Asunción

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South America : Paraguay : Asunción
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Asunción is the capital of Paraguay.

Asunción, as all of Paraguay, is a very contrasting place. Some rank Asunción as the world's cheapest capital. Few people would be able to explain why it is so charming despite having few traditional tourist attractions like beaches, mountains, or skyscrapers. As soon as you arrive, you will experience the sort of magic that exists in this place.

Few people speak English here and without at least some basic Spanish it might be hard to get by. From Saturday afternoon and all Sunday most businesses are closed and the city centre can become quite deserted.

[edit] Get in

Citizens of the U.S. and Canada must have a visa before travelling to Paraguay. Most citizens of the E.U. do not. [1]

The bus terminal has an information office in its centre and can also help with tourist information. The official tourist information is on Palma 468 behind the glass door (no obvious sign outside).

[edit] By plane

From outside of South America, there are no direct flights to Asunción (Silvio Pettirossi International Airport). The best options are Sao Paulo or Buenos Aires (from where you could alternatively also take a direct bus to Asunción, 20h and 17h respectively) and change to one of the local carriers, e.g. TAM, Varig, GOL Airlines, Aerolineas Argentinas.

[edit] By train

There are no trains. The building once used as the train station is at Plaza Uruguaya.

[edit] By car

Driving a car yourself is not recommended since many streets are in disrepair and apart from the main roads many are unpaved. The traffic in the city can be quite chaotic and dangerous for unused drivers. However, it gets much better once outside of the city. The car rental companies can also provide drivers.

  • Hertz Car Rental, (at the airport).  edit
  • National Car Rentals, (Yegros 501), ☎ (+595) 21-492 157.  edit
  • Avis Car Rentals, corner Antequera and Pte. Franco (at Plaza Uruguaya).  edit

[edit] By bus

The bus terminal is about about 5 km from the historic center. So you better take a taxi or a bus to the centre. The street Fernando de La Mora in front of the terminal leads to the city centre. Some bus companies have offices on Plaza Urugaya in the city centre.

There are normally two type of services to the bigger cities: común and rápido. While the first are cheaper, they also stop in every small town or community along the way and hence take longer then the rapidos which run direct or with a few stops only. Rapidos are less frequent.

[edit] By boat

The port is at the riverside end of Montevideo just after Paraguayo Independiente.

  • "Cacique II" leaves Concepción to Asunción on Sundays between 6-7 am 22 hours, 55.000 Gs. Returns to Concepción on Wednesday morning. Bring warm clothes and your own food. A cheap meal might be bought on board but don't count on it.
  • There are also occasionally cargo boats doing the trip to Concepción and even further up the Rio Paraguay.

[edit] Get around

The historic centre of Asunción is small enough to be explored by foot. However, some of the attractions are a bit outside.

[edit] By bus

Buses are ubiquitous, cheap and an experience in itself (be careful while exiting since many only slow down, rather than stop completely, for the passengers to get off). They go everywhere in the city. You need a knowledge of Spanish to ask your way along. As of June 2008, the fare is 2.300 Gs (constantly rising).

From the bus terminal take bus number 8 from the main bus stop just outside the terminal on Fernando de la Mora. It will take you in about 20-30 min to Plaza Paraguaya (the first real square with trees and greens). Get off there or a few blocks later. There are also other buses going to the centre. To the bus terminal take any bus from Oliva telling "Terminal" on its front screen.

[edit] By taxi

Taxis are also available and inexpensive.

[edit][add listing] See

Asunción may not have much to see, but if you are willing to be your own tour guide, Asunción can be a good time.

Every July there is a trade fair with exhibition booths, food, music and liquor. This is a good way to learn about what goes on in the country, the exhibitors range from agricultural suppliers to liquor manufacturers. Keep an eye out for the many free samples of food, soap, drinks, etc.

  • National Congress One of the more impressive new buildings in the city. It was built in 2002 with $20 million from the Taiwanese government. Paraguay is one of the few countries that recognizes Taiwan as opposed to mainland China. Most striking is its mirrored facade, which reflects the nearby slums along the bank of the river. You can ask for a tour in English - and maybe get one.
  • The National Cathedral Across the broad and picturesque plaza with fountains, but it is frequently closed, especially at midday siesta.
  • The Municipal Museum is modest, but has some tidbits about the old tram line from the 1880s and other civic history. Nearby is the Visual Arts Museum with temporary exhibits from national artists.
  • The Fine Arts museum is fairly unimpressive.
  • The Panteón del los Heroes houses the tomb of the unknown soldier as well as plaques for the heroes of the Chaco war.
  • Backyard birds in the city are interesting. There is the Great Kiskadee, Saffron Finch and Hornero. Kiskadee is like a yellow blue jay-- aggressive and large. Saffron finch is similar to a yellow house finch, Hornero is much like American Robin without the red breast. It builds a unique nest about the size and shape of a football completely out of mud and resembles a Paraguayan oven or horno. Thus the name: "baker".

[edit][add listing] Do

[edit] Learn

[edit] Work

[edit][add listing] Buy

The cost of buying goods and services is cheap. This is only partly due to the fact that Paraguay is a piracy and smuggling haven. Be aware that goods may be cheaply made. Indigenous crafts are available such as tooled leather, carved wood, pottery and a particularly Paraguayan lace based on a spider's web called "Nanduti." Shopping malls, such as Shopping del Sol and Shopping Mariscal López, exist in the suburbs but not the city centre.

Typical souvenirs from Asunción would include guampas/bombillas, t-shirts, traditional lace, or leather goods.

  • Palma is the main shopping street. Everything you can buy here, you can get cheaper in one of the parallel streets.
  • American Express Traveller Cheques can be changed at Banco de la Nacion Argentina (at Plaza des Heroes). Above average exchange rate, 3 US$ comission. It will take a while though - time to experience the place which could be a sight in itself. BBVN supposedly does as well. Casa de Cambios don't. All banks close by 1:30 pm.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Don't eat raw food that might have been washed - and contaminated - with tap water, such as salads and unpeelable fruits.

Paraguay has a tradition for beef which is normally good quality and cheap. Grilled meat (asado) is the thing to eat. Pasta is also popular as are the street stalls selling panchos (hot-dogs), hamburger and similar fast-food. Vegetables, salad and other types of meat are not that common but available. In restaurants you normally get manioc as a side dish for free (similar to bread in other countries).

At lunch time there is no shortage of cheap restaurants to dine in or take away - you can't miss them. The places where you help yourself and pay by weight are usually very cheap and a decent option besides the slightly more expensive restaurants with their daily menu. At dinner time only very few eating places are still open and finding a good deal - especially if you are budget-conscious - is a lot harder.

[edit] Budget

Most shopping malls have decent food courts with a variety of restaurants, however, they are located away from the centre. Bigger supermarkets often have a cheap self-service restaurant inside.

  • Burger King, Palma between 14 de Mayo and 15 de Agosto. If you fancy something you know. Also open in the evening.  edit
  • Supermercado El Pais, Antequera and 25 de Mayo (on Plaza Uruguaya). open until 9:30pm, Sunday only until noon. There's a self-service restaurant inside this supermarket. Cheap and open in the evening.  edit
  • Restaurant Internacional, Fernando de la Mora (opposite the bus terminal). A good and not too expensive place. Sometimes with life music. Popular also with locals to hang out for a beer. Open in the evening.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Confiteria/Snack Bar/Restaurant Bolsi, (corner Estrella and Alberdi). Mo-Su, also open in the evening. It has been there for decades, serving some more and some less traditional food to a mixed crowd of people.  edit
  • Hacienda Las Palomas, Senador Long 1481 (corner Senador Long and Guido Spano), ☎ 605-111. Really good Mexican food (not "chips & salsa Tex-Mex"). The margaritas are particularly good, but the food is even better.  edit
  • Shangri-La, Aviadores del Chaco c/ San Martín (corner Aviadores del Chaco and San Martín), ☎ 661-618. Good Chinese food.  edit

[edit] Splurge

For a traditional Paraguayan meal, visit "La Paraguayita." Don't miss a Brazillian steak house called a "churrasqueria."

  • Acuarela, Mcal. López 4049 (near San Martin), ☎ +595 21 609 217.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

[edit] General

Drink only bottled or chlorinated water. The latter you get sometimes with your coffee.

The most common drink in Paraguay is Mate made of Yerba Mate (Mate herbs) that is similar in style to tea but the preparation is distinct. To add sugar is not common in Paraguay. When it is summerly hot, it is more common to drink it with cold water and called Terere (pronounced tae-rae-rae) - often drunk from a cow horn fasioned cup. Cold or hot, it is drunk through a communal silver-plated straw (the bombilla). It is a social activity so the cup is passed around - with in between a refill for each person. If you are offered either you should accept at least one cup. Another variation of preparation is to boil the yerba on the stove with sugar then strain it before serving it with milk. It tastes a bit like smoked tea. In this form it is called Cocido, which simply means "cooked".

Gaseosa means soda water of any type. All the usual brands are available. Try the local Guarana Soda.

Coffee is mostly of an Italian variety. There are several locations of Café Havanna, a Starbucks-like Argentine coffee chain. One is just off the corner of Avenida Mcal. López and Avenida Rca. Argentina.

[edit] Bars

  • Brittania Pub, Cerro Cora. We to Su. Many foreigners  edit
  • Coyote.  edit
  • La Mansion. Fr and Sa from around midnight. This is Asunción's premiere gay night club - and its only. Chill atmosphere, fun dancing and a big crowd of gays and surprisingly numerous lesbians. Straights welcome. Located several blocks up the hill from the Brittania pub. After closing time at 3am, follow the locals to the after-club where the party continues til dawn. 10.000 Gs entry includes a drink.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

While a great many hotels exist in Asunción and to find a bed should never be too difficult, decent places in the budget range are rare. The highest concentration of hotels from budget to splurge can be found in the city centre between the streets Cristobal Colon and Estados Unidos. There is also quite a number of cheap places opposite the bus terminal (in particular on Lapacho a side street of La Mora), though you get normally better value in the city centre. During off-season you may be quoted discounted prices before even asking for it.

[edit] Budget

Try it also in the following streets next to Plaza Uruguay: Mexico, Paraguari and Antequera.

  • Hotel Miami, Av México 449 (right off Plaza Uruguaya), ☎ 444 950. Avoid noisy rooms facing square. Single from 50.000 Gs (fan, no TV).  edit
  • La Española, Luis A. de Herrera 142 (near Yegros). A friendly and clean option in the centre, with free WiFi. Some of the beds are on the hard side. double 80.000 Gs (Aircon, Cable TV, breakfast).  edit
  • Hotel Sagaró, Presidente Franco 657 (between 15 de Agosto and O'Leary), ☎ ++595 21 440 377, [2]. A place that has seen its best day. However, it's very central though the disco on the weekend can be a nuisance (get a room on the left). double 70.000 Gs (Aircon, Cable TV, breakfast at additional cost).  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Hotel Palmas del Sol, Avenida España 202 (Tacuary, near Plaza Uruguaya), [3]. Popular with groups. Has pool and a feel more appropriate to a seaside hotel. Quiet. Free Internet and WiFi. single/double 137.000/ 192.000 Gs (incl. IVA and breakfast).  edit
  • Hotel Chaco, Caballero 285 (corner Mcal. Estigarribia, near Plaza Uruguay), ☎ +595 21 492 066, [4]. A decent hotel in the centre of the city. double from 75 US$.  edit
  • Hotel Westfalenhaus, [5]. Cheaper per week. double from 75 US$.  edit
  • Hotel Los Alpes, Del Maestro 1686 (Del Maestro off of Avenida San Martín), ☎ 606-286 (). Great hotel, well-located, and very comfortable. double from 45 US$.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Sheraton Asunción, Aviadores Del Chaco 2066, ☎ 617-7000 (, fax: 617-7001), [6]. checkin: 3:00pm; checkout: 12:00pm. $100+.  edit
  • Hotel Excelsior, Chile 980 (Manduvira Street), ☎ +595 21 495 632, [7]. from 100 US$.  edit
  • Asunción Internacional Hotel, [8].  edit

[edit] Contact

  • CyberKing, (corner Oliva and 14 de Mayo). Open 24h - more or less. A good place for Internet and one of the only ones open late as well. 5.000 Gs/h with Skype.  edit

[edit] Stay safe

Federal police have a highly visible presence. Some already decked out in riot gear as if an uprising were forthcoming at any moment. Because the dictator did not tolerate crime in any form-- a violator simply disappeared, possibly in the river-- crime is not prevalent. Although the perception of crime now that the dictator is no longer in power runs high. Houses are protected by twenty foot high walls topped by barbed wire and electric fence or razor wire. Many, who can afford it, have a full time 24 hour guard on their grounds. Prostitution is rampant and obvious after dark on the main avenues. Liquor is easily available but not abused-- everyone drinks terere instead. There are casinos for gambling but only with electronic machines so again not abused. Pickpocketing is said to be prevalent in crowded downtown streets near expensive hotels.

Be extremely careful when crossing streets in Asunción. Most drivers consider stop signs and traffic lights to be merely suggestions, even if police are nearby. Buses will stop for almost nothing, so be very careful.

The United States CDC recommends that all visitors to Asunción receive a Typhoid vaccination prior to travel. Dengue fever is frequently a risk one takes when traveling to Asunción; unfortunately, no vaccine for this currently exists. To avoid insect-spread diseases, ensure that you use bug spray at all times of the day, without exception.

[edit] Cope

Asunción is just south of the Tropic of Capricorn so the weather is tropical. That is, mostly hot, especially in South American summer (winter in the northern hemisphere). Temperatures in December through March can consistently climb over 100 F. Humidity can be high and uncomfortable. However the weather is highly variable! When the sun shines you bake. When the rains come they come in buckets and the temperature drops precipitously.It can be very dry when the rains hold off for just a few days. Then the clouds build and it becomes cold.

Flies, ants and especially mosquitoes (but no large, creepy bugs) are everywhere. There are no screens, windows and doors are simply flung open for ventilation. Air conditioners do exist but most people depend on less expensive fans. Heaters do not exist, though on the chilliest days they would be welcomed. The soil is bright red and as many streets are unpaved dust becomes a problem. There are trees (some in the middle of roads!) for shade, but palm trees are planted everywhere. Dogs and farm animals of every description are all over the roads. There is no humane society to care for wild dogs and some are pitifully mangy. It is not uncommon to see pigs wallowing in a mud puddle in the middle of a road, chickens are everywhere, horses, donkeys and cows run loose and can be found in anyone's property.

It is brutally hot in Paraguay's summer. If you've ever wondered why Latin culture has a "siesta" where everything closes down at noon for a few hours, you'll soon know why if you spend time in Asunción during the summer. You'll also understand why people eat dinner so late and stay out partying all night: it's too hot during the day to enjoy being outside.

[edit] Get out

  • A visit to an Estancia makes a good day off or so from Asunción (some are within easy reach of public transport). Horesriding, fishing, swimming, guided nature walks are among the activities offered. Those that participate in APATUR (get the booklet from the tourist information) have generally a high standard. Some can only be visited during the day others have accommodation (expect about 80 US$ per night incl. all food and activities). Bookings can be made through TACP (021-210 550) or by contacting the Estancias directly. Travel agencies also offer trips to Estancias and typically include private transport back and forth.
  • Circuito de Oro (Golden Circuit) is a day-trip to a couple of historical towns in the sourrounding of Asunción
  • Aregua is a lakeside town about 20km from Asunción and makes a good day trip. On Sundays, there is a steam train running including a theatre on the way. There are also buses going there costing the standard fare, e.g. from in front of the Bus Terminal.

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