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Agonda

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Agonda beach
Agonda beach

Agonda is in the southernmost Canacona taluka of Indian state of Goa.

[edit] Get in

Agonda by road is a long detour from the normal route one would take to the more famous, beautiful and approachable Palolem beach. Lookout for a dilapidated signboard after diverting towards Palolem from the highway, travel a long while from the signboard and you will end up near Agonda.

Ask for Canacona - many locals know Agonda by this name.

Public transport also runs to Agonda from other beaches. Check local schedules as they are confusing and subject to change - many buses list Agonda as the destination - this refers to the inland village the beach is named after.

[edit] Get around

Agonda is a nice long pristine stretch of beach. Though the waters here might not be the most ideal place for swimming (you have better beaches with calm waters in Goa), Agonda is definitely a place for those who want to quit on a Monday morning. Most mobile connections do not work here (of those having SIM cards easily available to foreigners, only Vodafone does), so that is an added bonus for those looking forward to a quiet and relaxed holiday. Or, if you do need to party sometimes, Palolem is just 15 minutes by motorbike (10 km) away - but Agonda is generally cheaper, quieter, hassle-free and has much less "touristic" feel.

Agonda Beach basically has one long road parallel to the beach line, most rooms and bungalows for rent are located either between them or on the opposite side of the road. In the center of the beach, there is Agonda Church and even a local school/college (funny enough called Agonda University) to the right of it. Many local children go from/to there in the morning. Another road goes up from the church, crosses the river shortly after and goes through the village to the junction with a main road from Chaudi and Palolem, which are both to the right. To the left, this bigger road crosses the village until the beach road joins it near the river mouth and northern end of the beach, then continues on in the direction of Cabo da Rama.

Local buses coming to Agonda Beach stop on a junction near the church. Buses to Chaudi and Margao are available few times a day, ask locals about the schedule. There are more (still not too many) buses on the main road - but this means 10-15 minutes walk from the beach center. The price to Chaudi is Rs.7 or 8.

One or two tuk-tuks usually stands near the church during the daytime. As always in India, bargain (the normal price to Chaudi or Palolem should be around Rs.50, but many tourists end up paying Rs.100 and more).

Motorbikes and scooters are offered for rent, both by house owners and by tuk-tuk/motorbike guys near the church. A nearly-new Honda Activa or similar should cost Rs.150-200 (200 is an usual starting price, but during the peak period bargaining could be difficult), less if rented for more than a week or two.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit][add listing] Do

A typical sun and sand holiday.

Local Fishermen take you on dolphin rides. Bargain hard and a boat can take up to people, costing Rs 800.

Hike on the hillocks.

Ride through the countryside on the way to cabo de rama.

[edit][add listing] Eat

There are no renowned eateries like the big beaches but you can order for most international cuisines. Not all places where you stay will have a restaurant. Nevertheless there are enough to survive upon. Dersey's on the southern end of Agonda beach is one of the restaurants open even during the low season, serving both Indian and local food. There's another (probably year-round) restaurant on the beach road closer to the northern end, but it seems to be overpriced with rates compared or even more than those on Palolem beach. During the high season, more places are opened, but still not too many.

If you do not afraid local food (and there's nothing dangerous in it, actually) and/or want to save money, Niki bar on the road to Chaudi (just where the road to Agonda Beach branches from it to the right) serves good fish thalis for a reasonable Rs.30 in what seems to be a local eatery and an afternoon (as he closes his place around 5 PM) drinking point for a few locals. Foreigners are seen there surprisingly often for such a "local" place.

Some local shops also do have a few tables and prepare basic food (omelettes, fish & veg thalis, tea, juice, etc.) during the high season, but their price tag is usually more "touristic" (less than in restaurants, however, that is Rs.50-60 for a thali). One of them can be found just 50 m right from the church, at the end of the first building with small shops on the left side.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Agonda is a relatively quiet village, and there are much less opportunities for a funny evening out there than in Palolem. But, as it is Goa, buying drinks is not a problem, at least before 9-10 PM. Restaurants offer beer at least; also, there is a wine shop around 100-150 m to the right from Agonda church and another one in Dersey's. Just opposite the church on the street leading away from the sea, there is a tiny and cheap local bar (small beer Rs.30 / big 60, they have Old Monk, etc. also) which is open till the evening. Don't expect many people there, however; you can easily be the only customer even in the evening.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Only basic accommodation options are available for stay in Agonda. Outside the main season which is from November to February, you have to arrange for a stay in a Goan family house. Off-season prices there, however, can be really low - for example, in October (when, while it's still humid a bit, most days are sunny) you can rent a room in a nice Portuguese-style villa from around Rs.250 (peak high-season prices for the same could be around Rs.600, or less in the wooden bungalows mostly built between the main street and the beach). While locals are mostly genuinely friendly and there's much less hassle from them than, say, in Palolem, some of them won't think twice before asking three or more times the normal price, especially if they see the person isn't used to the local prices (just came to India, especially first time, paid too much for a taxi, etc.). So, if you're asked much more than expected, bargain or better try another place, do not support rip-offs.

Here are some of the beach accommodations (not the cheapest, but at least you can look some photos there) available during the season. Advance booking, however, is neither really needed (maybe except for a few peak days around New Year) nor saves any money (in fact, often you pay more), as often in India and generally in Asia.

Agonda beach huts - [1]

Mahnamanas - [2]

Madhu beach huts - [3]

[edit] Stay safe

Agonda is a fairly safe place. While you should retain your common sense, lock the door and windows when going out, and not to leave your valuables unattended, chances to have any problems in Agonda are very slim. Even sellers offering useless "souvenirs" on the beach are much less annoying and less frequent here than in Palolem or northern beaches.

[edit] Get out

Local bus station is in Chaudi. It is useful mainly for going to the south (Karwar, Ankola, Gokarna, Mangalore), east (Hampi via Ankola), or some more remote locations like Bangalore. If you plan to visit North Goa or going somewhere further north - you should go straight to Margao, as from Chaudi it will be your first major stop anyway.

Train station in Chaudi (Canacona) has only a few trains a day stopping on it. Much more trains are leaving or stopping on Margao (Madgaon) station. Check IRCTC web site for details and online ticket bookings.

The nearest (international) airport is at Dabolim, 65 km away. To get there by bus, you'll need to first to Margao, then to Vasco Da Gama or to the airport directly. There is possibly direct bus from Karwar to Vasco/airport also, which stops at Canacona - check in advance whether it's available.

Taxis are advertised in Agonda by some establishments (shops, etc.) on the beach road - mostly for longer trips such as to airport or Margao. Prepaid taxi from Margao (45 km), as of October 2009, costs Rs.600, probably 800 or 900 from the airport (65 km) - so you should negotiate at least comparable, or cheaper price.

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