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The Phahonyothin (พหลโยธิน) area of Bangkok is centered around Phahonyothin road, starting from the Victory Monument, a major bus/Skytrain interchange. Also spelled Phaholyothin, Paholyothin etc, it runs parallel to and eventually merges with Vibhavadi Rangsit Road, stretching northward all the way past the old Don Muang Airport (now replaced by Suvarnabhumi) towards Rangsit and Highway 1 to Ayutthaya and (if you keep driving long enough) Chiang Mai.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By train

The Skytrain's Sukhumvit line runs north from Victory Monument to Chatuchak/Mo Chit, where it intersects with the Metro Blue Line. SRT's Bang Sue Train Station is also accessible by the Metro, and may be an option if heading north or northeast.

[edit] By bus

Many visitors also arrive (or leave) via the massive Moh Chit Northern Bus Terminal (sathanii Mo Chit), also known as Mo Chit Mai ("new Mo Chit") or simply Mo Chit as the old version has ceased to exist. This is the largest terminal in Bangkok and buses to all points throughout central, northern and northeastern Thailand, including Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai, all of Isaan and Aranyaprathet (for Cambodia) leave from here.

Buying tickets here is reasonably easy; find a window with your destination written on it (in friendly Roman letters), pay the fare in big numbers on the same window, and you'll get a ticket on the next available departure. Note that blue writing means 1st class, red means 2nd class (avoid on longer trips), and tickets for northeastern destinations are sold from the 3rd floor. Ask the information desk on the 1st floor if you need help, or any of the BKS staff, easily identifiable thanks to their natty white shirts with gold buttons. Now just find the departure stall and you're on your way. If you have time to kill, there are two fairly decent air-con food courts at both ends of the main terminal building, plus KFC, Dunkin' Donuts and lots of 7-Eleven outlets.

The bus terminal is fair hike from the Skytrain or subway stations across Chatuchak Park. Motorbike taxis do the trip for a fixed 30 baht fare (bargaining is pointless), while tuk-tuks charge what they feel like - just remember that a real taxi with air-con and all will cost you 35 baht (albeit not including sitting around in traffic jams). If you have a considerable amount of luggage the easiest, if not necessarily fastest, option is to take a taxi directly to/from the bus terminal.

[edit][add listing] See

There are few sights as such in the area, and most tourists make a beeline for the Weekend Market (see Buy).

• Baiyoke Tower 2.

[edit] Museums

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• Bangkok Butterfly Garden and Insectarium (อุทยานผีเสื้อและแมลงกรุงเทพฯ) Situated in the southeastern area of Vachirabenjatas Park (Railway Park), Kamphaeng Phet 3 Road, the garden covers an area of approximately 6 rai. It comprises of 4 main sections; namely, 1) a touch screen computer area introducing the garden, 2) a mini-theatre for the VDO presentation on insects and the ecological system, 3) an exhibition area and feed breeding room of the embryo of butterflies and insects, 4) a cage covering an area of 1,168 square metres with a large dome of 15 metres high, built from an open framework for good ventilation. It displays 20 kinds of more than 500 butterflies. The garden, which connects to the Chatuchak and Queen Sirikit Parks, is an appropriate natural classroom for learning, conducting research, as well as, collecting and exchanging knowledge on butterfly species and insects, their life cycles and ways of living. The garden is open daily except for Monday during 8.30 a.m.-4.30 p.m. Open: Tuesday - Sunday and public holidays from 8.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Admission: Free. Tel: 0 2272 4359-60, 0 2272 4680. This is a large enclosure with rockeries, shady ferns, wild flowers and a cooling waterfall - the insects' natural habitat and around 500 butterflies at any given time.

• Bangkok Dolls & Museum (บ้านบางกอกดอลส์และตุ๊กตานานาชาติ) Located at 85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) off Ratchaprarop Road. It was established by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol in 1956 after having completed a course on doll making from the Osawa Doll School in Tokyo, Japan. Her intention was to make as well as publicise Thai dolls. Bangkok Doll’s products are well recognised internationally and renowned among doll collectors. They won the first prize and the Honorary Gold Peacock Feather Award from the 3rd International Folklore Dolls Biennial 1978 in Poland. The place serves as both a museum and workshop where various kinds of dolls are displayed and made totally by hand, using mainly locally available materials. There are several categories of dolls such as Khon dolls, hill tribes, Thai rural lifestyles as well as Khon mask miniatures. There is also a corner in the workshop where a private collection of some 400 dolls from around the world are displayed. The entrance is free. Open: Mon-Sat from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tel: 0 2245 3008

• Children’s Discovery Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็ก) [1] The museum is located inside Queen Sirikit Park and was established under the royal initiative of Her Majesty the Queen, in her realizing the significance of creating a pleasurable learning process for Thai children. Based on the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration’s children and family activities, the Children’s Discovery Museum took shape in the form of 3 exhibition buildings and an open-air activity ground covering a total area of 5 rai. The construction was completed in 2001 and undertaken under the project to celebrate the 60th birthday anniversary of Her Majesty the Queen. The museum offers exhibitions as well as funny activities for children to enjoy and learn about human life, sciences, culture and society, nature and the environment, including an exhibition in honour of Her Majesty the Queen. Open: Daily (Tues-Fri from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sat-Sun from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.) Admission: Adult 70 baht, Child 50 baht. Tel: 0 2615 7333 ext. 102, 134, 148

• Philatelic Museum and Library (พิพิธภัณฑ์และห้องสมุดตราไปรษณียากร) Located on the 2nd floor of the Metropolitan Postal Bureau (North) (behind Sam Sen Nai Post Office), Phahonyothin Road, Sam Sen Sub-district, it displays the history of the Thai postal service and development of Thai stamps from the past until present time. Moreover, “Solot”, the first Thai stamps used in the reign of King Rama V and the foreign ones of the member countries of the Universal Postal Union are on display. Also, there is a library collecting books and knowledge on post both in Thai and foreign languages. In the same area, stamps and accessories for stamp collection are on sale at the ground floor of the building. Next to the museum, there is also a room imitating the operational site and equipment of the post office in the past, providing services of postal money orders, selling stamps, etc. In front of the building, Thai postal boxes in various periods, as well as, those from foreign countries are exhibited. Open: Wed–Sun from 8.30 a.m to 4.30 p.m., Admission: Free, Tel: 0 2271 2439

• Phya Thai Palace.

• Suan Pakkad Palace (วังสวนผักกาด) [2] Located on Si Ayutthaya Road, this complex of five Thai-style houses was once the residence of one of Thailand’s leading art collectors, Prince Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. It houses an extensive collection of Asian art and antiques, including items from the prehistoric Ban Chiang civilisation, and also an impressive collection of sea-shells. Khon (classical Thai masked dance) Museum and Traditional Thai Music Museum are also established here. Open: Daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Admission: 100 baht, Tel: 0 2246 1775-6 ext 229, 0 2245 4934.

• The State Railway Hall of Fame (หอเกียรติภูมิรถไฟ) This is a train museum where steam engines, train models, and miniature trains are exhibited along with the story of world railway systems. It is on the western side of Chatuchak Park adjacent to Kamphaeng Phet Road. Open: Sat-Sun from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., Admission: Free, Tel: 08 1615 5776

• Thai Labour Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์แรงงานไทย) This museum is located at the former office of the State Railway of Thailand Labour Union on Nikhom Rotfai Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi. It exhibits a historical background of Thai labour in 7 rooms: Room 1, slave labour and corvée system – the foundation of ancient Thai society – presenting the history of Thai labour since ancient times; Room 2, Chinese coolies - early hire workers - featuring their way of life; Room 3, labour and the country’s reforms in the reign of King Rama V – a major transitional period in Thai history; Room 4, labourers and the 1932 Revolution – labourers before and after the revolution; Room 5, from World War to the Cold War – Thai labour under critical situations during World War II and the Cold War; Room 6, from the 14 October uprising to the economic crisis – life of Thai workers during the pro-democracy period, women and child labour, truck drivers and boxers; Room 7, labour artist Chit Phumisak – dedicated to Chit Phumisak, a significant thinker and intellectual. The exhibition in each room is displayed through various media such as television, slides and computer, which make it more interesting and easier to understand. The museum also provides a library service with books and research reports about labourers and computer training for workers. Open: Wed-Sun and Public holidays from 10 a.m. to 4.30 p.m., Admission: Free, Tel: 0 2251 3173 (Advance contact is required for a group visit.)

[edit] Parks and monuments

• Chatuchak Park (สวนจตุจักร) This is located at the junction of Phahonyothin and Vibhavadi Rangsit roads. There are nine pieces of ASEAN sculptures that enhance the character of the park. Open: Daily from 5 a.m. to 8 p.m. Admission: Free.

• National Memorial (อนุสรณ์สถานแห่งชาติ). It is on Vibhavadi Rangsit Road slightly beyond Don Muang Railway Station. Covering an area of 38 rai, the National Memorial is under the responsibility of the Armed Force Education Department, Supreme Command Headquarters. There are wall paintings depicting historic events in Thai history from the Sukhothai period to Rattanakosin period, replicas of royal decorations, bas-reliefs of the establishment of the city and models recounting historic battles in Thai history. Open: Mon- Fri from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission: Free Tel: 0 2532 1021. A speaker is available for a group visit but advance contact in writing is required.

• Queen Sirikit Park (สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์). This is situated east of Chatuchak Park on Phahonyothin Road. It was built to commemorate the 60th birthday anniversary of HM Queen Sirikit. A big pool in the park contains three fountains and a fine collection of both Thai and foreign lotuses. Open: Daily from 5 a.m. to 8 p.m. Admission: Free.

• Railway Park (Suan Rot Fai). Large park located just north of the Queen Sirikit Park on the site of former golf course of the Railway club. Bicycle rental, parking (payed) and eating possibilities outside of the northern entrance to the park. Has large kids playgrounds in the middle as well as kids pool (Admission payed) and sports facilities. Open: Daily, some parts closed on Monday. Admission: Free.

• Victory Monument (อนุสาวรีย์ชัยสมรภูมิ anutsawarii chaisamorraphuum). Constructed in 1941 by military dictator Plaek Pibulsongkhram to commemorate the 59 Thais who lost their lives in the short and inconclusive French Indochina War. However, Pibulsongkhram was kicked out in 1944 and the patch of land gained by the Thais was handed back to Laos and Cambodia in 1945, making the "victory" a little hollow, and these days this spiky Bangkok landmark is now better known as Bangkok's largest local bus hub. If traveling north by Skytrain, you'll be treated to a 180-degree curving panorama of the monument, and this is the best view you can get as actually reaching the base of the monument would require passing through a triple-laned traffic circle maelstrom of buses. The public restrooms at the major bus stop directly across from the monument costs 2 Baht per person/entry.

[edit] Learn

• Kasetsart University.

[edit][add listing] Buy

• Chatuchak Weekend Market (จตุจักร, also Jatujak or even JJ). BTS Mo Chit, Metro Kampaeng Phet. Northern Bangkok's biggest draw, this incredibly vast, 35-acre outdoor market has over 8,000 vendors selling anything and everything under the sun. To put that number in perspective, if you browsed each stall each one minute, non-stop for 8 hours on every Saturday and Sunday, it would take you around two months to visit them all! A good rule of thumb is to buy immediately if you spot something interesting, because you will never find the same stall again. The market opens at 7 AM, so get there early to beat the crowds and the heat. Keep an eye on your belongings here as pickpockets work in the crowds, and avoid Chatuchak on rainy days as the roofs and drains here aren't quite up to a tropical downpour. Silom's Suan Lum Night Bazaar is worth considering as an alternative to Chatuchak: it's more centrally located, it's open at night when it's cooler and there are a number of restaurants where cold beer and decent food is available. The range of goods on offer is, however, not quite as immense at at Chatuchak.

• Or Tor Kor Market. Right next to Chatuchak, far fewer tourists make it to the best place in Bangkok to buy high-quality plants and produce straight off the farm at Thai prices.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Northern Bangkok's hippest place to eat is the area around Phahonyothin Soi 7, better known as Soi Ari (or Aree), and Soi 5, Soi Ari Samphan (or Soi Ari Ratchakhru). Just off BTS Ari station, these busy streets are divided into their own sois, with Ari Soi 1 featuring a bustling market packed with food stalls and the trendier/more expensive joints around Sois 2 and 3.

Victory Monument has the usual collection of Western & Thai fast-food favorites and a busy street market as well, especially in the evenings.

[edit] Budget

• Jud Leeo (จุดเลี้ยว), Phahonyothin Soi 19 (Around the Corner from the British Council and Index). Exceptional Thai curries and other dishes with a friendly, English speaking staff. Shady trees and a fairly subdued side soi make evening outside dining pleasant. Closed Sundays.

• Khrob Khreung (ครบเครื่อง), Ari Samphan Soi 10. Famous for its kuay tiow yam bok rice noodles with fresh vegetables, topped with pork or shrimp (30 baht). Also serves up Thai-Chinese dim sum, muu stek pork satay with peanut sauce, and a wide range of other side dishes. No English sign or menu, but pointing should do the trick.

• Pad Thai Aree, Phahonyothin Soi 7 (Soi Aree). This small, unassuming shophouse, located on the right side of the street as you turn down Soi 7 from Paholyothin, is actually owned by a friend of the Royal family (note the picture of the Princess on the wall!) and serves up some delectable pad thai (and many variations) at slightly more than street stall prices (around 40-60 baht).

• Pathe, Corner of Lat Prao and Vipawadi, tel. +66-29384995. The atmosphere is great with a classic record player providing the music. Serves up some tasty food as well.

• Street food, Phahonyothin Soi 7 (Soi Aree). Just off the BTS and around the corner on Soi Aree are a multitude of street stalls selling some of Bangkok's best street food, from Chinese-style wonton noodles, Isaan specialities such as som tom, larb, gai yaang, as well as pad thai, Thai deserts and stands that can whip up basically the entire repetoire of Thai cuisine, all for around 20-30 baht per dish.

• Wake Up Cafe, Phahonyothin Soi 9. In an unlikely location down a soi near Shinawatra Tower 2, this is a surprising little oasis of greenery (outside) and clean white lines (inside). Mains around 50 baht, a fancy cup of coffee around the same amount.

• Crispy Pork and Beef Noodle places, (no idea about they Thai names), Phahonyothin Rd, just north of Soi 5, 3 minutes to BTS Aree. Two neighboring, simple and locally very popular eateries, recently relocated from inside the Aree Sois. Dedicated lunch customers 7 days a week. Mains just under 50 bath, very simple but delicious menu, only in Thai. Pointing will do.

[edit] Mid-range

• Basilico, BTS Stop Ari - Soi Ari (Phaholyothin Soi 7). Until recently known as Arancini. Italian food, with especially enticing pizzas and a good selection of decently priced wines (glass and bottle) to help you get rid of that leftover Chang taste from the afternoon.

• Som-Tum Bangkok, Ari Soi 3, tel. +66-26198659. Tucked down a leafy soi further down the street, this place is named after its showpiece som tum (green papaya salad, 45 baht and up) but features all your other Isaan favorites too, with mains in the 50-70 baht range. Seating indoors and outdoors, open from 11 AM to 11 PM.

• Baan Mae Yui (บ้านแม่ยุ้ย), 53/1 Soi Ari Samphan 1, Phahonyothin Road (10-15 minute walk from BTS Ari or short motorbike/tuk tuk ride), ☎ 02 619 9952. Tucked away in a quiet, narrow residential soi, this tiny gem has become a neighbourhood favourite (you may have to wait for a seat on weekends). Features a small menu of home-style Thai favourites (including some more old-fashioned dishes that are harder to find these days), and a daily specials menu. Dinner menu and Sunday lunch also features some quite good Western dishes as steaks, pastas and roasts, and the bakery items and home-made ice creams are worth bringing home.  edit

• Baan Puengchon, Ari 7, in the depth of the small soi opposite sub soi 2 and sub 3. Five minutes walk from BTS. In a big garden with some rabbits, possible to eat inside (AC) or outside. Often full. Surroundings cannot be better. Food is fine and prices are decent.

• Bale (บาเล่), 67/19 Lad Phrao Soi 35, ☎ 02 938-1518-9. Just inside the soi, this restaurant is a huge refurbished house and quite popular with young mobile Thai professionals. Features full band with 8 violinists, wine glass chandelier and several international beers.  edit

• Chlorophyll, Lad Phrao Soi 64. Just inside the soi, this Bali inspired restaurant features outdoor dining in a quaint garden setting. Thai and Japanese fair with an occasional musician.

• Lao Lao, Phahonyothin Rd (Between Sois 7 and 9). Chinese-style seafood restaurant that is always bustling well into the wee hours of night. Not much on atmosphere or service, but the crowds can attest that the food is terrific and the price is right. English menus available, but very local--may help to go with a Thai friend.

• La Villa Shopping Complex, Phahonyothin Rd (at Ari BTS). Houses several mid-range dining options, from the Japanese chain favourite Fuji to Korean barbecue, steakhouse, Thai and other dining venues. Also a Starbucks here and a Villa Market.

• Pickle Factory, 55 Ratchawithi Soi 2 (10-15 min from Victory Monument by tuk-tuk), tel. 22463036. Deep down a small soi in Din Daeng, this hip but relaxed lounge-cum-restaurant is neither factory nor has any pickles on their menu: instead, it's a modern residential house (complete with swimming pool) offering competent pizza (160/300 baht small/large), pasta and Thai favorites (90-150 baht).

• Suan Kularb, Soi Ari Samphan, (10-15 minute walk from BTS Ari or short motorbike/tuk tuk ride). An Ari neighborhood institution, hugely popular with both neighbourhood locals and downtown dwellers in the know. Features a surprisingly vast menu of Thai and Chinese all terrific and priced at approximately 80-150 baht per dish (seafood more expensive).

• T-House, Phaholyothin Soi 5 (Soi Ratchakru). Nice Vietnamese restaurant 50 meters down the Soi on the left hand side inside a courtyard it shares with Dragon Palace a Chinese mid range restaurant.

[edit] Splurge

• Pla Dip (ปลาดิบ), Soi Ari Samphan, ☎ 02 279-8185. 18.00-24.00. 20 min walk from BTS Ari or short motorbike/tuk-tuk ride, at the corner of Ari Samphan 7. Surprisingly chic setting and menu, drawing in a constant crowd of Bangkok hipsters and "Indie" music fanatics, this restaurant cum bar features live bands on weekends, a happening bar and a creative menu focusing on fresh fish prepared in some creative fusion styles. A bit more of a splurge for this neighborhood, with dishes easily topping 200-300 baht.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

Several bars aimed at young Thai socializers have sprung up at the Or Tor Kor farmer's market area, near Chatuchak. A stone's throw from the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station (exit #1), are at least 20 small pubs, bars and restaurants operate every day of the week.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

There are many accommodation options within a fifteen minute drive off the old Don Muang airport.

• Eastin Hotel Makkasan Bangkok, 1091/343 New Petchburi Road Makkasan, Rajthevee, ☎ +66 2 651 7600, [3]. Eastin Hotel Makkasan Bangkok is a newly renovated 280 room 4 star hotel. Features a modern residential interior design. Suitable for business or leisure traveller  edit

[edit] Budget

• Bansabai Hostel[4]. 8/137 Moo 3, Soi Sahakon 15, Latphrao 71, Latphrao Rd, Bangkok 10230, Thailand+66 2 932-9200 [5]. About 30-40 mins drive from the airport. Rooms rate between 600 - 800 baht.
• Asha Guest House[6]. 4, Soi Intamara 3, Suthisarn Road, Phayathai, Bangkok 10400, Thailand +66 (02) 271-1417 [7]. Rooms 321 fan, 482 a/c. Basic, but does those well if you're willing to use a shared bathroom - clean & neat, free wifi, restaurant (60 Baht continental breakfast buffet, various Thai/other dishes), some of the showers even have warm water. Checkout is noon.

[edit] Mid-range

• 21 Living Place, 21/44 Soi Chavakul, Rangnam rd.,Phayathai, Ratchathewi (Victory Monument BTS Station), ☎ ++66 2 6409494 (21livingplace@gmail.com), [8]. 21Livingplace is a modern service apartment offering daily, weekly and monthly rates. It is conveniently located within the walking distance from Victory Monument BTS station and 2 Blocks away from the Park on Rangnam Road THB 1200/day THB14000/month.  edit

• Comfort Suites Airport, 88/110 Viphavadi-Rangsit Road., ☎ +66-2 5528-9219 (airport@pinnaclehotels.com, fax: +66-2 5528-920), [9]. A rather basic and drab business hotel. Standard rooms 1200 baht (pre-Suvarnabhumi price).  edit

• Louis Tavern Dayrooms. Located within Don Muang itself.  edit

• Princeton Park, 3 Mitmaitri Road, Din Daeng., ☎ +66 2 617-4600, [10]. Recently refurbished hotel/service apartment easily accessible from Don Muang but not very convenient to anywhere else, even the nearest BTS/subway station. Pool, gym, cafe, convenience store. Online rates from 2600 baht (pre-Suvarnabhumi price).  edit

• Quality Suites Airport, 99/401-486 Soi Benjamitr, Chaeng Wattana Road., ☎ +66 2 982-2022 (reservation@qualitybangkok.com, fax: +66 2 982-2036), [11]. Spacious rooms but meagre facilities. The hotel's restaurant has excellent quality Thai cuisine; despite catering to travellers they don't tone it down too much. One bedroom suites from 1500 baht, two bedroom suites from 2500 baht (pre-Suvarnabhumi prices)  edit

• Rama Gardens, 9/9 Vibhavadi Rangsit Road, Laksi., ☎ +66 2 561-0022 (fax: +66 2 561-1025), [12]. A large and pleasant hotel located in spacious grounds with great facilities and courteous staff.  edit

• Reflections, 244/2-18 Pradipat Rd., Samsennai, Phayathai (near BTS Saphan Kwai), ☎ +66-22703344 (fax: +662-270-3359), [13]. Far and away the wackiest place to stay in north Bangkok, Reflections is a super-kitschy hotel. Each of the guest rooms has been designed by a different interior designer. Expect a full dose of clashing colors, bright plastic furniture and colorful mood lighting. Rooms from 2250 baht with breakfast. Note: Reflections moved in 2008, the new location is less convenient and no longer has a pool. from 1,850 to 3,450 baht.  edit

• Sandy Shelter, Ngamwongwan Road, Lak Si, ☎ +66-8 4070 9000, [14]. A small, friendly and quiet serviced apartment with daily rates 800 baht. They have free internet access to all guests. About a ten minute drive from Don Muang Airport  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Amari Airport Hotel, 333 Chert Wudthakas Road, ☎ +66 2 566-1020 (reservations@airport.amari.com, fax: +66 2 566-1941), [15]. Connected to the Don Muang airport terminal buildings by an enclosed overhead walkway.  edit

• Pullman Bangkok King Power, 8/2 Rangam Road, Phayathai (Victory Monument BTS Station), ☎ +66 2 680 9999 (hotel@pullmanbangkokkingpower.com, fax: +66 2 680 9998), [16]. Opened in 2007, this modern luxury hotel may be better value than other similarly priced hotels, although it's a bit to the north of the city core, just south of Victory Monument. An impressive lobby and more-than-ample smiling staff will greet you on arrival. The rooms reflect the 5 star status of the hotel, the executive levels offering many extras including drinks and canapes in the evening. Next door is the King Power Duty Free complex, which has a first floor boutique beer garden, plus the usual large range of duty free goods. US$80+.  edit

• Sofitel Centara Grand, 1695 Phahonyothin Road, ☎ +66 2 541-1234 (scp@chr.co.th, fax: +66 2 541-1087), [17]. Formerly called Sofitel Central. Far from central in overall terms, but next to the Convention Center, shopping center and easily accessed from the expressway and MRT and probably the best digs in this part of town.  edit

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!