Around 150,000 people were killed in Banda Aceh in the Tsunami of 26 December 2004. Some parts of the city became permanently submerged. Many aid agencies have been present since then to help rebuild.
A view of the city of Banda Aceh from a helicopter, showing the results of the Tsunami and the rebuilding effort.
The long conflict between the Acehenese independence movement (GAM) and the Indonesian army (TNI) has been solved for the time being by the peace agreement on 15 August 2005. The peace process has been quite smooth since. On 11 December 2006 the province held its first direct and democratic local elections. On 8 February 2007 the first democratically elected governor, Irwandi Yusuf, was inaugurated.
Foreigners no longer require a travel permit (Surat Jalan) to enter Aceh, but an Indonesian visa is required. Since 6 June 2010, it is possible to get a 30 day Visa-on-Arrival at Banda Aceh Airport. The Embassy in KL can sometimes process the visa in the same day if you complete all the paperwork before noon, though officially this only applies to Malaysian residents( 60 day visa is no longer available at KL, so visa on arrival is the best bet, although you can still get a 60 day visa in 2 days in Penang(Jul '15)).
There are non-stop night buses, with travel times ranging from 9-13 hours - from Medan to Banda Aceh. Major bus companies such as PMTOH, Pelangi, Kurnia and Pusaka have offices on Jl. Gajah Mada, Medan. Price ranges from Rp 110,000 in a regular-sized-seat bus to Rp 200,000 in a wide-seat bus.
Mini-buses can also take you to Banda Aceh from the Medan area, but journeys are generally longer. Prices are a bit cheaper than the coaches. It is also possible to travel over from Medan to Banda Aceh via Kutacane and Takengon. This will be 20 hr in total.
Firefly, Penang,  , Malaysia's community airline now flies from Penang to Banda Aceh every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday
Garuda Indonesia, Jakarta-Soekarno-Hatta, Medan, 3 daily flights from Jakarta and two daily flights from Medan. The Jakarta-Banda Aceh direct flight on Garuda takes 2 hr 40 mins on a Boeing 737, although it is often changed to stopover at Medan without warning. Seasonal to Jeddah in Saudi Arabia during the Hajj season
Lion Air, Jakarta-Soekarno-Hatta, Medan. They have two daily flights from Jakarta and one from Medan.
SMAC, Blang Pidie, Meulaboh, Simelue, Takengon, Tapaktuan. Flies daily from Medan to Nias Island and Simeulue Island.
A bus provides a service from Banda Aсeh to the airport, and from the airport to Banda Aceh.
Operating hours are 10/11AM-2:30PM, price to the city is Rp 15,000/person.
The bus departing from the airport to Banda Aсeh leaves a few minutes after airplanes land. So departure time depends on landing time, more or less. Thus, it's advised to hurry to catch the bus. It is on your left when you leave the airport building (taxi drivers will tell you there is no airport bus, just keep on walking because the bus is there).
Please note that this bus goes to Banda Aceh City Centre; it does not go to the Bus Station or Ulee-Lhue Harbour. If you want to go to the Bus Station or Ulee-Lhue Harbour, take a becak after being dropped off in the City Centre by the airport bus.
The closest big (international) ferry terminal is Belawan Port, close to Medan. It receives vessels originating from Batam, Indonesia (a common route when coming from Singapore). The ferry from Penang is no longer operating. From Ulhee-lhee, the port of Banda Aceh you can go to Pulau Weh and to Pulau Aceh.
The main methods of getting around are becak (motorbike taxis) and labi-labi (public minibus). Due to the sudden influx of money post-tsunami, locals have gotten used to overcharging, but now stabilisation has returned. Example becak fares are: Airport - Grand Mosque: Rp 40,000; Bus Terminal - Grand Mosque: Rp 8,000; Grand Mosque - Penayong: Rp 5,000. Inside the city, generally Rp 10,000 should do it. Car rental/taxi from airport to Penayong Rp 100.000/car, airport to ulee lheue port Rp 140.000/car, and one day car rental for banda Aceh city tour start from Rp 400.000/car (using Avanza, include driver & fuel, cost update 15 April 2015)
One knowledgeable friendly becak driver is Little John, who speaks English and Japanese. He also has the only actual wifi becak in town! Find him on Facebook (Little John Banda Aceh) or phone +62813 6023 1339.
Masjid Raya Baiturrahman/Grand Mosque, (Muslim dresscode). Baiturrahman is a great mosque located at the heart of Banda Aceh, The mosque has five black coloured domes and four white minarets. The mosque stands upon an elegantly green landscape. The white washed walls and minerals and charcoal blacks domes of the Grand Mosque are the most famous landmark in Aceh. The Mosque was built in 12 Century and caught fire several time including during a Dutch attack upon Kutaraja (Banda Aceh) in 1873. A replacement mosque was built by the Dutch military government and was completed in 1883. The Mosque is extraordinary in architecture and ornamentation. It has five onion shaped domes, two tall minarets, wide white walls and decoratively ornamented pillars.edit
Cut Nya Dien House. Cut Nya Dien was an Indonesian woman revolutionist from Aceh. The house is a replica of the heroine Cut Nyak Dhien House, from the Aceh War. The colonial forces burned down the house but a replica was built later. This house in Lam Pisang, about 6 km from Banda Aceh and is now is a museum. The house is in Lampisang Village, Lhok Nga subdistrict, Greater Aceh district. Although Lhok Nga was the area worst hit by tsunami, the Tjut Nyak Dhien House survived. The daughter of a chieftain, Tjut Nyak Dhien joined the fight against the Dutch invaders in 1875. Her first husband fell in battle, and she remarried. When her second husband also died fighting, she continued the struggle with her children. After six years in the jungle, she was captured by the Dutch and exiled to West Java where she passed away in 1906. Tjut Nyak Dhien is recognised as one of the National Warriors of Indonesia.edit
Gunongan and Taman Putroe Phang. Gunongan had erected by Sultan Iskandar Muda (1607 - 1636) as a private playground and bathing place for this wife Putro Phang (From Malaysia). This whimsical architectural fantasy had access to the sultan's palace through the traditional 'Pintu Aceh', used by royalty only. This building likely functioned as an important recreational peace located in the Taman Sari Park for the Queen and other royal family members to climb. It is quite enjoyable to visit this place during the late afternoon or sunset.edit
Graveyard in Bitay Village. In Bitay the grave of a saint, Teungku di Bitay, may still be seen. The tomb of Tuan di Bitay, who taught the Achehenese among other things the art of casting cannon, and the mosque which stands beside the grave are revered as sacred up to the present day. * Aceh and Turkey had a close relationship in times past. Many technicians and weapons from the Turkish fleet came and settled in Aceh. Historical remains of this time include a mosque and a monument and headstone Turkish people in the village Bitai (~ 3 km from Banda Aceh).edit
The Museum Aceh. The museum is situated in Sultan Alaidin Mahmud Syah St. The museum exhibits ceramics, weapons and many cultural artifacts such as clothing, jewellery, calligraphy, Islamic ornamenation, kitchen equipment and many other items. A most interesting item is a big bell called “Lonceng Cakra Donya”, a gift from China Grand-Duke (Ming Emperor, in the 15th century) for Sultan Aceh that was delivered by a Chinese Moslem, Admiral Cheng Ho in 1414, an inscription on the bell reads; “Sing Fang Niat Toeng Juut Kat”. In this complex there is also ‘Rumah Aceh’ house that was built by Dutch Governor Van Swart in 1941 in a style typical of classic Aceh’s house architecture. In the western of Museum or northern of Aceh House of Custom there is graveyard complex holding the remains of Aceh Sultans.edit
Indonesian Airline Monument (Seulawah-Indonesian First Airplane). The Monument was erected to commemorate the heroic contribution of the Acehenese to the emergence of the Republic of Indonesia. When Indonesia became independent in 1945 the Dutch intended to reoccupy the country. In the ensuing struggle in 1949 much area had fallen to the Dutch, the Republic of Indonesia was badly in need of an airplane to avoid the blockade of the enemy. Soekarno, Indonesian president at that time, urgently asked the Acehenese to donate money for an airplane. A Douglas DC-3 was purchased shortly afterwards, and paid for with the donation. This very early plane was the precursor of Garuda Indonesia fleet.edit
Kerkhof (Dutch military graveyards of Banda Aceh), Teuku Umar St (the entrance gate is in front of the south eastern corner of Blang Padang). Kerkhoff or War Memorial Cemetery or known by local peoples as Peucut Kerkhoff, 2,000 Dutch soldiers who died in an Aceh War were buried in this graveyards. On the walls of the Kerkhoff entrance gate you may see the names list of the persons buried including details of where and when they died.edit
Ulee Lheue-Banda Aceh (Tsunami Ground Zero). Ulee Lheue is a shore line facing the Malacca straits; when the tsunami hit Banda Aceh on 26 December, 2004, the beach line and the village nearby were severely damaged and submerged by a 10 m high wave. Now the local government has built a new seaport at Ulee Lheue, and if you have plans to visit Sabang and Weh island, you can take a Ro-Ro ferry or speed boat from Ulee Lheue. Ulee Lheue beach has still kept its enchanting beauty, and almost every day people come to this place to enjoy the blue horizon of sky and sea, to see a beautiful sunset in the evening, or to enjoy the beach at night on the weekend.edit
Aceh Culture & Tourism Agency, Jl. Tgk. Chik Kuta Karang No. 3 (There are two eateries in number 3-5. The tourism agency is inside the government building right across the street of these eateries.), . Very friendly and helpful staff. They provide (free): a map of Banda Aceh and the region around Banda Aceh, a map of the Aceh-province, a very nice Aceh Guide Book (color print). These items are put in a small, really beautiful, shopping bag with pictures of Aceh on it.edit
Mountain Biking Cycling Hiking, Jl Al Huda Blok B, No 2 (close to food court), . Cycle around the mountains, rice fields and beaches near Banda Aceh. Hike and Bike tours and mountain bikes availablefrom Rp 50,000. edit
Banda Aceh city highlights tour on a Bicycle., Jln Al Huda Blok B, No 2 (close to food court), . A bike is a great way to explore both the long history of Banda Aceh as well as the impact of the 2004 Tsunami. Bicycles, maps and route descriptions are available at Aceh Adventure.edit
Tour around on a Motorbike (A motorbike is an easy and adventurous way of exploring Aceh), Jl Mesjid Al Huda Blok B No 2 (close to food court), ☎ +62 813 99578873, . 24 hr. After the tsunami international donors and the Indonesian Government build plenty of excellent roads. The road along the west coast is of great beauty. Expect green hills and mountains and behind every corner an even more beautiful beach.Rp 100,000. edit
Island dropping, Jl Mesjid Al Huda Blok B no 2, ☎ +62 813 99578873, . open 9AM-5PM. The uninhabited island of Pulau Kreusik has a splendid, mosquito free white beach and is located about 1 hour from Banda Aceh. The island has safe swimming. You can either make a day trip to the island or stay overnight.around Rp 800,000 pp. edit
Discover Aceh Divers Club, Jl Utama No. 1 Lamjamee, ☎ +62 812 6970 1430. There are some nice diving spots around Banda Aceh such as Pulau Tuan, Pulau Bunta and Lhok Mata Ie with underwater fish and corals. If you are lucky you will see Manta rays. The price includes the boat from Banda Aceh. Certified divemasters will accompany you when diving.€25 per pax per dive, minimum 4 pax. edit
Remains of Koetaradja Audiotour, Koetaradja, Banda Aceh, . If you have some extra time to spend in Banda Aceh and want to see more than just the tsunami sights, do check out this audioguide, which is available as a free download for Android. Created by a Dutch historian and narrated in English, Indonesian and Dutch, it provides a fascinating insight into the terrible colonial history of the city. The tour is a true labour of love; maps, old photos and very nice music are provided in the app. If you don't have an Android phone yourself you can contact them on their website and they will lend you one. They can even arrange a becak for you. Well worth checking out.edit
There are approximately 65 NGOs currently operating in Banda Aceh; however, they generally do not recruit non-Indonesians locally. These NGOs include various UN and EU agencies, USNS, Care, Americare, Islamic Relief, International Federation Of Red Cross and Red Crescent, Australian Red Cross, Turkish Red Crescent, Kuwaiti Red Crescent, French Red Cross, IMC, IOM, WHO, Japan International Cooperation System, Habitat, Medecins sans frontières, Japan Platform, USAID. At the peak of the post-Tsunami aid effort there were 850 NGOs, but many of these were non-Muslim religious organisations and their permits were not extended by the Indonesian government.
There are interesting fish, meat and vegetable markets in the centre of town. There are also some small souvenir shops selling various local items. Check out Kue Kacang Sabang - it is a sweet dessert (kue) made from green beans (Kacang Hijau).
The Acehenese breakfast staple is nasi gurih, rice cooked in coconut milk, sold in coffee shops everywhere. "Nasi Gurih" is similar to "Nasi Lemak", the breakfast food commonly eaten in Malaysia. Food stalls and Padang restaurants are open across the undamaged part of town, and fruit carts are ubiquitous.
Canai Mamak KL Restaurant, Jl Teuku Umar No 51, Seutui, . Malay Food, Halal Toyibah.
SHIDQI Cafe, Jl. Malikul Saleh, Lamlagang, (on the left side of the Red Crescent Hospital), . Naturalis Cafe.
La Piazza Italian Restaurant, Jl Bhakti no 33A-B, Kampung Laksana, ☎ +62 651 31035. Best restaurant in town, not just for its fresh seafood, pasta and pizza, but also its great roof top garden. Dishes work from an Italian template, but with the best ingredients Banda Aceh has to offer. Drinks menu available. Also open weekdays for lunch.
Tropicana Seafood Restaurant, Jl A Yani No 90-92, Peunayong. High quality Chinese restaurant. --> closed down
Imperial Kitchen, Jl Teuku Umar. High quality Chinese restaurant.
Country Steakhouse, Jl Sri Ratu Safiatuddin 46D. Steaks, hamburgers, salads; western style food.
Banda Seafood Restaurant, Jl Panglima Polem 125, (near the Kartika Hotel). Fine chicken, meat and vegetable dishes.
Big Top, (across the road from Warung Ibu Pocut). Chinese and Indonesian dishes.
Tower Coffee, (previously Putra Jaya), Jl Tgk Haji Abdullah Ujung Rimba No 14, (off Jl Muhammad near Masjid Baiturrahman). Panang style dining in nice A/C atmosphere with some English-speaking waiters.
Niagara Cafe, Jl Hasandek 8-9. Has every fruit juice imaginable and a satay stand outside.
Istana, Jl. T. Panglima Polem, No. 66-68, ☎ +62 651 31287. Two locations. Offers your typical Aceh fare in an A/C dining area. Careful ordering - they may serve and charge you two dishes.edit
Hermes Palace, (formerly Swiss-Belhotel), '. The restaurant here presumably offers the best hotel food in town and has nice dinner buffets as well as a la carte.
Sultan Hotel, has a popular cafe, while the chef at the hotel’s Koetaradja Restaurant boldly tries his hand at a Sultan Burger.
There are some nice coffee houses with soothing rice paddy views around Ulee Kareng, along Jl Tengku Iskander on the town’s western outskirts.
Three fast food chain restaurants may be found in the centre, A&W, KFC and Pizza Hut.
Wawan supriawan, Jl warga no 12. Banda seafood already moved to Banda Seafood Restaurant Jl Raya Kp Blang No 21 Ule Lheu Telp : 0651 7406085edit
Drinking alcohol is not allowed. Coffee-drinking is the main activity.
My Juice, Jl. Twk M. Daud Syan, No. 9-11, ☎ +62 65121613. On what you might call "Auto Blvd", this clean, friendly restaurant features some of the best juice combos around. Try the terung belanda fruit juice, which is only indigenous to Sumatra. I heard it has closed down (updated June 2013).edit
Friends caffee, Jalan Kartini (from Hotel Medan, turn left, the first right, then first left, and walk into the Jl Kartini untul you see Friends caffee on your left hand site). from noon. Excellent expressos, latte, iced-lattes and great juices. I heard it has closed down (updated June 2013).edit
Glee Cafe & Resto, Mataie Hillside Adventure & Water Park (Mataie - Keude bieng). edit
Black and White rumoh kuphi, Jl. T. Umar No. 19 Banda Aceh, . A cozy place to hang out with friends. You can find friendly faces although if you come solo. Coffee, local food including mie Aceh and various fresh juices. Free wifi is available.edit
Linda's Homestay, Lr, Rahmat No. 3, Keutapang, Banda Aceh (In a small, attractive area a bit outside of the centre, traditional Acehenese style house), ☎ +62 811 680 305, . checkin: all day; checkout: all day. Stay with a small family, enjoy the traditional, wonderful Acehenese food cooked by Linda. Close to several banks, restaurants, supermarket and internet cafe, but well away from the more interesting downtown areas. Airport and harbour shuttle and services available.US$20-35. edit
Hotel Lading, Jl Cut Meutia 19, Banda Aceh (next to Bank BRI), ☎ +62 651 635123, . checkin: 2PM; checkout: 1PM. Only 5 min walk to the Baiturrahman Grand Mosque and Pasar Aceh market. With a nice view of the Aceh River. Close to several banks, restaurants, supermarket and internet cafe. Airport shuttle services also available. Rp 50,000 for a bed in 4-bed dorm. A/c rooms cost considerably more.(updated June 2013). US$15-30. edit
Hermes Palace Hotel (formerly), Jl. T.Panglima Nyak Makam, ☎ +62 651 755 5888, . IDD telephone, refrigerator, hair dryer, internet access and 32 channel TV, wake up call service, concierge, meeting room, business centre and 24 hr room service.From US$70. edit
Hotel Medan (in the centre). 1 star hotel, Jl. Ahmad Yani No. 17 Peunayong-Banda Aceh, Phone :+62 651 21501, Web: www.hotel-medan.com price Rp 260.000/night for standard room (double bed or twin bed).
Hotel Sultan (in the centre). 2 star hotel, around US$30-40.
Pavilliun Seulawah, Jl. Prof. A. Majid. Ibrahim II No. 3, (in the centre,). Good hotel with a restaurant, wifi is included. Next to a park with sports possibilities. Around US$50.
Oasis Hotel (just outside the centre). More cozy than the Swiss Bell and the rooms are just as nice, with WiFi in the lobby. Around US$75 per night.
Uncle's Homestay, Jl Mujahidin No. 2B, Lambaro Skep. ☎+62 852 6028 4432 (mobile phone) or homestay ☎+62 651 26219. The family who run it tend to be noisy through the night so sleep can be difficult. Both Abdul and his wife Yulia speak English. A homestay room with fan for about Rp 75,000, A/C costs more.
The Pade Hotel, Jl Soekarno Hatta 1, ☎ +62 651 499999, . checkin: 12 noon; checkout: 12noon. Boutique hotel in the town, Spacious and modern rooms, individual terrace, WiFi. Saturday night BBQ, Wednesday pasta partyUS$50-120. edit
Hotel Wisata, Jl. Jend. A. Yani 19-21 Phone: +62 651 21834 (In the centre, next to Hotel Medan and Hotel Prapat). Clean basic rooms with small fan, cold shower,tv and wifi for Rp. 125.000. A room with A/C costs Rp. 175.000 (update 15 April 2015). Extra bed Rp 25.000 and you will get 1 addition bed, 1 blanket (bed cover) and 1 towel. Hot water also possible (room with A/C and hot shower Rp 225.000 ). Located right across the street from a popular night food stall area, souvenir shops and coffee shops.$13-18-23. edit
Hotel Prapat, Jl. Jend. A. Yani No. 17 Banda Aceh, Phone +62 651 22159 (between Hotel Wisata and Hotel Medan). checkout: 12.00 pm. Basic fan twin rooms with attached bathroom for Rp100,000 and triple bed Rp 150.000. With tv and/or a/c cost more (Rp 200.000 for twin bed and Rp 250.000 for triple bed). Rooms away from the street may be quieter. Great food across the street. (updated March 2015)Rp100,000 and up. edit
As with all travelling, common sense and a good attitude is all you need to get along in this small city. However there are some points to keep in mind. Although Banda Aceh is nowadays safer than most European cities, it is still best to not go out alone after 10PM. Because Sharia law is enforced, drinking alcohol is not permitted, although it is still possible. Infractions upon the locally perceived interpretations of Sharia law may result in arrest by the Sharia police with physical punishment and public ridicule imposed upon an offending Muslim. Muslim women should normally wear headscarves in public areas. Western-style swimsuits are not advisable except in Sabang. Pick-pocket activity is rare but do be aware and observant in crowded places.
Lhoknga and Lampuuk, beautiful beaches 17 km west of the city, great for surfing or just relaxing on the beach.
Pulau Weh, Sumatra's divers capital, via a 45 minute fast ferry service. Nice beach at 'Three Wells' with good snorkeling and a small cafe restaurant serving local and westernised food. Bungalows overlooking the sea are available to rent.
Medan, many overnight buses of varying quality to Medan, the best is Simpatistar. Leaves at 8:30pm from bus terminal, Rp 270,000 for luxury sleeping chair, arrives around 7am in Medan. Two warnings: Ask to get off at Pinang Baris bus station in Medan or you'll be dropped 5km away at Simpatistar bus office. And beware the scamming young men at Pinang Baris selling onward tickets at 4x real rates.
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