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A view of the city of Banda Aceh from a helicopter, showing the results of the Tsunami and the rebuilding effort.

Banda Aceh is the capital of the Indonesian province of Aceh on the island of Sumatra.

[edit] Understand

Around 150,000 people were killed in Banda Aceh in the Tsunami of 26 December 2004. Some parts of the city became permanently submerged. Many aid agencies have been present since then to help rebuild.

The long conflict between the Acehnese independence movement (GAM) and the Indonesian army (TNI) has been solved for the time being by the peace agreement on 15 August 2005. The peace process has been quite smooth since. On 11 December 2006 the province held its first direct and democratic local elections. On 8 February 2007 the first democratically elected Governor, Irwandi Yusuf, was inaugurated.

[edit] Get in

Banda Aceh airport

Foreigners no longer require a travel permit (surat jalan) to enter Aceh, but an Indonesian visa is required.

[edit] By bus

There are non-stop night buses, with travel times ranging from 9 to 13 hours - from Medan to Banda Aceh. Major bus companies such as PMTOH, Pelangi, Kurnia and Pusaka have offices on Jl. Gajah Mada, Medan. Price ranges from 110,000 in a regular-sized-seat bus to 200,000 in a wide-seat bus.

Mini-buses can also take you to Banda Aceh from the Medan area, but journeys are generally longer. Prices are a bit cheaper than the coaches. It is also possible to travel over from Medan to Banda Aceh via Kutacane and Takengon. This will be 20 hours in total.

[edit] By plane

Two airlines fly daily between Banda Aceh and either Medan (a one-hour trip) or Jakarta (a 2 hour 40 minute trip). Garuda has three daily flights from Jakarta and two daily flights from Medan. Lion Air has two daily flights from Jakarta and one from Medan. The Jakarta-Banda Aceh direct flight on Garuda takes 2 hrs 40 mins on a Boeing 737, although it is often changed to stopover at Medan without warning. SMAC Airlines flies daily from Medan to Nias Island and Simeulue Island. Air Asia also sells discount tickets on daily flights from Kuala Lumpur but you can not obtain a Visa On Arrival there. The Embassy in KL can process the visa in the same day if you complete all the paperwork before 12 (updated 14 nov 08). Firefly airlines [[1]] , Malaysia's community airline now flies from Penang to Banda Aceh every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.

[edit] By boat

The closest big (international) ferry terminal is Belawan Port, close to Medan. It receives vessels originating from Batam, Indonesia (a common route when coming from Singapore), Penang, Malaysia (Langkawi Ferry [[2]]). From Ulhee-lhee, the port of Banda Aceh you can go to Pulau Weh and to Pulau Aceh.

[edit] Get around

The main methods of getting around are becak (motorbike taxis) and labi-labi (public minibus). Due to the sudden influx of money post-tsunami, locals have gotten used to overcharging, but now stabilization has returned. Example becak fares are: Airport - Grand Mosque: 40,000; Bus Terminal - Grand Mosque: 8,000; Grand Mosque - Penayong: 5,000. Inside the city, generally 10,000 should do it.

[edit][add listing] See

Tsunami boat

It's very possible to go on a "Tsunami Tour", as there are many boats still inland and other monuments devoted to that devastating day in 2004.

• Fisherman boat on an inhabitant house, Desa Lampulo, Kota Alam. 59 people were reportedly saved by boarding this small boat and riding it to safety. Very dramatic image. free.  edit

• Floating Electric Generator Ship, Kampung Bunge Blangcut, Jayabaru. A ship was carried 5 km inland during the tsunami. You can get a nice overview of the city from the top of the ship.  edit

• Tsunami Monument & Garden. Located beside the electric generator ship.  edit

• Apung 1 ship, a 2600 ton vessel that was swept 2 km inland. Now a tourist attraction.

[edit] Others

• Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman/Grand Mosque. A truly beautiful artifact and the largest mosque in Aceh province. Muslim dresscode.  edit

• Cut Nya Dien House. Cut Nya Dien is an Indonesian's woman revolutionist from Aceh province.  edit

• The Museum Aceh.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Mountain Biking Cycling Hiking, Jln Al Huda Blok B, No 2 (close to food court), [3]. Cycle around the mountains, rice fields and beaches near Banda Aceh. Hike and Bike tours and mountain bikes available from 50 000.  edit
• Banda Aceh city highlights tour on a Bicycle., Jln Al Huda Blok B, No 2 (close to food court), [4]. A bike is a great way to explore both the long history of Banda Aceh as well as the impact of the 2004 Tsunami. Bicycles, maps and route descriptions are available at Aceh Adventure.  edit

[edit] Work

There are approximately 65 NGOs currently operating in Banda Aceh, however generally they do not recruit non-Indonesians locally. These NGos include various UN and EU agencies, USNS, Care, Americare, Islamic Relief, International Federation Of Red Cross and Red Crescent, Australian Red Cross, Turkish Red Crescent, Kuwaiti Red Crescent, French Red Cross, IMC, IOM, WHO, Japan International Cooperation System, Habitat, Medecins sans frontières, Japan Platform, USAID. AT the peak of the post-Tsunami aid effort there were 850 NGOs, however many of these were religious organisations with religious agendas and their permits were not extended by the Indonesian government.

[edit][add listing] Buy

• IFRC.  edit

[edit] Markets

There are interesting fish, meat and vegetable markets in the centre of town. There are also some small souvenir shops selling various local items.

[edit][add listing] Eat

The Acehnese breakfast staple is nasi gurih, rice cooked in coconut milk, sold in coffee shops everywhere. Food stalls and Padang restaurants are open across the undamaged part of town, and fruit carts are ubiquitous.

• PaceBene (Bene Restaurant), (Jl Bhakti no 33A-B, Kampung Laksana. Tel: 0651-31035). Best restaurant in town, not just for its fresh seafood, pasta and pizza, but also its great roof top garden. Dishes work from an Italian template, but with the best ingredients Banda Aceh has to offer. And watch out for when the salsa comes on, or the wait staff burst into spontaneous song. Also open Monday-Fridays for lunch.
• Tropicana Seafood Restaurant, (Jl A Yani No 90-92, Peunayong). High quality Chinese restaurant.
• Imperial Kitchen, (Jl Teuku Umar). High quality Chinese restaurant.
• Country Steakhouse, (Jl Sri Ratu Safiatuddin 46D). Steaks, hamburgers, salads etc. western style food.
• Banda Seafood Restaurant, (Jl Panglima Polem 125). Also offers fine chicken, meat and vegetable dishes. Near the Kartika Hotel.
• Warung Ibu Pocut, (Jl Nyak Adam Kamil IV 41-VII, near Kartika Hotel). In a traditional stilted wooden house with open sides, offers great local fare and a fresh breeze.Closed Jan 2009
• Big Top (across the road from Warung Ibu Pocut). Chinese and Indonesian dishes.
• Putra Jaya (Jl Tgk Haji Abdullah Ujung Rimba No 14, off Jl Muhammad near Masjid Baiturrahman). Panang style dining in nice air-con atmosphere with some English-speaking waiters.
• Niagara Cafe, (Jl Hasandek 8-9). Has every fruit juice imaginable and a satay stand outside.
• Istana, Jl. T. Panglima Polem, No. 66-68, ☎ 065131287. Two locations. Offers your typical Aceh fare in a tidy, AC-ed setting. Careful ordering - they may serve and charge you two dishes!  edit

The restaurant of the Hermes Palace[5] (formerly Swiss-Belhotel) is presumably the best hotel food in town and offers nice dinner buffets as well as ala carte. The Sultan Hotel has a popular cafe, while the chef at the hotel’s Koetaradja Restaurant boldly tries his hand at a Sultan Burger. There are some nice coffee houses with soothing rice paddie views around Ulee Kareng, along Jl Tengku Iskander on the town’s western outskirts. There are three fast food chain restaurants in the centre, A&W, KFC and Pizza Hut.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Drinking alcohol is not allowed. Coffee-drinking is the main activity.

• My Juice, Jl. Twk M. Daud Syan, No. 9-11, ☎ 065121613. On what you might call "Auto Blvd", this clean, friendly restaurant features some of the best juice combos around. Try the terung belanda fruit juice, which is only indigenous to Sumatra.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

• Hotel Lading, Jl Cut Meutia No.19, Banda Aceh (next to BRI), ☎ +62-651-635123, [6]. checkin: 14.00; checkout: 13.00. Only 5 minutes walk to the Baiturrahman Grand Mosque and Pasar Aceh market. With a nice view of the Aceh River. Close to several banks, restaurants, supermarket and internet cafe. USD15-30.  edit

• Hermes Palace Hotel, the first international hotel and landmark hotel of Banda Aceh. [7] Formerly known as the Swiss Bel-Hotel.
• Hotel Medan (in the centre) - one star hotel
• Hotel Sultan (in the centre) - two star hotel, around $30-40
• Pavilliun Seulawah (in the centre, Jl. Prof. A. Majid. Ibrahim II No. 3) - a good hotel, around $50. Wireless internet access (included), restaurant. Next to a park with sports possibilities.
• Oasis Hotel (just outside the centre) - more cozy than the Swiss Bell and the rooms are just as nice, with wireless internet in the lobby at around USD75 per night.
• Uncle's Homestay A back packer place- room with fan about 70,000- air con more.

The full address is: Uncle's Homestay, Jalan Mujahidin No. 2B, Lambaro Skep, Banda Aceh Mobile no: +62852 6028 4432 (mobile phone) or homestay no: 0651-26219 Both Uncle (Abdul) and his wife Yulia speak English.

• The Pade Hotel, Jl Soekarno Hatta 1, ☎ 499999, [8]. checkin: 12.00; checkout: 12.00. The best Boutique Hotel in Town, Spacious and modern Guestrooms, individual terrace, Wi fi zone US $ 50- 120.  edit, Every Saturday Barbeque Night, Every Wednesday Pasta Party. www.thepade.com
• Eddie Homestay. The full address is:Jl. Golf - Lhoknga in front of Golf course - Banda Aceh - Aceh Province. Eddie Homestay is new and very nice atmosphere with $5 per night. Eddie mobile phone# +62811688682, +6281360319126 and +6281360041350 and you can also reach him by email: ediquenzalo@yahoo.com and decolunga@yahoo.com. His speak English well and his family too. The beach is very good for surfing, sunbathing and relaxing. $ 5 pernight.  edit

[edit] Stay safe

As with all traveling, common sense and a good attitude is all you need to get along in this small city, however there are some points to keep in mind. Although Banda Aceh is nowadays safer than most European cities. It's best to not go out alone after 10pm. Because Sharia law is enforced, drinking alcohol and relationships between Muslim locals and foreigners are not permitted. Although both are possible, they may result in arrest by the Sharia police and physical punishment for the Muslim party involved. Muslim women should wear headscarves in public areas. As a matter of taste, Western-style swimsuits aren't advisable except in Sabang. Pick-pocket is rare but be aware in crowded places.

[edit] Get out

• Lhoknga, a great beach 17 km west from the city
• Lampuuk, another surfing beach