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Aswan is in the south of Egypt, some 680 km (425 miles) south of Cairo, just below the Aswan Dam and Lake Nasser. Compared to Cairo and Luxor, Aswan is a far more relaxed, if smaller, alternative as a traveller's destination.

[edit] Understand

Aswan is the smallest of the three major tourist cities based on the Nile. Being the furthest south of the three, it has a large population of Nubian people, mostly resettled from their homeland in the area flooded by Lake Nasser. Aswan is the home of many granite quarries from which most of the Obelisks seen in Luxor were sourced. Aswan was the ancient Egyptians' gateway to Africa.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

An average of six return flights a day are maintained by Egyptair [1] between Aswan and the Egyptian capital Cairo. There is also a once daily flight to Luxor, and several daily flights to Abu Simbel, with service on the last route fluctuating according to season. The EgyptAir booking office can be found toward the southern end of the corniche, on the landward side.

The airport is situated 25km SSW of the city, on the west bank and just south of the high dam. Public buses don't run into the airport itself and security on the approach road to the terminal is tight, so it's probably worth taking a taxi, for which you must agree a price in advance. It is possible to argue the fare down to LE25, but LE30 to LE40 is more realistic (and easier) for most foreigners.

Keep your tickets and passport accessible, as you will need to show them to the checkpoint guards on the terminal approach road.

[edit] By train

Egypt's train service which runs along the Nile extends down to Aswan and is a regular and a good travel alternative to the plane for some journeys. Travel time to Luxor is around 3 hours on 1st/2nd class AC services, and all northbound trains stop there. Five AC express services depart to Cairo each day, taking 13-14 hours (LE55 2nd class, LE109 1st class), as well as the Abela sleeper train (approx. US$60, two trains each evening, one continuing to Alexandria).

Aswan train station lies on the northern end of the city centre, a few hundred metres inland from the river. Leave plenty of time to buy tickets, as the service at the counters is slow. Mini buses depart from outside the station (turn right as you exit the terminal), and there are a number of cafes and basic hotels on the blocks between the station and the river.

[edit] By car

[edit] By bus

If you are in Hurghada you can catch a bus from there down to Aswan for about 45 EGP (about US$8). Tickets are sold on the bus, but be sure to ask the price at the ticket office, because the ticket seller on the bus will often raise the price 5 EGP or so and pocket the excess if you are a foreigner.

Hurghada-Aswan is around 300km but as Egyptian buses aren't always very reliable the trip could take anything from three hours to nine.

[edit] By boat

Sharm el-Sheikh in Sinai --> speed boat to Hurghada --> bus to Aswan --> approximately $50 (250 EGP/US$45 for the speed boat, 45 EGP/US$8 for the bus)

Dozens of cruise ships depart from Luxor to Aswan everyday. These can be booked through agents or at the actual ships themselves.

[edit] Get around

Aswan is compact enough to negotiate primarily on foot. For weary feet or for some of the more far flung attractions (like Philae, the High Dam and the unfinished obelisks) there are other options that include taxis and horse-drawn carriages. Note that to access the sights on the river islands or on the West Bank, you will need to cross the river by motor boat or felluca.

[edit][add listing] See

The souqs (markets) in Aswan are refreshingly exotic without the same level of high-pressure selling found in some tourist towns further north - see below in Buy

[edit] Aswan Town and the East Bank

• Nubian Museum, located opposite the Basma Hotel, south of the Old Cataract Hotel, at the southern edge of Aswan town on Sharia Abtal al-Tahrir - approximately a half hour walk from the city centre. Entry EGY£20. Camera fee: EGY£10. Open daily 0900-1300 and 1700-2100.

• Unfinished Obelisk, gives a glimpse into the way these structures were constructed.

[edit] The River and Islands

• Sehel Island - Well known for its excellent beaded jewelry. Also the location of the Famine Stela. The site is open till 4:00 P.M.

• Elephantine Island - The local Nubian villages of Siou and Koti occupy this island. Also home to the famous Nilometers and the Temples of Sati, Khnum and Pepinakht-Heqaib. There is also Nubian Museum. Entrance fee is 5 pound but the ticket seller usually say no change to the visitors. So, please bring small money. Also, be careful of unsolicited tours from locals, which will result in a request for baksheesh. There is regular boat taxi who run by the locals for only 2 EP for one crossing but they will charge more for the tourist. Five Egyptian pound will be mostly accepted.

• Kitcheners Island - Also known as Plantation Island: has wonderful botanical gardens amidst the Nile.

[edit] West Bank

• Tombs of the Nobles - he northern hills of the west bank are filled with the rock-hewn tombs of princes from the Old Kingdom to the Roman period. The 6th Dynasty tombs, some of which form linked family complexes, contain important biographical texts. Inside, the tombs are decorated with vivid wall paintings showing scenes of everyday life, hieroglyphic biographies and inscriptions telling of the noblemen's journeys into Africa.
• Kubbet el-Hawa - on top of the hill above the Tombs of the Nobles is to be found a small shrine / tomb of a local sheikh and holy man. The climb is rewarded with amazing views of Aswan, the Nile river and the surrounding landscape, richly evoked in the translation from the Arabic of the place name, "the dome of the wind'.
• Mausoleum of the Aga Khan
• Monastery of St Simeon - The history of the monastery of St. Simeon dates back to the 7th century, and survived long as a Christian stronghold of southern Egypt until destroyed by Saladin in 1173. While still in use it housed 300 monks, and could in addition receive up to 100 pilgrims at a time. The monastery was surrounded by a 10 metre high wall, and doubled as a fortress. Apparently, the monastery did not return to its original use after Saladin's destruction.

[edit] Around Aswan

• The High Dam - Despite being a highly important piece of infrastructure, the Aswan High Dam is (to put it delicately) a bit of a letdown even for dam lovers. Not at all worth the £20 entrance fee.
  

  

  Philue Temple
• Philae Temple - Built to honor Isis, this was the last ancient temple built in the the classical Egyptian architectural style. Construction began in approx 690 BC. It was moved from its original location on Philae Island, to its new location on Agilkia Island, after the flooding of Lake Nasser. A major multinational UNESCO team relocated Philae, and a number of other temples that now dot the shores of Lake Nasser. You can see the submerged original island a short distance away, punctuated by the steel columns used in the moving process. Don't miss the Sound and Light show at night, see picture to the right, the least cheesy of the Sound and Light "extravaganzas". On your feet, look out for the extremely creative guards who will do all in their power to get in your photos, or to point out the hieroglpyhs that you can quite clearly see yourself, all for some baksheesh(tip)! Note also the re-use of the temple as a Christian church, with crosses carved into the older hieroglyph reliefs, and images of the Egyptian gods carefully defaced. There are grafitti dating from the 1800s.

• Kalabsha Temple - Like Philae this temple and its surrounding ruins were moved by UNESCO to save them from the floodwaters of Lake Nasser. The main temple was built to the Nubian fertility and sun god Marul during the rule of Emperor Augustus. Don't miss the Kiosk of Qirtasi and the amazing Temple of Beit al-Wali built by Ramesses II.

• Abu Simbel - Most people use Aswan as a base to see this fantastic temple. There is a convoy that departs at 3AM, and is usually arranged by your hotel. See article for more details

[edit][add listing] Do

• Rent a bike at Guesthouse Bet el Kerem and discover the West bank on your own: the traditional farming areas along the Nile, the unspoilt Nubian villages, the desert roads. You might even make a "tour d'Aswan"; if you cross the modern bridge to the east bank and bring back your bicycle afterwards by ferry boat.
• Take a felucca cruise on the Nile at Aswan. Two hours of felucca trip will cost you between 25-50 EP depends on your negotiation skills.
• Get on a tour to visit Abu Simbel (must see)
• Take a camel ride to the Monastery of St Simeon. Grab a felucca captain and they will shuttle you across to the camel marshalling area.
• Have tea with the local shopkeepers in the souk. You will get a fascinating insight into their daily lives, and they love to practise their English on you.

[edit] Learn

[edit][add listing] Buy

You will generally find that Nubian handicrafts are of higher quality and better value in Aswan. All other goods will almost certainly be cheaper as you travel North towards Cairo due to shipping costs to Aswan and the lower tourist demand. Having said that, the Aswan souk is the most charming in Egypt, and deserves your custom, so if you don't mind paying a 5-10% premium in price you should help these struggling shopkeepers and buy from them. There is far less pressure to buy than in other cities.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Budget

The Aswan Moon - Situated on pontoons along the Nile, cheap and generally decent food with cheery service. The local fish joints near the city market can be excellent -- their fish is fresh, and you can watch it cook. Don't miss the crab soup!

[edit] Mid-range

Elephantine Island Resort. Poor quality of food. Stale bread for breakfast... Yummee......

[edit] Splurge

The Old Cataract Hotel is wonderful. Be sure to have a a meal and a beverage on their terrace at sunset, watching the feluccas. Agatha Christie stayed here, and wrote 'Death on the Nile'. NB (THE SOFITEL CATARACT ASWAN WILL BE CLOSED FOR REFURBISHMENT FOR 24 MONTHS FROM 1 MAY 2008. THE HOTEL WILL REOPEN AS A SOFITEL LEGEND.) As per Sofitel website.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Aswan is much less strict on drinking alcohol than Cairo or Luxor, and many of the restaurants sell Stella (Egyptian brand not the Belgian brand) and Saqqara, both of which are lagers and comparable to European beers.

The terrace bar at the Old Cataract Hotel is open to non-guests for a small fee, so budget travellers can enjoy a drink in luxury.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

• Guesthouse Bet el Kerem''Since 2009; the only hotel accommodation on the Westbank. Quiet atmosphere, hospitable staff, clean rooms, small (8 double rooms), restaurant for guests on the roof terrace. Marvellous view over the Nile, the desert and the Nubian villages. It it located near the Tombs of the Nobles and close to the ferry boat to Aswan centre. Perfect place if you are looking for something different! You can even rent a bike to discover the West bank and the Nubian villages.

• The Philae Hotel - A mixed bag. On the upside excellent price, friendly staff, and some of the best views in Egypt(make sure you get a Nile View room). On the downside somewhat rundown rooms, gives you that camping inside feeling, not always plenty of hot water! Still if you are up for a bit of adventure, the Philae Hotel is worth a try!

• Keylany Hotel [2], Sharia Keylany, Tel. (097) 231 7332, 29 rooms. Cheap and comfortable, with impeccable service and no sales pressure (a rarity in Egypt!). Rooms and sheets are very clean unlike many other budget hotels in Egypt. It is located near Nile corniche and the bazaar. Free Wifi. They can also organize a ride to Abu Simbel in an air-conditioned minibus for 60 EGP. 136 EGP for a double ensuite with AC

• Noorhan Hotel, off Sharia Abtal at-Tahrir, doubles from 15 EGP, clean and pleasant with functioning (common) hot shower, self-contained rooms from 20 EGP

• Marwa Hotel, in a small side alley off Sharia Abtal at-Tahrir, dorms from 6 EGP

• HI Youth Hostel, 96 Sharia Abtal at-Tahrir, dorms from 6 EGP

[edit] Mid-range

Don't stay on Elephantine Island Resort until the place has been refurbished. We did and it was a shame to see how run down it was

[edit] Splurge

• The Old Cataract Hotel [3], Abtal El Tahrir Street, tel +20 97/2316000, fax +20 97/2316011, email: mailto:H1666@accor.com - Live it up like the aristocrats of old! Now part of the Sofitel chain of hotels, the Old Cataract Hotel overlooks the Nile River opposite the island of Elephantine. 123 rooms and 8 suites. Standard room from €89, breakfast included. NB (THE SOFITEL CATARACT ASWAN WILL BE CLOSED FOR REFURBISHMENT FOR 24 MONTHS FROM 1 MAY 2008. THE HOTEL WILL REOPEN AS A SOFITEL LEGEND.) As per Sofitel website.

[edit] Contact

NB: As of August 2004, Aswan has had its telephone exchange upgraded and an additional "2" must now be added to old 6-digit telephone numbers..... The format for overseas callers, for example, should now be +20 97 2xxx xxx. Mobile phone numbers are unaffected by this change.

[edit] Stay safe

Aswan is generally a very safe city. The locals will look after you like a long lost brother, although I hope they don't try to fleece family like they do Tourists! Women should avoid travelling alone if they are not comfortable with leering men, although they are all bluster.

[edit] Cope

There is so much to do around the Aswan area, that time will be an issue. The local people have been very cooperative, and for a price, doors might remain opened regardless of the hour.

[edit] Get out

• Aswan is the ideal base for trips to the nearby attractions of the Aswan High Dam and the temple of Philae. A taxi-driven tour to these sites, including a visit to the Unfinished Obelisk, should cost about £30-40 for a small group.

• The little visited Kalabsha Temple is worth a visit if you want to do something a bit different from the Tourists. Kalabsha is another relocated temple from the flooding of Lake Nasser. A short taxi ride from Aswan, not far from Philae Temple. Don't miss the outdoor Museum around the back, along with a small Ramses II tomb.

• Taxi trips can also be taken to the nearby towns of Daraw and Kom Ombo further north on the Nile. Arrange this carefully as a police convoy may well be necessary.

The best way to leave the city of Aswan is by Felucca. This is a traditional sailing boat typical of the region. Felucca trips can be taken all the way to Luxor along the Nile although most people do two or three nights. You sleep on board the boat and have a crew of two who sail the boat and cook the the meals. You can stop and visit the village of Daraw as well as seeing some smaller temples along the way. The most famous of the captains is the Jamaica family. You will have to take the ferry from opposite Thomas Cook over to Elephantine to find them (the house is where you get off the ferry), although if you ask, any of the captains in the main city will "say" they are from Jamaica family. Ask for JJ or give him a call [4] and he can meet you in the town.

Many of the Felucca trips don't meet the expectation. Three days and 2 nights felucca trip will take you to Kon Ombo but many of trip only reach a few kilometeres outside of Aswan after 3 days journey. The captain will blame the wind cannot take you to the destination and you will be transferred to Minibus following the convoy to continue your journey to Kon Ombo. Choosing a good felucca captain can be a challenging experience. The better way is join the felucca trip arrange by the guesthouse or hotel but still not guaranty take you to your destination. The price will be around 100-120 Egyptian pound per person (2008)

• Further afield lies Abu Simbel.

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