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Rattanakosin is the core of historical Bangkok.

Statues in Wat Ratchanatdaram

[edit] Understand

The historic center of Bangkok, Rattanakosin Island is where King Rama I built his new capital in 1782. Home to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, among others, this is where most of Bangkok's 'must see' sights can be found. The focal point of the area are the wide open Royal Grounds (Sanam Luang), the site of many ceremonies and festivals associated with the royal family. Surrounding these grounds are the dozens of traditional temples, palaces, parks, museums and monuments the area is rich.

The district extends north into an area called Dusit, a leafy European-style area and the political center of Thailand since King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) built his private palace there in the 1900s. The seat of power to this day, it feels remarkably different from Rattanakosin Island with it's broad avenues and breezy environments. The National Parliament and the Government House can be found here, as well as to the Chitrlada Palace, the current residence of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX).

• Bangkok Tourist Information Office, 17/1 Phra Athit Road (Under the Pinklao Bridge), ☎ +66 2 225 7612 (fax: +66 2 225 7615 6), [1]. It's a good idea to stop by the tourist office for some maps of the city. You can also get hotel and dining addresses here or ask any other questions you may have.  edit

[edit] Get in

The BTS and Metro do not connect to Rattanakosin yet, although the Metro's southern terminus at Hualamphong Station is within striking distance of Chinatown. For time being, your options are to either take a taxi, or use the boats:

[edit] By boat

The best way to get in Rattanakosin is by Chao Phraya Express Boat. You can get there by taking the Skytrain to the Saphan Taksin station and then head your way up the river. Tha Chang is the closest pier to the Grand Palace, with only a 5 minutes walk. Tha Tien is the closest pier to Wat Pho, and you can take a 3-baht ferry shuttle across the Thonburi side of the river to Wat Arun.

Alternatively, you can take the Saen Saep Express Boat to its western terminus near the Golden Mount (Wat Saket), from where the big temples are a brisk stroll or short tuk-tuk hop away.

[edit] On foot

The Grand Palace and Wat Pho are a 20 minute walk from Khao San Road, but a confusing and hot one if you aren't familiar with the area.

[edit][add listing] See

Rattanakosin has a lot to see and the top three attractions are conveniently clustered right next to each other. For all temples, bear in mind that you must be dressed appropriately (no shorts, no flipflops, no sleeveless shirts) or risk being denied entry, although some places will offer rental parachute pants for a small (refundable) deposit.

Whether you walk or take a tuk-tuk, don't listen to anyone telling you the temples are closed for a 'Buddhist holiday', that they're only open in the afternoon because the monks are praying, or anything else along those lines. The Grand Palace and Wat Pho are open every day, pretty much all day (dawn till dusk). It's worth giving both the Grand Palace and Wat Pho each a full day since the heat and glare are very wearing and there is a lot to take in.

[edit] Grand Palace

Chakri Maha Prasat Hall at the Grand Palace

Inside Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Scenes from the Ramayana inside Wat Phra Kaew

Map of Wat Phra Kaew

Bangkok's most popular tourist attraction, the Grand Palace (พระบรมมหาราชวัง Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang) [2] is the former residence of the King and built adjacent to and more or less integrated with the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew). Combined entry is a steep 350 baht, plus an optional 200 baht for an audio guide (for two hours) in English, French, German, Spanish, Russian, Mandarin, Japanese or Thai; Thais get in for free. Your ticket also includes entry into the Vimanmek Mansion and Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall (outside the compound in the Dusit area) and the Royal Pavilion (on palace grounds). The palace is open every day from 8.30AM to 3.30PM (some parts stay open until 4.00PM); do not believe any scammers who attempt to convince you otherwise. It can get very crowded (and hot) once the tour buses start to roll in, so getting an early start is a good idea! There are free English tours four times a day, look for the sign just after you pass the ticket gate. But the palace grounds can also be easily explored on your own.

The palace was originally built together with the establishment of Bangkok (Krung Rattanakosin) by King Rama I the Great and has been expanded ever since. It covers a wide range of architectural styles, ranging from the pure Ayutthayan style of the temples to a blend of Thai and Western for the later structures. Today, the complex covers a total area of 132 rai and comprises 3 major quarters; namely, Phra Maha Prasat – the throne halls, Phra Ratchamonthian Sathan – royal residences and Wat Phra Keow – the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. While the king no longer lives here, a large part of the complex is used for ceremonies and is off-limits to tourists.

Visitors to the Palace are corralled along a set route. In order, the main buildings you will see are:

• Wat Phra Kaew, or formally Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram (วัดพระศรีรัตนศาสดารามหรือวัดพระแก้ว). Best known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaeo is a royal temple situated on the northeastern corner of the Grand Palace compound. The temple houses a diminutive jade statue, the Emerald Buddha, of uncertain but long provenance and revered as the symbol of the Thai state. It originally surfaced in northern Thailand, was taken to Vientiane for a while, and was returned to Bangkok after the Thais sacked the city in 1828. Visitors line up around the building for a chance to walk by the Emerald Buddha with offerings of lilies and incense. You must take off your shoes, and absolutely no photography is permitted inside. The Buddha's clothing is changed three times a year depending on the season; you can see the other outfits in the Treasury Museum. The wat is actually series of courtyards full of chedi towers in gold and broken porcelain and smaller wats containing Buddhas of various poise and size. Also check out the enormous mural of the Ramayana decorating the exterior wall. The construction of the temple was completed in 1784, and it has consistently undergone several times of restoration from the reign of King Rama I through to the reign of King Rama IX. The temple’s ordination hall – Phra Ubosot – and enclosing cloister house fine murals. Other interesting structures include a group of 8 Prang towers, Phra Si Rattana Chedi, a model of Angkor Wat, Prasat Phra Thepbidon, etc.

• Phra Thinang Dusit Maha Prasat (พระที่นั่งดุสิตมหาปราสาท), formerly named as Phra Thinang Inthraphisek Maha Prasat, is the first throne hall to have been constructed within the Grand Palace to house royal remains of the kings, queens and members of the royal family. It is also for use in major royal ceremonies such as auspicious rites and merit-making.

• Phra Thinang Aphonphimok Prasat (พระที่นั่งอาภรณ์พิโมกข์ปราสาท), located near Phra Thinang Dusit Maha Prasat served as the king’s mounting platform as well as dressing area for a royal procession.

• Phra Thinang Phiman Rattaya (พระที่นั่งพิมานรัตยา), established in 1789 and served as the king’s royal chamber as well as assembly hall for members of the royal family and audience hall for ladies of the court to receive royal decorations and title’s paraphernalia in the reign of King Rama VI. It was also where the bathing ceremony for royal remains of the members of the royal family before the urn would be placed inside the Phra Thinang Dusit Maha Prasat.

• Phra Thinang Chakri Maha Prasat (พระที่นั่งจักรีมหาปราสาท), built in the reign of King Rama V in 1876 to receive royal guests who were monarchs or heads of state. Built in a very European style, but with a Thai roof somewhat incongruously plopped on top.

There are also several other principal throne halls such as Phra Thinang Ratchakaranyasapha, Phra Thinang Munlasathan Boromma-at, Phra Thinang Sommutithewarat Upbat, Phra Thinang Borommaratchasathit Mahoran, Phra Thinang Chakraphatdi Phiman, Phra Thinang Phaisan Thaksin, etc.

After leaving Chakri Maha Prasat and the Palace's entry gate is in sight, turn right, double back past the ticket counters and pay a visit to the Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Thai Coins (free entry with your ticket). Not only is it air-conditioned, but it houses an impressive array of gold jewelry, weaponry, coins and gives some insight into the evolution of the dynasty and its elaborate royal ceremonies. A highlight are the seasonal "clothes" of the Emerald Buddha, ranging from a warm winter wrap to a minimalistic ensemble for summer.

[edit] Temples

• Temple of Dawn (วัดอรุณ Wat Arun), 34 Arun-Amarin Rd (Take the cross-river ferry from Tha Tian Pier), [3]. As it is located on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya river, you can find more information in that district article. It can most easily be accessed using the 3-baht ferry from Tha Tien Pier (near Wat Pho) at the Rattanakosin side of the river. The temple is a distinctive single spike intricately inlaid with white broken porcelain. At 88 meters it was also the tallest structure in Bangkok until the advent of the modern skyscraper. B50.  edit

• Temple of the Reclining Buddha (วัดโพธิ์ Wat Pho), Mahathat Rd (Tha Tian Pier), ☎ +66 2 225 9595, [4]. daily 8AM-5PM. A 15 minutes walk south of the Grand Palace, Wat Pho is touted as housing the largest reclining Buddha in the world — gold plated, 46 metres long, 15 metres high, with inlaid mother of pearl soles. It is an impressive sight and considered one of the must-sees of Bangkok. It is one of the largest temples of Bangkok with 80.000 square meters, and the home to more than 1000 Buddha images. On the back side of the statue, you can buy a bag of 50 satang coins and plunk them one by one into the row of copper pots for good luck. There's plenty of other sights and activities inside the large temple complex; above all, try a massage or sign up for a course in the massage school at the back (as described in the Do section). B50.  edit

• Wat Saket and the Golden Mount (วัดสระเกศและภูเขาทอง), ☎ +66 2 233 4561. daily 8AM-9PM. Wat Saket's major feature is the Golden Mount, an artificial hill dating from the early 19th century. A huge chedi was built on top of the hill in the reign of King Rama III, but it collapsed during the construction process as the soil beneath could not support it. Under the reign of Rama IV, construction started on a more modest chedi. The structure was completed during the reign of Rama V at the end of the century and was enhanced in order to accommodate relics of the Buddha presented to the King of Thailand by the British Viceroy in India. A spiral staircase of 318 steps leads from the ground to a terrace and shrine-room - the Buddha's relics are housed in a gold-leaf covered shrine at the center of this area. Note that while the shrine itself is an ancient structure that creates an atmosphere worthy of respect, the area just below is more akin to a tacky fair ground than one that leads to one of the nation's most sacred sites. Also, the harsh way of requesting the entrance fee does little to inspire the worthy pilgrim or traveler. In short, the shrine is definitely worth including in a travel itinerary, but do not expect a quiet and respectful environment. B10.  edit

• Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing (วัดสุทัศน์และเสาชิงช้า), Bamrung Muang Rd, ☎ +66 2 222 0280, [5]. daily 9AM-9PM. The most prominent feature of this wat is the Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha), a huge red frame located in a plaza opposite the main entrance of the temple. The swing was once used in a dangerous ceremony, which has been cancelled since 1932 due to the injuries and deaths that resulted. The wat is adorned in the front with Chinese pagodas. Under the presiding Buddha statue in the main temple are the ashes of King Rama VIII. Wat Suthat B20, Giant Swing free.  edit

The following wats charge no (or a minor) entry fee. They would be major attractions in any other Thai city, but tend to get overshadowed by the "big boys" listed above and are worth visiting for a quieter experience.

• Marble Temple (วัดเบญจมบพิตร Wat Benchamabophit), Si Ayutthaya Rd, ☎ +66 2 281 2501 or +66 2 628 7947. daily 6AM-6PM. The newest of Bangkok's famous temples, this unique temple was constructed during the reign of King Rama V. It employs European ecclesiastic details, such as stained glass windows, and contains a cloister collection of bronze Buddha images. In the early morning, this is the best place to give food and necessities to monks, as they gather in front of the temple. B20.  edit

• Wat Intharawihan (วัดอินทรวิหาร), (North of the Khao San Road area and west of the Marble Temple). daily 8AM-8PM. Known for the so-called Standing Buddha (Luang Pho To), a 32-meter-tall golden Buddha image. The topknot of the Buddha image contains a relic of Lord Buddha brought from Sri Lanka. The temple is worth a visit for the sake of photographing the Buddha. However, it's worth mentioning that this temple is a regular site on the "gem scam" circuit, so ignore anyone approaching you and bringing up the topic of purchasing gems or taking a tuk tuk tour. Free.  edit

• Wat Ratchabophit (วัดราชบพิตร), Fuang Nakhon Rd (Near Wat Pho). This one is off the beaten path, and entrance is free. Built by King Rama V in 1869, it was in keeping with tradition that each monarch constructed a temple to mark his reign. The temple is a mixture of local and western styles, showing an awakening interest in new ideas and a desire to experiment with them. The exterior of the chapel is in Thai style, but the interior is decorated in European style. A major feature of this wat is the Royal Cemetery on the west side, which contains numerous monuments, including four white ones in which the ashes of the four Queens of King Chulalongkorn are interred. The one for Queen Savang Vadhana, grandmother of the current King, is the first on the left as you walk in eastward from the road. Free.  edit

• Wat Ratchanadda (วัดราชนัดดาราม), Mahachai Rd. daily 8AM-5PM. Somewhat off the beaten track but well worth a visit, close to the Saen Saep canal boat terminus and the Golden Mount, and easily spotted since its spires are of black iron, not the usual glittery gold. It's main structure, Loh Prasat, was built in the reign of King Rama III in 1846 and is in a highly unusual style: the wat itself is a 5-storied gleaming white structure with rows of Buddhas and nice views from up top, very elegant, calm and relaxing after the crowds at the big temples. A good view of Bangkok is afforded from the top tier. At night, the square around it is beautifully illuminated. Also check out the Buddhist amulet market nearby, as described in the Buy section. Free.  edit

• Wat Ratchapradit Sathitmahasimaram (วัดราชประดิษฐ์สถิตมหาสีมาราม). daily 8AM-6PM. This modest wat is opposite the canal from Wat Ratchabophit, to the north of Saran Rom Park. It was built in the reign of King Rama IV who intended it to be a temple in the Thammayut Sect as well as to be one of the 3 major temples as required by an old tradition to be situated within the capital. The place was originally a royal coffee plantation in the reign of King Rama III. With his personal donation, King Rama IV (Mongkut) bought the plantation and had a small temple constructed there, and his ashes are now interred under it. A place of interest in this temple is Phra Wihan Luang - the royal image hall - which houses mural paintings depicting “The Royal Ceremonies over 12 Months” and legend of the solar eclipse phenomenon. Free.  edit

• Wat Thepthidaram, Mahachai Rd (วัดเทพธิดาราม), ☎ +66 2 222 5067. daily 8AM-5PM. The temple was built in the reign of King Rama III with a mixture of Chinese architectural styles. Sunthon Phu, one of Thailand’s greatest poets, resided in this temple during his monkhood from 1840-1842. Free.  edit

[edit] Parks and monuments

• Bhodhi Court. You might stumble across a tree on a pedestal when walking from Phra Chan Market to Thammasat University. The tree has played an important role for the fight for democracy in Thailand. The democratic movements of 1973, 1976 and 1992 all started at the Bhodhi Court.  edit

• City Pillar Shrine (ศาลหลักเมือง Lak Meuang) According to an old Thai tradition, a city pillar — probably a descendent of the Hindu Shiva lingam — has to be built upon the establishment of a new city. King Rama I had the Bangkok city pillar erected near the Temple of the Emerald Buddha on Sunday, 21 April, 1782, with the city’s horoscope inside. The original pillar was made of cassia wood known as Chaiyaphruek, measuring 75 cm. in diameter and 27 cm. high. In the reign of King Rama IV, the old dilapidated pillar was replaced by a new one made of the same kind of wood, measuring 270 cm. high and standing on a base of 175 cm. wide, sheltered by a Prang-shaped shrine as it appears today. The shrine also houses images of protective deities including Thepharak, Chaopho Ho Klong, Phra Suea Mueang, Phra Song Mueang, Chaopho Chetakhup and Phra Kan Chai Si. It is open daily and has no entrance fee.

• Front Palace Remains, (Inside Thammasat University compound).  edit

• King Rama III Memorial (พระบรมราชานุสาวรีย์พระบาทสมเด็จพระนั่งเกล้าเจ้าอยู่หัว) The monument was built by the Fine Arts Department in 1990 near the Royal Reception Pavilion in front of Wat Ratchanatdaram on Ratchadamnoen Road. The bronze statue, half larger than life size, is seated on a throne. The surrounding area is decorated with beautiful plants, with the Royal Reception Pavilion and three minor pavilions known as Sala Rai nearby. Open: Daily, Admission: Free.

• Mae Toranee Statue.

• Mahakan Fort.

• Monument to the Expeditionary Force (อนุสาวรีย์ทหารอาสา) Near a northern corner of Sanam Luang stands a monument to the Thai expeditionary force that fought in the European battlefield during World War I. After war broke out in 1914, Thailand joined the Allied Army to declare war on Germany and sent militia to Europe on 20 June, 1918. Upon their return to Thailand on 21 September, 1919, the ashes of dead veterans were taken to be enshrined here on 24 September, 1919. Open: Daily, Admission: Free.

• Rommaninat Park (สวนรมณีนาถ) This is a public park built on the old prison grounds on Mahachai Road near Wat Suthat. The Corrections Museum inside the park displays instruments of punishment and evolution of punishment in Thailand. Open: Park - Daily from 5 a.m. to 8 p.m. Museum – Thu to Sat from 8.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Admission: Free.

• Saranrom Park, Sanam Chai Road (across from the Grand Palace). A lush garden created around a lake and home to glasshouses, ancient trees and wooden pagodas. A great place to relax and escape the heat. The park was originally a royal garden in the Saranrom Palace. At the south end of the park is a marble monument dedicated to HM Queen Sunantha Kumareerat and HRH Prince Kannaporn Phetcharat, who died in a boating accident in the reign of King Rama V. 5AM-8PM.

• Sanam Luang (สนามหลวง). A vast open ground situated near the northern wall of the Grand Palace and the eastern wall of the former Viceroy Palace or Wang Na. At the time when Bangkok was first established, the ground was a rice field and was sometimes used as a location for a royal crematorium, Phra Men in Thai. The ground was, thus, otherwise called as ‘Thung Phra Men’ which means the crematorium ground. In considering that the name was inauspicious, King Rama IV had the ground renamed as ‘Thong Sanam Luang’, or the Royal Ground, and the rice farming there ceased. Later, King Rama V had the Wang Na’s eastern wall demolished and the area of Sanam Luang enlarged to cover a total of 78 rai as it does ‘til today. The place has been used as the crematorium ground for kings, members of the royal family and nobility, in addition, to being a royal sporting ground. The king also had 365 tamarind trees planted around it. Sanam Luang is also Bangkok’s equivalent of ‘Speaker’s Corner’ where folk often get together and debate the state of current politics. The grounds have, over recent history, been used as a location for political rallies and demostrations. On the King’s birthday (Dec 5) literally a million people come to celebrate the birthday of HM the King. It is open daily and has no entrance fee. At night, a nice market is held here.

• Pig Memorial.  edit

[edit] Museums

• Bank of Thailand Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์ธนาคารแห่งประเทศไทย) Located on a total area of 30 rai on the Chao Phraya River inside Bang Khun Phrom Palace within the same compound as the Bank of Thailand, Sam Sen Road, Phra Nakhon District. The museum building is one example of the finest architecture of the same art style built by King Rama V to be a royal residence of HRH Prince Boriphat Sukhumphan, his 33rd son born with Queen Sukhuman Marasi. After 1932, the palace was used as a governmental office for a certain period until 1945 when it became the Bank of Thailand. It was turned into the Bank of Thailand Museum in 1982, accommodating 14 rooms on 2 floors. Floor 1 houses rooms of ancient coins, the Phot Duang or Thai bullet coins, modern Thai coins and banknotes, golds and foreign currency. Floor 2 houses rooms of the 60th anniversary of the Bank of Thailand, banknote printing, and several others. Open: Mon-Fri from 9.30 a.m. to 12 a.m., 1.30 p.m.to 4.30 p.m. Admission: Free. Tel: 0 2283 5286, 0 2283 6723(Please contact at least 1 week in advance. (Attention: Director of the Bank of Thailand Museum).

• King Prajadhipok Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์พระบาทสมเด็จพระปกเกล้าเจ้าอยู่หัว) [6] The museum is located at the preserved building of the Public Works Department at the foot of Phan Fa Lilat Bridge at the corner of Lan Luang Road in Phra Nakhon District. The building is of King Rama VI’s – King Rama VII’s neo-classic architecture built in 1906. It was renovated by King Prajadhipok’s Institute to serve as a museum exhibiting a rare collection of King Rama VII’s personal belongings as well as photographs, documents and biography of Thailand’s first constitutional monarch. It has become the first perfect monarchic museum, using modern technology in giving explanations and guidance. Significant events and stories relating to King Rama VII are also exhibited including the succession to the throne, the king’s biography before his accession to the throne, royal activities, political reform, promulgation of the constitution, royal utensils and memorabilia, as well as his life after abdication and death in the United Kingdom. The demolished Sala Chaloem Krung Theatre which used to stand in the nearby area is imitated with old films being projected. Open: Tue-Sun from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. including public holidays. Admission: 40 baht. Tel: 0 2280 3413-4, 0 2280 3445-6.

• Museum of Siam (มิวเซียมสยาม) [7] Located near Wat Pho. This is renovated from the old building of Ministry of Commerce Thailand. There're permanent exhibition about history of Thai nation, culture and history. The content was exhibited in multimedia media with visitors' interaction. It's a so-called 'discovery museum', which visitors can play and interact with the objects shown. Open: Tue-Sum from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Admission: 150 THB, Tel: 02 225 2777.

• National Museum (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ พระนคร), Naphra That (between Thammasart University and the National Theatre, opp. Sanam Luang) [8]. Another former royal palace dating to the same period as the Grand Palace, the grounds are attractive in parts, but a bit sprawling and difficult to navigate without a guide. The permanent exhibits are a mixed bag - there are some terrific new displays and dioramas on Thai history, but many other buildings are dusty collections of artifacts without much by way of explanation. Entry 200B (recently bumped up from 40B), open W-Su 9AM-4PM, closed national holidays. Allow a whole day to see this one.

• National Museum Silpa Bhirasri Memorial. M-F 9AM-4PM, Sa-Su closed. Museum dedicated to the "father of modern art" of Thailand, the Italian professor Corrado Feroci.  edit

• The Press Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์หนังสือพิมพ์ไทย) [9] Located in the same building as the Press Association of Thailand on Ratchasima Road, Dusit district (opposite Suan Dusit Rajabhat University), this is the first museum to have been established to enhance press occupation and be a source of study and information as well as valuable historical data about the Thai press from past to present. The exhibition is displayed through modern information technology. The first portion presents the press in the past by imitating the working atmosphere of reporters represented by wax models. Next are the political, economic as well as social roles of the press and biographies of outstanding personalities such as Dr. Bradley, Prince Narathipphongpraphan, M.R. Kukrit Pramoj, Kularb Saipradit, Malai Choopinij and Isra Amantakul. There are also images of King Rama IV– founder of Thailand’s publishing business established to publish declarations and royal gazettes, the first newspaper for Thai people–and King Rama VI –a press king who granted freedom for newspaper publication. The museum features an exhibition on newspapers and magazines and provides a library service, as well. Open: Mon - Fri from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Admission: Free, Tel: 0 2669 7124 – 6, Fax: 0 2241 5929.

• Sukhothai Palace.

[edit] Galleries

• National Gallery (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ หอศิลป). Th Chao Fa (north of Sanam Luang) [10]. Housed in the former Royal Thai Mint and fairly small and compact, the permanent displays here are quite unimpressive, but the ever-changing modern art exhibitions can be considerably more interesting. Oil paintings by the King are also exhibited here. Admission 200B (recently bumped up from 30B) even when there's no special exhibition, open W-Su 9AM-4PM, closed national holidays.

• The Queen's Gallery. This privately funded gallery hosts exhibitions on Thai contemporary art. There is also a reading room.

• Silpakorn University Art Gallery. The exhibitions for show here are created by students, teachers and university artists. Entry is free.

• Suan Dusit Art Gallery.

[edit] Dusit Palace

The Dusit Palace [11], sometimes called New Royal City, Dusit Park, Dusit Garden, or simply "Dusit", is a complex of palaces and royal residences in the Dusit district north of Rattanakosin. This leafy, European-style area is the political center of Thailand, with the Parliament inside the palace grounds and the Chitrlada Palace and Government House nearby. The palace was established by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He was impressed by the royal parks and residences he had seen there, which were leafy, relaxed, spacious and cool, as opposed to the Grand Palace, which was cramped with buildings for his numerous wives, children and servants. These buildings blocked the air flow inside the Grand Palace, which made it heat up remarkably. As a substitute, King Chulalongkorn built the Dusit Palace.

The main structure is the Vimanmek Mansion, the world's largest golden teakwood residence and the former home of King Chulalongkorn. Get a ticket for B100 at the northern side of the palace grounds, or enter for free if you have a Grand Palace entry ticket (remains valid for a week). You can visit all the museums on the palace grounds with one ticket, except the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall, which sets back a separate B50. Keep in mind that the same dress codes apply here as in the Grand Palace, so leave sleeveless shirts and shorts at home. You must store your belongings in a locker at each museum. It's free everywhere, except at the Vimanmek Mansion, so go to another museum first and leave your belongings there. The palace grounds are open from 9.30AM till 4PM, but the last (compulsory) tour of the Vimanmek Mansion starts around 3.15PM. Some of the smaller museums close at 3.30PM. Allow a whole day if you want to see all the buildings and museums. A trip to the palace can be combined with a visit to Dusit Zoo (Khao Din) and Wat Benjamabophit, which are nearby.

• Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall Support Museum. Built in the year 1904, this hall is a mix of Victorian and Islamic influences. Home to the largest part of H.M. Queen Sirikit's SUPPORT Museum, it shows a collection of handicraft masterpieces created by people from the countryside. Queen Sirikit set up the foundation to preserve traditional Thai arts and crafts.  edit

Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

• Anantasamakhom Throne Hall (พระที่นั่งอนันตสมาคม), ☎ +66 0 2628 6300 ext. 5119-5121. daily 9.30AM-4PM, hols closed. This Renaissance building was constructed of marble from Italy under the instruction of King Chulalongkorn, with an intention to be used as a royal reception and assembly hall. The construction was completed in the next reign. The dome of the throne hall houses picturesque frescoes of royal activities undertaken during the reigns of King Rama I till King Rama VI. The building serves as a venue for royal and state ceremonies and was once used as the National Assembly before it was moved to the building behind it. B50.  edit

• Ancient Cloth and Silk Museum. Plenty of fabrics and textiles on display here, such as Shanghai brocade silk, gold brocade cloth, and satin.  edit

• King Rama V Equestrian Statue. The entrance to Dusit Palace is a gigantic motorway with the statue of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) placed in the center. Each year on December 5th, the Trooping of the Colors ceremony is held here.  edit

• Lakeside Pavilion. This pavilion is placed on a small lake, and is a nice place to see a Thai dance performance.  edit

• Princess Arun-Wadi Residential Hall (Photographic Museum). Besides being the current king of Thailand, H.M. King Bhumibol is also a photographer. Some of his works are on display here.  edit

• Princess Puang Soi Sa-ang Residential Hall. Displaying old clocks and timepieces.  edit

• Rank and Portrait Museum.  edit

• Royal Carriage Museum. Shows off 23 royal carriages from the late 19th century. It is the only museum where taking pictures is allowed.  edit

• Royal Elephant National Museum. Formerly the royal stables of the king's white elephants, now it is a museum about these extremely rare creatures. They are considered holy animals in Thailand, as a white elephant with six tusks appeared in a dream to Buddha's mother when she conceived her child.  edit

Vimanmek Mansion Museum

• Suan Bua Residential Hall. The former residence of Princess Saisavali Bhiromya, the royal consort of King Chulalongkorn. On display is a large collection of Buddha statues and photographs from the reign of King Chulalongkorn. Gifts H.M. King Bhumibol received on state visits to other countries can also be seen.  edit

• Suan Bua Plew Presentation Hall. This hall features a slideshow about the history of the palace grounds and an overview of the different museums you can visit.  edit

• Suan Hong Residential Hall. This was previously the Queen Savang Vadhana's home, the grandmother of King Chulalongkorn. Photos of royal ceremonies performed by King Bhumibol and the crown prince can be seen.  edit

• Suan Si Rue Du Residential Hall. This hall is a former residence of Queen Saovabha. On display are a royal collection of the gifts to H.M. King Bhumibol on the 50th anniversary of his ascension to throne.  edit

• Tamnak Hor Residential Hall. The wedding of Prince Paribatra Sukhumbandhu, son of King Chulalongkorn, was performed here. Now the hall displays 13th century Sukhothai pottery recovered from shipwrecks in the Gulf of Thailand.  edit

• Vimanmek Mansion Museum (พระที่นั่งวิมานเมฆ), ☎ +66 2 628 6300. Touted as the world's largest golden teak building, this palace was the home of King Chulalongkorn in the early 20th century. A guided tour is compulsory and tells you about the life of King Chulalongkorn, as well as about the collection of fin de siecle royal memorabilia placed in the building.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Explore the most important sights of the area on foot.

• The National Theatre (โรงละครแห่งชาติ), 2 Rachini Road (Next to the National Museum,), ☎ 0 2224 1342 or 0 2222 1092. The official centre of Thai classical performance  edit

• Gunshooting is an activity you can do south of the Ministry of Defense. Make an appointment first by telephone.

• Take one of the open-bus tours around Rattanakosin. Entry is free, but usually the guides are given in Thai.

• Take the Rattanakosin Bicycle Route. Be careful of traffic though, and only follow the designated route (as it's the only route with bicycle paths).

• Watch Thai boxing at Ratchadamnoen Stadium. 1000 baht.

[edit] Festivals

• December 5th, Birthday of the King.

• Royal Barges ceremony.

[edit] Learn

[edit] Universities

• Silpakorn University, 31 Na Phralan Road (across the street from the Grand Palace), [12]. As Thailand's foremost institution in the fine arts, there are many buildings and small museums dedicated to showcasing artworks by students.

• Thammasat University, 2 Phrachan Road (next to the National Museum), [13]. The main campus of one of Thailand's most prestigious universities, alma matter of many of the nation's politicians and businessmen. It is noticeably more modern than neighboring Silpakorn University and is worth a walk around campus, particularly on a school day.

[edit] Meditation

• Wat Mahathat (วัดมหาธาตุ) This old temple was built in the reign of King Rama I. Located on Na Phrathat Road near Thammasat University, the temple houses Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of the two highest seats of Buddhist learning in Thailand and also offers meditation classes for foreigners. Open: Daily from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., Admission: Free, Tel: 0 2222 6011; Meditation Centre Tel: 0 2623 6326.

[edit] Massage

• Wat Pho Massage School. To register for Wat Pho's famous Thai massage course, you'll need 2 x 2" passport photos and a photocopy of your passport. These photos are bigger than UK passport photos (which are not accepted). The Kodak shop on the corner of the Thai Massage Registration Office, Soi Penphat 1, Maharaj Rd, can supply the photos and has a photocopier, but the photos can take a few hours, so go the day before. Tell the Kodak man that the photos are for the Thai massage certificate - he has a jacket you can wear to look smart. The Thai massage school will reject photos if you are wearing a skimpy top or do not look tidy. The basic course (8,700 baht) is pretty comprehensive and lasts 5 days. They'll put you in a separate English speaking classroom where the instructors have a fair grasp of English. They know their stuff and justify their reputation of being the home of Thai massage. Prepare for an Asian style of teaching - they teach you what to do without often explaining the reasons why, however if you question them, they will tell you. It is best to study 5 days consecutively, but there is scope for having a break in the middle - you do not need to book months in advance. You can start the day you register. Lunch is provided for 30BHT and is of good quality, but can be low on quantity if there are lots of students. All you need to bring for the course is comfortable clothing - be prepared to remove body jewellery. The Thai massages are conducted with you wearing all your clothes. At 8AM in NE corner of Wat Pho, the massage school teach Thai Yoga. This is free to attend, you do not need to pay an entrance fee to get into the Wat Pho courtyard if you are a massage student.

[edit][add listing] Buy

[edit] Markets

With all the glitzy shopping malls in Sukhumvit, shopping in Rattanakosin is more what you would expect from traditional Thailand. Just like Khao San Road, street markets are virtually everywhere, but they are much more authentic in Rattanakosin. Plenty of tourists roam around the area, but you will notice that most street markets are actually set up for the locals, so a phrasebook might come in handy.

As waterways are the most important way of transport in Rattanakosin, most boat piers have interesting markets attached to them. It's proximity to the Grand Palace makes Tha Chang Market an obvious first choice. It is a fruit market with pineapples, coconuts and bananas for sale, as well as plenty of exotic Thai fruits you probably have never heard of before. You can also sit on one of the plastic seats for B50 a meal, and there is an unnamed Chinese restaurant nearby 7 Eleven (use a phrasebook though).

The Tha Phra Chan Market is a small clothes market. Most t-shirts have a kind of postmodern pop art style, which are popular with local art students. There are also traditional women clothes, sneakers, accessories and the like. For food, there budget restaurants inside the pier building, where you can sit right beside the Chao Phraya river for 50 baht a meal. These are mostly used by locals, so bring a phrasebook. Another indoor area can be reached from Mahathat Road, where you can eat or get some iced chocolate.

The Tha Thien Market might seem unappealing at first, but they have plenty of dried fish and other kinds of seafood for sale. Just looking at the piles of fish lined up makes for a fun walk. There are also some stores selling traditional Thai souvenirs like Buddha statues.

An interesting non-food market is the Tha Thewes Plant Market. The market is along a canal and has plenty of tropical plants for sale, as well as seeds to grow them yourself. You can buy one if you wish, but first check with authorities if you are allowed to import them to your country! Even without actually buying anything, it's still nice to just see this busy market in action.

Expect all these markets to close down at 8PM the latest. That's different with the Sanam Luang Night Market, which is on all the roads surrounding the Sanam Luang Royal Grounds. It starts around 6PM, but only gets interesting after 8PM. It's a bit like a flee market as locals place a blanket on the ground and put used and other old products for sale. Expect toys, statues, pets, mobile phone chargers, remotes, and what have you not. All the sellers place lamps so it's easy to browse around.

[edit] Amulet markets

Rattanakosin is probably the best place in Bangkok for buying religious paraphernalia. These markets are among the most authentic ones, as they are meant for religious locals instead of masses of tourists. The biggest amulet market of Bangkok is the Wat Rajnadda Buddha Center with more than 100 stalls selling everything a good Buddhist would need. It is located isoutheast of Wat Rajnadda, and can best be accessed from Thanon Mahachai. You can find hundreds of tiny Buddha images here, as well as Hindi figures, in all colors, shapes and sizes.

If you're on a budget, the Thanon Mahathat Amulet Market near the Grand Palace might be a better option. Along the side of the road are plenty of vendors selling amulets, and you can get one for as cheap as 5 baht! Better looking amulets cost around B20-100, or as much as you want to spend on it.

Thanon Bamrung, the road to and from Wat Suthat, has plenty of stores selling religious items. Plenty of 2-meter tall Buddha images are for sale here, but don't even think about bringing them with you on the plane! You can also get item-filled buckets to donate to monks. These buckets contain daily necessities monks might need, such as soap, toothpaste, candles, etc.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Compared to the profusion elsewhere in the city, places to eat are limited in Rattanakosin. For fine dining, Sukhumvit is a better choice, while Yaowarat and Khao San Road offer plenty of budget options. In Rattanakosin, it's probably best to grab a quick bite at one of it's carts and street markets. The only mid-range restaurants can be found in the area around Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing.

[edit] Budget

• Elle Tha Pra Chan, 172 Thanon Wat Mahathat (Near Chang Pier, on the road to Pra Chan Pier), ☎ +66 2 623 5750. 9AM-5PM. Budget restaurant and bakery at the Wat Mahathat Amulet Market near the Grand Palace. The sign is only in Thai, but it's not hard to find. Menus are in English, just point to the dish of your choice. It has the typical Thai dishes as well as some Italian ones. B70.  edit

• Khao Mu Daeng Trok Nawa, 25 Trok Nawa, ☎ +66 2 622 0009. M-Sa 8AM-4PM, Su closed. Obviously try the Khao Mu Daeng (rice with roasted pork), the signature dish of this place. B30.  edit

• Mon Nomsot, 160/2-3 Dinso Rd, ☎ +66 2 224 1147. 2PM-midnight. Small bakery with bread, milk and other small snacks. B25.  edit

• Nai Uan Yen Ta Fo, 41 Trok Nawa, ☎ +66 2 622 0701. M-Sa 9AM-4.30PM, 6PM-10PM, Su closed. Chinese budget restaurant. Try the yen ta fo, noodles with tofu soup and fish balls. B40.  edit

• Po Pia Song Muai, 150 Tanao Rd (Around the corner of Phrang Phuthon), ☎ +66 2 222 2807. daily 9.30AM-8PM. Try the po pia, fresh Thai-style spring rolls. B50.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Ch. Pralumlong, Na Phra Lan Rd. Typical Thai dishes here, but you get quite little for the amount paid. Also, the staff seems more busy with their families than with servicing customers. B150.  edit

• Feeling Space, Na Phra Lan Rd. B90.  edit

• Kai Yang Bo Ran, 474-476 Tanao Rd, ☎ +66 2 622 2349. daily 9AM-8PM. Thai and Isan cuisine. B160-200.  edit

• Mit Ko Yuan, 186 Dinsaw Rd, ☎ +66 2 224 1194. M-F 11AM-2PM, Sa-Su 4PM-10PM. Thai/Chinese restaurant. B50-170.  edit

• Phai Thong, 39 Fueang Nakhon Rd (Behind Ministry of Interior), ☎ +66 2 223 9009. daily 11AM-8PM. Thai/Isaan cuisine. B100-500.  edit

• Pot Saphakan, 443 Tanao Rd, ☎ +66 2 222 2686. M-F 10AM-2PM, 5.30PM-9PM. Generic Thai restaurant. B100-200.  edit

• Ta Chang, 5 Phra Athit Rd (Near the Bangkok Tourist Information Center), ☎ +66 2 231 527 (sam@tachang.com), [14]. daily 11AM-midnight. Great Western/Thai restaurant with a relaxed view on the Chao Phraya river and it's small garden. Come in for a bite, or for a good coffee - alcohol is also served. Temporarily closed! B150-400.  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Fisherman's Seafood, 1/12 Soi Mahathat, ☎ +66 2 222 8082, [15]. Luxury seafood restaurant, with daily fresh fish and a nice view over the Chao Phraya river.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

• Krisa, Na Phra Lan Rd. daily 8AM-6PM. This cafe with an old Western-style interior is in an ideal location for freshing up after a hike through the Grand Palace. Obviously you can get coffee and tea, but an iced chocolate might be a better choice. For around B50, they also serve simple Thai dishes. B50.  edit

• Na Phra Lan Cafe, Na Phra Lan Rd. M-Sa 10.30AM-10.30PM, Su 10.30AM-6PM. Popular cafe among students from the nearby Silpakorn Art University. At daytime it's a nice place for a coffee, tea or hot chocolate. After dusk, many students come here to drink beer in large amounts. B50.  edit

• Withstand Dawn (รับอรุณ), Mahathat Rd (Opposite Wat Pho). Professional looking European-style coffeehouse, but an English sign is missing. Nice place to fresh up after having visited Wat Pho.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Rattanakosin is flowing over with sights, but accomodotion — that's a challenge. Budget guesthouses are clustered on the nearby Khao San Road, while Silom and Sukhumvit offer plenty of upscale hotels. Most travelers go there for the wide availability of accommodation. If you insist on staying over in Rattanakosin, choice is limited, but there are some options available.

• Boonsiri Place, [16]. Located about 5 minutes walk south of Khaosan Road, this hotel is hidden in the back alleys of Rattanakosin. The rooms are very clean, as are the bathrooms. Breakfast selection is very poor, but adequate. Conveniently has a 7 Eleven on the ground floor. B1000.  edit

• Niras Bankoc Boutique Hostel, 204 - 206 Mahachai Rd, ☎ +66 8 9140 7737, [17]. dorm B500, basic room B1200, ensuite B1900.  edit

• Grande Ville Hotel (Bangkok China town Hotel), 903 Mahachai Rd, ☎ +66 2 225 0050, [18]. Grande Ville Hotel Bangkok is ideally located in the heart of the Bangkok city; the vibrant bustling commercial district of China Town Bangkok. Just 15 minutes from express way and subway (MRT)- making all parts of the city easily accessible  edit

[edit] Stay safe

[edit] Get out

Rattanakosin has Bangkok's principal tourist sights, but the surrounding districts offer plenty of stores, restaurants, nightlife and activities.

• Khao San Road is about 10 minutes north by Chao Phraya Express Boat to Phra Athit Pier, or 35 minutes on foot from the Grand Palace. It is a backpackers' mecca overloaded with budget guesthouses, 50 baht pad thai stalls and hippy dresses for sale.

• Silom is about 40 minutes by Chao Phraya Express Boat to Saphan (Taksin). From there, take the Skytrain northeast to Sala Daeng. It's a sober financial center by day, but Bangkok's primary party district by night when quarters like the infamous Patpong come alive.

• Sukhumvit is one hour east by bus 25 from the Grand Palace, or take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Saphan (Taksin) and continue by Skytrain to Siam. It's chock-full of air-conditioned malls and department stores, and is the place for fine dining.

• Thonburi is about 10 minutes west by ferry or Chao Phraya Express Boat. It's canals can either be explored individually or in a group canal tour from Chang Pier. Primary attractions are the iconic Wat Arun, the Royal Barge Museum and the Taling Chan Floating Market (weekends only).

• Yaowarat and Pahurat is 10 minutes south by Chao Phraya Express Boat to Ratchawongse, or on foot from Wat Pho. The area offers gigantic neon-signs, cramped markets, dim sum, delicious Indian curries and the Pak Khlong Talat flower market.