Bangkok
From Wikitravel
Contents
- Bangkok is a huge city with several district articles containing sightseeing, restaurant, nightlife and accommodation listings — consider printing them all.
Bangkok (Thai: กรุงเทพฯ Krung Thep) [1] is the capital of Thailand and by far its largest city with an estimated population of over 11 million.
Bangkok is one of Asia’s most cosmopolitan cities. Created as the Thai capital in 1782 by the first monarch of the present Chakri dynasty, Bangkok is a national treasure house and Thailand’s spiritual, cultural, political, commercial, educational and diplomatic centre.
[edit] Districts
Bangkok is a huge and modern city humming with nightlife and fervour. Administratively, it is split up into 50 khet (districts), which are further split into 154 khwaeng (แขวง), but these are more often used in official business and for addresses. Visitors will find the conceptual division below of the main areas more useful for getting around.
| Sukhumvit The long Sukhumvit Road, which changes its name to Ploenchit Road and Rama I Road going west, is Bangkok's modern commercial core, full of glitzy malls and hotels. The Skytrain intersection at Siam Square is the closest thing Bangkok has to a centre. |
| Silom To the south of Sukhumvit, the area around Silom Road and Sathorn Road is Thailand's sober financial center by day, but Bangkok's primary party district by night when quarters like the infamous Patpong come alive. |
| Rattanakosin Between the river and Sukhumvit lies the densely packed "Old Bangkok", home to Bangkok's best-known sights, such as the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. |
| Khao San Road On the northern part of Rattanakosin, Bangkok's backpacker mecca Khao San Road and the surrounding district of Banglamphu have everything the budget traveler wants and more. |
| Yaowarat and Pahurat Along Yaowarat Road you will find Bangkok's Chinatown, while Pahurat Road is the home of the sizable Indian community. This multicultural district is filled with markets selling food, gold, fabrics and Bollywood VCDs. |
| Thonburi The quieter west bank of the Chao Phraya River, with Wat Arun, many small canals and some offbeat attractions. |
| Phahonyothin The area around Phahonyothin Road and Viphavadi Rangsit Road is best known for the Chatuchak Weekend Market and Don Muang Airport. |
| Ratchadaphisek The district north of Sukhumvit centered around Ratchadaphisek Road (part of which is called Asoke) and reaching from Phetchaburi Road to Lat Phrao. This area has really opened up recently as the new metro line follows Ratchadaphisek Road. |
Around Bangkok are the provinces of Pathum Thani to the north, Nonthaburi to the northwest, Chachoengsao to the east, Samut Sakhon to the southwest, and Samut Prakan to the southeast.
[edit] Understand
Just under 14 degrees north of the Equator, Bangkok is a tropical metropolis that is also one of the most traveller-friendly cities in Asia. A furious assault on the senses, visitors are immediately confronted by the heat, the pollution and the irrepressible smile that accompanies many Thais. Despite the sensationalized international news reports and first impressions, the city is surprisingly safe (except from some petty crimes) and more organized than it initially appears, and full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. The high relative humidity and warm temperature favor the growth of tropical plants — you'll find exotic orchids and delicious fruit everywhere. Bougainvillea and frangipani bloom practically everywhere. Thai cuisine is justifiably famous, varied, and affordable. Bangkok for many, represents the quintessential Asian capital. Saffron-robed monks, garish neon signs, graceful Thai architecture, spicy dishes, colourful markets, traffic jams, and the tropical climate come together in a happy coincidence. It is difficult to leave with lukewarm impressions of the city.
[edit] History
Bangkok originally was a small village on the banks of the Chao Phraya river, until a new capital was founded on the west bank (present-day Thonburi) after the fall of Ayutthaya. In 1782, King Rama I built a palace on the east bank (now Rattanakosin) and renamed the city as Krung Thep, as it is now known to Thais and which in English is translated to the 'City of Angels'. The full name "Krung thep mahanakhon amorn ratanakosin mahintharayutthaya mahadilok popnoparat ratchathani burirom udomratchanivetmahasathan amornpiman avatarnsathit sakkathattiyavisnukarmprasit" (กรุงเทพมหานคร อมรรัตนโกสินทร์ มหินทรายุธยามหาดิลกภพ นพรัตน์ราชธานี บุรีรมย์อุดมราชนิเวศน์มหาสถาน อมรพิมานอวตารสถิต สักกะทัตติยะวิษณุกรรมประสิทธิ์) is listed as the world's longest location name by the Guinness Book of Records; an English rendering goes like this: "The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city of Ayutthaya of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn". The original village has long since ceased to exist, but for some reason foreigners never caught on to the change.
Modern-day Bangkok is predominantly Thai-Chinese and they make up the majority of the population, but the city is also a second home to millions of upcountry "Thai-Thai" folk who come to make a living. The city is also home to a remarkable array of expats from all over the world, with districts inhabited by Chinese, Indians, Japanese, Koreans, Arabs and many more.
[edit] Addresses and navigation
Addresses in Bangkok use the Thai addressing system, which may be a little confusing to the uninitiated. Large roads such as Silom or Sukhumvit are thanon (ถนน), often abbreviated Th or glossed "Road/Avenue", while the side streets branching off from them are called soi (ซอย). Sois are numbered, with even numbers on one side and odd ones on the other. Thus, an address like "25 Soi Sukhumvit 3" means house/building number 25 on the 3rd soi of Sukhumvit Road. While the soi numbers on each side will always advance upward, the numbers often do not advance evenly between sides - for example, Soi 55 could be across from soi 36. Many well-known sois have an additional name, which can be used instead of the number. Soi 3 is also known as "Soi Nana", so the address above might thus also be expressed as "25 Soi Nana". The extension /x is used for new streets created between existing streets, as seen in Sukhumvit's soi pattern 7, 7/1, 7/2, 9, 11. Note that some short alleys are called trok (ตรอก) instead of soi.
To make things a little more complex, some large sois like Soi Ekamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) and Soi Ari (Phahonyothin Soi 7) have their own sois. In these cases an address like "Soi Ari 3" means "the 3rd soi off Soi Ari", and you may even spot addresses like "68/2 Soi Ekamai 4, Sukhumvit 63 Road", meaning "2nd house beside house 68, 4th soi off Ekamai, the 63rd soi of Sukhumvit". In many sois the house numbers are not simply increasing, but may spread around.
To further bewilder the tourist who doesn't read Thai, the renderings of Thai street names in the Latin alphabet are not consistent. The road running towards the (former) airport from the Victory Monument may be spelled Phahon Yothin or Pahon Yothin or Phahonyothin or Phaholyothin depending on which street sign or map you consult. It's all the same in Thai, of course, only the romanisation varies.
And if that's not confusing enough, most of the larger streets tend to change names altogether every few kilometers. Sukhumvit is called Sukhumvit on one side of the tollway (roughly east), but it becomes Ploenchit just before you cross Thanon Witthayu (aka Wireless) going towards the river. Keep going just a few more streets and it becomes Thanon Phra Ram Neung (or Rama I) after you pass Thanon Ratchadamri. But if you were to turn right onto Ratchadamri, in just a few blocks you'll find yourself on Thanon Ratchaprarop (past Petchaburi, aka New Phetburi, which is called Phitsanulok closer to the river). Got it?
Fortunately, there's logic to these name changes: most of them are neighborhoods. It wouldn't make sense to call the road Sukhumvit if it's no longer running through the Sukhumvit area, would it? Thus, Sukhumvit becomes Ploenchit where it runs though the Ploenchit area. It's when you're able to grasp the city in terms of its neighborhoods that it both becomes more navigable and more charming. Likewise, Pratunam and Chatuchak are much more than just markets; they're boroughs, each with its own distinct character.
Related to this last point, compass directions are not widely used by Thais to navigate in Bangkok. That's probably because they aren't very useful; the city's Darwinistic layout, the changing street names, the winding river, and the lack of obvious landmarks all conspire to confuse your internal compass. Thus, asking for directions in terms of "Is that west from here?" will probably earn you little more than a confused look from a local. You're better off to familiarize yourself with the neighborhoods and navigate to and from them. "How do I get to Thonglor?" will get you there faster than asking for directions to Sukhumvit Soi 55.
One exception: the Chao Phraya River is the landmark in Bangkok, and many directional references can be made as "toward the river" or "away from the river". If you aren't too close, that is: since the river winds around the most popular tourist areas, river references tend to be most helpful when you're wandering farther afield than Banglamphu or Sanam Luang or Rattana. And wander you should.
[edit] Get in
Most major roads, trains and planes in Thailand lead to Bangkok.
[edit] By plane
Bangkok has two airports operating. Allow at least three hours to connect between them.
[edit] Suvarnabhumi Airport
Located 30km (19 miles) to the east of Bangkok, space-age Suvarnabhumi Airport (สุวรรณภูมิ), pronounced "soo-wanna-poom", (IATA: BKK) (ICAO: VTBS) [2] started operations in September 2006 and is now Bangkok's main airport as well as the busiest airport in Southeast Asia. It's used by all airlines in Thailand except domestic Nok Air and One-Two-Go, which still use the old Don Muang (see below). There is only one terminal building, which covers both domestic and international flights, but it's huge (by some measures the world's largest) so allow time for getting around.
Suvarnabhumi offers all facilities expected of a major international airport (transit hotel, ATMs, money exchange). The cheapest place to eat is the Magic food court on Level 1, near Gate 8, while perhaps the most comfortable and relaxing of the airport's restaurants and cafes is the Sky Lounge on the 6th floor. Here you can have your latte while sitting in plush leather sofas and enjoying a panoramic view over the runways - prices are also tolerable with coffee around 70 baht a cup. The observation lounge on 7th is not much to see since the steel structure of the roof blocks most of the airport view. There are a few stores in the check-in area including a convenience store and a post office; however, the real shopping experience awaits travellers on the other side of immigration in the departure lounge area, where the number of shops and duty free outlets leaves you wondering if you are in a mall or an airport. Beware though, that past security in the gate waiting area, there are no services except toilets and seating.
Transportation
Limousine taxis (which charge by distance, e.g. around 800 baht to central Sukhumvit) can be reserved at the limousine hire counter on the 2nd floor (just outside Arrivals), and aggressive touts will try to entice you on board. If you allow yourself to be waylaid by one of the taxi touts they might quote you more than double the fare that an ordinary metered taxi would charge (900 baht instead of 400, for example). You'd be silly even acknowledging their existence - walk straight past them.
A better option are the ordinary metered taxis available on the 1st floor. Follow the "public taxi" signs that lead to the outside of the airport premises, queue up and state your destination at the desk (English is understood), and you'll get a two-part slip with your destination written in Thai on it. The small part is for your driver, the large part is for you. This ticket is for complaints and is how the system is enforced: hold on to it to help avoid arguments later. There is a 50-baht surcharge on top of the meter (not per passenger), meaning that trips to the city will cost 250-400 baht (plus possible expressway tolls of 45 and 25 baht) and take 40-60 minutes depending on traffic/location. No other surcharges apply, not even for going back to the airport. If there is a huge taxi queue, consider taking a limousine, or the free shuttle bus to the Public Transport Centre, which has more taxis. Go straight to the official "Taxi Stand" and wait there.
If you don't want to pay the extra 50 baht or wait in line for the taxis, there's one more option. Take the escalators/lift/stairs to the top level until you can't go up any more levels (departure level). Walk outside. You will see a scene like that pictured on the right. Walk across the first road and you will likely see people being dropped off by taxis. You may also see touts trying to get you into their taxi. More often than not, these touts are "ghost taxis" who want to charge you a fixed rate (always a rip-off) without using a meter. Ask them if they have a meter (in Thai, มีมีเต้อร์ไหม or "mee mee-TER mai?"). If they persistently ask you where you're going rather than answering whether or not they have a meter, they are surely a ghost taxi. Don't use them. Ignore them & simply hail the next taxi with the red light inside the windshield indicating they're available. The touts will be waiting for you, but the metered taxis will be dropping people off very regularly; you're just catching them before they head to the 50-baht queue downstairs. (Technically, they're not supposed to pick you up, but enforcement is very lax.)
There is also a stop outside the 1st floor exit for Airport Express buses, which charge a flat 150 baht and operate hourly from 7 AM until midnight, covering four routes, each taking about 60 to 90 minutes:
- AE1: Suvarnabhumi-Silom
- AE2: Suvarnabhumi-Khao San Road
- AE3: Suvarnabhumi-Sukhumvit
- AE4: Suvarnahhumi-Victory Monument-Hua Lamphong (train station)
To take a public bus or minivan, you must first take a free shuttle bus ride (from the outside 2nd floor) to the separate terminal (Public Transport Center). The BMTA public bus lines are:
- 549: Suvarnabhumi-Bangkapi
- 550: Suvarnabhumi-Happy Land
- 551: Suvarnabhumi-Victory Monument (BTS)
- 552: Suvarnabhumi-On Nut (BTS)-Klong Toei
- 552A: Suvarnabhumi-Sam Rong
- 553: Suvarnabhumi-Samut Phrakan
- 554: Suvarnabhumi-Don Muang Airport
- 555: Suvarnabhumi-Rangsit (Expressway)
- 556: Suvarnabhumi-Southern Bus Terminal (Expressway)
- 559: Suvarnabhumi-Rangsit (Outer Ring Road)
To give an example, the fare between Suvarnabhumi and On Nut BTS station on the 552 is 32 baht, and the journey (On Nut to the airport) takes about 40 minutes in mid-afternoon traffic. There are also privately-owned BMTA minivans to many parts of Bangkok, such as Don Muang Airport, Bang Kapi, Rangsit, Samut Prakarn, etc. They charge in flat rate 50 baht and go directly to the destination, so they are faster than the public buses, which stop frequently along the way.
These services take about 1 hour to 2 hours depending on Bangkok traffic and frequency is usually every 20 mins during daytime and night time ranges from 20 mins to 1 hour depending on route. Long-distance 1st class bus services connect Suvarnabhumi directly with Chachoengsao, Nong Khai, Pattaya, Rayong, and Trat.
An airport express train to the future City Air Terminal at Makkasan (connecting to MRT Phetchaburi) and onward to Phaya Thai (connecting to BTS Phaya Thai) is under construction, but is not expected to be ready before December 2009 at the earliest. Die-hard rail fans with lots of time to kill can take bus 517 to Hua Takhe station (15 baht), a few km from the airport, and continue on any 3rd class train to Asok or Hualamphong (7 baht).
Accommodation
At present, there are only a few hotels located near Suvarnabhumi Airport, though with huge construction projects planned for the area this will change over the next few years. Day room facilities for transit passengers are now available at the 'Miracle Grand Louis Tavern' on floor 4, Concourse G (Tel+66 6 317-2211, 2000 baht per 4-hour block, no reservations accepted). Cheapskate travellers looking for a free quiet place to doze undisturbed at night can either try their luck in the prayer rooms (although, technically, sleeping is not permitted there, according to signage), or one of the benches on the bottom floor of the terminal (which seems to be a popular choice with tourists and locals).
The Tourist Authority of Thailand and other hotel and tourist agencies have counters on the second floor of the main terminal. These agencies offer hotel reservation service. Check for special promotions and also whether the hotel offers airport pick up and drop off service - especially useful for late night arrivals and early morning departures.
- Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, Suvarnabhumi Airport, ☎ +66 2 131-1111 (res@novotelsuvarnabhumi.com), [3]. The only hotel in the airport itself, connected to the main airport terminal by a pedestrian bridge, the Novotel is very nice and, by Thai standards, very pricey. 3,500+ baht. edit
- JL Bangkok, 5 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 23 Ramkhamhaeng Road, ☎ +66 (0)2 369-2407-9 (sales@jlbangkok.com), [4]. boutique and budget accommodation in a cosy and friendly atmosphere. 1 min walk to night market and malls. 15-20 min from airport. includes daily breakfast and free wireless Internet access from 900 Baht. edit
- MetroPoint Bangkok Hotel, 666 Ramkhamhaeng 81 Road (15-20 min from airport), tel:+66 2 377-0999. Fax:+66 2 377-3848, [5]. 172 rooms with private terraces, wifi, all non-smoking. Rooms from 1,210+ Baht. Contact e-mail booking@metropointbangkok.com
- Great Residence Hotel, Lat Krabang Rd, Suvarnabhumi, Lat Krabang e-mail bookings@greatresidencehotel.com [6]. Only 5 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport on the cusp of the airport grounds. Rooms Fr. 900Bt+ (inclusive of American Breakfast & Transfer FROM Airport).
- Queen's Garden Resort, 44 Soi 7, Suvarnabhumi, Lat Krabang Fax: +66 2 172 6114, e-mail info@queensgardenresort.net[7]. The hotel is just 5-10 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Located on the banks of a sleepy river, the resort has views towards Lat Krabang Temple. Features wireless high speed internet, big screen TV, pool table, restaurant and beer garden. Rooms 900+ baht.
- Thong Ta Resort, On Nut, Suvarnabhumi, Lat Krabang e-mail info@siamairportmotel.com [8]. The resort is only 10 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Situated near a vibrant restaurant/bar parade. Rooms 800Bt+ (inclusive of American Breakfast). Free wifi in lobby and rooms.
- Grand Inn Come Hotel, 99 Moo 6, Kingkaew Road, Rachataeva, Bangplee, Samutprakan, ☎ +66 2 738-8191-3. About a 15-20 minute drive from the airport. Bus 553 stops here. 1,200 - 2,000 baht. edit
- Sananwan Palace, 18/11 moo 11. Sukapibarn Road 5 , Bangpli Yai tel: +66 2 752-1658 (Mobile) +66 818644615. Family-owned budget accommodation with swimming pool, TV and high speed internet about 20 minutes drive from the airport. Rooms with A/C: 600 baht.
- Nasa Vegas Hotel[9]. 44 Ramkhamhaeng Road. Tel :+66 2 719-9888 Fax:+66 2 719-9899 - About 15 mins drive from the new airport. Rooms from 590 + baht.
- Ratchana Place[10]. 199 Moo 4, Soi Wat Sirisaothong, Bangna Trad Highway KM 26, Bangbo, Samutprakan 10540 Tel: +66 2 313-4480~9 booking@ratchanaplace.com - About 15-20 mins drive from the airport. Rooms between 350 - 700 baht.
- Nawarat Resort & Serviced Apartment[11]. 19/49 Moo 7 Bangna-Trad Road, Km.9, Bangkaew, Bangplee, Samutprakan 10540 Tel: +66 2 750-3040~2 - About 15 mins drive from the airport. Rooms 900+ baht.
- Plai Garden Boutique Guest House[12].Soi King Keaw 43, King Keaw Rd., Rachathewa, Bangplee, Samutprakan Thailand. 10540 Tel: +662 327 7226-8 [13] - About 15 mins drive from the airport. Rooms between 900 - 1,000 baht.
- Regent Suvarnabhumi[14].30/1, 32/1 Soi Lat Krabang 22, Lat Krabang Rd., Lat Krabang, Bangkok Thailand. 10520 Tel: +662 326 7138-40 [15] - About 10 mins drive from the airport. Rooms between 1,000 - 2,000 baht.
[edit] Don Muang Airport
Don Muang Airport (IATA: DMK) (ICAO: VTBD)(or Don Mueang), 20 km north of downtown, was Bangkok's main airport until 2006. The airport currently handles Nok Air[16] and One-Two-GO [17] domestic flights, but the former international terminal is now limited to charters and general aviation.
The public taxi stand is on the sidewalk outside the arrivals area (don't be fooled by all the taxi service booths in the main hall), and is probably your best bet for getting into town — it's also your only option after 11 PM. The same booth plus slip system as at Suvarnabhumi is used here. If the line at the taxi stand is long or you need a more spacious car, you may want to book a (so-called) limousine from the desks in the terminal. This will get you a slightly nicer car at about twice the price (500-600 baht). Ignore any touts outside and do not get into any car with white license plates, as these are not licensed to carry passengers.
Across a covered overpass from the airport is the train station. Tickets to Hualamphong station cost 5 baht at the ticket booth. While taking the train is the cheapest way to get from the airport to Bangkok, it is not for the faint-of-heart: schedules are erratic, the run-down passenger cars often have beggars roaming through them, and are relatively empty late at night.
There are also a number of public transport buses going by the airport, just follow the signs out toward the train station. (Buses towards Bangkok are the airport's side of the road, so don't cross the highway!) For example the air-con bus 504 will take you to CentralWorld (a large department store formerly known as the World Trade Center), from where you'll have access to the Skytrain as well as many other buses, or Lumpini Park, from where you get access to the metro, for 22 baht. Note that large baggage is not allowed.
If you're flying Thai Airways, you can do a city check-in at Lad Phrao MRT station, from where free shuttle buses leave 1:50 before each Thai flight. The same buses also run in the reverse direction from the airport.
[edit] By bus
Bangkok's three official long haul bus terminals are:
- Eastern Bus Terminal - also known as Ekamai, this relatively compact terminal is located right next to Ekamai BTS station on Sukhumvit (E7). Ekamai serves Eastern Thailand destinations, including Pattaya, Rayong, Ban Phe, Chanthaburi and Trat.
- North & North Eastern Bus Terminal - also known as Moh Chit (or Mor Chit or Morchit), this is the largest, busiest, and most modern terminal. The upper floor serves the North-East (Isaan); the ground floor serves the North, as well as sharing some destinations with Ekamai (including Pattaya, Rayong, Chanthaburi and Trat). It's a 30-baht moto hop (or a lengthy hike across Chatuchak Park) from BTS Moh Chit/Metro Chatuchak stations (N8/18), or take the 77 bus and pay the 7-baht flat fare on board. See the Phahonyothin District guide for details.
- Southern Bus Terminal - also known as Sai Tai Taling Chan, this terminal serves all points west and south from its somewhat inconvenient location on the "wrong" side of the river. Note that in December 2007, the terminal moved to a new, even more remote location, at Phutthamonthon Soi 1 in the Taling Chan district. See the Thonburi District guide for details.
When arriving in Bangkok...
- Late at night, the easiest way from Northern or Southern terminal to your final destination will be by metered-taxi.
- By tourist bus you may find yourself delivered to their favorite hotel or guest-house, otherwise you'll probably be dropped off in the vicinity of one of the long haul terminals, or if it's a service catering primarily for backpackers, somewhere near Khao San Road.
When buying tickets for buses out of Bangkok, it's best to skip travel agents and their private buses, and get the tickets for public buses directly at the public terminals. These buses are cheaper, safer, faster and more comfortable and won't scam you onto a clapped-out minibus halfway along the way or to a bedbug-infested hotel at the end.
[edit] By train
The three main stations in Bangkok are:
[edit] Hualamphong Train Station
The main station and the terminus of the Bangkok Metro line. Located right in the middle of downtown Bangkok, it is a huge and surprisingly nice station, built during the reign of King Rama VI and spared bombing in World War II at the request of the Free Thai underground. The station has a good tourist office. Only listen to the people at the Info desk - anyone walking around offering to help you "find" a hotel or taxi is just a tout, even if they are wearing very official looking badges. Likewise, the second floor shops offering "Tourist Information" are just agents in disguise.
Tickets for trains leaving the same or next day can be bought on the counters under the red/orange/green screens (see photo). The Advance Booking Office is located to the right of the platforms as you walk towards them and is quite well organized. You can select your seat/berth from a plan of the train, and payments by credit card are accepted. Also, finally you can book an e-ticket [18] (tip: do not use special characters in the registration form if it does not work); the price is the same, however, the quota reserved for e-booking is limited, and there are only 1st and 2nd aircon sleeper class tickets available.
The taxi pick up and drop off point is to the left of the platforms as you walk towards them, and is generally chaotic at busy periods with scant regard for any queue. The left luggage facility is at the opposite end of the concourse, on the far right as you walk away from the platforms.
Travel agencies may try to sell you a private "VIP bus" ticket if there is no place in first and second class trains, claiming to offer a direct trip to the destination with a VIP bus faster than the train. Although the trip starts with a VIP bus, it ends up with a "surprise" transfer to a minibus and extremely long journeys. Just refuse the offered private bus ticket and buy public bus tickets from the main bus terminals if you cannot find a ticket for the train.
For those considering taking a train to Phuket take note; There are NO direct trains to Phuket. If taking the train is a must do, you will need to book a ticket to Surat Thani, then secure bus transit. One other important note; the last bus to Phuket from Surat Thani is in the mid-afternoon. In order to make the last bus for Phuket you will need to take a night train.
[edit] Bang Sue Train Station
If coming from the north or north-east, connecting to the Metro here can shave the last half-hour off your train trip. This is not a very good place to board trains though, as there is practically no information or signage in English. However, this situation will doubtless improve as more and more long-distance departures are switched to here from Hualamphong.
See Phahonyothin District for more details.
[edit] Thonburi Train Station
Also known as Bangkok Noi, this station is on the "wrong" side of the river in Thonburi District and is the starting point for services to Kanchanaburi (via Nakhon Pathom), River Kwae Bridge and Nam Tok.
There are two daily 3rd class trains: [19]
- Depart Thonburi 07:45, arrive Nam Tok 12:20, return 13:00, terminate Thonburi at 17:36
- Depart Nam Tok 05:25, arrive Thonburi 10:05, return 13:50, terminate Nam Tok at 18:20
Note that the weekend-only 2nd class air-con Kanchanaburi/Nam Tok "tourist" trains depart from Hualamphong. [20]
[edit] By ship
Cruise ships visiting Bangkok arrive can dock at either of two ports.
Large ships must use Laem Chabang, about 90 minutes south-east of Bangkok and about 30 minutes north of Pattaya.
- A taxi service desk is available on the wharf, but charges extortionate prices - a whopping 2600 baht to charter a taxi (4 passengers), or about 5000 baht to charter a minibus (usually 11 passenger seats), for a trip into Bangkok. Slightly lower prices can be found by walking out to the main road (about 4000 baht for a minibus), however even these rates are almost double the typical rate in the opposite direction. Better deals may be possible for round trips (even if returning the following day).
- Frequent first and second class bus services directly connect Laem Chabang with Ekamai (Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal, on Sukhumvit); less frequent direct services run to Moh Chit (Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal). A first class air-con bus (blue and white) to either will usually take 90 minutes or less; the fare is around 100 baht. A good way to make the most of a quick visit is to board an Ekamai bus and then disembark early at the On Nut Skytrain Station on Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok (the bus will always pause here provided a passenger requests it); in the opposite direction, use the Ekamai Skytrain Station and board the bus at the terminus. To get to or return from the Chatuchak Weekend Market, use the Moh Chit bus instead.
- Buses en route to Pattaya (southbound) can be boarded at the traffic lights on Sukhumvit Road in Laem Chabang, are extremely frequent (at least 10 per hour), and charge less than 50 baht.
Modest sized ships may dock farther up-river at Khlong Thoey, much closer to the city center. A modest terminal provides processing for passengers (who may receive Thai customs and immigration processing on-board), as well as offering "managers" who arrange tours and taxis. Costs to reach major hotels and points of interest are much lower than for Laem Chabang, but can vary according to passenger negotiating skills. The facility is fairly close to but beyond practical walking distance to MRT and SkyTrain stations (see "Get around" below).
[edit] Get around
Bangkok is infamous for its congestion, but these days there are ways around it: hop on the Skytrain (BTS) and metro in the city center, or use boats to navigate rivers and canals.
[edit] By train
[edit] Skytrain
The Bangkok Skytrain [21] (BTS, pronounced bee-tee-et in Thai but also rót fai fáa or just skytrain) deserves a visit simply for the Disneyland space-ageness of it. Built in a desperate effort to ease Bangkok's insane traffic and pollution, the Skytrain covers most of downtown and is especially convenient for visiting the Siam Square area. There are two lines: the light green Sukhumvit line which travels along Sukhumvit road and then goes up Phayonyothin to northern Bangkok, where it terminates near the Chatuchak Weekend Market (N8), and the red Silom line, which travels from the Silom area, interchanges with the Sukhumvit line at Siam Square (C) and ends at National Stadium, right next to MBK. There isn't, unfortunately, a station near Banglampu District (aka the Khao San Road area), but the river ferry connects between Tha Banglampu and Tha Sathorn, served by Saphan Taksin (S6) on the Silom line from the morning till around 6-7PM.
You must have 5 or 10 baht coins to purchase Skytrain tickets from the vending machines near the entrance, so hold on to them. Fares range from 15 to 40 baht depending upon how many zones you are traveling. Consult the map (in English) near each ticket machine. If you do not have coins, queue for change from the staff at the booth. If you are in town for several days (and/or going to make several visits during next 30 days), weigh your options and consider a rechargeable stored-value card (from 100 baht, with a 30-baht refundable deposit and a 30 baht non-refundable card cost), a "ride all you like" tourist pass (from 120 baht/day) or a multiple ride pass of 20 trips or more to any zone (20 trips cost 440 baht, plus 30 baht refundable deposit for a rechargeable card valid for 5 years). They will certainly save you time, scrambling for coins, and maybe even money. Check for information with the English speaking staff.
Four stations are fully accessible to wheelchair users, plus one station, On Nut, is accessible only on the arrival side. The other fully accessible stations are Asok/Sukhumvit, Siam, Chong Nonsi and Mo Chit. To proceed to concourse level in these stations, you can use the lift - press the call button and an attendant will come and get you. At On Nut stations on the departures side, the attendant will help you also to get to platform level through the escalator since the elevator can be used only to get to intercourse level. Siam Station is also accessible independently through the linked Siam Paragon department store.
For more information, contact the Bangkok Mass Transit System at Tel: 0 2617 7340, 0 2617 6000 or visit [22]
[edit] Metro
Bangkok Metro [23] (MRT, pronunced em-ar-tee in Thai but also rót fai tai din)finally opened in July 2004. The Blue Line connects the central Hualamphong railway station (1) to the northern Bang Sue station (18), with interchanges to the Skytrain at Silom/Sala Daeng (3/S2), Sukhumvit/Asok (7/E4) and Chatuchak/Mo Chit (15/N8). You can also transfer to north/northeast-bound SRT trains at the northern terminus Bang Sue. The metro is much less used by tourists than the Sky Train but can be very useful. The terminus at Hualamphong station provides good access to Chinatown and many of the main tourist sites. Silom station is right next to the "Patpong" market and nightlife area.
Metro tickets are not interchangeable with Skytrain tickets. Rides start from 15 baht and are based on distance; pre-paid cards of up to 1000 baht are also available. For single ride fares, a round plastic token is used.
The metro stop for the Chatuchak Weekend Market is not Chatuchak Park, but one stop further at Kamphaeng Phet (16). The latter drops you right inside the market.
All metro stations are fully accessible to wheelchair users. If the elevator has been put out of service, just ask the security staff present at every station and an attendant will come and get you to help you to deal with all the process of buying tickets and get to the train platform level.
For more information call 0 2624 5200 or visit [24] for further information.
Note that at present bag-checks take place at the entrance to each station, although it is usually nothing more than a quick peek inside unless you are looking particularly suspicious.
[edit] By boat
A ride on the Chao Phraya River should be high on any tourist's agenda. The cheapest and most popular option is the Chao Phraya Express Boat [25], basically an aquatic bus plying up and down the river. The basic service (12 baht) plies from Wat Rajsingkorn (S4) all the way to Nonthaburi (N30), with stops at most of Rattanakosin's major attractions including the Grand Palace, the Temple of Dawn, etc. Board at piers with a sign showing the route and pay the ticket collector who will approach you bearing a long metal cylinder. In addition to the basic service, there are express services flagged with yellow or orange flags, which stop only at major piers and should be avoided unless you're sure where you're going, because otherwise you could end up a long way further along the river than you planned. The signposting of the piers is quite clear, with numbered piers and English route maps, and the Central station offers easy interchange to the BTS Saphan Taksin station. The boats run every 5 to 20 minutes from sunrise (6 AM) to sunset (7 PM) every day, so ignore any river taxi touts who try to tell you otherwise.
Most piers are also served by cross-river ferries which are particularly useful for reaching Wat Arun or Thonburi. They run every few minutes and cost 2-3 baht - pay at the kiosk on the pier and then walk through the turnstile.
In addition to the workaday express boat, there is also a Tourist Boat which stops at a different subset of piers, offers commentary in English and charges a flat 150 baht for a day pass. The boats are slightly more comfortable and may be worth considering if you just want to cruise up and down, but they only operate every 30 minutes and stop running by 3 PM.
Canal boats also serve Khlong Saen Saeb, one of Bangkok's many canals (khlong). They're cheap and immune to Bangkok's notorious traffic jams, but mostly used by locals who use these water taxis to commute to work and school and shopping, so you get to see the 'backside' of the neighborhoods, so to speak. They're also comparatively safe -- just watch your step when boarding and disembarking (they don't stop at the pier for long) and be wary of the water as it can be quite polluted, do not let it get in your eyes. To prevent splashes, the boats are equipped with little curtains that you can raise by pulling on a string, but they have to be lowered at every stop so people can clamber on board! Pay the fare (14-22 baht) to the fearless helmet-wearing ticket collectors who clamber around on the outside of the boat, ducking at bridges, as it barrels down the canal. The canal runs parallel to Petchaburi Road, and provides the easiest access from the city center to the Golden Mount. There's a boarding pier across from the Central World Plaza under the bridge where Ratchadamri crosses the khlong near Petchburi, and piers now even have (tiny) signs in English. Be aware that for journeys going beyond Pratunam, passengers have to change boats at Pratunam. Hold on to your ticket. The only station missing a sign in English is the stop at The Mall in Bangkapi, and it's not obvious that it's a mall from the canal boat!
Finally, for trips outside the set routes, you can hire a long-tail river taxi at any major pier. These are fairly expensive and will attempt to charge as much as 500 baht/hour, but with haggling may be suitable for small groups. To circumvent the mafia-like touts who attempt to get a large cut for every ride, agree for the price of the shortest possible ride (half an hour etc), then negotiate directly with the captain when on board.
[edit] By bus
Local buses, mostly operated by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA), are the cheapest but also the most challenging way of getting around, as there is a bewildering plethora of routes, usually marked only in Thai. If you can speak Thai you can call 184 Bus Route Hotline. Bus stops usually list only the bus numbers that stop there and nothing more. They are also subject to Bangkok's notorious traffic, often terribly crowded, and many are not air-conditioned. If you want to get somewhere quickly and are not prepared to get lost, the buses should be avoided (remember that taxis are cheaper than most local buses in the west). However, they make for a good adventure if you're not in a rush and you don't mind being the centre of attention.
But for the intrepid, and those staying in Khao San Road where buses are the only practical means of public transport, the best online resource for decrypting bus routes is the official BMTA homepage [26], which has up-to-date if slightly incomplete listings of bus routes in English but no maps. You can also ask your guesthouse about buses to where you are going. If you're going between Khao San Road and downtown, bus number 2 (red and cream) is probably your best option. As a printed reference, the Bus Routes & Map guide (50 baht) by Bangkok Guides is another option.
The hierarchy of Bangkok's buses from cheapest to best can be ranked as follows:
- Small green bus, 6.50 baht flat fare. Cramped, no air-con, no fan, famously suicidal drivers, usually not advisable for more than short hops. Run by private operators, they can be significantly faster than the BMTA-run buses.
- Red bus, 7 baht flat fare. More spacious and fan-cooled (in theory). Unlike other buses, some of these run through the night (1.50 baht surcharge). These buses are BMTA run.
- White/blue bus, 8.5 baht flat fare. Exactly the same as the red buses, but cost one baht more. These buses are owned by private entities operated in conjunction with BMTA.
- Blue/Yellow and Cream/Blue air-con, 11 baht for the first 8 kilometers, up to 18 baht max. These buses are quite comfy. The blue/yellow striped buses are privately owned while the Blue/Cream buses are BMTA owned.
- Orange air-con (Euro II), 13 baht for the first few kilometers, up to 22 baht max. These are all BMTA-run, newer, and more comfortable.
- Pink/white micro-buses - not quite so common away from the city centre - these are air-conditioned, modern and only allow seated passengers (making them harder to use at rush hour as many won't stop for you). Flat fare is 25 baht which is paid into a fare-collection machine located next to the driver - exact fare only.
Buses stop only when needed, so wave them down (arm out, palm down) when you see one barreling your way. Pay the roaming collector after you board and keep the ticket as there are occasional spot-checks. Press the signal buzzer (usually near the door) when you want to get off.
Two further pitfalls are that buses of the same number may run slightly different routes depending on the color, and there are also express services (mostly indicated by yellow signs) that skip some stops and may take the expressway (2 baht extra).
Airport buses allow luggage (backpacks and suitcases), but regular buses do not. Enforcement of this rule varies.
[edit] By taxi
Taxis are a quick and comfortable way to get around town, at least if the traffic is flowing your way. All taxis are now metered and air-conditioned: the hailing fee is 35 baht and most trips within Bangkok cost less than 100 baht. There are no surcharges (except from the airport), even at night; don't believe drivers who try to tell you otherwise. A red lit sign on the front window means that the taxi is available.
When the meter is switched on you will see a red '35' somewhere on the dashboard or between the driver and you. Be sure to check for this at the start of the ride, as many drivers will "forget" to start the meter in order to overcharge you at the end of your trip. Most will start the meter when asked politely to do so (meter na khrap/kha (male/female)); if the driver refuses to use the meter after a couple of attempts, simply exit the taxi. In some cases, late at night and especially near major tourist districts like Khao San or Patpong, you will need to walk a block away to catch a meter cab. The effort can save you as much as 150 baht. This is often also the case for taxis that park all day in front of your hotel. The only two reasons that they are there: 1) To take you places where they can get their commissions (Jewelry stores, massage parlors, etc) and 2) To overcharge you by not using the meter. Your best bet is to walk to the road and catch an unoccupied metered taxi in motion (easier than it sounds, as Bangkok traffic tends to crawl the majority of the time, and one car out of four is a taxi). Avoid parked taxis altogether, and if a taxi driver refuses to turn the meter on, simply close the door and find one who will. Keep in mind that it is illegal for them to have unmetered fares. Be smart and give your money to honest drivers, not touts. The only reason they get away with this so frequently is because foreign tourists let them.
Be sure to either know the correct pronunciation of your destination, or have it written in Thai, as taxi drivers in Bangkok are notoriously bad at reading maps. Most hotels and guesthouses will happily write out addresses in Thai for you. While most drivers will recognize the names of tourist hot spots, even if grossly mispronounced, it is often difficult to properly pronounce addresses in Thai, a tonal language. If your mobile phone works in Thailand, it is sometimes useful to phone your hotel and ask the staff to speak to your driver in Thai.
If you're pinching pennies or fussy about your means of transportation, you may wish to think twice before getting into one of the (very common) yellow-green taxis. They are owner-operated and of highly variable quality, and occasionally they have rigged meters. All other colors belong to large taxi companies, which usually enforce their standards better.
On some routes, the driver will ask if he should use the Tollway - this will usually save a lot of time. You have to pay the cost at the toll booth (not in advance, and not at the end of the journey). Watch how much the driver really pays, he may try to keep the change.
When getting out, try to have small bills (100 baht or less) or expect problems with change. Tips are not necessary, but are certainly welcome; most local passengers will round up, or leave any coin change as tip.
[edit] By motorbike
When traffic slows to a crawl and there are no mass-transit alternatives for your destination, by far the fastest mode of transport is a motorbike taxi (or in Thai, motosai lapjang). No, those guys in the pink smocks aren't biker gangs; they're motosai cabbies. They typically wear colorful fluorescent yellow-orange vests and wait for passengers at busy places. Prices are negotiable; negotiate before you ride.
 WARNING: Motorcycle accidents are brutally common, and many (tourists and Thai alike) consider transportation of this sort to be inherently hazardous. Motorcycle taxis in Bangkok should generally be avoided except as a last resort. |
For the adrenaline junkie, a wild motosai ride can provide a fantastic rush. Imagine weaving through rows of stopped vehicles at 50km/h with mere centimetres to spare on each side, dodging pedestrians, other motorbikes, tuk-tuks, stray dogs and the occasional elephant while the driver blithely ignores all traffic laws and even some laws of physics. Now do the same while facing backwards on the bike and balancing a large television on your lap, and then you can qualify as a local - though you might die in the process. Imagine your loved ones arranging to ship your dead body home from Bangkok because you took a dangerous risk you were warned not to.
The overwhelming majority of motorcycle taxis do not travel long distances, but simply shuttle up and down long sois (side-streets) not serviced by other transport for a fixed 5-20 baht fare. These are marginally less dangerous, especially if you happen to travel with the flow on a one-way street.
The law requires that both driver and passenger must wear a helmet. It is the driver's responsibility to provide you with one, so if you are stopped by police, any fine is also the driver's responsibility. This is worth bearing in mind when you hire a motorbike or moped. Make sure that if there are two of you, the hirer provides two helmets not one. When riding, keep a firm grasp on the seat handle and watch out for your knees.
[edit] By tuk-tuk
Finally, what would Bangkok be without the much-loathed, much-loved, tuk-tuks? You'll know them when you hear them, and you'll hate them when you smell them — these three-wheeled contraptions blaze around Bangkok leaving a black cloud of smog in their wake. For anything more than a 5-10 minute jaunt or just the experience, they really are not worth the price — and, if you let them get away with it, the price will usually be 4 or 5 times what it should be anyway (which, for Thais, is around 30% less than the equivalent metered taxi fare). On the other hand, you can sometimes ride for free if you agree to visit touristy clothing or jewelry shops (which give the tuk-tuk driver gas coupons and commissions for bringing customers). The shops' salesmen are pushy, but you are free to leave after five to ten minutes of browsing. Visitors should beware though, sometimes one stop can turn in to three, and your tuk-tuk driver may not be interested in taking you where you need to go once he has his gas coupons. Also, with Bangkok's densly congested traffic it is sure to spend hours of your time.
In case you actually want to get somewhere, and you're an all-male party, be careful with the tuk-tuk drivers, they will usually just ignore your destination and start driving you to some bordello ("beautiful girls"). Insist continually and forcefully on going only to your destination.
There's also a less-heralded, less-colourful and less-touristy version of the tuk-tuk that usually serves the back sois in residential neighborhoods. They usually have four wheels instead of three and resemble a tiny truck / ute / lorry, and they run on petrol instead of LP. The maids and locals tend to use them to return home from market with loads of groceries, or for quick trips if they're available. Negotiate before you get in, but don't expect to go much beyond the edge of that particular neighborhood.
[edit] By bicycle
Go cycling! It may sound crazy, but it certainly is not. Away from the main roads there is a vast system of small streets and alleys. Cyclists are treated as pedestrians, so you can use your bicycle to explore parks, temple complexes, markets and the more quiet residential areas of eastern Bangkok. In more crowded places you can cycle on the sidewalk. Exploring the town by bicycle has all the advantages of going by foot, combined with a much greater action radius and a cooling breeze when cycling.
If you want to experience Bangkok hideaways and countryside, leisurely cycling through green paddy fields, colorful orchid farms, peaceful lotus fields and touched by the charm of Thai way of country life at personal level, bicycle is a great way to do it.
- Andre Breuer - Recreational Bangkok Biking, Soi 71, Rama III Road, Yannawa, ☎ Office: 02 - 285 3955 of : 02 - 285 3867 Mr. Andre's GSM: 0 81 - 1705906 (info@bangkokbiking.com, fax: 02 - 2853431), [27]. 1000 Baht. edit
- Co van Kessel Bangkok tours, ☎ Office: 02 - 322 9481 or: 02 - 752 6818 - 9 Mr. Co's mobile: 0 87 - 824 1931 Miss Nong's mobile: 0 87 - 054 9878 (covankessel@yahoo.com), [28]. Half-day tours from 950 baht. 950 Bath. edit
- SpiceRoads, ☎ Office: 02 - 712 5305 or: 089 895 5680 (enquiries@spiceroads.com, fax: 02 712 5305), [29]. 09:00-18:00. One-day and multi-day cycling trips in and around Bangkok. from 1,000 THB. edit
- Thailand Green Ride, ☎ Office: 02 - 888 9637 or: 081 3183561 (query@thailandgreenride.com, fax: 02 888 9693), [30]. 09:00-17:00. Half-day, one-day and home stay overnight cycling trips in green Bangkok countryside. edit
[edit][add listing] See
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Peoplespotting More than any other place in Thailand, Bangkok offers wonderful opportunities for just sitting and watching people go by. Here's a partial checklist:
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Most of Bangkok's sights are concentrated in the Old City on Rattanakosin Island. Out of Bangkok's hundreds of temples, the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun usually make up the top 3. The Grand Palace has an immense size and expect to spend at least a full morning or afternoon there. Within the palace grounds is Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), the most sacred Buddhist temple in Thailand. Unlike other temples, it is not one building, nor are there are living spaces for monks. Instead, it is a collection of highly decorated holy buildings and monuments.
Nearby is Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha), home to the world's largest reclining Buddha image and a famed massage school. Cross the Chao Phraya river for the outstanding Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). The main structure is about 70 meters high and it is surrounded by four smaller prangs. It is one of Thailand's most picturesque temples, and it is engraved on the inner part of all ten baht coins. If you climb it, and look closely, you will see that it is actually beautifully decorated with colorful Chinese porcelain pieces. Other major temples include the Golden Mount, Wat Suthat and Wat Rajnadda.
Bangkok is a good place to see traditional Thai-style residences. Most people take a tour through Jim Thompson's House, the CIA-operative's mansion assembled by combining six traditional Thai-style houses. Ban Kamthieng, M.R. Kukrit's Heritage Home and the Suan Pakkad Palace could also make for a nice experience. Another interesting museum is the Dusit Palace, situated in a leafy, European-style area built by king Chulalongkorn to escape the heat of the Grand Palace. It's main structure is the Vimanmek Mansion, the largest golden teakwood house in the world, but you could spend your whole day in the museums here. Other museums include the National Museum about Thai history and archaeology, as well as the Museum of Siam and the King Prajadhipok Museum. Bangkok has a small, but vocal, art community, and you might want to visit the National Gallery, The Queen's Gallery, or one of it's numerous smaller galleries.
Lumpini Park is the largest park in central Bangkok, and a nice way to escape the fumes. Backpackers around Khao San Road tend to head for Santichaiprakarn Park, a small, but worthy, park along the Chao Phraya river. It has a breezy atmosphere, a fort and a nice view on the modern Rama VII bridge. Zoos and animal farms are some of the most popular tourist attractions in Bangkok, but before visiting, please be aware that animal welfare in Thailand is not strictly regulated. The poor living conditions of the Dusit Zoo and Safari World as well as the inadequate veterinary care at these locations are examples of the sad mistreatment of the animal population. You can't go wrong at the Queen Saovabha Snake Farm, as the staff takes good care of their snakes and they have a job of informing the public about their risks. Siam Ocean World also makes for a nice family attraction. It is the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia.
[edit] Itineraries
- One day in Bangkok - If you have just one day to spare and want to catch a feel for the city.
- Four days in Bangkok - Most people spend a couple of days in Bangkok, this is the itinerary.
- Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City overland - A suggested one-week trip through the heart of former Indochina.
[edit][add listing] Do
Taking a bicycle tour of Bangkok is highly recommended. There are a handful of specialist operators that offer daily or regular departures to the Bangkok Jungle, an area across the river from downtown Bangkok where there are few cars or buildings, or through the backstreets of China Town. It sounds strange but a cycle tour in Bangkok really is the best way to discover the city up close. Sightseeing Along the Chao Phraya River is another great way to see the city, There are special boat trips designed for foreign tourists along the Chao Phraya River to take in sites such as the Grand Palace. They are quite pointless though, as the public passenger ferry does exactly the same trip. In fact, they are even better as they go all the way up to Nonthaburi Town. For a good trip take a public passenger ferry from near the Saphan Taksin BTS skytrain station and go up to Nonthaburi Town, enjoy the afternoon in this pleasant laid back traditional urban town and take the boat back.
[edit] Thai Boxing
Thai Boxing or Muay Thai is both a sport and means of self defence. Contestants are allowed to use almost any part of their body: feet, elbows, legs, knees, and shoulders, are all weapons. The playing of traditional music during bouts makes for even greater excitement. There are two venues in Bangkok for this type of sport.
- Ratchadamnoen Stadium (สนามมวยราชดำเนิน), Ratchadamnoen Nok Road, ☎ 0 2281 4205. M,W,Th 6.30PM-10.30PM, Su 5PM-8PM & 8.30PM-midnight. edit
- Lumphini Stadium (สนามมวยลุมพินี), Rama IV Road, ☎ 0 2251 4303. Tu,F 6.30PM,Sa 5PM & 8.30PM. edit
[edit] Elephant riding
Elephants are a large part of Thailand’s tourist trade, and the smuggling and mistreatment of elephants for tourist attractions is quite a widespread practice. Be aware that elephants are often separated from their mothers at a young age to be cruelly trained under captivity for the rest of their lives. Organizations such as The Elephant Nature Park in Chiang Mai are an ethical alternative for elephant tourism.
[edit] Cultural performances
Puppet Theatre, Theatrical perfomances, Thai Dance etc., Listings have been lifted to the Do section of districts, this section could use a write up if you a familiar enough with the subject to provide a general overview.
[edit] Wellness
Spas, traditionally, were towns where public baths, hospitals or hotels were built on top of mineral springs so that people could come and make use of the healing properties found in the water and its mud for medical purposes. These days, a spa doesn’t have to be a town built on natural thermal springs. It can be a place anywhere that anyone can go to, to relax in tranquil surroundings with a variety of treatment administered to recontour and rejuvenate the body and mind. All self-respecting hotels in Bangkok will have a spa operating on premises offering at least traditional massage services. These tend to charge a premium but also offer some the best treatments in town. Particularly well-regarded spas include Deverana [31] at the Dusit Thani and the eponymous operations at Banyan Tree [32] and the legendary Oriental [33] — the last of these being probably the most expensive in town, offering (among other things) a 6-hour Oriental Romance package for two costing a whopping US$535. Independent spas offer much the same experience but are a little more competitive due to the lack of a captive customer base. Figure on 1000 baht and up per hour for most treatments.
The ubiquitous little massage shops found on every street corner in town, offer the best value for money but the smallest range of services, with offerings usually limited to massage only. It is fairly easy to distinguish legitimate massage shops from more dubious places: the real deal will charge 250-400 baht for a typical two-hour massage and will often have a row of beefy farmers' daughters in white coats working on customers' feet in public view, while the other kind has wispy things in evening dresses and too much makeup yelling "Hello handsome" at every passing male.
[edit] Entertainment
Horse Races are held on Sunday from 12.30PM-6.00PM at two alternate turf clubs, The Royal Turf Club of Thailand (ราชตฤณมัยสมาคม), on Phitsanulok Road or the Royal Bangkok Sports Club (ราชกรีฑาสโมสร) [34], on Henri Dunant Road.
Bangkok is a great place to go to the movies. If you are coming from the West, the cost of a cinema ticket is a complete bargain, around B120. Most of the cinemas are of the highest world-class standards and show all the latest releases. Major Cineplex and SFX are some of the largest chain cinemas. They are also up to par with technological innovations in the movie industry - expect to wear 3D glasses for some of the Hollywood releases, or visit an an IMAX Theater on Rangsit Roador the IMAX theater at Siam Paragon. Just like the capital’s cinemas, bowling centers are of a superb standard with some of them resembling the inside of a discotheque. Dance while you play style. Top class private karaoke lounges can be found at some of the bowling centers and major hotels.
[edit] Events
All of Thailand's major festivals are celebrated in Bangkok, see Thailand#Holidays for the full scoop.
- Chinese New Year Festival. The place to go is naturally Bangkok's Chinatown, Yaowarat, where the main road is closed to cars and many stores and food stands crowd the road, with grandiose and colourful Chinese lion and dragon processions.
- Bangkok Songkran Festival. The traditional Thai New Year is an occasion for merriment all over the city, but most notably at Sanam Luang, near the Grand Palace, where the revered Phra Phuttha Sihing image is displayed and bathed by devotees. In the Wisutkasat area, a Miss Songkran beauty contest is held and accompanied by merry-making and entertainment. Khao San Road degenerates into a war zone as farangs and locals duke it out with super soakers.
- Royal Ploughing Ceremony, May An ancient Brahman ritual, conducted at Sanam Luang, is what farmers believe is able to forecast the abundance of the next rice crop. The event is a result of a series of ceremonies that are conducted by Phraya Raek Na, portrayed by a high-ranking official who wears colourful traditional costumes. This ceremony was re-introduced in 1960 by H.M. King Bhumibol Adulyadej and is considered the official commencement of the rice-growing season, as well as the rainy season. Nowadays, the ceremony is conducted by the Crown Prince.
- Trooping of the Colours, December. Their majesties the King and Queen preside over this impressive annual event, held in the Royal Plaza near the equestrian statue of King Chulalongkorn. Dressed in colourful uniforms, amid much pomp and ceremony, members of the elite Royal Guards swear allegiance to the King and march past members of the Royal Family.
- HM The King’s Birthday Celebrations December 5. Ratchadamri Road and the Grand Palace are elaborately decorated and illuminated, and in the evening hundreds of thousands line the route from Sanam Luang to Chitlada Palace to get a glimpse of the King when he is slowly chauffeur-driven past.
[edit] Learn
[edit] Thai Boxing Schools
- The Muay Thai Institute,(โรงเรียนมวยไทย) [35] 317 Phaholyothin Road, Tambon Prachathipat, Amphoe Thanyaburi, Pathum Thani Province. Tel: 0 2992 0096-9.
- Fairtex Muay Thai Fitness [36] 99/8 Mu 3 Soi Buntham Anuson, Tambon Bang Phli Yai, Amphoe Bang Phli, Samut Prakan Province. Tel: 0 2757 5147, 0 2386 6117-9.
[edit] Cooking
Thai cuisine is a favorite of many, and many cooking schools provide half-day classes that provide a nice break from the day-to-day sightseeing monotony.
- BaiPai Cooking School. Tel. 02-294-9029 info@baipai.com [37]. A nice casual cooking school with a nice modern design in the middle of a residential neighborhood. Their van will pick you up from your hotel or Bangkok location, because it's not easy to find. Instructors are fun and informative, and you get a souvenir printed photo and one is even emailed to you. Class run from 9:30AM to about 1:30PM, closed Mondays.
- Blue Elephant. Tel. 02-673-9353 cooking.school@blueelephant.com [38]. Take classes from one of the most famous chains of Thai restaurants in the world. While the price is substantially higher than others in Bangkok, class takes place in the historic Blue Elephant restaurant, and while dining on your creations, wine, extra dishes and dessert are served. And they give you a Blue Elephant apron as well.
- Mai Kaidee. Tel. 08-91-373-173 veginfo@maykaidee.com [39]. A vegetarian and vegan cooking school near Khao San with a location in Chiang Mai as well. You'll shop at the local market to pick fresh ingredients and learn meat-free traditional Thai recipes (as well as unique food such as the delicious pumpkin hummous). The owner has been an experienced vegan cook for many years and has a recipe book available for purchase. The school also has an attached restaurant with many various dishes.
Other schools include:
- Thai House: (บ้านไทย) [40] Tel: 0 2903 9611, 0 2997 5161 Fax: 0 2903 9354
- International Baking School (โรงเรียนขนมอบนานาชาติ) (Opposite Chatuchak Weekend Market) Lad Yao, Tel: 0 2272 5692-3, 0 2272 5663, 0 2272 5654.
- Thai & International Food Academy (โรงเรียนธุรกิจการอาหารไทยและนานาชาติ) [41] 1004 Rama III Rd., Bang Phong Phang, Yannawa, Bkk. Tel: 0 2682 7644, Fax: 0 2682 8845.
- Suan Dusit International Culinary School (โรงเรียนการอาหารนานาชาติสวนดุสิต) [42] Tel: 0 2244 5391-3.
- The Modern Woman Institute (แม่บ้านทันสมัย) [43] Tel: 0 2 279 2831, 279 2834 .
- UFM Baking & Cooking School (โรงเรียนสอนการผลิตอาหารและขนมมาตรฐาน) [44] Tel: 0 2259 0620-30, 0 2260 5280-300 Fax: 0 2259 0632.
- Wandee Culinary School (โรงเรียนครัววันดี) [45] Tel: 0 2279 9844-5, 0 2279 2204, 08 1916 7083.
A Thai cooking class is also arranged by some of the top hotels. They are:
- Bangkok Mariott Resort and Spa (โรงแรมแมริออท รีสอร์ท แอนด์ สปา) [46] (Near Krung Thep Bridge), Thon Buri Tel: 0 2476 0021-2.
- Shangri-la Hotel (โรงแรมแชงกรีล่า) [47] Tel: 0 2236 7777 Fax: 0 2237 3688.
- Tai Pan (โรงแรมไทปัน) [48] Tel: 0 2260 9888, 0 2260 9898 ext. 2007.
- Thai Cooking School at the Oriental [49] Charoen Nakhon Rd., Tel: 0 2659 9000 ext. Thai cooking school.
- The Landmark Hotel (โรงแรมแลนมาร์ค) [50] Tel: 0 2254 0404 Fax: 0 2253 4259.
[edit] Buddhism
Meditation, the essence of ‘pure’ Buddhism, can be practiced at any temple in Thailand. In Bangkok however, there are also two well-known centers that cater specifically to foreigners wishing to learn or/and practice.
- The International Buddhist Meditation Centre. Wat Mahathat, 3 Maharat Road, Phraborommaharatchawang, tel. 2623-6325 [51]. Meditation classes in English are held at 7-10AM, 1-4PM and 6-8PM everyday in section 5 of the temple. Attendance is free of charge, but donations are welcome. Getting there: Take the river taxi to Chang Pier (between Silpakorn University and the Thammasat University). From there the center is a short walk.
- The World Fellowship of Buddhists. 2nd Floor, No.616 Benjasiri Park, Soi Medhinivet (off Soi Sukhumvit 24), tel:2661-1284(-90) [52]. Offers meditation classes in English from 2 to 5:30PM on the first Sunday of every month. The office also provides information on places to learn and practice meditation in Thailand. Classes and information are free.
Meditation: If you can speak and understand Thai language well, you may wish to go on your own retreat at a quiet temple on the outskirts of Bangkok. To pay for your stay it is appreciated that you assist the resident monks on their morning alms rounds.
[edit] Thai massage
- The Wat Po temple in Rattanakosin offers well-regarded massage courses. While aimed squarely at tourists, this is not necessarily a bad thing, as they're used to conducting classes in English.
- Union of Thai Traditional Medicine Society offers a more than reasonable alternative to the courses in Wat Po, as they pay more attention to the individual student and practices, conveniently located close to the China Town Pier (No. 5). Contact: Mr. Praphai Kingmala (66) - 087-929-8574, 272 - 274 Rachawong Rd, Sampantawong.
[edit][add listing] Buy
Bangkok is full of shopping malls and street markets of all types, especially in the Sukhumvit area; see the section for details. Prices can be cheap by Western standards, especially for locally produced items such as clothes, although bargaining is expected and required. Dump a teenager in Siam Center, Siam Square, Siam Paragon, MBK or The Emporium with a few thousand baht and they'll stay occupied for the rest of the week! Most malls tend to have excellent food courts.
Animal Souvenirs: Due to its location, lax laws, and resources, many illegal animal products come through Bangkok. Rare and endangered species are often sold at markets for pets (especially at Chatuchak), and many other animal products are sold as luxury items. Avoid buying rare pets, leather, ivory, talons, dried sea creatures (starfish, etc.), fur, feathers, teeth, wool, and other products, as they are most likely the result of illegal poaching, and contributes greatly to animal endangerment and abuse.
Weekend Market: A major attraction on weekends is the gigantic Chatuchak Weekend Market (a.k.a. JJ Market), in northern Bangkok but easily accessible by Skytrain and Metro. Take the metro and get off Kamphaeng Phet station which opens right into the market. Takes around an hour on the bus from Khao San Road area. If you're staying in Pratunam, metered fare should not go beyond 100 baht. Has 20,000 stalls selling everything from counterfeit goods, animals, art, furniture and probably anything else you can think of. Definitely worth a visit for the sheer size of it. There are food stalls everywhere. Forego the cutesy cafes for the humbler stalls. Flavored iced and fried wontons will provide fuel for the whole day. Closes at around 6PM. Keep a close eye on your valuables.
Night Market: Hugely popular with tourists & locals alike is the open air Suan Lum Night Bazaar. This is a large and colourful market offering bargains on everything from clothes, bags, crockery to organic foods. A smaller, cooler and cleaner version of Chatuchak - same wares sold for 20% more. There is a large food court with a live band every night. Beer seems to be the official beverage of this place - lots of beer gardens here. Covered in more detail in the Silom section.
Patpong Night Market: Between the strip clubs and bars along Patpong Road is the Patpong night market. This market is designed for tourists and is not frequented by locals. These markets are home to a variety of counterfeit merchandise including watches, clothes, bags, and cosmetics as well as Thai tourist products such as model tuk-tuks and kick-boxing shorts. The prices at this market are exorbitant and anyone brave enough to buy anything here should bargain extensively. Most items available at Patpong Night Market are available for less than half the price at other locations in Bangkok.
[edit] What to buy
- Books: B2S on the the 3rd floor of the Central World Plaza is Bangkok's largest bookstore, holding around 30,000 titles (many in English) and a large selection of magazines. Japanese chain Kinokuniya [53] also has a large outlet in Siam Paragon (Level 3 South) and one in Emporium, both with a very large selection of books in English (the Paragon branch also has a limited selection of books in German and French). The Asia Books [54] chain has several outlets all over Bangkok (see their web site); they have a good selection of books on Asia as well as books on architecture, interior design and decoration. Lastly if you want to trade books, or else buy second hand books, there is a shop between Sukhumvit soi 33 and 35 that does this for quite a reasonable price and is quite popular with the local expats.
- Clothing: off-the-shelf: Thailand is a major clothing manufacturer and locally produced unbranded clothing is very cheap. Siam Center, Siam Square, MBK, Platinum mall and Chatuchak weekend market are a few places to visit for this. Branded clothing made in Thailand (eg. Levi's jeans) can also be good buys. For women, the lingerie salons in the department stores are must-sees. Wacoal is locally produced and are half the price in Bangkok.
- Clothing: tailored: Bangkok is well-known for its plethora of tailors and high-quality fabric available locally. The vast majority of tailor shops are actually just sales fronts for a few large operations that do the actual work, so don't fret too much about which one to pick; however, do avoid any tailor recommended by taxis/tuktuks or that has to resort to touts, as you'll have to pay their commission. Avoid super-cheap packages or anything done in 24 hours, as the quality will suffer accordingly. It will help considerably if you know fabrics and what style you want (bring along a sample or at least a picture), and can spare the time for at least three sessions for a suit (measurement, fitting and final adjustment). Tailors can be found all over town, but Sukhumvit Road has the heaviest concentration.
- Electronics: Pantip Plaza (off Sukhumvit) and Fortune Center (Ratchadaphisek) are the places to go for branded laptops to cheap VOIP phones and pirated DVDs. A must for any computer & electronics buff. See also: Electronics and entertainment shopping in Thailand. Be warned though, electronics are NOT necessarily cheaper in Thailand then they are back home. Also always get international warranty as you would want your electronics to be able to be fixed back home as well!
- Medicine: Bangkok's pharmacies (drugstores) tend to offer a very wide range of (wholly legal and legitimate) medicines and herbal remedies at a fraction of Western prices, including many drugs that would require a doctor's prescription in other countries. Thai pharmacists tend to be exceptionally helpful, and most speak excellent English. There are small, independent pharmacists on almost every corner, and you'll find bigger (and more expensive) chains on the major streets and in shopping centers. Boots is probably the most ubiquitous chain; they're also a reliable source for traveler's toiletries.
[edit] Where to buy
Shopping Areas and Markets
Shopping in Bangkok is not limited to one or two major streets. There are many areas throughout Bangkok affording ample choices and easy access. The following is just a selection of some of the principal shopping areas.
- Ploenchit-Ratchaprasong (เพลินจิต-ราชประสงค์)
Top department stores and luxury shopping malls are concentrated in the area, namely Central, Gaysorn Plaza, Isetan, Zen, Erawan Bangkok, Peninsula Plaza, all of which together make the largest shopping promenade in Bangkok. Furthermore, Central World Plaza and Narayana Phand Pavilion, host the official handicraft centre selling items from all parts of the country. Ratchaprasong intersection is the gateway to several shopping areas such as Phloenchit-Sukhumvit, Siam Square-Mahboonkrong, Silom and Pratunam-Phetchaburi.
- Silom-Surawong-Patpong (สีลม-สุรวงศ์-พัฒพงษ์)
Silom Road is the main artery of Bangkok’s commercial heart and is paralleled by Surawong Road, while Patpong Road runs crosswise between the two. In addition to housing dozens of specialist shops and boutiques representing all the major buys, this area also boasts many branches of well-known retailers , Tailors and several shopping plazas.Montien Plaza being the most famous and Excelsior tailors. Street stalls also abound, most notably at Patpong’s famous night market.
- Silom-Mahesak-Charoenkrung Road (สีลม-มเหศักดิ์-เจริญกรุง)
Silom leads into Charoen Krung Road which parallels the Chao Phraya River, and notable shopping opportunities include gems and jewellery stores (Mahesak Road is a gem trading centre), Oriental Plaza and River City shopping complex.
- Sukhumvit (สุขุมวิท)
Like Silom, Sukhumvit is one of Bangkok’s main thoroughfares, and the long road is lined with shops, boutiques and modern shopping plazas ranging from Soi 3 (Nana Nua) up to Soi 63 (Ekkamai). Most shops and restaurants are concentrated between Soi 3 and Soi 21 (Asok) and along shortcuts between Asok and Ekkamai. Sombat Permpoon Gallery at Sukhumvit Soi 1 sells both paintings and sculptures by established artists and those of the new generation.
- Pratunam-Phetchaburi (ประตูน้ำ-เพชรบุรี)
A highlight in the district is Pratunam market, one of Bangkok’s biggest centres for ready-to-wear clothing.
Baiyoke Tower (ตึกใบหยก) Located next to Bangkok’s tallest hotel building, Baiyoke tower is one of the city’s renowned garment centres.
- Nai Lert Plaza (ศูนย์การค้านายเลิศ)
Situated close to Pratunam Market, Nai Lert Market is one of many shopping areas in Bangkok where you can buy just about everything from clothing to handicrafts.
- Bang Lamphu (บางลำพู)
Situated close to the Grand Palace, Bang Lamphu has a lively market where clothing is a popular buy.
- Chinatown (ย่านเยาวราช)
In the center of Yaowarat Road and Sampheng Lane, Bangkok’s Chinatown offers a profusion of gold shops as well as several nearby traditional shopping places such as Ban Mo Jewellery Street, Phahurat Cloth Market and the Old Siam Plaza.
- Bo-be Market (ตลาดโบ๊เบ๊)
Situated close to Bangkok Railway Station, Bo-be is one of the city’s most renowned ready-to-wear clothing centres, both wholesale and retail.
- Jatujak or Chatuchak Weekend Market (ตลาดนัดจตุจักร)
Located adjacent to Chatuchak Park, the weekend market, open on Saturday and Sunday, is a Bangkok landmark where shoppers can buy just about everything from clothing to potted plants and everything in between - - a paradise for browsers and bargain-hunters alike. The market also offers items of furniture and home decor. It is also where professional and amateur art-lovers and artists meet.
- Pak Khlong Talat (ปากคลองตลาด)
This is a wholesale market for all kinds of cut flowers and vegetables. It is on Maharat Road near the Memorial Bridge. The market is crowded in the early morning and in the evening.
- Saphan Phut (สะพานพุทธ)
A night market beneath Phra Phuttayotfa Bridge, known locally as Saphan Phut, selling second-hand items such as clothes, shoes and many other items.
- Lang Krasuang (หลังกระทรวงกลาโหม)
The name literally means “behind the Ministry” and refers to an area behind the Ministry of Defence on Atsadang Road, which runs along Khlong Lot. On sale are military items such as uniforms, territorial defence student uniforms, shoes as well as travelling accessories like tents, sleeping bags and camping pots. There are shops selling musical instruments nearby.
- Khlong San Pier (ท่าเรือคลองสาน)
Located in a soi off Charoen Nakhon Road, the area offers items like ready-to-wear clothes for teenagers and shoes at relatively low prices.
- Woeng Nakhon Kasem (เวิ้งนาครเกษม)
A quarter of Thai and Chinese antiquities and art objects such as blue-and-white porcelain, brass ware and furniture decorated with mother-of-pearl inlay. It is located near Charoen Krung and Yaowarat Roads.
- Thewet (เทเวศร์)
This is a pot plants market along the bank of Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem off Samsen Road.
Handicrafted products are available at the Chitralada Shop, which offers items from the SUPPORT Foundation, or at Narayana Phand Pavilion on Ratchadamri Road, open daily during 10PM – 8PM Tel. 0 2252 4670-9 and 0 2255 4328-9.
- Taling Chan Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำตลิ่งชัน)
The floating market is in front of Taling Chan District Office and renders a blend of a rural market and canal side way of life. On weekends during 7PM-5PM, vendors who are in fact local farmers take their produce including plants, vegetables, fruits, fish and various kinds of food to this market for sale. The produce varies seasonally. There are also floating food shops and a private-run canal tour service for visitors to enjoy the district’s canal side way of life as well as farming. Open: Sat-Sun Admission: free Tel: For more details, please contact Khun Noppadol, Head of the Floating Markets Community at Tel. 08 1374 7616 or Taling Chan District Office, Tel. 0 2424 1742 and 0 2424 5448.
- Wat Sai Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำวัดไทร)
Situated in Chom Thong district on the Thonburi side of Bangkok, this floating market used to be a popular touristic site for visitors to admire a canal side way of life. Construction of new roads within the area left the floating market abandoned before it was recently revived to resume its charm. A canal tour along this historic waterway to enjoy the floating market crowded with boats of farm produce for sale as well as life along the banks of Khlong Sanam Chai, especially on weekends, is available. Stop to visit Tamnak Thong and the old Ho Klong - a drum tower - of Ayutthayan architecture at Wat Sai, a Chinese style royal residence of King Rama III and Chinese sculpture at Wat Ratcha-orot, pay respect to the bejewelled Buddha image and appreciate mural paintings depicting the Chinese tale of Sam Kok or ‘The Romance of the Three Kingdoms’ at Wat Nang Nong, pay respect to Luangpu Thao at Wat Nang and view a snake-catching show at a snake farm on the bank of Khlong Dan.
To get there, drive along Ekachai Road that runs by Wat Sai or take bus No. 43 or 120 from Wongwian Yai. A boat for rent is also available from Tha Chang or Chang Pier along the Chao Phraya River and into canals to Wat Sai. Open: Daily Admission: Free
- Damnoen Saduak Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำดำเนินสะดวก)
This popular attraction is some 80km west of Bangkok, accessible by regular bus from the Southern Bus Terminal. Everyday, hundreds of vendor boats crowd the market area in the early morning till noon.
[edit][add listing] Eat
Bangkok not only has plenty of Thai restaurants, but a wide-selection of world-class international cuisine too. Prices are generally high by Thai standards, but cheap by international standards; a good meal is unlikely to cost more than 300 baht, although there are a few restaurants (primarily in hotels) where you can easily spend 10 times this. Of course, for those on a budget street stalls abound with noodle & meals at around 30 baht. Try:
- Phad Thai and curry at shops everywhere.
- Tom Yum Goong, you must try one of Thailand's most famous soupS.
- Street vendors selling satay with hot sauce (for 5-10 baht a piece).
- Finding a kanom roti street vendor is a must if you like sweets. The crepe-like dessert is filled with sweetened condensed milk, lots of sugar, and can also have bananas inside. Also fascinating to watch them being made.
- Bugs - yes, insects. They are deep fried, nutritious and quite tasty with the soy sauce that is sprayed on them. Types available: scorpions, water beetles, grasshoppers, crickets, bamboo larvae, mealworms, and some more seasonal specialties. Note: break off the legs from grasshoppers and crickets or they will get stuck in your throat.
- Chinatown has a range of street stalls and cheap restaurants selling food (try 1kg of huge barbecued prawns or tom yam with prawns for 300 baht) to the discerning local population.
- All the Thai restaurant chains covered in the main Thailand article.
- Restaurants featuring cuisine from all over the world on Sukhumvit Road and Khao San Road.
Vegetarian/Vegan In the more tourist-friendly parts of town (MBK, Khao San Road, Siam Paragon, Siam Square etc.), there are a few vegetarian restaurants or food court stalls, and vegetarian options are readily available on menus and in shops. Typical street restaurants will also easily cook a vegetarian equivalent of popular Thai dishes for you. Ask for "jay" food to leave the meat out of the dish. For example, "khao pad" is fried rice and "khao pad jay" is vegetarian fried rice. For vegans, the most common animal product used would be oyster sauce, and to avoid it, say "Mai Ou Naam Mon Hoi". Be aware that all street noodle vendors use animal broth for the noodle soup.
[edit] Dinner cruises
Dinner cruises on the Chao Phraya River are a touristy but fun way of spotting floodlit temples while chowing down on seafood and watching Thai cultural performances. Most operate buffet style and the quality of the food is so-so, but there's lots of it and it's not too spicy. Note that drinks and tips are usually not included in the listed prices below. There are many competing operators, but most cruises depart from the River City Pier, next to pier N3 Si Phaya of the River Express. Major ones include:
- Chao Pharya Princess, +66-28603700 [55]. Large operator with four modern air-conditioned boats seating up to 250 people. From 1300 baht, departure from River City.
- Loy Nava, +66-24374932, [56]. 70-seater rice barges. From 1400 baht, departure from Si Phaya Pier (near Sheraton), free pickup from most hotels.
- Maeyanang, +66-26599000, [57]. Catered and operated by the Oriental Hotel, the Maeyanang is a custom-built ornately carved teakwood boat seating only 32 people, small enough to venture off the river down the subsidiary klongs. From 2000 baht, departure from Oriental pier.
- Manohra, +66-24760021, [58]. Restored Thai rice barges seating 40 people. From 1350 baht. Departure from Marriott Resort, pick-up from BTS Saphan Taksin available.
- Wan Fah, +66-2222-8679, [59]. 2-hour dinner cruises including a set meal of farang-friendly Thai food and seafood, live music and Thai classical dancing. Departs at 7 PM from River City, from 1000 baht.
- Yok Yor Marina, +66-28630565, [60]. Operated by the famous seafood restaurant, this is a much more local (and cheaper) option than the tourist cruises: pay a 160 baht "boat fee" and then order off the menu at normal restaurant prices. Departure at 8 PM from Yok Yor Marina on the Thonburi side of the river, free shuttle service from BTS Saphan Taksin.
[edit][add listing] Drink
Bangkok's nightlife is infamously wild, but it's not quite what it used to be: due to recent social order campaigns, there have been quite a lot of crack-downs on opening hours, nudity, drug use etc. Nearly all restaurants, bars and clubs are now forced to close before 1 AM, although a few are allowed to stay open till 2 AM. (Informal sidewalk bars do stay open all night, particularly in lower Sukhumvit.) You must carry your passport for ID checks and police occasionally raid bars and discos, subjecting all customers to drug tests, though these mostly occur at places that cater for hi-society Thais.
One of Bangkok's main party districts is Silom, home not only to perhaps the world's most famous go-go bar strip Patpong, but plenty of more legitimate establishments catering to all tastes. For a drink with a view, the open-air rooftop bar/restaurants of Vertigo and Sirocco are particularly impressive. Similar bars to the ones at Patpong can be found in the lower Sukhumvit area, at Nana Entertainment Plaza (soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (soi 23), while a large number of more trendy and more expensive bars and nightclubs can be found in the higher sois as well, eg. Thong Lor (soi 55), Bed Supperclub, Q Bar, or Met bar. Hippie hangout Khao San Road is also slowly gentrifying and a score of young trendy Thai teenagers have also made their mark there. Most of the younger Thais though, still prefer to congregate around Ratchadaphisek.
Smoking is forbidden in all restaurants, bars and nightclubs, whether air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned.
Elephant Begging: A depressingly common sight on the congested streets of Bangkok during night hours is the lumbering elephant and its mahout (trainer), touting tourists out drinking to feed the creatures bananas or take a photo with them for a fee. The elephants are brought to the city to beg in this way because they are out of work, and are mistreated and visibly distressed under the conditions of the city. Please avoid supporting this cruelty by rejecting the mahouts as they offer you bananas to feed the elephants. This is especially common in Silom and Sukhumvit.
[edit] Go-go and beer bars
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Behaving while misbehavin' Some simple rules of etiquette to follow in a go-go bar:
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The go-go bar is an institution of Bangkok's "naughty nightlife". In a typical go-go, several dozen dancers in bikinis (or less) crowd the stage, shuffling back and forth to loud music and trying to catch the eye of punters in the audience. Some (but not all) also put on shows where girls perform on stage, but these are generally tamer than you'd expect — nudity, for example, is technically forbidden. In a beer bar, there are no stages and the girls are wearing street clothes.
If this sounds like a thinly veiled veneer for prostitution, it is. Though some point to the large number of American GIs during the Vietnam War as the point of origin of the Thai sex trade, others have claimed that current Thai attitudes towards sexuality have deeper roots in Thai history. Both go-go and beer bars are squarely aimed at the foreign tourists and it's fairly safe to assume that most if not all Thais in them are on the take. That said, it's perfectly OK to check out these shows without actually partaking, and there are more and more curious couples and even the occasional tour group attending. The main areas are around Patpong, Nana Entertainment Plaza and Soi Cowboy.
See also the Stay safe|Prostitution section.
[edit] Gay nightlife
Thais are generally accepting of homosexuality and Bangkok has a very active gay nightlife scene, concentrated in Silom Sois 2 & 4 and a short strip of gay go-gos bars off nearby Th Surawong. Most of these bars, however, are aimed at gay men and the lesbian scene is much more low-key. The most popular gay bars are Balcony and Telephone bar at Silom soi 4, and for the disco crowd DJ Station and its late-night neighbour G.O.D., which are located at Silom soi 2 (packed every night beginning around 11PM). Bangkok's two two full-time lesbian bars are Zeta and Shela, with Lesla also open on Saturday nights only. Bring along your passport for entrance age checking (they do not allow people under 20 years old). Closing time is 2-3PM
In a league of their own are Bangkok's numerous transsexuals (kathoey), both pre- and post-operative, popularly known as ladyboys. Some work in the famed transvestite cabarets and there are some dedicated kathoey bars as well, but most do their best to blend in and many have the art of deception down pat. Telltale signs to look out for include tall height, large hands and an Adam's apple.
Note that some Thai regulars in the gay nightlife scene skirt the fine line between partying and prostitution, and the Western visitor, being considered richer, is expected to pay any food and drink expenses and perhaps provide some "taxi money" in the morning. It's usually wise to ask a boy you pick up in a bar or club if he is after money, as it's not uncommon for them to start demanding money after sex.
[edit][add listing] Sleep
- Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles
Bangkok has a vast range of accommodation, including some of the best hotels in the world — and some of the worst dives too. Broadly speaking, Khao San Road is backpacker city; the riverside by Silom and Thonburi is home to The Oriental and The Peninsula respectively, often ranked among the best in the world (and priced to match); and Sukhumvit Road has hotels (and hostels) for all budgets. When choosing your digs, pay careful attention to Skytrain and Metro access; a well-placed station will make your stay in Bangkok much more comfortable.
Boutique hotels have mushroomed in Bangkok during the past few years, they usually provide less number of rooms (usually 10 or less) and a more personalized service. With most types of accommodations, a majority of boutique hotels can be found in the Old Bangkok (Rattanakosin Island) and Sukhumvit Road area like the ""Tenface Bangkok"" [61]
One Bangkok hotel phenomenon of note is the guest fee of around 500 baht added to your bill if you bring along a newly found friend for the night, (very few if any hotels, even five-stars, will actually refuse guests). This is obviously aimed at controlling local sex workers, which is why hotel security will usually also hold onto your guest ID card for the duration of the visit, but some hotels will also apply it to Western visitors — or, more embarrassingly, try to apply it to your Thai partner.
[edit] Contact
Internet cafes abound in Bangkok, see the district pages for listings. You'll generally be looking at rates of around 0,5-1 baht/minute (30-60 baht/hour) in the tourist-laden districts like Khao San road, 20-30 baht/hour in the city center (the top floors of MBK, for example), and 10-15 baht/hour if you would venture into residential areas (the speed is generally still high). An increasing number of cafes and pubs, including the ubiquitous Coffee World [62] chain, offer free Wifi to their customers. TrueMove offers both free (registration required, both session and overall time is limited) and paid Wi-fi access, their network [63] is accessible in many malls, etc., and occasionally can be available even in you room from a nearby hot-spot - just look for 'truewifi' network, you can register right there. Some guesthouses now also provide complimentary Wi-fi access in the rooms - just ask, you'll encourage those who do not have to provide it also.
For the best options of calling abroad, as well as accessing Internet via GPRS/EDGE, see general Thailand article.
[edit] Stay safe
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Useful number
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Given its size and poverty level Bangkok is surprisingly safe, with violent crimes like mugging and robbery unusual. However, Bangkok does have more than its fair share of touting and scams, and quite a few individuals in the tourist business think nothing of overcharging visitors.
As a rule of thumb, it is wise to decline all offers made by someone who appears to be a friendly local giving a hapless tourist some local advice. Most Bangkok locals do not approach foreigners without an ulterior motive.
In 2008, political unrest hit the headlines, with the yellow-shirted People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD) closing down both of Bangkok's airports for a week and several people killed in political violence. After the new prime minister has been elected, things are more or less back to normal, but the situation remains unstable.
[edit] Scams
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What to do if you fall for the gem scam As long as you're still in Thailand, it's not too late. Contact the Tourist Authority of Thailand (02-6941222) or the Tourist Police (1155) immediately, file a police report, and return to the store to claim a refund — they must, by law, return 80%. If your gems have been mailed, contact the Bangkok Mail Center at 02-2150966 ext. 195 immediately and ask them to track your package: they'll find it if you act fast, and know the name, address and date it was mailed. |
Beware of tuk-tuk drivers offering all-day tours for prices as low as 10 baht. You may indeed be taken on a full-day tour, but you will only end up visiting one gem and souvenir shop after another. The driver gets a commission if you buy something and gas coupons even if you don't.
- Insist on the meter for taxis, and agree on a price in advance for tuk-tuks. If they refuse, or quote silly prices, just walk out and get a different one, they're rarely in short supply.
- Be highly skeptical of anyone telling you that your intended destination is currently closed (including skytrain and metro stations), or offering discount admissions. Temples are almost always free (the main exceptions are Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho) and open just about every day of the year. Anyone telling you otherwise, even if they have an official-looking identification card, is most likely out to scam you, especially if they suggest some alternate sights to see until the sight reopens. At paid admission sites, verify the operating hours at the ticket window.
- Also be wary of taxi drivers informing you that the destination is closed or there is a huge traffic jam as more often then not, he is not telling the truth. Another scam by taxi drivers is similar to the situation above, except they drop you off at a certain place where a man who claims to be an official, states that tickets are a certain direction and infact there is another "official" that claims that the attraction is closed and then just follow the above pointer.
- There is no such thing as a Lucky Buddha or Lucky Buddha day! Touts are out to trick you into getting a tuk-tuk to visit several souvenir shops or a gem scam shop.
- At popular tourist sites, if an English-speaking Thai approaches you out of the blue and strikes up a conversation, be wary, they are almost certainly selling something. If they ask you if it's your first time in Thailand, it's probably best to answer 'no' and walk away.
- In the go-go bar zones, beware of touts who try to drag you into the upstairs bars with offers of ping-pong shows and 100-baht beer. The beer may well be 100 baht, but the "show" you'll be treated to will be 1000 baht or more. Rule of thumb is, if you can't see inside from street level, the establishment is best avoided.
- Beware of private bus companies offering direct trips from Bangkok to other cities with VIP buses. There are a lot of scams performed by some private bus companies. The so-called direct VIP trips may end up changing three or four uncomfortable minibuses to the destination, the 10-11 hours trip may be 17-18 hours. Try to book public BKS buses from the main bus terminals.
- Beware of tuk-tuk or taxi drivers who approach you speaking good English or with an "I <3 farang" sign, especially those who mention or take you to a tailor shop (or any kind of business). They are paid by inferior tailor shops to bring tourists there to be subjected to high pressure sales techniques. If at any point your transportation brings you somewhere you didn't intend or plan to go, walk away immediately, ignore any entreaties to the contrary, and find another taxi or tuk-tuk.
[edit] Fights
DO NOT GET INTO FIGHTS WITH THE LOCALS. Thais are peace loving people but when it's a Thai versus a foreigner, it is never a fair fight. You'll wind up having to fight 10 to 20 others who were not initially involved, or the police will be called and will not do anything to assist you (especially the Metropolitan Police, as opposed to the Tourist Police, as they normally have very limited English skills). Thais are also notorious for fighting with weaponry (knives, broken bottles, metal rods), or employing Muay Thai techniques. These are usually produced from their concealed locations, with foreigners getting seriously injured or worse. Avoid all confrontations.
[edit] Prostitution
The age of consent is 15 but a higher minimum age of 18 applies in the case of prostitutes. Penalties for sex with minors are harsh.
All adult Thais must carry an identity card, which will state that they were born in 2533 or earlier if they were over the age of 18 on January 1st 2009 (in the Thai calendar, CE 2009 is the year 2552). Many hotels retain the ID cards of prostitutes for the duration of their visit.
Whilst most prostitutes are employed by bars or similar businesses, some are "freelancers". Petty theft and other problems are more common with "freelancers".
HIV/AIDS awareness is better than it used to be but infection statistics among entertainment industry workers remain high; "freelancers" are the highest risk group. Almost all girls insist on using condoms.
Technically, some aspects of prostitution are illegal (eg. soliciting, pimping), however enforcement is liberal and brothels are commonplace. It's not illegal to pay for sex or to pay a "barfine" (a fee the bar collects if you want to take an employee away).
The novel The Butterfly Trap (ISBN 1904502377) gives a realistic first-person account of Bangkok's nightlife industry.
[edit] Water
Tap water in Bangkok is said to be safe when it comes out the plant, but unfortunately the plumbing along the way often is not, so it's wise to avoid drinking the stuff, even in hotels. Any water served to you in good restaurants etc will at least be boiled, but it's better to order sealed bottles instead, which are available everywhere at low prices.
Take care with ice, which may be made with tap water of questionable potability. Some residents claim that ice with round holes is made by commercial ice makers who purify their water; others state that it is wise not to rely on that claim.
[edit] Food
As elsewhere in Thailand, be careful with what you eat. Outside of major tourist hotels and resorts, stay away from raw leafy vegetables, egg-based dressings like mayonnaise, unpackaged ice cream and minced meat. In short, stick to boiled, baked, fried, or peeled goods.
[edit] Cope
[edit] Hospitals
Bangkok's hospitals offer generally high quality services at a fraction of the cost of a Western hospital. Probably the best-regarded (and most expensive) is Bumrungrad [64], which (for example) charges 60,000 baht for an all-inclusive breast implant package. Bangkok is also well known as a center for sexual reassignment surgery for people wishing to change their physical sex, although this falls out of the scope of a casual vacation.
- Bangkok Hospital, 2 Soi Soonvijai 7 New Petchburi Road (Central Bangkok) [65] tel. +66-23103000.
- Bumrungrad Hospital, 33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) Wattana (Central Bangkok) [66] tel. +66-26671000.
- Flying Air Ambulance, Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana 8) (Central Bangkok) tel. +91 9821150889.
- Phyathai 2 Hospital, 943 Phaholyothin ROad, Samsennai, Phyathai, Bangkok 10400 Thailand. (www.phyathai.com)
- Siriraj Hospital.
- Thonburi Hospital.
[edit] Dentists
A listing of the main dental clinics in Bangkok that have English-speaking dentists and staff:
- Smile Studio Bangkok (dental cosmetic and dental implant center) in Silom location, 3 min walking from skytrain and subway station. [www.1tosmile.com] TEL: +66 2235 7707 - 9. Mail: dentist@1tosmile.com Get 5-10 % with your online reservation, by December 30, 2009
- Bangkok International Dental Center (BIDC), ISO 9001:2000 certified 157 Ratchadapesik Rd (Central Bangkok) [67] tel. +66-26924433 [68].
[edit] Embassies
- Australian Embassy, Bangkok [71], 37 South Sathorn Road, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-344-6300.
- Cambodian Embassy, Bangkok [72], No. 185 Rajddamri Rd, Lumpini, Patumwan, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-254-6630. E-mail: RECBKK@hotmail.com
- Canadian Embassy, Bangkok [73], 15th Floor, Abdulrahim Place, 990 Rama 4 Rd Bangrak, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-636-0540. E-mail: bngkk@international.gc.ca
- China PR Embassy, Bangkok, 57 Ratchadapisek Rd, Dindang, Bangkok. Tel: +66-2-245-7030-45, or (+66) 2-247-2122-3. Fax: (+66) 2-246-8247, or (+66) 2-247-2214, or (+66) 2-248-8085.
- Ireland Consulate, Bangkok, 11th Flr, United Flour Mill Bldg, 205 Rajawong Rd. Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-223-0876, or (+66) 2-226-0680. Fax: (+66) 2-224-5551.
- Israel Embassy, Bangkok, 25th Flr, Ocean Tower, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 19, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-260-4854-9.
- Kuwait Embassy, Bangkok [74], 92/48 Sathorn Thani Building ll, 17th Floor, North Sathorn Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 2354222-3, 2342948 Fax: 2376779.
- Laos PDR Embassy, Bangkok [75], 502/502/1-3 Soi Sahakarnpramoon, Pracha Uthit Road, Wangthonglang, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-539-6667. Fax: (+66) 2-539-6668. E-mail: sabaidee@bkklaoembassy.com
- Malaysia Embassy, Bangkok, 35 South Sathorn Rd, Yannawa, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-286-1390, or (+66) 2-287-3979-80. Fax: (+66) 2-213-2126.
- Myanmar Embassy, Bangkok, 132 North Sathorn Rd, Bangrak, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-236-6899, or (+66) 2-234-4789, or (+66) 2-233-2237. Fax: (+66) 2-236-6898.
- Office of the Military, Naval and Air Attache (Myanmar) , 116 North Sothorn Rd, Bangrak, Bangkok.
- The Netherlands, Bangkok, 15 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok. Tel: +66 (0)2 3095200. Fax: (+66 (0)2 3095205. EMERGENCY TEL.: +66 (0)81 9201329.
- New Zealand Embassy, Bangkok, 93 Wireless Rd, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-254-3856, or (+66) 2-253-5363, or (+66) 2-253-0429. Fax: (+66) 2-254-9488, (+66) 2-253-9045.
- Russian Embassy, Bangkok [76] 78 Sap Road, Surawongse, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500. Tel: (+66) 2-234-9824, 2-268-1169. Fax: (+66) 2-237-8488 E-Mail: rusembbangkok@rambler.ru
- Singapore Embassy, Bangkok, 129 South Sathorn Rd, Yannawa, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-286-2111, or (+66) 2-213-1261, or (+66) 2-287-5115. Fax: (+66) 2-287-2578.
- U.K. Embassy, Bangkok [77], 1031 Wireless Rd, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-305-8333. E-mail: Info.Bangkok@fco.gov.uk
- U.S. Embassy, Bangkok [78], 95 Wireless Rd, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-205-4049. E-mail: acsbkk@state.gov
- Vietnamese Embassy, Bangkok [79], 83/1 Wireless Rd, Pathumwan, Bangkok. Tel: (+66) 2-251-7202, or (+66) 2-251-5835. Fax: (+66) 2-251-7201, or (+66) 2-251-7203. E-mail: vnembassy@bkk.a-net.net.th
- India Embassy, Bangkok [80] 46 Prasarnmitr, Sukhumvit Soi 23, Bangkok – 10110. Tel-(662) 2580300-5. Fax-(662) 2584627, 2621740 E-Mail- indiaemb@mozart.inet.co.th
[edit] Get out
If you want to get out of the city for a while, there are plenty of day trip options from Bangkok.
[edit] Bangkok Metropolitan Area
- Ko Kret - island in Nonthaburi Province, upriver from Bangkok, makes a pleasant day trip out of the concrete jungle.
- Pathum Thani - Dream World amusement park.
- Samut Prakan - The Ancient City open air museum and a crocodile farm.
- Samut Songhkram Province - The authentic Amphawa Floating Market and more.
[edit] Further destinations
- Ayutthaya - Ancient capital showcasing its many ruins, 1.5 hours away by bus or train.
- Hua Hin - Beach resort town popular with Thais and Scandinavians, 3 hours by taxi or 45 minutes by airplane
- Bang Pa-In - Magnificent Royal Palace makes for a pleasant day trip.
- Kanchanaburi Province - Some good national parks and the infamous Burma Death Railway.
- Ko Samet - The closest Thai beach island; direct bus (from Ekamai) + ferry (from Ban Phe) takes about 4 hours.
- Ko Chang - Relatively unspoiled tropical island; direct bus (from Ekamai or Mor Chit) + ferry (from Laem Ngop) takes about 5 hours.
- Pattaya - Seaside resort and naughty nightlife 2-2.5 hours away by bus, an hour or so more by train.
- Khao Yai National Park - Stunning mountainous scenery and some of Thailand's fledgling vineyards. 3.5 hours away by bus.
| Routes through Bangkok |
| END ← | W  E
| → Si Racha → Aranyaprathet |
| Nakhon Ratchasima ← Ayutthaya ← | N  S
| → END |
| Chiang Mai ← Ayutthaya ← | N  S
| → END |
| END ← | N  S
| → Nakhon Pathom → Hat Yai |
| This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow! |
