From Wikitravel

For other places with the same name, see Alexandria (disambiguation).

Alexandria (الإسكندرية al-Iskanderiyya) is Egypt's second largest city (3.5 million people), its largest seaport and the country's window onto the Mediterranean Sea. It's a faded shade of its former glorious cosmopolitan self, but still worth a visit for its many cultural attractions and still-palpable glimpses of its past.

[edit] Understand

[edit] History

Sic transit gloria mundi. Alexandria was founded by Greek conqueror Alexander the Great (Iskander al-Akbar) in 334 BCE, who also built the Lighthouse of Alexandria, among the world's tallest buildings at the time and one of the world's seven wonders. Rivaling Rome in wealth and power in its heyday, the Library of Alexandria was the world's greatest center of learning and, while it changed hands from Rome to Byzantine and finally Persia, the city stayed the capital of Egypt for a millennium.

Alas, Alexandria's era came to an end when the Arabs conquered Egypt in 641 and decided to found a new capital to the south in Cairo. (Scholars still debate if this was when the Library was finally destroyed; it is known that the Library was, at the very least, sacked and badly damaged by the Romans themselves in 48 BC, c. 270, and once more in 391.)

Alexandria survived on as a trading port, whose cosmopolitan and decadent lifestyle before and during World War II was chronicled in Laurence Durrell's Alexandria Quartet, but this, too, took a shattering blow in the 1950s when Egypt's new fiercely nationalist leader Gamal Abdel Nasser nationalized vast swathes of the economy and expelled tens of thousands of foreigners from the country, including virtually all of Alexandria's once 150,000-strong Greek community.

Today's Alexandria is a dusty seaside Egyptian town with an over-inflated population of 5 million. But history both ancient and modern is everywhere if you peer closely enough: the French-style parks and the occasional French street sign survive as a legacy of Napoleon, one of Alexandria's many conquerors, and the few remaining Greek restaurants and cafés still dominate the cultural scene.

[edit] Orientation

Alexandria's primary promenade is the seaside Corniche. At the western tip lies the fort of Qait Bey, built near the presumed site of the former Lighthouse (Pharos in Greek), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, while the eastern shore sprawls for miles on end with the slums and tenements of modern Alex.

[edit] Get in

Alexandria is easily reached by plane, train or bus.

[edit] By plane

Alexandria has two airports in the immediate vicinity and is also within striking distance of Cairo.

Alexandria's main airport is El Nouzha Airport (IATA: ALY), which has a limited selection of domestic flights and fairly extensive services to cities around the Middle East. The only connection to Europe, though, is from Athens on Olympic Airlines. The airport lies 8 km (5 mi) to the south-east of the city. A taxi will take you 15-20 minutes and should cost no more than 40 LE.

The city's second airport is Borg el Arab Airport (IATA: HBE), served by Lufthansa from Frankfurt, Emirates from Dubai and (soon) Turkish from Istanbul. It's rather less conveniently located some 25 km (16 mi) to the south-west of Alexandria, which means a journey of 40-45 minutes by taxi, which should cost you no more than 100LE.

Most travellers, however, will come via Cairo, the country's capital, which is much better connected. Super-Jet and Western Delta operate direct buses from the airport to the Sidi-Gabr bus terminal every 30-60 minutes between 4 AM and 7:30 PM (25-31 LE).

[edit] By train

Frequent trains from Cairo's railway station on Midan Ramses are probably the best way to get to Alexandria. Trains run at least once every hour from 6 AM to 10 PM, but try to choose either an express or the pride of Egyptian Railways, the French-built Turbo, which takes only 2 hours 10 minutes for the journey. 1st/2nd class tickets LE 46/20 one-way. Some trains (mostly slow ordinary ones) also continue on to Port Said.

Trains to Cairo depart from the aptly named Misr Station, a 10-minute stroll south of the Corniche along Nabi Daniel St; as well as the Sidi Gaber Station.

[edit] By car

There are two options when travelling by car, either taking the Agriculture road, which has various farms surrounding its sides, or the Desert road, which as the name implies, is through the desert with only some cafeterias and local inhabitants located on both sides every couple of kilometers. The journey usually takes around 3 hours, depending on speed and surrounding traffic.

[edit] By bus

Several bus companies offer a bus service into Alexandria at a very low price range: 20-35 LE. Buses are air conditioned and come complete with a hostess trolley service. Companies include Golden Arrow, West Delta, Super Jet and Pullman. Operation timings vary from one company to another, but there are trips between Cairo and Alexandria virtually every hour from early morning till midnight.

Note that while the buses themselves are perfectly comfortable, the duration of your journey from Cairo to Alexandria (and vice versa) will depend on your pick-up/drop-off point. Most buses start out from the Almaza Bus Station in Heliopolis and stop by Tahrir Sq. and Giza before finally setting out to Alexandria; if you join from Heliopolis expect a 4-5 hour trip rather than the average 2-3.

Also note that there are a number of pick-up/drop-off points inside Alexandria. These are usually either at Maw'if Gadid Station which is a bit far from the city of Alexandria so it shouldn't cost more than a 10 LE cab ride, 15 LE max. Don't take a taxi with anyone that approaches you right outside of the bus. Walk outside the station and catch a taxi there if you must. There is also a bus from Maw'if Gadid to Sidi Gabr, and from Sidi Gabr most parts of the city are accessible by minibus or tram if you are looking to save money. The bus fare will run you 50 piasters.

[edit] By boat

There are no scheduled ferry services to Alexandria, although cruise ships do stop by occasionally.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By taxi

Alexandria's yellow-black taxis are a good way to travel inside Alex, and a cheap one as well. Be careful, taxi drivers here love to take advantage of non-Alexandrians. Some drivers will try to negotiate the price before you drive anywhere, but most won't. No taxi ride between any two points in the city should cost more than 15LE.

To get into a taxi a passenger would indicate their presence to the driver and yell the name of their destination. If the driver agrees they would park at the side of the road as soon as possible.. if not they wouldn't even slow down!

[edit] By tram

Alexandria has a creaky, slow but very cheap tram system that dates back to 1860 and looks the part. There are nine lines, mostly running parallel to the coast; the yellow line to Ras el-Tin is particularly useful for traveling to Fort Qait Bey. The flat fare is a whopping 25 piasters and the trip across town will take a bare minimum of 45 minutes. Note that the middle car (out of three) in each interurban (blue) tram is reserved for women only.

Yellow lines run west and around the central and downtown area of the city, while blue trams serve the eastern residential suburbs.

[edit] By bus

There are a variety of local bus services which have improved significantly in the past few years, but they are rather confusing for those who haven't lived in Alexandria for a while.

[edit][add listing] See

• Citadel of Qait Bey. Historic site At Ras el-Tin at the western tip of Alex, take the yellow tram to get there. Admission LE 6. Built by Mameluke Sultan Abdul-Nasser Qait Bey in 1477 AD but razed and reconstructed twice since.This citadel was built in 1480 by Sultan Qaitbey on the site of the Pharos Lighthouse, to protect the city from the crusaders who used to attack the city by sea.

• Bibliotheca Alexandrina. [1]. A huge modern library and research center constructed on the site of the former Library of Alexandria (destroyed c. 400 AD), located just to the east of the Corniche. Admission LE 10 (non-Egyptians). Open daily except Tuesday 11 AM to 7:00 PM, but opens only at 3 PM on Friday and Saturday.

• Graeco-Roman Museum. A history museum with a vast collection mostly dating from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD, spanning the Ptolemaic and Roman periods.

• Roman Catacombs at Kam-el-Shuqqafa. A stunning set of catacombs with a fascinating mix of Roman and Egyptian iconography. Best viewed early in the morning or late afternoon when no one else is around. Bring a flashlight and shoes that can get muddy.

• Pompey's Pillar. An ancient monument, this 25-meter-high granite column was constructed in honor of the Emperor Diocletian in AD 297.

• Alexandria National Museum. History Museum with more than 1800 archaeological pieces exhibited chronologically: the basement is devoted to Prehistoric and Pharonic times; first floor to the Graeco-Roman period; second floor to the Coptic and Islamic era that highlights artifacts raised during recent underwater excavations.

• Corniche. The Corniche is a glorious 3km walkway (wharf/pier/boardwalk) along the harbour dotted with restaurants, markets and historic sights.

• Kom El-Dikka. Ancient ruins. Built in the 2nd century AD, this Roman amphitheater has 13 semicircular tiers made of white and gray marble.

• Montaza Palace, in Montaza

• Ras el-Tin Palace, in Ras el-Tin

• Presidential Palace, in Maamoura

• Royal Jewelry Museum

• Museum of Fine Arts

[edit][add listing] Do

• Alexandria Sporting Club (right in the heart of Alexandria) - golf club

• Tennis, croquet and horseriding clubs are found in both Alexandria and Cairo.

• Rent scuba gear and swim through the East Harbour's ancient remains

• Sunbathe at the Maamoura Beach

[edit] Learn

Alexandria has a tiny industrial section, mainly centered around the natural gas industry. A few expatriates work in this section. Other than that, there are some but not many international schools that employ expatriate teachers. Generally they pay less than the much more lucrative educational section in Cairo.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Many places seem to follow set shopping hours. Winter: Tues, Wed, Fri and Sat 9AM-7PM, Mon and Thurs 9AM-8PM. During Ramadan, hours vary, with shops often closing on Sunday. Summer: Tues, Wed, Fri-Sun 9AM-12:30PM and 4-8PM.

• International Language Bookstore 18 Abd el-Hamid el-Dib Street, Tharwat tram station. A small and pleasant little bookstore, if maddeningly difficult to find. It has a pretty decent selection of English-language books if you are into classics, and a lot of good reference books. Decent enough for children's books and beach reads.

[edit] Shopping malls

• Carrefour City Center
• Deeb Mall
• Family Mall
• Green Plaza
• Kirosez Mall
• Mina Mall
• San Stefano Grand Plaza Mall
• Wataniyya Mall
• Zahran Mall: a large complex that has a number of cinemas
• Maamoura Plaza Mall

[edit][add listing] Eat

• Alexandrian ice cream is similar to the typical soft-serve ice cream, but it is described as being a little bit 'stretchy'. It is available in numerous flavors, and according to the locals, this type of ice cream is only made in Alexandria and Greece.

• Dorra mashwey is one of many delicacies available at street vendors lining the corniche; effectively this is corn on the cob. Expect to find Hummos (garbanzo beans), Termes (a close relative) and the standard Egyptian diet also on offer: varieties of fuul and felafel (both fava bean based) as well as chicken or mutton shawermas.

• Elite, 43 Sofia Zaghoul. Once the favorite hangout of Alexandria's intelligentsia including D.H. Lawrence, Laurence Durrell, and Edith Piaf, but now bears a distinct resemblance to an American road diner complete with vinyl seating and chipped white plastic tables. The staff are still French-speaking and appropriately snotty. Try the plat du jour (23 LE).

[edit][add listing] Drink

Visitors to Alexandria often complain that it can be hard to find a decent watering hole; in dire contrast to the maze of bars and nightclubs that once filled the city. Even so, frequent travellers recommend a number of reliable establishments:

• Spitfire Bar, Sa'ad Zaghloul St. - easy to overlook despite its obvious location on the corner of a square on this busy street. The building looks slightly derelict but is clearly marked above the doors. Walk west along Sa'ad Zaghloul St. from the square. for a few blocks until the road opens up in front of you into the beginning of a square. Turn right and the bar is a few doors down on the right.

• The Cap D'Or, located right by the Spitfire. It's one of the oldest bars in Alexandria but you must pay attention to your bill as they will try and rip you off.

Hotels and most tourist restaurants throughout Alexandria and most of Egypt are home to bars and discos; and to buy your own booze drop by Drinkie's, a famous liquor store ideally located on the Corniche strip and home to every local drink and Heineken.

[edit] Cafés

• Cafe Trianon. Midan Saad Zaghlul (by the seashore), tel. 48220986. The poshest cafe in Alexandria, famed for the best om ali in Egypt — although LE 14 for what is essentially a bowl of sweet cornflour pudding is little steep. The food is also good and slightly more reasonably priced, try the moussaka for LE 13.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

• New Wellcome House, near the Metropole Hotel/Raml Station, extremely run-down, but the cheapest place in Alexandria. For the seasoned backpackers! Same building as Normandy Hotel.

• Normandy Hotel, 8 Gamal el-Din Yassen - Raml Station, tel. 034806830, email: elrume4ever5@hotmail.com. The Normandy hotel is an excellent place to stay. It is a one floor hotel located on the Corniche, with unbeatable views of the city's Eastern Harbor. It is the building behind the famous Cecil Hotel, on the fourth floor. Rooms range from 15LE to 30LE per night, depending on availability, view, and season. The rooms are well-appointed, large and clean, but spare. The bathrooms are down the hall, and also clean. Staff is very friendly, helpful, and honest. The staff speaks both English and Arabic, with limited knowledge of a few other random languages.

• Short term lettings. If you're thinking of a more lengthly stay (a month or more), why not try renting in Alex? Perhaps surprisingly, lets are easy to come by, in a range of prices (180 - 1000+ LE per week) and states of repair! Landlords/ladies tend to live in the same blocks and will be willing to haggle the rates. Needless to say, it's definitely worth visiting an apartment before placing any money down, preferably in late afternoon so you see how well the lighting works and the worst of any insect problems. (Keep in mind, though, that it's highly unlikely to find any accommodation near the coast that's completely 'roach-free'!)

[edit] Mid-range

• Holiday Hotel. 6 Orabi Sq, tel. 03801559. A no-frills two-star hotel with private bathrooms and hot water, not far from the shore and within walking distance from the center of town.

[edit] Splurge

• Hilton Alexandria Green Plaza, 14th of May Bridge Road, ☎ +20 3 4209120 (fax: +20 3 4209140), [2].  edit

• Mercure Romance Alexandria, 303 Tareek El Gueish, ☎ +20 3 5840911-12, [3].  edit

• Renaissance Alexandria Hotel, 544 El Geish Avenue, Sidi Bishr, ☎ +20 3 549 0935 (fax: +20 3 5497690), [4].  edit

• Sheraton Montazah Hotel, Corniche Road, ☎ +20 3 5480550, [5].  edit

• Sofitel Cecil Alexandria, 16 Saad Zagloul Square, ☎ +20 3 4877173 (fax: +20 3 4855655), [6].  edit

• Palestine Hotel, Monteza. Houses the old king's palace and gardens. edit

• Four Seasons Hotel San Stefano

[edit] Stay safe

Alexandria has a crime problem, so don't flash your valuables or wear a bum bag/fanny pack.

Street kids harass tourists with offers to sell bango (marijuana), and nimble fingers probing pockets. They will usually desist after a stern La! or two.

While Alexandria is one of the more Westernised cities in the Muslim country, women are still advised to cover their shoulders, midriffs, cleavage and legs above the knee. This works in both parties favour: you won't receive undue attention while remaining respectful to the religion and culture of others. It's also advisable to cover your head when entering places of worship.

[edit] Get out

• Abu Mena — a UNESCO World Heritage Site 45 km southwest of the city. An ancient Christian holy city with remains of churches, basilicas and other buildings.

• El Alamein — 106 km west of Alexandria is the site of several important battles from history and currently home to a number of war memorials, cemeteries and museums. Also built on the Mediterranean coast, El Alamein was once famously described by Churchill as having the 'best climate in the world'.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!