Daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission: Free. Tel: 0 2437 7799, 0 2439 0902.

[edit] Other

• Santa Cruz Cathedral, 112 Tesaban 1 Road. Also known as “Wat Kudichin” overlooking the Chao Phraya River, near Memorial Bridge and Wat Kalayanamit. This is the first Catholic Church in Thonburi. The church building has a magnificent Italian-style architecture built in 1816. The word “Santa Cruz” in Portuguese is taken from Latin words “Sanctus Crux” which means “the Holy Cross”. The reason this cathedral takes both the Portuguese and the Chinese names was due to the war with the Burmese in 1767 when King Tak Sin commanded to gather the people who had escaped from the war to settle down in the capital. The King dictated that the Chinese group who migrated from Ayutthaya settle down around the area of Wat Kalayanamit while the Portuguese people would have their houses built along the bank of the Chao Phraya River. The Portuguese who settled her were called “Farang Kudichin” which means “Westerners at the Chinese shrine”. This area is an old community, also being the birthplace of a kind of famous cupcake, “Khanom Farank Kudichin”.

• Snake Farm, Shake Farm, 35 minutes from Wat Sai floating market is another stop for sightseeing and watching a snake show. The farm is open daily from 8:30AM–5PM.

• Pom Wichai Prasit Fort.

[edit][add listing] Do

Taking a canal tour through Thonburi is the best way to explore the area, and many foreigners do it. The trips are easily arranged for a group of 10 tourists or more by chartering a boat along the canals to visit orchards and the floating market. The most convenient place to charter a boat is at Tha Chang Pier or Tha Tien Pier in front of Wat Aurn (Temple of the Down). However, for tourists from Bangkok, a boat service is operated every morning from 6.30 a.m. The boats depart from Tha Cang pier every half an hour unit 11.00 a.m. They leave the pier when there are enough passengers. Boat fare is 30 bath per person. Major canals in Thonburi which tourists can take boat trip to are Klong Bangkok Noi, Klong Bag Yai, Klong Daan, Klong Chakphra, etc. B1000-1500.

• The Chao Phraya River & Bangkok’s Canals (Khlongs) Nineteenth-century Bangkok was laced with canals, giving the capital the designation ‘Venice of the East’. Surviving canals and the Chao Phraya River provide memorable vignettes of traditional waterborne way-of-life that has remained essentially unchanged over the centuries. The river and canals may be conveniently explored by chartered boat from Tha Chang (Chao Phraya Express Boat Tel: 0 2222 5330, 0 2225 3003 or www.chaophrayaboat.co.th, Mit Chao Phraya Tel: 0 2225 6179, 0 2221 2297), a pier near the Grand Palace, or Tha Si Phraya (Si Phraya Boat Trip.Co.th Tel: 0 2235 3108) near the River City Shopping Complex. Tourists can also book such a tour through travel agents.

• Patravadi Theatre (ภัทราวดีเธียเตอร์), 69/1 Soi, Wat Rakhang (near the Rakhang temple in Thon Buri), ☎ 0 2412 7287-8, [4]. Showtime is on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Renowned for its lavish productions, this outdoor theatre has gained popularity through its modern adaptations of classical Asian literature, with each play demonstrating an ingenious blend of various theatrical techniques  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

[edit] Floating Markets

• Bang Ramat Floating Market. A major attraction, with a pleasant and shaded atmosphere, is by a canal on Bang Ramat road, in the Bang Ramat section of Taling Chan. Although this relatively-new floating market is not frequently visited by boats, it does have many shop stalls, a small boat museum, several walking paths (around the market), small restroom facilities, a few outdoor restaurants, and a variety of foods and merchandise for sale. Occasionally, it does feature live outdoor performances by local children and/or organizations. It is only open on Sundays and easily accessible (and used as a prolonged stopover) on some tourist tour boats from Taling Chan Floating Market.
• Taling Chan Floating Market. This major attraction along Chak Phra canal is held every weekend. It is more convenient than taking a Khlong trip to Wat Sai. Boat and stalls gather here selling a variety of food. Opened on the weekends (Saturdays and Sundays). Also, it is accessible by road, not too far from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai).
• Wat Sai Floating Market.

[edit] Markets

• Bang Ramat Market. A local 'outdoor' marketplace, filled with food, refreshments, clothing, souvenirs, and miscellaneous items, by various independent local vendors. Opened from the afternoon till late night, 7 days of the week. However, it's best to visit the market in the middle of the afternoon. The market has a variety of clothes for sale, new and used, Western and Eastern style. Also for sale are CDs/DVDs/VCDs, children's toys, phone accessories, purses, weapons (handguns, hunting knifes, ammunition), toiletries, ceremonial gifts, souvenirs and other small accessories. Children can go to the large inflatable playpen. Popular and well-known to locals, but barely-known or visited by tourists.
• Bang Phrom Market. Located near the road intersection of Wat Kaeo-Phutthamonthon Sai 1 and Thanon Kaeo Ngoen Thong, in the Bang Phrom sub-district, is an local 'outdoor' marketplace, similar to the one in Bang Ramat, but slightly larger, busier, and more crowded.
• Wang Lang Market. Wang Lang is a small street filled with plenty of small shops and carts. Sometimes called the Ladies Market, there is a heavy emphasis on women's clothes, shoes, bags and accessories. Just wonder around and try to find the cheap gem you're looking for. Especially around 1PM it is very crowded and it might be hard to find your way around. Wednesdays is the best day to go, as then the new second hand products arrive, but the market is alive any day of the week. To get there, take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Prannok pier or the ferry boat and Wang Lang (Siriraj) pier.

[edit] Malls

• Central Plaza Pinklao (Borommaratchachonnani Road, Arun-Amarin) The largest shopping mall and office tower complex of Thonburi, it includes 6 floors (with a basement floor), which features stores, shop stalls, restaurants, banks and a karaoke lounge. Some of the stores include ASA Services (key duplicating and shoe repairs), B2S (books, music and stationary), Fixit (clothes fixing), Marks & Spencer (European-style clothing), Powerbuy (electronics), Thai Ticket Master (performance tickets), Wash Me (laundry) and Western Union (money exchange and transfers). The easiest way to get there is by taxi, though there are also some buses and songthaews available.
• Major Cineplex Pinklao (7/1 Borommaratchachonnani Road, Arun-Amarin) Across the road from the Central (Pinklao) shopping complex, it's easily accessible by a pedestrian footbridge. It features several floors of stores, shop stalls, restaurants, and a large movie theater (split into two separate floors).
• Makro Supercenter (521/27 Charansanitwongse Road , Bangkunsri) An indoor shopping complex, which features the European-style wholesale club retail supermarket Makro, a cafeteria, a bank, and some shop stalls.
• Tesco Lotus Supercenter (3 Baromraj-Chonnanee Rd., Arun-Amarin) A big indoor complex featuring a Walmart-style supermarket. You can also find a Dunkin' Donuts here, a pharmacy, several restaurants and other small shops.
• The Mall Bang Khae. A large shopping mall complex, which features many floors of stores, shop stalls, restaurants, and a movie theater. It is located down the street from Kasemrad Hospital.

[edit][add listing] Eat

If you're hungry, you can visit 7-Eleven 24 hours a day as they are spread all over Thonburi. There's one branch on Wang Lang, three on Prannok, one in Bang Ramat, one in Bang Phrom and one near Central Plaza Pinklao. For other chain stores, like Starbucks, Swensens, Sizzler, Auntie Annie's, Baskin Robins and McDonald's, head to Central Plaza Pinklao.

If you want to eat like the locals, or if you are on a budget, head for the Wang Lang area. Many unnamed restaurants and carts can be found there, selling meals for around B40. Wang Lang is one of the best places in Bangkok to eat dishes from Southern Thailand. It is said that southern Thais settled in the area, because trains from the south arrive at the Thonburi railway station nearby.

[edit] Budget

• Butterfly, 77-1 Wang Lang (In the alley between Wang Lang and Prannok). This is not a no-name restaurant, but the purple-white sign (with butterfly icon) is only in Thai, as well as the menus, so be ready to have a phrasebook. They serve the general Thai dishes. B50.  edit

• Som Tam (ส้มตำ), 91/17 Wang Lang (5 stores right from 7 Eleven), ☎ +66 8 7496 8291. 7AM-6PM. Cheap street restaurant for Isaan food (from the northeast of Thailand). Obviously try the som tam (papaya salad) with some sticky rice, and get some chicken and soup. No English signs, and the staff doesn't speak English, so a phrasebook will come in handy. B40-120.  edit

• Southern Thailand (เพ๊อนโขย), 77-9 Wang Lang (When entering the Prannok-Wang Lang alley from Wang Lang, it's the first store to the left), ☎ +66 8 5132 9585. 8AM-4PM. This street restaurant sells food from the South of Thailand. They do not speak English, but you can just point to the dishes you want to eat. There is also no sign up, so follow the directions described. B40.  edit

• Zoom4 Zoom5, Wang Lang (Inside Wang Lang (Siriraj) Pier), ☎ +66 2 226 1745. daily 4PM-10PM. This cheap restaurant is highly recommended for it's cheap menus and great view. Especially when it's dark, there is a great view over the Chao Phraya river, with many of Bangkok's highlights well lit, like the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and Wat Kalayanamit. It's self-service, so you must walk to the counter yourself and make the order. The menu is in English, make sure to try the fried rice with maggie sauce and fried chicken (or fish) or the fried rice with thai chilli paste and fried chicken. If you have a big appetite, also order the fried minced shrimp cakes. It's good. B40.  edit

• Ezee Grill, 105 Wang Lang, ☎ +66 8 4697 0363. noon-9PM. Generic steak restaurant, but it looks more professional and cleaner than the other restaurants around Wang Lang market. B70-120.  edit

• Siriraj A' La Carte, 77-7 Wang Lang (In the alley between Wang Lang and Prannok), ☎ +66 2 412 2074. 11AM-8PM. Only recently opened, it looks more professional than the nameless restaurants in the area. Try the Paella, a Spanish menu, but cooked the Thai way. B50-70.  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Supatra River House, 266 Soi Wat Rakhang (Also a boat service directly from Wat Mahathat Rd in Rattanakosin), ☎ +66 2 411 0305, [5]. Luxury restaurant with Thai and seafood dishes. River view at the Chao Phraya river.  edit

[edit] Other

• Bang Ramat Food, Many traditional Thai cuisines, Thai and Western -style desserts, and refreshments. Very reasonably priced, most items costing between 10 to 25 Baht.

• noodle soup shop (restaurant), on the corner of Phutthamonthon Sai 1 road and an undisclosed road?, opposite street from Ban Suan Phutthamonthon road, (same side) as a nearby school & Wat Poe (temple), Bang Ramat, Taling Chan. An outdoor (but shaded) restaurant with a cozy outdoor atmosphere and plenty of tables and seats. It serves authentic Thai noodle soup of several different varieties, Thai and Western -style desserts, etc. Open in the afternoon and into nighttime.

• rice soup shop (restaurant/shop), near the corner of Phutthamonthon Sai 1 road and Wat Kaeo-Phutthamonthon Sai 1 road, Bang Phrom, Taling Chan. A small outdoor restaurant offering authentic Thai-style rice soup (served warm/hot). Open in the afternoon and into nighttime. Note: An easily walkable distance down Phutthamonthon Sai 1 road, from Bang Ramat's local 'outdoor' marketplace.

• The Terrace Restaurant (restaurant), at Central Plaza Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Arun Amarin, Bangkok Noi. Open during shopping mall hours.

[edit] Chain stores

• Auntie Anne's (American fast-food restaurant), (2 locations) at Central Plaza Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Arun Amarin, Bangkok Noi. Open during shopping mall hours.

• Baskin Robbins (American fast-food dessert), at Central Plaza Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Arun Amarin, Bangkok Noi. Open during shopping mall hours.

• Grand Italia Ice Cream (fast-food dessert), at Central Plaza Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Arun Amarin, Bangkok Noi. Open during shopping mall hours.

• Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) (American fast-food restaurant) At the Southern Bus Terminal ("Sai Tai Mai"), Bang Ramat?, Taling Chan, and at Central Plaza Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Arun Amarin, Bangkok Noi. Open during shopping mall hours, and at the Major Cineplex Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Bang Bumru, Bang Phlat. Open during shopping mall hours? .

• McDonald's (American fast-food restaurant), at the Major Cineplex Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Bang Bumru, Bang Phlat. Open during shopping mall hours?.

• Mister Donut (fast-food dessert restaurant), at Central Plaza Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Arun Amarin, Bangkok Noi. Open during shopping mall hours.

• MK (restaurant), at Central Plaza Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Arun Amarin, Bangkok Noi. Open during shopping mall hours.

• S&P (bakery & restaurant, at the Major Cineplex Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Bang Bumru, Bang Phlat. Open during shopping mall hours.

• Swensen's (American dessert restaurant), at Central Plaza Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Arun Amarin, Bangkok Noi. Open during shopping mall hours.

• Sizzler (American restaurant, with an open food bar), at the Major Cineplex Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Bang Bumru, Bang Phlat. Open during shopping mall hours.

• TOPS Supermarket (supermarket), at Central Plaza Pinklao, Borommaratchachonanni highway road, Arun Amarin, Bangkok Noi. Open during shopping mall hours.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Do not expect any nightlife in Thonburi — for that, all other districts of Bangkok do a better job. But while roaming through, you might be up for a cup of coffee or some iced chocolate. Central Plaza Pinklao is an obvious choice, as the chain stores Coffee World, Mezzo and Starbucks can be found there. But you might also want to sip a cup at one of the numerous smaller coffee houses.

• Coffeepoint, Wang Lang Pier. Mostly for coffee to-go, but they also have tasty chocolate with cream. You can sit upstairs and enjoy the view over the river. B50.  edit

• Coffee Station, Wang Lang (Siriraj) Pier.  edit

• The Corner CoffeeShop & Internet, 203 Prannok (At the corner of Prannok Rd and Arun-Amarin Rd), ☎ +66 2 411 20 71. 8AM-7PM. A decent place for a cup of coffee or iced chocolate - especially nice with some cream! The only downside is the massive road traffic ruining the atmosphere a bit. It is the only decent place in the area to go online for B15 per hour. B40.  edit

• Miss Lee Bakery & Coffee, Prannok Rd, ☎ +66 2 412 71 71. Nice place to sit down and have a cup of coffee. You can also choose one of their delicious pies. B50.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

• Marriott Resort and Spa, 257 Charoennakorn Road, Samrae, Thonburi, ☎ +66 2-476-0022, [6]. The ambience of a resort hotel yet only a short hop from the city. Shuttle boat to BTS Saphan Taksin every 15 min.  edit

• Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Th Charoennakorn, tel. +66 2861 2888, [7]. Just across the river from the Oriental hotel, this is a worthy competitor for being one of the world's best hotels. Prices are a little more sensible though, but still usually above $200. Free shuttle service to the BTS Saphan Taksin stop.

• PSB Apartment, 376/3 Soi Wat Rakhang (Near Wang Lang Pier), ☎ +66 2 412 9316 or +66 2 412 7823 (office hours only). Not a hotel, but a serviced apartment. It has a wonderful view over the Chao Phraya river, right in front of the illuminated Grand Palace, and is also right beside the Wang Lang Market. Fully furnished, 24-hour security, kitchen, air coniditioning, long-distance service, maid & laundry. Studio B7,500/month, 1-2 bedrooms with refrigerator B15,000-25,000/month.  edit

• River Side Bangkok [8] 195 Ratwithi Road, Bangkok Noi, tel: +66 2-883-1588 ext. 20. Situated by the edge of the Chao Phraya river, near the Krung Thon bridge, and Highway 341.

• The Royal River Hotel [9] 219 Soi Charansanitwong 66/1, Charansanitwong Road, Bangplad, tel: +66 2-435-8888 fax: +66 2-434-3636 E-mail: info@royalcityhotel.com[10]. An international first-class hotel situated by the edge of the Chao Phraya river, near the Krung Thon bridge, and Highway 341.

• Sivalai Place[11]:168 Isaraphab Soi 33 Isaraphab rd, Thra Pra. tel: +66 2-412-4000 ext. 201 or +66 2-864-1251-2 fax: +66 2-418-5184 For reservation: sivalai.place@hotmail.com[12]. Fully-furnished apartments for rent for short term and long term stay.
• Millennium Hilton, 123 Th Charoennakorn, ☎ +66 2 4422000, [13].  edit

[edit] Cope

Many locals commute from the Wang Lang, and it is good area for the daily necessities. The alley between Wang Lang and Prannok is a good start. Plenty of hairdressers can be found here, most haircuts do not cost more than B100-150. In the middle of the alley, you will find a woman repairing clothes for around B20-50. For a shoes and bags repairer, you will need to walk onto Prannok Rd and from there cross Arun Amarin Rd. Walk on for 2 minutes (crossing the dirty canal) and at the left side, you will find a small store with two skilled workers, who even use fire to fix bags (around B100 per bag).

• 3 Diamonds Pharmacy, 157/1 Prannok Rd, ☎ +66 0 12 502 662 (fax: +66 0 28 66 1434). 7.30AM-8.30PM. A big and usually very crowded pharmacy opposite Siriraj Hospital. Although the English sign at the front is small, the staff speaks English a lot better than elsewhere in the area. Besides, there are so many people working there, there's always someone to help you.  edit

• Launder Care (ชักอบรีด), 933/2 Prannok Rd, ☎ +66 2 866 24 69. 7AM-8PM. Pretty much the only place to do laundry in the Wang Lang area.  edit

• Sahaphan, Wang Lang (In the small alley between Prannok and Wang Lang). Small copyshop where the staff will do the copy work for you. You can even rent full books from a library and let them duplicate the whole book for around B400.  edit

• Siriraj Hospital, 2 Prannok Road, ☎ +66 2 419 70 00 (fax: +66 2 412 19 95), [14]. Thailand's oldest hospital, it is a huge complex part of the Faculty of Medicine of Mahidol University. It is one of the most congested public hospitals of Bangkok, a private hospital is probably a better choice for foreigners.  edit

• Thonburi Hospital, 34/1 Isarapab Soi 44 Banchanglor, ☎ +66 2 41 20 020 (fax: +66 2 41 29 575), [15]. Private hospital where you can even go to for smaller sicknesses like food poisoning and respiratory infections. When you enter the hospital, you need to register at the counter and you will get a Thonburi Hospital card. The hospital looks clean and professional, but the English level of the doctors is not impressive.  edit